GIBRALTAR-February 1893.
[DEAR MOTHER:]
Morocco as it is is a very fine place spoiled by
civilization. Not nice civilization but the dregs of it, the
broken down noblemen of Spain and cashiered captains of
England and the R — — L — — 's of America. They hunt and
play
cricket and gamble and do nothing to maintain what is best in
the place or to help what is worst. I love the Moors and the
way they hate the Christian and the scorn and pride they show.
They seem to carry all the mystery and dignity of Africa and
of foreign conquests about them, and they are wonderfully well
made and fine looking and self-respecting. The color is very
beautiful, but the foreign element spoils it at every turn.
One should really go inland but I shall not because I mean to
do that when I reach Cairo. Everybody goes inland from here
and Bonsal
has covered it already. He is a great man here among all
classes.
I have bought two long guns and three pistols three feet
long and a Moorish costume for afternoon teas. I shall look
fine. My guide's idea of pleasing me is to kick everybody out
of the way which always brings down curses on me so I have to
go back and give them money and am so gradually becoming
popular and much sought after by blind beggars. You can get
three pounds of copper for a franc and it lasts all day
throwing it right and left all the time. I made a great tear
in Bonsal's record today by refusing to pay a snake charmer
all he wanted and then when he protested I took one of the
snakes out of his hands and swung it around my head to the
delight of the people. I wanted to show him he was a fakir to
want me to pay for what I would do myself. It was a large
snake about four feet long. Then my horse and another horse
got fighting in the principal street in the city standing up
on their hind legs and boxing like men and biting and
squealing. It was awful and I got mine out of the way and was
trod on and had my arm nearly pulled off and the crowd
applauded and asked my guide whether I was American or
English. They do not like the English. So with the lower
classes I may say that I am having a social success.
DICK.
