| CHAPTER I. 
LONDON. The prose works of N.P. Willis | ||
1. CHAPTER I. 
LONDON.
There is an inborn and inbred distrust of “foreigners” 
in England—continental foreigners, I should say 
—which keeps the current of French and Italian society 
as distinct amid the sea of London, as the blue 
Rhone in Lake Leman. The word “foreigner,” in 
England, conveys exclusively the idea of a dark-complexioned 
and whiskered individual, in a frogged coat 
and distressed circumstances; and to introduce a 
smooth-cheeked, plainly-dressed, quiet-looking person 
by that name, would strike any circle of ladies and 
gentlemen as a palpable misnomer. The violent and 
unhappy contrast between the Parisian's mode of life 
in London and in Paris, makes it very certain that few 
of those bien nés et convenablement riches will live in 
London for pleasure; and then the flood of political 
émigrés, for the last half century, has monopolised 
hair-dressing, &c., &c., to such a degree, that the 
word Frenchman is synonymous in English ears with 
barber and dancing-master. If a dark gentleman, 
wearing either whisker or mustache, chance of offend 
John Bull in the street, the first opprobrious language 
he hears—the strongest that occurs to the fellow's 
mind—is, “Get out, you — Frenchman!”
All this, malgré the rage for foreign lions in London 
society. A well-introduced foreigner gets easily into 
this, and while he keeps his cabriolet and confines 
himself to frequenting soirées and accepting invitations 
to dine, he will never suspect that he is not on an 
equal footing with any “milor” in London. If he 
wishes to be disenchanted, he has only to change his 
lodgings from Long's to Great Russell street; or (bitterer 
and readier trial) to propose marriage to the 
honorable Augusta or Lady Fanny.
Everybody who knows the society of Paris, knows 
something of a handsome and very elegant young 
baron of the Faubourg St. Germain, who, with small 
fortune, very great taste, and greater credit, contrived 
to go on very swimmingly as an adorable roué and 
vaurien till he was hard upon twenty-five. At the 
first crisis in his affairs, the ladies, who hold all the 
politics in their laps, got him appointed consul to 
Algiers, or minister to Venezuela, and with this pretty 
pretext for selling his horses and dressing-gowns, these 
cherished articles brought twice their original value, 
saved his loyauté, and set him up in fans and monkeys 
at his place of exile. A year of this was enough for 
the darling of Paris, and not more than a day before 
his desolate loves would have ceased to mourn for 
him, he galloped into his hotel with a new fashion of 
whiskers, a black female slave, and the most delicious 
histories of his adventures during the ages he had 
been exiled. Down to the earth and their previous 
obscurity dropped the rivals who were just beginning 
to usurp his glories. A new stud, an indescribable 
vehicle, a suite of rooms à l'Africaine, and a mystery, 
preserved at some expense, about his negress, kept all 
Paris, including his new creditors, in admiring astonishment 

not the last or least fervent, were the fair-haired
and glowing beauties who assemble at the levées of
their ambassador in the Rue St. Honoré, and upon
whom le beau Adolphe had looked as pretty savages,
whose frightful toilets and horrid French accent
might be tolerated one evening in the week—vu le
souper!
Eclipses will arrive as calculated by insignificant 
astronomers, however, and debts will become due as 
presumed by vulgar tradesmen. Le beau Adolphe 
began to see another crisis, and betook himself to his 
old advisers, who were desolés to the last degree; but 
there was a new government, and the blood of the 
Faubourg was at a discount. No embassies were to 
be had for nothing. With a deep sigh, and a gentle 
tone, to spare his feelings as much as possible, his 
friend ventures to suggest to him that it will be necessary 
to sacrifice himself.
“Ahi! mais comment!”
“Marry one of these bête Anglaises, who drink 
you up with their great blue eyes, and are made of 
gold!”
Adolphe buried his face in his gold-fringed oriental 
pocket-handkerchief; but when the first agony was 
passed, his resolution was taken, and he determined to 
go to England. The first beautiful creature he should 
see, whose funds were enormous and well-invested, 
should bear away from all the love, rank, and poverty 
of France, the perfumed hand he looked upon.
A flourishing letter, written in a small, cramped 
hand, but with a seal on whose breadth of wax and 
blazon all the united heraldry of France was interwoven, 
arrived, through the ambassador's despatch 
box, to the address of Miladi —, Belgrave square, 
announcing, in full, that le beau Adolphe was coming 
to London to marry the richest heiress in good society; 
and as Paris could not spare him more than a 
week, he wished those who had daughters to marry, 
answering the description, to be bien prévenus of his 
visit and errand. With the letter came a compend of 
his genealogy, from the man who spoke French in the 
confusion of Babel to le dit Baron Adolphe.
To London came the valet of le beau baron, two 
days before his master, bringing his slippers and dressing-gown 
to be aired after their sea-voyage across the 
channel. To London followed the irresistible youth, 
cursing, in the politest French, the necessity which 
subtracted a week from a life measured with such 
“diamond sparks” as his own in Paris. He sat himself 
down in his hotel, sent his man Porphyre with his 
card to every noble and rich house, whose barbarian 
tenants he had ever seen in the Champs Elysées, and 
waited the result. Invitations from fair ladies, who 
remembered him as the man the French belles were 
mad about, and from literary ladies, who wanted his 
whiskers and black eyes to give their soirées the necessary 
foreign complexion, flowed in on all sides, and 
Monsieur Adolphe selected his most mignon cane and 
his happiest design in a stocking, and “rendered himself” 
through the rain like a martyr.
No offers of marriage the first evening!
None the second!!
None the third!!!
Le beau Adolphe began to think either that English 
papas did not propose their daughters to people as in 
France; or, perhaps, that the lady whom he had commissioned 
to circulate his wishes had not sufficiently 
advertised him. She had, however.
He took advice, and found it would be necessary to 
take the first step himself. This was disagreeable, 
and he said to himself, “Le jeu ne vaut pas le chandelle;” 
but his youth was passing, and his English 
fortune was at interest.
He went to Almack's and proposed to the first 
authenticated fortune that accepted his hand for a 
 waltz. The young lady first laughed, and then told 
her mother, who told her son, who thought it an insult, 
and called out le beau Adolphe, very much to the 
astonishment of himself and Porphyre. The thing 
was explained, and the baron looked about the next 
day for one pas si bête. Found a young lady with 
half a million sterling, proposed in a morning call, 
and was obliged to ring for assistance, his intended 
having gone into convulsions with laughing at him. 
The story by this time had got pretty well distributed 
through the different strata of London society; and 
when le beau Adolphe convinced that he would not 
succeed with the noble heiresses of Belgrave square, 
condescended, in his extremity, to send his heart by 
his valet to a rich little vulgarian, who “never had a 
grandfather,” and lived in Harley street, he narrowly 
escaped being prosecuted for a nuisance, and, Paris 
being now in the possession of the enemy, he buried 
his sorrows in Belgium. After a short exile his friends 
procured him a vice-consulate in some port in the 
north sea, and there probably at this moment he sorrowfully 
vegetates.
This is not a story founded upon fact, but literally 
true. Many of the circumstances came under my own 
observation; and the whole thus affords a laughable 
example of the esteem in which what an English fox-hunter 
would call a “trashy Frenchman” is held in 
England, as well as of the travestie produced by transplanting 
the usages of one country to another.
Ridiculous as any intimate mixture of English and 
French ideas and persons seems to be in London, the 
foreign society of itself in that capital is exceedingly 
spiritual and agreeable. The various European embassies 
and their attachés, with their distinguished 
travellers, from their several countries, accidentally 
belonging to each; the French and Italians, married 
to English noblemen and gentry, and living in London, 
and the English themselves, who have become 
cosmopolite by residence in other countries, form a 
very large society in which mix, on perfectly equal 
terms, the first singers of the opera, and foreign musicians 
and artists generally. This last circumstance 
gives a peculiar charm to these reunions, though it 
imparts a pride and haughty bearing to the prima 
donna and her fraternity, which is, at least, sometimes 
very inconvenient to themselves. The remark recalls 
to my mind a scene I once witnessed in London, 
which will illustrate the feeling better than an essay 
upon it.
I was at one of those private concerts given at an 
enormous expense during the opera season, at which 
“assisted” Julia Grisi, Rubini, Lablache, Tamburini, 
and Ivanhoff. Grisi came in the carriage of a foreign 
lady of rank, who had dined with her, and she walked 
into the room looking like an empress. She was 
dressed in the plainest white, with her glossy hair put 
smooth from her brow, and a single white japonica 
dropped over one of her temples. The lady who 
brought her chaperoned her during the evening, as if 
she had been her daughter, and under the excitement 
of her own table and the kindness of her friends, she 
sung with a rapture and a freshet of glory (if one may 
borrow a word from the Mississippi) which set all 
hearts on fire. She surpassed her most applauded 
hour on the stage—for it was worth her while. The 
audience was composed, almost exclusively, of those 
who are not only cultivated judges, but who sometimes 
repay delight with a present of diamonds.
Lablache shook the house to its foundations in his 
turn; Rubini ran through his miraculous compass 
with the ease, truth, and melody, for which his singing 
is unsurpassed; Tamburini poured his rich and even 
fulness on the ear, and Russian Ivanhoff, the one 
southern singing-bird who has come out of the north, 
wire-drew his fine and spiritual notes, till they who had 
been flushed, and tearful, and silent, when the others 

of exclamation and surprise.
The concert was over by twelve, the gold and silver 
paper bills of the performance were turned into fans, and 
every one was waiting till supper should be announced 
—the prima donna still sitting by her friend, but surrounded 
by foreign attachés, and in the highest elation 
at her own success. The doors of an inner suite of 
rooms were thrown open at last, and Grisi's cordon of 
admirers prepared to follow her in and wait on her at 
supper. At this moment, one of the powdered menials 
of the house stepped up and informed her very respectfully 
that supper was prepared in a separate room for 
the singers!
Medea, in her most tragic hour, never stood so 
absolutely the picture of hate as did Grisi for a single 
instant, in the centre of that aristocratic crowd. Her 
chest swelled and rose, her lips closed over her snowy 
teeth, and compressed till the blood left them, and, for 
myself, I looked unconsciously to see where she would 
strike. I knew, then, that there was more than fancy 
—there was nature and capability of the real—in the 
imaginary passions she plays so powerfully. A laugh 
of extreme amusement at the scene from the highborn 
woman who had accompanied her, suddenly 
turned her humor, and she stopped in the midst of a 
muttering of Italian, in which I could distinguish 
only the terminations, and, with a sort of theatrical 
quickness of transition, joined heartily in her mirth. 
It was immediately proposed by this lady, however, 
that herself and their particular circle should join the 
insulted prima donna at the lower table, and they succeeded 
by this manœuvre in retaining Rubini and the 
others, who were leaving the house in a most unequivocal 
Italian fury.
I had been fortunate enough to be included in the 
invitation, and, with one or two foreign diplomatic 
men, I followed Grisi and her amused friend to a 
small room on a lower floor, that seemed to be the 
housekeeper's parlor. Here supper was set for six 
(including the man who had played the piano), and 
on the side-table stood every variety of wine and fruit, 
and there was nothing in the supper, at least, to make 
us regret the table we had left. With a most imperative 
gesture and rather an amusing attempt at 
English, Grisi ordered the servants out of the room, 
and locked the door, and from that moment the conversation 
commenced and continued in their own 
musical, passionate, and energetic Italian. My long 
residence in that country had made me at home in it; 
every one present spoke it fluently; and I had an 
opportunity I might never have again, of seeing with 
what abandonment these children of the sun throw 
aside rank and distinction (yet without forgetting it), 
and join with those who are their superiors in every 
circumstance of life, in the gayeties of a chance hour.
Out of their own country these singers would probably 
acknowledge no higher rank than that of the kind 
and gifted lady who was their guest; yet, with the 
briefest apology at finding the room too cold after the 
heat of the concert, they put on their cloaks and hats 
as a safeguard to their lungs (more valuable to them 
than to others); and as most of the cloaks were the 
worse for travel, and the hats opera-hats with two 
corners, the grotesque contrast with the diamonds of 
one lady, and the radiant beauty of the other, may 
easily be imagined.
Singing should be hungry work, by the knife and 
fork they played; and between the excavations of 
truffle pies, and the bumpers of champagne and burgundy, 
the words were few. Lablache appeared to be 
an established droll, and every syllable he found time 
to utter was received with the most unbounded laughter. 
Rubini could not recover from the slight he conceived 
put upon him and his profession by the separate table; 
and he continually reminded Grisi, who by this time 
 had quite recovered her good humor, that, the night 
before, supping at Devonshire house, the duke of 
Wellington had held her gloves on one side, while his 
grace, their host attended to her on the other.
“E vero!” said Ivanhoff, with a look of modest admiration 
at the prima donna.
“E vero, e bravo!” cried Tamburini, with his sepulchral-talking 
tone, much deeper than his singing.
“Si, si, si, bravo!” echoed all the company; and 
the haughty and happy actress nodded all round with 
a radiant smile, and repeated, in her silver tones, 
“Grazie! cari amici! grazie!”
As the servants had been turned out, the removalof 
the first course was managed in pic-nic fashion; 
and when the fruit and fresh bottles of wine were set 
upon the table by the attachés, and younger gentlemen, 
the health of the princess who honored them by 
her presence was proposed in that language, which, it 
seems to me, is more capable than all others of expressing 
affectionate and respectful devotion. All uncovered 
and stood up, and Grisi, with tears in her eyes, 
kissed the hand of her benefactress and friend, and 
drank her health in silence.
It is a polite and common accomplishment in Italy 
to improvise in verse, and the lady I speak of is well 
known among her immediate friends for a singular 
facility in this beautiful art. She reflected a moment 
or two with the moisture in her eyes, and then commenced, 
low and soft, a poem, of which it would be 
difficult, nay impossible, to convey, in English, an 
idea of its music and beauty. It took us back to Italy, 
to its heavenly climate, its glorious arts, its beauty and 
its ruins, and concluded with a line of which I remember 
the sentiment to have been, “out of Italy every 
land is exile!”
The glasses were raised as she ceased, and every 
one repeated after her, “Fuori d'Italia tutto e esilio!”
“Ma!” cried out the fat Lablache, holding up his 
glass of champagne, and looking through it with one 
eye, “siamo ben esiliati qua!” and, with a word of 
drollery, the party recovered its gayer tone, and the 
humor and wit flowed on brilliantly as before.
The house had long been still, and the last carriage 
belonging to the company above stairs had rolled from 
the door, when Grisi suddenly remembered a bird that 
she had lately bought, of which she proceeded to give 
us a description, that probably penetrated to every 
corner of the silent mansion. It was a mocking-bird, 
that had been kept two years in the opera-house, and 
between rehearsal and performance had learned parts 
of everything it had overheard. It was the property 
of the woman who took care of the wardrobes. Grisi 
had accidentally seen it, and immediately purchased 
it for two guineas. How much of embellishment there 
was in her imitations of her treasure I do not know; 
but certainly the whole power of her wondrous voice, 
passion, and knowledge of music, seemed drunk up at 
once in the wild, various, difficult, and rapid mixture 
of the capricious melody she undertook. First came, 
without the passage which it usually terminates, the 
long, throat-down, gurgling, water-toned trill, in which 
Rubini (but for the bird and its mistress, it seemed to 
me) would have been inimitable: then, right upon it, 
as if it were the beginning of a bar, and in the most 
unbreathing continuity, followed a brilliant passage 
from the Barber of Seville, run into the passionate 
prayer of Anna Bolena in her madness, and followed 
by the air of “Suoni la tromba intrepida,” the tremendous 
duet in the Puritani, between Tamburini and 
Lablache. Up to the sky, and down to the earth 
again—away with a note of the wildest gladness, and 
back upon a note of the most touching melancholy— 
if the bird but half equals the imitation of his mistress, 
he were worth the jewel in a sultan's turban.
“Giulia!” “Giulietta!” “Giuliettina!” cried out 
one and another, as she ceased, expressing in their 

by her incomparable execution.
The stillness of the house in the occasional pauses 
of conversation reminded the gay party, at last, that it 
was wearing late. The door was unlocked, and the 
half-dozen sleepy footmen hanging about the hall were 
despatched for the cloaks and carriages; the drowsy 
porter was roused from his deep leathern dormeuse, 
and opened the door—and broad upon the street lay 
the cold gray light of a summer's morning. I declined 
an offer to be set down by a friend's cab, and strolled 
off to Hyde Park to surprise myself with a sunrise; 
balancing the silent rebuke in the fresh and healthy 
countenances of early laborers going to their toil, 
against the effervescence of a champagne hour, which, 
since such come so rarely, may come, for me, with 
what untimeliness they please.
| CHAPTER I. 
LONDON. The prose works of N.P. Willis | ||