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To Cuba and back.

A vacation voyage.
  
  
  
CONTENTS.

 I. 
 II. 
 III. 
 IV. 
 V. 
 VI. 
 VII. 
 VIII. 
 IX. 
 X. 
 XI. 
 XII. 
 XIII. 
 XIV. 
 XV. 
 XVI. 
 XVII. 
 XVIII. 
 XIX. 
 XX. 
 XXI. 
 XXII. 
expand sectionXXIII. 
 XXIV. 
 XXV. 



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CONTENTS.

                           

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CHAPTER I. 
Departure from New York. Steamship Cahawba. First
day 
CHAPTER II. 
Hatteras. Gulf Stream. Coast of Florida. Routine of
Steamer 
16 
CHAPTER III. 
The passengers. Warm weather. Coast of Cuba. Pan
of Matanzas. First view of Havana, from the sea.
Night off Havana 
24 
CHAPTER IV. 
Enter Havana, at sunrise. Harbor. Shipping. Landing.
Drive through streets of Havana. Hotel 
29 
CHAPTER V. 
Cuban hotel, and its landlord, rooms, servants, and guests.
Breakfast. Fresh fruits. Houses and counting-rooms
of merchants and bankers. Dr. Howe and Mr. Parker.
Dinner. Opera troupe. Speech of the Cubans. Afternoon
on the Paseo. Retreta at the Plaza de Armas.
Havana by night 
39 
CHAPTER VI. 
Early morning in the city. The Chain-Gang. Soldiers.
Baños de Mar. The Cathedral. Mass. Tomb of Columbus 
51 
CHAPTER VII. 
Gold and silver. Coinage. Family breakfasts. Coolies. 
Jesus del Monte. View of city and harbor from Jesus
del Monte. Taste for proper names of towns,
shops, &c. Opera at the Villanueva, the boxes, ladies,
Captain-General, soldiers 
60 
CHAPTER VIII. 
A mascara. Spanish troops. Sunday in Havana. Dinner
at the Bishop's. Interest in the Thirty Millions
Bill. Visits at evening 
74 
CHAPTER IX. 
The Belen. The Jesuit college, brethren, and pupils.
The Order of Jesuits 
82 
CHAPTER X. 
Steamer for Matanzas. Harbor and water by night. Matanzas.
Coolies. Gabriel de la Concepcion Valdez. 
94 
CHAPTER XI. 
Railroad from Matanzas. Views of interior of Cuba.
Trees, flowers, fruits, and cane-fields. Sugar estates.
Slaves laboring. Ingenio, La Ariadne 
102 
CHAPTER XII. 
First day on a sugar estate. The coffee estates. Change
from coffee estates to sugar estates. Causes and effects
of this change. Cultivation of sugar-cane. Making of
sugar. Profits of sugar-making. Process of sugar-making,
in the fields and mill. Division of labor. Engineer
from the United States. Treatment and labor of
negroes. Officers of a plantation, and their duties:
mayoral, mayordomo, contra-mayorales, boyero. Duties
and cares of the master. Visit to negro quarters 
112 
CHAPTER XIII. 
Trees and flowers. Chameleon. Fruits. Red ant.
Meals and routine of life on plantation. Penitentiary,
lying-in room, &c. Señor Bourgoise. Third day at
La Ariadne. Effects of foreign education on planters 
142 
CHAPTER XIV. 
Life of a planter and his family. Coffee estate of St. Catalina.
Afternoon ride. Departure from La Ariadne.
Return to Matanzas 
153 
CHAPTER XV. 
Matanzas. The Cumbre. The Yurnuri. The family of
Mr. C———. Ensor's 
161 
CHAPTER XVI. 
Railroad from Matanzas to Havana. Stations, views of
interior, from railroad train. Short sketch of the position
of Cuba; its productions, resources, civil and political
rights, religion, professions, sciences, and literature.
Return to Havana 
166 
CHAPTER XVII. 
At Havana. Dr. Howe. Trial of Señor Maestri. Music
of the contradanza 
174 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
Mass at the Belen. Worship in Cuban churches. Casa
de Beneficencia. Hospital Militar. Sisters of Charity.
Worship of the Sisters in their chapel. Sick soldiers 
178 
CHAPTER XIX. 
Drive over the Paseo de Tacon. Count de la Fernandina.
Cuban nobility. Hospital of San Juan de Dios. The
Presidio and grand prison; its inmates, discipline, &c 
190 
CHAPTER XX. 
A bull-fight  197 
CHAPTER XXI. 
Habits of the Cubans, beckoning, smoking, &c. Visit to
the Bishop, at Jesus del Monte. Coolie mart, in the
Cerro. The condition and prospects of the Coolies;
their importation, contracts, and treatment 
208 
CHAPTER XXII. 
A sale of slaves. Cuban preserves. Breakfast with Mr.
———. The census, and the probable number of
slaves, free blacks, Creoles, and whites. Lotteries.
Cock-fight. The Lopez expedition 
216 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
Condition of Cuba. Different classes of whites, Spaniards,
other foreigners, and Cubans. Political condition,
before 1825, and since 1825. Powers of the Captain-General.
Diminution of freedom, and growth of central
power. Army and navy. Taxes and revenue. 
225 
Religion, past and present. Past and present position of
the Roman Catholic Church. 
Free Blacks; their numbers, condition, rights, and prospects.
Laws favoring emancipation. 
Slaves. Their condition. Laws for their protection. Execution
of these laws. Compulsory sale. Purchase of
freedom. Bright side. Dark side. Marriage, increase,
and importation of negroes. Different views of the
problem of negro-labor. 
Material resources. Soils, productions, trees, mineral
wealth, coal. Climate. The sugar crop, and other staples. 
Education. Schools and colleges. 
Reflections and suggestions as to the future of Cuba. Independence.
Annexation. Protectorate. Effects of
her geographical position 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
The Cahawba. Her arrival. Last night in Havana.
Leave-takings. On board the Cahawba. Getting under
way. Last views of Cuba. Night at sea 
271 
CHAPTER XXV. 
A day at sea. Beautiful night at sea. Coast of United
States. Death of Mr. G———. Off the outer harbor
of New York. Pilot, news, fishing-boats. Sights
on entering the harbor. The wharf. New York hackmen.
Leave-takings, and separation of passengers.
End of the voyage 
280