University of Virginia Library

Search this document 
Historical collections of Virginia

containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to its history and antiquities, together with geographical and statistical descriptions : to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia : illustrated by over 100 engravings, giving views of the principal towns, seats of eminent men, public buildings, relics of antiquity, historic localities, natural scenery, etc., etc.
  
  
  
  
  
  
expand section 

expand section 
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
collapse section 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
CLARKE.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

  

233

Page 233

CLARKE.

Clarke was formed in 1836, from Frederick, and named from
Gen. Geo. Rogers Clarke; it is 17 miles long, and 15 wide. Its
surface is undulating, and the soil not surpassed in fertility by any
other county in the state. The Shenandoah runs through the eastern
part, at the foot of the Blue Ridge, and the Opequon near its
western line. Pop., whites 2,867, slaves 3,325, free colored 161;
total, 6,353.

illustration

Washington's Office and Lodgings at "Soldier's Rest."

Berryville, the county-seat, is 160 miles NW. of Richmond, and
12 east of Winchester. It was established Jan. 15, 1798, on 20
acres of land belonging to Benjamin Berry and Sarah Strebling,
and the following gentlemen appointed trustees: Daniel Morgan,
William M'Guire, Archibald Magill, Rawleigh Colston, John Milton,
Thomas Strebling, George Blackmore, Charles Smith, and
Bushrod Taylor. It now contains an Episcopal church, and about
35 dwellings. About the year 1744, (says Kercheval,) Joseph
Hampton and two sons came from the eastern shore of Maryland,
settled on Buck marsh, near Berryville, and lived the greater part
of the year in a hollow sycamore tree. They enclosed a piece of
land and made a crop, preparatory to the removal of the family.

The village of Berryville is often called Battletown, from having
been the scene of many of those pugilistic combats for which
Gen. Daniel Morgan, of revolutionary memory, was remarkable.

This officer resided, for a time, about half a mile N. of Battletown, at a seat called
"Soldier's Rest." It is a plain two-story dwelling, originally built by a Mr. Morton,
and afterwards added to by Morgan. It is now the residence of Mr. John B. Taylor.

Morgan subsequently built another, a beautiful seat, now standing in this county, two
miles NE. of White Post, which he very appropriately named Saratoga. It was erected
by Hessians taken prisoners at Saratoga. About 200 yards from "Soldier's Rest,"
stands an old log hut, which well-authenticated tradition states was occupied by Washington


234

Page 234
while surveying land in this region for Lord Fairfax. It is about 12 feet square,
and is divided into two rooms; one in the upper, and the other in the lower story. The
lower apartment was then, and is now, used as a milk-room. A beautiful spring gushes
up from the rocks by the house, and flows in a clear, crystal stream, under the building,
answering admirably the purpose to which it is applied, in cooling this apartment. Many
years since, both the spring and the building were protected from the heat of the summer's
sun, by a dense copse of trees. The upper, or attic room, which is about 12 feet
square, was occupied by Washington as a place of deposite for his surveying instruments,
and as a lodging—how long, though, is not known. The room was lathed and plastered.
A window was at one end, and a door—up to which led a rough flight of steps
—at the other. This rude hut is, perhaps, the most interesting relic of that great and
good man, who became "first in the hearts of his countrymen." It is a memento of
him in humble life, ere fame had encircled his brows with her choicest laurels, before that
nation, now among the highest through his exertions, had a being; but the vicissitudes
and toils of his youth—as beautifully described in the annexed extract from Bancroft—
combined to give energy to his character, and that practical, every-day knowledge,
which better prepared him for the high and important destiny that awaited him:

At the very time of the Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle, the woods of Virginia sheltered the youthful
George Washington, the son of a widow. Born by the side of the Potomac, beneath the roof of a Westmoreland
farmer, almost from infancy his lot had been the lot of an orphan. No academy had welcomed
him to its shades, no college crowned him with its honors: to read, to write, to cipher—these had been
his degrees in knowledge. And now at sixteen years of age, in quest of an honest maintenance, encountering
intolerable toll; cheered onward by being able to write to a schoolboy friend, "Dear Richard, a
doubloon is my constant gain every day, and sometimes six pistoles;" "himself his own cook, having no
spit but a forked stick, no plate but a large chip;" roaming over spurs of the Alleghanies, and along the
banks of the Shenandoah; alive to nature, and sometimes "spending the best of the day in admiring the
trees and richness of the land;" among skin-clad savages, with their scalps and rattles, or uncouth emigrants
"that would never speak English;" rarely sleeping in a bed; holding a bear-skin a splendid couch;
glad of a resting-place for the night upon a little hay, straw, or fodder, and often camping in the forests,
where the place nearest the fire was a happy luxury;—this stripling surveyor in the woods, with no
companion but his unlettered associates, and no implements of science but his compass and chain, contrasted
strangely with the imperial magnificence of the Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle. And yet God had
selected not Kaunitz, nor Newcastle, not a monarch of the house of Hapsburg, nor of Hanover, but the
Virginia stripling, to give an impulse to human affairs, and, as far as events can depend upon an individual,
had placed the rights and the destinies of countless millions in the keeping of the widow's son.

Col. Charles M. Thruston, a patriotic clergyman of the Episcopal
denomination, who became an officer of the revolutionary
army, resided for many years on a beautiful farm in this county,
called Mount Sion, one mile above the Shenandoah. For a biographical
sketch, see Gloucester county.

Four miles NE. of Millwood is the "Old Chapel," built in 1796,
in which the Rt. Rev. Wm. Meade, Bishop of the Episcopal church
in Va., officiated for many years. It is a venerable-looking stone
edifice, partly in a grove, and has adjoining it a grave-yard, in
which lie buried many respectable people of the neighboring
country.

Gen. Rogers Clarke, from whom this county derived its name, was an officer of the
revolution, of undaunted coolness and courage. In addition to the facts given on p. 116,
we have a single anecdote to relate, published in the "Notes of an Old Officer." At
the treaty of Fort Washington, where Clarke had but 70 men, 300 Shawnees appeared
in the council chamber. Their chief made a boisterous speech, and then placed on the
table a belt of white and black wampum, to intimate they were ready for either peace
or war, while his 300 savages applauded him by a terrific yell. At the table sat Clarke,
with only two or three other persons. Clarke, who was leaning on his elbow with apparent
unconcern, with his rattan coolly pushed the wampum on to the floor. Then rising
as the savages muttered their indignation, he trampled on the belt, and with a look of
stern defiance and a voice of thunder, that made the stoutest heart quail, bade them instantly
quit the hall. They involuntarily left, and the next day sued for peace. Gen.
Clarke died in Kentucky, in 1817.

The subject of the above notice had a brother, Gen. Wm. Clarke, who was scarcely
less distinguished. He was born in this state in 1770. When 14 years old, he removed
with his father's family to Kentucky, where the city of Louisville now stands. It then
consisted only of a few cabins surrounding a fort, then recently established by his
brother, Gen. Rogers Clarke. He entered the army, and was lieutenant in 1790. He


235

Page 235
was the companion of Lewis on the expedition to the Pacific. In 1806, he was appointed
governor of the territory of Upper Louisiana, and governor of Missouri from
1813 to 1820, when it was admitted into the Union. He held various offices, among
which was that of superintendent of Indian affairs. He made many important treaties
with the Indians. He well understood their character and won their most unbounded
confidence. "His name was known to the most remote tribes, and his word was everywhere
reverenced by them. They regarded him as a father, and his signature, which
was known to the most remote tribes, whenever shown was respected." He died in
1838, aged 68, at St. Louis, where he had resided for over 30 years.

Millwood, 11 miles southeasterly from Winchester, contains an
Episcopal church, and about 30 dwellings. It is the centre of a
beautiful and fertile country, and enjoys a considerable trade with
it. White Post,[1] 12 miles SE. of Winchester, contains a church,
2 mercantile stores, and 16 dwellings.

illustration

Greenway Court, the seat of Lord Fairfax.

Thirteen miles southeast from Winchester, near the village of
White Post in this county, is Greenway Court, the seat of the late
Lord Fairfax, the proprietor of the Northern Neck of Virginia;
and at present the residence of the Rev. Mr. Kennerly.

Part of the immense tract among the rich valleys of the Alleghany
mountains, were surveyed by Washington, and divided into
lots, to enable the proprietor to claim his quit-rents and give legal
titles. Washington set off on his first surveying expedition in
March, 1748, just a month from the day he was sixteen years old,
in company with George Fairfax, the eldest son of William Fairfax,
whose daughter, Washington's eldest brother, Lawrence, had
married. Sparks, in his Life of Washington, gives the annexed
account of the proprietor of the Northern Neck:

Lord Fairfax, a distant relative of William Fairfax, was a man of an eccentric turn
of mind, of great private worth, generous, and hospitable. He had been accustomed
to the best society, to which his rank entitled him, in England. While he was at the


236

Page 236
University of Oxford he had a fondness for literature, and his taste and skill in that line
may be inferred from his having written some of the papers in the Spectator. Possessing
by inheritance a vast tract of country,[2] situate between the Potomac and Rappahannock
Rivers, and stretching across the Alleghany mountains, he made a voyage to
Virginia to examine this domain. So well pleased was he with the climate and mode
of life, that he resolved, after going back to England and arranging his affairs, to return
and spend his days amidst this wild territory. At the time (1748) of which we are
now speaking, he had just arrived to execute his purpose, and was residing with his
relatives at Belvoir. This was his home for several years; but he at length removed
over the Blue Ridge, built a house in the Shenandoah Valley, called Greenway Court,
and cultivated a large farm. Here he lived in comparative seclusion, often amusing himself
with hunting, but chiefly devoted to the care of his estate, to acts of benevolence among
his tenants, and to such public duties as devolved upon him in the narrow sphere he had
chosen; a friend of liberty, honored for his uprightness, esteemed for the amenity of his
manners, and his practical virtues.

The prominent building shown in the view at Greenway Court,
was appropriated to the use of the steward of Fairfax. It was the
commencement of a series of buildings which Lord Fairfax had
intended to erect, but did not live to complete.

His lordship lived and died in a single clap-board story and a half house, which stood
just in front of the modern brick dwelling of Mr. Kennerly, and was destroyed in 1834.
There are now several of the original buildings standing at the place: among them is
a small limestone structure, where quit-rents were given and titles drawn, of his lordship's
domains. Fairfax had, probably, 150 negro servants, who lived in log huts
scattered about in the woods.

A few years since, in excavating the ground near the house, the servants of Mr. Kennerly
discovered a large quantity of joes and half-joes, amounting to about $250; they
were what is termed cob-coin, of a square form, and dated about 1730. They were
supposed to have been secreted there by Lord Fairfax. Under a shelving rock, 9 feet
from the surface, there was also found a human skeleton of gigantic stature; supposed to
be that of an Indian.

When Lord Dunmore went on his expedition against the Indians in 1774, he came on
as far as this place with a portion of his troops, and waited here about a fortnight for
reinforcements. His soldiers encamped in what was then a grove—now a meadow—
about 300 yards N. of Mr. Kennerly's present residence. The spot is indicated by a
deep well, supposed to have been dug by them; an old magazine, destroyed in 1843,
stood near the well. Washington, when recruiting at Winchester, often visited this
place.

Lord Fairfax had but little cultivated ground around his premises, and that was in
small patches without taste or design. The land was left for a park, and he lived almost
wholly from his rents. The following, as well as much of the foregoing, respecting
him, is traditionary: His lordship was a dark, swarthy man, several inches over 6 feet
in height, and of a gigantic frame and personal strength. He lived the life of a bachelor,
and fared coarse, adopting in that respect the rough customs of the people among
whom he was. When in the humor, he was generous—giving away whole farms to his
tenants, and simply demanding for rent some trifle, for instance, a present of a turkey
for his Christmas dinner. He was passionately fond of hunting, and often passed weeks
together in the pleasures of the chase. When on these expeditions, he made it a
rule, that he who got the fox, cut off his tail, and held it up, should share in the jollification
which was to follow, free of expense. Soon as a fox was started, the young men
of the company usually dashed after him with great impetuosity, while Fairfax leisurely


237

Page 237
waited behind, with a favorite servant who was familiar with the water-courses, and of
a quick ear, to discover the course of the fox. Following his directions, his lordship
would start after the game, and, in most instances, secure the prize, and stick the tail
of the fox in his hat in triumph.

Lord Fairfax died at the advanced age of ninety-two, in the autumn of 1782, soon after
the surrender of Cornwallis, an event he is said to have much lamented. He was buried
at Winchester, under the communion-table of the old Episcopal church. [See Winchester.]

 
[1]

So named from a white post which Lord Fairfax planted as a guide to his dwelling
—one mile distant.

[2]

The domain of Lord Fairfax, called the Northern Neck of Virginia, included the
immense territory now comprising the counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond,
Westmoreland, Stafford, King George, Prince William, Fairfax, Loudoun, Fauquier,
Culpeper, Clarke, Madison, Page, Shenandoah, Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan,
Berkeley, Jefferson, and Frederick. Charles II. granted to the ancestors of Lord Fairfax,
all lands lying between the head-waters of the Rappahannock and Potomac to the
Chesapeake Bay; a territory comprising about one quarter of the present limits of Virginia.
For a full history of the Northern Neck, the reader is referred to Kercheval's
History of the Valley of Virginia.