III.
THE erect carriage and steady swift walk of the women who bear
burdens is especially likely to impress the artistic observer: it
is the sight of such passers-by which gives, above all, the
antique tone and color to his first sensations;—and the larger
part of the female population of mixed race are practised
carriers. Nearly all the transportation of light merchandise, as
well as of meats, fruits, vegetables, and food stuffs,—to and
from the interior,—is effected upon human heads. At some of the
ports the regular local packets are loaded and unloaded by women
and girls,—able to carry any trunk or box to its destination.
At Fort-de-France the great
steamers of the Compagnie Générale
Transatlantique, are entirely coaled by women, who carry the coal
on their heads, singing as they come and go in processions of
hundreds; and the work is done with incredible rapidity. Now,
the creole
porteuse, or female carrier, is certainly one of
the most remarkable physical types in the world; and whatever
artistic enthusiasm her graceful port, lithe walk, or half-savage
beauty may inspire you with, you can form no idea, if a total
stranger, what a really wonderful being she is. … Let me tell
you something about that highest type of professional female carrier,
which is to the
charbonnière, or coaling-girl, what the thorough-bred
racer is to the draught-horse,—the type of porteuse selected for
swiftness and endurance to distribute goods in the interior parishes,
or to sell on commission at long distances. To the same class naturally
belong those country carriers able to act as porteuses of plantation
produce, fruits, or vegetables,—between the nearer ports and
their own interior parishes. … Those who believe that great
physical endurance and physical energy cannot exist in the
tropics do not know the creole carrier-girl.