 | Letters from New York |  |
LETTER VIII.
Among the many objects of interest in this great city, a
stranger cannot overlook its shipping; especially as New-York
lays claim to superiority over other cities of the
Union, in the construction of vessels, which are remarked
for beauty of model, elegance of finish, and gracefulness of
sparring.
I have often anathematized the spirit of Trade, which
reigns triumphant, not only on 'Change, but in our halls of
legislation, and even in our churches. Thought is sold under
the hammer, and sentiment, in its holiest forms, stands
labelled for the market. Love is offered to the highest
bidder, and sixpences are given to purchase religion for
starving souls.
In view of these things, I sometimes ask whether the age
of Commerce is better than the age of War? Whether our
Whether it is better for the many to be prostrated
by force, or devoured by cunning? To the imagination,
those bloody old barons seem the nobler of the two; for it
is more manly to hunt a lion, than to entrap a fox. But
Reason acknowledges that merchandize, with all its cunning
and its fraud, is a step forward in the slow march of
human improvement; and Hope announces, in prophetic
tones, that Commerce will yet fulfil its highest mission, and
encircle the world in a golden band of brotherhood.
You will not think this millenium is nigh, when I tell
you that the most graceful, fairy-like vessel in these waters
was a slaver! She floated like a sea-nymph, and cut the
waves like an arrow. I mean the Baltimore clipper, called
the Catharine; taken by British cruisers, and brought here,
with all her detestable appurtenances of chains and padlocks,
to be adjudged by the United States' Court, condemned,
and sold. For what purpose she is now used, I
know not; but no doubt this city is secretly much involved
in the slave-trade.
At the Navy Yard, Brooklyn, I saw the ship of war Independence,
which carried out Mr. Dallas and his family,
when he went ambassador to Russia. On their arrival
at Cronstadt, they observed a barge, containing sixteen of
the emperor's state officers, put off from a steamboat near by,
and row towards them. They came on board, leaving behind
them the bargemen, and a tall, fine-looking man at the
helm. While the officers were in the cabin partaking refreshments
and exchanging courtesies, the helmsman leaped
on board, and made himself “hail fellow, well met”
with the sailors, accepting cuds of tobacco, and asking various
questions. When the officers returned on deck, and he
had resumed his place, one of the sailors said to his comrade,
with a knowing look, “I tell you what, Tom, that'ere
chap's more than we take him for. He's a land-lubber, I
him.”
An officer of the Independence overheard these remarks,
and whispered to Commodore Nicholson that he shrewdly
suspected the tall, plainly-dressed helmsman, was the Emperor
Nicholas, in disguise; for he was said to be fond of
playing such pranks. A royal salute, forty-two guns, was
immediately ordered. The helmsman was observed to
count the guns; and after twenty-one (the common salute)
had been fired, he took off his cap and bowed. The Russian
steamer instantly ran up the imperial flag; all the forts,
and every ship in the harbor, commenced a tremendous
cannonading; rending the air, as when from “crag to crag
leaps the live thunder.”
In courteous acknowledgment of his discovered disguise,
the officers of the Independence were invited to make the
palace their home, during their stay at St. Petersburg, and
the Emperor's carriages, horses, and aids, were at their service;
a compliment never before paid to a vessel of any
nation.
Yet was similar honour conferred on an uncouth country
boy from New England! The following is the substance
of the story, as told by Mr. Dallas, at a public dinner given
him in Philadelphia, on his return from Russia, in 1838.
One day a lad, apparently about nineteen, presented himself
before our ambassador at St. Petersburg. He was a
pure specimen of the genus Yankee; with sleeves too short
for his bony arms, trowsers half way up to his knees, and
hands playing with coppers and ten-penny nails in his pocket.
He introduced himself by saying “I've just come out
here to trade, with a few Yankee notions, and I want to get
sight of the Emperor.”
“Why do you wish to see him?”
“I've brought him a present, all the way from Ameriky.
I respect him considerable, and I want to get at him, to give
it to him with my own hands.”
Mr. Dallas smiled, as he answered, “It is such a common
thing, my lad, to make crowned heads a present, expecting
something handsome in return, that I'm afraid the
Emperor will consider this only a Yankee trick. What
have you brought?”
“An acorn.”
“An acorn! what under the sun induced you to bring the
Emperor of Russia an acorn?”
“Why, jest before I sailed, mother and I went on to
Washington to see about a pension; and when we was
there, we thought we'd jest step over to Mount Vernon. I
picked up this acorn there; and I thought to myself I'd
bring it to the Emperor. Thinks, says I, he must have
heard a considerable deal about our General Washington,
and I expect he must admire our institutions. So now you
see I've brought it, and I want to get at him.”
“My lad, it's not an easy matter for a stranger to approach
the Emperor; and I am afraid he will take no notice of
your present. You had better keep it.”
“I tell you I want to have a talk with him. I expect I
can tell him a thing or two about Ameriky. I guess he'd
like mighty well to hear about our rail-roads, and our free
schools, and what a big swell our steamers cut. And when
he hears how well our people are getting on, may be it will
put him up to doing something. The long and the short
on't is, I shan't be easy till I get a talk with the Emperor;
and I should like to see his wife and children. I want to see
how such folks bring up a family.”
“Well, sir, since you are so determined upon it, I will
do what I can for you? but you must expect to be disappointed.
Though it will be rather an unusual proceeding, I
would advise you to call on the vice-chancellor, and state
your wishes; he may possibly assist you.”
“Well, that's all I want of you. I will call again, and
let you know how I get on.”
In two or three days, he again appeared, and said, “Well,
I've seen the Emperor, and had a talk with him. He's a
real gentleman, I can tell you. When I give him the acorn,
he said he should set a great store by it; that there was no
character in ancient or modern history he admired so much
as he did our Washington. He said he'd plant it in his
palace garden with his own hand; and he did do it—for I
see him with my own eyes. He wanted to ask me so much
about our schools and rail-roads, and one thing or another,
that he invited me to come again, and see his daughters:
for he said his wife could speak better English than he
could. So I went again, yesterday; and she's a fine,
knowing woman, I tell you; and his daughters are nice
gals.”
“What did the Empress say to you?”
“Oh, she asked me a sight o'questions. Don't you think,
she thought we had no servants in Ameriky! I told her
poor folks did their own work, but rich folks had plenty of
servants. `But then you don't call 'em servants,' said she;
`you call 'em help.' I guess ma'am you've been reading
Mrs. Trollope? says I. We had that ere book aboard our
ship. The Emperor clapped his hands, and laughed as if
he'd kill himself. `You're right, sir,' said he, `you're
right. We sent for an English copy, and she's been reading
it this very morning!' Then I told him all I knew
about our country, and he was mightily pleased. He wanted
to know how long I expected to stay in these parts. I
told him I'd sold all the notions I brought over, and I
guessed I should go back in the same ship. I bid 'em good
bye, all round, and went about my business. Ain't I had
a glorious time? I expect you didn't calculate to see me
run such a rig?”
“No, indeed, I did not, my lad. You may well consider
yourself lucky; for it's a very uncommon thing for crowned
heads to treat a stranger with so much distinction.”
A few days after, he called again, and said, “I guess
I shall stay here a spell longer, I'm treated so well.
T'other day a grand officer come to my room, and told me
the Emperor had sent him to show me all the curiosities;
and I dressed myself, and he took me with him, in a mighty
fine carriage, with four horses; and I've been to the theatre
and the museum; and I expect I've seen about all there is
to be seen in St. Petersburg. What do you think of that,
Mr. Dallas?”
It seemed so incredible that a poor, ungainly Yankee lad
should be thus loaded with attentions, that the ambassador
scarcely knew what to think or say.
In a short time, his strange visiter re-appeared. “Well,”
said he, “I made up my mind to go home; so I went to thank
the Emperor, and bid him good-bye. I thought I couldn't
do no less, he'd been so civil. Says he, `Is there anything
else you'd like to see, before you go back to Ameriky?' I
told him I should like to get a peep at Moscow; for I'd
heard considerable about their setting fire to the Kremlin,
and I'd read a deal about General Bonaparte; but it would
cost a sight o'money to go there, and I wanted to carry my
earnings to mother. So I bid him good-bye, and come off.
Now what do you guess he did, next morning? I vow, he
sent the same man, in regimentals, to carry me to Moscow
in one of his own carriages, and bring me back again,
when I've seen all I want to see! And we're going to-morrow
morning, Mr Dallas. What do you think now?”
And sure enough, the next morning the Yankee boy
passed the ambassador's house in a splendid coach and four,
waving his handkerchief, and shouting “Good-bye! Good-bye!'
Mr. Dallas afterward learned from the Emperor that all
the particulars related by this adventurous youth were
strictly true. He again heard from him at Moscow, waited
as is usually bestowed on ambassadors.
The last tidings of him reported that he was travelling in
Circassia, and writing a Journal, which he intended to publish.
Now, who but a Yankee could have done all that?
While speaking of the Emperor, I must not forget the
magnificent steam frigate Kamschatka, built here to his order.
Her model, drafted by Captain Von Shantz, of the
Russian navy, is extremely beautiful. She sits on the water
as gracefully as a swan; and it is said her speed is not
equalled by any sea-steamer on the Atlantic or Pacific, the
Black sea, the Indian, or the Baltic. It is supposed she
could easily make the passage from here to England in ten
days. The elegance of her rigging, and her neat, nimble
wheels have been particularly admired. These wheels are
constructed on a new plan; and though apparently slight,
have great strength and power. Her engines are of six
hundred horse power, and her tonnage about two thousand.
All the metal about her is American. In machinery and
construction she carries two hundred thousand pounds of
copper, fifty thousand of wrought iron, and three hundred
thousand of cast iron. Two hundred and fifty men were eight
months employed in building her. Her cabins are said to be
magnificent. Two drawing-rooms are fitted up in princely
style for the imperial family: the wood-work of these consists
of mahogany, bird's-eye maple, rose-wood, and satinwood.
Her hull is entirely black; the bows and stern surmounted
with a large double-headed gilt eagle, and a crown.
The machinery, made by Messrs. Dunham & Co. of this
city, is said to be of the most superb workmanship ever
produced in this country. She is considered a remarkably
cheap vessel of the kind, as she cost only four hundred
thousand dollars. She was built under the superintendence
of Mr. Scott, who goes in her to Russia, as chief engineer.
the harbour by a large party of ladies and gentlemen.
Among these was Mr. Rhoades, of New-York, the Naval
Constructor. You probably recollect that he built a large
gun-ship for the Turkish Sultan; who was so much delighted
when he saw the noble vessel launched right royally
upon the waves, that he jumped and capered, and threw his
arms about the ship-builder's neck, and gave him a golden
box, set with splendid jewels. Henry Eckford, too, one of
the most remarkable of marine architects, was of New-York.
He built the Kensington for the Greeks, and died
prematurely while in the employ of Mahmoud. It is singular,
is it not, that foreign powers send to this young country,
when they most want ingenious machinery, or skilful workmanship?
But I will quit this strain, lest I fall into our
national sin of boasting.
I cannot bid you farewell without mentioning the French
frigate Belle Poule, commanded by the Prince de Joinville,
son of Louis Philippe. She is an interesting object seen
from the Battery, with her tri-colour flying; for one seems
to see the rich sarcophagus, with its magnificent pall of
black velvet, sprinkled with silver stars, in which she conveyed
the remains of Napoleon from St. Helena to Paris.
Every day, masses were said, and requiems sung on board,
for the soul of the great departed. Do not quarrel with the
phrase. In its highest significance it is ill applied to any
warrior; but, nevertheless, in the strong will, successfully
enforced, there is ever an element of greatness.
The same unrivalled band that attended the imperial remains,
are now on board, and sometimes refresh our citizens
with most enchanting music. They are twenty-six
in number, paid from the Prince's own purse.
Sabbath before last, a youth of fourteen, much beloved,
died on board, far from home and kindred. It was an impressive
sight to see the coffin of the young stranger passing
suspended upon ropes, after the manner of marine burials
in Europe, and borne by his mourning comrades.
The Prince's private state-room contains a bronze copy
of the Joan of Are, which was exquisitely sculptured by
his sister, Marie, who had great genius for the fine arts,
and was richly endowed with intellect. In the same room
are miniatures of his royal parents, by the celebrated Madame
de Mirbel, and some very spirited sketches by his own
hand. It is worthy of remark, that the only royal family
eminently distinguished for private virtues, combined with
a high degree of intellectual cultivation, were not educated
to be princes; and that their father had acquired wisdom
and strength in the school of severe adversity.
The keeper of Castle Garden, when he saw me watching
the barge that came from the Belle Poule, repeated, at
least half a dozen times, that I should not know the Prince
from any other man, if I were to see him. I was amused
to hear him thus betray the state of his own mind, though
he failed to enlighten mine.
I love to linger about the Battery at sunset; to see the
flags all drop down suddenly from the mast-head, in honour
of the retreating king of day; and to hear in the stillness
of evening, some far-off song upon the waters, or the deep,
solemn sound, “All's well!” echoed from one to another
of those numerous ships, all lying there so hushed and motionless.
A thousand thoughts crowd upon my mind, as I
silently gaze on their twinkling lights, and shadowy rigging,
dimly relieved against the sky. I think of the human
hearts imprisoned there; of the poor sailor's toil and suffering;
of his repressed affections, and benighted mind;
and in that one idea of life spent without a home, I find
condensed all that my nature most shudders at. I think,
too, of the poor fugitive slave, hunted out by mercenary
agents, chained on ship-board, and perchance looking up,
my free and happy gaze. Alas, how fearfully solemn must
their light be to him, in his hopeless sorrow, and superstitious
ignorance.
| Letters from New York | |