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Original journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, 1804-1806

printed from the original manuscripts in the library of the American Philosophical Society and by direction of its committee on historical documents
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

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Friday July 4th. 1806.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
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Friday July 4th. 1806.

I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and the
Fieldses to hunt. at 6. A. M. a man of the Pallotepellows
(Pelloat pallahs) arrived from the West side of the Rocky
mountains; he had pursued us a few days after our departure
and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same
young man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains
early in June last when we lay on the Kooskooske and
was obliged to relinquish the enterprize in consequence of the
debth and softness of the snow. I gave a shirt a handkercheif
and a small quantity of ammunition to the indians. at half
after eleven the hunters returned from the chase unsuccessful.
I now ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with these
friendly people and at noon bid them adieu. they had cut
the meat which I gave them last evening thin and exposed it


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in the sun to dry informing me that they should leave it in
this neighbourhood untill they returned as a store for their
homeward journey, it is worthy of remark that these people
were about to return by the same pass by which they had conducted
through the difficult part of the Rocky Mountains,
altho they were about to decend Clark's river several days journey
in surch of the Shale's their relations, a circumstance which
to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence that there is not so
near or so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by land
along that river as that which we came, the several war routs
of the Minetarees which fall into this vally of Clark's river
concenter at traveller's rest beyond which point they have
never yet dared to venture in pursuit of the nations beyond
the mountains. all the nations also on the west side of the
mountain with whom we are acquainted inhabiting the waters
of Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by
this rout. these affectionate people our guides betrayed every
emmotion of unfeigned regret at seperating from us;[4] they
said that they were confidint that the Pahkees, (the appellation
they give the Minnetares) would cut us off. the first 5
miles of our rout was through a part of the extensive plain in
which we were encamped, we then entered the mountains with
the East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined pass
on it's N. side continuing up that river five Ms. further to the
entrance of the Cokahlahishkit R. which falls in on the N. E.
side, is 60 yds. wide deep and rapid. the banks bold not very
high but never overflow. the East fork below its junction
with this stream is 100 yds. wide and above it about 90. the
water of boath are terbid but the East branch much the most
so; their beds are composed of sand and gravel; the East
fork possesses a large portion of the former. neither of those
streams are navigable in consequence of the rapids and shoals
which obstruct their currents. thus far a plain or untimbered
country bordered the river which near the junction of these
streams spread into a handsome level plain of no great extent;

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the hills were covered with long leafed pine and fir.[5] I now
continued my rout up the N. side of the Cokaplahishkit river
through a timbered country for 8 miles and encamped in a
handsom bottom on the river where there was an abundance
of excellent grass for our horses, the evening was fine, air
pleasant and no musquetoes. a few miles before we encamped
I killed a squirrel of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains
and a ground squirrel of a speceis which I had never
before seen, I preserved the skins of both of these animals.

Courses and distances July 4th. 1806.

         
S. 75° E.  3 M.  along the N. side of the river, at 2 Ms. the bottom
widens into a handsome prarie. river 110 yds.
wide.
 
N. 45 E.  1. M.  through a high plain, passed a small branch at the
extremity of this course.
 
S. 45, E.  1. M.  through a low leavel prarie to the entrance of the
Cokahlah-ishkit river falling in on the N. side
60 yds. wide deep and rapid not navigable in consequence
of the obstruction of rocks rapids, &c.
 
East—  8 M.  up the north side of the Cokahlah-ishkit R. through
a timbered country, mountains high and rocky.
river bottoms narrow and land poor. encamped
 
Ms 13  at the extremity of this course on the bank of the
river in a handsom timbered bottom.
 

A Suplement to Come in here enclosed[6]

 
[4]

It is but justice to say that the whole nation to which they belong [Nez
Percés], are the most friendly, honest, and ingenuous people that we have seen in
the course of our voyage and travels.—Gass (p. 340).

[5]

The expedition parted from their Indian guides in the wide mountain-walled
valley at the mouth of Rattlesnake Creek, which is now the site of Missoula—an
important station on the Northern Pacific Railway, and the seat of Montana State
University. Farther down, at the junction of the Hellgate with the Bitter Root,
stands Fort Missoula on a government military reservation. The Hellgate (East
Fork) receives its name from the cañon which Lewis describes as "a narrow confined
pass" stretching east from Missoula to the entrance of Big Blackfoot River (Cokalahishkit).
As this was the route by which the Indians, trappers, and traders had to
pass on their way to the buffalo country, and haunted by war parties of Blackfeet,
it acquired, in the picturesque French, the title Porte de l'Enfer (Hell's Gate).—Ed.

[6]

At this point in Codex L are ten blank leaves, on which Lewis evidently intended,
but failed, to copy and elaborate the field notes made for his journey during
July 5–14. This matter is contained in the fragment styled by Coues Codex La,
which we here insert.—Ed.