Section 19. (6) Dress.
It is easy to write a book on the significance of a man's clothes
as the expression of his inner state. It is said that the character
of a woman is to be known from her shoe, but actually the matter
reaches far beyond the shoe, to every bit of clothing, whether of
one sex or the other. The penologist has more opportunity than
any one else to observe how people dress, to take notes concerning
the wearer, and finally to correct his impressions by means of the
examination. In this matter one may lay down certain axioms. If
we see a man whose coat is so patched that the original material
is no longer visible but the coat nowhere shows a hole; if his shirt
is made of the very coarsest and equally patched material but is clean;
and if his shoes are very bad but are whole and well polished,
we should consider him and his wife as honest people, without ever
making an error. We certainly see very little wisdom in our modern
painfully attired "sports," we suspect the suggestively dressed
woman of some little disloyalty to her husband, and we certainly
expect no low inclinations from the lady dressed with intelligent,
simple respectability. If a man's general appearance is correct it
indicates refinement and attention to particular things. Anybody
who considers this question finds daily new information and new
and reliable inferences. Anyway, everybody has a different viewpoint
in this matter, a single specific detail being convincing to
one, to another only when taken in connection with something else,
and to a third when connected with still a third phenomenon. It
may be objected that at least detailed and prolonged observations
are necessary before inferences should be drawn from the way of
dressing, inasmuch as a passing inclination, economic conditions,
etc., may exert no little influence by compelling an individual to
a specific choice in dress. Such influence is not particularly deep.
A person subject to a particular inclination may be sufficiently
self-exhibiting under given circumstances, and that he was compelled
by his situation to dress in one way rather than another is
equally self-evident. Has anybody seen an honest farm hand
wearing a worn-out evening coat? He may wear a most threadbare,
out-worn sheep-skin, but a dress-coat he certainly would
not buy, even if he could get it cheap, nor would he take it as a
gift. He leaves such clothes to others whose shabby elegance shows
at a glance what they are. Consider how characteristic are the
clothes of discharged soldiers, of hunters, of officials, etc. Who
fails to recognize the dress of a real clerical, of democrats, of
conservative-aristocrats? Their dress is everywhere as well defined
as the clothing of Englishmen, Frenchmen, Germans, and Americans,
formed not by climatic conditions but by national character in a
specific and quite unalterable way. Conceit, carelessness, cleanliness,
greasiness, anxiety, indifference, respectability, the desire to
attract attention and to be original, all these and innumerable
similar and related qualities express themselves nowhere so powerfully
and indubitably as in the way people wear their clothes. And
not all the clothes together; many a time a single item of dress
betrays a character.
