University of Virginia Library

12. Chapter Twelfth
Incidents of Travel

In looking over old diaries, I find, under date
of July 8th 1867this item. "On my way from Virginia
I rode from Washington to New York in the car with Gen.
& Mrs. Grant." This was the only time I ever saw Gen.
Grant except on the day of his inauguration March 4th 1869. At that time I had been teaching in
Charlottesville three years, and went to Washington
accompanied by Mrs. Isabella Gibbons one of our
colored teachers. Her husband was a Baptist preacher
and presided over a church in that city, so, through
him we secured accommodations for a few days. I
did not attempt to witness the inauguration ceremonies
but saw the procession from the Treasury Building
from which spot I waved my handkerchief to the
incoming President in return for the bow with
which he saluted the group assembled there. After the
procession, (which was very long) had passed, we went
to the Capitol, and Mr. Gibbons who was familiar with
every part of it, took us well over the vast structure.
Although I had seen the main part of the building

before, I had not been in the basement, so this was quite
a revelation to me with its restaurants, barber shops etc
etc. Returning to the main floor, Mr. G. espied a page
hastening towards the Senate Chamber with a message.
Said he "That boy has a list of the names of the new
Presidents Cabinet. We'll see who they are." saying
which he stopped the page and asked to see the list.
So we got ahead of the U. S. Senate that time. We went
on to the Senate Chamber, however, and heard the names
read to that august body. I stayed in Washington three
or four days at that time, and while there heard "Blind
Tom" the musical wonder, visited Charles Sumners
house, the navy yard Smithsonian Institute and
other places of interest. This was not my first visit
in Washington, however, as in July 1867Miss Gardner
and I stopped over for a day, on our way to Charlottesville
at the Hotel of Mr. Joy corner of 8th St and Pennsylvania
Ave. Mr. Joy was a Massachusetts man, and upon
learning that we were Freedmen's teachers exerted
himself to make our visit there pleasant.

He
introduced us to Mr. & Mrs. John Jolliffe. Mr. Jolliffe
was a Virginia lawyer, a Quaker by birth, and an
old time abolitionist. He was the lawyer who

defended Margaret Garner, the slave mother who
killed her two little daughters to save them from the
fate she knew awaited them in slavery. He was very
much interested in our work, and opened a
correspondence with us in regard to it. He had
a good deal of influence in Washington, and
offered to get us positions in the schools there, or if
we preferred, in some of the departments, but we
were too much interested in our work in Virginia
to consider any other position however advantageous
it might be. Mr. Jolliffe died, at an advanced age, a
year or two later, and was followed to his grave by
a procession which included a large part of the
colored population of the city.

It was on the visit above mentioned that I had
the good fortune to meet a young gentleman
from Boston whose name I have most ungratefully
forgotten, but who acted as my escort to all the
principal places of interest in the city, and it was
with him that I made my first ascent up the dome
of the Capitol — a feat I accomplished two or three
times afterward. He took me around to Fords
Theatre where President Lincoln was shot, and pointed

out the house where he died, as well showing me
the Patent Office, Smithsonian Institute and
Treasury Building.

We stopped at Mr. Joys once
more — the following year I think — and went into
both Houses of Congress which was in session at the
time. I remember hearing Charles Sumner say a few
earnest words, but do not now recall the matter
under discussion. I saw Ben Butler in the House.
The relations between President Johnson and the
Congress were very much strained at the time.
Miss G. and I wished very much to attend one of
the receptions at the White House, but our feelings toward
Mr. Johnson were none too kindly and we could not
make up our minds to shake hands with him, while
we would not commit so unpardonable a breach of
good manners as to follow the example of some who,
we were told, deliberately insulted the President by
refusing his proffered hand when introduced. No act
of his could be an excuse for such discourtesy for no
one, unconnected with affairs of the government
was compelled to meet him. He undoubtedly acted
up to his own idea of what was right, and should at
least, have been accorded the consideration due to the President

when met at a public reception.

I have always regretted that I never took the trip to
Mt. Vernon which I could easily have done by stopping
over an extra day in Washington, but I postponed
it from time to time until the opportunity slipped
away, as opportunities have a habit of doing unless
we seize them as they halt before us.

Early in 1868 a Convention for the purpose of
framing a new State Constitution preparatory to
readmission to the Union was held at Richmond
Two delegates — both Republican — were sent from
Charlottesville. Mr. Thompson, white, a printer, and
an old friend of Garrison, and James T. S. Taylor,
colored — a former pupil in my night school.
Naturally Miss Gardner and I were much interested
in the work of this Convention, so on Feb. 27th
we went down to Richmond for a few days. Mr.
Thompson secured board for us at the Monticello
House where he was staying. He with a friend of his,
also a delegate, met us at the station, and asked
us if we would like to attend a political meeting
to be held that evening in the Convention
hall at the Capital. Judge Rives of Charlottesville

Mr. Underwood, and John Minor Botts were to be
the principal speakers. Of course we accepted
the invitation gladly. After supper Mr. Thompson
came to us and said that he had learned that
there would probably be no ladies present, and possibly
we would not care to go under such circumstances
but Miss Gardner assured him it would make no
difference to her, if he and his friend did not
object to taking us there. Of course they professed
to be more than willing, and equally of course, I
felt all right to follow Miss Gardners lead, so we went
and listened to bright and witty speeches from Mr.
Underwood and Mr. Botts, and an exceedingly
eloquent and delightful one from Judge Rives.
There was just one other lady present on that occasion,
the wife of one of the delegates. We felt that she
was probably glad that we were there to keep her in
countenance, although she was, probably, like
ourselves too independent to mind it much.
There was one other delegate with whom we had a
slight acquaintance — Lieut. Fred. Poor
from Gordonsville. He recognized us and came from
his place in the hall to greet us. We enjoyed the

speeches much, and were very glad we went.

On the following day we visited the school taught
by Miss Bessie Canedy, who was an old friend of
Miss Gardners and in the afternoon we attended
the Convention at the Capital.

Feb 29th we visited Libby Prison, attended the
Convention, and called at the Teachers Home.
In the Home were some with whom we had become
acquainted, viz Miss Abby Francis of Cambridge, a
niece of Lydia Maria Child, and the Misses Ball
and Miss Harriet Buttrick of Concord.

March 1st Sunday. Attended Jeff Davis' church
(Episcopal) in the morning and dined at the
Teachers Home by invitation

March 2d Went out to Gambill Hill, visited several
schools, and attended the Convention. This
wound up our trip to Richmond as we returned
to Charlottesville the following day.

I had an interesting experience beginning with
Sept. 29th 1870. I was on my way to Charlottesville, and
when the train left Washington that morning it was
raining heavily. Occupying the seat with me was
a refined appearing lady of seventy odd years, whom

I afterwards learned was Mrs. Mary S. Livermore of
Cambridge. Travelling in company with her were Mrs
Lewis, a young woman from Tennessee, with her little
son six years old. Mrs. Lewis had been visiting in the
North, and Mrs Livermore was going on to spend the
winter with her. I learned these facts from the conversation
that passed between the two ladies, as Mrs Lewis and her
son sat directly in front of us

The rain continued
to fall in torrents through the forenoon. We reached
Gordonsville about mid-day, where trains usually
halted half an hour or so for lunch. But the half hour
extended to an hour — two hours — and other trains
arrived — this being a junction — and still we
stayed on. Finally the word got round among the
passengers that there was a great flood on the streams
ahead of us, and the bridges were either unsafe or
entirely swept away. There was nothing to do but to
make the best of it, and the passengers who did
not care to leave the train for the hotel, resorted
to all sorts of expedients to make themselves comfort
able for the night. Whenever the harrassed conductor
came into the car he was besieged with questions
which he was unable to answer satisfactorily, and

the hotels were besieged by hungry travellers
for food, which it strained their resources to
provide. There was a terrible onslaught made
upon the poultry yards to appease the appetites
of so many hungry people. Happily for me, I had
plenty of food still in my lunch basket, which I shared
with Mrs. Livermore and her companions. We made
acquaintance rapidly under the unusual
circumstances, and Mrs. Livermore became
a lifelong friend. The train remained stalled
there that night, and until late in the afternoon
of the following day when it moved on about
sixteen miles to a small place called Shadwell
which was only four miles from Charlottesville, but
between us and my destination two bridges
had been swept away — the one across the
Rivanna river, which we struck at Shadwell
and the one across Moores Creek near
Charlottesville. The Rivanna, usually a tiny
stream, which could, at times be crossed in some
place on the stones in its bed, was now a raging,
seething torrent. As it was impossible to proceed
with the train, it was decided to take it back to
Washington. Previous to this, however, the conductor
had returned to me the last coupon of my
ticket, saying he thought it unlikely that he
should be able to see me through to my destination
I still keep it as a souvenir of that memorable
journey. In the meantime I had learned
from the conversation I could not avoid hearing
that passed between Mrs. Livermore and Mrs. Lewis
that they were without money to meet such an
emergency as we had met. They had through tickets
and their baggage was expressed through, and Mrs.
Livermore had her bank books, and some jewelry
of value, but they had less than five dollars in
money between them. Mrs. Livermore was a feeble
old lady, and Mrs. Lewis was in no condition to travel
contend with extra hardships in travelling being within
a month of her confinement.

Fortunately I had a
good supply of money with me as the Society in
Boston had advanced me two months salary besides
my traveling expenses, so I had over a hundred
dollars on hand, therefore I offered them the loan
of ten dollars, which they gratefully accepted. I also
invited them to stop with me in Charlottesville

when we got there until they could resume their
journey, for we soon learned that the flood was
quite extensive and travel by rail between us
and Tennessee was impossible, so they were very
glad to accept the offer of a shelter under my roof,
and when it was announced that the train was
to return to Washington, Mrs. Livermore went out to
a near by house and asked the woman who occupied
it if she could keep us over night which she readily
consented to do; so we took up our hand baggage
consisting of traveling bags lunch baskets, wraps
and a basket containing pots of small plants which
Mrs. Lewis was taking home with her. Our exodus
was not unnoticed, for soon four gentlemen put
in an appearance and asked for lodging. Our
hostess evidently considered it the part of wisdom to
"make hay while the sun shines" so she agreed to
take them.

The establishment was not a large one.
The main house consisted of two good sized
square rooms in the rear of which was the
kitchen, separate from the house as was usual at
that time in Virginia. Our hostess with the
help of a colored girl prepared us a very good

and substantial supper, which, if I remember
rightly we ate in the kitchen, and then came
the preparations for the night. The four gentlemen
occupied what I suppose was the living room, camping
as best they could on the floor. In the other room was
one old fashioned ordinary bed, which Mrs. Livermore, Mrs.
Lewis and myself were told we were to occupy. We partially
undressed and threw ourselves upon it crosswise. On a low
chest was made a fairly comfortable pallet for Mrs. Lewis
little boy. Our hostess had five children of her own. She
reserved a trundle-bed, which she drew from beneath
the larger bed, for herself and her youngest child. For
the others she would throw down a mat or a woolen
garment, and point to one of the other four to lie
down upon it. Each one would obediently curl
himself upon the spot indicated by her gesture, and
all of them remained quiet through the night, as I can
testify for I slept very little myself. The comical side
of the position in which we found ourselves presented
itself with so much force that I was shaking with
smothered laughter a good part of the night. It
was so ludicrous — ten of us in one moderate-sized room
spread about very much like sheep in a pen — a
most unique experience, and as I was young
and well, and not far from my destination
I could enjoy the strangeness of it all, but I doubt
if it seemed as funny to Mrs. Livermore and her friend
with no money, and still a long journey before them.
In the morning we had our breakfast and settled
with our hostess, and then looked over the situation.
The river had settled a little, but was still a
whirling mass of water. The four gentlemen had
disappeared, and we were told they had crossed the
river. I said if they could get across we could do the
same, so we applied to a colored man who had
a boat to take us over. He agreed to take us one
at a time but would not attempt to carry us all
at once. I went first, and when well out in the
stream the boat got pretty giddy; but I was landed
safely in a tobacco field, which the day before had
been under water. Anyone acquainted with the
nature of Virginia soil, will understand the
luxurious softness of the ground beneath our feet
after we were all safely landed. We made tracks
— and pretty deep ones too — for the nearest house
which belonged to a well-to-do gentleman named
Smith, where, we had been told we might procure
horses to take us to Moores Creek. We were kindly
received and urged to remain until we could
proceed on our journey in comfort, but I was too
near home to be contented to stay and my
companions were as eager as myself to get on
to Charlottesville, so Mr. Smith sent a man to
ascertain if horses could go to the Creek. He soon
returned with the discouraging news that there
were so many gullies washed out, that travelling
on horseback would be impossible. So thanking
Mr. & Mrs. Smith for all they had done, and all they
had tried to do for us we set out on our pilgrimage
of two and a half miles to the Creek. We were
accompanied by a colored man and woman and
a boy and girl some twelve or thirteen years of age. They
carried our hand baggage, and assisted us in any
necessary way. I suppose these helpers were sent
with us by the Smiths, but do not
now remember whether that was the case, or whether
we had engaged the man, and the others had
volunteered their assistance. Any way we could
hardly have got along without them

We did not

make any special effort to follow the road, which
gave us no better travelling than the fields. We were
liable to get our feet entangled in the telegraph wires
(the poles having been thrown down by the flood) as well
as other obstacles, so we chose the easiest walking, whether
highway or field. My chief anxiety was on account
of poor Mrs. Lewis, who would frequently drop down
and declare her inability to proceed. At such
times, while Mrs. Livermore sat by her to encourage
and comfort her, I would hasten on a little way
and then return, to assure them that the path
before us was much better than what we had already
travelled, and so encouraged and a little rested
she would face the inevitable and press on once
more.

We would frequently come to ditches or
gullies five or six feet wide, and as many in
depth. In such emergencies, the man who
accompanied us would bring a rail from a
nearby fence to form a slender bridge which we
would cross by clasping hands — the man at the head
of the chain, and sidle across. I do not remember
how many such bridges we traversed. Sometimes we
would have to climb a steep bank — pulling ourselves

up by the vines and bushes growing there. At one
place I found I had assisted myself by clinging to
the vine of the poison oak as it is called in Virginia
— better known here as ivy, but luckily I experienced
no ill effects from it.

We were thankful enough
when we came in sight of Moores Creek — the last
obstacle between us and Charlottesville — and a
mud be-spattered, dilapidated looking crowd
we were. They had constructed a ferry across the
Creek, so we crossed easily to the Charlottesville side.
A man was waiting there with a rough wagon, who
wanted to take us into town, and my companions
were in favor of employing him, but I said most
emphatically "No! We have had a hard journey so
far, and will finish it in comfort." and seeing
a colored boy who belonged to our schools loitering
about there I sent him to town for a carriage "the
best one in town" was the order. I then took my
tired friends to the house of a colored woman I
knew to await its arrival. She made Mrs. Lewis
lie down, while she prepared tea for us, and did all
she could for our comfort. By the time the carriage
arrived, all were much refreshed, and in a better

condition to finish our journey. As we rode through
the principal street of the town we passed two of the
gentlemen who had lodged in the house with us at
Shadwell. They recognized us and raised their hats
and Mrs. Lewis expressed her gratitude that I did not
consent to taking the shabby vehicle we saw at the
Creek. She had not supposed that Charlottesville was
so large and important a place.

When we reached
my Virginia home, I had Miss Gardners bed chamber
put in order for Mrs. Lewis and her little boy, as Miss G.
had not arrived and I knew she could not reach
the place until the roads were passable. A bed was
made each night on the couch in my sitting
room for Mrs. Livermore. They remained my
guests for a week, when learning that a freight
train was about to try to pass down their line, they
decided to get passage on it if possible. Chairs were
carried out to the junction of the two roads near
the school house, and there they sat with their few
belongings about them for hours, not daring to leave
for fear the train would come along, and knowing
it would only wait to change the switch. It finally
came, and they were helped into a car and rode on

as we afterwards learned, into greater hardships and
more difficulties than they had experienced before.
Sometimes they rode on hand cars, and sometimes
they had to walk for miles between conveyences. The
money I loaned them purchased food and paid
for lodgings here and there. People were kind to them
seeing their pitiful condition, and after several days
of this uncomfortable pilgrimage, they they reached
Mrs. Lewis home in Tennessee. I heard from them as
soon as they could possibly write me, and they returned
the ten dollars promptly. Miss Gardner arrived the
day they left. One of my trunks reached me in about
a week, and the other some days later. I considered
myself fortunate to get them at all. This storm was
always spoken of afterwards by the colored people
as the time of the "great fresh," meaning freshet.