University of Virginia Library

AGRIGENTUM

The dreariness of the ride from Sciacca to Girgenti,
is interrupted only by the occasional appearance
of one of the many torrents which rush from
the mountains to the sea, and the sight of some old
tower crowning a bluff upon the shore. These relies
of ancient fortresses are pleasant objects in the
lonely prospects, since they carry back the mind to
one of the most romantic, though least known, of the
eras of Sicilian history. Another striking object
which draws the attention of the wanderer through
this solitary region, is the singular aspect of a little
village on a hill-top which, about fifty years since,
was deserted by its inhabitants on account of its
bleak position, who erected their cottages in the
sheltered vale below, leaving their former dwellings

to decay. The compact low walls of this group of
grey cottages are conspicuous in their desertion, and
when first seen present, in conjunction with the country
around them, a melancholy though not displeasing
picture. It is somewhat startling to the unprepared
equestrian, after crossing the line of beach
which completes his dreary ride, to find himself upon
the Mole of Girgenti which, although of inconsiderable
extent, often presents a scene of bustle and activity.
Lines of galley slaves may be seen repairing
the mound, the clank of their fetters blending with
the roar of the waves, vessels of no ordinary burden,
lying off the shore to receive their cargoes, boats plying,
and higher up, crowds of porters transporting the sulphur-cake,
the great article of export here, or arranging
it in long piles to be weighed. As he leaves
this little mart, a more cheerful country at once
presents itself, and a level and well-travelled road
echoes cheerily to the steps of his steed. Small
droves of donkeys, with their panniers filled with the
firmly moulded product of the mine, wind along the
highway, and far above appears the Girgenti on the
summit of a mountain. Although this, like most
of the Sicilian towns when viewed from afar, presents
a strong, ancient, and really picturesque appearance,
when more intimately known it is found
to consist of narrow and filthy streets, where beggary
vaunts its wretchedness, and comfort is almost unknown;
where a splendid church, a few palaces, or
some beautifully located convents are in saddening
contrast with the general and too often disgusting
tokens of neglect and misery. It was perfectly
refreshing to the spirits of the strangers to find themselves,
on a balmy and bright morning, free from the
air of the modern town which rose commandingly
above them, and traversing the fertile and noble plain
upon which stand the antiquities they sought.
The day, indeed, was an uncommon one even for
that region. The warm enervating breath of a mild
sirocco wind was tempered by the sea-breeze. The
light fleecy clouds of a summer sky had floated down
to the very edge of the horizon, and the broad clear
canopy of heaven was one boundless expanse of
azure, while the sun, as yet devoid of the intense
heat of the approaching season, shone in all the
glory without the fervid heat of a southern spring.
It was one of those splendid days which bring to
such as are blessed with health, an unaccountable
exhilaration; which fill up the measure of content,
and charm the senses while they animate the soul.
The field through which our little party were proceeding,
was vividly green with early grain, as if the
goddess once worshipped in this plain still delighted
to clothe it with the emblems of her favor. Over
this thickly-woven garniture, fell far and wide the
shadows of innumerable almond and olive trees,
which studded, for a great distance, the plentiful
domain; the dark and light tints of their foliage intermingling
in rich variety. Here stood the second
ancient city of Sicily. The remains of a temple
consecrated to Ceres and Prosperine have shared the
fate of many architectural relics of past ages, in
being transformed into constituent parts of a church.
One column of what is called Vulcan's temple is embedded
in a peasant's cottage, and the only other
remaining one rises at the corner of his garden-wall.
Two columnar fragments, and the staircase of the
temple of Esculapius are in a like situation. But
with these exceptions, the ruins of Agrigentum exist
inviolate to an extraordinary degree, and are less invaded
by modern and irrelevant circumstances than
is often the case with the antiquities of Europe. The
first in tolerable preservation is the temple of Juno
Lucina. Its position is beautiful and commanding;
and the foundation of the internal wall, thirteen
perfect and many broken columns of the Doric
order, are still standing. The altar-base is also discoverable
and one can follow the corridors in their
whole extent. From the little esplanade in front, a
view of vastness and beauty expands to the vision.
This space was evidently left for effect, and a few
ancient benches of stone at a sufficient distance to
command a view of the whole edifice, suggest how
much judgment was exercised in the location and
arrangement of the edifice. This spot must have
been a favorite retreat for the contemplative. The
sea spreads itself illimitably on the one side, and all
the space around is one luxuriant valley bounded by
a fine ridge of mountains, upon one of which the
modern town of Girgenti now stands; while directly
before the spectator rose, with a simple majesty accordant
with the spirit of the scene, the noble fabric
whose vestiges still awaken admiration.

“One disposed to be fanciful,” said Vittorio, as
they stood enjoying the prospect, “might almost
imagine that he heard the flutter of a philosopher's
robe in this early and invigorating breeze, so well-adapted
seems the spot to the dignity of thought.
And may we not reasonably suppose that this level
space before so beautiful an edifice, has often been
paced by the slow feet of sages as they sought, according
to the delightful custom of antiquity, mutually
to impart wisdom, with Nature's restoring breath
playing around, and Art's noblest trophies rising
beside them? It was within the walls of this temple,
that the precious painting of Zeuxis, in which
were concentrated the charms of the five most lovely
women of Agrigentum, was preserved.”

“It is a fine idea, is it not,” said Isabel, “that of
weaving into one perfect whole the beauties which
nature has scattered? There is poetry in the thought.
So may we gather the volatile light of pleasure by
keeping our spirits clear and open that, like a lens,
they may gather the scattered rays and make them
radiate one warm beam of joy upon the heart.”

“And there is philosophy in the thought, also,” said
Vittorio. “Thus, too, comes to us wisdom and truth.
Men err most essentially by seeking them from partial
sources; one from a single science, another from
nature alone, and a third from an abstract theory.
Like the Grecian painter, we should be more universal;
and combine into a luminous whole, the
light that beams from the wide domain of creation,

and the broad universe of humanity. We should
roam, like the blessed founder of a pure religion,
seeking emblems of the good and the true in the lily
and the grass, in the humble action of the despised,
and the ostentatious effort of the wealthy, in the
aspect of childhood and the events of time. Gleaning
thus from society and the universe, the garland
we should weave on the by-way of time, like the
painting of Zeuxis, would blend the various glories
which men too often seek singly, and therefore find
inadequate.”

Passing on by scattered masses of the ancient
walls, in which are discoverable the niches for the
deposit of funeral urns, the next temple is that of
Concord, the most perfect of the antiquities, being
complete with the exception of the roof. It is situated
a little lower than that of Juno, but is still sufficiently
elevated, to command from its top the same extent
and variety of scenery. At the distance of a few
rods, a line of low wall-stones and a group of columnar
and other fragments, evidence the former magnificence
of the Temple of Hercules, and farther on,
two or three enormous capitals, and the foundation
layers of the outer wall of the temple of Jupiter
Olympicus, prove it to have been one of the largest
of the ancient edifices of Sicily. As the visitor
wanders amid this huge mass of ruins, he discovers
in the midst, a group of stone-work, in which a
little attention will enable him to decipher the lineaments
and frame of a stupendous giant. Several
other remnants of this kind are noticeable among

the massive blocks, and it is conjectured that these
monsters were carved to form a secondary row of
pillars in this grand structure. In a pleasant dale
below this heap of remains, stand three chaste columns
and a cornice, all that exist entire of the temple
of Castor and Pollux. A square massive tower of
unquestionable antiquity, in the vicinity, is known as
the tomb of Theron, although by some it is supposed
to be the monument of a horse, many of which are
known to have been erected by the Agrigentines.

After many delightful hours spent in viewing these
various objects, Vittorio suggested that they should
repair to the convent of St. Nicolo, which stands
upon the brow of a mountain above the valley.
This monastery has, for many years, been deserted
by the Franciscan fraternity, to whose patrimony it
belongs; but it is still visited occasionally by travellers
on account of the fine view obtainable from its
roof. When they reached this point of observation,
the panorama canopied by a brilliant sky, appeared
to them unparalleled. The surface of the distant sea
was unbroken by a single sail, but the line of foam
evidenced that its wide bosom was stirred far out by
the free wind. The dark tint, of the innumerable
ancient olives, relieved the light green of the almond
trees, which shared with them the extensive plain.
On a gradually declining strip of upland, between the
convent and the sea, at a sufficient distance apart to
give due effect to each, appeared the remains of the
city—Juno's line of pillars, the graceful Temple of
Concord, prominent in its completeness, the dim

masses of Jupiter and Hercules, and in meek beauty,
lightly springing from below, the three columns of
Castor and Pollux. The stone of which these temples
is composed is not of a firm texture, and the marine
atoms discernible in its composition prove it to be of
alluvial formation. It is of a brownish or clay color,
which contrasts finely with the verdure around, and,
with the added advantage of the lucid atmosphere
peculiar to these regions, gives to the several structures
an exquisite relief in the landscape. The notes
of birds, or the clear chime of the bells from the
town above, were the only sounds which disturbed
the reflections of the strangers, as they gazed from
the lofty convent upon the scene of their ramble.

“Enterprise,” observed Frazier, “well directed in
the excavation of this valley, would, doubtless, bring
to light many valuable relics of antiquity. No one
can inspect the meagre collection which has rewarded
the comparatively trifling labor bestowed here in
seeking for vases, without being convinced that there
are innumerable unearthed treasures lying beneath
these grain fields.” “It were certainly desirable,”
said Vittorio, “not only here but at Pompeii and
Rome, where the sight of such slow and childish
attempts at discovery in a sphere in which one feels
there is so much to seek, is certainly provoking. But
how admirably are these antiquities situated to convey
an impression! No piles of wooden buildings
environ them. The noise and filth of a populous town
obliges not the traveller to seek them by moonlight, as
is the case in the Eternal city. They are alone with

nature. As we look upon them thus, there is no
difficulty in realizing their authenticity. Through
this plain whirled the ivory chariots of the Agrigentines
drawn by horses of unrivalled swiftness and beauty.
Here the tyrant Phalaris practised his cruelties.
From that line of tombs hurried the fear-stricken
soldiers of Hannibal, when the sudden thunder storm
frightened them from their sacrilegious purpose. A
little more than four centuries before the Christian era,
a population of eight hundred thousand souls inhabited
this rich valley, now rendered picturesque by a few
remnants of the majestic temples of their gods. Over
all else obscurity has drawn a veil. And long may
these beautiful relics lift their time-worn shapes from
this verdant plain, to solemnize the fresh exuberance
of nature with the emblems of departed time,
and awaken the thoughtful yet pleasing emotions
with which we contemplate the mystery of the
Past!”

The return route from Girgenti to the capital by the
most direct way, affords a good opportunity to judge
of the interior features of the island: Perhaps there
are few countries of similar extent, where a greater
contrast is observable than that between the coast
and interior of Sicily. Along the sea and about Etna,
the aspect is fertile and delightful, and the stranger
who should circumnavigate the island during fine
weather, would receive an impression of the richness
and beauty of the country which might realize his
most romantic dreams of the luxurious south. Yet
farther back, bare hills and wild torrents constitute

the predominant scenery, sometimes brightened and
diversified by patches of wild flowers. The course
which our pilgrims pursued to expedite their return,
led them through long tracks of bleak pasturage, and
they crossed more than thirty times the same circuitous
fiumare, then shrunk to comparatively narrow
dimensions, but when at all swollen by the winter
rains, presenting a complete barrier to the traveller's
progress. Yet amidst these unproductive parts of
the island, there are still presented striking evidences
of its natural resources. The low mounds and light
smoke of the sulphur mines, of which there are several
of apparently unexhaustible material in Sicily, are
seen at intervals giving signs of life to some lonely
ridge of hills. Still it is a relief to emerge after a
long day's travel, from this almost deserted domain
and strike upon the fine road which runs through the
island. The occasional appearance of the country
guards, who generally move abroad in pairs well
mounted, give an assurance of the neighborhood of
more civilized provinces. These campieri, as they
are called, are selected from the inhabitants of each
village, and their commander is responsible for all
robberies on the highway during the day, an arrangement
which has proved very effectual in preserving
the rights of travellers. In the neighborhood of Palermo,
a broad valley covered with rocks and olive-trees
indicates the scene of a noted brigand-fight, in
which seven of these desperadoes succeeded in keeping
at bay a large number of troops and nearly a hundred
peasants for several hours, and at length five effected
their escape. Another scene of interest in the vicinity
is a village founded by a Greek colony, where
one of the dialects of that language is still spoken,
and on feast-days the costume of the nation worn.
It is one of the customs peculiar to this spot, and a
similar and more distant settlement, that the priests are
allowed to marry. In the light of a fine afternoon
the vale of Palermo was once again revealed to the
longing eyes of Isabel, and she could not but compare
the mere curiosity with which she first greeted the distant
city, with the homefelt emotions which now filled
her heart, as at the presence of a cherished friend.