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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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[Lewis:]
  
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[Lewis:]

Monday July 22d. 1805.

We set out early as usual. The river being divided into
such a number of channels by both large and small Island[s]
that I found it impossible to lay it down correctly following
one channel only in a canoe and therefore walked on shore
took the general courses of the river and from the rising
grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different channels
which I laid do[w]n in conformity thereto on my chart. there
being but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's
various meanders very satisfactorily. I passed through a large
Island which I found a beautifull level and fertile plain about
10 feet above the surface of the water and never overflown.
on this Island I met with great quantities of a smal onion[22] about
the size of a musquit ball and some even larger; they were
white crisp and well flavored I geathered about half a bushel
of them before the canoes arrived. I halted the party for
breakfast and the men also geathered considerable quantities of
those onions. it's seed had just arrived to maturity and I
gathered a good quantity of it. this appears to be a valuable
plant inasmuch as it produces a large quantity to the squar foot
and bears with ease the rigor of this climate, and withall I think
it as pleasantly flavored as any species of that root I ever
tasted. I called this beatiful and fertile island after this plant
Onion. Islands. here I passed over to the Stard. shore where the
country was higher and ascended the river to the entrance to a
large creek which discharges itself into the Missouri on the
Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty considerable creeks


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which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few miles
before it discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the
canoes to arrive I kiled an otter which sunk to the bottom on
being shot, a circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water
was about 8 feet deep yet so clear that I could see it at the
bottom; I swam in and obtained it by diving. I halted the
party here for dinner; the canoes had taken different channels
through these islands and it was sometime before they all came
up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my custom
about 4. P. M. and after dinner set out without it and had
proceeded near a mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway
back for it, he found it and brought it on. the murcury
stood at 80 a.o this is the warmest day except one which we
have experienced this summer. The Indian woman recognizes
the country and assures us that this is the river on which her
relations live, and that the three forks are at no great distance.
this peice of information has cheered the sperits of the party
who now begin to console themselves with the anticipation of
shortly seeing the head of the missouri yet unknown to the
civilized world. the large creek which we passed on Stard.
15 yds. we call White Earth Creek[23] from the circumstance of the
natives procuring a white paint on this crek. Saw many gees,
crains, and small birds common to the plains, also a few phesants
and a species of small curlooe or plover of a brown colour
which I first met with near the entrance of Smith's river but
they are so shy and watchfull there is no possibility of geting a
shoot at them it is a different kind from any heretofore
discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged plover or
jack Curlooe.[24] both species of the willow that of the broad
leaf and narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very
scarce. the rose bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed
thorn, southernwood, sage Box alder narrow leafed cottonwood,
red w[o]od, a species of sumac are all found in abundance as
well as the red and black goosberries, service berries, choke

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cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of black,
yellow, red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the
bear appear to feed much on the currants. late this evening
we arrived at Capt. C[l]arks camp on the Stard. side of the river;
we took them on board with the meat they had collected and proceeded
a short distance and encamped on an Island Capt. Clark's
party had killed a deer and an Elk today and ourselves one
deer and an Antelope only. altho' Capt C. was much fatiegued
his feet yet blistered and soar he insisted (determined) on pursuing
his rout in the morning nor weould he consent willingly to
my releiving him at that time by taking a tour of the same
kind. finding him anxious I readily consented to remain with
the canoes, he ordered Frazier and Jo. & Reubin Fi[e]lds to
hold themselves in readiness to accompany him in the morning.
Sharbono was anxious to accompany him and was accordingly
permitted. the musquetoes and knats more than usually
troublesome to us this evening.

Cou[r]ses and distances of July 22.ed 1805.

             
N. 75°. E.  2 1/4  to a Lard. bend 1 M. above a large Island 
S. 34°. E.  3.  to the center of a Stard. bend at the upper point of
Onion Island.
 
S. 80°. E.  1 1/2  to a Stard. bend passing several Islands. 
N. 45°. E.  1.  to a Lard. bend passing several Islands 
S. 25°. E.  6.  passing four long circular bends and severral large
islands to a point of the bluff on Stard. side; a large
creek well timbered falls in on Stard. side 3/4 of a mile
below the extremity of this course. whiteearth C.
 
S. 12°. E.  6.  to a bluff point on the Stard. side; this course and distance
forms the cord line to a general circular bend of
the river, which is formed of 4 other bends, and from
the center of which, a line drawn N. 70°. E. 3 miles
will intersect the center of the general bend of the
 
Miles  19 3/4  river 4 miles short of the extremity of this course by
water we encamped on an Isld

 
[22]

Allium cernuum.—Ed.

[23]

Now Beaver Creek; at the forks is a town called Placer, on the road from
Gallatin City to Helena.—Ed.

[24]

Either Bartram's sandpiper (Bartramia longicauda), or the mountain plover
(Podasocys monianus).—Ed.