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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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Thursday August 7th. 1806.
  
  
  
  
  
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Thursday August 7th. 1806.

It began to rain about midnight and continued with but little
intermission until 10 A. M. today. the air was cold and
extreemly unpleasant. we set out early resolving if possible
to reach the Yelowstone river today which was at the distance
of 83 ms. from our encampment of the last evening; the currant
favoured our progress being more rapid than yesterday, the
men plyed their oars faithfully and we went at a good rate.
at 8 A. M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river which
has changed it's entrance since we passed it last year, falling
in at preasent about a quarter of a mile lower down. at or just
below the entrance of this river we meet with the first appearance
of Coal birnt hills and pumicestone, these appearances
seem to be coextensive. here it is also that we find the first
Elm and dwarf cedar on the bluffs, the ash first appears in the
instance of one solletary tree at the Ash rapid, about the Elk
rapid and from thence down we occasionally meet with it scattered
through the bottoms but it is generally small. from
Marthy's river to Milk river on the N. E. side there is a most
beautifull level plain country; the soil is much more fertile
here than above. we overtook the Fieldses at noon. they
had killed 2 bear and seen 6 others, we saw and fired on two
from our perogue but killed neither of them. these bear resort
the river where they lie in wate at the crossing places of
the game for the Elk and weak cattle; when they procure a
subject of either they lie by the carcase and keep the wolves
off untill they devour it. the bear appear to be very abundant
on this part of the river. we saw a number of buffaloe Elk
&c. as we passed but did not detain to kill any of them. we


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also saw an unusual flight of white gulls about the size of a
pigeon with the top of their heads black.[37] at 4 P. M. we
arrived at the entrance of the Yellowstone river. I landed at
the point and found that Capt. Clark had been encamped at this
place and from appearances had left it about 7 or 8 days.
I found a paper on a pole at the point which mearly contained
my name in the hand wrighting of Capt. C. we also found the
remnant of a note which had been attatched to a peace of
Elk'shorns in the camp; from this fragment I learned that
game was scarce at the point and musquetoes troublesome
which were the reasons given for his going on; I also learnt
that he intended halting a few miles below where he intended
waiting my arrival.[38] I now wrote a note directed to Colter and
Collins provided they were behind, ordering them to come on
without loss of time; this note I wraped in leather and attatched
to the same pole which Capt. C. had planted at the point; this
being done I instantly reimbarked and decended the river in
the hope of reaching Capt. C's camp before night. about 7
miles below the point on the S. W. shore I saw some meat
that had been lately fleased and hung on a pole; I directed
Sergt. Ordway to go on shore [and] examine the place; on his
return he reported that he saw the tracks of two men which
appeared so resent that he beleived they had been there today,
the fire he found at the plce was blaizing and appeared to have
been mended up afresh or within the course of an hour past.
he found at this place a part of a Chinnook hat which my men
recognized as the hat of Gibson; from these circumstances we
concluded that Capt. C's camp could not be distant and pursued
our rout untill dark with the hope of reaching his camp in
this however we were disappointed and night coming on compelled
us to encamp on the N. E. shore in the next bottom
above our encampment of the 23rd. and 24th. of April 1805. as
we came too a herd of buffaloe assembled on the shore of
which we killed a fat cow.

 
[37]

Coues says these were terns, probably Sterna forsteri.—Ed.

[38]

We discovered nothing to inform us where he was gone, except a few words
written or traced in the sand, which were "W. C. a few miles farther down on the
right-hand side
."—Gass (p. 360).