University of Virginia Library

ISLE OF WIGHT.

Isle of Wight was one of the eight original shires into which
Virginia was divided in 1634. Its name originally was Warrosquyoake
shire, which it retained three years only, when its present
one was given to it. The county is 37 miles long, with a mean
width of 11: it has many creeks and swamps upon its surface, and
a great variety of soil, though it is generally thin and sandy.
Pop. in 1840, whites 4,918, slaves 3,786, free colored 1,268; total,
9,972.

Smithfield is in the northern part of the county, 65 miles southeasterly
from Richmond, 15 above Hampton Roads, and 3 miles
from James River. It lies on an elevated bank on the margin of
Pagan creek, a bold and navigable stream, commanding a beautiful
view of both land and water scenery—the country for 10 miles
on the opposite bank of the James is in full view. This town was
established in February, 1752, ten years after the founding of
Richmond. Arthur Smith, Esq., the original owner of the land,
had then laid it out into streets and lots, and being "an healthy
place, and open to trade and navigation," it had begun to be built
and settled upon. By the provisions of the act, Robert Burwell,
Arthur Smith, William Hodsden, James Baker, James Dunlop,
James Arthur, and Joseph Bridger, gentlemen, were appointed
trustees. Smithfield at present contains 10 or 12 stores, 1 Episcopalian,
1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church, and a population of
about 1000. The village is ornamented with shade-trees; and the
numerous porches to the dwellings impress the stranger favorably
as to the social and neighborly habits of its people. Several vessels
sail from Smithfield with the exports of the county. Among
these is bacon, cured here, which has long been celebrated, and
commands the preference in all markets. Mayfield is a small village
in the western part of the county.

Within an hour's ride from Smithfield, near the road to Suffolk,
in the depths of the forest, stands an ancient church in ruins. It
is alike an object of interest from its secluded situation, and its
great antiquity. We have before us a communication from a highly
respectable gentleman of this vicinity, which gives strong evidence
that it was built in the reign of Charles I., between the years 1630

and 1635. Tradition, too, states that it was the second church
erected in Virginia. The brick, lime, and timber, were imported
from England. The timber is English oak, and was framed before

Ancient Church, near Smithfield.

shipment. The whole structure was built in the most substantial
manner; and even now, the wood-work, where not exposed
to rain, is perfectly sound, and the mortar sufficiently hard to strike
fire when in collision with steel. The structure is of brick, has a
lofty tower, and is in good preservation. Its walls are overrun with
a delicate net-work of vines.

In its day, it was a splendid edifice. One window, of about 25
feet in height, was composed of painted glass, representing scriptural
subjects. It was probably abandoned about the period of the
American revolution, when the Episcopal church, for a time, became
nearly extinct in Virginia. Within the last twenty-five years,
it has been temporarily occupied by a sect called O'Kellyites.
There is a project, which may be carried into effect, to repair it. If
successful, generations yet unborn will meet within its time-hallowed
walls, where, even now, more than two centuries have
elapsed since their forefathers first raised the hymn of praise to
the living God.