University of Virginia Library

FAUQUIER WHITE SULPHUR SPRING.

As the epicure leaves the most delicate morsel
for the last, so we have reserved for the
last place in our book the description of this
most charming establishment; and having
thus, contrary to our original design, entered
upon the Springs of Eastern Virginia, we
will probably, at some future day, embrace all
the others, and perhaps the Bedford Springs of
Pennsylvania. On the 19th of July, 1844,
after an early breakfast, a horseman, accompanied
by a young lady, also mounted on her palfrey,
left the comfortable Hotel at Fredericksburg,
and crossing the Bridge to Falmouth,
took the road leading to the Springs. The
road for several miles from Falmouth was
rough and the scenery uninteresting. At the
end of twelve miles, they reached a very plain
frame house, whitewashed, and, at some little
distance, looking as if the occupant had, benevolently,
bored holes all over it, for those
gay little annual visiters, the martens. A

nearer view, however, exhibited the reality,
which was nothing more than circular black
spots made with lampblack, on the whitewashed
boards. The notion was queer, and the
travellers deeming it probable that the Spotted
Tavern might not only afford them shelter
from a burning sun, but also some amusement,
determined to dismount, and explore the premises.
Reining up their steeds, two lusty negresses,
who had been scouring the porch with
all their might, came forward and took charge
of the horses, and a blast from a horn soon
brought up the ostler. Entering the house,
the travellers were agreeably surprised by the
neat appearance of every thing around them.
The floor, the furniture, the snow-white tablecloth,
the clean tea-things, the nice biscuits
and cool, fresh butter, all, all were most inviting.
The travellers did ample justice to a second
breakfast. How refreshing it is to one,
who has been living in the city, to get into a
nice country house. You are so much at your
ease, your spirits are so calmed and tranquillized.
Where, too, but in the country, can
you get a draught of clear, cool water from the
limpid spring, or deep well? Certainly, not
in Richmond, where you have to pay ten dollars
a year for the privilege of swallowing
mud. A well-bred horse, in the country,
would refuse to drink such water as a Christian
people are taxed for in the metropolis of Virginia.

After a day spent most agreeably, partly
under a beautiful arbour, the travellers mounted
for White Ridge, distant about eight miles.
The view of the mountains in approaching
this place was pleasing, and they had formed
altogether favourable anticipations. The host
and hostess were kind, but not very well prepared
to entertain travellers. The little upstairs
rooms in which they were sent to lodge
were so suffocating, that after throwing open
his window, the elder traveller lay across his
bed, with his head on the window-sill, to try
and inhale a little fresh air; while his more
delicate companion was suffering all the tortures
which such an atmosphere could inflict.
How they rejoiced at "the morning's first
beam." How hurriedly they huddled on their
clothes, and descended to the porch, and looked
out upon the distant hills, and inhaled the
balmy air. Here, too, they exclaimed, is the

lovely country; but it is distance alone that
lends it enchantment; so, let us mount and
breakfast in Germantown. The travellers
did mount, and entertained themselves by
speculating on the subject of Germantown:
how many stores and blacksmiths' shops and
taverns were in this imaginary village. They
were told that after riding ten miles they must
turn off a little from the main road, and having
followed directions, they arrived in due
time at Germantown. Suddenly burst upon
the view the Germantown Inn, alone in its
glory. It was a frame house, Low Dutch in
appearance, having a neglected air, and the best-looking
furniture it possessed seemed to consist
of white-headed children. The travellers ordered
breakfast, paid for it, ate nothing, and
again to horse and away ten miles, under a
scorching sun, for the White Sulphur; where
they arrived about noon, hungry, thirsty, and
exhausted. It is only adventures and contrasts,
such as those travellers encountered, that
can give zest to country excursions. A cit.
leaves Boston and is whirled along with his
head swimming all the time, and though he
passes magnificent scenery and lovely villages,
so far as enjoyment is concerned, he had as
well be blind. In a few hours, he reaches Albany,
is treading upon India matting, sipping
sherbet, smoking his cigar, and looking dignity.
Again, crack goes the driver's whip,
and he is rolled along in a fine coach, and
struts his little hour upon the stage at Saratoga.
Who meets him here? The same man
to whom, two days ago, he sold $10,000 worth
of rail-road stock, in Boston. Ha! Smart,
are you here? spending your profits on that
speculation, I suppose? $500—that is all I
made—Gulley, nothing to talk about. What
news? eh! the Great Western arrived—
cotton flat—bread-stuffs looking up—rail-roads
in England all the rage—and here? Oh!
here, the centre of attraction is Miss Flora
Roseneath—cool $250,000, and 150 darkies;
and Miss Julia Winterblossom, sole heiress to
a great shoe-manufacturer at Lynn—only
half a million! 'Pon my soul, Smart, good
stock this! Suppose we try a hand—have
you any qualms about the woollies? You
know I am somewhat of an abolitionist; so,
here is for Lynn and Julia. She has, indeed, a
few carbuncles on her cheeks, but the essence
of gold-dust is a fine cosmetic, and will presently
heal them. Well, Gulley, agreed:
Miss Flora and the darkies, against Julia and
the brogans. A pair of pumps to the winner,
eh! a bargain, a bargain: and thus the speculators
in stocks become speculators in matrimony.
Such is Saratoga, and such a great
portion of the matériel of which its society is
made up. That matériel wants, and ever
will want, the enchanting simplicity of manner,
dignity of deportment, and air of true
gentility, founded on benevolence and forgetfulness
of self, which distinguish nature's gentleman
from the mere cockney and pretender.
We are fully aware that the élite of American
society annually assemble, in large numbers,
at Saratoga. From all points of the compass
they flock to that fashionable resort. But we
assert that there is more of the pure ore, and
less alloy to be met with, in the society annually
visiting our watering-places, than is to be
met with north of the Susquehanna. The
day may come when, through the agency of
rail-roads, it will be otherwise; but, sufficient
for the day is the evil thereof; meantime, let
us enjoy the blessings within our reach, and
not forget the claims of the beautiful Fauquier
Springs.

It appears from a report now before us, that
the "medicinal qualities of the Mineral Spring
were known and highly appreciated in the
neighbourhood, long before it became an object
of general resort. The resort of the
neighbourhood was constant and persevering,
and caused such interruption to the farm
operations of the former proprieters as induced
one of them to fill up the Spring; but
so clearly had its value been established, as induced
Mr. Lee to purchase it with a view to
open it to the public. His experiment was at
first on a small scale, but the throng of visiters
soon demonstrated the expediency of more extended
operations, and a greater outlay of capital.
Mr. Green united with Mr. Lee in the
enterprise. They have planned and executed
improvements, better calculated to promote the
comfort and please the taste of visiters, than
are to be found at any other watering-place in
the State. The buildings already constructed
might accommodate 800 guests, and are so
contrived as to admit of indefinite enlargement
without deranging the symmetry of the plan."

The improvements are—a Pavilion, 188
feet long and four stories high, with a grand
Portico on its western aspect, overlooking the
lawn and a long line of diversified country.
We have seen nothing of the kind to compare
with this magnificent promenade; we mean,
of course, in the country. On the eastern aspect,
it was the design of the proprietors to
erect a similar Portico, and to connect that
front by means of an arch with another Pavilion
east of it, 100 feet long and four stories
high; but when the timbers were all ready,
the workshop was destroyed by fire, and this
part of the design remaining unexecuted,
gives an unfinished appearance to this front
of the great Pavilion. We trust that, one
day or other, the original plan will be carried
out, and sure we are, that if its projector,
Thomas Green, Esq., becomes again largely
interested in the property, his fine taste as
well as good judgment will insure its completion.
Besides the two great pavilions just
described, there are two large brick buildings,
three stories high—two others, 56 feet long
each, and two stories high—and twelve other
brick buildings, 56 feet long each—(all covered

with slate except one)—the Bath-house and
the Spring House. All these improvements
and 1184 acres of land, together with a
tract of 1750 acres, lying south of the Rappahannock
River, were conveyed in August,
1837, to a company in 2500 shares at $68
per share, making for the whole $170,000,
by the then proprietors, Thomas Green
and Hancock Lee. By this company it
has since been held. They have made
no important improvements since that period,
and their policy seems to have been to
keep free of debt and wait for better times.
Such times are now fast approaching, if
no wicked experiments again dash the
cup from the lips, and there is little doubt
that the investment in this property will
yield a fair return. The arrangements have
been much and justly praised. If one who
can lay but little claim to taste in landscape
may venture an opinion, he would suggest
that the grounds are too much broken up
by walks and shrubbery. The parterre
style of laying out grounds is now properly
abandoned. A beautifully green and shaven
sward, with a great centre-walk, as now, and
other walks such as convenience might dictate,
with, here and there, a rose-bush or shrub,
would be infinitely more pleasing to a cultivated
taste, than all the superfluous ornaments,
that now, like flounces and French millinery,
hide its symmetry and elegance. If the company
would act upon this hint, and, placing a
simple but beautiful Pagoda on the summit
of the lovely western hill, immediately in
front of the centre of the Pavilion, would
transfer to that place some of the shrubbery
now in the way, and improve the grounds in
that direction by well-graded walks, furnished
with rustic lounges and resting-places for pedestrians,
and make a handsome drive for
those who are ambitious to display a fine
equipage, all which could be done at a moderate
expense, we know of no place that may
vie with the Fauquier Springs.

The interior arrangements of the Pavilions
and Cabins are well calculated to afford comfort.
The ball-room, drawing-room, dining-room,
and parlours, are all spacious and suitably
furnished. We must, nevertheless, say,
that at the time of our visit, when the company

did not exceed fifty, we were greatly disappointed
in the appearance of the table.
The table-cloth was coarse, and not of snowy
whiteness; the china chipped and broken;
the knives and forks neither sharp nor well
cleaned, and there were other signs of a "falling
off," which we could have wished had not
been so palpable. We deem this miserable
economy, and hope it has been corrected.

Mr. Ward, the manager of the establishment,
is an amiable and kind landlord, and
we are sure he is disposed to do all in his power
to make his guests comfortable; but he cannot
do it if stinted in the means. A certain
degree of style in living is expected at a place,
the exterior of which is so imposing, and it is
true policy to maintain appearances all through
the establishment. The encouragement held
out to the company by the success of last season
will, no doubt, induce them to supply
every thing essential to comfort.

No analysis of this water, of an authentic
character, has been made public. It neither
possesses saline matter nor sulphuretted hydrogen
in as large quantities as the Western
White Sulphur, nor is it comparable to it as a

medicinal agent; but there are cases to which
the latter is unsuited that would be benefited
here; certainly, it would be a more rational
plan to use this or some other milder water
than to drink stale water in the county of
Greenbrier or Boston. We are well satisfied
that this water is valuable in Dyspepsia. It
is light, and feels comforting to the stomach in
most instances. With the aid of a little blue
mass, it will also be found useful in exciting to
action a torpid condition of the liver, and we
can readily suppose that it may prove useful in
dropsy and several diseases for which resort is
had to Sulphur waters. There is here a
most comfortable Bathing establishment, which
greatly enhances the advantages it presents in
other matters, and those advantages must insure
to this place a steadily increasing custom,
and cause it to rank in point of numbers and
fashion among the first of the Virginia Springs.