 | History of southwest Virginia, 1746-1786, Washington County, 1777-1870 |  |
APPENDIX.
JOURNAL OF DOCTOR THOMAS WALKER—
1749-'50.
Having on the 12th of December last been employed for a certain consideration
to go to the westward in order to discover a proper place for a
settlement, I left my home on the 6th day of March, at 10 o'clock,
1749-'50, in company with Ambrose Powell, William Tomlinson, Colby
Chew, Henry Lawless & John Hughes. Each man had a horse and we
had two to carry the baggage. I lodged this night at Col. Joshua Fry's,
in the Albemarle, which county includes the Chief of the head Branches of
James River on the east side of the Blue Ridge.
March 7th. We set off about 8, but the day proving wet, we only went
to Thomas Joplin's on Rockfish. This is a pretty River, which might at a
small expense be made fit for transporting Tobacco; but it has lately
been stopped by a Mill Dam near the Mouth to the Prejudice of the upper
inhabitants who would at their own expense clear and make it navigable,
were they permitted.
March 8th. We left Joplin's early. It began to rain about Noon. I left
my people at Thomas Jones's and went to the Reverend Mr. Robert Rose's
on Tye River. This is about the size of Rockfish, as yet open, but how
long the Avarice of Millers will permit it to be so, I know not. At present
the Inhabitants enjoy plenty of Fine fish, as Shad in their Season,
Carp, Rocks, Fat-Backs which I suppose to be Tench, Perch, Mullets, etc.
March 9th. As the weather continues unlikely, I moved only to Baylor
Walker's quarters.
March 10th. The weather is still cloudy, and leaving my people at the
Quarter, I rode to Mr. John Harvies', where I dined and returned to the
quarter in the evening.
11th. The Sabbath.
March 12th. We crossed the Fluvanna and lodged at Thomas Hunt's.
13th. We went early to William Calloway's and supplied ourselves with
Rum, Thread, and other necessaries & from thence took the main wagon
Road leading to Wood's or the New River. It is not well cleared or beaten
yet, but will be a very good one with proper management. This night
we lodged in Adam Beard's low grounds. Beard is an ignorant, impudent,
brutish fellow, and would have taken us up, had it not been for a reason
easily to be suggested.
We went from Beard's to Nicholas Welche's, where we bought corn for
our horses, and had some Victual dressed for Breakfast, afterwards we
crossed the Blue Ridge. The ascent and descent is so easy that a Stranger
and continued until night. We lodged at William Armstrong's. Corn
is very scarce in these parts.
March 15th. We went to the Great Lick[1]
on a Branch of the Staunton
& bought corn of Michael Campbell for our Horses. This Lick has been
one of the best places for Game in these parts and would have been of
much greater advantage to the Inhabitants than it has been if the Hunters
had not killed the Buffaloes for diversion, and the Elks and Deer for their
skins.
This afternoon we got to the Staunton where the Houses of the Inhabitants
had been carried off with their grain and Fences by the Fresh last
summer, and Lodged at James Robinson's, the only place I could hear of
where they had Corn to spare, notwithstanding the land is such that an
industrious man might make 100 barrels a share in a seasonable year.
March 16th. We kept up the Staunton to William Englishe's. He lives
on a small branch, and was not much hurt by the Fresh. He has a Mill,
which is the furthest back except one lately built by the Sect of people,
who call themselves of the Brotherhood of the Euphrates, (17th) and are
commonly called the Duncards, who are the upper inhabitants of the New
River, which is about 400 yards wide at this place. They live on the west
side and we were obliged to swim our Horses over. The Duncards are an
old set of people who make it a matter of religion not to shave their
Beards, ly on beds, or eat Flesh, though at present, in the last they transgress,
being constrained to it, as they say, by want of a sufficiency of
Grain and Roots, they having not long been seated here. I doubt the
plenty and deliciousness of the Venison & Turkeys has contributed not
a little to this. The unmarried have no private property, but live on a
Common Stock. They don't baptize either Young or Old, they keep their
Sabbath on Saturday, & hold that all men shall be happy hereafter, but
must first pass through punishment according to their Sins. They are
very hospitable.
March 18. The Sabbath.
19th. We could not find our Horses and spent the day in looking for
them. In the evening we found their track.
20th. We went very early to the track of our Horses & after following
them six or seven miles, we found them all together. We returned to the
Duncards about ten o'clock, and having purchased half a bushel of meal
and as much small Hominy we set off and Lodged on a small Run between
Peak Creek and Reedy Creek.
March 21st. We got to Reedy Creek and Camped near James McCall's.[2]
I went to his House and Lodged and bought what Bacon I wanted.
22nd. I returned to my People early. We got to a large Spring about
five miles below Davis's Bottom on Holston's River and Camped.
23rd. We kept down Holston's River about four miles and Camped; and
then Mr. Powell and I went to look for Samuel Stalnaker, who I had been
to our own in the Evening.
24th. We went to Stalnaker's, helped him to raise his house and Camped
about a quarter of a mile below him. In April 1748, I met the above
mentioned Stalnaker between the Reedy Creek Settlement and Holston
River, on his way to the Cherokee Indians, and expected him to pilot me
as far as he knew but his affairs would not permit him to go with me.
March 25th. The Sabbath. Grass is plenty in the low grounds.
26th. We left the Inhabitants, and kept nigh West to a large Spring on
a Branch of the North fork of Holston. Thunder, Lightening, and Rain
before Day.
27th. It began to Snow on the morning and continued till Noon. The
Land is very hilly from West to North. Some Snow lies on the tops of
the mountains N. W. from us.
28th. We traveled to the lower end of Giant's Ditch on Reedy Creek.
29th. Our Dogs were very uneasie most of the Night.
30th. We kept down Reedy Creek, and discover'd the tracks of about
20 Indians, that had gone up the Creek between the time we Camped last
Night, and set off this Morning. We suppose they made our Dogs so restless
last Night. We Camped on Reedy Creek.
March 30th. We caught two young Buffaloes one of which we killed,
and having cut and marked the other we turn'd him out.
31st. We kept down Reedy Creek to Holston where we measured an
Elm 25 feet round 3 feet from the Ground. We saw young Sheldrakes, we
went down the River to the North Fork and up the North Fork about a
quarter of a mile to a Ford and then crossed it. In the Fork between Holston's
and the North River, are five Indian Houses built with loggs and
covered with Bark, and there were abundance of Bones, some whole Pots
and Pans, some broken and many pieces of mats and Cloth. On the West
Side of the North River, is four Indian Houses such as before mentioned,
we went four miles Below the North River and Camped on the Bank of
Holston's, opposite to a large Indian Fort.
April ye 1st. The Sabbath. We saw Perch, Mullets, and Carp in plenty,
and caught one of the large Sort of Cat Fish. I marked my Name, the
day of the Month, and date of the year on several Beech Trees.
2nd. We left Holston & travelled through small Hills till about Noon,
when one of our Horses being choaked by eating Reeds too greedily, we
stopped, having travelled seven miles.
3d. Our horse being recover'd, we travelled to the Rocky Ridge. I went
up to the top to look for a Pass, but found it so Rocky that I concluded
not to attempt it there. This Ridge may be known by Sight at a distance.
To the Eastward are many small Mountains, and a Buffalo Road between
them and the Ridge. The growth is Pine on the Top and the Rocks look
white at a distance. We went Seven miles this day.
4th. We kept under the Rocky Ridge crossing several small Branches
to the Head of Holly Creek. We saw many small Licks and plenty of
Deer.
April 5th. We went down Holly Creek. There is much Holly in the
Low Grounds & some Laurel and Ivy. About 3 in the afternoon, the Ridge
appeared less stony and we passed it and Camped on a small Branch
about a mile from the top. My riding Horse choaked himself this Evening
and I drenched him with water to wash down the Reeds, and it answered
the End.
6th. It proving wet we did not move.
7th. We rode 8 miles over broken Land. It snowed most of the day.
In the Evening our dogs caught a large He Bear, which before we could
come up to shoot him had wounded a dog of mine, so that he could not
Travel, and we carried him on Horseback, till he recovered.
8th. The Sabbath. Still snow.
9th. We travelled to a river, which I suppose to be that which the
hunters Call Clinche's River, from one Clinch a Hunter, who first found it.
We marked several Beeches on the East side. We could not find a ford
Shallow eneugh to carry our Baggage over on our horses. Ambrose Powell
Forded over on one horse, and we drove the others after him. We then
made a Raft and carried over one Load of Baggage, but when the Raft
was brought back it was so heavy that it would not carry anything more
dry.
April 10th. We waded and carried the remainder of our Baggage on our
shoulders at two turns over the River, which is about one hundred and
thirty yards wide. We went on about five miles and Camped on a small
Branch.
April 11th. Having travelled 5 miles to and over a High Mountain, we
came to Turkey Creek, which we kept down 4 miles. It lies between two
Ridges of Mountains, that to the Eastward being the highest.
12th. We kept down the Creek 2 miles further, where it meets with a
large Branch coming from the South West, and thence runs through the
East Ridge making a very good Pass; and a large Buffalo Road goes
from that Fork to the Creek over the West Ridge, which we took and
found the ascent and descent tolerably easie. From this Mountain we
rode four miles to Beargrass River. Small Cedar Trees are very plenty
on the flat ground nigh the River, and some Barberry trees on the East
side of the River. On the Banks is some Beargrass. We kept up the
River two miles. I found some Small pieces of Coal and a great plenty of
very good yellow Flint. The water is the most transparent I ever saw.
It is about 70 yds. wide.
April 13th. We went four miles to a large Creek, which we called Cedar
Creek, being a Branch of Bear Grass, and from thence Six miles to Cave
Gap, the land being level. On the North side of the Gap is a large Spring,
which falls very fast, and just above the Spring is a small Entrance to a
large Cave, which the Spring runs through, and there is a constant
Stream of Cool air issuing out. The Spring is sufficient to turn a Mill.
Just at the foot of the Hill is a Laurel Thicket, and the Spring Water
runs through it. On the South side is a plain Indian Road. On the top
of the Ridge are Laurel Trees marked with Crosses, others blazed and
to some Laurel in the head of a Branch. A Beech stands on the left hand
on which I cut my name. This Gap may be seen at a considerable distance,
and there is no other that I know of, except one about two miles
to the North of it, which does not appear to be so low as the other. The
Mountain on the North Side of the Gap is very Steep and Rocky, but on
the South Side it is not so. We called it Steep Ridge. At the foot of the
hill on the North West Side we came to a Branch, that made a great deal
of flat Land. We kept down it 2 miles, Several other Branches coming in
to make it a large Creek, and we called it Flat Creek. We camped on the
Bank where we found very good Coal. I did not See any Lime Stone beyond
this Ridge. We rode 13 miles this day.
April 14th. We kept down the Creek 5 miles Chiefly along the Indian
Road.
15th. Easter Sunday. Being in bad grounds for our Horses we moved
7 miles along the Indian Road, to Clover Creek. Clover and Hop Vines
are plenty here.
April 16th. Rai(n). I made a pair of Indian Shoes, those I brought out
being bad.
17th. Still rain. I went down the Creek a hunting and found that it
went into a River about a mile below our Camp. This, which is Flat
Creek and some others joined, I called Cumberland River.
18th. Still Cloudy. We kept down the Creek to the River along the Indian
Road to where it crosses. Indians lived about this Ford Some years
ago. We kept on down the South Side. After riding 5 miles from our
Camp, we left the River, it being very crooked. In riding 3 miles we came
on it again. It is about 60 or 70 yards wide. We rode 8 (?) miles this
day.
19th. We left the River but in four miles we came on it again at the
Mouth of Licking Creek, which we went up and down another. In the
Fork of Licking Creek is a Lick much used by Buffaloes and many large
Roads lead to it. This afternoon Ambrose Powell was bit by a Bear in
his Knee. We rode 7 miles this day.
20th. We kept down the Creek 2 miles to the River again. It appears
not any wider here than at the mouth of Clover Creek, but much deeper.
I thought it proper to cross the River and began a bark Canoe.
April 21st. We finished the Canoe and tryed her. About noon it began
to thunder, lighten, hail and rain prodigiously and continued about 2 hours.
22nd. The Sabbath. One of the horses was found unable to walk this
morning. I then propos'd that with 2 of the Company I would proceed,
and the other three should Continue here till our return, which was agreed
to and Lots were drawn to determine who should go, they all being desirous
of it. Ambrose Powell and Colby Chew were the fortunate Persons.
23rd. Having carried our Baggage over in the bark Canoe and Swum our
horses, we all crossed the River. Then Ambrose Powell, Colby Chew and
I departed. Leaving the others to provide and salt some Bear, build an
house, and plant some Peach Stones and Corn. We travelled about 12
hereabouts and here is a great deal of flat Land. We got through the
Coal to-day.
April 24th. We kept on Westerly 18 miles, got Clear of the mountains
and found the Land poor and the woods very Thick beyond them, and
Laurel & Ivy in and near the Branches. Our Horses suffered very much
here for want of food. This day we Came on the fresh Track of 7 or 8
Indians, but could not overtake them.
25th. We kept on West 5 miles, the Land continuing much the Same, the
Laurel rather growing worse, and the food scarcer. I got up a tree on a
Ridge and saw the Growth of the Land much the same as Far as my Sight
could reach. I then concluded to return to the rest of my Company. I
kept on my track 1 mile then turn'd Southerly & went to Cumberland
River at the mouth of a water Course, that I named Rocky Creek.
26th. The River is 150 yards wide and appears to be navigable from this
place almost to the mouth of Clover Creek. Rocky Creek runs within 40
yards of the River Bank then turns off, and runs up the River, surrounding
about 25 acres of Land before it falls into the River. The Banks of
the River and Creek are a sufficient Fence almost all the way. On the
Lower Side of the mouth of the Creek is an Ash marked T. W., a Red
Oak A. P., a white Hickory C. C., besides several Trees blazed Several
ways with 3 Chops over each blaze. We went up the North Side of the
River 8 miles, and Camped on a Small Branch. A Bear Broke one of my
Dogs forelegs.
April 27th. We crossed Indian Creek and went down Meadow Creek to
the River. There Comes in another from the Southward as big as this
we are on. Below the mouth of this Creek and above the mouth are the
remains of Several Indian Cabins and amongst them a round Hill made
by Art about 20 feet high and 60 over the Top. We went up the River, and
Camped on the Bank.
28th. We kept up the River to our Company whom we found all well,
but the lame Horse was as bad as we left him, and another had been bit
in the Nose by a Snake. I rub'd the wounds with Bear's oil, and gave him
a drench of the same and another of the decoction of Rattle Snake root
some time after. The People I left had built a House 12 by 8, cleared and
broke up some ground & planted Corn and Peach Stones. They also
had killed several Bears and cured the meat. This day Colby Chew and
his Horse fell down the Bank. I bled and gave him Volatile drops, & he
soon recovered.
April 29th. The Sabbath. The bitten Horse is better. 3 quarters of
a mile below the House is a Pond in the Low Ground of the River, a
Quarter of a mile in Length and 200 yds. wide much frequented by Fowl.
30th. I blazed a way from our House to the River. On the other side
of the River is a large Elm cut down and barked about 20 feet and another
standing just by it with the bark cut around at the root and about
15 feet above. About 200 yards below this is a white Hickory Barked
about 15 feet. The depth of water here, when the lowest that I have seen
high, & the Current very slow. The bitten Horse being much mended,
we set off and left the lame one. He is white, branded on the near Buttock
with a swivil Stirrup Iron, and is old. We left the River and having
Crossed Several Hills and Branches, Camped in a Valley North from the
House.
May 1st. Another Horse being bit, I applyed Bear's Oil as before mentioned.
We got to Powell's River in the afternoon and went down it
along an Indian Road, much frequented, to the mouth of a Creek on the
West side of the River, where we camped. The Indian Road goes up the
Creek, and I think it is that Which goes through Cave Gap.
2nd. We kept down the River. At the mouth of a Creek that comes
in on the East side is a Lick, and I believe there was a hundred Buffaloes
at it. About 2 o'clock we had a Shower of rain. We camped on the River,
which is very crooked.
May 3rd. We crossed a narrow Neck of Land, came on the River again
and kept down it to an Indian Camp, that had been built this Spring, and
in it we took up our Quarters. It began to rain about Noon and continued
until Night.
4th. We crossed a narrow Neck of Land and came on the River again,
which we kept down till it turn'd to the Westward, we then left it, and
went up a Creek, which we Called Colby's Creek. The River is about 50
yards over where we left it.
5th. We got to Tomlison's River, which is about the size of Powell's
River, and I cut my name on a Beech, that stands on the North Side of
the River. Here is plenty of Coal in the South Bank opposite to our
Camp.
6th. The Sabbath. I saw Goslings, which shows that Wild Geese stay
here all the year. Ambrose Powell had the misfortune to sprain his well
knee.
7th. We went down Tomlison's River the Land being very broken and
our way embarrassed by trees, that had been blown down about 2 years
ago.
May 8th. We went up a Creek on the North Side of the River.
9th. We got to Lawlesse's River which is much like the others. The
Mountains here are very Steep and on Some of them there is Laurel and
Ivy. The tops of the Mountains are very Rocky and some part of the
Rocks seem to be composed of Shells, Nuts and many other Substances
petrified and cemented together with a kind of Flint. We left the River
and after travelling some Miles we got among Trees that had been blown
down about 2 years, and were obliged to go down a Creek to the River
again, the Small Branches and Mountains being impassable.
10th. We Staid on the River, and dressed an Elk skin to make Indian
Shoes—most of ours being quite worn out.
11th. We left the River, found the Mountains very bad, and got to a
Rock by the side of a Creek sufficient to shelter 200 men from Rain.
order for shoes and make them.
12th. Under the Rock is a Soft Kind of Stone almost like Alum in
taste; below it a Layer of Coal about 12 inches thick and white Clay under
that. I called the Run Alum Creek. I have observed several mornings
past, that the Trees begin to drip just before day & continue dripping
till about Sun rise, as if it rain'd slowly. We had some rain this day.
13th. The Sabbath.
14th. When our Elk Skin was prepared we had lost every Awl that we
had brought out, and I made one with the Shank of an old Fishing hook,
the other People made two of Horse Shoe Nailes, and with these we made
our Shoes or Moccosons. We wrote several of our Names with Coal under
the Rock, & I wrote our names, the time of our comeing and leaving this
place on paper and stuck it in to the Rock with Mortar, and then set off.
We Crossed Hughes's River and Lay on a large Branch of it. There is no
dew this morning but a shower of Rain about 6 oclock. The River is
about 50 yards wide.
May 15th. Laurel and Ivy increase upon us as we go up the Branch.
About noon it began to rain & we took up our Quarters in a Valley between
very Steep Hills.
16th. We crossed Several Ridges and Branches. About two in the afternoon,
I was taken with a Violent Pain in my Hip.
17th. Laurel and Ivy are very plentiful and the Hills still very steep.
The Woods have been burnt some years past, and are now very thick, the
Timber being almost all kill'd. We Camped on a Branch of Naked Creek.
The pain in my Hip is something asswaged.
18th. We went up Naked Creek to the head and had a plain Buffalo
Road most of the way. From thence we proceeded down Wolf Creek and
on it we Camped.
19th. We kept down ye Creek to Hunting Creek, which we crossed and
left. It rained most of the afternoon.
May 20th. The Sabbath. It began to Rain about Noon and continued
till next day.
21st. Left off raining about 8. We crossed several Ridges and Small
Branches & Camped on a Branch of Hunting Creek. In the Evening it
rained very hard.
22nd. We went down the Branch to Hunting Creek & kept it to Milley's
River.
23rd. We attempted to go down the River but could not. We then
Crossed Hunting Creek and attempted to go up the River but could not.
It being very deep we began a Bark Canoe. The River is about 90 or 100
yards wide. I blazed several Trees in the Fork and marked T. W. on a
Sycamore Tree 40 feet around. It has a large Hole on the N: W: side
about 20 feet from the Ground and is divided into 3 Branches just by the
hole, and it stands about 80 yards above the mouth of Hunting Creek.
May 24th. We finished the Canoe and crossed the River about noon, and
I marked a Sycamore 30 feet round and several Beeches on the North side
hereabouts.
25th. It began to rain before day and continued till about noon. We
travelled about 4 miles on a Ridge and Camped on a small Branch.
26th. We kept down the Branch almost to the River, and up a Creek, and
then along a Ridge till our Dogs roused a large Buck Elk, Which we followed
down to a Creek. He killed Ambrose Powell's Dog in the Chase, and
we named the Run Tumbler's Creek, the Dog being of that Name.
27th. The Sabbath.
28th. Cloudy. We could not get our Horses till almost Night, when we
went down the Branch. We lay on to the main Creek, and turn'd up it.
May 29th. We proceeded up the Creek 7 miles, and then took a North
Branch & went up it five miles and then encamped on it.
30th. We went to the head of the Branch we lay on 12 miles. A shower
of Rain fell this day. The Woods are burnt fresh about here and are the
only fresh burnt Woods we have seen these Six Weeks.
31st. We crossed 2 Mountains and Camped just by a Wolf's Den. They
were very impudent and after they had been twice shot at, they kept
howling about the Camp. It rained till Noon this day.
June ye 1st. We found the Wolf's Den and caught 4 of the young ones.
It rained this morning. We went up a Creek, crossed a mountain and
went through a Gap, and then, camped on the head of A Branch.
2nd. We went down the Branch to a River 70 yards wide, which I called
Frederick's River. We kept up it a half a mile to a Ford, where we crossed
and proceeded upon the North Side 3 miles. It rained most of the afternoon.
Elks are very plenty on this River.
June 3rd. Whit-Sunday. It rained most of the day.
4th. I blazed several trees four ways on the outside of the low Grounds
by a Buffalo Road, and marked my Name on several Beech Trees. Also
I marked some by the River side just below a "mossing" place with an
Island in it. We left the River about 10 o'clock & got to Falling Creek,
and went up it till 5 in the afternoon, when a very black Cloud appearing,
we turn'd out our Horses, got tent Poles up, and were just stretching
a Tent, when it began to rain and hail, and was succeeded by a violent
Wind which Blew down our Tent & a great many Trees about it, several
large ones within 30 yds. of the Tent. We all left the place in confusion
and ran different ways for shelter. After the Storm was over, we met at
the Tent, and found all safe.
5th. There was a violent Shower of Rain before day. This morning
we went up the Creek about 3 miles, and then were obliged to leave it,
the Timber being so blown down that we could not get through. After we
left the Creek we kept on a Ridge 4 miles, then turned down to the head
of a Branch, and it began to rain and continued raining very hard till
Night.
June 6th. We went down the Branch till it became a large Creek. It
runs very Swift, falling more than any of the Branches we have been on
of late. I called it Rapid Creek. After we had gone 8 miles we could not
this Creek.
7th. The Creek being fordable, we Crossed it & kept down 12 miles to a
River about 100 yards over, which we called Louisa River. The Creek is
about 30 yards wide, & part of ye River breaks into ye Creek—making
an Island on which we Camped.
8th. The River is so deep we cannot ford it and as it is falling we concluded
to stay and hunt. In the afternoon, Mr. Powell and my Self was a
hunting about a mile & a half from the Camp, and heard a gun just below
us on the other side of the River, and as none of our People could cross,
I was in hopes of getting some direction from the Person, but could not
find him.
June 9th. We crossed the River & went down it to the mouth of a Creek
& up the Creek to the head and over a Ridge into a Steep Valley and
Camped.
10th. Trinity Sunday. Being in very bad ground for our Horses, we
concluded to move. We were very much hindered by the Trees, that were
blown down on Monday last. We Camped on a Small Branch.
11th. It rained violently in the Latter part of the Night & till 9 o'Clock.
The Branch is impassable at present. We lost a Tomahawk and a Cann
by the Flood.
12th. The Water being low we went down the Branch to a large Creek,
& up the Creek. Many of the trees in the Branches are Wash'd up by
the Roots and others barked by the old trees, that went down ye Stream.
The Roots in the Bottom of the Runs are Barked by the Stones.
June 13th. We are very much hindered by the Gust & a shower of Rain
about Noon. Game is very scarce here, and the mountains very bad, the
tops of the Ridges being so covered with Ivy and the sides so steep and
stony that we were obliged to cut our way through with our Tomahawks.
14th. The Woods are still bad and Game scarce. It rained to-day about
Noon & we Camped on the top of A Ridge.
15th-16th. We got on a large Creek where Turkey are plenty and some
Elks. We went a hunting & killed 3 Turkeys. Hunted & killed 3 Bears
& some Turkeys.
17th. The Sabbath. We killed a large Buck Elk.
18th. Having prepared a good stock of Meat, we left the Creek crossing
several Branches and Ridges. The Woods still continuing bad the
weather hot & our Horses so far spent, that we are all obliged to walk.
June 19th. We got to Laurel Creek early this morning, and met so impudent
a Bull Buffalo that we were obliged to shoot him, or he would
have been amongst us. We then went up the Creek six miles, thence up a
North Branch of it to the Head, and attempted to cross a mountain, but
it proved so high and difficult, that we were obliged to Camp on the side
of it. This Ridge is nigh the eastern edge of the Coal Land.
20th. We got to the top of the Mountain and Could discover a flat to
the South & South East. We went down from the Ridge to a Branch and
down the Branch to Laurel Creek not far from where we left it yesterday
no Bear's Oil I rub'd the place with a piece of fat meat, which had the
desired effect.
21st. We found the Level Nigh the Creek so Full of laurel that we were
obliged to go up a Small Branch, and from the head of that to the Creek
again, and found it good travelling a Small distance from the Creek. We
Camped on the Creek. Deer are very scarce on the Coal Land. I have
seen but 4 since the 30th of April.
June 22nd. We kept up to the head of the Creek, and the Land being
Leveller than we have lately seen, and here are some large Savanna's.
Many of the Branches are full of Laurel and Ivy. Deer and Bears are
plenty.
23rd. Land continues level with Laurel and Ivy & we got to a large
Creek with very high & steep Banks full of Rocks which I called Clifty
Creek, the Rocks are 100 feet perpendicular in some Places.
24th. The Sabbath.
25th. We Crossed Clifty Creek. Here is a little Coal and the Land still
flat.
26th. We crossed a Creek that we called Dismal Creek, the Banks being
the worst and the Laurel the thickest I have seen. The Land is Mountainous
on the East Side of the Dismal Creek, and the Laurels end in a
few miles. We Camped on a Small Branch.
June 27th. The Land is very high & we crossed several Ridges and
camped on a small Branch. It rained about Noon and continued till the
next day.
28th. It continued raining till Noon, and we set off as soon as it ceased
and went down the Branch we lay on to the New River just below the
mouth of Green Bryer. Powell, Tomlison and myself stripped, and went
into the New River to try if we could wade over at any place. After
some time having found a place we returned to the others and took such
things as would take damage by water on our Shoulders, and waded over
Leading our Horses. The bottom is very uneven, the Rocks very slippery
and the Current very Strong most of the way. We Camped in the Low
Ground opposite to the mouth of Green Bryer.
29th. We kept up Green Bryer. It being a wet day we went only 2
miles, and Camped on the North Side.
June 30th. We went 7 miles up the River, which is very crooked.
July ye 1st. The Sabbath. Our Salt being almost spent We travelled 10
miles, sometimes on the River and at other times some distance from it.
2nd. We kept up the River the chief part of the day and we travelled
about 10 miles.
3rd. We went up the River 10 miles to-day.
4th. We went up the River 10 miles through very bad Woods.
5th. The way growing worse we travelled 9 miles only.
6th. We left the River. The low grounds on it are of very little Value,
but on the Branches are very good, and there is a great deal of it, and
the high land is very good in many places. We got on a large Creek called
chiefly bought. We kept up the creek 4 miles and Camped. This Creek took
its Name from an Indian, called John Anthony, that frequently hunts in
these Woods. There are some inhabitants on the Branches of Green Bryer,
but we missed their Plantations.
July 7th. We kept up the Creek, and about Noon 5 men overtook us and
inform'd us we were only 8 miles from the inhabitants on a Branch of
James River called Jackson's River. We exchanged some Tallow for Meal
and parted. We Camped on a Creek nigh the top of Alleghany Ridge,
which we named Ragged Creek.
8th. Having Shaved, Shifted, & made new Shoes, we left our useless
Raggs at ye Camp & got to Walker Johnston's about Noon. We moved
over to Robert Armstrong's in the Afternoon & staid there all Night.
The People here are very hospitable and would be better able to support
Travellers was it not for the great number of Indian Warriors, that frequently
take what they want from them, much to their prejudice.
July 9th. We went to the hot Springs and found Six Invalids there.
The Spring Water is very Clear & warmer than new Milk, and there is a
spring of cold Water within 20 feet of the Warm one. I left one of my
Company this day.
10th. Having a Path we rode 20 miles & lodged at Captain Jemyson's
below the Panther Gap. Two of my Company went to a Smith to get
their Horses Shod.
11th. Our Way Mending, We travelled 30 miles to Augusta Court
House, where I found Mr. Andrew Johnston, the first of my acquaintance
I had seen since the 26th day of March.
12th. Mr. Johnston lent me a fresh Horse and sent my Horses to Mr.
David Steward's, who was so kind as to give them Pasturage. About
8 o'clock I set off leaving all my Company. It began to rain about 2 in
the Afternoon & I lodged at Capt. David Lewis's, about 34 miles from
Augusta Court House.
13th. I got home about Noon.
We killed on the Journey 13 Buffaloes, 8 Elks, 53 Bears, 20 Deer, 4
Wild Geese, about 150 Turkeys, besides small Game. We might have
killed three times as much meat if we had wanted it.
| History of southwest Virginia, 1746-1786, Washington County, 1777-1870 | |