 | Sketches in North America and the Oregon Territory |  |
SKETCH OF THE JOURNEY
ACROSS THE
CONTINENT OF NORTH AMERICA
FROM
CANADA TO THE OREGON TERRITORY AND PACIFIC OCEAN.
In woods required, where strained eye was keen
As eagle's of the wilderness to scan
His path, by mountain, swamp, or deep ravine,
Or ken far friendly huts on good saanns green."
Campbell.
I left Montreal on the 5th May, 1845, in company with Sir G. Simpson,
the Governor of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, Lieutenant
V—, an Officer of the Royal Engineers, and several gentlemen connected
with the Hudson's Bay Company, who were proceeding to their
respective stations in the territory belonging to the Fur Company, to
which Sir George Simpson was about to make his annual tour of
inspection.
We embarked in two large canoes, made of the bark of the white
birch tree, and paddled by fifteen Canadian and Indian "voyageurs,"
whose merry voices made the forests re-echo with their "chansons."
Our route, in the first instance, was by the Ottawa river, which we
ascended to its junction with the Matawa river, from which we crossed
the height of land dividing the tributaries of the Ottawa from lake
Huron; costed along the Northern shore of this lake, through lake
Superior to the river Kamanis-taquoih, at the North-Western extremity;
ascended this river, through the lake of the Woods, Rainy lake, &c.;
down the river Winipeg, across the Southern end of lake Winipeg
to Red river, and arrived at Fort Garry (vide sketch No. 1), the principal
establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company, on the 7th June, having
accomplished a distance of 2300 miles in one month, notwithstanding
the numerous impediments arising from falls and rapids in the different
rivers, round which we were obliged to transport the canoes, provisions,
&c., on men's shoulders.
The country, through which we have passed, varies but little in its
general features. The Northern shores of lakes Huron and Superior are
bold and rocky, thinly covered with pine timber; which, of a greater or
less size, also covers the banks of the rivers. The land generally is
nearly valueless for cultivation; but the shores of these lakes are said to
be rich in minerals, particularly copper and silver. The citizens of the
United States have worked the veins of copper with great success on
the South shore of lake Superior. They find the ore in great abundance,
near the surface, and of excellent quality and pureness.
Westward of lake Superior, a greater variety of trees shews a
decided improvement in the nature of the soil; but the country is very
flat, liable to floods, and intersected by a succession of lakes of great
magnitude, but usually studded with innumerable rocky islands, rendering
it difficult, in the imperfect surveys of the country, to define their
proper limits.
The shores of lake Superior are bold and picturesque, frequently
presenting perpendicular scarps of 2 or 300 feet of basaltic formation.
The forests are often very beautiful, but very dense, on the banks of the
rivers, which causes great difficulty in transporting the canoes, &c.,
where it is necessary to make what is usually termed a "portage," and
frequently occurs when falls or rapids interrupt the free navigation, or
when necessary to carry the canoe from one river or lake to another.
The rivers are impeded by innumerable rapids and falls, many of
which are extremely grand and picturesque. That of the Kamanis-taquoih,
which I have selected in the accompanying series of sketches, is
particularly beautiful, tumbling in awful grandeur over a ledge of rock
170 feet in depth into a narrow gorge, the silent forest alone re-echoing
the roar of the cataract. (Vide sketch No. 2.)
Between Canada and Red river, the native Indians are reduced, by
sickness and other causes, to less than one-third of their former numbers;
they are dependent for their supplies of food and clothing on the several
trading establishments of the Hudson's Bay Company, who afford protection
to the miserable remnants of these once powerful tribes. We
traversed their country unmoested, and without even a thought of the
possibility that their cupidity might overcome their natural awe of the
white man.
Elk, bears, lynx, wolves, foxes of every color, beaver, sable, martins
numerous in this part of the country.
The aborigines entrapped the elk for food, and hunted the bear as
proof of their prowess and to obtain the skin, which they wear during
the winter months.
When the white trader appeared, the improvident Indian assisted
to destroy the animals on which he had depended; no sooner was this
effected than he found himself not only deprived of his former means
of existence, but dependant upon those who had introduced luxuries
hitherto unknown, and created new wants, the possession of which he
was now no longer able to obtain.
In less than half a century not only have the herds of wild animals
disappeared, but wars, consequent upon the opposition of rival traders.
and disease, have reduced the once noble Indian to a degraded "dram
drinking" savage, willing to barter all that man holds most dear, even
to the chastity of his "squaw," for the much loved "fire water," as they
call spirits.
The settlement of Red river contains about 5000 inhabitants,
is navigable for large boats from lake Winipeg to Fort Garry, the principal
establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company, situated at the junction
of the Assiniboine river.
The most numerous class of "habitans" are the hardy native
hunters and voyageurs, born of native women, and usually called "half
breeds." They are but little addicted to agriculture, and spend hours,
during the long winter of this inelement region, in smoking, dancing,
and gambling.
The Scotch and their descendants are the most respectable and the
most industrious of the settlers, and grow more than sufficient wheat,
&c., for their own consumption; the surplus is sold to the Company,
to supply their trading posts throughout the country.
The soil on the banks of the river is productive in wheat, barley,
&c.; but the country generally is flat and swampy, offering little to
attract the eye, or tempt the industry, of even the most persevering
husbandman. It is not my intention minutely to describe this settlement,
so ably noticed by Sir George Simpson and his late nephew,
Mr. Simpson, in their clever and interesting works on this country. I
must haste my departure from our very hospitable hosts at Fort Garry,
and continue our journey across the vast undulating prairies, and over
the magnificent range of lofty mountains (forming the back bone of
America), to the Pacific Ocean.
Every arrangement having been completed by the 16th of June,
Lieut, V— and myself, accompanied by Mr. Ogden, a chief trader in
the Company, Mr. Lane, a clerk, and twelve men, selected from the
hardy class of half breeds and Canadians, commenced our arduous
journey on horseback, nor did we reach fort Colville, on the Columbia
river, a distance of nearly 1600 miles, till the 12th of August. Want of
space, unfortunately, will prevent my entering into the various details
of this journey, the difficulties of which can readily be imagined, when
it is understood that our luggage and provisions were conveyed nearly
the whole distance on horseback, and that we were constantly surrounded
by savage Indians, who own no submission, save to the superior strength
or prowess of the party they encounter. Our daily journeys commenced
with the early morn—a compass our only guide! and ended where a
sufficient supply of wood and water could be obtained to prepare our
frugal meal—a tent our only covering!!
Between the Red river and the Rocky mountains, the country pre-
frequented by vast herds of buffaloe, who migrate during the seasons North
and South, and afford food and subsistence to large tribes of Indians,
who follow their migrations, and wage constant war on each other, or on
the white traders. Unlike the Indians of the more civilized country,
East of Red river, these tribes yield submission to no one, their proximity
to the frontier of the United States affording them protection, of which
they are cunning enough to avail themselves, should the British trader
attempt to retaliate for injuries and robberies effected. They are abundantly
supplied with horses, which they purchase, steal, and obtain by
various means, from the more Southern tribes! I can imagine nothing
more picturesque and more perfectly graceful than a Blackfoot Indian
in his war costume, decorated with paint and feathers, floating wildly in
the wind, as he caracolles on his small, but wonderfully active barb, in
the full confidence of his glorious liberty. War, his occupation; and the
scarcely less hazardous and exciting chase of the buffaloe, his amusement.
(Vide sketches Nos. 3 and 4.)
The excitement attendant upon hunting the buffaloe must be
enjoyed to be appreciated. Over hill and dale you follow on horseback,
at full speed, these enormous unwieldy looking animals, and fire only
when sufficiently near to be certain of your mark.
Bears, wolves, foxes, and various kinds of carnivorous animals,
accompany the herds of buffaloe, living upon their carcasses, when the
ball of the hunter or other accident destroys these monsters of the
prairies; while numbers of eagles, vultures and buzzards, float through
the atmosphere, ready to assist at the demolition of the carcase.
Elk and antelope abound in many parts of the plains; the latter
graceful little animal often fall victims to their curiosity, their fleetness
rendering it almost an impossibility, except by stratagem, to bring
them within range of the rifle. In order to effect this, the hunter
must be concealed by some inequality of the ground, and holding a
small bright colored flag or handkerchief in the air, wave it to and fro.
The antelope will gradually approach, and thus falls an easy prey.
The Hudson's Bay Company have several small forts or trading
posts (built of wood and surrounded by strong palisading, having blockhouses
armed with small cannon at the angles). We called at three of
these posts, between Red River and the Rocky Mountains, in order to
exchange our horses.
At each of these stations large droves of horses are kept, concealed
as much as possible from the Indians.
From fort Edmonton, on the Saskatchawan river, we took a more
Southern course, through the heart of the Blackfoot country (our most
formidable enemies), in order to reach a pass in the Rocky Mountains,
which afforded the easiest and most practicable passage. (Vide sketch
No. 5.)
We were often on the qui vive, from false alarms about hostile
Indians, but by the precautions taken, we escaped without any actual
encounter.
On the morning of the third or fourth day after leaving fort Edmonton,
our guide discovered that Indians were in our path, and as it is
usual in this country to consider all as enemies till they prove friends, we
galloped forward, leaving a few men to protect the baggage, and a large
tribe of Indians, drawn up to resist our attack. As they were accompanied
by their women and children (certain sign that they were not a "war
party"), we held a "talk," and discovered, to our satisfaction, that they
belonged to the tribe of "Crees," who have always been friendly to the
white traders. Distributing some few presents of tobacco, beads, &c.
among them, we continued our journey; nor was it till the following
year that we heard the sad fate of these harmless people, who on the
day after we parted with them, encountered a "war party" of Blackfoot
Indians, who had been following our party, to endeavour to steal our
horses. The Blackfeet attacked these Indians, killed several of the men,
and took the women and children prisoners, leaving but few to tell
the tale!
Our passage over the magnificent range of lofty mountains was
not accomplished without much difficulty, and at a fearful sacrifice
of the noble animals that aided us in the transport. (Vide sketches
Nos. 6 and 7.) We left fort Edmonton with sixty horses; on our
arrival at fort Colville, on the Columbia river, we had only twenty-seven,
and several of these were so exhausted, they could not have continued
many more days. The steepness of the mountain passes, the want of
proper nourishment, the fearful falls that some of these animals sustained,
rolling in some instances many hundred feet into the foaming torrent
beneath, combined to cause this great loss. The scenery was grand in
the extreme; similar in form to the Alps of Switzerland, you felt that
you were in the midst of desolation: no habitations, save those of the
wild Indians, were within hundreds of miles; but few civilized beings
had ever even viewed this.
The heat during the day was very great; but the nights were often
very cold, as we ascended to the level of the perpetual snow. The stings
and bites of the mosquitoes and flies were painful to a degree; it is
impossible to describe the irritation and positive agony caused by the
perseverance of these venomous little insects.
The mountains are said to be very rich in minerals, but our rapid
transit would not admit of a very close examination. I saw specimens
of copper, lead, and of that which had all the appearance of silver, giving
proof of the abundance of these metals; I broke off a small piece of
mica slate which was completely studded with small garnets.
The country on the West of the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific
Ocean may be divided into three distinct sections; that near the base of
the Rocky Mountains being very much broken by lofty ranges of
mountains, partially covered with pine trees, and containing, in the rich
alluvial valleys, great varieties of fine trees.
The adjoining section, extending for 4 or 500 miles to another
range of mountains, parallel with the sea coast and distant from it
about 150 miles, is perfectly dennded of timber, and the face of the
country presents an uninterrupted range of sandy desert, on which even
the wild animals cannot exist, and bearing very recent traces of volcanie
action.
The third or sea coast section contains as fine land and larger trees
than any country in the world, and has been settled within the last five
years by enterprising citizens of the United States, who have braved the
dangers of the transport across the desert, at a fearful sacrifice of life
and property, and are now cultivating farms of great richness and
beauty, bordering on the Pacific Ocean.
From fort Colville my party descended the Columbia river in boats,
to the Pacific Ocean, a distance of 700 miles, which we reached on
the 25th August, having in less than four months traversed the whole
continent of North America. (Vide sketches Nos. 8, 9, 10 and 11.)
During the winter's residence in the Oregan Territory and on the
coast of the Pacific Ocean, we employed ourselves in visiting all the
accessible parts of the country. Having obtained horses from the
Hudson's Bay Company, we crossed the forest and prairie land between
the Columbia river and Puget's Sound, on the North. Hiring canoes
from the native tribes, we coasted through this beautiful inland sea, and
traversed the Straits of St. Juan de Fuca to Vancouver's Island, on
which the Hudson's Bay Company have lately established a trading
post, where their vessels, which are annually dispatched from England
with stores, &c. to carry on the trade with the Indians, will in future
land their cargoes, and receive in return the valuable peltries.
To the South of the Columbia we visited the American settlement
on the banks of the river Willamette (of which I shall hereafter give a
rapid sketch), and extended our tour through this beautiful undulating.
fertile country to the borders of North California, examining in our
course the great channels of communication which in the present
untrodden state of the country are almost exclusively confined to the
numerous navigable streams and rivers, or exploring the depths of the
magnificent forests on their banks.
On the occasion of our visit to Vancouver's Island we were most
fortunate in meeting Her Majesty's ships "America," 50, Capt. Hon.
C. Gordon, and the "Modeste," 18, Capt. T. Baillie, by whom we were
most kindly and hospitably received. The "Modeste" subsequently
entered the Columbia, and "wintered" opposite fort Vancouver (vide
sketch No. 9), the principal establishment of the Hudson's Bay Company
West of the Rocky Mountains, situated 110 miles from the mouth of
the river.
The friendship and hospitality shewn to Lieut. V— and myself,
by Capt. Baillie and his officers, during our long residence in this
distant land, is still remembered by me with feelings of the liveliest
gratitude, and I cannot resist returning them my heartfelt thanks for the
many happy days passed in their society and on board their ship. To
the gentlemen connected with the Hon. Hudson's Bay Company, I must
also be permitted to offer my acknowledgments, for the facilities they
afforded us in travelling about the country; and we were most cordially
welcomed to the wooden walls of fort Vancouver, when obliged to seek
shelter from the perpetual rain, which commenced in November and
continued with little intermission till the following March.
I have already mentioned that the country West of the Rocky
Mountains may be divided into three natural and distinct sections. I
have nothing further to remark upon that portion situated near the
base of the mountains, which is too remote for present civilization,
although possessing soil capable of cultivation, and great mineral
wealth. Still less can be said in favor of that intermediate portion
forming the centre of the Territory, where the barrenness of the soil,
the total absence of wood and water, completely exclude all hope of
its ever being adapted to the wants of man! But that fertile section,
divided from this barren desert by a range of lofty mountains, running
parallel to, and at a distance of, 150 miles from the Pacific Ocean,
deserves more particular notice, as it promises ere long to add another
to the already formidable union of states, and to give the federal government
of the United States a command in the Pacific Ocean which may
eventually threaten our possessions, not only in the China Seas, but
even in India, should the cupidity of our Transatlantic brethren attract
them to these countries.
Neither England or any other country within the same degrees of
above the average heat in summer, but in winter the cold is seldom
more severe than in the Southern part of our own country.
Wheat, barley, rye, oats, peas, beans, potatoes, and all kinds of
vegetables, are cultivated with facility, and yield a vast return even in
the present rude state of agriculture; whilst the numberless small
prairies, perfectly denuded of timber, but surrounded by belts of beautiful
trees of every variety, offer advantages, but rarely found, to early
settlers, whose health and spirits are usually broken in the first cultivation
of land, by the difficulties they encounter in cutting down the trees,
and preparing the ground for receiving the grain.
Whether we regard the enormous size of the timber (I have seen
an hundred trees together whose average girth is from twenty-five to
thirty feet), the magnificence of the rivers, the height and beauty of
the distant mountains—capped with perpetual snow—or the luxuriance
of the undulating country at their base, we have a prospect as wonderful
for the growth of its productions as for the beauty of its scenery.
Animals of all kinds propagate their species with amazing fecundity.
But twenty or twenty-five years ago, the arrival of a horse at fort
George, at the mouth of the Columbia river, attracted thousands of
Indians from the surrounding country, to witness the extraordinary
phenomenon. At the present moment individual Indians possess upwards
of 1000, and the vast prairies in the interior are overrun with
horses become perfectly wild.
Cattle and sheep, in the same manner, were brought in the first
instance from California, and the former are now running wild through
the woods.
The fisheries are most abundant: salmon and sturgeon are, in
the seasons, the most numerous and most sought after; but every little
stream abounds with trout and other fish. The Indians spear and net
the salmon and sturgeon in the summer, which they smoke and preserve
for the winter's consumption.
In the year 1829 three or four Canadians, retired servants of the
Hudson's Bay Company, settled on the banks of the river Willamette,
near the beautiful falls, where there is now, in 1846, a flourishing village
(vide sketches Nos. 12 and 13), with two churches, and 100 houses, store
houses, &c. all of which have been built within five years. The first
American immigration poured into the country in 1840. Having with
infinite labour and great loss, both of human and animal life, traversed
the Rocky Mountains, and crossed the vast sandy desert, they arrived
in the country at the commencement of the winter season, without
provision or covering of any description; they threw themselves on the
hospitality of the Hudson's Bay Company's agents, who most kindly
relieved their immediate wants, and afforded them every assistance
towards their future settlement. This immigration was followed in the
succeeding years by still more numerous bands of Western backwoodsmen,
who settled themselves in this luxuriant valley, and established a
form of government similar to that of the Western territories of the United
States. The Hudson's Bay Company were so completely overruled by
the number of Americans, that they were obliged to join in this compact,
which neutralized their authority in the country where they had been
long respected by the native tribes, and obliged them to subscribe to
the laws of the very people whose settlement and occupation of the land
they contributed so generously and largely to effect.
The Columbia river takes its rise in the Rocky Mountains, is upwards
of 1000 miles in length, and falls into the Pacific Ocean in latitude 45.30.
The river is navigable for about 100 miles for vessels of large tonnage,
but the entrance is obstructed by a bar, through which the channel is
very tortuous, and renders the navigation extremely dangerous. (Vide
sketch, No. 14, Cape Disappointment.)
Fort George (vide sketches Nos. 14 and 15) is situated on the South
bank of the river, about twelve miles from its mouth. On the spot
where the present fort is situated was formerly built "Astoria," of which
Mr. Washington Irving has written so interesting an account.
On the banks of the Cowelitz river is situated a very flourishing
farm and settlement belonging to the Hudson's Bay Company, who in
1841 transported, free of expense, as many of their settlers at Red
River as could be induced to migrate to this distant land. The
position of these farms, situated in plains, extending for miles along the
river bank, and surrounded by the lofty mountains running parallel to
the sea coast, is very beautiful; but the soil is not very rich, and the
want of fresh water is a serious evil.
Puget's Sound, forming a continuation of the straits Juan de Fuca,
is a beautiful inland sea, the immediate banks of which offer many
advantageous sites for settlement; they rise gradually in the rear till
they become lofty mountains, many of which are capped with perpetual
snow.
The harbours on the South shore of the straits Juan de Fuca are
very fine, and would afford protection to any number of vessels; but they
are, as is the case on every part of the coast, very imperfectly supplied
with fresh water. The various channels or "canals," (as they are usually
called), dividing Vancouver's Island from the main shore, are of so
difficult access, on account of the strength of the tides and force of the
currents, that they are almost useless for purposes of navigation.
Vancouver's is a beautiful island, 250 miles long, by about 50 in
country is varied, and has many advantageous points for settlement and
cultivation; but the soil is very scant, and the rock approaches so near
the surface, that with the exception of some of the alluvial valleys,
which are of no great extent, I doubt whether the island can ever be
brought into a high state of cultivation. The climate is very similar to
that of England, but hotter during the summer months. There is also
a great scarcity of fresh water on the island.
The Indian population of the whole of this territory West of the
wars between neighbouring tribes, that they are no longer formidable to
the white trader. They may be classed in two divisions: those of the
sea coast and of the interior. The former are the most numerous; they
subsist chiefly on salmon and sturgeon, which swarm the rivers in
incredible numbers during certain seasons; their houses or huts are
very dirty, and their personal appearance is not prepossessing; their
foreheads are flattened in their youth, till the head has the appearance
of a wedge; they will sell or exchange everything they possess for rum
or spirits, and are a cowardly, thievish, cunning race. The women are
more industrious than the men, and manufacture a very durable kind of
blanket, from the wool of the mountain goats and a peculiar breed of
white dogs which infest their "wigwams;" they also make very useful
mats and baskets from the wild rushes, and bark of cedar.
The Indians of the interior are a much finer race of beings than
their brethren of the sea coast. Accustomed to make long journeys
upon horseback, they rove about the country, living upon buffaloe or
other wild animals, and fighting with their neighbours in the endeavour
to steal their horses. They are always at war. You meet them as
enemies, and with this understanding the weaker party will always avoid
a stronger, unless they are tempted by their stealing propensities to
endeavour, under cover of darkness, to gain by stealth that which they
dare not take by force. We had several casual encounters with the
Indian tribes, but being continually on our guard, we escaped with the
loss only of one or two horses.
The Indians of the sea coast bury their chiefs in their canoes, with
all the articles they possessed, when living, for their domestic purposes,
suspended to their graves.
The tomb (vide sketch No. 9) from which I have taken the sketch,
was most picturesquely situated on the banks of the river Cowelitz. The
Indian died in the prime of life, and on his death bed declared, in
obedience to the frightful superstitions of his ignorant race, that a chief
of a neighbouring tribe had caused his death, and desired his relatives
to be revenged! His two brothers, immediately on his decease, went
in search of this chief, killed him, and having burnt his body, brought
the ashes and deposited them in the tomb; they then slaughtered their
brother's favorite horse, destroyed his blankets, &c. which are hung in
tatters over the grave, and nailed the tin pans, &c. to the sides of the
canoe, which had been perforated in several places to prevent the possibility
of its being again made use of. These marks of ceremony are
to do honor to the deceased, and to ensure his comfort in the world to
come.
The passage of the Rocky Mountains was not considered practicable
country lying at their base, which would render it impossible to transport
the baggage, provisions, &c., sufficient for our party, for so great a
distance over the frozen surface. We were, therefore, obliged to delay
our departure on our homeward journey till the end of March, which
would allow time for the ascent of the Columbia river, and enable us
to reach the boat encampment, from whence, we were to commence the
ascent of the mountains, at the proper season.
The festive seasons at Christmas and New Year were not unregarded
in this distant land. The officers of H. M. S. Modeste contributed
largely to promote feelings of friendship between the settlers from the
United States and the subjects of Great Britain; and they were ably
supported by the agents of the Hudson's Bay Company, whose families
joined in the merry dance, and reciprocated the dinners which were given
on board the ship. The deck was fitted up as a theatre, and many plays
and farces were most inimitably performed by the sailors, among whom
were some capital actors.
Hunting with the "lasso" the wild cattle, which are very numerous
on many of the adjoining plains, was a constant amusement, and
not unattended with personal danger; these animals are extremely
fierce, and often became the attacking party, in which case we were
obliged to trust to the speed and activity of our horses.
The wild fowl and snipe shooting was also very good. The number
of swans, geese, ducks, widgeon of every variety, were incredible; but
the lakes, on which these birds congregated, are very large, rendering
them difficult to approach.
On the 25th March, we took leave of our many kind and hospitable
Bay Company's servants, whose term of servitude had expired, and who
were desirous of returning to their native land, increased our party to
about thirty; we were distributed in two large boats, laden with every
variety of store for the Indian trade of the interior country, which we
deposited at the different forts or trading posts we passed, in the ascent
of the river.
The ascent of the rapid current of the Columbia was very tedious;
we could seldom average more than 25 or 30 miles a day; and often,
where the river was more than usually impeded with falls and rapids, we
could not even accomplish this distance.
We reached "Les Dalles" on the 29th, a distance of 80 miles from
fort Vancouver, having made the "portage" of the beautiful falls 49
miles below, call the "Cascades." At the point called "Les Dalles,"
the river has been obstructed in its approach to the sea, by a broad
strata of basaltic rock, rising nearly 100 feet above the usual level of the
ground, through which the water has forced a narrow passage of nearly a
mile in length, and not more than 100 feet in breadth. During the
Spring season, when the snow melting on the mountains increases the
quantity of water, this magnificent river is kept back till it is said to
rise above 60 feet, forming itself into a large lake above the barrier,
and forcing itself through the narrow gorge with a terrific force. The
view of Mount Hood (vide sketches Nos. 17 and 18) from this point is
very beautiful, rising to a height of nearly 16,000 feet, and covered
with its dazzling mantle of perpetual snow.
We arrived at fort Walla Walla, a distance of 200 miles, on the 3rd
April, and here obtained horses to ride across the country to fort
Colville, leaving the boats to continue their more circuitous course by
the river to the same point, about 450 miles. The direct route to fort
Colville is about 250 miles, 200 of which are through a barren sandy
desert, comparable only with the Great Sahara in Africa, during the
passage of which we could hardly find sufficient wood or water to supply
our most ordinary wants, or sufficient nourishment to afford a scanty
meal to our half famished horses. The country is intersected by deep
ravines, scarped with perpendicular basaltic rock, which obliged us to
make very long detours before we could find a point that afforded even
a dangerous crossing. In many instances these ravines formed the bed
of a rapid river, which only increased our desire for water, which, within
view, was the more tempting, from being unattainable. The whole
region presents most interesting and peculiar features to a geologist;
has evidently been subject to extraordinary volcanic action, and great
convulsions of nature, by which the channel of the Columbia river has been
diverted from its course, the original bed remaining barricaded by rocks,
which have been thrown across the entrance, and have converted it into a dry
level ravine, called "La Grande Coulée." The Peloos river has an early
subterranean course through one of these deep ravines, leaping from one
surface of the land to another, till it gains the level of the Columbia by
a perpendicular fall of 200 feet, into a circular basin of basaltic rock,
forming one of the most perfect and beautiful specimens of the basaltic
formation I have ever seen. The beauty of the scene is very feebly
described in the accompanying sketch. (Vide sketch No. 19.)
At fort Colville we again embarked in boats to ascend the Upper
Columbia river to the Boat Encampment, a distance of 250 miles. We
abandoned the boats at this point, and commenced, on foot, the ascent
of the Rocky Mountains.
We had for many days been surrounded by magnificent mountains,
and had passed through such a beautiful country, that the effect of this
grand and solitary scene (vide sketch of the Rocky Mountains, No. 20)
was partially destroyed, by the sublimity of that which had preceded it.
The mountains are about 10,000 feet in height, unequalled in any part
of Switzerland for the ruggedness of their peaks and beauty of form,
capped and dazzling in their white mantle of snow.
Our pedestrian labors now commenced. For three days we continued
the ascent of the valley of the Canoe river, wading twenty
times in the course of each day through this mountain torrent, landing
on the snow, which covered the whole country, and over the half thawed
surface of which, we dragged the heavy lumbering, but well adapted, shoe,
that prevented our being submerged at every step; at night we formed
our couch on the snow, without an opportunity being afforded to us of
drying our saturated garments, or being able to pitch our tent to guard
against the cold. On the fourth day we ascended the "Grande Côte"
to the height of land on which are situated two small lakes, from
whence flow two rivers, the waters of which fall into different oceans—the
Columbia into the Pacific, and the Atthabasca into the Frozen ocean.
The fatigue of mounting nearly 5000 feet on the soft snow, which sank,
even with the snow shoes, nearly to the knees at every step, can hardly
be conceived. We were obliged to follow one another in file, and
relieve the leading file every ten minutes, by which means the road was
formed for the carriers, whose endurance, under their heavy burdens,
was wonderful.
We were now in the very heart of the mountains, which rose several
thousand feet on every side of us. "Avalanches" of snow and rock were
detached under the influence of the mid-day sun, and rolled across o
path into the valley beneath, threatening to engulph us in their overwhelming
course.
At the Boat Encampment the provision of dried meat had been
divided; each man carried his own share in addition to his regular
burden. From want of forethought, and dislike to additional weight, they
had not taken sufficient, and their provisions began to fail. We were
not fortunate enough to kill a mountain sheep or goat, or even an elk,
whose traces were very apparent in the snow, and some of which usually
fall victims to the skill of the hunters. On this the men relied; and we
found ourselves in the unenviable position of being obliged to share our
last meal with the hungry men, whose strength also began to fail under
the excessive exertion, without sufficient nourishment. On the 7th day
our provisions were completely exhausted; having divided our last mouthful,
I started forward with two men, to make our way to Jaspar's house,
a small station of the Hudson's Bay Company on the Atthabasca river,
and distant about 60 miles. We had, however, scarcely walked 10
miles, when the joyful sound of human voices assured us of more immediate
relief, and we soon encountered a party of men who had been sent
to meet us, with provisions, accompanied by Le Pre de Smit, a jesuit
priest from Belgium, and chief of the Roman Catholic missionaries in
the Columbia district, who was on his return to that part of Oregon.
He had attempted during the winter to visit the Blackfoot Indians, but
had failed, and very nearly fell a victim to his temerity and zeal. The
horses had been left some distance below, not being able to get through
the snow; but several sledges drawn by dogs were laden with pemican
and other provisions, on which our men made a most abundant meal.
Our letters had also been forwarded by this express; and although
the melancholy account of the death of my poor uncle and general,
Sir R. Downes Jackson, the Commander of the Forces in British North
America, threw a gloom over my otherwise satisfactory correspondence,
I could not but feel thankful that he was the only one of those who
are near and dear to me who had died during the twelve months we had
been shut out from receiving any intelligence.
In four days we reached Jasper's house, and left the horses, to
embark in boats to descend the Atthabasca river, the current of which
was so rapid that in two days and a half we reached fort Assiniboine,
a distance of nearly 400 miles. Here we again took horses to travel
overland to fort Edmonton, on the Saskatchawan river (about 100
miles), which we accomplished in less than three days; many of the men
were becoming knocked up by such constant exposure and hard work;
we therefore obtained a fresh crew at fort Edmonton, and embarked on
the Saskatchawan river, which we descended to fort Carlton, a distance
of about 500 miles. Here we again took horses to ride across the
prairies to Red River (about 450 miles), which we accomplished in ten
days, the weather being wet, cold, and disagreeable. We arrived at fort
Garry on the 7th June, in seventy-three days from the time we left
Vancouver. We have in this time completed a journey of 2500 miles,
notwithstanding the various means of conveyance and innumerable
obstacles we had to encounter.
The Indians on the Columbia river are generally a quiet, inoffensive
the constant wars that are waged upon them by their more powerful
neighbours on the adjoining prairies, who wander about, without any
fixed place of residence. Such are the Blackfoot, the Snake, the
Cayeuse, and other very large tribes, who always appear to be at war
with their fellow creatures. These tribes occupy vast tracts of country
on either side of the mountains. The Assiniboines and Cree Indians
are also powerful tribes on the Saskatchawan river, but live in constant
fear of their neighbours, the Blackfeet.
We encountered about 5000 Assiniboine and Cree Indians encamped,
in three separate villages, on the banks of the Saskatchawan
river. On the day we visited them they had lost three of their
"braves" in an encounter with Blackfeet, who had surrounded the
camps, to attack any of their opponents who ventured in search of
game.
We also but narrowly escaped falling their victims, the Blackfeet
having surrounded our boat at night to the number of seventy or eighty.
We were fortunately aroused from our sleep by our watchful steersman,
who alone remained awake to guide the boat, which we had allowed
to float down the river to save the delay that occurs by encamping on
the shore. We were all sleeping upon our ready loaded guns, and
quickly were prepared for defence; but so soon as these savages found
that they were discovered, they decamped, not relishing a warm reception
from the guns "that fire twice."
The banks of the Saskatchawan were covered with buffaloe, elk,
and antelope, with their attendant wolves, bears, and carnivorous beasts
and birds of every kind.
We fared most sumptuously on the flesh of the buffaloe and upon
numberless good things that Mr. Rowand had supplied us with at fort
River, and were restrained from shooting more than was sufficient to
supply our party by the utter worthlessness of the animal when killed.
Bears, dear, antelope and wild fowl of all kinds fell victims to our
chasse, and added to our more than usually abundant repasts.
Sir George Simpson arrived from Canada on the afternoon of the
7th June, bringing us letters and news from the civilized world to
the beginning of May.
We remained at fort Garry a few days to recruit our weary frames,
and then embarked in the Governor's canoe, and descended with all
possible dispatch by the same route that we last year ascended, through
Lake Superior to the South St. Marie, where we embarked on board an
American steamer and continued our voyage through lakes Huron,
Eri and Ontario, down the St. Lawrence to Montreal, where we arrived
on the 20th July, after an absence of more than 14 months.
I paid a passing visit to the beautiful falls of Niagara, which
appear more splendid the oftener you revisit them.
On the 30th July I left Montreal, crossed the St. Lawrence river
by steamer to La Prairie, from thence by railway to St. John's, through
lake Champlain, in the lake steamer "Burlington," to Whitehall; by
coach to the baths of Saratoga, thence by rail to Albany and Boston,
through the beautiful New England states, which contrasted strangely
in their cultivation with the wild lands through which I had lately
passed.
At Boston I embarked in the Royal Mail Company's steamer.
"Cambria," Capt. Judkins, and sailed for England on the 1st August.
After a delightful passage, calling at Halifax en route, we arrived at
Liverpool on the 12th August, having made one of the fastest passages
then on record between the Old and New World.
FORT CARRY
HERRY WARR DEL
KINSON & CO
FALLS OF THE KAMANIS TAQUOIN RIVER.
HERRY WARR DEL.
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BUFFALO HUNTING ON THE W. PRAIRIES
FORCING A PASSAGE THROUCH THE BURNING PRAIRIE
H.J.WARRE DEL
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DISTANT VIEW OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
H.J.WARRE DEL
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THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
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SOURCE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER
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FORT VANCOUVER
INDIAN TOMB
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MOUNT BAKER
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CAP DISAPPOINTMENT
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VALLEY OF THE WILLAMETTE RIVER
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THE AMERICAN VILLAGE
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FORT CEORCE
FORMERLY ASTORIA
M CILLIVRAY OR KOOTOONAI RIVER
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LES DALLES COLUMBIA RIVER
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MOUNT HOOD FROM LES DALLES
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MOUNT HOOD
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FALL OF THE PELOOS RIVER
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THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS FROM THE COLUMBIA RIVER LOOKING N.W.
HENRY J. WARRE DEL.
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