The sunny South, or, The Southerner at home :: :: University of Virginia Library

LETTER I.
Titles, how selected—Their value to a book—The difficulty of choosing
of a good title—“Dots and Lines”—Scissors and Needles—Female
Authorship—Woman's pen-trials—The Author's happiness—
Ambition to be in type 19
LETTER II.
A western home—Cole—Beautiful scenery—Cotton and tobacco fields—
Shelter—Mail coach—Lions—Doves and childhood—Negro quarters
The overseer's house—The Cumberland river 25
LETTER III.
The planter and his retinue—The African servant and his dog—The
hunters' departure—The slave girl, Eda—The numerous servants in
a southern house—The difference between the field and house slave 31
LETTER IV.
The hunters' return—The two strangers—The authoress' story—The
village and the widow—The brothers—The beautiful Ida—The mischievous
boy and minister's horse—The authoress—The normal
school—The private equipage—Col. Peyton and daughter—The surprise
37
LETTER V.
Touring among the mountains—The letter—The struggle—The opposition—The
little invalid scholar—The parting at the school-house—
Sympathy—The tour west—Arrival in Nashville—The “Lodge” 45

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LETTER VI.
Author's looks—Camel's hair pencils—The plantation bell—Waking
hours—The mint-julep—The luxury of a domestic—The breakfast
verandah—The dinner—The evening ride—The drawing-room—
Hours of retiring 50
LETTER VII.
Fox-hunting—Kate's courser—The young Tennessee hunters—The
separation—The master and his slaves—Reflections—The Peacock
and mule—The fight—A race, but not a fox-chase—The catastrophe. 56
LETTER VIII.
The morning start—The ravine and dogs—The negroes' invitation to
Reynard—The baying—The flight of the fox—The conflict and leap
—The entanglement—The veil and the death—Kate presented with
the brush 61
LETTER IX.
The rural chapel — The gray-haired pastor—The authoress attends
church—Group of Madonna and child—The singing of master and
slaves—The mistress and her servants—The ebony baptisms 66
LETTER X.
Nashville—Its approaches—The Hermitage and tomb—The capitol—
President Polk—Fashion and gayety—Authors—Poets of the west
—French in newspapers—Candidate for authorship 71
LETTER XI.
Enlisted as contributor—Gratitude—The hopes and fears of authorship
—Love of poets for their verses—Love of self—Newspaper poetry—
What is immortality—The fame of the year A.M. 6,000 77
LETTER XII.
The invitation—The intelligence of the horse—Nineveh—The nobility
of man—The scenery of the woods—Squirrels—The old negro and
culprit—Charms—The Indian hunter—The story of the old warrior
—The hospitable planter—Kate pays toll 83
LETTER XIII.
The good and true—Kate's bravery doubted—The old mansion—Di
Vernon rivalled—Hospitality in silver goblets—The portrait and

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character of Jackson—His mercy—The deserter—War-relics—The
major's war-horse—The deer-stands—Military posting—The deer in
sight—Perils—The shot 91
LETTER XIV.
The pet fawn—Buck and wolf—The uproar in the kennel—The canine
epicures and Mam' Daphney—Old George and his fiddle—A slave
village by moonlight—True music—Young Africa—Corn dance—
Riding a bull for a wager—Songs of the people 102
LETTER XV.
The scenery about the lodge—The Polks—The “needles” in danger—
The bloodhound—A rescue and the dirk—Aunt Phillisy—The aged
African—Care of southerners for the old slaves—Conversation with
Cusha—Comparison between the Indian and African—Female politicians
and patriotism—Clay and Webster 112
LETTER XVI.
Emerson and his thoughts—Female writers—The colonel reads no book
written by a lady—Shirley—Goldsmith—Shakspeare—Fame and
Tom Moore—Opening an Indian mound—Discovery of idols—Geology
en amateur—Thunderbolts—A lover's quarrel—All owing to
a prescription—A story proposed 121
LETTER XVII.
The Nashville convention—The site of the city—Two South Carolinians—An
old Roman—The party attend convention—Politeness in
public assemblies—Madame de Stael upon honor and duty—South
Carolina orators—The handsome mayor—Speeches of Virginia delegation—Hon.
Wm. Colquitt—General Pillow—W. H. Polk—Self-laudation—Adjournment
of convention—Thanks to the ladies—A
gift from South Carolina 129
LETTER XVIII.
A mysterious letter—Not a declaration—The fame of the authoress at
a premium—Invitation to write—A tale proposed—The master and
slave—An African wedding—Brilliant costumes—The supper—Ethiopian
gentility—The sea-captain—New Africa ignores Old Africa—
The captain rides 142

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LETTER XIX.
The authoress writes a tale—A word to editors—Isabel and the wounded
soldier—A noble reply—Orthography and warm hearts—An adventure
with a Bengal tiger—The perilous situation of the ladies—The
power of music over brutes—The rescue—The death—Birds, and
monkeys, and little negroes 150
LETTER XX.
Fishing—Costume for the woods—Isabel in becoming attire—Men's
hats and women—The pic-nic-basket—A betrayal of red sealing-wax
—A merry party—The captain's craft—Towing into port—Cooing—
The forest brook—The lovers—Lessons in fishing—The dinner in the
forest—Old Hickory's memory 159
LETTER XXI.
Ralph Waldo Emerson—His philosophy—A critique—Where his philosophy
is defective—School for young statesmen—College for diplomats
at Washington—Foreign ministers to be able to speak foreign
languages—Dickens and his books—Mrs. Fanny Osgood and her
pen 169
LETTER XXII.
No more book—Proposed departure to the Springs—The carriage and
how it was stowed—The cavalcade, not omitting Dickon and his boots
—The led horse and beautiful mule—Mules aristocratic animals—
Negroes' admiration for new shoes—Gentlemen's hats—A suggestion
to promote conversation in the parlor—An expression of thanks in a
P.S. 174
LETTER XXIII.
The secret—Visit to Columbia—The birth-place and mother of a president—The
Gothic institute—The professor and his halls—The curiosity
of a bevy of girls—A lioness—The unlucky poet—Kate's indignation—The
colonel's surprise—The punishment—The forgiveness
—The dreaded poem 186
LETTER XXIV.
The Eden of Tennessee—The editor's excursion—Duck river, or, what
is in a name?—A beautiful villa and grounds—Bishop Otey at his
home—Reflections upon death—Beautiful scenery—The art of smoking—A
few feminine suggestions and criticisms on smoking cigars 194

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LETTER XXV.
A watering place—Its tedium—The last resort—Description of the
place—Noon-day scenes—The fishing lawyer and his horse—The fat
gentleman and his catastrophe—An alarm—General waking up—
Dinner-bell—The bonhommie of the slave—Unbroken forest—An
Ethiopian dinner—Night and its sounds 200
LETTER XXVI.
The hour and pen for writing—The return home—The village of Mount
Pleasant—Ken Hill and scholarly men—Donald M'Leod—The neglect
of education—Count Meolis—Bonbons—The delights of home
—Keep moving—A proposed trip to New Orleans—The power of
song—Jenny Lind 212
LETTER XXVII.
The novelty of south-western life—An enumeration of objects of interest—The
young southerner—The fair maiden of the sunny south
—Run-a-way matches—Sargent's song—Bats in the room—Terror
of young ladies—The battle and victory—The colonel lectures on
bats—They devour musquitoes, not maidens 222
LETTER XXVIII.
The baggage—Parting at the park—Pets—The mystery of brute life—
Scenery—Arrival at the steamer—The noble America—The beauty
of the verandabs—Elegance and luxury—The promenade—State-rooms—Departure
of the boat—The last bell 233
LETTER XXIX.
The beauty of the Ohio—The pirates' cave—The river robbers—The
good old keel-boat times—Life on the river fifty years ago—The grave
beneath the sycamore—The old pilot's story—The assassination—
Revelations of the future—The exquisite and his hat—The deserters
shot—The pilot house—Father of waters 241
LETTER XXX.
Entrance into the Mississippi—Meeting of the waters—The dark river
—The dangers of the Mississippi—Beautiful sun-set—Chain of lakes
Night on the water—The woodmen's fires—The captain's story—
Signal fires and the ruse—Earthquakes—The bear and alarm 251

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LETTER XXXI.
The city of Natchez—Its elegance—The beauty of its suburbs—Its
polished people—The magnolias—Drive from town—A superb villa
—Visit a charming garden—A lovely prospect—Southern flowers—
The night-blooming cereus—The grave of “good old Peter”—Reflections
upon “faithful servants” 259
LETTER XXXII.
The old family—The position of governesses in the south—Of tutors—
The evil of northern interference with the south—The meeting of
Kate with a friend—The education of southern boys—The dead shot
—The Indian chief and Sharp's rifle—The Indian grave and the
Christian chapel—Subject for a poem 267
LETTER XXXIII.
Lost needles—The old parson—The carefully entrusted package—Letter
from the editor naming the loss—Reflections upon missing MSS
—Two parcels lost—Value of manuscripts to authors—“To be preserved”
276
LETTER XXXIV.
In Louisiana — Letters from the prairies—Narrative resumed—The
steamer in sight—Fort Rosalie—Go on board—Waving of kerch iefs
—The fawn's leap—Opulence spoils authors—The elegant steamer—
The mysterious passenger 283
LETTER XXXV.
Interior of a packet—The fine old southern gentleman—Happy world
—Wandering pen—The interesting invalid—Superb piano performance
of a stranger—Operatic stars—Not Jenny Lind—Who is she?—Musical
genius of southern women—Biscaccianti—Parodi—Letters from
Louisiana 289
LETTER XXXVI.
The lower Mississippi—Scenery on the shores—A vast cotton field—
Wealth of cotton-planters—The way to get rich—Baton Rouge—
The home of General Taylor—Old Whitey—Ladies of Baton Rouge
—Members of the legislature—Voyage resumed 296
LETTER XXXVII.
The old pilot—The red pole—A corsair of Louisiana—The old times of
river buccaneers—A hint for a story writer—The pirate's death—The

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governor's bride—A bit of romance—Senator Benjamin—His appearance—Discussion
and talent—The intellect of the Jews—Their
ambition—President of the United States 302
LETTER XXXVIII.
The sugar estate—Chateau and quartier—Sucrerie—Cost of opening a
sugar estate—An enchanting scene—Signal fires—The two convents
—Education of girls therein—Dame Ursula and her legends—The
influence of convents over the minds of pupils—Romanism—Prayers
and pedes 309
LETTER XXXIX.
Descendants of the French in Louisiana—View from a balcony—Passing
steamers—Sugar fields—A Louisianian chateau—The slave village
—Sugar house—M. de Clery's son—A secret—Proposed visit to New
Orleans—An engagement—Lovers to be chosen for their good
temper 316
LETTER XL.
Music by night — Isabel — Musquito-bars—The carriage road—The
levee—Danger of the dwellers on the “coast”—What a crevasse is
—How it begins and is stopped—The authoress guardian over a lover
—The midnight tocsin—A conflagration—A prayer for those in
danger 322
LETTER XLI.
First impressions of a city—The foreign aspect of New Orleans—The
Indian war-whoop—The conductor and the old lords of the soil—The
poodle-dog—The Frenchman and his bird—The cake—The conversation
with the prisoner in the cage—The grandpa meets his family—
The joy of the household—The escapade—The consternation and pursuit
328
LETTER XLII.
Approach to the city—Gardens and villas—Arrival at the depot—An
Irish hackman—Chinaman with kites—Handsome bouquet seller—
The parrot man—Isidore buys a bouquet—The drive to the St. Louis
—Its palace-like accommodations 334

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LETTER XLIII.
The levee at New Orleans—Ride along the quay—The ships of Sweden
—Jenny Lind, Thorwaldsen, and Frederika Bremer—The half-masted
flags—The ships of England, France, and Spain—Wharf for
steamers—The glory and splendor of commerce—The fate of all ancient
commercial cities 338
LETTER XLIV.
The model hotel-proprietor—Diplomas—Hotel-keeping an art and profession—The
French part of the city—Shops—The old cigar-smoker
—Indifference to observation of the French—New Orleans composed
of two cities—Children even speak French—An exile—A German
prince—nearly all languages spoken in the city 345
LETTER XLV.
The peculiarity of the streets—Young ladies taught philosophy—The
Place d'Armes and its gay scenes—Visit to the cathedral—Veiled
lady—The confessional—Secret of power—The picture of the Passion—Mariolatry—Reason
for it in the inseparability of the Madonna
and Child—St. Patrick's cathedral—Ill built church 352
LETTER XLVI.
Return to the country—Correction of error caused by misplaced notes
—Nicolene—Who is she?—Friendship without sight—A greeting to
the loved unknown—A wedding in prospect—Taxes upon taste—Isidore—Aunt
Cloe icing cakes—Bosting-way 360
LETTER XLVII.
Danger of postponement of wedding—Objections now to the nuptials
—Isidore in despair—Kate the consoler—Colonel Peyton condemns
all fashion—A new idea—M. de Clery is charmed with it—Whipping
around the stump—The excitement of preparation—What daughters
exchange for husbands—Blessings on the happy pair 364
LETTER XLVIII.
A wedding—Men's curiosity—The dogs, birds, and sable urchins rejoice
—Old Bonus—A howling dog supposed to be an ill omen—Muzzled
—The visit to the chapel—The parson and his mule—Beauty of
scenery—The chapel—The grave—Reflections upon life and death
—Parting with the bride fills her heart with tears 371

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LETTER XLIX.
The cortege—Slave costume—The wreath of orange blossoms—Beautiful
girls—Twenty-four bridesmaids—The wedding—The kissing—
The congratulations—Return to the chateau—Dinner party—Lost
and won hearts—Betrayal of a secret—Intended departure for New
York—An old maid of two and twenty 376
LETTER L.
Preparations for Havanna—The dignity of Webster—A letter to Charley
—The unfledged blue bird—The trouble of its parents—Congress of
the forest dwellers—The efforts of the friends of the unfortunate—
Kate's compassion—A ladder and cotton—Moral to little boys 382
LETTER LI.
Descending the Mississippi—The Balize—Singular appearance of the
vessels—The beauty of the first night on the gulf—The splendor of
Orion and Pleiades—Were there ever seven stars?—The native
poetry of children 388
LETTER LII.
Havanna—The Moro Castle—A line of battle ship—The scenes in the
streets of Havanna—The British flag—The glory of America—The
empire of republics—The Triumviri—Who takes their place? 394
LETTER LIII.
New York—Neptune—Calm seas—The living heart under the sea—
Vessels met in the ocean—Our passengers of ten nations—The Israelite—What
is a Jew?—Has he a country—The future commercial
splendor of the Israelites 399
LETTER LIV.
The departure over sea—Leave the city—Cars to Boston—M. de Cressy
—The aspect of Boston—Literary society—Germon—Mrs. Partington
—Her literary ambition and failure—Homeward bound—Quiet of the
country 405
LETTER LV.
My native village—The scenes at home—The visits of neighbors—The
deacon inquisitive—Bible trees—The new dresses—Buttonhole and
his seven suits—The proposition to print a book—The proposed title
—Diffidence of the authoress—Farewell to literature 410

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LETTER LVI.
A surprise—Marriage of Kate nearly three years ago—Letter from her
friend, the editor—Letters to be resumed—Little Harry—Little needles
—Consent to write—Quiet and elegant home—Kate a southern
matron 415
LETTER LVII.
Mistaken for another—The European Miss Conyngham—Letters unwritten
of a tour—The route to Thibodeaux—Bayous and boat-sailing—Sugar
fields—Customs of the people—Saturday gatherings—
The barges of the planters—A charming country 421
LETTER LVIII.
Illawalla or Lover's Lake—Beautiful lawns—The house and grounds
—Imaginary letter of the editor—Description of a southern home—
Kate's criticisms—Homes and heaven—What constitutes a home—
The words of Jesus—Cities the results of the fall—Race with a deer
—The Indian lover's death 430
LETTER LIX.
The picture—Aunt Winny—Florette and Harry—Aunt Winny's experience—The
voice and silver trumpet—The old slave's argument
about tongues—The vision—The preacher and baptism—The miracle
and superstition of the slave—Reflection upon negro conversions—
An answer to an inquiry 437
LETTER LX.
Shopping—The new fashion—Chloe and the mode—Dissertation upon
hats and fashion generally—An academy of fashions—A suggestion
to the ladies of America—A good result from an American court of
modes—Preparation for a picnic 448
LETTER LXI.
The commissariat's department—Harry and the doctor—The baskets
and parcels — The Xebec—the floating boudoir—Uncle Ned the
steersman—The two sisters—Louis the lover—Harry not Cupid—The
bayou—Breakfast en voyage—Accession to the party—The good
wishes—Harry's accomplishments 453

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LETTER LXII.
Talkative pens—Thibodeaux—Enter La Fourche—The voyage begun
—The torch-light funeral of the nun—The goddess Mary—The
prophecy and a little theology—The sugar estate—The savannahs—
A deer—An alligator—The Gulf, ho! 462
LETTER LXIII.
Authors and money—The sight of the Gulf—Hoist sail—The sugar
sloop—Gulf trade—Children's speeches—The condition of the slave
—Northern interference—Southern humanity—When a black Moses
is wanted, Heaven will send him—The anchoring—Tent pitched—
An alarm 471
LETTER LXIV.
Identity of authors—Speculations—Pen—Names—Our tent lodgings
—The Revenue Cutter—Successful sport—Visit to Barrataria Bay
—The apparent volcano at sea—The sphericity of the earth—The
needle and light-ship—Lafitte's Fort 482
LETTER LXV.
The summer resort of Louisianians—The Roman Chapel—“Mary and
Paul”—Adoration of the mother—The marquis—The post-mistress
and her brave father—Captain Hearn—Gentility—The mound and
Indian warrior—Bathing and swimming 491
LETTER LXVI.
Leave the Pass—The Oregon—Lake by moonlight—The beauty of the
sea by night—Meeting a vessel—Grass Patch—The Fleet Anchorage
The Cutter—Captain Douglas Ottinger, inventor of the Life Car—
Mobile—Its bay and watering places—Hotels 500
LETTER LXVII.
The Southern clime—Society in Mobile—Beauty of suburbs—Society
Madame Le Vert—Absent in Europe—An adventurer of the female
sex — “Noble friends” — The jewelry discovery — Flight of the
countess 505
LETTER LXVIII.
Leave the hospitalities of Mobile—Its pleasant people and fine drives
Sail up the Alabama—Montgomery—Ring left at the hotel—Conductor's
promise—Augusta—Columbia a Paradise—Charleston and
South Carolinians—The Triumviri 513

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LETTER LXIX.
An old Virginia Inn—First Families—Walter Raleigh—Scenery of
Virginia—The son of nobles—The Inn parlor—Sumptuous table—
Trip to Europe—Farewell 521