59. "Hardtack and Coffee"
By JOHN D. BILLINGS (1861)
A FALSE impression has obtained more or less currency both with regard to the quantity and quality of the food furnished the soldiers. I have been asked a great many
times whether I always got enough to eat in the army, and have surprised inquirers by answering in the affirmative. Now, some old soldier may say who sees my reply,
"Well, you were lucky. I didn't."But I should at once ask him to tell me for how long a time his regiment was ever without food of some kind. Of course, I am not now
referring to our prisoners of war, who starved by the thousands. And I should be very much surprised if be should say more than twenty-four or thirty hours, at the outside.
I would grant that he himself might, perhaps have been so situated as to be deprived of food a longer time, possibly when he was on an exposed picket post, or serving as
rear-guard to the army, or doing something which separated him temporarily from his company; but his case would be the exception and not the rule. Sometimes, when
active operations were in progress, the army was compelled to wait a few hours for its trains to come up, but no general hardship to the men ever ensued on this account.
Such a contingency was usually known some time in advance, and the men would husband their last issue of rations, or perhaps, if the country admitted, would make
additions to their bill of fare in the shape of poultry or pork;—usually it was the latter, for the Southerners do not pen up their swine as do the Northerners, but let them go
wandering about, getting their living much of the time as best they can.
I will now give a complete list of the rations served out to the rank and file, as I remember them. They were salt pork, fresh beef, salt beef, rarely ham or bacon, hard
bread, soft bread, potatoes, an occasional onion, flour, beans, split pease, rice, dried apples, dried peaches, desiccated vegetables, coffee, tea, sugar, molasses, vinegar,
candles, soap, pepper, and salt.
It is scarcely necessary to state that these were not all served out at one time. There was but one kind of meat served at once, and this, to use a Hibernianism, was usually
pork. When it was hard bread, it wasn't soft bread or flour, and when it was pease or beans it wasn't rice.
The commissioned officers fared better in camp than the enlisted men. Instead of drawing rations after the manner of the latter, they had a certain cash allowance,
according to rank, with which to purchase supplies from the Brigade Commissary, an official whose province was to keep stores on sale for their convenience.
I will speak of the rations more in detail, beginning with the hard bread, or, to use the name by which it
was known in the Army of the Potomac, Hardtack. What was hardtack ? It was a plain flour-and-water biscuit. Two which I have in my possession as mementos measure
three and oneeighth by two and seven-eighths inches, and are nearly half an inch thick. Although these biscuits were furnished to organizations by weight, they were dealt
out to the
men by number, nine constituting a ration in some regiments, and ten in others; but there were usually
enough for those who wanted more, as some men would not draw them. While hardtack was nutritious,
yet a hungry man could eat his ten in a short time and still be hungry. When they were poor and fit
objects for the soldiers' wrath, it was due to one of three conditions : first, they may have been so hard
that they could not be bitten; it then required a very strong blow of the fist to break them; the second condition was when they were mouldy or wet, as sometimes
happened, and should not have been given to the soldiers: the third condition was when from storage they had become infested with maggots.
When the bread was mouldy or moist, it was thrown away and made good at the next drawing, so that the men were not the losers; but in the case of its being infested with
the weevils, they had to stand it as a rule ; but hardtack was not so bad an article of food, even when traversed by insects, as may be supposed. Eaten in the dark, no one
could tell the difference between it and hardtack that was untenanted. It was no uncommon occurrence for a man to find the surface of his pot of coffee swimming with
weevils, after breaking up hardtack in it, which had come out of the fragments only to drown; but they were easily skimmed off, and left no distinctive flavor behind.
Having gone so far, I know the reader will be interested to learn of the styles in which this particular article was served up by the soldiers. Of course, many of them were
eaten just as they were received—hardtack plain; then I have already spoken of their being crumbed in coffee, giving the "hardtack and coffee."Probably more were eaten
in this way than in any other, for they thus frequently furnished the soldier his breakfast and supper. But there were other and more appetizing ways of preparing them.
Many of the soldiers, partly through a slight taste for the business but more from force of circumstances, became in their way and opinion experts in the art of cooking the
greatest variety of dishes with the smallest amount of capital.
Some of these crumbed them in soups for want of other thickening. For this purpose they served very well. Some crumbed them in cold water, then fried the crumbs in the
juice and fat of meat. A dish akin to this one which was said to make the hair curl, and certainly was indigestible enough to satisfy the cravings of the most ambitious
dyspeptic, was prepared by soaking hardtack in cold water, then frying them brown in pork fat, salting to taste. Another name for this dish was skillygalee. Some liked
them toasted, either to crumb in coffee, or if a sutler was at hand whom they could patronize, to butter. The toasting generally took place from the end of a split stick.
Then they worked into milk-toast made of condensed milk at seventy-five cents a can ; but only a recruit with a big bounty, or an old vet, the child of wealthy parents, or a
reenlisted man did much in that way. A few who succeeded by hook or by crook in saving up a portion of their sugar ration spread it upon hardtack. And so in various
ways the ingenuity of the men was taxed to make this plainest and commonest yet most serviceable of army food to do duty in every conceivable combination.
