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OF THE HAWKING OF TEA.
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OF THE HAWKING OF TEA.

"Persons hawking tea without a licence" (see Chitty's Edition of "Burn's Justice," vol. ii.
p. 1113) "are liable to a penalty, under 50 Geo.
III., cap. 41.; and, even though they had a
licence, they would be liable to a penalty for
selling tea in an unentered place." The penalty
under this act is 10l., but the prohibition in ques-
tion has long been commonly, if not very directly,
evaded.

The hawking of tea in London cannot be con-
sidered as immediately a street-trade, but it is
in some respects blended with street callings
and street traffic, so that a brief account is neces-
sary.

I will first give a short history of what is, or
was, more intimately a portion of the street-
trade.

Until about eight or ten years ago, tea was ex-
tensively hawked — from house to house almost —
"on tally." The tally system is, that wherein
"weekly payments" are taken in liquidation of
the cost of the article purchased, and the trade is
one embodying much of evil and much of trickery.
At the present time the tallymen are very nu-
merous in London, and in the tally trade there
are now not less than 1000 hawkers of, or tra-
vellers in, tea; but they carry on their business
principally in the suburbs. When I come to treat
of the class whom I have called "distributors," I
shall devote an especial inquiry to the tally trade,
including, of course, the tea trade. Mr. M`Culloch
mentions that a Scotchman's "tally-walk" — and
the majority of the tallymen are Scotchmen — is
worth 15 per cent. more than an Englishman's.

The branch of the tea trade closely connected
with the street business is that in tea-leaves. The
exhausted leaves of the tea-pot are purchased of
servants or of poor women, and they are made
into "new" tea. One gentleman — to whose in-
formation, and to the care he took to test the
accuracy of his every statement, I am bound to
express my acknowledgments — told me that it
would be fair to reckon that in London 1500 lbs.
of tea-leaves were weekly converted into new tea,
or 78,000 lbs. in the year! One house is known
to be very extensively and profitably concerned in
this trade, or rather manufacture, and on my
asking the gentleman who gave me the informa-
tion if the house in question (he told me the
name) was accounted respectable by their fellow-
citizens, the answer was at once, "Highly re-
spectable."

The old tea-leaves, to be converted into new, are placed by the manufacturers on hot plates, and
are re-dried and re-dyed. To give the "green"
hue, a preparation of copper is used. For the
"black" no dye is necessary in the generality of
cases. This tea-manufacture is sold to "cheap"
or "slop" shopkeepers, both in town and country,
and especially for hawking in the country, and is
almost always sold ready mixed.

The admixture of sloe-leaves, &c., which used
to be gathered for the adulteration of tea, is now
unknown, and has been unknown since tea be-
came cheaper, but the old tea-leaf trade is, I am
assured, carried on so quietly and cleverly, that
the most vigilant excise-officers are completely in
the dark; a smaller "tea-maker" was, however,
fined for tea-leaf conversion last year.

Into this curious question, concerning the
purposes for which the old tea-leaves are now
purchased by parties in the street, I shall enter
searchingly when I treat of the street-buyers. The
information I have already received is of great
curiosity and importance, nor shall I suppress the
names of those dishonest traders who purchase the
old dried tea-leaves, as a means of cheating their
customers.

Into the statistics of this strange trade I will
not now enter, but I am informed that great
quantities of tea-leaves are sent from the country
to London. Perhaps of the 1500 lbs. weekly
manufactured, three quarters may be collected in
the metropolis.

I may here add, that the great bulk of the tea
now hawked throughout the metropolis is sup-
plied from the handsome cars, or vans, of well-
known grocers and tea-dealers. Of these — it
was computed for me — there are, on no day,
fewer than 100 in the streets of London, and of
its contiguous and its more remote suburbs, such
as Woolwich, and even Barnet. One tradesman
has six such cars. The tea is put up in bags of 7,
14, and 21 lbs., duly apportioned in quarter, half,
and whole pounds; a quarter of a pound being
the smallest quantity vended in this manner. The
van and its contents are then entrusted to a
driver, who has his regular round, and very often
his regular customers. The customers purchase
the tea from their faith in the respectability of the
firm — generally well known through extensive
advertising. The teas are supplied by the house
which is pronounced to supply them; for the
tradesman is the capitalist in the matter, his car-
man is the labourer, and the house is responsible
for the quality of the article. When a new con-
nection has to be formed, or an "old connection"
to be extended, circulars (bonâ fide) are sent
round, and the carman afterwards calls; and, "in
some genteel streets," I was told, "calls, oft
enough, at every house, and, in many districts, at
every decent-looking house in every street." So
far, then, even this part of the traffic may be con-
sidered one of the streets. The remuneration of
the street-traveller in, or hawker of, tea, is usually
1d. per lb. on the lower-priced kinds, 2d. on the
higher (but more often 1d.) and, very rarely in-
deed, 3d. on the highest. The trade is one pecu-
culiar to great cities — and most peculiar, I am as-
sured, to London — for the tradesman does not
know so much as the name of his customer; nor,
perhaps, does the carman, but merely as "Number
such-an-one." The supply is for ready money, or,
if credit be given, it is at the risk of the carman,
who has a weekly wage in addition to his per-
quisites. Every evening, when the vehicle is
driven back to the premises of its owner, "stock
is taken," and the money taken by the carman —


456

illustration [Description: 915EAF. Page 456.]
minus what may be called the "poundage" — is
paid over to the proper party.

A man who had driven, or, as he called it,
"managed," one of these vans, told me that he
made this way, 2s. to 2s 6d. a day; "but," he
added, "if you make a good thing of it that way,
you have all the less salary." These carmen are
men of good character and good address, and were
described to me, by a gentleman familiar with the
trade, as "of the very best class of porters."

As this vehicular-itinerant business has now
become an integral part of the general tea-trade,
I need not further dwell upon it, but reserve it
until I come to treat of the shopmen of grocers
and tea-dealers, and thence of the tea-trade in
general. I may add, however, that the tea thus
hawked is, as regards, perhaps, three-fourths of
the quantity sold, known as "mixed," and sold at
4s. per lb. — costing, at a tea-broker's, from 2s. 11d. to 3s. 3d. It is announced, as to its staple
or entire compound, to be "congou," but is in
reality a tea known as "pouchong." Some old
ladies are still anxious, I was told, for a cup of
good strong bohea; and though bohea has been
unknown to the tea-trade since the expiration of the
East India Company's Charter in 1834, the ac-
commodating street-traveller will undertake to sup-
ply the genuine leaf to which the old lady had
been so long accustomed. The green teas thus sold
(and they are not above a fiftieth part of the
other) are common twankays and common young
hysons, neither of them — I can state on excellent
authority — accounted in the trade to be "true
teas," but, as in the case of some other green
teas, "Canton made." The "green" is sold from
the vans generally at 4s. 6d.; sometimes, but
rarely, as high as 5s. 6d. What is sold at 4s. 6d. may cost, on the average, 3s. 5d. I may add,
also, that when a good article is supplied, such
profits in the tea-trade are not accounted at all
excessive.

But the more usual mode of tea hawking is by
itinerant dealers who have a less direct connection
with the shop whereat they purchase their goods.
To this mode of obtaining a livelihood, the haw-
kers are invited by all the persuasive powers of
advertising eloquence: "To persons in want of a
genteel and lucrative employment" — "To Gentle-
men of good address and business habits," &c., &c.
The genteel and lucrative employment is to hawk
tea under the auspices of this "company" or the
other. The nature of this business, and of the
street tea-trade generally, is shown in the follow-
ing statement: — "About twelve years ago I came
to London in expectation of a situation as tide-
waiter; I did not succeed, however, and not being
able to obtain any other employment, and trusting
to the promises of gentlemen M.P.s for too long
a time, my means were exhausted, and I was
at length induced to embark in the tea business.
To this I was persuaded by a few friends who
advanced me some money, considering that it
would suit me well, while my friends would
endeavour to get me a connection, that is, procure
me customers. I accordingly went to a well-
known Tea Company in the City, a firm bear-
ing a great name. Their advertisements put
forth extraordinary statements, of so many persons
realizing independencies from selling their teas,
and in very short spaces of time. I was quite
pleased at the prospect presented to me in such
glowing terms, and, depending not a little on my
own industry and perseverance, I embraced the
opportunity and introduced myself forthwith to
the Company. They advised me in the first
place to take out a licence for selling teas, to se-
cure me against any risk of fines or forfeitures.
The cost of a licence, after payment of 2s. 11½d. preliminary expenses, is 11s. per annum, to be
paid quarterly, as it becomes due, and it is paid
by the Company for their agents. The licence is
granted for the place of abode of the `traveller,'
and strictly prohibits him from hawking or ex-
posing his wares for sale at places other than at
such place of abode, but he may of course supply
his customers where he will, and serve them at
their places of abode respectively. Everything
thus prepared, I commenced operations, but soon
found that this tea dealing was not so advan-
tageous as I had anticipated. I found that the
commission allowed by the Company on cheap
teas was very low. For those generally used by
the working people, `4s. tea,' for instance, or
that at 4s. per pound, I had to pay to the Com-
pany 3s. 6d. per pound, thus allowing the travel-
ling dealer or agent for commission only 6d. in
the pound, or 1½d. per quarter. Now 80 or
100 customers is considered a fair connection
for a dealer, and allowing each customer to take a
quarter of a pound at an average, 80 good cus-
tomers at that rate would bring him in 10s., or 100 customers 12s. 6d. clear profit weekly.
But many customers do not require so much as a
quarter of a pound weekly, while others require
more, so that I find it rather awkward to sub-
divide it in portions to suit each customer, as the
smallest quantity made at the warehouse is a
quarter of a pound, and every quarter is done up
in a labelled wrapper, with the price marked on it.
So that to break or disturb the package in any
way might cause some customers to suspect that
it had been meddled with unfairly.

"Another disadvantage was in dealing with the
`Tea Company.' No sugars are supplied by
them, which makes it more inconvenient for the
travelling dealer, as his customers find it difficult
to get sugars, most retail grocers having an objec-
tion to sell sugars to any but those who are pur-
chasers of teas as well. However, I was not
confined to deal with this Company, and so I tried
other places, and found a City house, whose terms
were preferable. Here I could get tea for 3s. 3d., as good as that for which the Company charged
3s. 6d., besides getting it done up to order in plain
paper, and in quantities to suit every variety of
customer. There were also sugars, which must be
had to accommodate the customers, at whatever
trouble or inconvenience to the traveller; for it is
very lumbersome to carry about, and leaves
scarcely any profit at all.

"The trade is anything but agreeable, and the
customers are often exacting. They seem to fancy,


457

illustration [Description: 915EAF. Page 457.]
however cheaply and well they may be supplied,
that the tea-seller is under obligations to them;
that their custom will be the making of him, and,
therefore, they expect some compliment in return.
The consequence is, that very often, unless he be
willing to be accounted a `shabby man,' the tea-
dealer is obliged, of a Saturday night, to treat his
customers, to ensure a continuance of their cus-
tom. Other customers take care to be absent at
the time he calls. Those who are anxious to run
up bills, perhaps, keep out of the way purposely
for two or more successive nights of the dealer's
calling, who, notwithstanding, cannot very well
avoid serving such customers. This is another evil,
and if the tea-man's capital be not sufficient to enable
him to carry on the business in this manner,
giving credit (for it is unavoidable), he is very
soon insolvent, and compelled to give up the
business. I had to give it up at last, after having
carried it on for four years, leaving 8l. or 9l. due
to me, in small sums, varying from 1s. to 10s., one
shilling of which I never expect to be paid. I could
not have continued it so long, for my means would
not allow me to give credit; but getting partial
employment at the last-mentioned house, where I
dealt, enabled me to do so. When, however, I
got permanently employed, I grew tired of tea-
dealing, and gave it up.

"In my opinion the business would best suit
persons casually employed, such as dockmen and
others, who might have leisure to go about; those
also who get other commissions and hawk about
other commodities, such as soft wares, might do
very well by it; otherwise, in most cases, 't is only
resorted to as a make-shift where no other em-
ployment can be obtained.

"I do not know how many persons are in the
trade. I have, however, heard it asserted, that
there were between 4000 and 5000 persons in
London engaged in the business, who are, with
but few exceptions, Scotchmen; they, of all others,
manage to do the best in this line.

"A man, to undertake the tea business, requires
a double capital, because in the first place, he has
to purchase the tea, then he must give credit, and
be able to support himself till such time as he can
get in his money. Some of the tea-dealers manage
to eke out their profits by mixing tea-leaves,
which have been used, with the genuine com-
modity. They spread the old tea-leaves on tins
which they have for the purpose, and, by exposing
them either to the action of the air or the heat of
the fire, the leaves crisp up as they had been
before they were used, and are not distinguishable
from the rest. I never vended such an article,
and that may be one reason why I could not suc-
ceed in the business."

I believe the career thus detailed is a common
one among the hawkers of tea, or rather the
"travellers" in the tea trade. Many sell it on
tally.