University of Virginia Library


33

THE COUNTRY TOWN

A REVERIE

Coepi egomet mecum sic cogitare: ‘Hem! nos homunculi indignamur si quis nostrum interiit aut occisus est, quorum vita brevior esse debet, quum uno loco tot oppidûm cadavera proiecta iacent? Visne tu te, Servi, cohibere et meminisse hominem te esse natum?’— Sulpicius to Cicero.

But there's a tree of many, one,
A single field which I have looked upon,
Both of them speak of something that is gone.
Wordsworth.


34

I

1

All outward forms immutable abide,
And in my heart a thousand memories spring:
The shepherd sings on yon green barrow's side,
As thirty summers past I heard him sing:
I hear, I hear the same lark answering:
I scent the old, remembered, warm perfume
Of the wild thyme: I tread the Fairy ring;
And welcome, each in their familiar room,
That far-off climbing flock, those shadows in the combe.

2

And calm within the bosom of the down,
As though no Time could waste, no Fortune fret
Her ancient peace, I see my own fair Town,
Girdled with golden sunbeams, changeless yet;
Her Tudor roofs; her spires Plantagenet;
Her Castle walls, where many a springing tree,
Elder and ash, their roots have strongly set:
Beneath, the River, o'er the level lea,
Through countless scattered herds winds softly to the sea.

3

Say, do I gaze upon a painted scene,
Or linger, still a child, on fairy ground,
While Fancy wafts from every deep ravine
Some sight of marvel, some romantic sound?
Here, many a morn, I've heard the distant hound;
Or watched the leveret scudding far away
With her lone shadow; or rejoicing found
Where in the turf-built trap, the shepherd's prey,
Noosed in the hairy springe, the captive wheat-ear lay.

35

4

Lo, at my side I see Another stand;
I hear a voice that breathes a tender tone;
I follow o'er the vale a pointing hand,
To mill, and spire, and yonder roof, our own.
Alas! The Image fades. I am alone.
Whatever Feeling wrought or Memory gave,
The Voice, the Hand, the Vision, all are gone;—
Viewless and trackless as yon river's wave,
That yesterday rolled down beneath my Father's grave!

5

Sweet Valley! once the scene of boyhood's mirth,
And still of dust beloved the sacred shrine,
If e'er, in other days, thy fostering earth
Mingled its ancient memories with mine,
So that in thee my spirit might divine
Some note of hidden harmony unsung;—
Breathe in me, Genius of the Place! refine
Imagination's sense, and teach my tongue
The music of the soil on which my childhood sprung!

6

By stream, and hill, and dale, beneath, around,
I see the reliques of the Ages spread;
Where peaceful lies rude Freedom's funeral mound
By turf-grown camps of conquering Empire dead;

36

Void fanes, by old Religion tenanted;
And fallen seats of Knighthood's high control.
Fair Spirit! o'er the scene thy influence shed,
And in each lifeless form, with living soul,
Reveal the Nation's course; its birth, its growth, its goal!

II

7

As flows the life-blood from the Heart's deep wells
With still renewing still destroying tide,
And every moment wastes and builds the cells
Wherein its ceaseless circling currents glide:
So runs the dream-like tale of human pride.
The Nations come; they lay foundations vast,
Creed, Custom, Law; awhile their works abide;
Then vanish; or new Times old Forms re-cast,
Taught by their master Change, God's chief Iconoclast.

8

Perhaps yon swelling barrow buries deep
Some chief, once ranger of Andreda's waste:
He sits, his forehead bent, as though in sleep,
His bow and flinty barb beside him placed,
And meal, by pious hands prepared in haste,
That the lone spirit, from the mortal clay
Released, might find the well-known cup, and taste
The charitable food, then speed his way,
Through more enchanting scenes to urge a swifter prey.

37

9

Vain Creed! Let Science rob the roofless tomb,
To vaunt the growing glories of our kind;
And from the relics of his art assume
His soul debased, his half inhuman mind!
Yet was he Man! His simpler heart enshrined
An image of the Unseen. Erect he trod;
Since in the waves, the stars, the sun, the wind,
He saw the Maker's hand; and on the sod
He reared the turfy pile, and bent the knee to God.

10

From mystic Eld his dim religion came:
Untouched to keep the Father's sacred powers;
To save the Household Gods from household shame;
And seal with holy awe the Marriage bowers.
Seems then his Instinct less refined than ours?
Or what avails our Reason's high discourse,
Whose hearth each day the adulterous wife deflowers,
Unpitied leaves her babe, nor feigns remorse,
While Law the wanton speeds, and grants the glad Divorce?

11

Nor foreign seemed to his untutored breast
The thoughts that Fatherland could once inspire;

38

Or images, by later bards expressed,
Of social hope, and hate, and joint desire.
Doubt not that in his heart the patriot fire
Full often glowed! Perhaps Cassivelan
Called him to arms; perhaps the priestly choir
Inflamed his spirit, when, from clan to clan,
To heal Bonduca's woes, the word of vengeance ran!

12

Yes, he was Man! And we, who o'er him boast
Our arts, our eloquence, what are we more?
Whose eloquence hath too, too dearly cost
Our country, all distraught with Faction's roar;
Who, while our arts adventurous explore
The shrine of Nature, in self-love too fond,
Now, raised to heaven, in boundless rapture soar,
Now, earthward dashed, with coward hearts despond,
And, blind with present cares, have lost the Hope beyond!

III

13

Whoe'er thou art that, Man's primaeval state
Belittling, seek'st to magnify thine own,
Forecasting for thy race a boundless date,
Go, view the Roman's villa overthrown!
There, on some few Mosaics brightly shown,
Lingers the radiant Venus' conquering smile;
There Cupid Gladiators strive in stone,
Fresh-tinted, as when fountains flashed erewhile
In the wide Court, or cheered the marble Peristyle.

39

14

Of those proud walls, with splendour once alive,
The rain, the spade, the battle, and the mole,
All else have wasted: only these survive,
The ironic whimsy of some Roman droll.
Yet these had power to sap a Nation's soul!
Not Arms could tame the British freeman's pride,
But all-corrupting Art his fancy stole:
Luxurious Science fought on Slavery's side;
And, as his Culture grew, his manly Virtue died.

15

Petronius! was the subtle mockery thine,
That tells for ever, on this marble floor,
For what vain dust and ashes men resign
Those natural boons no Science can restore?
Well did the crafty tyrant judge thy lore,
Who bade thee leave thy Baiae's languid wave,
To brood awhile beside a barbarous shore,
And teach the rude, the generous, and the brave,
How poor a thing is life, how sweet to be a slave!

40

16

Thou monstrous spawn of Rome's imperial fate
A fiery fancy in a heart of ice!
'Twas thine, when Public Virtue left the state,
To rule the Arbiter of polished vice:
Of base desires to fix the point device;
For Lust and Sloth to twine the laurel wreath;
To publish nameless deeds in terms precise;
Ev'n for thine emptied vein and failing breath
Lingering the sweets of Song —the Epicure of death!

41

17

Strange fate, if here thy wit a weapon found
To lash the falsehood of thy falling age;
Its puny warfare with mock triumph crowned,
Its hearths profaned, its prostituted stage!
Thy sounder judgement scorned the Euphuist rage
Of honeyed words that ever blind the young:
And, while Conceit obscured the Stoic's page,
False Taste the poet's harp too highly strung—
The Satyr's lecherous art kept pure the Latin tongue.

18

No less I deem not that the Roman Peace
Our island fathers' hearts subdued in vain;
Whose iron hand bade tribal feuds to cease,
Paved the long road, and strewed the golden grain.
Thy equitable rule no orgies stain,
Agricola! no foul Proconsul's greed:
In thee Rome's Rural Genius lived again,
And Sacramental Duty; noble seed,
Henceforth on British soil nursed by a purer Creed!

IV

19

‘Not of this world my kingdom!’ Heard I not
The Evangel word descend from Heaven's blue dome,
And hover, dove-like, o'er the shrines where rot
The Art, the Lust, the Majesty of Rome?
‘Not of this world!’ Once more the echoes come,

42

The while his holy verse the shepherd sings
In these green hills of quiet Christendom,
And o'er his head the skylark shakes his wings,
And from the vale below the slender steeple springs!

20

Such sounds of old in many a Northman's breast
Prevailed, nor least in thine, Gundrada's Lord!
Whether thy spirit fled its own unrest,
Or conscience goaded with some crime abhorred,
Here, at God's shrine, thy lavish gifts were poured;
And hence the priory rose. Magnificent
Swelled the round Arch; the glowing Window soared;
And, at the Altar, meek the Warrior bent
Before the cloistered Priest who bade his soul ‘Repent!’

21

And sure if e'er, in Faith's exalted mood,
The visions that in Bethlehem came to cheer
Saint Jerome's cell, the strains that solitude
Drew earthwards for Theresa's ravished ear,
Could bring the soul the balm of Heaven —'twere here;

43

Here, where each landscape the soothed spirit fills
With rural sights to Contemplation dear,
And fainter breathes the fame of human ills,
As yon far clouds whose shadows fleck the silent hills!

22

Why roofless then remain these ivied piles
Of pinnacle and arch, the owl's abode?
The shrineless choirs, the desolated aisles,
O'er which proud Commerce drives her iron road?
What means the Monastery's fall? Has God
Stamped with this signet of His high disdain
The path that first the Saint of Nursia trod?
Springs there no Grace from penitential Pain?
Did Bernard keep his watch, did Francis fast, in vain?

23

Not so! The saints for their own ages wrought,
Sweetening the gross world with a purer leaven:
But, when the times were full, the Almighty taught
That on this earth is found no cloistered Heaven.
Few are the souls that Solitude hath shriven!
‘Love beareth all!’ And happier those abide,
And unto them Perfection's palm is given,
Who, in Temptation's fiery furnace tried,
Still in their daily walk confess the Crucified!

44

24

Church of our Fathers, to thy fame be true!
Not claiming haughty powers to loose and bind;
But like thy gentle Priest our Chaucer drew,
Mild, social, active, charitable, kind;
Not all unheedful of the People's mind,
Nor on the People's pleasure forced to wait;
Simple in Faith, by Wisdom's lore refined,
For rich for poor fulfil thine ample fate,
And breathe from age to age, the Conscience of the State!

25

Forbid it, Heaven, our eyes should see the day,
When from the hallowed Throne Religion flung
By envious sects shall lie the tortured prey
Of Priesthood's dogma, or of Faction's tongue!
That day the knell of Liberty were rung!
The State should toil with feebler heart and brain,
And all the fibres of its soul unstrung;
And Science sink; and Superstition reign:—
Then these Monastic walls perhaps should rise again!

V

26

But lo! his front the castle proudly rears,
And with unguarded rampire seems to frown,
As, o'er the gulf of twice three hundred years,
He watched the battle rolling from the down.
See, see the breathless, trembling, gazing town!

45

There, with his white-crossed warriors' fierce array,
De Montfort! here, the might of Henry's Crown!
They close, they perish! these for sceptred Sway,
For chartered Freedom those; and doubtful hangs the day.

27

'Tis past, 'tis gone! the sounds of conflict end:
And in the level sunlight, calm and sweet,
The grey romantic bulwarks gently blend
With the red roofs that nestle at their feet.
Faint sounds the murmuring commerce of the street;
Along the vale the train's far echoes roll,
Lingering; and sometimes, at the Lover's Seat,
Low laughter rises from the ash-crowned knoll;
And in the evening silence clicks the peaceful bowl.

28

Fair looks the Ruin in his calm decline;
But what red annals line his hoary stone,
Whose very moss breathes heriot and fine,
The liege's tallage and the vassal's moan!
On such a rugged soil was Freedom sown!
From civil conflict sprung the Realm's accord;
The armèd Manor checked the lawless Throne:
Home truth spoke once yon Castle's haughty lord,
‘If titles rust in peace, the rust is on a sword!’

46

29

Stout-hearted chief of England's warlike peers,
Be every noble's accent clear as thine!
Breathe thou thy spirit from the far-off years
To where unbroken runs thy lordly line!
Still in thy keep Fitzalan's heirs combine
Their banners old; still on their jewelled shields
Familiar crest, ancestral motto shine;
And quartered Cheque, on or and azure fields,
Claims for Earl Warren's race the tribute Fealty yields!

47

30

‘Ne vile velis!’ ‘Look thou upward still!’
‘Invicta virtus!’ ‘Manly then remain!’
‘Jour de ma vie!’ ‘Thy day's high task fulfil!’
With words like these can England's Noblesse wane?
O you, the scions of each vigorous strain,
Whose sires on sea and shore have fought and bled,
Or for their country toiled with statesman's brain,
Still lead the sons of those your fathers led,
Who hear in yours the footsteps of the famous dead!

31

Should blood like yours degenerate, better far
To blot the memory of each manful deed!
How vain the lustre of a Cross or Star
On bosoms bursting with a placeman's greed!
See now, how Lies, Dishonour, Treason, speed!
Yet nerveless drifts the ermined demagogue,
Heading the maddened crowd he dares not laed;
And leaves the Throne to sink, a foundering log,
Where Faction spreads around her vast unfathomed bog!

32

By Gold and Envy thrust from Britain's shore,
Sad Chivalry, with slow departing flight,
Claims a last refuge where she rose of yore,
And finds on German ground one patriot Knight.
O! for a voice like his with manly might,

48

And truth, too long to England's councils strange,
To plead, a later Pitt, our Sovereign's right,
Our Country's cause! —Vain Fancy, check thy range,
And paint in homelier haunts the broadening stream of change!

VI

33

That house was Delia's, last of all her name,
To her lone hand bequeathed through many sires;
There seventy years she dwelt in virgin fame,
Fair daughter of a race of ruddy squires.
Few were their tastes, and artless their desires;
A stock deep-rooted like their forest oak;
Remote from foreign customs of the shires,
And foemen by their blood to outland folk,
Who scorned not wooden shoes, nor Christian English spoke.

49

34

Not yet had London taught the rural Thane
To sigh for charms across the county bound.
Content they watched, like old Verona's swain,
Sunrise and sunset on their fathers' ground.
Yet sometimes, resting from the horn and hound,
Or loosed from business of the sylvan sphere,
More social joys in yonder walls they found;
Here would they swell the gay Assembly, here
Would greet the welcome spring, or speed the waning year.

35

Of wider worlds beyond their ingle's nook
But little did they hear, and nothing read;
Yet mightier fame at time their bosoms shook,
Of Lisbon ruined, or of Robespierre dead;
And when, with patriot laurels garlanded,
From north to south the Mail exultant flew,
And east and west the fiery message sped,
Belfrey to belfry pealed the county through,
And Albuera roared, or thundered Waterloo!

36

And Delia's self? Methinks I see the Maid,
Even in her winter wrinkles kind and fair;

50

Her gold-topped cane; her petticoat's brocade;
Her silver snuff-box; and her powdered hair.
Much could she tell of each presumptive heir
In every County House; nor would forget
The name of one tenth cousin in her prayer;
On Heaven and Heraldry her soul was set;
And each by heart she knew her Bible and Debrett.

37

Long has she vanished with her pride of birth,
And vanished, too, her far descended race.
Hushed are the scenes of once familiar mirth;
Of all those genial hours of courtly grace
No memory lingers. To what uses base
The scutcheoned Parlour turns! With drudging quill
The Legal Genius grimly rules the place;
And, on the tables sacred to Quadrille,
Drones o'er the mouldered Deed, or drafts the dying Will.

VII

38

To all their ashes peace! And peace to thine,
Proud Crier, huge in triple cape bedight,
And thee, whose voice gave wakeful ears the sign
Of each slow hour that wore the weary night!
Gone, too, I know, is old Manorial Right.

51

Where is thy Guild, grey Town? thy Freemen, where?
Can Fur and Chain thy fancy more delight
Than Borough, Reeve and Constable? Forbear!
Nor pray the scornful Muse to celebrate a—Mayor!

39

Her rather urge in elegiac lay
To mourn forgotten Feasts; when Twelfth Night's been
Proclaimed the Revel's Monarch; or May Day
Decked the gay sweep, and chose the floral Queen.
Few were thy maids at Midsummer, I ween,
But with propitious hemp seed strewed the ground.
Or watched the burning nuts on Hallowe'en:
No swain but Christmas Eve with lamb's wool crown'd;
And shivered in the sun when Candlemas came round.

40

Nor has it pleased thy sons to quite unlearn
All festal records of their fathers' fame.
Still, when November's misty Nones return,
Thy streets at midnight leap with joyous flame:
The shadowed hills a lurid landscape frame,

52

As now the blazing tar reveals the slope,
Now rises from the crowd the wild acclaim,
While thy grave Bishop, girt with crook and cope,
Exhorts on fiery pile an unrecanting Pope.

41

But more poetic scenes of pastoral care
Are thine, when all the Weald has ceased to reap,
And Autumn brings the Equinoctial Fair.
Then every downland farm and valley deep,
Thousands on thousands drive their banded sheep;
A wattled camp blockades the green hill-side,
Where each his charge the serge-clad shepherds keep;
A lone, religious race, dark-haired, sad-eyed;
And near, with upward gaze, their ready dogs abide.

42

There may you Damon see with Thyrsis stand,
To sell and buy, if Fortune hit the mean,
Probing the woolly backs with critic hand,
One quick to glory, one to censure keen.
This way and that the vantage seems to lean;

53

Now tends the conflict to conclusion fair;
But still the doubtful sixpence hangs between;
Once more the part, return, debate, compare—
Then close, and joyful toast the bargain at the ‘Bear’.

VIII

43

Genius of Local Life, on whom the first
The links of feudal charity depend;
Whose generous soil our early freedom nursed,
And mutual faith of master, servant, friend!
Once 'twas the Briton's pride, the patriot's end,
To see rich harvests whiten at his door,
Fair profits, made at home, at home to spend,
And feed the English realm from English store,
No parasite or slave of any foreign shore.

44

Time was! But lo! a loftier age succeeds,
Refined with art, in luxury grown old;
The world itself scarce sates our pampered needs;
Gain all our tillage, all our harvest Gold!
Therefore no more the rural year is told
By Calendar and Saint: more rare the swains,
That tend the rusted plough, the dwindling fold:
Deep in their bosoms smoulder sullen pains:
Their native fields they leave: the Feudal Order wanes.

45

To various climes their Fortune bids them roam;
Yet is not Love nor old Remembrance dead;
And oft some pensive spirit turns to Home;
Whether by Burma's shrines in arms he tread;
Or keep, in Athabasca's pine-built shed,

54

White Yule; or, with his flock, on upland brown,
Find 'neath the Southern Cross a wandering bed;
Then comes some vision of his far-off town;
And in his dreams he hears the voices of the Down.

46

Once more, the long unbroken lonely line,
With rain-beat corn-rick dark against the sky,
His prospect bounds; he breathes the Channel brine;
And, wind-like, hears the plover's wail float by.
Hark! did some watch-dog send a far reply
From homestead hid remote in yonder combe?
He starts from slumber. 'Twas the dingo's cry:
The yellow gorse is gone; and, in its room,
The gum-tree towers above; the giant nettles bloom.

47

Transformed, not dead, from generations gone
By Memory brought, we know not how nor whence,
The Soul of Feudal Liberty lives on,
The Nation's shield, the Empire's ‘cheap defence’.
Victoria's vassals lo !—a league immense—
Who of their Mother, England, hold in fee,
Bound by one Crown, one Tongue, one Patriot Sense;
Thrice happy! Happier yet, if time shall see
One Federated Realm, the Empire of the Free!

48

Warmed by their fire, old Town, thy kindred blood
Shall through thy shrunken veins more swiftly play,
And rouse again thy youth's green lustihood
In Sydney's art, in Melbourne's growing sway.
Thine is the sunset, theirs the coming day;

55

Thou only canst remember, they forecast;
Yet in their ears thy worn memorials say—
The living cradle of their buried past—
That Death, howe'er he halt, to all must come at last.

49

As when, up-welling from his fountain deeps,
The Infant River leaves his native snows,
And down the rocks in sun-bright freedom leaps,
While from a thousand streams his volume grows.
Now distant seem the mountains where he rose;
Now slow he lingers on the pleasant lea;
Now through the busy town majestic flows;
Then, sudden, feels the tide by wharf and quay,
And hears far off the murmur of the mighty Sea.
 

[Lewes.]

These birds were, in times that the writer can remember, caught in great numbers by the shepherds on the South Downs. The trap was cut in the form of a T, with a noose of wool or horse-hair. The wheat-ear was popularly supposed to run under the raised turf for shelter when a cloud passed over the sun. It is now a rare bird in this district.

The great Forest of Anderida, named by the Saxons Andred's Wald, which spread over what is still called the ‘Weald’ of Sussex. The downs in the neighbourhood are covered with tumuli.

Ethnologists and optimists endeavour to represent barbarous Man as little superior to the beast, in order to conclude that the human race has reached the half-way house on the road to Utopia. (See, for instance, Sir J. Lubbock's Prehistoric Times.) This is surely as unwarrantable as Rousseau's extravagant exaltation of savage life. Sir H. Maine has recently shown very conclusively how superficial are the differences between Men in the primitive and in the refined stages of national growth. (See Popular Government, p. 143.)

A writer in the Quarterly Review for January (p. 197) shows from Caesar (De Bell. Gall. vi. 19) that the law of the Celtic races was founded on Patria potestas.

These designs, perfectly preserved, were found under the South Downs in 1811. They still remain on the spot; but it is much to be desired that some steps be taken for securing them against the inevitable destruction that awaits them from natural causes.

The fascination exercised by Roman Culture on the British imagination is vividly described by Tacitus:

‘Iam vero Principum filios liberalibus artibus erudire, et ingenia Britannorum studiis Gallorum anteferre, ut qui modo linguam Romanam abnuebant, eloquentiam concupiscerent. Inde etiam habitus nostri honor et frequens toga: paulatimque discessum ad delenimenta vitiorum, porticus et balnea et conviviorum elegantiam; idque apud imperitos humanitas voca. batur, cum pars servitutis esset.’— Agricola, 21.

A very admirable and ingenious paper by the Rev. Thomas Debary, in the Sussex Archaelogical Collections (vol. xxx), gives us some grounds for supposing that the Villa was the work of Petronius Turpilianus, who was certainly one of the earliest Governors of Britain, being sent by Nero to succeed Suetonius Paulinus, ‘tamquam exorabilior’ (Agricola, 16). From the glimpses Tacitus gives of his character and public position as one of the favourites of Nero, it seems most probable that he is the same as Caius Petronius of whose death the historian draws so graphic a picture. Everything, again, seems to identify the latter with Petronius Arbiter. We may, therefore, at least please our imaginations with supposing that the writer who so admirably described Trimalchio's Dinner was the inventor of these designs, the graceful simplicity of which is quite characteristic of his taste. About the time of Petronius' governorship, we are told, ‘Didicere iam barbari quoque ignoscere vitiis blandientibus’ (Agricola, 16).

Tacitus says of him (Annals, xvi. 18): ‘His own vices, or his imitation of the vices of others, procured for him, as a judge of taste, the closest intimacy with Nero, who, satiated as he was, thought nothing agreeable or refined till it had received the approval of Petronius.’

‘Illi dies per somnum, nox officiis et oblectamentis vitae transigebatur; utque alios industria, ita hunc ignavia ad famam protulerat.’— Annals, xvi. 18.

‘To linger’ is used transitively by Shakespeare, Midsummer Night's Dream, Act i, sc. I, v. 4; Richard II, Act ii, sc. 2, v. 72.

For the account of Petronius' suicide see Tacitus, Annals, xvi. 19: ‘Far from dispatching himself instantaneously, he made an incision in his veins, binding them up and opening them at pleasure while he conversed with his friends, though in no serious mood, nor with any attempt to gain a reputation for fortitude. He listened in turn while they discoursed, not on the immortality of the soul or the reasonings of philosophers, but in light song and flowing verse. . . . He feasted and indulged in sleep; so that the death which he was forced to undergo might seem to come upon him unawares.

Petronius was himself granted a Triumph by the Senate at the instigation of Nero.—Tacitus, Annals, xv. 72.

He laughs at the ‘mellitos verborum globulos’ so much in favour with the writers of his age, as they are with those of our own. The sound critical judgement shown in Petronius Arbiter is what we should expect after reading the account Tacitus gives of his character.

William, first Earl of Warren, married Gundrada, daughter of William the Conqueror.

The great Cluniac Monastery, founded by William de Warren in 1072, and dedicated to St. Pancras. It was most richly endowed by the Earl and his descendants, and with its walls and enclosures covered over thirty acres, on the outskirts of the town here described.

Gundrada's epitaph says:

‘Stirps Gundrada ducum, decus aevi, nobile germen, intulit ecclesiis Anglorum balsama morum.’

She died in childbirth, the 27th of May 1085, and was buried within the walls of the Priory.

The Monastery of St. Pancras was surrendered by the Prior to Henry VIII in 1538, and was granted by the King to Cromwell. A few ruined arches are now all that remains of what must once have been one of the grandest monasteries in England. The London, Brighton and South Coast Railway runs over the site.

St. Benedict, of whose monastic order the Cluniac was a development.

1 Corinthians xiii. 7.

2 Corinthians xi. 3; St. Matthew x. 16.

The Castle built by William de Warren, who, after the Conquest, became Lord of the Town.

Alluding to the great and stubbornly contested battle fought on the spot in 1264 between Henry III and his Barons under Simon de Montfort; one result of which was the direct representation of the people in Parliament. De Montfort made his soldiers mark their breasts with white crosses.

The Castle precincts are now converted to the peaceful purposes here described. The Bowling Green is in fact one of the old institutions of the Town.

A speech attributed to John de Warren, seventh Lord of the Town, when Edward I employed Commissioners to make inquiry through the kingdom by what title or warrant (‘quo warranto’) the landowners held their estates. Holinshed tells the story: ‘Many were thus called to answer, till at length the Lord John Warren, Earle of Surrey, a man greatly beloved of the people, perceyving the Kynge to have caste his net for a preye, and that there was not one whyche spake against those so bitter and cruell proceedings; and, therefore, being called afore the Justices about this matter, and being asked by what right he held his landes? he sodenly drawing forth an old rusty sword, “By this instrument”, sayde he, “doe I holde my landes, and by the same I entende to defende them.” ’ It was after this speech that the Warren family assumed their motto of ‘Tenebo’.

Two of the present Lords of the Town have rights over threefourths of the Castle, Town, and Lordship, by direct inheritance, through the marriage of their ancestors with Joanna and Margaret, heiresses in 1415 of Thomas Fitzalan, Earl of Arundel, whose grandfather derived his right from Alice, sister of John, eighth and last Earl of Warren, who died without lawful issue in 1347. A title, dating from the Conquest, of nearly thirty generations! Sir Richard Sackville, ancestor of the third Lord in the present day, and father of Thomas Sackville, famous as a statesman and a poet, who was created Baron of Buckhurst in Sussex, obtained the remaining fourth of the lordship, either by grant or purchase, in the reign of Elizabeth. His descendants became Dukes of Dorset.

The arms of Warren, quartered on the Duke of Norfolk's shield.

The mottoes of the present Lords of the Town. It is almost needless to add that what follows is meant to apply to the historic English aristocracy generally.

‘In ordinary circumstances,’ said Prince Bismarck in the Prussian Diet on January 28th, [1886] ‘I should be no advocate of such a policy; but when the cause of the Fatherland is imperilled, I will not hesitate to give the Emperor [William I] becoming advice. That minister would be a miserable coward who did not risk his head to save his country in despite even of the will of a majority.’ In England politicians seem to have forgotten the existence of such an institution as the Crown. With us ‘all are for the Party, none are for the State’.

Old folk in Sussex still speak of the inhabitants of other counties as ‘foreigners’, and have a proper contempt for the ‘sheres’.

The two points of inferiority in the French nation generally insisted on by English writers in the early part of the eighteenth century were the want of political liberty and the wooden shoes of the peasantry.

Idem condit ager soles, idemque reducit;
metiturque suo rusticus orbe diem.

Claudian, De Sene Veronensi. [see pp. 96-7].

A friend of mine tells me he has often heard one of his aunts speak of the profound emotion aroused in the neighbourhood of her home—she was a girl of fourteen at the time—when the Portsmouth coach passed on its way to London with the tidings that ‘Robert Spires’ was dead. Wordsworth, in the Prelude, also describes the tremendous effect produced by the news.

See De Quincey's fine description of the Mail Coach ‘going down with victory’.

A common transformation. The Town is full of fine old houses of pleasure, now converted into houses of business.

The last of the old Watchmen lingered on, an institution of his native Town, till quite recently. Besides crying the hour, he announced, for the benefit of those comfortably housed, the state of things out of doors: ‘Ten of the clock! 'Tis a fine starry night!’

Like many other ancient boroughs, the Town, not long since, exchanged a feudal Constitution, dating from the Conquest, and truly Venetian in its character, for a commonplace Mayor and Corporation.

Old customs on St. John Baptist's Day, and All Saints' Day, for divining luck in marriage.

The mixture of apple, nutmeg, and sugar in the wassail bowl.

A common countryside belief, curiously encouraged by the experience of the present year [1886], is preserved in the old rhyming hexameters:

‘Si sol splendescat Maria purificante,
maior erit glacies post festum quam fuit ante.’

Sixteen persons in all were burned in the Town in three years under Bloody Mary. Its inhabitants have never forgotten these tragedies, which they commemorate every year, on the Fifth of November, with a zest beyond any place in England, by burning the Pope, in the manner described, on the spot where the martyrs suffered. The ‘Bishop’ who officiates at the function is attired in full ecclesiastical costume, and, as the whole town is in masquerade, the scene is extraordinarily picturesque.

A great Sheep Fair for the South Down district is held on the heights above the Town on the last two Tuesdays of every September. The number of sheep collected is very large. I have myself seen over thirty thousand penned there, but formerly the number was much greater.