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WESTERN VIRGINIA.

ALLEGHANY.

Alleghany was created by the legislature in 1822, and formed from
portions of Bath, Bottetourt and Monroe. It is bounded N by Bath and a
small portion of Greenbrier, E. by Rockbridge and Bottetourt, S. by Monroe,
and W. by Greenbrier; its mean length is 26 ms.; mean breadth 20;
and area 521 sq. ms. It lies between lat 37° 35′, and 38° N and the centre
about 3° W. long. from W. C. Most of this county is a high mountain
valley, drained by the head waters of the James river. Pott's and Dunlap's
creeks rise in Monroe and flow N. E. until they unite with Jackson's
river near Covington, about the centre of the county. Jackson's river rises
in Pendleton, and flowing S. through Bath, enters Alleghany, passess the
gap between Peter's and the Warm Spring mountains, receives Pott's creek
from the S., and then turns first N. E. and then after turning the N. E.
flank of Rich Patch mountain, it flows S. E. into Bottetourt. Cow-Pasture
river
rises also in Pendleton, flows by a tortuous channel, nearly due
S. through Bath and Alleghany, and unites with Jackson's river, soon after
it passes into Bottetourt. These two rivers by their union constitute the
James. Much of the surface of this county is covered with mountains; its
mean level exceeds 10,000 ft above the tides of the ocean. The main Alleghany
chain
forms its boundary on the W. Peter's mountain and Warm
Spring mountain
divide the county into nearly two equal parts, having only
a narrow gap at Covington. Pott or Middle mountain and Rich Patch,
form its boundary on the S. E. Besides these continuous ranges, there
are a number of others filling up the intervals, such as Oliver, Marris,
Beard's,
&c. The staples of the county are grain, and its products generally
the same as other counties situated in the same latitude. Population
in 1830, 2,816. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district.
Tax paid in 1833, $473 15—in 1834 on lots, $39 26—on land, $273 42
—348 slaves, $87 00—926 horses, $55 56—2 studs, $13 00—7 coaches,
$12 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—2 gigs, $1 00. Total, $488 24. Expended
in educating poor children in 1832, $87 00—in 1833, $166 47.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Calahan's P. O. 196 ms. from R.
and 238 ms. from W., situated at the
junction of roads leading to the
Warm, Sweet and White Sulphur
Springs.

COVINGTON, P. V. and Seat
of Justice,
191 ms. W. of R. and 233
S. W. of W. Covington is situated at
the head of the James river navigation
on Jackson's river, 15 ms. above its
confluence with the Cow Pasture,
and directly opposite the termination
of the Kanawha turnpike road. It
contains besides the county buildings,
50 dwelling houses, and about the
same number of mechanic shops.
The buildings are principally of
brick, and in some of them much taste
is displayed; 2 handsome and spacious
houses of public worship are


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about being erected, (1 Presbyterian
and 1 Methodist,) 1 English and
Classical school, and 3 mercantile
stores. The mechanics are tanners,
saddlers, boot and shoe makers, hatters,
tailors, gunsmiths, house carpenters,
cabinet makers, wagon makers,
copper smiths, chair makers, blacksmiths
and last makers. Its situation
is handsome and eligible, on one of
the greatest thoroughfares in Virginia,
as travellers from E. to W. pass
through this place to the Virginia
Springs, it being nearly equi-distant
from several, viz:—20 ms. from the
White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet
Springs, 25 from the Hot Springs, 27
from the Warm Springs and 45 from
the Salt Sulphur. Should the contemplated
James and Kanawha improvements
be carried into operation,
Covington may become one of the
most flourishing inland towns in Virginia,
as it will probably be the place
of depot between the land and water
communication; and it likewise will
command the trade of a large and fertile
region of country, which abounds
in all the products of the earth; and
the mountains, of which abound in
iron, and present sufficient water
power, to force any quantity of machinery.
Its situation is healthy,
being located in the midst of the
mountains. Property in this place
has lately advanced 25 per cent in
anticipation of the contemplated improvement.
Population about 300
persons, of which 3 are attorneys,
and 2 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the
3d Monday in every month. Quarterly
in March, June, August and
November.

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 18th of April and September.

Jackson River, P. O. 178 ms. N.
of R. and 221 S. W. by W. of W.

Morris Hill, P. O. 184 ms. W.
of R. and 227 from W.

AUGUSTA.

Augusta county was originally a portion of Orange county and continued
so, until it became sufficiently populous to claim the rights of a separate,
independent county, which rank was given to it in 1738. The first
court after it was laid off from Orange was held in Staunton, in the year
1745, and its jurisdiction extended from the summit of the Blue Ridge to
the Ohio river, including the present state of Kentucky, and from the James
river to Frederick.

As the population increased, it became necessary to divide this immense
tract into various counties, at different times, until it assumed its present
shape and size in the year 1790.

The summit of the Blue Ridge forms the eastern boundary, until it strikes
the line of Rockbridge, the line then runs a straight course in a N. E. direction,
crossing the North mountain, until it reaches the summit of Walker's
mountain, following this and the Cow Pasture mountain in a N. W.
course, it strikes the corner of Rockingham, and runs thence in a S. W.
direction, a straight course to the Blue Ridge.

The length of Augusta county is about 34 ms.; the breadth 35,—and its
area about 348 sq. ms. extending entirely across the Valley. The surface is
generally uneven,—in many places hilly; and in some instances it rises
into eminences that deserve the name of mountains. Towards the northern
boundary, however, it spreads out into more extensive bottoms of very


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rich and fertile land. The soil is best adapted to agriculture and grazing.
Large quantities of grain are raised for exportation, and there are within
the county, 17 merchant mills, which are almost exclusively employed in
manufacturing flour for this purpose. Cattle are also exported in considerable
numbers.

Although this county is well watered and abounds in fine springs, there
are no very large streams, from the fact, that it is the highest land in the
Valley, and divides the head waters of the James and Shenandoah rivers.

The great Calf Pasture river runs through nearly half of the county,
and wends its way in a S. direction to the James river, while the north,
middle and south rivers, (the last two of which run nearly through the
whole extent of the county) meet near the northern boundary, and form the
Shenandoah. Christian's and Lewis' creeks are branches of the Middle
river, and Mossy creek of the N. These streams are all valuable, on account
of numerous mill seats upon them, which are always abundantly supplied
with water.

The mineral treasures of this county, have been but partially developed.
Very little interest has been felt on this subject, except so far as it has been
quickened by a hope of gain. Iron ore beds have been known and profitably
worked for many years; and there is at present a furnace for the manufacturing
and casting of iron in active operation; Miller's Iron Works,
near the northern boundary, at the foot of the North mountain.

Anthracite coal has lately been found in the vicinity of the Augusta
Springs, and along the North mountain. It contains a portion of sulphur,
though it becomes more pure as the excavation progresses, and gives promise
of affording an abundant supply of this valuable mineral.

The predominant rock in this part of the Valley is lime rock, which in
some places is sufficiently hard to be used as marble, though it is not worked
as such. In connection with this rock may be found rhombic chrystals of
carbonite of lime, and dog-tooth spar the latter rarely. In the vicinity of
Staunton, a species of calcedony in great quantities is scattered about, some
of which is very pure.

Springs are very abundant in all parts of the county, some of which are
mineral and highly medicinal.

The Augusta Springs are valuable, as a resort for invalids, and are daily
becoming more noted. They are 12 ms. N. W. of Staunton, situated in a
delightful country. The water is strongly impregnated with sulphuretted
hydrogen, and are said by those who should be judges, to equal the celebrated
springs of Harrowgate, in England. Besides the Augusta Springs
there are two other Sulphur Springs in the county, both of which are equally
strongly impregnated; but there are few, if any accommodations for visitors
at either of them. One is on the Free turnpike leading from Staunton to
the Warm Springs, 17 ms. from S.: the other on the old road, 18 ms. from
Staunton.

A Chalybeate Spring has recently been discovered very near the Augusta
Springs, but it has never been analyzed.

About 12 ms. S. W. from Staunton, is a large spring that ebbs and flows
daily;—there are two similar springs in Bath.

The whole of Augusta county is based upon lime rock,—and from the
nature of that rock, necessarily contains many curious fissures, excavations
and caverns. Only two of these, however, deserve a notice, Madison's and
Weyer's cave's which are both situated in the same ridge, and are but 200


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yards apart. Madison's cave has been described by Jefferson,[31] in his notes
on Virginia, but Weyer's has been described and explored since that time,
and is far more worthy of being immortalized. The length of this this stupendous
Cavern in a straight course is 1650 ft., but the distance is more than
doubled by following the various windings. There are numerous apartments,
some of which are magnificent. One measures 257 ft. in length, from
10 to 20 in breadth, and 33 in height,—another is 153 ft. long, 15 wide, and
60 high, while a third reaches the height of 100 feet! Every part is studded
with beautiful stalactites, that lead you almost to believe that you have
descended into the jewelled fruit garden, where hung Alladin's lamp.[32]


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Population in 1820, 16,742—1830, 19,926. Augusta belongs to the
12th judicial circuit and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $6659 24—
in 1834 on lots, $470 80—on land, $4,343 09—2,443 slaves, $610 75—
9,360 horses, $561 60—48 studs, $421 00—78 coaches, $187 85—1
stage, $3 00—carryalls, $69 95—58 gigs, $39 15. Total, $6,717 19.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $883 59—in 1833, $963 74.


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TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Augusta Springs, P. O. 17 ms.
N. N. W. of Staunton, 134 ms. N. W.
by W. of R. and 176 from W. The
waters have valuable medicinal qualities,
which have been spoken of in
our account of the county.

Deerfield, P. O. 148 ms. from
R. and 190 S. W. of W., situated on


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the waters of the Calf Pasture river,
in the Calf Pasture Valley, between
the North and Cow Pasture mountains,
4 ms. E. of the county line of
Bath; on the main stage road between
Staunton and the Warm Springs, 26
ms. W. of the former, and 29 E. of
the latter. The Warm Springs and
Harrisonburg turnpike also passes
Deerfield. It contains a tavern, mercantile
store and blacksmith's shop.

Greenville, P. V. 133 ms. N.


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W. by W. of R. and 175 from W. It
is pleasantly situated in the southern
part of the county, 11 ms. S. S. W. of
Staunton, and within a mile and a
half of the head of South River, which
runs through the town; and on which
there is an extensive manufacturing
flour mill, and a wollen manufactory.
Two physicians reside in the vicinity.
The town contains about 50
dwelling houses, 3 general stores, 2
taverns, 1 academy, 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers,

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2 tailors, 1 blacksmith shop, 1
cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 saddle
tree maker, 3 house carpenters, 1
hatter, and 4 boot and shoe makers.
Population about 250 persons.*

Jenning's Gap, P. O. a gap in
North Mountain, in the northern part
of the county, 133 ms. from R. 162
S. W. by W. of W. and 12 from
Staunton. There are located here
several houses, among which are a
tavern and mercantile house of long
standing.

Middlebrook, P. V. situated in
the southern part of the county, 10
ms. S. S. W. of Staunton, 174 S. W.


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by W. of W. and 132 from R. Carr's
Brook divides the town. This village
is thriving and contains about
30 dwelling houses, some of them
handsome brick buildings, 1 house of
public worship, free for all denominations,
1 common school, 1 tavern, 3
miscellaneous stores, 1 tanyard, 2 tailors,
1 cabinet maker, 1 cooper, 1
house carpenter, 1 wheelwright, 2
boot and shoe factories. Population
about 150 persons; of whom 1 is a
physician.

Mount Meridian, P. O. 118 ms.
from R. and 147 from W., situated in
the western part of the county, on the
main stage road leading from Staunton,
to Port Republic, 17 ms. N. E. of
the former, and 2½ from Weyer's
Cave. It contains 8 dwelling houses,
1 miscellaneous store, 1 blacksmith's
shop, 1 tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker,


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—manufacturing flour mill (Whit
more's,) and 1 Methodist house of
worship. Population 50.

Mount Sydney, P. V. 131 ms.
from R. and 153 S. W. by W. of W.
situated on the main stage road leading
from Staunton to Winchester, 10
ms. N. E. of the former. It contains
30 dwelling houses, 3 miscellaneous
stores, 1 handsome hotel, 1 house of
public worship, free for all denominations,
a male and female academy, 1
tanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe
factories, 1 hatter, 1 milliner, 1 cabinet
and chair maker, and 1 pottery
Population 190 persons; of whom 2
are physicians.

New Hope, P. V. 114 ms. from
R. and 152 S. W. by W. of W. This
little village contains several dwelling
houses, 2 mercantile stores, 1 apothecary
shop, 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 2 taverns,
2 tailors and 1 house joiner. Population
40 persons; of whom 2 are
physicians.

Spring Farm, P. O. 151 ms. S. W.
by W. of W. and 122 from R.

STAUNTON, P. V. and County
Seat,
163 ms. S. W. of W. 121 N.
W. by W. of R. and 40 a little N. of
W. from Charlottesville; situated in lat.
38° 9′ N. and in long. 2° 03′ W. of
W., on one of the extreme head branches
of the E. fork of Shenandoah
river. It stands on the fine valley
between the Blue Ridge and Kittatinny,
or between the Blue Ridge and
North mountain chains, a little N. of
Madison and Weyer's cave.

With the exception of Winchester,
Staunton is the oldest town W. of the
Blue Ridge.

Sometime previous to the laying
off of Augusta from Orange, a grant
of 120,000 acres of land was made to
Wm. Beverly, Esq. comprising the
greater part of the present county.
Beverly gave to the county when it
was formed 25 acres, situated upon
Lewis' creek, on which to build a C.
H. and found a county town. Here
the first court was held in 1745, and
this was the beginning of Staunton.
It was not legally recognized as a
town until 1761.

The grant of Beverly was divided
off into lots by the county, and soon
became settled; more being required,
Beverly caused several lots to be surveyed,
adjoining this grant, which
survey bears the date of 1749, and
shows the early increase of the place.

Staunton originally occupied only
the level land upon the borders of the
creek, but it has become gradually
extended, until it has surmounted the
surrounding hills, and now resembles
an amphitheatre in form. The
streets are quite regular, running at
right angles, and have specific names,
but like many other old towns, they
are too narrow. This probably arises
from the necessity that existed when
they were founded, of living as compactly
as possible, that the inhabitants
might more easily repel the incursions
of a savage enemy, who dwelt in the
surrounding forests and mountains.
It became a corporate borough in
1801, having a mayor, 6 aldermen
and 4 common council men.

At present it contains about 200
dwelling houses, exclusive of stores,
shops, offices, &c. and its population,
according to the census of 1830, is
2,000. There are 13 dry good stores,
1 book store, 1 druggist's store, 1
confectioner, 4 groceries, 2 carriage
makers, 2 wagon makers, 2 saddlers,
7 blacksmiths, 3 tanyards, 3 hatters,
2 chair makers, 4 tinners, 1 copper
smith, 1 gun smith, 1 threshing machine
maker, 3 cabinet makers, 2
watch makers, 1 pottery and 5 tailors,
besides the various other trades usually
followed in a place of this size.
There is 1 printing office, from which
issues a valuable weekly paper; and
which is occasionally engaged in the
publication of books and pamphlets.
There are also 12 attorneys, 6 regular
physicians, and 3 ministers of the
gospel. The churches at which


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these ministers officiate belong to the
Presbyterian, Episcopalian and Methodist
denominations, and are all
handsome brick buildings. The public
edifices are a C. H.[33] and jail, built
of stone, a Chancery C. H., a county
clerk's office, and a market house, all
built of brick, and there are also 4 extensive
hotels.

Much attention is paid to education
in this place, and many young persons
of both sexes, are sent here from
all parts of the country, to attend the
various schools. There are 2 female
seminaries, and a male academy; all
of which employ respectively several
teachers, and are in a flourishing condition,
besides 4 primary schools.

The Western Lunatic Hospital is
located in Staunton, and is a noble
pile of buildings, it is sufficiently commodious
to accommodate 37 lunatics,
but is at the present time, being enlarged,
by the addition of two extensive
wings, which, when completed,
will accommodate 40 more.

An act has passed the General Assembly,
authorising the establishment
also, of a Deaf and Dumb Asylum as
soon as funds can be procured for
that purpose.

Lewis' creek runs through the centre
of the town, and has sufficient fall
to turn a chopping mill, a grist mill
and a carding machine. There is
still sufficient unemployed water power
to drive a cotton or woollen factory
of considerable extent, and an enterprising
capitalist might profitably
invest some portion of his capital in
that business.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, May, August and October.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 10th
of June and November, by Judge
Thompson.

Steel's Tavern, P. O. 138 ms.
from R. and 180 from W.

Waynesboro' P. V. 109 ms. from
R. and 150 from W., situated at the
western foot of the Blue Ridge, on
South river. Waynesboro' is an industrious
and wealthy little village,
located in a beautiful and picturesque
situation, in a fertile and well watered
country, on the main stage road leading
from Charlottesville to Staunton,
30 ms. N. W. of the former, and 12
E. S. E. of the latter. The present
town is called Waynesboro', junior,
(Waynesboro', senior, lying a little
N. having fallen into ruins.) It contains
70 dwelling houses, 5 mercantile
stores, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,)
1 incorporated academy, 1 common
school and public library, 1 extensive
manufacturing flour mill and a wool
carding machine, 1 hotel (kept in the
best style,) 2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3
tailors, 1 hatter, 1 silver smith and
watch maker, 1 wagon maker, 1 chair
maker, 2 cabinet makers, 3 boot and
shoe factories, and 3 blacksmith's
shops. Population not less than 500
persons; of whom 4 are regular physicians.

 
[33]

Since this was written, the court has contracted for the erection of a new C. H.
which will be unquestionably the finest building of the kind in any county in the
state.

 
[31]

We extract a portion of Mr. Jefferson's description which is referred to in the
text, and give also some later information concerning Madison's Cave. "It is situated
on the N. side of the Blue Ridge, near the intersection of the Rockingham and
Augusta line, with the south fork, of the southern river of Shenandoah. It is in a
hill of about 200 ft. perpendicular height, the ascent of which, on one side is so steep
that you may pitch a biscuit from its summit into the river which washes its base.
The entrance of the cave, is in this side, about two-thirds of the way up. It extends
into the earth about 300 ft., branching into subordinate caverns, sometimes ascending
a little, but more generally descending, and at length terminates in two different
places, at basins of water of unknown extent, and which I should judge to be nearly
on a level with the waters of the river; however, I do not think they are formed by
refluent waters from that, because they are never turbid; because they do not rise and
fall in correspondence with that, in times of flood and of drought; and because the
water is always cool. It is as probably one of the many reservoirs with which the
interior parts of the earth are supposed to abound, and which yield supplies to the
fountains of water, distinguished from others only by its being accessible. The vault
of this cave is of solid limestone, from 20 to 40 or 50 ft. high, through which water is
continually percolating. This, trickling down the sides of the cave, has encrusted them
over in the form of elegant drapery, and dripping from the top of the vaults generates
on that, and on the base below, stalactites of a conical form, some of which have met
and formed massive columns."

Madison's Cave derives its name from the father of the late Bishop Madison, who
resided near it, and who was equally famed for his hospitality, his practical wit, and
his convivial disposition. It has been known 70 or 80 years, but is now little visited
as a curiosity,—the earth in it, affords salt petre in proportion of from 2 to 4 pounds
to the bushel,—2000 weight was manufactured here during the years 1813-4. The
earth when brought out is at the mouth of the cave put into a plank gutter which
conducts it to the bank of the river, at the bottom of the hill, where it is put into tubs
or vats mixed with wood ashes—water is passed through it, and this is evaporated to
salt by boiling. The lakes of water which are found at the extremity of the cave
have been navigated by a boat, and thoroughly explored, since Mr. Jefferson wrote;
they are 30 or 40 ft. deep, and are bounded on the furthest extremity by rocks
so abrupt that a footing can no where be had.

[32]

Weyer's Cave is situated near the northern extremity of Augusta county, Va. 17
ms. N. E. of Staunton, on the eastern side of a ridge running nearly N. and S. parallel
to the Blue Ridge, and somewhat more than a mile distant from it.

The western declivity of this ridge is very gradual, and the visiter, as he approaches
from that direction, little imagines from its appearance, that it embowels one of
Nature's master pieces. The eastern declivity however, is quite precipitous and difficult
of ascent.

The Guide's house is situated on the northern extremity of this ridge, and is distant
800 yds. from the entrance of the cave. In going from the house to the cave, you
pass the entrance of Madison's Cave, which is only 200 yds. from the other. Madiison's
Cave was known and visited as a curiosity, long before the discovery of Weyer's,
but it is now passed by and neglected, as unworthy of notice compared with its
more imposing rival, although it has had the pen of a Jefferson to describe its beauties.

The ascent from the bottom of the hill to the mouth of the cave is steep, but is rendered
less fatiguing, by the zigzag course of the path, which is 120 yds. in length.

It seems that about the year 1804, one Bernard Weyer ranged these hills, as a
hunter, while pursuing his daily vocation, he found his match in a lawless Ground
Hog, which not only eluded all his efforts but eventually succeeded in carrying off the
traps, which had been set for his capture. Enraged at the loss of his traps he made
an assault upon the domicile of the drepredator, with spade and mattock.

A few moments labor brought him to the ante-chamber of this stupendous cavern,
where he found his traps safely deposited.

The entrance originally was small and difficult of access; but the enterprise of the
proprietor, has obviated these inconveniences: it is now enclosed by a wooden wall,
having a door in its centre, which admits you to the ante-chamber.

At first it is about 10 ft. in height but after proceeding a few yards, in a S. W. direction,
it becomes contracted to the space of 4 ft. square.

At the distance of 24 ft. from the entrance,—descending at an angle of 19 degrees;
you reach the Dragon's Room, so called from a stalactitic concretion, which the Nomenclator
undoubtedly supposed to resemble that nondescript animal.

Above the Dragon's room there is an opening of considerable beauty, but of small
size, called the Devil's Gallery.

Leaving this room, which is not very interesting, you proceed in a more southerly
direction, to the entrance of Solomon's Temple, through a high but narrow pessage,
66 ft. in length, which is by no means difficult of access. Here you make a perpendicular
descent of 13 ft. by means of substantial stairs securely fixed, and you find
yourself in one of the finest rooms in the whole cave. It is irregular in shape, being
30 ft. long, and 45 broad, running nearly at right angles to the main course of the
cave. As you raise your eyes, after descending the steps before mentioned they rest
upon an elevated seat, surrounded by sparry incrustations, which sparkle beautifully
in the light of your candles.

This is not unaptly styled, Solomon's Throne. Every thing in this room, receives
its name from the Wise Man, immediately to the left of the steps, as you descend, you
will find his Meat-house; and at the eastern extremity of the room, is a beautiful pillar
of white stalactite, somewhat defaced by the smoke of candles, called by his name,
yet with strange inconsistency, an incrustation resembling falling water at the right
of the steps, has obtained the name of the Falls of Niagara,

Passing Solomon's Pillar, you enter another room, more irregular than the first,
but still more beautiful; it would be impossible adequately to describe the magnificence
of the roof. I shall therefore merely observe that it is thickly studded with
beautiful stalactites, resembling in form and color, the roots of radishes, which have
given the appellation of Radish Room to this delightful place.

The main passage to the rest of the cavern, is immediately opposite to the entrance
to Solomon's Temple, and you reach it by an ascent of 12 ft. to what is called the
Porter's Lodge. From this place, pursuing the same course, you pass along a passage
varying from 10 to 30 ft. in height, from 10 to 15 m. breadth, and 50 m. length, until
you reach Barney's Hall which receives its name from the fancied resemblance
of a prostrate stalactite, at the base of one that is upright, to old Commodore Barney,
and the cannon that he used at the Bladensburgh races.

Near the centre of the room, which is small and scarcely deserves the name an
upright board points out to the visiter the main path of the cave, which runs to the
right. Two passages run off to the left,—the first one to a large, irregular room called
the Lawyer's Office, in which is a fine spring, of water or rather a reservoir
where the droppings from the ceiling have collected,—the other, through a passage to
what is called The Armory, from an incrustration that has received the name of
Ajax's Shield. Between the Lawyer's Office and the Armory, and communicating
with both, is another large, irregular apartment, which is named Weyer's Hall, after
the original discoverer of the cave, who together with his dog, stands immortalized
in one corner.

Before we get bewildered and lost in this part of the cave, which is more intricate
than any other, let us return to the guide-board in the centre of Barney's Hall, and
pursue the route usually taken by visiters. Following the right hand opening mentioned
above, which is rather low being not more than 5 ft. in height, you pass into
the Twin Room, taking heed lest you fall into the Devil's Bake Oven, which yawns
close by your feet. This room is small, and communicates directly with the Bannister
Room,
which is 59 ft. distant from the guide-board. The arch here suddenly expands,
and becomes elevated to the height of 30 ft., and by dint of hard climbing you
may return to the Porter's Lodge, through a passage directly over the one which you
have just passed. There are many beauties in this upper passage.

A descent of 39 ft. from the Twin Room, in a direction due west, brings you into
the Tan Yard, which contains many beauties. The floor is irregular, in some places
sinking into holes somewhat resembling tan-vats, which together with several hanging
stalactites resembling hides, have given a name to this immense apartment. On
the S. E. side of the room, immediately to the left of the main path, is a large opening
which admits you at once into the Armory, already mentioned.

Changing your course to the N. W. you leave the Tan Yard, by a rough, but not
difficult ascent of 20 ft., at an angle of 18 degrees, into what may be considered as an
elevated continuation of the same room, but which has been deservedly dignified
with a distinct appellation.

To your right, as you step upon level ground, you will observe a perpendicular
wall of rock, rising with great regularity, if you strike upon it with your hand, it
sends forth a deep, mellow sound, strongly resembling the tones of a Bass Drum,
whence the room has received the name of the Drum Room. Upon a closer examination,
this apparent wall will be found to be only a thin stalactitic partition, extending
from the ceiling to the floor.

There is nothing else of much interest, in this apartment, we will proceed to the
more magnificent portions of the cavern.

You leave the Drum Room by a flight of natural stairs, 7 ft. in perpendicular
height. A large opening now presents itself, which expands to an extensive apartment,
to reach which it is necessary to make a nearly perpendicular descent of 10
ft., by means of a substantial pair of stairs. This apartment is the far famed Ball
Room.
It is 100 ft. long, 36 wide, and about 25 high, running at right angles to the
path by which you entered it.

The general course of the room is from N. to S. but at the northern extremity there
is a gradual ascent, bearing round to the E. until you reach a precipice of 20 or 30
ft., from which you can look down into the Tan Yard, having performed a complete
circuit.

Near the centre of the Ball Room, is a large, calcarious deposite, that has received
the name of Paganini's Statue, from the circumstance that it furnishes a good position
for the music, whenever balls are given in these submundane regions. The
floor is sufficiently level to admit of dancing upon it, and it is not uncommon, to have
balls here. The ladies are accommodated with a very convenient Dressing Room,
the only opening to which, communicates directly with the Ball Room.

You leave this room, by a gradual ascent of 42 ft. at the southern extremity, similar
to the one already described at the other. This acclivity is called the Frenchman's
Hill, from the following circumstance.—Some years since, a French gentleman
visited this cave, accompanied only by the guide, they had safely gone through,
and returning had reached the top of this hill, when by some accident both of their
lights were extinguished, and they were left in Egyptian darkness, without the means
of re-lighting their candles.

Fortunately the Guide, from his accurate knowledge of localities, was enabled to
conduct him safely to the entrance—a distance of more than 500 ft.

Another gentleman, by the name of Patterson, has immortalized his name by attempting
the same feat, although it was a complete failure. Hearing of the Frenchman's
adventure, he undertook to find his way back to the entrance, from the Ball
Room, without a light—sending his company come distance ahead. He succeeded
in ascending the stairs, but had proceeded only a few paces farther, when his feet
slipped from under him, and he was prostrated into an aperture, where he lay unhurt
until his companions, alarmed at his protracted absence, returned for him. His resting
place is called Patterson's Grave to this day.

From the French Hill, a long, irregular passage extends, in a N. W. direction
which is denominated the Narrow Passage. This passage is 52 ft. in length,—varying
from 3 to 5 ft. in width,—and from 4 to 8 ft. in height. It leads you to the brink
of a precipice, 12 ft. in height.

Natural indentations in the face of this precipice, afford a convenient means of descent,
and these natural steps have received the name of Jacob's Ladder. To correspond
with this name, as in Solomon's Temple, every thing is named after the Patriarch;
a flat rock opposite to the extremity of the Narrow Passage, is Jacob's Tea
Table; and a deep, inaccessible perforation in the rock, by its side, is Jacob's Ice
House! Descending the ladder you turn to the lett, and pass through a narrow opening,
still continuing to descend though less perpendicularly, to the centre of a small
apartment, called the Dungeon. The descent from the top of the Ladder to the
place is 28 feet.

This room communicates, by a passage about 4 ft. sq. with the Senate Chamber.
A thin flat rock, stretches over nearly half of this apartment, which is only about 40
ft. in diameter, at the height of 8 or 10 ft. from the floor, forming a sort of Gallery,
which doubtless caused the name already mentioned, to be given to the room.

The Senate Chamber communicates by a high, broad opening, with a still larger
apartment, denominated Congress Hall.

This name must have been given, on account of its proximity to the last mentioned
room, and not from any thing particularly appropriate in the room itself. It is long,
and like the Ball Room, runs nearly at right angles to the main path,—its course being
nearly N. and S. and a wall, having several openings, runs through its whole length.
The main path winds to the left as you enter the room, but we will diverge a little to
the right, and explore the dark recess that presents itself to view.

The floor of Congress Hall is very uneven, and at the northern extremity rises
somewhat abruptly. Climbing this ascent if you pass through one of the openings in
the wall mentioned above, you will be able to see through the whole extent of the
other half of the room, but it is impossible to traverse it, on occount of two or three
deep pits, that occupy the whole space between the wall and the side of the room.

Turning around to the right of the opening through which you passed, your eye
vainly attempts to penetrate the deep, dark abyss that presents itself, and you hesitate
to descend. Its name—The Infernal Regions, does not offer many inducements to enter
it, and for many years, it has been supposed to contain fixed air, so that visiters
avoid it, and it has never until recently, been thoroughly explored.

Our course now lies to the S. W. up a perpendicular ascent of 17 ft., to what is
called the Lobby. From this place, an expert climber, well acquainted with the
cave, may pass through secret passages, and bye rooms, to the end of the cave, without
once entering the main path, but we will pursue the accustomed route. You
have ascended to the Lobby, only to descend again on the other side, after taking a
few steps horizontally. A perpendicular descent of 17 ft., brings you to the most
magnificent apartment in the whole cavern.

This is Washington's Hall, so called in token of respect for the memory of our
Country's Father, and it is worthy of bearing the name. Its length is 257 ft., its
breadth from 10 to 20 ft., and its height about 33 ft. being remarkably level and
straight, through the whole length.

Not far from the centre of this room, is an immense deposite of calcarious matter
rising to the height of 6 or 7 ft. which, very strikingly resembles a statue clothed in
drapery. This is Washington's Statue, and few can look upon it—as seen by the
dim light of two or three candles which rather stimulate than repress curiosity, without
experiencing a sensation of awe and solemnity, as if they were actually in the
presence of the mighty dead.

A few yards from the entrance, another room branches off to the left, to reach
which you must ascend a bank of 5 or 6 ft. in height. This is called the Theatre,
from the fact that different parts of the room correspond to the Gallery, Stage and
Pit.

I have said that the breadth of Washington's Hall was from 10 to 20 ft.; this must
be understood only of the lower part of the room, for the arch stretches over a rock
20 ft. high, which forms the left wall, and embraces another room called Lady Washington's
Hall.
The entrance to this apartment, is opposite to the Statue, and is on
the same level with the Hall. The wall that separates the two rooms, is several feet
thick, and has received the strange name of The Rock of Gibralter.

You leave this splendid apartment, at the S. W. extremity, by a rough, narrow but
high passage, running at the foot of the Pyramids of Egypt and Cleopatra's Needle!
At the end of this passage, in a recess at the right, is another Spring or reservoir, not
as large as the one in the Lawyer's Office. A descent of 8 or 10 ft. brings you into
the Diamond Room, which may be considered as forming a part of The Church, a
long, irregular room, more lofty than any that we have yet entered. Its length is 152
feet, its breadth from 10 to 15, and its height 50!

At the farthest extremity, a beautiful white spire shoots up to a considerable height,
which is appropriately styled. The Steeple, and has, no doubt, suggested the name of
the room. Nearly opposite to the centre of the Church, is a recess, raised several ft.
of considerable extent.

This forms a very good Gallery to the Church. Immediately in the rear of the
Gallery, and in full view from below, is a great number of pendant stalactites, of
several ft. in length, and of various sizes ranged like the pipes of an organ, and beara
striking resemblance to them.

If these stalactites are struck by any hard substance, they send forth sounds of various
pitches, according to their size, and a stick run rapidly along several of them
at once, produces, a very pleasing variety of sounds. With great propriety this is
called The Organ.

Passing under the Steeple, which rests on an arch elevated not more than 10 feet,
you enter the Dining Room. This room is named from a long natural table, that
stands on the left side, and is not quite as large as the Church, though its height is 60
ft. Was it not for the kind of wall which the Steeple makes, it might be considered as
a continuation of the Church, and its length is therefore included in that of the
Church. A little to the left of the table is a small uninviting opening. Proceeding
only a few paces through the opening, you suddenly find yourself in an immense
Chamber, stretching from the Gallery of the Church with which it communicates,
parallel to the Dining Room, to its utmost extremity, and proportionably wide. This
is called Jackson's Room, and the floor is very irregular.

This room is rather uninteresting, but it leads to one that deserves a passing notice.
Directly opposite the little passage which conducted you hither, is a large opening,
passing this, the rocks contract until only a narrow pass is left, a few feet in length.
This conducts you, if not to the most magnificent, at least to the most beautiful and
interesting portion of the whole cavern. There is but one apartment and that is
small, but The Garden of Eden, for so it is called, derives its beauty from the singular
arrangement of the immense stalactites, hanging from the roof, and meeting the
stalagmites, which have ascended from the floor to meet them, or in few words, it
seems as if at some former period a sheet of water had poured down from the roof
and by some wonderful operation of Nature, had become suddenly petrified. This
sheet is not continuous, but strongly resembles the folds of heavy drapery, and you
may pass among the windings as through the mazes of a labyrinth, and the light of a
candle shines distinctly through any part of it.

A portion of the floor of this room, is composed of a beautiful, fine yellow sand,
whereas most of the cave is a stiff clay, with very few indications of sand.

Returning to the Dining Room, the next room, or perhaps it should be called passage,
is denominated The Wilderness, from the roughness of the path-way, and is
only 10 ft. wide, but it rises to the immense height of 90 or 100 feet! As we come
along the Causeway, and look down upon our right, we shall see our company 40 to
50 ft. below us, while our eyes can scarcely penetrate through the darkness, to the
ceiling above their heads. Upon the very verge of the rock upon which we are standing,
are several beautiful white stalagmites, grouped together, among which, one
stands pre-eminent. This is Bonaparte with his Body Guard, crossing the Alps. The
effect is peculiarly fine, when viewed from below.

Proceeding only a few paces from the Emperor you find yourself upon an arch,
under which your company are passing, which is very appropriately called The
Natural Bridge.

You are now upon the lowest level of the cave, and at the entrance of the farthest
room. This is Jefferson's Hall, an extensive, but not very elevated apartment,
quite level. Before I describe this room, we must diverge a little, and visit one or two
rooms, that branch off from the main path. Directly to your right, as you emerge
from the Wilderness, there rises an immense mass, apparently of solid stalagmite, 36
ft. in length, 30 ft. in breadth, and 30 ft. in height; this mass is beautiful beyond description,
very much resembling successive stories, and is called The Tower of Babell.
The most splendid portion of the Tower, is on the back, but it is difficult of access,
for it is necessary to climb up the surface of the rock to the height of 15 or 20 ft.
the view however, amply repays you for the labor.

For a few moments, you can scarcely convince yourself that an immense body of
water is not pouring over the precipice in a foaming cataract, so white, so dazzling
is the effulgence of the rock; and when this impression is effaced the words of the
pious Bard rush into the mind, where he describes the awful effects that will follow
the consummation of all things,

"The Cataract, that like a Giant wroth,
Rushed down impetuously, as seized at once
By sudden frost, with all his hoary locks,
Stood still!!

One might almost imagine, that Pollok had visited this wonder, and caught the
idea so forcibly expressed above, from viewing this magnificent scene.

We have already so much exceeded our intended limits, that we can only look into
the large apartment, that occupies the space behind the Tower, which is called Sir
Walter Scott'r Room,
and then hasten pack to the main path.

Jefferson's Room, that we left some time since, is very irregular in shape, and is 235
ft. long, following the various windings.

What is commonly called the end of the cave, is distinguished by two singular, thin,
lamellar rocks, 5 or 6 feet in diameter united at their bases, but spreading out so that
the outer edges are several feet apart, this is called The Fly Trap!

To the left of the Fly Trap, is a large recess, where is a fine spring, at which the
weary visiter is glad to slake his thirst, after the fatigues of his arduous undertaking.

A few yards beyond the Fly Trap, there is an opening on the solid wall, at the
height of about 12 ft. through which you are admitted by a temporary ladder. By
hard climbing you soon penetrate to the end of the recess, where you will find the
Source of the Nile! This is a beautiful, limped Spring covered over with a thin pellicle
of stalagmite, yet sufficiently strong to bear your weight,—in this crust there is
a perforation that gives you access to the water beneath.

At all seasons, the air of the cave is damp, but the dampness of the floor depends
much upon the seasons, if you except a moist place near the Fly Trap, there is no
standing water throughout all the cavern, so that no difficulty on that account occurs.
The temperature remains invariably in all parts, at about 56 degrees of Farenheit,
from which it follows, that if the cave is visited in the winter, its air feels quite
warm; but if in summer, a proportionable degree of cold is experienced. The spring
and fall are the best times for visiting, for then the atmosphere without, is nearly of
the same temperature with that within the cave, and it is more dry at these times.

*The Cyclopean Towers.—On a fine morning in September 1834, a party of which
the writer was one, consisting for the most part of gentlemen who had met together in
the town of Staunton from various sections of the Union, resolved on a visit to certain
remarkable NATURAL STRUCTURES which lay in the neighborhood of the Augusta
Springs, and about twenty miles distant from the place of their departure.

After passing over a hilly and picturesque country, the road opened upon a fertile
valley, which though in places narrow, was of considerable length,—and when seen
from an elevated position, appeared like the bed of an ancient lake, or as it really is,
the alluvial border of a flowing stream. The strata of limestone hills, followed their
usual order of parallel lines to the great mountains of our continent, as though a
strong current had once swept through this magnificent valley, forming in its course
islands and promontories, which are now discoverable in numerous short hills and
rocky bluffs, that are either naked and barren, or covered with a growth of stately
trees. It was at such a projection, that we first described the gray summits of what
seemed a ruinous castle,—resembling those which were raised in feudal times to
guard the passes of the Rhine, or like such as are still seen in mouldering majesty, on
many an Alpine rock. These summits or towers, of which there are seven, lifted
their heads above the lofty clms, like so many antique chimnies in the midst of a
grove, but, on approaching them nearer, our pleasure was greatly increased, to find
them rise almost perpendicularly from the bed of a small stream, which winding
around their base, serves as a natural moat to a building not made with mortal hands.
The southern front of this colossal pile, presents a wall of about sixty feet elevation,
terminating in three towers of irregular height, and perforated at its base by a cavern,—which,
by an apt association, was denominated "Vulcan's Forge." The tower
on the extreme right, was unanimously called "Cooke's Tower"—in honor of one of
our party who ascended it. On the left, are two other isolated towers,—of which the
centre or smaller one was distinguished as the "Hymcnial Altar,"—a name which had
its origin partly in a jeu d'esprit, and partly on account of a shady bower in its rear,
which seemed an appropriate shade to mantle maiden's blushes. The furthest and
tallest, received the title of the "Touer of Babol." This is also the most perpendicular
of all these rocky structures; an archway passes through it, by which there is an easy
ascent to the remaining two, which stand on the acchvity of the hill,—and though of
less altitude, are not of inferior beauty to the rest. One of them, which is of a round
form, and flat at the top, and on that account received the appellation of the "Table
Rock
"—affords from its summit a splendid view of the whole, the other, and last of
the five, we distinguished as "Shelton's Rock"—from one of our party.

These rocks in their formation resemble the palisades on the Hudson river—but are
more regular in their strata,—which appear to have been arranged in huge masses of
perfect workmanship—with projections like cornices of Gothie architecture, in a state
of dilapidation. Those who are acquainted with the structure of the Cyclopean walls
of the ancients, would be struck with the resemblance,—which suggested the name at
the head of this article.

We pause to inquire why these primeval fragments of the world have remained so
long unnoticed! Why is it that men are so easily awakened to the liveliest interest
in distant objects, and yet neglect those which are nearer and more accessible? "A
prophet" it hath been said on high authority, "hath honor save in his own country,"
and to that strange propensity of the mind to contemn whatever is familiar, must be
attributed the neglect of many of the richest treasures at our own door, which frequently
impart both wealth and distinction to foreign enterprise. For many years
these towers have been known in the surrounding country, by the homely appellation
of "The Chimneys,"—but no one has ever stopped to examine them, or to inquire
how nature formed so curious a pile in such a spot. Imagination may indeed conceive
that this noble structure was once the Scylla of a narrow strait connecting the
waters of the N. and the S. until their accumulated pressure burst through the Blue
Ridge at Harper's Ferry, and left in their subsidence these towers, as a perpetual
memorial of their former dominion.

BATH.

Bath County was created by the Legislature in 1791 from a portion of
Augusta, Bottetourt and Greenbrier. It is bounded by Augusta on the E.
—Rockbridge on the S. E.—Alleghany on the S. and S. W.—Greenbrier
on the W.—Pocahontas on the N. W., and Pendleton on the N. Its extent,


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from a ridge of the North mountain on the S. E., to the main Alleghany
ridge on the N. W. is 25 miles, and from Pendleton on the N. E.
to Alleghany on the S. W. 40 miles; and area 756 square miles. Extending
in lat. from 37° 50′ to 38° 25′ N. and in long 2° 18′ to 3° W. of
W. C.

The face of the country is very broken and in great part mountainous,
being situated at the eastern base of the great Alleghany ridge: about
one-eighth of it may be considered arable land, the mean elevation of which
is 1200 feet above the ocean. It is well watered by Jackson's river, and
its tributary, Back creek, (the latter washing the base of the Alleghany
mountain,) and by the Cow Pasture river, and its tributary, the Bull Pasture,
all of which have their sources in Pendleton county. Jackson river
and the Cow Pasture, afterwards forming a junction in Bottetourt county,
their united stream is styled James river. Into these streams descend from
the mountains numerous branches and rivulets,[34] affording innumerable
sites for mills and machinery. Each of those streams are separated by a
mountain running parallel thereto, none of which are considerable or
known by any name, beyond the limits of the county, except Jackson's or
the Warm Spring mountain. They are not remarkable for their height,
and excepting the one already mentioned do not exceed from 300 to 500
feet from their base, and are by no means sterile the soil on them being
tolerably good, and neither too rocky or too steep for tillage; producing
the most valuable kinds of timber, an extraordinary variety of shrubbery
and herbage, and abounding in limestone, iron ore, and springs of excellent
water. But it is as a grazing ground that they are chiefly valuable.
Large herds of cattle, ranging on them in the summer months.

The vallies between the mountains, which are from 2 to 5 miles wide,
are very fertile, a considerable portion entirely level, and in a fine state of
cultivation, producing abundant crops of grain and hay. The average
produce per acre, being as follows, to wit wheat and rye 20 to 30 bushels;
Indian corn 25 to 40; oats 20 to 30; buckwheat, and barley 25, potatoes
and turnips 100 bushels, flax, 200 lbs.; hemp 800 lbs.; and hay one to
two tons. The meadows are particularly fine, and the kinds of grass cultivated
are, timothy, clover, and blue grass, all of which flourish exceedingly.
A soil so well adapted to grain and grass, naturally induced the
proprietors to turn their attention to live stock. Accordingly, horses,
mules, cattle, (of the finest breeds) sheep and hogs are raised, and a considerable
number of them annually driven to market. Connected with the
management of live stock, is the dairy, which is here well understood
Large quantities of butter are made and sent to market. Wool also is an
article of which the quantity made is greater than the consumption, and is
increasing. Out of the flax and wool which they grow, the inhabitants of
this county manufacture all the clothing worn by themselves and the


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slaves on their farms. The soil and climate are particularly favorable to
fruit trees, and produce, apples and peaches in great abundance; every
farm having an orchard. Gardening is also practised to an extent equal
to the demand for family use.

In a section of country so much diversified with mountains and vallies,
abounding with mineral and other springs, pure air, and a temperate climate,
health and longevity may be expected. This is actually the case,
and in this respect it is not surpassed by any part of the United States.

In this county there are 2 attorneys, 2 physicians, 4 stores, 3 merchantmills,
18 grist mills, 16 saw mills, 4 carding machines, 3 tan yards, 2 tilt-hammers,
and 1 distillery.

Population in 1820, 5,237—in 1830, 4,002. Bath belongs to the 17th
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $837 24—in 1834,
on lots, 86 cts.—on land, $468 69—634 slaves, $158 50—2,117 horses,
$127 02—10 studs, $73 00—6 coaches, $14 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—2
gigs, $1 00—Total, $848 07. Expended in educating poor children in
1832, $142 53—in 1833, $203 75.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c

Bull Pasture, P. O. 164 miles
from R. and 206 from W. This is
the local name given to the higher
part of Cow Pasture river, or the
middle constituent of the James. It
rises in Pendleton and flows S. 20°
W. to its confluence with the Cow
Pasture in Bath. It is about 20 ms.
in length, 10 of which distance is in
each of the two counties. In that
portion of the Bull Pasture valley,
which lies in Bath, there are located
37 dwelling houses, 1 Presbyterian
house of worship, 1 school, 1 mercantile
store, a saddler, tailor, tilt-hammer,
and manufacturing mill;
and a population of about 370 persons.
The principal occupation of the inhabitants
is agriculture. In this
neighborhood there is a large spring
of limestone water, to which no bottom
has as yet been found. It rises
between two large rocks, from under
a bank covered with spruce pine, and
is called the Blue Spring. After
running about 40 yards, it discharges
itself into the Bull Pasture, on the
west side, about 3 ms. from its junction
with the Cow Pasture.

On that part of the Bull Pasture,
which lies beyond the Bath and Pendleton
line, are situated 63 dwelling
houses, 2 houses of public worship
(1 Methodist, and the other free for
all denominations,) 1 mercantile
store, 1 tanyard, and various mechanics;
the whole population is 630 persons,
one of whom is a physicians.

Flowing Spring, P. O. 206 ms.
S. W. of W. and 164 N. W. of R.,
situated in the valley of the Cow
Pasture, 16 ms. N. E. of the Warm
Springs. There is no town or village
at the place, and the spring is
private property. This spring intermits,
or ebbs and flows, affording
when the tide is up, sufficient water
for a grist mill, and when it ebbs,
leaves a stream large enough for the
supply of a distillery and a tanyard.
The water is of the purest and best
quality, equal in temperature to ice
water. In the dryest weather in summer,
the water flows out in a bold and
majestic stream, that astonishes those
who have witnessed the spring which
is left after it falls away. When the
flowing commences, the water comes
in a body as if let loose from a dam.
Issuing from the rocks at the foot of
a hill, it continues to run for ten or
twelve hours, then gradually declines.
There is no regularity in the flowing,
in the same kind of weather it


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will vary from two to three days,—
sometimes flowing every day—at
other times at intervals of two or
three days. Neither is there any
particular period of time at which
the water rises. This irregularity
has created the greatest difficulty in
accounting for it. A mill, a distillery,
and tanyard are supplied with water
from this spring.

Green Valley, P. O. 157 ms.
N. W. by W. of R. and 199 S. W.
by W. of W., situated on Stewart's
creek, a branch of the Cow Pasture
river, 12 ms. E. of the Warm Springs,
on the main post road.

Hot Springs, P. O. 217 ms. S.
W. by W. of W. and 175 N. W. by
W. of R.—situated between the Cow
Pasture and the eastern branch of
Jackson's river, at the base of a lofty
mountain of the same name, 5 ms. S.
S. W. of the Warm Springs, and 57
S. W. by W. of Staunton, on the main
post road leading from Richmond to
Guyandotte on the Ohio. These
springs are numerous, probably
amounting to twenty, issuing from the
hill upon which the hotel is situated,
and all varying in their temperature,
presenting every variety, from 51° to
107°. As yet however there have
been only three baths constructed.
One called the hot bath or boiler,
over which there has been erected a
large and handsome building, containing
fifteen rooms; a portion of
which together with one-half of the
Bath, is appropriated exclusively to
ladies, and the residue with the other
half of the bath to gentlemen. The
second bath is called the Spout, from
a pipe of water of the temperature of
106°, which falls into the body of
the bath, from a height of 7 or 8 feet
from its bottom. The third is called
the Temperate Bath. Its temperature
always corresponding with that
of the blood of the human system;
over this spring is now in progress of
erection an octagonal house, nearly
120 feet in the clear, with convenient
dressing rooms attached. The accommodations
though considerably
improved in the last two years, are
still very defective. The property,
however has been recently purchased
by Dr. Goode, who has commenced
its improvement on an extensive scale,
and will probably in the course of
two years have a sufficient number
of buildings erected to accommodate
all who are desirous of obtaining relief
from the waters. These waters
are principally celebrated for their
efficacy in cutaneous, rheumatic,
dyspeptic, and liver affections. They
are however resorted to for every
species of disease, and perhaps there
is none in which one or the other of
the baths have not proved beneficial.
There are no local improvements at
the Hot Springs, excepting those
mentioned. The country around to
a considerable extent being the property
of an individual, it has prevented
the settlement of mechanics,
merchants, or professional men. The
proprietor, Dr. Goode, is himself an
eminent physician.

Three miles S. W. of the Hot
Springs, are situated what are called
the Healing Springs. They have
not yet come fully into notice, but
have of late met with considerable
attention, and it is confidently believed
by those who are acquainted with
the efficacy of their waters, to be the
best in the United States. They consist
of several small warm springs. They
have never been analized, but have
performed some very extraordinary
cures where the other mineral springs
have failed.

Milboro' Spring, P. V. 157 ms.
from R. and 199 S. W. by W. of W.
Milboro' is a small village situated
on the free turnpike road, leading
from Staunton, through Panther's
Gap, to the Warm Springs,—6 ms.
W. of the Gap, 13 E. of the Springs,
22 N. W. of Lexington, and 1½ from
Cow Pasture river, which is navigable
from this point by boats for three


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months in the year. It contains 25
buildings, several of which are of
brick, a mercantile store, tavern,
manufacturing flour mill, blacksmith
and tilt-hammer shop, (on an extensive
scale,) 1 wagon maker, and 1
hatter. The situation of this village
is pleasant and eligible,—near a sulphur
spring, which has been famed
for the medicinal qualities of its
waters, and was formerly much frequented.
This is a place of considerable
business, being located in a
thickly settled neighborhood, surrounded
by handsome and fertile
farms, producing all kinds of grain
and stock. One mile from this village,
on the right hand side of the
turnpike leading to the Warm Springs,
is situated the Blowing Cave. Near
the north bank of the Cow Pasture
river, between the cave and Milboro',
stands a house of public worship,
called the Wind Cave Meeting
House,
which is free for all denominations.
A turnpike road is being
made from this place to Lexington, a
considerable portion of which is already
in operation.

Ruckmanville, P. O. 180 ms.
from R. and 222 S. W. by W. from
W. Ruckmanville, though called a
village, is simply a post office, established
in 1827, and called after the
proprietor of the place, who resides
here and keeps a house of entertainment.
It is situated 27 ms. N. of
the Warm Springs, on the main post
road leading from Franklin to Huntersville,
and 25 ms. from the mouth of
Back creek. This creek rises in
Pendleton county, and after running
40 or 50 ms. along the eastern base
of the Alleghany mountain empties
into Jackson's river, a branch of the
James. Its principal branches are
the Valley branch, which intersects
the same at Ruckmanville, and Little
Back creek about 20 miles below at
Gateswood.—The surrounding country
is mountainous. The upland is
uneven, but the soil is good, producing
in abundance, grass, corn, wheat,
rye, oats, potatoes, buckwheat, flax,
&c. The timber is, sugar maple,
chesnut, beech, various kinds of oak,
sycamore, locust, hickory and walnut.
The neighborhood is thickly
settled with industrious and wealthy
farmers.

WARM SPRINGS, P. V. and
seat of justice, 170 ms. N. W. of R.
and 212 S. W. of W. This village
is situated in a narrow valley, between
two high mountains, which run parallel
from N. E. to S. W. The
view from many points of these
mountains is grand and picturesque
in the extreme. The beauty and
grandeur of the scene from the Warm
Spring Rock,
has become very celebrated;
but must be seen to be appreciated.
This village contains besides
the ordinary county buildings, about
14 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile
stores, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, and 3
blacksmiths. The ordinary population,
consists of about 137 persons, of
whom 1 is a physiciam. The accommodations
for visiters to the waters
are also very extensive, consisting
of about five and twenty cabins,
most of which are of brick, besides
the new Thermal Hotel, which has
lately been erected, at great cost to
the proprietors, and which is a large
brick building, about 135 feet long,
containing a dining room for 200
persons, a drawing room, a ball room,
and about five and twenty comfortable
chambers. The front is adorned by
a large portico, the whole length of
the house, supported by fourteen Doric
columns, which affords an agreeable
shade during the heat of the day,
and a fine promenade, as well for the
invalid, as for the beaux and belles.
Any one who has ever taken the
bath here will never forget its luxury,
and to those who have not, it is
impossible to convey a just idea of
the delicious sensations it causes.

It is much to be regretted, that all
our valuable mineral waters have not


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been faithfully analysed. Thousands
of our citizens annually resort to the
watering-places west of the Blue
Ridge, for the purpose of preserving
or repairing health. The climate in
the autumnal months cannot be surpassed
for salubrity, and very many
invalids are relieved from pain and
sickness by the united power of air
and water. In Europe, no one thinks
of using waters whose contents are
not accurately ascertained by men of
science; but unfortunately in our
country, copious libations are made,
before it is known whether the quality
of the water is adapted to the particular
case or not. A careful analysis
of the water at the Warm Springs
has been obligingly furnished to the
proprietors by a distinguished Professor
of Chemistry, (Mr. Rogers, of
William and Mary,) and the result is
as follows:

"Contents of the Waters of the Bath,
at the Warm Springs, as ascertained
by Chemical Analysis:

"The bath is an Octagon 38 ft. in
diameter, and 16 ft. 9 in inside—its
area is 1163 77 ft.

"The ordinary depth of water being
5 ft. the cubic capacity is 5818 86
ft. or 43533 32 gallons. Notwithstanding
the leaks, this quantity of
water will flow into the Reservoir, in
one hour.

"The average temperature of the
Bath is 98 deg. Fahrenheit. The
Gas, which rises in the Bath, consists
of Nitrogen, with minute quanties
of Sulphuretted Hydrogen and
Carbonic Acid.

"Besides this Gas, each gallon of
water contains 45 cubic inches of
Gas, consisting of

     
Nitrogen  3.25 cub in 
Sulphuretted Hydrogen  0.25 cub in 
Carbonic Acid  1.00 cub in 

"The Saline contents of one gallon
of the water, are as follows:

           
Muriate of Lime  3.968 
Sulphate of Magnesia  9.984 
Carbonate of Lime  4.288 
Sulphate of Lime  5.466 
A trace of Soda, no doubt, in
the state of Muriate, 
23.706" 

From this account, which may be
implicitly relied on, it appears that
while the Warm Springs afford the
most luxurious bath in the world,
they contain neutral salts and various
gases, which act as a gentle aperient,
diuretic and sudorific, and give tone
and vigor to the human system. It
is well ascertained in other countries,
that waters of a high temperature
tend more to strengthen the digestive
organs than those of a low temperature;
but it is found, by actual experiment,
that the water at the Warm
Springs retains a considerable portion
of its useful qualities when bottled
in the Spring, and then cooled
by immersing the bottles in cold
water or even ice, and this plan is
adopted by many of those who have
a repugnance to the use of warm
water.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday
in every month.—Quarterly
in March, June, August and Nevember.

Judge Taylor, holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 25th of April and September.

Willsonville, P. O. 178 ms. N.
W. by W. of R. and 220 S. W. by
W. of W., situated in the south western
part of the county. Willsonville
is the name of a farm at which the
P. O. is located, and which contains
more than 1200 acres, 400 of which
are level and in good cultivation, producing
well, wheat, rye, oats, corn,
buckwheat, &c., and the dairy produces
per annum from 12 to 1500
wt. of butter. There is also a blacksmith's
shop, grist and saw mill in
the centre of the farm; the latter
moved by water of Jackson's river.
As a farm, this will bear comparison
with any in the Valley of Virginia.
It is 20 ms. from the Warm Springs,


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and 35 from Franklin, (the county
seat of Pendleton,) between which
places the road is entirely level, and
runs along the vallies of Jackson's
river, and South Branch of Potomac.
A weekly mail arrives here on every
Monday.

 
[34]

Among these, Falling Spring Creek deserves notice. It rises in the Warm
Spring mountains about 20 miles S. W. of the Warm Springs, and flows into that
valley. About three-quarters of a mile from its source, it falls over a rock 200 feet
into the valley below. The sheet of water is broken in its breadth by the rock in
two or three places, but not at all in its height.—Between the sheet and rock at the
bottom one may walk across dry. This cataract will bear no comparison with that
of Niagara as to the quantity of water eomposing it—the sheet being only 12 or 15
feet wide above, and somewhat more below, but it is half as high again. The latter
being only 156 feet according the mensuration made by order of Mons. Vaudreuil,
Governor of Canada, and 130 according to a mere recent account.

BERKLEY.

Berkley was created in 1772, from a portion of the county of Frederick.
It is bounded by Jefferson E. and S. E.—Frederick S. and S. W.—
Morgan W. and N. W.—and by the Potomac, separating it from Washington
county, Maryland, N. and N. E. Its mean length is 22½ miles, mean
breadth 13; and area 308 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 39° 14′ to 39°
45′ N. and long from 1° 14′ to 2° 11′ W. of W. C. Back and Opequhan
creeks run through this county in nearly parallel directions, and near the
borders of the county, in a northeasterly direction, and give the general
slope of the county their own direction. The surface of this county is
much broken, and very mountainous, the arable surface of the farms has a
mean elevation of from 5 to to 700 feet above tide water.

Anthracite coal has lately been discovered in the western section of this
county of a very superior quality, and in great abundance. The valley in
which it is found is a continuation of the valley which produces such large
quantities in Pensylvania, and the proximity of the mine to the Chesapeake
and Ohio canals will afford the facilities of a ready transportation to market.
This discovery if it should prove as successful as there is every reason
to anticipate, will convert a region heretofore barren and almost without
a single inhabitant, into an inexhaustible source of private and public
wealth—multiplying the inhabitants, extending the comfort of individuals
and adding to the permanent revenue of the State.

Population in 1810, 11,479,—in 1820, 11,211—in 1830, 10,528. This
county belongs to the 13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in
1833, $3401 46—in 1834, on lots, $238 79—land, $2194 90—975 slaves,
$242 75—4369 horses, $264 19—20 studs, $162 00—65 coaches,
$143 65—11 carryalls, $11 60—12 gigs, $11 05. Total, $3267 48.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $854 18—in 1833,
$570 09.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Berlington Mills, P. O. recently
located.

Darksville, P. V. 165 ms. from
R. and 86 from W., situated on Sulphur
Spring
creek, a branch of Opequhan,
25 ms. N. W. of Harper's
Ferry, and on the post road leading
from Martinsburg to Winchester, 7
ms. from the former and 15 from the
latter, near a beautiful stream called
Middle Creek. The soil in the vicinity
is very fertile and principally
limestone formation. The scenery
around is picturesque and agreeable.
It contains 32 dwelling houses, 2
mercantile stores, 1 house of public
worship, (Methodist,) 2 common
schools, 1 fulling and dying establishment,
1 manufacturing flour mill,
1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 wagon
maker, and 2 weavers; coopers
and shoemakers are the most numerous
class of mechanics. A Sulphur
Spring is situated about 3 ms. E. of


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this place on a little creek which
falls into the Opequan, at the distance
of 300 yards from the spring. Here
the scenery is delightful. The beautiful
Opequan winds and meanders
along in a manner that must interest
the dullest fancy. There is a large
house near this spring which was
occupied as a boarding house some 3
or 4 years since, when these springs
were in vogue. These waters are
strongly impregnated with sulphuretted
hydrogen, and act as a gentle
purgative, from which it may be inferred
that they contain saline matter.
It was a place of much resort,
but is now from the want of accommodation,
visited only by the passing
traveller, or those who dwell in the
vicinity. This is to be regretted, for
with its scenery and the excellent
qualities of the waters, it could not
fail to be a source of renovation to
the invalid.

Falling Waters, P. O. 79 ms.
N. W. of W. and 180 from R. The
Falling Waters are situated on the
bank of the Potomac, about lat. 39°
29′ N. and long. 0° 44′ W. of W. C.,
8 ms. from Martinsburg, and 5 S.
W. of Williamsport, Md. at the
isthmus formed by a circular bend in
the river, of about 21 ms. in perimeter,
and only 4 across. It contains
but 3 dwelling houses, 1 of which
has been long occupied as a tavern,
1 manufacturing flour mill, a mill
for grinding lime for hydraulic cement,
a cooper's shop and post office.
Population 34, 9 of whom are slaves.
There are in the vicinity 1 Presbyterian
and 2 Methodist houses of
worship, and 1 school, in which is
taught all the ordinary branches of
an English education. The mills are
situated immediately on the banks of
the river, and are moved by the
stream from a large spring which
rises about 60 rods from them, and
which is dammed at the mill to the
height of twenty-four feet; forming a
beautiful pond, which is the favorite
resort of water fowl, and abounds
with fish of a superior quality to
those in the river. The view from
this point of the valley of the Potomac,
and the Chesapeake and Ohio
canal, for several miles up and down
the river, is highly picturesque. The
soil in this neighborhood is various,
but generally consists of a bright
yellowish clay. It produces from 15
to 20 bushels of wheat to the acre,
and about the same quantity of maize,
but the low grounds on the margin
of the river are generally dark and
loamy, and produce from 20 to 25
bushels to the acre. The principal
productions are wheat, rye, maize,
and potatoes. The gardens produce
in abundance all the culinary vegetables
adapted to the climate, and the
lands generally nearly all of the fruit
trees, forest trees, shrubs, &c. that
are to be found in the same latitude.
Iron ore is found in many places on
the surface of the ground, but no attempt
has ever been made to discover
a mine. Limestone and a species of
soft slate abound. There is an excellent
never failing chalybeate spring
at Grigg's Tavern. The name of
Falling Waters was given to this
place before the mills were erected,
from the precipitous fall of the mill
stream over a large alluvial rock,
which is 200 feet above the surface of
the river.

Gerardstown, P. V. 166 ms. from
R. and 87 from W., situated in the
southern part of the county. This
village contains 35 dwelling houses,
2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 3 houses
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian, 1
Methodist and 1 Lutheran,) 1 common
school, 1 temperance society, 1
bible society, 1 tract society, and 1
well organized sunday school, 1 tanyard,
1 saddler, 2 blacksmith shops,
2 wagon makers, 4 boot and shoe
factories, and 3 weavers. In the
vicinity and on mill creek, are 4
manufacturing flour mills, 1 grist
mill and 1 carding machine. Popu-


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lation whites 150, of whom 1 is a
physician; colored 22—total 172.

MARTINSBURG, P. V. and
seat of justice, 172 ms. from R. and
71 N. W. of W. in lat. 39° 27′ N.
and long. 0° 58′ W. of W. C. Martinsburg
is a flourishing and wealthy
village. It contains besides the county
buildings, about 300 houses, many
of them handsome and spacious
brick buildings, 8 miscellaneous
stores, 4 houses of public worship, (3
built of stone, and 1 of brick—for
Presbyterians, Lutherans, Roman
Catholics, and Episcopalians,) a well
built market house, 1 male and 1 female
academy, 3 common schools, 4
well organized sunday schools, a
temperance, missionary, bible, and
colonization society, an alms house,
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 woolen
manufactory, and 1 iron and brass
foundry, with a cupola furnace, and
water power, and 2 druggist shops.
The mechanical pursuits are—2
printing offices, each issuing a weekly
paper, 2 tanyards, 2 saddleries, 2
boot and shoe factories, 1 confectioner,
4 tailors, 1 chair maker, 4 wagon
makers, 1 plough maker, 1 hatter, 2
cabinet makers, 2 tin and copper smiths,
2 white smiths, and 3 blacksmiths.
Population in 1830, 1600 persons, of
whom 4 are resident attornies and 5
physicians. Martinsburg is distant
22 ms. N. of Winchester, 21 N. W.
of Harper's Ferry, 13 S. of Williamsport,
on the Maryland side of
the Potomcc, 10 ms. W. of Shepperdstown,
25 S. E. of Berkley
Springs, 5 E. of North mountain,
and 7 miles S. of the nearest point on
the Potomac river, and Chesapeake
and Ohio canal.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Parker holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 19th of March and 15th of
September.

Mill Creek, P. O. 162 ms. from
R. and 83 from W.

BOTETOURT.

Botetourt was created by act of Assembly in 1769, and formed out of
a part of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Alleghany,—N. E. by
Rockbridge,—E. by Bedford,—S. by Franklin,—S. W. by Montgomery,—
and W. by Giles and Monroe. Its mean length is 37 miles—breadth 28;
and area 1057 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 37° 08′ to 37° 46′ N. and in
long. from 2° 28′ to 3° 19′ W. of W. C. This mountainous and elevated
county slopes in two directions,—the one eastward towards the general
course of the James and Roanoke rivers, and the other northeastward towards
the Great Valley, between the Blue Ridge and North mountains.
Salem on the Roanoke, and in the southern part of the county, is 1006 feet
above tide water, and Pattonsburg on James river, in the northeastern part
of the county, is 806 feet. The acclivity is rapid towards the western
border on Pott's mountain, and the mean elevation of the arable soil may
be assumed at 1250 feet. There is a great deal of very valuable fertile
land in this county. The great body of the county is drained by the
James and its tributaries, but the southern angle by the Roanoke and its
branches; both rivers are navigable from this county to tide water.

Population in 1820, 13,590—in 1830, 16,354. This county belongs to
the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3682 00
—in 1834 on lots, $259 64—on land, $2127 42—2634 slaves, $658 50—


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Page 328
5466 horses, $327 96—23 studs, $245 00—36 coaches, $98 85—2 stages,
$8 00—25 carryalls, $27 00—15 gigs, $9 00. Total, $3760 37. Expended
in educating poor children in 1832, $982 58—in 1833, $932 36.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Amsterdam, P. O. 181 ms. W. of
R. and 240 from W., situated in a
healthy part of the county, 15 ms.
from Buchanan, 16 from Salem, and
5 from Fincastle directly on the main
western post road. It contains 30
houses, 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 1 general
store, 1 tanyard, 3 blacksmith shops,
1 cabinet maker, 1 wagon maker, and
2 saddlers. Population 109 persons,
of whom 1 is a physician.

Big Lick, P. O., situated in the
southeastern part of the county, 53
ms. S. W. of Lynchburg, 173 W. of
R. and 250 S. W. by W. of W.

Botetourt Springs, P. O. 189
ms. W. of R. and 246 from W., situated
on the main valley post road,
leading from Winchester, Va. to
Knoxville, Ten., about 12 ms. W. of
Fincastle. The houses are sufficient
for the accommodation of about 100
visiters,—are built of brick, and
handsomely arranged in the form of
three sides of a square. The mineral
spring contains sulphur, magnesia,
and carbonic acid gas. There is
on the same tract a house of public
worship, free for all denominations.

Buchanan, see Pattonsburg.

Clover Dale, P. O. 186 ms. W.
of R. and 244 from W.

Craig's Creek, P. O. 243 ms.
from W. and 184 from R.—8 ms. W.
of Fincastle.

Dagger's Springs, situated in the
northern part of the county, within
two and a half miles of James river,
16 ms. above Pattonsburg and Buchanan,
on the road thence to the White
Sulphur Springs, from which they
are distant 42 ms., from Lexington
22, and about the same distance from
the Natural Bridge. The water is
similar in quality to that of the White
Sulphur Springs in Greenbrier, and
are held in the highest estimation by
those who have used them. Accommodations
are provided for 70 or 80
persons.

FINCASTLE, P. V. and seat of
justice,
176 ms. W. of R. and 235 S.
W. of W. in lat. 37° 28′ and long.
2° 57′ W. of W. C. A flourishing
and wealthy village, situated on the
right bank of Catawba creek. It
contains besides the ordinary county
buildings 260 dwelling houses, and
mechanics shops, most of which are
built with brick, a Presbyterian, Episcopalian,
and a Methodist house of
worship, 1 male and 1 female academy,
1 well organized fire company,
1 temperance society, 3 taverns, 6
mercantile stores, 2 druggist's shops,
1 manufacturing flour mill, to which
is attached a wool-carding machine,
and an oil mill. The mechanical establishments
are,—1 printing office,
issuing a weekly paper, 1 confectionary,
2 clock and watch makers, 1
gun smith, 4 blacksmiths, 4 boot and
shoe factories, 2 tailors, 2 hatters, 2
tanners, 5 cabinet makers and house-joiners,
2 wheelwrights, 1 chair maker,
1 copper-smith and tin-plate
worker, 4 saddlers, 4 wagon makers,
and 1 saddle-tree maker. White
population 468 persons; of whom 9
are attorneys, and 3 regular physicians;
slaves 192, free colored 43,—
total 703. The corporate powers are
vested in 7 trustees, chosen annually.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday
in every month,—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 1st of April and September.


329

Page 329

Fluke's P. O. 163 ms. from R.
and 241 from W.

Henderson's, P. O. 185 ms. from
R. and 227 S. W. of W.

New Castle, P. V. 193 ms. from
R. and 252 S. W. by W. of W, situated
in the western part of the county,
in the fork of Craig's creek, 15
ms. S. W. of Fincastle. It contains
19 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile
stores, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 1
powder and 1 oil mill, 1 wool carding
machine, 1 tavern, 1 academy,
and 1 house of public worship, (Methodist,)
1 iron foundry, 1 blacksmith
shop, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1 tan
yard, 2 cabinet makers, 1 hatter, 1
wagon maker, 1 saddler, 1 tailor, 1
house carpenter, and 1 boat builder
Population 105.

Pattonsburg and Buchanan, P. Villages, 181 ms. from R. and
223 N. W. of W. These two villages
were incorporated by an act of
Assembly of 1832-3. They are situated
on James river, the first on the
N. and the last on the S. side. The
two are connected by a handsome,
permanent toll-bridge across the river.
They are 25 miles above Lexington,
12 below Fincastle, and 40 N. W.
by W. of Lynchburg. The main
western valley stage road runs thro'
each of them, and the stage passes
daily either up or down. The advantages
for trade possessed by the
two places above those of any other
town in Western Virginia, are such
as to insure their gradual if not rapid
increase. The contemplated improvements
on James river, and the
construction of roads opening a better
communication with the adjacent
counties, when completed, will greatly
increase the trade, and they will
no doubt become the place of deposite
not only for the produce of many of
the western counties of Virginia, and
parts of Tennessee and Kentucky,
but also of most of the goods now
wagoned by land from the northern
and eastern towns to the west. The
two places are at present of about an
equal size, and contain together about
50 dwelling houses, 8 mercantile
stores, 1 house of public worship, (a
handsome brick building) free for all
denominations, 1 common school, 2
tobacco and 1 cordage and bagging
factory, 1 foundry and tilt hammer
manufactory, 1 grist and saw mill,
(and one other in the vicinity,) 1 tobacco
warehouse, at which the inspection
has been revived, also an inspection
of flour. The mechanical
establishments are—1 tannery, 1 saddlery,
1 boot and shoe factory, 3 tailors,
3 smith shops, 1 thrashing machine
factory, and several wheelwrights,
carpenters and bricklayers.
In addition to which several private
residences and a considerable mercantile
establishment are erecting in
the vicinity of the western end of
Buchanan. Population in both villages
about 356 persons; of whom 2
are attorneys and 2 regular physicians.

Rebecca Furnace, P. O. 178
ms. from R. and 220 N. W. of W.
This furnace and another four and a
half miles distant from it, are the
property of Mr. D. J. Wilson; they
are situated on Longs Entry creek, a
branch of James river, within three
and a half miles of the river, which
is navigable thus far for boats of from
four to seven tons burthen. The
post office is located 18 ms. S. W. of
Fincastle, 22 N. E. of Lexington,
and 15 ms. from Pattonsburg and
Buchanan, and derives its name
from the furnace. At these two establishments
called the Rebecca and
the Jane furnaces, are employed 150
operatives, 87 of which are blacks.
The former of these furnaces has
been in operation 9 years, and has
manufactured on an average from
800 to 850 tons of pig metal per annum.
The latter has been in operation
only one year, and manufactured
an equal quantity. There is a White
Sulphur Spring adjoining the fur-


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nace property, similar in quality to the
well known White Sulphur in Greenbrier
county, and is called by the
name of Dagger's or Wilson's
springs. This property has lately
been sold to a gentleman of Richmond,
who has improved it in a handsome
style, so as to afford first rate
accommodations. It must become a
place of considerable resort, as it has
for several years past been visited by
from 2 to 300 persons, and has given
relief where other springs have been
known to fail.—There is also a forge
within 7 or 8 miles of these furnaces,
known by the name of James river
forge, at which are employed from 60
to 100 operatives, principally black;
manufacturing from 2 to 300 tons of
bar iron annually.

Salem, P. V. 180 ms. from R. and
256 S. W. of W., situated in the
southern part of the county, 60 ms.
S. W. of Lynchburg, in the Great Valley
between the Blue Ridge and
North mountain, at an elevation of
1020 feet above the level of the Atlantic.
It contains 70 houses, including
mechanic shops, &c., 6 mercantile
stores, 3 taverns, 3 houses of public
worship, (1 Methodist, 1 Presbyterian
and 1 Baptist,) 2 female and
1 male school, 1 manufacturing
flour mill, with a saw mill and wool
carding machine adjoining, (and
1 other in the vicinity, with a saw
mill annexed, both running 2 pair of
buhrs and 2 pair of country stones
and elevators,) 1 tan yard, 1 cabinet
maker, 2 saddlers, 5 blacksmith
shops, 1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tailors,
1 extensive wheat fan manufactory,
several carpenters, 1 house
painter, and 1 hat manufactory. The
Roanoke navigation from Weldon,
N. C. to this place is completed by
canals, sluices, &c.—distance from
Weldon to Salem 244 ms. White
population 260 persons, of whom 2
are attorneys, and 3 regular physicians;
colored 90—total 350.

BROOKE.

Brooke was established by the Legislature in 1797, and taken from a
portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by the Ohio river, which separates
it from Columbiana co. Ohio,—W. by the same river, separating it
from Jefferson co. of the same State,—S. by Ohio co. Va.,—and E. by Beaver
and Washington counties of Pennsylvania. Its mean length is 31 ms.,
mean breadth 6½; and its area 202 square miles. The surface of this
county is very hilly, but the soil is very fertile.

Buffaloe, Cross, Haman's, Tomlison's, and a few other creeks of smaller
size rise in Pennsylvania and flow through Brooke into the Ohio river.
The products of the county are grain, iron, and bituminous coal. Population
in 1810, 5,843—1820, 6,631—1830, 7,041. It belongs to the 20th
judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,312 37—in 1834,
on lots, $207 50—land, $721 48—110 slaves, $27 50—2896 horses,
$173 76—18 studs, $114 00—7 coaches, $15 00—26 carryalls, $26 00
—5 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1,287 74. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $530 13—in 1833, $476 28.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Bethany, P. V. 375 ms. N. W.
of R. and 282 N. W. by W. of W.
It was founded in 1818, and is situated
26 miles from the borough of


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Washington in Pensylvania, on the
beautiful stream of Buffaloe creek, 7
miles E. of the Ohio river. It is
surrounded by romantic scenery, and
the creek curves around it in the
exact form of a horse shoe, making a
rich alluvial bottom of 120 acres.
The surrounding country is hilly,
variegated and very fertile, well watered,
and for salubrity of air it cannot
be surpassed in the United States.
This village is the residence and the
property of Alexander Campbell, the
celebrated reforming Baptist preacher.
It contains several dwelling houses,
1 house of public worship, 1 mercantile
store, 1 manufacturing flour mill,
and saw mill, a printing office, bookbindery,
smith shop, and various
other mechanical establishments.
Bethany is about 16 ms. from Wheeling,
8 from Wellsburg, and 38 from
Pittsburg, Pa. The products of the
vicinity are flour, pork, beef and
wool. The wool growing branch of
husbandry is increasing, and the article
will soon become one of the
chief staples in this part of the country.
Population 100.

Fairview, P. O. 395 ms. from R.
and 302 N. W. by of W. Fairview
or N. Manchester, is situated 20 ms.
N. of Wellsburg, 2 from the Ohio
river on the W. and 4 from the Pennsylvania
line on the E. Its situation
is beautifully elevated and healthy.
It was laid out in 1811 and now contains
22 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile
stores, 2 houses of public worship,
(Presbyterian,) and 1 common
school, 2 tanyards, and 1 saddler.
The other mechanics are tailors, boot
and shoe makers, carpenters, stone
cutters, chair makers, hatters, coopers,
blacksmiths, and cabinet makers.
In the vicinity there are 4 manufacturing
flour mills. New Manchester
possesses many advantages as a
place of business for the mechanic,
manufacturer and merchant. Population
132 persons; of whom 3 are
regular physicians.

Holliday's Cove, P. O. 384 ms.
from R. and 291 N. W. of W.
Holliday's Cove is situated near the
centre of the county. It is a small
but beautiful valley, of a semicircular
form, both ends of which terminate
on the Ohio river, being 5 ms.
in length and one broad. It deserves
to be classed among the natural curiosities
of Virginia. It is supposed
to have been once the channel of the
river, or of one branch of it. Between
this and the present channel
there is literally an island, the summit
of which is at least 400 feet above
the level of the river, and upon
which there are three or four fine
plantations. It contains in all about
1000 acres of good land. The S. W.
extremity of the valley opens in full
view of the town of Steubenville,
Ohio, and the northwestern opens on
the Ohio immediately at the S. end of
Brown's Island. The eastern side
is washed by Harmon's creek, affording
a very considerable amount
of water power, which at present
serves a woollen factory, 4 or 5 manufacturing
flour mills, and several saw
mills. The flour manufactured at
these mills, stands high in point of
quality in the southern markets. The
soil is first rate. The principal staple
is wool, of which three or four of
the farmers have raised for some
years about 10,000 weight. The
manufactures are woollen cloths, casinetts,
&c. and flour,—the average
shipments of which from the valley
is annually about 10,000 barrels, the
principal part being manufactured in
it. There is no village or town yet
laid out, but rapid improvements are
going up, on the principal road which
is the great thoroughfare from Pittsburg,
Pa. to Steubenville.—There
are at present about 40 dwelling
houses, 2 mercantile stores, and 2
taverns. The religious denominations
are Presbyterians and Christian
Baptists. There are a missionary, a
temperance, and sunday school socie-


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ty. The mechanics are, 3 blacksmiths,
3 house carpenters, 1 stone
mason, 2 boot and shoe factories, and
1 cabinet maker. This section of
country has been truly styled the
garden spot of Brooke county, and
being so healthy bids fair to sustain
a large and flourishing population,
and perhaps no part of Virginia offers
a greater opening for capitalists
than this, especially for manufacturers.
Fuel, &c. may be had for little
or no expense, as the surrounding
hills abound with inexhaustible mines
of stone coal and timber of every
description. Population about 300.

WELLSBURG, P. V. and seat
of justice,
337 ms. from R. and 280
N. W. by W. from W., in lat 41°
18′ and long. 3° 36′ W. of W. C.
This is a healthy and wealthy village,
beautifully situated on the left
bank of the Ohio river, immediately
above Buffaloe creek, 16 ms. above
Wheeling, on a plain surrounded by
a fertile, well improved and healthy
country: and inexhaustible bodies of
the best stone coal abound on all
sides of the place; which is furnished
at from 4 to 5 cts per bushel, to the
different manufactories, as fuel to the
citizens, and for shipping to the
southern markets. The neighborhood
is rich and cheerful and rapidly
improving; the people feeling the
benefit of the home market. This
flourishing village contains, besides
the ordinary county buildings, about
225 dwelling houses, 2 houses of
public worship, one Methodist, the
other Reformed Baptist, 5 mercantile
stores, 1 grocery and confectionary,
and 2 shoe stores, 1 academy, in
which are taught the Greek and Latin
languages; 3 female and 1 male
English school, 2 white flint glassworks,
1 glass-cutting establishment,
(the machinery propelled by steam
power,) 1 large cotton factory, with a
front of 72 feet, and 4 stories high,
now running 1200 spindles—employing
60 operatives, 1 steam saw mill,
which cuts 3000 feet of plank in 12
hours, 1 small woollen manufactory,
1 grist mill, 1 carpet factory, a carding
machine, and salt manufactory, 1
extensive stone and red-ware pottery,
2 tan yards, 3 saddlers, 2 printing
offices, each issuing a weekly paper,
and various other mechanics, 2 extensive
porter breweries, 3 large warehouses,
3 extensive manufacturing
mills in the vicinity, one of which
manufactured 10,000 barrels of flour
the past year. There are between 30
and 40,000 barrels of flour exported
annually, from this place in steam
and flat boats to New Orleans. Its
population is about 1400 persons, of
whom 3 are resident attorneys and 4
regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the last
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, May, August and November.

Judge Fry holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 4th of May and October.

CABELL.

Cabell was created by the legislature in the year 1809, and formed
from a portion of Kanawha county,—It is bounded N. E. by Mason, E. by
Kanawha, S. E. by Logan, W. by Sandy river, which separates it from
Lloyd, Lawrence and Greenwich counties, of Kentucky, and N. by Ohio
river which separates it from Galia and Lawrence counties, of Ohio. Its
mean length is 35 ms.; mean breadth 29½, and area 1,033 sq. ms. It extends
in lat. from 37° 55′ to 38° 40′ N. and in long. from 4° 45′, to 5° 34′
W. of W. C. Besides the great boundary rivers of Ohio, and great Sandy,


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Cabell is watered by Guyandotte river and Twelve Pole creek, both of
which rise in Logan, and flow through this county, dividing it into three
nearly equal parts; of these the former is much the largest and longest,—it
flows through the county in a north eastern direction, and empties into the
Ohio, a few ms. below Barboursville. The face of the country is broken
and mountainous, and the soil for the most part rocky and barren. Population
in 1810,2,717—in 1820, 4,789,—during both of these periods Cabell
included about one-third of the present county of Logan, in 1830 when the
county was reduced to its present limits, it contained 5,834. Tax paid in
1833, $666 14—in 1834 on lots, $33 51—on land, $315 30—313 slaves,
$78 25—2,060 horses, $123 60—16 studs, $73 00—1 coach, $2 00—2
stages, $4 00—6 carryalls, $6 00. Total, $635 66. Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $280 76—in 1833, $207 25.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Brownsville, (see South Landing.)

BARBOURSVILLE, P. V. and
Seat of Justice, 344 ms. N. W. of R.
and 393 S. W. by W. of W. in lat. 38°
24′, and long. 5° 12′ W. of W. C.
Barboursville is a handsome little village,
situated on the eastern bank of
Guyandotte river, 7½ ms. from the
mouth of Mud river. The State turnpike
which leads from the eastern
part of the state, by the great watering
places, to the Kentucky line, passes
through this village. A tri-weekly
line of stages passes through the town
to Guyandotte, where it meets a line
of stages from Lexington, Kentucky,
and a line of steam-boats from Cincinnati.
It contains besides the usual
county buildings, 25 dwelling houses,
3 mercantile stores, 1 common school,
1 extensive manufacturing flour mill,
1 tan yard, 1 hatter, 2 blacksmiths, 1
tailor and various other mechanics.
Population 150 persons, of whom 2
are attorneys, and 1 a regular physician.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month:—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Summers holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 26th of April, and September.

Greenbottom, P. O. 359 ms. from
R. and 376 from W.

Guyandotte, P. V. 352 ms. from
R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W., situated
immediately on the banks of the
Ohio and Guyandotte rivers. It contains
about 40 dwelling houses, 5 mercantile
stores, 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 1 primary
school, a steam, grist and saw
mill, and a carding machine propelled
by the same power, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler,
and 2 cabinet makers, with a
number of other mechanics. This
village is advantageously situated on
a point of land formed by the confluence
of Guyandotte, with the Ohio river.
It possesses commercial facilities
of a high order, but hitherto its
local advantages have from a want of
foresight or enterprise in its citizens,
not been duly appreciated. Guyandotte
is the western termination of the
daily line of stages from Washington
City and Richmond. It is much the
most important point of steam-boat
embarkation, as well as debarkation
in western Virginia, with the exception
of Wheeling, and there is no
good reason why it should not speedily
attain to what nature designed it
should be, a thriving and flourishing
village. Population about 300 persons,
of whom 1 is a regular physician.


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South Landing, or Brownsville,
P. V. 349 ms. from R. and 398 W. of
W. South landing was incorporated
by an act of the Virginia legislature,
some 3 or 4 sessions since, and 2 sessions
before last, its name was changed
to that of Brownsville. It is situated
immediately on the Ohio river, 3 ms.
below the mouth of Guyandotte, and
where the James river and Kanawha
turnpike first approaches the Ohio.
It is admirably adapted for a point of
landing, there being a sufficient depth
of water at all seasons for steam, and
other boats, to come up to the shore
and ride in safety. It is already attracting
notice in this point of view
and a considerable portion of the produce
of the surrounding country, has
found its way to the various markets
on the river below, through this point:
and it is more than probable from the
excellency of the landing—the beauty
of the situation, the fact that it is here
the great Virginia turnpike first approaches
the Ohio, and various other
considerations, that this is the point
where, before many years, the daily
line of stages from Fredericksburg
and other places will meet the steamboat
packets, and where the great
western Virginia landing will eventually,
be permanently fixed. This
town was laid off by the State Engiginer,
Mr. Crozet, three years since;
but the proprietors of the land for various
causes, have not as yet, put the
lots into market: there are, therefore,
but 5 or 6 dwelling houses and 2 mercantile
stores, yet established. But so
soon as the point shall be sufficiently
known, and the lots put into market,
it is expected improvement will rapidly
progress, and Brownsville, become
a place of no little note in western
Virginia.

FAYETTE.

Fayette was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a
portion of Logan, Greenbrier, Nicholas and Kanawha counties. It is
bounded by its parent counties, N. E., N. and N. W. by Kanawha and Nicholas,
E. by Greenbrier, S. E. by the same, S. and S. W. by Logan, and
W. by Logan and Kanawha. The limits of its latitude and longitude, or
its extent in miles, we have no means of ascertaining.

The mountains in this county are innumerable. The Gauly mountain
has acquired the greatest notoriety on account of its having been the line
dividing the county of Kanawha from Greenbrier,—it is a continuation of
the Cumberland mountain, which runs from south to north, and is cloven
asunder by New river, Big and Little Sewel mountains, dividing Fayette
from Greenbrier. There are many more of less note.

New river runs through the whole county from E. to W. It is exceedingly
rapid and precipitous. The junction of New river and Gauly, constitute
the noble great Kanawha, 2 ms. above the falls, and 11 above the
Kanawha county line. New river is navigable at no place between the
eastern line of the county, and the place where it looses its name by mingling
its waters with those of Gauly,—indeed there are but few places which
admit of ferries. The stream is borne down with so much force and
precipitancy, as to render its crossing very hazardous,—foaming and
pitching down a rough and rocky channel, with as much fury
as if precipitated down a succession of precipices. The falls being so rapidly
successive as to resemble artificial steps. Gauly river is the next in
order, it is the line between the counties of Fayette and Nicholas for several


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miles: after it comes within 6 miles of New river it ceases to be the
line and bends round to the S. W. and meets that noble and capacious
stream. It is navigable about 8 ms. above its mouth.

The Clear Fork and March Fork of Coal, also either take their rise in
this county, or acquire great accession as they pass through it. Their capacity
is too small to admit of being much navigated.

There is a great diversity of soil in this county, it being rich, midling
and sterile, and producing corn, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes of both kinds.
There are no manufactories of note. The mineral resources of the county
have not been at all developed. There are strong and innumerable indications
of iron ore,—much surface ore is found in many places, indicating
banks of ore, and chalybeate springs are interspersed all over the county.

Mounds apparently of great antiquity are found in some places; from one
of which, a human skeleton and many artificial curiosities, such as were
common among Indians, have been taken. "The Kanawha Turnpike
passes through this whole county from E. to W. and by travelling along it
within 8 or 10 ms. of the junction of New river and Gauly, you come in
sight of the former, you stand on a high cliff of rocks called Marshal's pillar,
or the Hawk's nest, and see the river dashing and pitching with maddening
fury, eight hundred or a thousand feet below you,—you approach
the edge of the rock to look over with great caution and timidity, and few
have been so bold and daring, as to approach the edge of the precipice so
near as to take a perpendicular view to the bottom,—you may stand on the
top of this cliff, and throw a stone into the river below. By drawing a superficial
line from the top of the precipice to the bottom of the river, thence
to the opposite cliff, and thence a horizontal line to the beginning, you
would have a triangle, the perpendicular of which would be about 850 ft."

The falls of Kanawha constitutes a curiosity to be specially remarked.
The whole stream perhaps a half a mile in width, is precipitated over a
craggy rock several perpendicular feet. The rock crosses the river
obliquely, and when the water is low it is divided into two prongs, one of
which washes the southern, and the other the northern shore, affording the
finest water power to propel machinery of any perhaps in Virginia; but
when the water is high, the rock is covered with one unbroken sheet, and
presents to the beholder a sight of great sublimity.

As this county has been created since the last census, there is no means
of ascertaining its population, which was then included in that of its parent
counties. It belongs to the 18th judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax
paid in 1833, $220 80—in 1834,—on land, $129 65—79 slaves, $19 75
—809 horses, $48 54—3 studs, $9 00—8 carryalls, $8 00—1 gig, $1 00.
Total, $215 94. No report of school commissioners for 1832. Expended
in educating poor children in 1833, $278 70.

County Courts are held on the 3rd Monday in every month:—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Duncan holds his Superior Court of Law and Chancery on
the 1st of April and September.

Fayette being a new county, and the county town not yet designated, we
therefore place the courts immediately under the head of the county.


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TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Coal River Marshes, P. O. 227
ms. from R. and 336 from W.

Gauley's Bridge, P. O. 278 ms.
N. W. of R. and 344 S. W. by W. of
W., situated at the falls of the Great
Kanawha river, 2 ms. below the junction
of Gauley and New river, and
35 above Charleston. The river is
here 500 yds. wide and has a fall of 22
ft. over a ledge of rocks, which extends
entirely across the stream, and
is received into a basin below, 60 ft.
in depth. This is the last navigable
point on the Kanawha, and presents
one of the best sites for machinery in
Virginia. There are here 2 saw
mills, 1 manufacturing flour mill, 2
mercantile stores, and 1 hotel. A
daily mail arrives. This is one of
the wildest and most picturesque regions
of the state. A very fine bridge
erected at the expense of the state, at
this spot, was consumed a few years
since by fire, applied by an incendiary.

Mountain Cove, P. O. 273 ms.
from R. and 315 from W.

Sewell's, P. O. 246 ms. from R.
and 288 from W.

FLOYD.

Floyd was created by the Legislature in January 1831, and formed
from a portion of Montgomery county. It is bounded N. by Montgomery,
—E. by Franklin—S. by Patrick,—and W. by Grayson. It is 35 miles in
length from E. to W., and its mean width is 15.

Floyd is mountainous, but there is only one of the many knobs and
spurs which cover its surface, which deserves to be noticed; and this is but
little less worthy of observation than the celebrated Peaks of Otter of Bedford.
This is called from its resemblance to the animal, the Buffalo Knob.
It is not itself so high as the Peaks of Otter, but its base is more elevated
than theirs, and the prospect from the top is truly sublime. On the north,
east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless succession of
mountains rising beyond mountains,—whilst far away to the south, the
plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east the knob is
accessible on horse-back, being two miles in height from the beginning of
the ascent to the highest point, on the west it breaks off precipitately, and
presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears.

This country is watered by Little river, a branch of New river. Little
river is composed of three branches, called South, Middle, and West Forks,
upon which are situated the most fertile and extensive meadows in the
county. Laurel Fork, a branch of Big Reedy Island creek, waters the
southwestern portion of the county. It washes the base of the Buffalo
Knob.—This county lying upon the Alleghany, where it approaches the
Blue Ridge, is not very fertile. It is much better adapted to grazing, than
to grain. Indian corn does not thrive well, but wheat, rye, oats, and buckwheat,
are raised in the greatest abundance. Horses, oxen, hogs and sheep
are raised for market in great quantities, and are the only staples. Population
between 7 and 8000, and rapidly increasing. It belongs to the 16th
judicial circuit and 8th district. Taxes paid in 1833, $294 46—in 1834,
on lots, $11 54—on land, $171 56—151 slaves, $37 75—1191 horses,


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$71 46—6 studs, $27 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls, $5 00. Total,
$316 31. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $105 52—in
1833, $544 50.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

JACKSONVILLE, P. V. and
seat of justice, 227 ms. from R. and
305 from W. This village is located
in the most fertile and healthy part of
the county. The lots were laid off some
12 months since, and a considerable
number of them sold. It of course
does not contain many improvements
as yet. There is however a handsome
court house erected, 5 dwelling
houses, and a number of others are
now building, 2 mercantile stores, 1
house of public entertainment, 1 tan
yard, 1 saddler, 1 blacksmith shop,
and post office. Jacksonville is situated
100 ms. W. of Lynchburg, its
chief market or place of trade, 35
W. of Franklin C. H., 20 S. of
Montgomery C. H., 55 E. of Grayson
C. H., and 35 N. of Patrick C.
H. Such is the healthiness, that there
is only 1 physician in the county.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Saunders holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 17th of April and September.

Simpson's P. O. situated 21 ms. N.
E. of the C. H. 211 ms. from R. and
289 from W.

Stoney Fork, P. O. 229 ms. from
R. and 307 from W., situated 2 ms.
W. of the C. H. It contains a mercantile
store, tavern, and blacksmith
shop.

FREDERICK.

Frederick was created by act of Assembly in 1738, and formed from a
portion of Orange. It is bounded N. by Morgan, Berkeley, and
Jefferson,—E. by Loudoun and Fauquier,—S. by Shenandoah,—and W.
by Hardy and Hampshire. Its mean length is 29 miles, mean breadth
25⅔; and its area 745 square miles. It lies between lat. 38° 50′ and 39°
25′ N. and long 0° 48′ and 1° 28′ W. of W. C. The surface of this
county is very much diversified by hill and mountain scenery, and by diversity
of soil. It occupies S. from the Potomac part of the continuation
of the great valley, in which are situated Lebanon, the lower part of Dauphin,
the greatest part of Cumberland and Franklin counties, Pennsylvania,
and Jefferson and Berkley counties, Virginia. The Shenandoah
river traverses the southeastern border meandering along the northwestern
base of the Blue Ridge. Opequan, Back and Sleepy creeks, flowing N.
N. E. into the Potomac, also rise in Frederick. The slope of the county
is of course northeastward, in a similar direction with the streams. The
ground near Harper's Ferry and along the Potomac is about 200 feet
above tide water, and allowing a similar rise from the Potomac, the mean
height of Frederick would be about 400 feet. The soil of this county is
highly productive, though the face of the county is considerably broken by
mountain ridges. It is one of the wealthiest, most hospitable, and most intelligent
counties in the State. Population in 1810, 22,574—1820, 24,706
—1830, 26,046. It belongs to the thirteenth judicial circuit, and seventh


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district. Tax paid in 1833, $8,987 19—in 1834 on lots, $1,113 71—1
land, $5,514 65—3,842 slaves, $960 50—8,506 horses, $510 36—38
studs, $453 00—158 coaches, $427 80—2 stages, $4 00—47 carryalls,
$63 90—31 gigs, $71 75. Total, $9,119 67. Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $1186 85—in 1833, $1988 47.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Back Creek Valley, P. O. 164
ms. from R. and 85 W. of W.

Battletown, or Berryville,
P. O. 160 ms. from R. and 59 N. W.
of W. This is a healthy and flourishing
little village, situated on Opequan
creek, on the direct post road
from. Winchester to Washington
City, 12 miles from the former. It
contains about 30 dwelling houses, 1
handsome Episcopal house of public
worship, lately erected, 1 academy,
and 3 female schools, 2 mercantile
stores, several mechanic shops, &c.
But the business principally transacted
in this place is of a commercial
nature. General Morgan of Revolutionary
memory, resided for a
considerable part of his life in the
immediate vicinity of this village.
It was the scene of many of those
personal and party combats for which
he was so remarkable. This circumstance
is said to have given rise
to the name of Battletown—by which
it is now generally known. Its proper
name is Berryville. Population
about 300 persons; of whom 2 are
attorneys, and 5 regular physicians.

Brucetown, P. O. 157 ms. from
R. and 79 from W., situated 7 ms.
W. of Winchester. It contains about
25 houses, 1 Methodist house of public,
2 mercantile stores, 1 tavern, 2
manufacturing flour mills, 1 tailor, 1
wagon maker, 1 smith shop, and 1
boot and shoe factory. Population
75.

Front Royal, P. V. 139 ms.
from R. and 75 W. of W. It is situated
in the extreme southeastern
angle of the county, 20 ms. S. E. of
Winchester, on the S. side of the
Shenandoah river, a mile from its
banks, in a valley between the river
and Blue Ridge, near the junction of
the counties of Culpeper, Fauquier,
and Shenandoah. The situation of
this village is eligible and pleasant.
It contains 37 dwelling houses, 2
houses of public worship, (1 Methodist,
a neat brick building, and 1 free
for all denomination,) 2 academies,
in one of which is taught the Languages,
2 houses of public entertainment,
4 mercantile stores, and 1
apothecary shop. There is one extensive
manufacturing flour mill, 3
wagon makers, which have acquired
some celebrity, 3 tan yards, 2 saddlers,
3 boot and shoe factories, 3
smith shops, 2 tailors, 1 chair maker,
1 cabinet maker, 2 house joiners, 1
brick maker, and 1 wheat fan manufactory.
Population 350 persons, of
whom 1 is an attorney, and 3 are
regular physicians. There is a small
and beautiful stream passing through
the E. end of this village, on the
main street, called Happy creek,
which is visited by fish when the
Shenandoah is high; and a beautiful
range of mountain scenery presents
itself in view of the town. In
the vicinity are three manufacturing
flour mills, turned by the noble Shenandoah
river. About 3¼ of a mile
from the W. end of this place, but in
Shenandoah county, is situated Allen's
Cave,
said by some to surpass
Weyer's cave for the extent and sublimity
of its caverns. (See Allen's
cave, Shenandoah Co.). This cave is
much frequented by parties in the
summer season. The surrounding
country, viewing it from this village,
is grand and picturesque. There are
many handsome residences and delightful


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seats situated on eminences
in the neighborhood. Among them
is the agreeable mansion of the hospitable
and venerable James Marshall,
(a brother of the Chief Justice,)
whose residence is situated on
Happy creek, after which it is very
properly named, as those who have
been its guests will be willing to testify.

Gainsboro', P. O. 159 ms. from
R. and 80 W. of W., situated on the
road leading to Cumberland, 9 ms.
N. W. of Winchester, 1 mile W. of
Hog creek, and ¼ E. of Back creek.
It contains 30 dwelling houses, 2
houses of public worship, (1 Methodist
and 1 Quaker,) 1 common school,
and 1 house of public entertainment.
There are 2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 1
boot and shoe maker, 3 smith shops,
1 cabinet maker, 1 house carpenter,
1 tailor, and 1 cooper. Population
100 persons, of whom 1 is a physician.
In the vicinity is located a
woollen manufactory, and 2 manufacturing
flour mills.

Howellsville, P. V. 147 ms.
from R. and 94 N. W. by W. of
W., situated immediately on the
banks of the Shenandoah, where
Howells' run empties into that river,
about 7 ms. distant both from Front
Royall and Berry's Ferry. This
little village is rapidly improving. It
contains 6 or 8 dwelling houses, 1
house of public worship, free for all
denominations, 1 miscellaneous store,
2 manufacturing flour mills, 1 wagon
maker, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1
smith shop, 1 fancy weaver, 1 house
carpenter, &c. The bottom lands in
this neighborhood are exceedingly
rich, and produce in abundance Indian
corn, wheat, rye, oats, &c;. The
mountain lands are productive and
well timbered. The Shenandoah is
navigable 150 ms. above this place,
and boats descend the river from this
point at all seasons with 50 barrels of
flour, and when the waters are high
with 150. Population 30.

Manassas' Gap, P. O. 134 ms.
W. of W. C.

Middletown, P. V. 158 ms. from
R. and 84 N. W. of W., situated on
Cedar creek, near the southwestern
border of the county, 13 ms. S. W. of
Winchester. It is a thriving and
healthy village, containing about 55
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist and 1
Episcopalian house of worship, 4
mercantile stores, 2 common schools,
2 hotels, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 extensive
wheat machine manufactory,
which sells annually 10 or 12 machines
at $400 each. The other
mechanics are wagon makers, blacksmiths,
boot and shoe makers, 2 silversmiths
and watch makers, 3 tailors,
1 cabinet maker, and 1 chair
and bedstead maker. There is a
flourishing academy situated two and
a half miles distant from this village,
which is under the superintendence
of the Rev. John Lodor. There are
two manufacturing flour mills in the
vicinity. Population about 300 persons,
1 of whom is a physician.

Millwood, P. V. 139 ms. from
R. and 66 N. W. by W. of W., situated
11 ms. S. E. by E. of Winchester.
It contains 21 dwelling houses,
3 mercantile stores, 1 Episcopalian
house of public worship, a neat building
lately erected, 1 extensive tannery,
1 boot and shoe factory, 2 tailors,
1 wagon maker, 1 blacksmith
shop and 2 manufacturing flour mills,
each grinding from 15 to 20,000
bushels of wheat annually. The
country around is rich and thickly
settled,—the land of superior quality,
producing well all the ordinary staples.
Population 112 persons; of
whom 1 is a physician.

Newtown or Stephensburg, P.
V. 158 ms. from R. and 79 N. W.
by W. of W. This village is situated
8 ms. S. of Winchester. It contains
88 dwelling houses, an excellent
market house, and 2 houses of public
worship, 1 belonging the Methodist
denomination, and the other held


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jointly by the Lutherans and German
Reformed churches, 3 schools, 1 well
organized sunday school, 2 mercantile
stores, 3 tan yards, and 3 saddlers.
The principal occupations of the village
are wagon and wheat machine
making.—Great numbers of wagons
are made,—no less than 9 different
establishments being engaged in this
business, which make and send wagons
to almost every part of the
State, which for neatness, strength,
and durability, are said not to be surpassed
in the United States. Population
700 persons; of whom 4 are
regular physicians.

Ninevah, P. O. 145 ms. from R.
and 81 N. W. by W. of W. This
place is situated in the northern part
of the county, and contains 5 dwelling
houses, 1 wagon maker, 1 boot
and shoe maker, 1 blacksmith shop,
and 1 wheat machine manufactory.
Population 30. This post office has
recently been transferred to a country
store, 2 miles distant, at which is located
a tailor, boot and shoe maker,
and a blacksmith shop. The country
around is of limestone formation, and
is very fertile and thickly settled with
industrious and wealthy farmers.

Pembroke Springs, P. O. 168
ms. from R. and 89 W. of W., situated
18 ms. W. of Winchester.

Snicker's Ferry, P. O. 156 ms.
from R. and 55 from W.

White Post, P. O. 144 ms. from
R. and 71 N. W. of W. This is a
flourishing little village, situated 12
ms. S. E. of Winchester, in a beautiful
and highly picturesque country,
remarkable for the fertility of its soil
and neatness of agriculture. It contains
30 dwelling houses, 1 house of
public worship, free for all denominations,
and which is occupied also
as an academy, 2 mercantile stores, 1
tavern, 1 saddler, 2 tailors, a smith,
and various other mechanics. A
temperance society was organized
here, about 2 years since, called the
White Post, and is now in a prosperous
condition, having about 100
members. Population 150 persons;
of whom 3 are regular physicians.

White Hall, P. V. 158 ms. from
R. and 79 N. W. of W. This village
is situated near the northern line
of the county, on Apple Pie Ridge.
This ridge is an elevated and extensive
ridge of fertile land, which passes
under different names, through
the counties of Berkeley and Frederick,
in a direction nearly north and
south. It contains 15 dwelling
houses, 1 Methodist house of worship,
1 school house, 1 sunday school
and tract society, 2 miscellaneous
stores, 2 wagon makers, 1 saddler, 1
tailor, 1 blacksmith, 1 cooper, and 1
boot and shoe factory. In the vicinity,
on Green Spring Run, a number
of excellent and extensive flour-manufacturing,
grist and saw mills
are located. The Run is a beautiful
and never failing stream, which takes
its rise within 1 mile of the village,
issuing out of the western side of
Apple Pie Ridge, it runs in a northwestern
direction, and falls into Bath
creek. The situation of this place
is pleasant and healthy. The surrounding
country is limestone land of
good quality, and in a high state of
cultivation. The roads from Winchester
to Gerardstown pass through
this village, distant 8 miles S. of the
former, and 6 N. of the latter. The
road from Charlestown, Jefferson,
also passes through to the Bloomery
gap, or Sherrard's Store, distant 15
ms. from the former. Population
70. No physician or attorney reside
in this place.

WINCHESTER, P. T. and County
Seat.
—Of the large and wealthy
county of Frederick, and one of the
most considerable towns in western
Virginia, is situated in N. lat 39° 11′,
W. long. 77° 28′;[35] distance from


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Washington, 71 ms.; Richmond, 150;
Harper's Ferry, 30. This place is
situated in the fertile valley of Virginia,
in the midst of a rich and abundant
country, and a thriving and industrious
people. It is one of the
oldest towns in western Virginia.
Being somewhat celebrated in the history
of our Indian warfare and revolutionary
struggle, a brief review of
its early history will, it is believed,
be interesting, as it is closely connected
with the early actions of that eminent
individual, who afterwards became
endeared to his countrymen by
the glorious deeds which gained him
the noble title of Father of his country.
Tradition informs us that the
ground on the edge of the present site
of Winchester was occupied by a large
and powerful tribe of Indians, called
the Shawnees or Shawanees, and
some springs at that point, are called
the Shawnee Springs at this day. The
earliest accounts of the settlement of
Winchester, state that there were 2
houses on its present location as early
as 1738, situated near the town run,
but its establishment as a town commenced
in Feb. 1752, in the 25th
year of the reign of George the II
when the General Assembly passed an
"act for the establishment of the town
of Winchester."[36] In 1758 it was enlarged
in consideration of an additional
quantity of land being laid off in
lots by Col. James Wood, now called
in the plot of the town, Wood's addition.
Trustees were then appointed
consisting of Lord Fairfax, Col. Martin
and others: Vide Henning's Statutes
at Large: vol. 7. p. 135. Additions
to the town, were also made by
Lord Fairfax.[37] Col. Wood is therefore
entitled to the honor of being the
founder. Winchester is mentioned by
General Washington, as being one of
the points in his route, in his celebrated
mission, by order of Governor
Dinwiddie, to the French authorities
on the Ohio. He came from Alexandria
to Winchester where he procured
baggage horses, &c. This was
in November 1753.[38]

In the French and Indian warfare
that succeeded, Washington fixed his
head quarters at Winchester, which
was then a frontier settlement. The
North mountain a few miles west of
Winchester being the boundary.—
From the fear occasioned by the attacks
of the French and Indians, this
place was almost the only settlement
west of the Blue Ridge, which range
of mountains, was as late as 1756, the
north western frontier. At that period
public stores to a large amount
were deposited at Winchester, for the
frontier settlement. After the distinguished
action at Great Meadows, July
4, 1754, Washington returned with
his regiment to Winchester to recruit,
soon after which, he was joined by
a few companies from Maryland and
North Carolina, after which reinforcement
they were ordered by the
Liuetenant Governor, to march immediately
over the Alleghany, to drive
the French from Fort du Quesne, or
build one in its vicinity. After the


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disastrous defeat of Braddock, Washington
with the remains of the brave
Virginia troops retreated to Winchester.
Upon the invasion of the frontiers
by the French and Indians,
Washington then on his way to Williamsburg,
the Seat of Government,
was overtaken by an express, below
Fredericksburg, with the intelligence
that the French and Indians had broken
in upon the frontier settlements,
and were murdering and capturing
women and children, burning houses,
destroying crops, &c. and that the
troops, stationed among them were
insufficient for their protection. He
immediately hastened back to Winchester,
where the utmost confusion
and alarm prevailed. His attempts to
raise the militia were unsuccessful.
He sent urgent orders to the country
Lieutenants, east of the Blue Ridge,
to hasten their militia to Winchester,
but before these orders could be executed,
the enemy which had done so
much injury and caused so much
alarm, had re-crossed the Alleghany
mountain. Col. Washington after repeated
ineffectual efforts to arouse the
government to act on the offensive, and
adopt a more efficient system of warfare,
by sending a force sufficient to
destroy Fort du Quesne, at length
prevailed, and Gen. Forbes was ordered
to undertake the campaign for
its reduction. On the 24th of May,
1758, orders were issued to Washington's
regiment to rendezvous at
Winchester, and be in readiness to
march in 15 days. June 24, the Virginia
troops in pursuance to the orders
they had received, moved in detachments
from Winchester to Fort
Cumberland, where they assembled
early in July. Upon the reduction of
Fort du Quesne, (when its name was
changed to Pitt, in honor of the then
British Minister,) Col. Washington
after furnishing 200 men from his
regiment to garrison the Fort, marched
the rest back to Winchester, whence
he soon proceeded to Williamsburg to
take his seat in the house of Delegates,
of which he had been elected a
member by the County of Frederick,
while at Fort Cumberland. During
these contests a Fort was built at Winchester,
the remains of which are still
visible at the north end of the principle
street. In Henning's Statutes,
vol 7. page 33, we find the 16th
clause of a law passed March, 1756,
which refers to this Fort, and the appropriation
for its erection in these
words, "and whereas it is now judged
necessary, that a Fort should be immediately
erected in the town of Winchester,
county of Frederick, for the
protection of the adjacent inhabitants
against the barbarities daily committed
by the French and their Indian
allies be it therefore enacted that the
Governor or Commander-in-chief of
the colony for the time being is here
by empowered and desired to order a
Fort to be built with all possible despatch,
in the aforesaid town of Winchester;
and that his honor give such
orders and instructions for the immediate
effecting, and garrisoning the
same as he shall think necessary for
the purpose aforesaid." The act also
appropriates the sum of £1000 for
carrying the above provision into effect.
This Fort was called Fort
Loudoun, in honor of the British
General, Lord Loudoun, who had
been appointed to the command of the
British troops in America. It is stated
in the History of the Valley upon
authority, entitled to the highest respect,
the gentleman furnishing the
information referred to, having been
informed by Washington's officers,
that Washington marked out the site
of this Fort and superintended its
erection, that he bought a lot in Winchester,
had a blacksmith shop erected
on it, and brought from Mount Vernon
his own blacksmith to make the
necessary iron work for the Fort.
The very spot is pointed out, where
Washington's own residence was situated.
It is stated that his chamber

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was above the gateway of the Fort in
a situation commanding a view of the
principal street of the town. This
Fort covered an area of half an acre,
and there is still much of its enbankments
and mounds remaining. There
is also a well, from which water now
rises to the surface, sunk through the
solid rock 103 ft. The labor of
throwing up this Fort, and sinking
this well, was said to have been performed
by Washington's regiment.
The Fort contained a strong Garrison;
and it is stated by one of the oldest
inhabitants of Winchester, to have
mounted six 18 pounders, six 12 pounders,
six 6 pounders, 4 swivels and 2
howittzers, and to this day grape shot
and cannon balls are found there.
These cannons were removed from
Winchester, early in the war of the
revolution. This Fort was said to
have been once reconnoitered by a
French officer, but never was attacked
by the enemy. Winchester was used
for its security as a depot for Hessian
and British prisoners, taken during
the revolution. The number increased
so much, that barracks were erect
ed 4 ms. N. of the town, for their accommodation
at one time in the year
1781, the number of prisoners was
1600.

Having given this sketch of the
early history of Winchester, which in
a work like this is justifiable, as it is
interesting to all Virginians, and all
other citizens of the United States, to
recall the associations and localities of
those "times that tried men's souls,"
and more especially of this place from
its intimate connection with the first
actions and trials of the Father of our
country; we will now proceed to
give some account of the statistics of
Winchester.

The principal part of the town, is
built on low ground, from which the
streets ascend. It is very compactly
built, and the streets are laid out regularly,
crossing each other at right
angles. The principal street is well
paved, and the sidewalks in all the
streets are more or less improved.
The houses are generally built of
brick or stone. The number of
houses is about 500, and the supposed
population near 4000. The census
of 1830, made the population 3620 of
the following description of persons:

             
Free white males,  1429 
Free white females  1275 
Slave males,  290 
Slave females,  365 
Free colored males,  100 
Free colored females,  164 
Total,  3520 

The active population of Winchester,
may be arrayed under the 3 general
divisions of professional, mercantile
and mechanical classes:—

1st Professional.—There are 6
clergymen, 1 Methodist Episcopal, 1
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2 Evangelical
Lutheran, 1 Methodist Protestant.
The legal profession is quite
numerous, and the Winchester Bar
has always held one of the highest
stations in Virginia. It has given a
presiding Judge to the Supreme Court
of Appeals; and several Judges to the
bench of the General Court. There
has been a flourishing Law School
which only ceased with the elevation
of the Lecturer to the Court of Appeals.
The present number of resident lawyers
of the Winchester Bar is 22. besides
these, a number of lawyers attend
the terms of the courts in Winchester.

Physicians.—The number of the
medical profession is 7. The promising
Medical School established
here some years since by the Medical
Society of the Valley, has been discontinued,—two
of its professors have
been called to distinguished stations
in other institutions,—one professor
of Theory and Practice of Medicine,
in Transylvania University, Kentucky,
and the other, to the Chair of
Medicine in the University of Va.

The mercantile class of the community


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in Winchester, consists for the
most part of business men, who are
careful and prudent in all their dealings.
Many of them have in consequence
become wealthy. There are
41 stores in Winchester of the following
description:—32 dry goods and
grocery stores, 1 apothecary and
druggist, 1 auction and commission
store, 3 iron stores, 2 stove and casting
manufactories, 1 confectionary
and fruit store, 1 book and stationary,
and 1 lottery office.

The mechanics are as follows, to
wit:—2 brewers, 4 bakers, 1 bookbinder,
12 victuallers, 1 brass founder,
13 carpenters, 3 chair makers, 1 clock
and mathematical instrument maker, 3
extensive coach manufactories, giving
employment to a great number of hands,
1 gunsmith, 4 house painters and glaziers,
6 masons and bricklayers, 1 or
namental painter, 1 pottery, 1 rope
and reed maker, 9 boot and shoe factories,
5 silver smiths, watch repairers
and jewellers, 4 tanners and curriers,
3 barbers, 1 buhr stone maker, 17
blacksmiths, 4 brickmakers, 2 carpet
weavers, 4 cabinet makers, 2 copper
smiths, 2 coopers, 2 confectionaries, 1
dyer, 2 hatters, 2 lock and white
smith's, 8 milliners, 6 plasterers, 2
ploughmakers, 5 saddle and harness
makers, 2 skindressers and glovers, 1
silver plater, 1 saddle tree maker, 3
tobacconists, 2 turners, 1 tallow chandler,
5 tinplate workers, 9 tailors, (4
merchant tailors,) 1 upholsterer, 10
waggon makers, 3 weavers, 1 wheelwright.
This list embraces 46 different
trades, and upwards of 170 master
workmen. It is presumed that there
are several hundred journeymen and
apprentices employed by these persons.
There are 6 merchant mills in
the immediate vicinity of Winchester,
1 cabinet ware factory, part of the machinery
turned by water, 1 carpet factory
which makes carpeting of a superior
quality, much admired for the
beauty of its texture, and the brilliancy
and permanency of its colors.
There is 1 cotton factory, but at present
its operations are suspended. The
abundant water power and its admirable
location, justifies the prediction
that Winchester will one day become
a great manufacturing town. There
is 1 academy for youth founded by an
act of the Legislature, as far back as
1788, now 46 years since. It has
been in operation the greater part of
that period, and has had as many as
80 pupils in one year. It is estimated,
that at least 1000 young men from
different and distant parts of the state,
have been educated in part or entirely
at this institution. This academy has
maintained, perhaps as high a reputation
as any other similar institution
in the state. There are, besides the
academy, an institute for young ladies,
and 11 other schools. There
are few places in the state, which present
greater inducements to parents,
desiring to have their children well
educated than Winchester. It is remarkable
for its health, the purity of
the water; and what is more important
for the correct, moral and religious
tone of feeling, which prevails
among most of its inhabitants. It is
also a remarkable fact which should
be stated, that although there is no
night watch, a robbery is almost unknown,
and a general state of good order
prevails. The public buildings
are a C. H., clerk's office, jail, market
house and Common Council Hall,
Masonic Hall, and Library and Lyceum
building. There are several
excellent hotels; one of which, lately
erected, is surpassed probably by none
in the state, in the accommodations
for travellers. There are 9 churches
in Winchester, 2 Presbyterian, 1
Episcopalian, 2 Methodist's, (1 for colored
persons,) 1 Roman Catholic, 1
Lutheran, 1 Baptist, 1 Friend's or
Quaker's. The Episcopal church
erected in 1829, is one of the best specimens
of Gothic artichecture in the
state. It is much admired by strangers
for the beauty and appropriateness


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of the style of architecture. It is
finished with great taste in the interior,
and has a fine toned organ.
There is no asylum in Winchester,
but there are a great many associations
for benevolent, religious or literary
purposes; such as the Bible Society,
Tract Society, with a flourishing
Depository, Sunday School Union,
with a good and increasing depository,
for the supply of 7 counties around
Winchester; ladies' Benevolent Society,
for relieving and attending to the
wants of the poor and destitute sick,
ladies Colonization Society, a general
Temperance Society, Young Men's
Temperance and Colonization Societies,
a Mechanic's Society, a prosperous
Masonic Lodge and Chapter, 2
large fire companies, provided with
engines, hose and necessary apparatus.
There is a Library and Lyceum of
reading, to which is attached a good
collection of minerais. The Library
is yet small, which is partly to be attributed
to the number of private Libraries
owned in the town. There
are 2 printing offices in Winchester,
one issues the Winchester Virginian,
the other, the Winchester Republican.
There is also a monthly periodical
published at the Republican office, for
the publication of sermons. generally
of living ministers of the Lutheran
church, of all parts of the United
States. It is extensively circulated,
and well patronized by the members
of this church. There are 2 Banks
in Winchester, the Farmers' Branch
Bank, and the Bank of the Valley,
with branches at Romney, Leesburg
and Charlestown. The Winchester
and Frederick County Savings Institution,
incoporated last session of the
Legislature, has lately gone into operation
with encouraging prospects.
Winchester possesses one great and
inestimable advantage as a place of
residence, which would leave this article
imperfect not to notice in detail.
We mean the never failing supply of
pure, wholesome spring water. There
is no place in the Union better supplied
with water, or of better quality.
Philadelphia boasts of its water works,
but the water there is river water,
whilst that supplied to the citizens of
Winchester is spring water, cold
enough to be used without ice during
the summer. The water was introduced
into the town 28 or 30 years
ago by wooden pipes, through which
it was conducted from a fine, never
failing spring, about half a mile west
of the town,—the right to the use of
which, was reserved to the citizens
of Winchester by Lord Fairfax, by
express provision. The wooden pipes
were taken up in 1828, and iron pipes
put down in their places. The main
pipe has a bore of about 6 inches: the
lateral pipes about 3 inches. The
length of the iron pipes is about 3
ms. The whole cost to the corporation
did not exceed $12,500. The
water is now conveyed in these pipes
through all the principal streets, and
by lead pipes leading from the iron,
into the yards of a majority of the
citizens, without their paying any
water tax for the privilege. The water
is carried to the extreme parts of
the town, affording a constant and
abundant supply for all the purposes
of domestic use, and to extinguish fire
if necessary; for which purpose, fire
plugs are provided at convenient distances.

This article will now be concluded,
with a brief notice of the internal improvements
in contemplation, and in
progress connected with Winchester.
These are the Valley turnpike, (for
which the Legislature passed an act
the last session) to extend from Winchester
to Harrisonburg. This road
has not yet been commenced, but
when made will greatly increase the
travelling through this Valley, which
presents great inducements to travellers,
from the beauty of its scenery, and
its mineral springs. Perhaps no part
of the world affords a greater variety
of mineral springs, of qualities in-


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estimable in the restoration of health,
than the Valley of Virginia. The
state road from Winchester to Parkersburg,
on the Ohio, is now being
made: it will be completed, it is
thought, within 2 years,—its length
is 235 ms. This will be a very important
road in connecting the Atlantic
with the western states; but the
great outlet for all these roads, and
for the rich Valley of Virginia, will
be the Winchester and Potomac Rail
Road, commenced in 1833: this road
it is thought, will be completed in
1836,—its length is about 31 ms connecting
at Harper's Ferry, with those
two grand national works, the Baltimore
and Ohio Rail Road, and the
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal. The
effect of these improvements in raising
the value of property in Winchester,
from bringing it in such close
proximity with the eastern cities, and
the natural increase of business and
population, must have an influence on
the prosperity of this place—the extent
of which no one can foresee. If
the same results attend these improvements
which have been produced in
other places, which are destitute of
the same natural advantages, the prosperity
of Winchester must be increased
to an extent, unparalleled in all its
previous history.

County and Corporation Courts
are held on the Monday before the
1st Tuesday in every month. Quarterly
in March, June, August and
November.

Judge Parker, holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 1st of May and November.

 
[35]

Agreeable to late observations of Capt.
Graham, U. S. Topographical Engineer,
and Mr. Bruce, principal of the Winchester
Academy.

[36]

When the town of Winchester was first
laid off by Lord Fairfax, he made the town
lots of half an acre each, and by his conveyances
annexed an out-lot of five acres
adjoining the town, to each town or in-lot;
and by the condition of each grant, made
the in and the out-lots inseparable, it being
the design of this benevolent proprietor,
that each house holder in town, owner of a
lot, should always have appurtenant a convenient
parcel of land for small cultivation
or pasturage.

The intent of these grants has been, however,
long since evaded, by conveying one
lot in fee, and the other by lease for 1000
years, renewable forever at a nominal
rent.

[37]

Lord Fairfax was the proprietor of the
Northern Neck of Virginia, he lived and
died at Greenway Court, about 12 ms. from
Winchester, and was buried at the old
Episcopal church of that place. (See extent
of his domain under Culpeper.

[38]

See his Journal of the expedition, very
properly preserved in Marshall's life of
Washington—new edition. vol. 1. p. 461.

GILES.

Giles was created by the Legislature in 1806, and formed from a portion
of Tazewell and Monroe counties. It is bounded N. by Monroe,—N.
E. by Botetourt,—E. and S. E. by Montgomery,—S. by Wythe,—S. W. by
Tazewell,—and W. by the great flat top mountain, which separates it from Logan.
The form of this county approaches to a half moon, and the length between
the points about 70 miles. It lies between lat 37° 06′ and 37° 43′
N. and long. 3° 15′ and 4° 15′ W. of W. C. This county is very mountainous,
the mean level of the cultivated land being 1600 feet above the
ocean.

Several ridges of mountains pass through this county, the principal of
which are Peter's and East River mountains. These are parts of the
same ridge, which appear to have been split asunder by the waters of
New river, which passes through them at the Big Fall. Near Parisburg,
proudly preeminent stands The Angel's Rest, a pinnacle that overtops all
the mountains of the neighborhood, and affords one of the most interesting
prospects in the western country. The Salt Pond mountain also deserves
particular notice. This mountain derives its name from the circumstance,
that the old settlers of the country usually gathered their stock, that ran in
the range at this place, for the purpose of giving them salt. It is situated
about 12 miles to the east of Parisburg; near the top of it, there is an immense
lake of water of an unknown depth and 3 or 4 miles in circumference.
It is said by the old settlers of the country that this pond has arisen
from a spring which flowed into a kind of natural basin situated between
two lofty mountains, and has gradually increased overtoping tree after tree,
which grew on the sides of the mountain, until it at last found an outlet


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over the ridge that unites the two mountains. This pond now forms a
beautiful expanse of water near the summit of one of the loftiest mountains
in Virginia, which frequently excites the curiosity of strangers, and
to which the gentry of the county often resort for the object of pleasure
and amusement.

In the upland and mountainous parts of the county the soil is barren and
rocky, but in the valleys between the mountains and on the low grounds
of the creeks and rivers, the land is very fertile and produces freely every
kind of grain. Hemp is the principal staple, a considerable quantity of
which is annually wagoned to Buchanan, at the head of boat navigation
on James river. In a direction from S. E. to N. W. New river runs
through this county, and fertilizes a large portion of its soil. The bottoms
on each side of this stream are remarkably rich and constitute the most
valuable part of the county, affording many handsome country seats, which
in some instances are improved with substantial houses. This river is also
remarkable for its fine fish, particularly the mud and blue cat, which are
very much celebrated among travellers for their fine flavor and astonishing
size, some weighing from 60 to 70 pounds. Other streams of less note
penetrate through this county, the advantages derived from which are very
considerable in a country like this, where the most choice spots are those
which lie on the margin of water courses, and have been enriched by their
fertilizing influence.

The White Sulphur Springs of Giles county are supposed to be inferior
in quality to none in the State, while they combine with the excellence of their
waters many advantages of natural scenery, which if they were well improved
would give them a superiority over most of the watering places in
the neighboring counties, and would be a source of increasing wealth to
the county of Giles. These springs are situated on the banks of New
river, 9 miles E. of Parisburg, on what is supposed to be the nearest route
from that place to Christiansburg in the county of Montgomery. Here
the mind at one moment may be engaged with the most pleasing emotions,
derived from the river scenery, and at the next it will be struck with the
sight of the most awful and majestic cliffs, which at this place overhang
the bed of the river, in all the pomp of lonely grandeur. In a few years
if these springs should be properly managed, and sufficient accommodations
provided, they will afford one of the most delightful summer retreats in the
western part of the State,—possessing every advantage that the invalid can
reasonable hope for, and presenting many attractive inducements for the
votaries of pleasure and gaity.

The most numerous religious sect of the county is that of the Methodists;
but they have as yet erected no house of worship deserving notice.

Population in 1820, 4,522—the county then including a large tract now
included in Logan county—in 1830, 5,270. This county belongs to the
16th judicial circuit, and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $564 21—in
1834, on lots, $21 20—on land, $266 15—298 slaves, $74 50—2348
horses, $140 88—9 studs, $47 00—3 carryalls, $3 00—1 gig, 50 cts.
Total, $553 23. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $281 66
—in 1834, $290 56.


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TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Big Spring, P. O. 264 ms. S. W.
of R. and 324 S. W. by W. of W.
situated in the western part of the
county, on the main post road leading
from Parisburg to Tazewell C.
H.—27 ms. from the former. It
contains several dwelling houses, a
grist mill, a wool carding machine,
and a blacksmith shop. It is located
within 100 yards of the line which
divides the counties of Tazewell and
Giles. Population 9 whites and 7
blacks.

Chapman's Mills, P. O. 255 ms.
S. W. of R.

PARISBURG, P. V. and county
seat.
297 ms. S. W. by W. of W. C.
and 240 S. W. from R., lat 37° 21′
long. 3° 43′ W. of W. C. This
village is situated on the S. W. side
of New river, three-fourths of a mile
from its bank, where that stream
passes through Peters' mountain, immediately
above the gap, and directly
on the main post road, 18 ms. from
the Red Sulphur Springs. It was
established by act of Assembly, and
laid off in June 1806; but owing to
its then being in one of the extreme
frontier counties, the improvements
have progressed but slowly. It contains,
besides the ordinary county
buildings (which are handsome) about
30 dwelling houses, (mostly built of
stone) and a number of others in
progress of erection, 4 mercantile
stores, 2 taverns, 2 common schools,
2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 2 hatters, 2
cabinet makers, 1 chair maker and
painter, 1 boot and shoe factory, 1
wheelwright, 1 tailor, and 1 brick
and stone mason. Nine miles distant
from this village, are situated the
Hygæn Springs, a white sulphur—
the water of which is supposed to
contain medical properties inferior to
none in Virginia. The scenery at
these springs is grand; they are situated
immediately on the eastern bank
of New river, and both opposite and
below the springs the rocks present
the most majestic appearance: there
being several Natural Pillars that
rise perpendicularly to the height of
from 30 to 200 feet, and natural
arches; one pillar is denominated
"Pompey's Pillar"—near which is
"Cæsar's Arch:" the pillar and arch
nearly join. Five miles from these
springs, and 10 E. of Parisburg, is
situated the Salt Pond, a natural
lake. The mountain on which this
lake or pond is situated, is supposed
to be the highest in Virginia; being
one of the spurs, or it might be called,
the main Alleghany mountain. The
situation of Parisburg is eligible and
picturesque; being located at the extremity
of a mountain called "Angel's
Rest," and which is a continuation
of what is further west called "Clinch
mountain." From the top of Angel's
Rest, is an extensive view of New
river and the surrounding country.
Newbern, in Montgomery, can be
seen at 22 miles distant—and various
other places. There is a line of
stages running daily through this village
from Wythe C. H. to Lewisburg,
Greenbrier county.—This line leaves
the main western route at Newbern,
running from Washington City, to
Knoxville, Tenn. There is also a
mail from Franklin, and another from
Tazewell C. H., running into this
place once a week. White population
170 persons; of whom 2 are
resident attorneys, and 1 a regular
physician—colored 34—total 204.

County Courts are held on the last
Monday
in every month. Quarterly
in March, June August, and October.

Judge Brown holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 9th of May and October.


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GRAYSON.

Grayson was established by the Legislature in the year 1793, from a
portion of the county of Wythe. It is bounded N. by Wythe,—N. E. by
Montgomery,—E. by Patrick,—S. by Surry and Ashe counties of N. C.—
and W. by Washington. Its mean length is 66⅓ miles, mean breadth 14;
and its area 927 square miles. It extends in lat from 36° 33′ to 36° 53′,
and in long. from 3° 28′ to 4° 46′ W. of W. C. Grayson is the most
eastern of the southern counties of Virginia, which are comprised in the
valley of the Ohio river. Great Kanawha rises in Ashe county of N. C.
and flows northeastwardly into Grayson, and thence turning eastward about
20 miles along the line of Va. and N. C.; and turning N. N. E. it traverses
Grayson, which it leaves by piercing the iron mountain. This
county slopes northward, and is drained by innumerable creeks, which
flow into the Great Kanawha, which is here called New river. The elevation
of Grayson is about 1600 feet above the level of the ocean.

Population in 1810, 4,941—in 1820, 5,598—in 1830, 7,675. This county
belongs to the 10th judicial circuit and 5th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$468 45—in 1834 on lots, $10 54—on land, $232 90—215 slaves, $53 75
—2238 horses, $134 28—8 studs, $31 00—1 coach, $2 00—4 carryalls,
$4 50. Total, $468 97. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,
$544 15—in 1833, $495 23.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Cranberry Plain, P. O. 277
ms. S. W. by W. of R. and 353 from
W., situated on Cranberry creek, a
small branch of the Great Kanawha,
which rises in the Iron mountains,
and flows S. over the west angle of
Graysen, into Ashe Co. N. C.

GREENSVILLE, or GRAYSON
C. H. P. V. and Seat of Justice, 276
ms. from R. and 354 S. W. by W. of
W., situated on the right bank of
New river, 25 ms. S. S. E. of Eversham,
the county seat of Wythe. It
contains besides the usual county
buildings, 9 dwelling houses, 3 miscellaneous
stores, 1 tavern, and several
mechanics. White population 49
persons; of whom 1 is an attorney—
blacks 19—total 68.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month. Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Brown holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 10th of April and September.

GREENBRIER.

Greenbrier was formed by the Legislature in 1777, and created from
portions of Botetourt and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Nicholas,
and Pocahontas,—E. by Bath. and Alleghany,—S. by Monroe,—and W.
by Great Kanawha, which separates it from Logan. Its mean length is 46
miles, mean breadth 32½; and area 1,409 square miles. It extends in lat.
from 37° 40′ to 38° 18′ N. and in long. 3° to 4° 3′ W. of W. C. It is principally
drained by Greenbrier river, and its tributaries, but from its western


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border numerous creeks flow northwestwardly into Gauly river, the
principal of which is Sewell's creek.[39] It rises in Sewell's mountain (the

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highest mountain in this county,) and is one of the extreme southern
sources of Gauley river. The surface of this county is much broken and
in parts mountainous. The most conspicuous is that known by the name
of Keeney's Nob, on which is a creek which rises near the top of the
mountain, runs west and empties into New river, one mile below Richmond's
falls. Keeney's Nob runs parallel with New river. The country
here is a wilderness. The mountains are covered with a growth of large
timber of various kinds, and are infested with reptiles, such as the rattle
snake, copper head, black snake, &c. &c. There is an abundance of deer,
wild turkeys, pheasants, wolves, wild cats, panthers, bears, and a variety of
small game.—The mean elevation of the farms above the ocean level is at-least
1500 feet. The staples of this county are Indian corn, oats, buckwheat
and cattle.

Population in 1820, 7,340, and in 1830, 9,006. This county belongs
to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1719 75
—in 1834 on lots, $49 70—on land, $858 39—644 slaves, $161 00—
4788 horses, $287 28—22 studs, $208 00—21 coaches, $42 50—2


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stages, $4 00—11 carryalls, $11 00—10 gigs, $5 10. Total, $1,671 97.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $537 90—in 1833, no commissioners
report.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Anthony's Creek, P. O. 254 ms.
from W. and 212 N. W. by W. of R.
This post office is located in the north
eastern part of the county, and is called
after the name of a small stream
running N. E. and S. W. nearly
parallel with the Greenbrier, until it
empties into that river, 30 ms. from
its source. It rises in small rills on
the north side of the Alleghany
mountain, and runs along its foot,
gradually increasing to the width of
about 50 feet at its mouth—in a beautiful
well timbered valley. The
land is fertile and well adapted to all
kinds of grain and grazing. Horses,
cattle, &c. are raised in abundance in
this valley. There are between 70
and 80 dwelling houses on the different
farms, and the principal pursuit
of the inhabitants is agriculture,
though there are many mechanics,
such as tanners, blacksmiths, gunsmiths,
carpenters, joiners, cabinet
makers, watch makers, boot and shoe
makers, &c. There are 2 houses of
public worship, (1 Presbyterian and
1 Methodist,) 3 common schools, 1
temperance society, 1 mercantile store,
4 grist and 5 saw mills. The situation
of this post office is handsome
and eligible, on the main post road
leading from the Warm Springs in
Bath county; which crosses the
Greenbrier near the mouth of Anthony's
creek, on a neat and permanent
covered free bridge, near 200 feet in
length, and which intersects the Kanawha
turnpike road 13 ms. west of
Lewisburg;—distant 21 ms. from the
county seat, and 13 N. E. of the
White Sulphur Springs. This valley
has the Alleghany mountain on
the S. and other hills too steep for
cultivation on the north. They afford,
however, extensive ranges for
stock in summer, and wild game for
the hunter is still found.

Blue Sulphur Springs, P. O.
234 ms. W. of R. and 276 S. W. by
W. of W. C., situated 20 ms. from the
White Sulphur Springs, 10 S. W. of
Lewisburg, and 18 ms. N. of the
Salt Sulphur Springs. They take
their rise in a narrow, yet beautiful,
and fertile valley, which is terminated
a short distance above by lofty
mountains. This valley is a branch
or arm of a larger one, here thrown
out as if to penetrate deeper into the
solitude of the mountains, by whose
lofty battlements it is almost encircled.
These mountains present their
towering heads high above the adjacent
country, covered with a richly
variegated forest, which the timid
deer seek for shelter from the eager
pursuit of their enemies. From their
rocky sides gush limpid springs,
which uniting, form a beautiful rivulet
that irrigates and fertilizes the
bottoms below. It pursues its gentle
and meandering line down the valley
which widens as the hills recede, until
it is lost by its union with another
stream of its own name.

The mountain scenery is indeed
rich and romantic, presenting an almost
endless variety, interesting and
delightful. Here the painter may
find employment in sketching the
bold outline of nature's works—the
botanist in contemplating the beauties
and varieties of the vegetable kingdom—and
the philosopher and mineralogist,
in speculating upon the unexplored
regions of fossil and miseral
formations, with which these mountains
so richly abound.

Within the precincts of the springs
stand groves of sugar maple, interspersed
with other forest trees, in all


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the beautiful irregularity of nature;
under their luxuriant foilage, is
spread a verdant carpet, inviting the
weary to rest,—the seekers of health
and pleasure to recline, and inhale
the pure breeze that passes by, and
taste the salubrious fountain that bubbles
beneath. Nature has performed
her part, and it remains alone for the
hand of enterprise and industry, to
develope the beauty and utility of this
highly favored spot. The proprietors,
sensible of its value and advantages,
are now engaged in erecting
upon it improvements commensurate
with the utmost demands of the public.
The buildings are planned and
commenced upon an extensive scale,
uniting elegance, convenience, and
durability. The grounds within the
precincts of the establishment will be
so laid out as to promote the ease
and enjoyment of the visiter, and at
the same time, add to the convenience
and embellishment of the premises.
From 20 to 30 thousand dollars will
be expended as soon as practicable, and
other additional improvements made
as the interests of the public may require.
The day is not distant, when the
Blue Sulphur Springs will be brought
into successful competition with any
other watering place of fashionable
resort in Western Virginia.

Dr. Simpkins remarks, "that having
practised medicine in the county
of Greenbrier for some 9 or 10 years,
I have had during that period annual
manifestations of the healing powers
of the Blue Sulphur water, in the
following catalogue of diseases, viz.
dyspepsia in its first stage; dyspepsia
or indigestion complicated with deranged
function of the liver; habitual
constipation, arising from a deficiency
of healthy bile, from sedentary habits,
or from atony, or weakness of the
bowels. In the sequel, of Asiatic
cholera, I have had reason to believe
the Blue Sulphur water to be a powerful
restorative."

In hemorrhoidal affections it is particularly
serviceable. In that endless
variety of nervous and hypochondriacal
feelings, which have their
origin in a deranged state of the digestive
and glandular organs, the
remedial efficacy of the water, when
brought into judicious operation, will
insure permanent relief:—also in that
family of distempers which have their
seat in the skin, the Blue Sulphur
water may be regarded as a never
failing remedy.

Cases of great debility and emaciation
of system, produced by a long
existence of some local disease, it is
peculiarly adapted.

In all affections growing out of
some perversion in the uterine function;—as
hysteria, chlorosis, or green
sickness; partial or total suppression
of the menstruel secretion, &c., the
Blue Sulphur water may be resorted
to in full confidence of obtaining
speedy relief.

From the tried virtues of this
medical spring in the list of diseases
above enumerated, I think we may
correctly infer, that it holds at least
three active medicinal qualities in its
composition, viz. a tonic quality,
which admirably sustains and husbands
the debilitated system, while
the alimentary canal, and glandular
organs, are efficiently operated upon
by its cathartic and deobstruent powers.

Clintonville, P. O. 231 ms. N.
W. of R. and 273 from W., situated
on the James and Kanawha turnpike,
near the junction of the Warm
Spring and old State road, 11 ms.
west of Lewisburg, 13 ms. S. W. of
Frankfort, 44 S. E. of Summerville,
39 E. of Fayette C. H. and 8 ms.
W. of Sewell's mountain. The
ridge which divides the lime from
the freestone country, is in the immediate
vicinity of this place. A daily
and a weekly mail arrive at this village.
The improvements consist of
several dwelling houses, 1 house of
entertainment, 1 miscellaneous store,


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a blacksmith shop, 1 cabinet maker's
establishment, and 1 Methodist house
of worship. Population 16 whites
and 8 blacks.

Frankfort, P. V. 231 ms. from
R. and 273 S. W. of W., situated 10
ms. N. E. of Lewisburg, and 3 W. of
Greenbrier river, in a beautiful and
wealthy part of the county. It contains
about 50 dwelling houses, 1
Methodist house of worship, 2 common
schools, 1 for males and 1 for
females, 2 mercantile stores, 2 taverns,
1 tanyard, 1 saddler, and various other
mechanics. Population 230 persons;
of whom 1 is an attorney, and
2 are regular physicians. There are
very extensive sales of stock annually
effected in the neighborhood of this
village.

Hocrman, P. O. 233 ms. from R.
and 275 S. W. by W. of W.

LEWISBURG P. V. and Seat of
Justice,
221 ms. W. of R. and 263 S.
W. by W. of W.; in lat. 37° 48′ N.
and long. 3° 26′ W. of W. C. This
village is situated near the southern
border of the county, immediately on
the James river and Kanawha turnpike,
equi-distant 100 ms. from
Charleston, Kanawha, and Staunton,
Augusta, 9 ms. west of the White
Sulphur, and 12 east of the Blue Sulphur
Springs. Besides the ordinary
county buildings, it contains 101
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public
worship, (1 Baptist, 1 Presbyterian,
and 1 Methodist) 1 academy 1 common
school, and 3 Sunday s. hools, 6
mercantile stores, 1 printing office, issuing
a weekly paper, 2 tanyards, 3
saddlers, 4 blacksmith shops 2 copper
smiths and tin plate workers, 3
brick layers, 4 house carpenters 4
tailor shops, 2 cabinet makers, 2
watch and clock makers, 2 wagon makers,
and 3 hotels. The situation of
this village, is in a healthy, mountainous
region. It has been rapidly
improving for the last 3 or 4 years,
Population about 750 persons; of
whom 7 are attorneys, and 3 regular
physicians.

The western branch of the Court
of Appeals sets here, and commences
its session the 1st Monday in July,
and if business requires may set 90
days. The U. S. District Court sets
on the Friday succeeding the 1st
Monday
of April and September.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 10th of
May and October, by Judge Taylor

Lick Creek, P. O. 236 ms. from
R. and 293 N. W. by W. of W., situted
near the county line of Fayette.
It contains numerous dwelling houses,
and several mechanics. Its population
is 280. The land on the creek
is of good quality, producing well, Indian
corn, wheat, rye, oats and potatoes,
and table vegetables in abundance.
There are 3 grist mills in
the vicinity. A large stream of sulphur
water is found 5 ms. distant from
this P. O. near the mouth of the
creek.

Maysville, P. O. 224 ms. from
R. and 266 S. W. by W. of W.

Meadow Dale, P. O. 246 ms.
from R. and 288 from W.

Sewell Mountain, P. O. 252
ms. from R. and 294 S. W. by W. of
W., situated in the western part of the
county.

Spring Creek, P. O. 212 ms.
from R. and 254 S. W. by W. of W.

White Sulphur Springs, P. O.
212 ms. W. of R. and 254 S. W. of
W., situated in the eastern part of the
county, 9 ms. S. E. by E. of Lewisburg.
We regret that the proprietors
have not thought proper, to reply to
the repeated applications, made to
them for a description of this celebrated
and delightful watering place.
The great beauty of the place, the ex-


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tensive buildings erected and yet erecting,
and always insufficient,—the vast
concourse of visiters, the medicinal
powers of the waters, &c. are subjects
of which a detailed account might
have been written, which would have
been interesting not only to this state,
but to the whole country, which is
beginning to appreciate the excellence
of these waters. Already there is a
vast concourse of strangers, from the
north and the south, the east and the
west, coming from the din and bustle of
the city, or the baneful miasmata of
the marshes, to find health and pleasure
at the Virginia Springs, among
which this shines forth

"Ut lund inter minores sideres."

It has never been our misfortune
to he compelled to seek it for health,
but as an agreeable summer retreat,
no place can surpass it. We presume
the buildings in the approaching
summer of 1835, will be sufficient to
accommodate 400 persons. Several
large and handsome hotels have
sprung up in the neighborhood, for
the distance of 6 or 7 ms. with the
view of merely accomodating, the
company, over-flowing from the limited
accommodation at the Springs.
The General Assembly in the session
of 1833-4, granted a charter of incorporation
to the proprietors, but we
believe the stock has never been taken.
The property is now chiefly owned
by Mr. Caldwell. The capital authorized
by the charter is $500,000,
(of which not less than three-fifths are
to be held by other than the present
proprietors) or 5000 shares at $100
each.

"We knew the White Sulphur,
when the accommodations were confined,
and much unequal to the demand.
Those accommodations have
rapidly expanded, year after year, but
they are still as inadequate as 12 years
ago. The multitudes who flock thither
for recreation o
with the resources of the country and
its population, and will continue to increase
beyond what would now appear
a rational calculation. As a
property it is impossible to estimate
its worth. Some 10 years ago it was
estimated at from 75 to $150,000. It
has ascended in speculation to 500,000,
750,000, and $1,000,000. A few
years hence, when further improved,
this will unquestionably be thought
far below the true value; for although
it is possible that as good sulphur water
may be found, better can never be,
and the established fame of the White
Sulphur must at all times, keep down
destructive competition."

 
[39]

The following is an extract from memoirs of Indian wars on the western frontier
of Virginia, communicated to the Philosophical Society of Virginia, by Charles
A. Stuart, Esq. of Augusta Co.

About the year 1749, a person who was a citizen of the county of Frederick, and
subject to paroxysms of lunacy, when influenced by such fits, usually made excursions
into the wilderness, and in his rambles westwardly, fell in on the waters of
Greenbrier river. At that time, the country on the western waters were but little
known to the English inhabitants of the then colonies of America, being claimed by
the French, who had commenced settlements on the Ohio and its waters, west of the
Alleghany mountains. The lunatic being surprised to find waters running a different
course from any he had before known, returned with the intelligence of his discovery,
which did abound with game. This soon excited the enterprize of others.
Two men from New England, of the name of Jacob Marlin and Stephen Sewell,
took up a residence upon Greenbrier river; but soon disagreeing in sentiment a quarrel
occasioned their separation, and Sewell, for the sake of peace, quit their cabin
and made his abode in a large hollow tree. In this situation they were found by the
late General Andrew Lewis, in the year 1751. Mr. Lewis was appointed agent for a
company of grantees, who obtained from the Governor and Council of Virginia, an
order for one hundred thousand acres of land lying on the waters of Greenbrier river,
—and did, this year, proceed to make surveys to complete the quantity of said granted
lands; and finding Marlin and Sewell living in the neighborhood of each other,
inquired what could induce them to live separate in a wilderness so distant from the
habitations of any other human beings. They informed him that difference of opinion
had occasioned their separation, and that they had since enjoyed more tranquility
and a better understanding, for Sewell said, that each morning when they arose and
Marlin came out of the great house and he from his hollow tree, they saluted each
other saying—good morning Mr. Marlin, and good morning Mr. Sewell, so that a
good understanding then existed between them; but it did not last long, for Sewell
removed about forty miles further west, to a creck that still bears his name. There
the Indians found him and killed him.

Previous to the year 1775, Mr. Lewis had completed for the grantees, under the
order of council, upwards of fifty thousand acres;—and the war then commencing
between England and France, nothing further was done in the business until the year
1761, when his majesty issued his proclamation commanding all his subjects within
the bounds of the colony of Virginia, who were living, or who had made settlements
on the western waters, to remove from them, as the lands were claimed by the Indians,
and good policy required that a peaceable understanding should be preserved
with them, to prevent hostilities on their part. The order of council was never afterwards
carried into effect, or his majesty's consent obtained to confirm it.

At the commencement of the revolution, when the state of Virginia began to assume
independence, and held a convention in 1776, some efforts were made to have
the order of council established under the new order of things then beginning to take
place. But it was not confirmed, and commissioners were appointed in 1777, to
grant certificates to each individual who had made settlements on the western waters,
in the state of Virginia, previous to the year 1768 and since, with preference according
to the time of improvements, which certificates gave the holder a right to four,
hundred acres for his settlement claim, and the pre-emption of one thousand more, if
so much were found clear of prior claims, and the holder chose to accept it. The
following year, 1771, Greenbrier was separated from Botetourt county,—and the
county took its name from the river, which was so named by old Colonel John Lewis,
father to the late General, and one of the grantees under the order of council, who
in company with his son Andrew, exploring the country in 1751, entangled himself
in a bunch of green briers on the river, and declared he would ever after call the
river Greenbrier river.

After peace was confirmed between England and France, in the year 1761, the Indians
commenced hostilities in 1763, when all the inhabitants in Greenbrier were
totally cut off by a party of Indians, headed by the Cornstalk warrior. The chief
settlements were on Muddy creek. These Indians, in number about sixty, introduced
themselves into the people's houses under the mask of friendship,—and every civility
was offered them by the people, providing them victuals and accommodations for
their entertainment, when, on a sudden, they killed the men and made prisoners of
the women and children. From thence they passed over into the Levels, where some
families were collected at the house of Archibald Clendenin, (where the Hon Balard
Smith now lives.) There were between fifty and one hundred persons, men, women
and children. There the Indians were entertained, as at Muddy creek, in the most
hospitable manner. Clendenin having just arrived from a hunt, with three fat elks,
they were plentifully feasted. In the mean time an old woman, with a sore leg, was
showing her distress to an Indian, and inquiring if he could administer to her relief;
he said he thought he could—and drawing his tomahawk, instantly killed her and all
the men almost that were in the house. Conrad Yolkom only escaped, by being some
distance from the house, when the outcries of the women and children alarmed him.
He fled to Jackson's river and alarmed the people, who were unwilling to believe
him until the approach of the Indians convinced them. All fled before them; and
they pursued on to Carr's creek, in Rockbridge county, where many families were
killed and taken by them. At Clendenin's a scene of much cruelty was performed;
and a negro woman, who was endeavoring to escape, killed her own child, who was
pursuing her crying, lest she might be discovered by its cries. Mis Clendenin did
not fail to abuse the Indians with terms of reproach, calling them cowards, &c. although
the tomahawk was drawn over her head, with threats of instant death, and
the scalp of her husband lashed about her jaws. The prisoners were all taken over
to Muddy creek, and a party of Indians retained them there till the return of the
others from Carr's creek, when the whole were taken off together. On the day they
started from the foot of Keeney's Knob, going over the mountain, Mrs. Clendenin
gave her infant child to a prisoner woman to carry, as the prisoners were in the
centre of the line with the Indians in front and rear, and she escaped into a thicket
and concealed herself until they all passed by. The cries of the child soon made
the Indians inquire for the mother, who was missing; and one of them said he would
soon bring the cow to her calf. Taking the child by the heels, he beat its brains out
against a tree, and throwing it down in the path, all marched over it, till its guts
were all trampled out with the horses. She told me she returned that night in the
dark, to her own house, a distance of more than ten miles, and covered her husband's
corpse with rails, which lay in the yard, where he was killed in endeavoring to
escape over the fence, with one of his children in his arms; and then she went into
a corn-field, where great fear came upon her, and she imagined she saw a man standing
by her, within a few steps.

The Indians continued the war till 1764, and with much depredation on the frontier
inhabitants, making incursions as far as within a few miles of Staunton. An
end, however, was put to the war in the fall of that year, by the march of an army
under the command of Colonel Bouquet, a British officer, who assembled, with his
regular troops, at Fort Pitt, some companies of militia from Augusta county and
other places,—which, I believe, either volunteered their services or were such as were
ordered on the frontiers to protect the inhabitants during the war. Colonel Bouquet
held a treaty with the Indians somewhere near Muskingum, and the Indians delivered
up many prisoners, who returned to their friends, and a peace was concluded,
which continued until 1774.

HAMPSHIRE.

Hampshire was established by the Legislature in 1754, from a portion
of Augusta and Frederick. It is bounded by Morgan N. E., Frederick E.,
Hardy S. and Potomac and Alleghany county of Maryland, N. E. and N.
Its mean length is about 33 ms.; mean breadth 30; and area 989 sq. ms.
It extends in lat from 1° 28′, to 2° 12′ W. of W. C. A large proportion of
the soil is poor, and much that is cultivated, is on steep acclivities. It nevertheless
produces an abundance of wheat of the first quality, for a few crops
after it is first cleared, and would continue to produce well, were it judiciously
cultivated, as gypsum acts powerfully upon it. The high mountains
are untillable, but would afford an excellent range for sheep, both as
to the quality of mutton and wool which would be produced, could the attention
of the inhabitants be turned that way. The people inhabiting the


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hills and mountains, though poor, are honest and hardy, and independent,
living comfortably upon the produce of their own lands.

The principal streams are South branch of Potomac, the North branch of
Potomac, the main river Potomac, and the great Cacapon. On all of these
there are extensive and fertile low grounds. The South branch has long
been celebrated for its rich, and inexhaustible bottom lands. In the county
of Hardy through which the South branch flows, before it enters Hampshire,
the low grounds on this river as regards the feitility, may be styled the
garden spot of Virginia, and are not surpassed in natural productiveness by
any perhaps in the world. They have been known to be cultivated in Indian
corn, in some instances, for 20, 30 or 40 years in succession, with very
little dimunition of their product. In Hampshire the low grounds become
narrow, with some small change in the quality of the soil, but are estimated
at very high prices by the owners. They have sold at the extravagant
price of 100 and $150 per Hardy, as high as $300, but those
days have past. The bottoms on the North branch are also rich, but inferior
to those on the South.

On the great Cacapon which flows in a course of 40 ms. and upwards
through the county, the low grounds are inferior to those on the North
branch. Patterson's creck also flows through the whole breadth of the
county, having fine bottom lands on its margin throughout its course. The
face of the country here, and in the county of Hardy, give evidence of
convulsions and disruptions, which we might suppose took place in a war
between rivers and mountains at some remote period, from which it might
be infered, that the rich valley on the South branch, had at one time been
a lake; that the waters had risen until they had broken over the mountains
in different places, and torn for themselves a passage through, quite down
to their bases; leaving tremendous precipices of rocks of astonishing height,
which overhang the traveller on the road, passing through those breaches
on the narrow margin, now formed between the river and the rocks. One
of these is to be seen about 4 ms. below the town of Romney, constituting
an object of great grandcur and sublimity to the beholder; and what heightens
his wonder and curiosity, still more, it appears as if the capricious river
not content with the victory it had gained, or the course it had taken: about
3 or 4 ms. below, it breaks through the same mountain again, to the same
side on which it had previously flowed, leaving a similar precipice on its
opposite side.

But one of the most puzzelling curiosities in this county, is what is called
the Ice mountain. It appears to be an entire pile of stone from its base to
its summit, about the size of building stone, destitute of soil or clay, trees
or shrubs, with few exceptions. It is fully exposed to the whole power of
the sun's rays for the greatest part of the day, yet throughout the whole of
the hottest summer, on any part of this mountain thus exposed to the sun,
lumps of ice may be found on turning up the stones to the depth of about a
foot, which shews that the mineralogical or chemical composition of the
mountain, is such as to preserve ice in hot weather, if not to produce it: but
what that composition is, has not yet been ascertained, though it is notorious
that the ice may be found as stated. This natural ice house is situated near
the North River Mills, and near the old road leading from Romney to
Winchester, about 17 ms. from the former,—in the north western section
of the county, on the margin of the North branch of the Potomac. The
boundary at that place between Virginia and Maryland, are immense fields


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of bituminous coal, which have lately attracted the attention of capitalists
from the cities, who are at this time rapidly purchasing them up, with a
view to the great profits which it is contemplated they will yield, when the
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal shall reach them. The calculation is no doubt
a rational one, when the small expense which it will require to place this
coal in the boat, and the facility of carrying it to market on the canal (if it
should be made) is considered. Near to these coal fields there are indicacations
of iron ore in large quantities, affording the most ample means of
competing with England in the cheapness of bar iron for Rail Roads, &c.:
for it is well known that where iron is made by stone coal instead of wood
coal, and by rolling it out in mills instead of hammering, it can be sold for
one half the price which it must cost to make it by charcoal and forge hammers,
as is practised now in the United States with few exceptions. There
are large deposits of iron ore over the whole country. It is thought to be
more abundant in this, than in in the state. Along the
great Cacapon, from its source to its mouth, the appearance of large mines
of it, is to be seen in almost every ridge. Very little of it has yet been
worked, but the greatest part of what has been tried, is found to be of the
best quality. In fact for the manufacture of iron, the great Cacapon may
become to Virginia, what Juniata has to Pennsylvania, a great source of
wealth. The men of wealth on the South branch, and in other parts of the
county, have hitherto been so entirely engrossed in fattening beef for market,
that they have thought very little of improving any other resource of
the country, not even in erecting mills, for manufacturing flour; but it is to
be hoped, that the north western turnpike, now making, which passes
through the whole length of the country from east to west, will bring its
other resources into action which were locked up before by the mountains.
The lowest elevation of this county is along the branches of the Potomac,
and this exceeds 500 ft. Population in 1820, 10,889—1830, 11,279. It
belongs to the 13th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$2,399 27—in 1834, on lots, $19 01—on land, $1,631 86—703 slaves,
$175 75—4,925 horses, $295 50—22 studs. $169 00—6 coaches, $13 00
22 carryalls, $22 00—7 gigs, $5 80. Total, $2,411 92. Expended in
educating poor children in 1832, $912 14—in 1834, $949 00.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Burlington, P. O. 205 ms. from
R. and 126 N. N. W. of Washington
City, situated on a small water
course, called Patterson's creek. It
contains a mercantile store, a house
of entertainment, several houses occupied
by mechanics, and a house of
public worship, free for all denominations.
The mail passes and repasses
this post office once a week. A new
route has been lately established from
this place, to Smith's Farm in Alleghany
county, Maryland; on which
the mail passes to and fro once a
week. The north western turnpike
from Winchester to the Ohio, passes
immediately through this place, having
passed through Romney, the
county seat, 11 ms. E.

Cold Stream Mill and P. O.
172 ms. from R. and 93 N. W. by
W. of W. This village is situated
20 ms. N. W. of Winchester, 21 S.
E. of Romney, and 2 N. of the Parkersburg
and Winchester road. It
contains, 12 dwelling houses, 1 Episcopalian,
and 1 Presbyterian house of
worship, 1 classical school, 1 mercantile
store, 1 woollen manufactory,
extensive manufacturing flour mill,


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2 saw mills, 2 gunsmiths, doing a
considerable business annually, 1
cabinet maker, and various other mechanics.
Population 68 whites, 2 of
whom are physicians, and 12 colored,—total
80. Much timber is carried
in boats and rafts from this place,
down the Big Cacapon to the Potomac,
and thence to various markets.
The Cold Stream is one of the best
water courses in the state; on it are
several mill seats and manufactories;
it flows abundantly in the dryest season,
and never freezes in winter. It
empties into the Cacapon river, about
50 above the woollen factory
before mentioned. The bottom and
level lands in this neighborhood are
fertile, producing corn, wheat oats,
rye, &c., and are improved by clover
and plaster. The country around is
somewhat mountainous, generally
high and rocky. Six miles N. of
this place is the famous Ice mountain
spoken of in the general description
of Virginia in the first part of the
work. The mountain is situated
near North river, and on the north
west side of the mountain. By removing
the stones for a about a foot
below the surface, ice may be had in
any quantity in the dryest and hottest
season of the year.

Dillon's Run, P. O. 179 ms. N.
W. of R. and 100 N. W. of W., situated
16 miles E. of Romney, the
county seat.

Frankfort, P. O. 203 ms. from
R. and 124 ms. N. W. by W. of W.,
situated near the right bank of Patterson's
creek, in the northern part
of the county. It contains 25 dwelling
houses, 1 Episcopalian house of
worship, 3 miscellaneous stores, 2
taverns, 1 manufacturing flour mill,
1 tan yard, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith
shops, 1 cooper, 1 wagon maker, 1
hatter, 1 chair maker, and 3 boot and
shoe factories. Population 146
whites, including 1 physician, and 13
colored,—total 159.

Glencoe, P. O. 170 ms. from R.
and 91 N. of W. Glencoe though
called a village, is simply a post office,
at which is kept a mercantile store
of considerable notoriety. It is situated
on the road leading from Winchester
to Romney, 19 ms. from the
former, and 25 from the latter. In
the vicinity on the great Cacapon are
situated 2 extensive manufacturing
flour mills, an iron forge, in great
repute, 2 tan yards, several wagon
makers, and blacksmith shops; and
various other mechanics in the neighborhood.
Within 10 ms. of this
place are situated the celebrated Capon
Springs,
which are famed for
the medical qualities of their waters.
The accommodations are comfortable
and convenient, and there are generally
in the summer months from 50
to 70 boarders, who resort to these
springs for health and pleasure. The
country around is extremely rough
and mountainous. The great Cacapon
at its head, takes the name of
Lost river, from the fact that it disappears,
and after taking a subterraneous
passage for some considerable
distance, is seen again. When this
stream is high great quantities of
lumber are conveyed to Harper's
Ferry, Georgetown, Washington
City, and Alexandria. Some years
since the Cacapon and North river
company was created with a view of
making these streams navigable.
Five miles distant from this place,
there is an extensive vineyard, belonging
to Gen'l Lockhart, in a flourishing
condition, the wine of which
is said for flavor and richness, nearly
to equal any imported. He manufactured
in each of the successive
years of 1832-3, from 5 acres, 30
barrels. The different religious denominations
in this section are Presbyterians,
Baptists and Methodists.

Hanging Rock, P. O. 182 ms.
from R. and 103 S. W. by W. of W.,
situated 28 ms. W. of Winchester,
and 15 E. of Romney, the county
seat. Hanging Rock post office derives


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its name from a large rock that
projects or hangs over the road, passing
through a gap of the North river
mountain, where the northwestern
turnpike road, lately located from
Winchester to the Ohio river, now
passes. This Rock is situated about
a fourth of a mile on the E. side of
the North river, a stream navigable
for rafts, boats, &c. It empties into
great Cacapon, 14 ms. N. E. of this
place. The post office was first established
near the rock, but has been
twice moved,—its present location is
2½ miles west of the rock. In the
vicinity there are 2 houses of public
worship, (1 Methodist called Hanging
Rock Meeting House,
the other
free for all denominations, called
Zion's Church,) 1 manufacturing
flour mill, and 1 grist mill. Two
miles below the rock, on a small
stream emptying into North river, 4
miles above this place, are 2 grist and
1 oil mill, and carding machine. The
lands on North river are generally
fertile and productive, and those lying
between North river and South
Branch of Potomac, are mostly broken
and hilly, but where well cultivated
are tolerably productive. The
turnpike crosses 3 considerable mountains,
viz. North river, Sandy ridge,
and Dillon's mountains.

Little Cacapon, river and P. O.
188 ms. from R. and 109 from W.
The P. O. is situated 1 mile W. of
Little Cacapon river, 14 N. E. of
Romney, and 7 E. of Springfield, at
the Sulphur Springs, on the Springfield
road. The water of this spring
is strongly impregnated with minerals,
is pleasant to the taste, and is
somewhat noted for its salubrious
efficacy. At this spring there is a
natural mound, composed of rock
and earth, about 20 feet in height and
60 in circumference at its base, with
the main post road passing on one
side, and a small stream of water on
the other. This mound invariably
attracts the attention of the passing
traveller, being unconnected with any
other high ground, and loaded with
a growth of large timber. There
has been lately erected here a house
of entertainment. Little Cacapon
has its source in the Grassy Lick, on
Stoney mountains, in the southwest
part of the county, runs northeast 50
miles, and after receiving numerous
tributaries, empties into the Potomac
river.—This stream was declared a
public highway by an act of the Virginia
Legislature in 1832, and is
navigable for boats, rafts, &c. 20 ms.
from its mouth. The soil on this
creek is of good quality, producing
well wheat, corn, rye, oats, &c.
There are 1 manufacturing flour mill,
7 saw and 5 grist mills, located on
this stream; and in its vicinity are 3
houses of public worship, (2 Baptist
and 1 Presbyterian.) The uplands
in the neighborhood are slate soil,
and when first cleared produce good
wheat, corn, &c. The mountains
and hills abound in pine of the best
quality. The principal mountains
are Spring Gap and Little Capon
mountains
on the east,—and Town
Hill mountain
on the west, running
parallel with the stream.

North River Mills, P. O. 178
ms. from R. and 99 from W.

North River Meeting House,
P. O. 194 ms. from R. and 115 N.
W. by W. of W.

Paddytown, P. V. 214 ms. from
R. and 135 N. W. by W. of W.
This small but romantic village contains
6 dwelling houses, 1 mercantile
store, 1 manufacturing flour mill; and
there are in the immediate vicinity, 1
forge and furnace. It is situated upon
the banks of the North Branch of
Potomac river, between Knobley,
New Creek
and Alleghany mountains,
commanding a beautiful prospect
of the latter, which lies within
one and a half mile distant:—Queen's
Point
and Slim Bottom Hill. Queen's
Point is remarkable for the magnificent
aspect, which is here presented


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to the spectator. This Point overlooks
the river, and is upwards of
600 feet high, the extremity or top of
which is decorated with a large projecting
rock upwards of 100 feet in
height. Through this rock which
is about 200 feet in width there is a
kind of avenue or alley, thro' which
visitors generally pass. This point
is a place of considerable resort, during
the summer season, and derives
its name from the circumstance of a
traveller by the name of Queen, having
attempted to pass by the foot path,
which leads around the base of the
rock, upon horseback, but the feet of
the animal slipping he was precipitated
with his rider over the precipice,
and both were killed.

Slim Bottom Hill is also a place
of some resort, and from its novelty
deserves to be partially noticed. The
most conspicuous part of this place
is a large prominent projecting rock
which overhangs the river, the height
of which is about 90 feet. This
rock appears to have been at one time
connected with the opposite rock on
the Maryland side. This general
opinion is derived from their similarity,
and the fact of their being so near
in contact, the river only separating
them. There are several other natural
curiosities immediately in the vicinity
of this village worthy of notice;
amongst others is a cavern or
cave, upon the side of Martin's Hill,
(another noted point not much short of
one thousand feet high,) from whence
there flows a very small stream.
This stream in this cave during the
summer season produces considerable
quantities of excellent ice. This remarkable
phenomenon can only be
solved in the following manner. Its
local situation being due north, and
the lower mouth being at the base of
the hill, and ascending gradually a
distance of perhaps 30 or 40 feet below
the surface of the earth, nearly
to the top of the hill, where it again
makes its appearance (though the
cavity is rather small to make it practicable
for persons to pass through.)
It thereby gives the cold northern
winds free access, which naturally
freezes the water in winter, and the
cavity serves as an icehouse, during
the summer. There is also a similar
cave on the land of Janney's heirs,
whence their issues a perpetual
breeze which is extremely cold.
This spot has a small house built
over it and is occupied as a milk
house. There is in this vicinity on
the lands of J. Singleton, a Salt
spring, from which there has been
several barrels of good salt manufactured.

ROMNEY, P. V. and seat of justice,
on the right bank of the South
Branch of Potomac, 195 ms. from R.
116 N. N. W. of W., 39 ms. in a
similar direction from Winchester,
and 28 S. of Cumberland in Maryland,
situated in lat 49° 20′ N. and
long 1° 42′ W. of W. C. Population
in 1830, 346, of whom 100
were colored persons.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month:—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Parker holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 28th of April and 12th
September.

Sherrard's Store, P. O. 174
ms. from R. and 95 from W.

Sheetz's Mill, P. O. 205 ms. from
R. and 126 N. W. by W. of W.

Springfield, P. V. 197 ms. from
R. and 118 N. W. by W. of W.
This village is situated at the intersection
of the post roads, leading
from Winchester to the national turnpike,
(42 ms. from the former and 17
from the latter) and the road leading
from Romney, to Old Town, Md., between
the South and North Branches
of the Potomac river, 1 mile from
the former and 7 from the latter. It
contains 30 dwelling houses, 2 houses
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian


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and 1 Methodist,) 1 seminary in
which are taught all the necessary
branches of an English education, 2
mercantile stores, 3 taverns, 1 tan
yard, 1 saddler, 3 boot and shoe factories,
2 smith shops, 2 tailors, 1
chair maker, 1 house joiner, and 1
wagon maker. Springfield is probably
one of the healthiest villages in
the Union, surrounded by beautiful
mountain scenery, and in the neighborhood
of forests, well stocked with
wild game, such as deer, turkeys,
pheasants, squirrels, &c. Population
162 persons; of whom 1 is a physician.

HARDY.

Hardy was created by the Legislature in 1786, and formed from a portion
of Hampshire county. It is bounded by Hampshire N. and N. E., Shenandoah
E., Rockingham S. E., Pendleton S., Randolph S. W. and W. and
Alleghany county, of Maryland, N. W.; its mean length is 42 ms.; breadth
17 and area 714 sq. ms., extending in lat from 38° 43′, to 39° 18′ N. and
in long. from 1° 43′, to 2° 30′ W. of W. C. The surface of Hardy inclines
to the N. E. and is traversed in that direction by the South branch, and sevral
other tributaries of the Potomac; with lateral chains of mountains intervening,
which also extend in a similar direction with the rivers. The
surface is much broken, and for the most part very rocky and sterile; but
tracts of excellent land, lie on the streams, and in the mountain vallies. The
mean elevation of the arable land, is perhaps 1000 ft. above the ocean.
There are some valuable banks of iron ore in this county, among these the
one near the Cacapon furnace, about 30 ms. from Winchester, deserves to
be mentioned. Population in 1820, 5,700—in 1830, 6,778. This county
belongs to the 14th judicial circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$2,549 64—in 1834, on lots, $34 21—on land, $1,999 81—607 slaves,
$151 75—3,837 horses, $230 22—20 studs, $173 00—8 coaches, $17 50
3 carryalls, $3 00. Total, $2,609 49. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $332 23—in 1833, $665 87.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Federal Hill, P. O. 178 ms. W.
of R. and 125 W. of W. C., situated
in the eastern part of the county.

Hazard Forge, P. O. 212 ms.
from R. and 145 W. of W. C.

MOOR FIELDS, P. V. and Seat of
Justice,
195 ms. from R. and 128 W.
of W. C. in lat. 39° 02′ N. and long
2″ 02′ W. of W. C. This village is
situated on the right bank of the South
branch of the Potomac, at the junction
of the South fork, in one of the
richest vallies in western Virginia, 50
ms. a little S. W. of Winchester. It
contains besides the usual county
buildings, 50 dwelling houses, 1
house of public worship, free for all
denominations, 1 English school, 2
Bible, 1 tract and 1 temperance society,
1 public library well supported, 5
mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, 2 saddlers,
1 hatter, 3 smith shops, 2 cabinet
makers, 2 house carpenters, 2 boot
and shoe factories, 3 tailors, 1 wagon
maker, and 2 milliners. In the vicinity
are 3 manufacturing flour mills
and 2 country mills, 2 carding and
1 fulling and dying machine. Population
350 persons; of whom 3 are attorneys,
and 4 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Tuesday
in every month,—Quarterly


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in March, June, August and November.

Judge Smith holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 21st of April and September.

Lost River, P. O. 130 ms. W. of
W. C. situated in the eastern part of
the county.

Luney's Creek, P. O. 201 ms.
from R. and 141 W. of W., situated
10 ms. W. of Moor Field.

Trout Run, or Wardensville,
Election Precinct and P. V. 180 ms.
from R. and 101 W. of W. This
village is situated on Trout Run,
which here unites with Lost River,
and forms the great Cacapon. The
great Cacapon is navigable at some
seasons of the year,—its principal
stream Lost River, rises within 2 ms.
of Wardensville, after having passed
several ms. under ground. This village
was laid off in 1827, and now
contains 17 dwelling houses, 1 house
of public worship, free for all denominations,
1 common school, 2 taverns,
1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 1 boot and shoe
maker, 2 tailors, 1 wagon maker, 1
chair maker, 1 hatter, 1 house joiner,
1 milliner and mantua maker, 1 stone
mason, and 1 smith shop. Population
75 persons, of whom 1 is a physician.
In the vicinity of this place,
are 2 manufacturing flour mills, and
4 iron works, 2 forges for manufacture
of bar iron, and 2 furnaces for
making pig iron and castings. Wardensville
is situated 28 ms. from Winchester,
18 from Woodstock, and equi
distant 26 from the county seats of
Hardy and Hampshire. It is destined
from its central situation, to become
a place of some importance.

HARRISON.

Harrison was created in 1784, and formed from a portion of Monongalia.
It is bounded N. and N. E. by Monongalia, E. by Randolph, S. by
Lewis, and W. by Wood and Tyler. Its mean length is 50 ms.; mean
breath 22 and area 1100 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 39° 03′, to 39° 35′
N. and in long. from 2° 53′ to 3° 55′ W. of W. C. The Western branch
of the Monongahela river, enters the southern border of Harrison, and winding
N. N. E. receives from both sides, numerous creeks, which drain the
central and most considerable part of this county. The western part however
declines westward, and is drained by the sources of Middle Island
creek. The surface of the whole county is much broken, but generally fertile.
Population in 1820, 10,932—1830, 14,792. It belongs to the 18th
judicial circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,616 64—in 1834,
on lots, $133 21—on land, 1,056 27—339 slaves, $84 75—5,284 horses,
$317 04—28 studs, $106 00—11 carryalls, $11 00. Total, $1,708 27.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $976 13—in 1833, $970 98.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Bridgeport, P. O. 266 ms. from
R. and 220 from W., situated 10 ms.
E. of Clarksburg, on Simpson's creek,
a branch of the west fork of the Monongahela
river. The location of the
north western turnpike road runs
through the town of Bridgeport. It
contains 20 dwelling houses, 1 house
of public worship free for all denominations,
1 common school, 2 houses of
entertainment, 1 grist and saw mill,
and various mechanics. The situation
of this town is high and healthy,
in a flourishing and densely settled


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part of the county, 11 ms. west of
Prunty town. It contains 14 families
and is improving.

CLARKSBURG, P. V. and Seat
of Justice,
260 ms. N. W. by W. of
R. and 226 from W. This healthy
and thriving village is situated above,
and S. S. W. of Morgantown, on the
right bank of the Monongahela river,
near the centre of north western Virginia,
at the junction of Elk creek,
with the west fork of the Monongahela,
about 100 ms. by the post road south
of Pittsburg, 250 W. of Baltimore,
and 70 E. of the Ohio river. It is a
corporate town and well built; containing
besides the usual county buildings,
100 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist
house of worship, 2 common
schools, a temperance, bible and Sunday
school society, 9 mercantile
stores, a grist and an oil mill, 1 printing
office which issues a weekly paper,
1 tanyard, 3 saddlers, and all other
mechanics usual or necessary for an
inland town. There is a chalybeate
spring, whence issues a never failing
stream of highly medicinal water.
This village stands on a rolling table
land, surrounded by an amphitheatre
of hills, ranging in distance from a
mile, to a few hundred yards. Elk
Run
meadering through and around
the town, adds additional beauty to
the scene. Clarksburg is furnished
with inexhaustible supplies of coal in
its immediate neighborhood; and
being situated in the midst of a large
and flourishing county, possessed of
valuable arable lands and great mineral
wealth in its iron, salt, &c. and
being near the centre of N. W. Virginia,—it
may hope in time to become
a place of considerable importance.
Its present population is 700 persons,
of whom 20 are attorneys, and 4 regular
physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Monday,
in every month.—Quarterly
in March, June, August and
November.

Judge Duncan holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 3d of May, and October.

Hoffsville, P. O. 253 ms. from
R. and 236 W. of W.

Lewisport, P. V. 290 ms. from R.
and 256 from W., situated 35 ms. W.
of Clarksburg, and 25 both from
Weston and Middlebourn, county seats
of Lewis and Tyler, on the main stage
road, at the point, at which it crosses
Middle Island creek. This creek is
a beautiful stream, which empties into
the Ohio; it is 75 yards wide, and
navigable from its mouth to this place.
Lewisport contains 8 dwelling houses,
1 Baptist house of worship, 1 common
school, 1 mercantile store, 2 taverns,
1 manufacturing flour mill, and several
mechanical establishment. Population
50 persons; of whom 1 is a
physician. This village is surrounded
by endless quantities of valuable
timber,—the neighborhood abounds
with stone coal and limestone; and
many excellent sites for manufactories.
Wheat, rye, oats and timothy,
are the principal products. The face
of the country is uneven, but the soil
rich.

Milford 265 ms. from R. and 233
from W. This village is pleasantly
situated on the north bank of the west
fork of the Monongahela river, 8 ms.
S. S. W. of Clarksburg. It contains
15 dwelling houses, 1 house of public
worship, (Methodist) 1 house of public
entertainment, 1 miscellaneous
store, 1 tanyard, 1 boot and shoe maker,
1 gun smith, 1 house carpenter,
1 cooper, 1 grist and 1 saw mill. The
land in the immediate vicinity of this
village is level, but that of the surrounding
country is somewhat mountainous;
but not so precipitous as to
preclude its cultivation, to the very
summit. The soil is generally good,
the bottoms being a heavy soil suited
for meadow lands. The hills are
generally a loose black soil, and very
fertile. The products are wheat, Indian
corn, rye, oats, flax, hemp and
various kinds of pulse and vegetables.


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The lands are peculiarly adapted to
raising cattle, which is one of the
principal staples of this county. Population
61,—the odd one being a slave.
The neighborhood is thickly settled,
and bids fair to be a thriving country,
should a market ever open to this
place. The post office has lately been
moved from Milford to Lost creek, on
the opposite side of the river.

New Salem, P. O. 240 ms. W. of
W. C. and 274 from R.

Prunty Town, P. V. 276 ms.
from R. and 209 N. W. by W. of W.
situated near the ferry across Tygart's
Valley river,
18 ms. N. E. by E. of
Clarksburg. It contains 18 dwelling
houses, 1 Methodist and 1 Baptist
house of worship, 1 common school,
3 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 1
tanyard, 2 saddlers, 2 boot and shoe
factories, 1 hatter, 1 tailor, 2 smith
shops, 1 gun smith, and 1 cabinet maker.
Population 110. The surrounding
country is somewhat broken, but
the soil is good, and well adapted to
the grazing of cattle; and growing
every species of small grain.

Shinnston, P. V. 270 ms. from R.
and 236 W. of W. C. This village
was laid off in the year 1817 by the
Rev. Asa Shinn and brothers, and incorporated
by act of Assemby the same
year. It is situated on the right bank
of the West Fork river, on a beautiful
plam, containing about 30 acres of
land, 15 ft. above high water mark,
8 ms. N. E. of Clarksburg, and 30
S. W. of Morgantown.

The improvements are 18 dwelling
houses, 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 1 common
school, 2 miscellaneous stores, 1 waggon
maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun
smith, 1 watch maker and silver
smith, 3 cabinet makers, 1 saddler, 3
boot and shoe factories, 1 cooper, 1
tailor, 1 grist and 5 saw mills, several
house carpenters, and 10 lumber
merchants, by whom large quantities
of lumber are shipped annually from
this place to the different markets on
the Ohio river. The West Forkriver
at this place, is 350 ft. wide, passes in
a gentle current, and is navigable at
high water. It empties into the Tygart's
Valley river, 14 ms. below this
village—the two forming the Monongahela
of Virginia and Pennsylvania
Steam-boats might come to this place,
if there were no obstructing mill dams.
The surrounding country is hilly and
extremely broken, but exceedingly
well timbered with oak, shell bark,
hickory, poplars (120 ft. high,) black
locust, honey locust, sugar maple,
black walnut, butter nut, beach, cotton
wood, cypress, sycamore, birch,
lynn; and affords an abundance of
gensang, snake root, &c. The country
around is thickly settled, and the
pursuits of the inhabitants are agriculture,
grazing, and raising cattle,
and furnishing of lumber for the various
markets. The neighborhood of
Shinnton in geological language
would be called a secondary formation,
based on calcarious and clay shist
rocks, abounding in iron ore, and bituminous
coal, the latter unusually
abundant,—several strata being disposed
one above the other, in the same
hill. The strata are usually 10 feet
deep, of excellent coal. The substratum
of earth is also, generally about
10 ft. deep, composed of a yellow alluminous
clay, very suitable for pottery
and brick. The super stratum is
a rich vegetable mould, about one
foot deep, which if well cultivated,
produces excellent hemp, flax, maize,
wheat, sweet and Irish potatoes. Orchards
are nurtured with care and
apples celebrated for size and flavor;
peaches, plums, pears, pawpaws and
persimmons, and blackberries, grow
in such abundance that many ships
might be loaded with them. The forests
abound with nuts and fruits
which rear and fatten large quantities
of hogs, and reduce the price of pork
to 2 cents per pound,—other products
are equally cheap. The climate is
mild, and the country generally well


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refreshed with rain during the summer
months. In point of health this
place has few superiors. Unimproved
land is worth one dollar per acre,—
improved from three to five dollars,
and quarter acre lots in Skinnston
sell at fifteen dollars. The village
contains 17 families—aggregate population
100 persons; of whom 1 is a
physician.

JACKSON.

Jackson was created by the Legislature in March, 1831, and formed
from portions of Mason, Kanawha and Wood. It is bounded N. E. by
Wood, E. by Lewis, S. by Kanawha, S. W. by Mason, and N. W. by the
Ohio river. Its form is irregular. It lies between 38° 32′ and 39° 12′ N.
lat. Its length is 33 ms.; mean breath 24; and area 850 sq. ms. The Ohio
washes its north western border for a space of 34 ms. Several large and
valuable creeks intersect it. Great Mill creek rises in the southern part of
the county, and after pursuing a south easterly course 15 ms. turns to the
N., thence to the N. W. and empties into the Ohio, 4 ms. above the corner
of the county. Its length is 65 ms., half of which is navigable for boats.
Two miles below Ripley on this stream, are situated 1 manufacturing flour
mill, 1 saw mill, 1 wool carding and turning machine, a distillery and cabinet
maker's shop: a few miles below this, there is another mill. Sandy
creek,
8 ms. N. of Great Mill creek, is the next stream in importance; it
enters the Ohio in 39° 07′ N. lat. This little creek is inhabited by an industrious
and enterprising class of people, who have in the last three years
transported nearly $10,000 worth of lumber to market. Pond creek in the
northern part of the county is a good sized mill stream, but too small for
navigation; the greater part of this stream is in Mason county. It empties
into the Ohio in lat. 39° 15′ N. Reedy and Spring creeks rise in this
county,—the first pursuing a N. E., the latter a N. course. They pass into
Wood county, and after a short course, empty into the Little Kanawha.
The West Fork of Little Kanawha flows through this county, for a distance
of 10 ms. and affords some excellent sites for water works. Pocotalico
rises in this county, and flowing in a south westerly course, it enters Kanawha
county, and forms a junction with Little Kanawha river. This
county is not mountainous, but may be said to be a mass of hills, the highest
of which, are in the eastern side of the county. The soil is, as in many
parts of western Virginia, well adapted to grazing. The bottom lands
along Mill creek and its branches, are of the first quality,—other creeks
also present fine bottoms, and there is much arable land besides that on the
water courses. The productions of the county, are Indian corn, wheat, rye,
oats, flax, hemp, tobacco, potatoes and other productions usual in the same
latitude. The principal exports from the interior part of the county, are
cattle and pork;—along the Ohio the people export large quantities of
staves, hoop-poles, boats and lumber of every description. The agriculture
of the county may be said to be yet in its infancy, however, large quantities
of corn, &c. are carried down the Ohio annually, to different markets. Orchards
are not numerous, but where they have been planted early and nurtured
with care, produce in abundance. This county abounds with the
finest of thrifty white oak, both on the bottoms and ridges,—also black oak,
hickory, dogwood, sugar maple, poplar, ash, elm, lynn and sycamore, and


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on many of the ridges groves of yellow pine. The lands along the Ohio
river and other streams in this county, are alluvial, being composed of the
washings of the higher lands and hills, in which it is no uncommon thing
to find large logs, &c. buried a considerable depth below the surface; and
the higher level lands along the Ohio river, are generally composed of sand
and round gravel, similar to that found in the bed of the river, and commonly
lays in waves parallel to the river, which proves that it was once 60
or 70 feet higher than at the present time. There are in some of the northern
ranges of hills in this county an abundance of excellent limestone; in
some other parts there have been found small veins of mineral coal, and in
the vicinity of the C. H. are appearances of salt water. There are in this
county 3 mercantile stores, 8 saw mills, 5 grist mills, 1 distillery and 1
carding machine, and 5 tanneries. Population 3,300. It belongs to the
19th judicial circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $259 80—in
1834, on lots, $4 36—on land, $134 79—31 slaves, $7 75—972 horses,
$58 32—5 studs, $22 00. Total 227 22. No school commissioners report
for 1832. Expended in 1833, $113 28.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

RIPLEY, P. V. and Seat of Justice,
350 ms. N. of R. and 341 W. of
W., situated in lat. 38° 52′ N., 8 ms.
above Wright's mill, and 12 from the
Ohio river, on the Great Mill creek,
at its confluence with Sycamore creek.
It is a flourishing village, although
but recently established. From its
location in the valley of Mill creek,
and its being in a direct line between
Charleston, Kanawha, (distant 42
ms.) and Parkersburg, in Wood Co.,
it is anticipated that it will one day
be a place of some trade. At present
it contains besides the ordinary county
buildings, which are substantially
built of brick, 12 dwelling houses, 2
hotels, 1 common school, 1 mercantile
store, 1 mill wright, 1 house joiner,
2 smith shops, 1 tanyard, 1 boot
and shoe factory, 2 tailors, 1 brick
layer and 1 saw mill. Population
about 120 persons; of whom 2 are attorneys,
and 2 regular physicians.
There are within one mile of the C.
H. 32 dwelling houses, and 160 inhabitants.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 10th
of April and September, by Judge
Summers.

Reeds', P. O. 360 ms. N. W. of
R. and 334 W. of W. C., situated 10
ms. N. of Ripley.

Wright's Mills, P. O. 315 ms.
N. W. by W. of R. and 315 S. W.
by W. of W., situated at the falls of
Great Mill creek. This place deserves
notice from the singular freak
which nature has here played. The
creek which is generally 80 yards
wide, is here contracted to the space
of forty-five feet, allowing between
two ledges of rock which constitute
the banks, to the height of 16 ft. over
a bottom of solid rock. Immediately
below this narrow passage, the creek
widens to its usual size, and the falls
commence. The descent is 7 feet in
120 yards. At the lower end of the
falls, the creek is 100 yards wide, and
affords one of the best harbors ever
known in a stream of this size, being
about 100 yards in diameter, of a circular
form, and on the N. side, protected
from ice, &c. by a high point
of rocks, projecting a considerable distance
into the creek. From this to
the Ohio river, the navigation is good
during the spring freshets,—a dis-


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tance of 4 miles- At this place are
situated, 1 extensive manufacturing
flour mill, 2 saw mills, 1 grist mill,
11 dwelling houses, 3 school houses,
1 mercantile store, and 1 smith shop.
Population 55.

JEFFERSON.

Jefferson was created by the Legislature in 1801, and formed from a
portion of Berkley county. It is bounded N. by the Potomac river, which
separates it from Washington county, of Maryland,—E. by the Blue Ridge
separating it from Loudoun,—S. by Frederick,—and W. by Berkley. Its
mean length is 22 ms.; breadth 10; and area 220 sq. ms., extending in lat.
from 39° 10′, to 39° 20′ N., and in long from 0° 43′, to 1° 02′ W. of W.
C. The Shenandoah river enters this county near its south eastern border,
and flowing in a N. E. direction, parallel with the Blue Ridge, it enters
the Potomac at Harper's Ferry. The face of this county is rolling but very
fertile. Most of the inhabitants are good farmers; and the county is probably
as wealthy in proportion to its size as any in the state. The lands have
been enhanced in value from one hundred to one hundred and fifty per cent
by the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road,
both of which, reach the county at Harper's Ferry; and taken in connection
with the Winchester and Harper's Ferry Rail Road, which passes diagonally
through the county, the Shenandoah flowing through the eastern
portion, and the Potomac along the northern border, afford the citizens as
many facilities for transportation as the tide water counties possess. The
decline of the county is N. N. E. The water elevation at Harper's Ferry
being 182 ft. above tide water, that of the arable soil cannot fall short of 400
ft. This county has been for the most part settled by old Virginia families
from the eastern part of the state, and the inhabitants still retain that high
chivalrous spirit, and generous hospitality, for which that race was so remarkable
in the palmy days of their prosperity. Population in 1810,
11,851,—in 1820, 13,087—in 1830, 12,927. This county belongs to the
13th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,963 97—in
1834, on lots, $677 93—land, $2,690 82—2,354 slaves, $588 50—4,308
horses, $258 48—17 studs, $232 00—143 coaches, $326 80—2 stages,
$4 00—31 carryalls, $31 00—51 gigs, $38 50. Total, $4,848 08.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $705 26—in 1833,
$670 05.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

CHARLESTOWN, P. V. and Seat
of Justice,
182 ms. from R. and 60 N.
W. of W., situated 10 ms. S. W. by
W. of Harper's Ferry, with which it
is connected by an excellent turnpike.
Besides the usual county buildings, it
contains 200 dwelling houses,—a
Methodist, Episcopalian, and a Presbyterian
house of worship, a branch
of the Bank of the Valley, 1 academy
and several other schools, 9 mercantile
stores, 2 apothecary shops, 1
printing office, from which a weekly
paper is issued, 3 tanneries, 3 saddlers,
1 turner, and various other mechanics,
and 1 manufacturing flour
mill. Its situation is eligible and
healthy, and surrounded by a fertile
and wealthy country. The Shenandoah
Springs, formerly a place of considerable


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resort, are in the neighborhood
of this place. The Winchester
and Potomac Rail Road,
now in progress,
will pass through Charlestown.
Population 1,200 persons; of whom 7
are attorneys, and 6 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3rd
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, May, August and November.

Judge Parker holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 25th of March and 10th of
October.

Harper's Ferry, P. V. 174 ms.
from R. and 52 S. W. by W. of W.
This place has risen at the justly celebrated
pass of the Potomac through
the Blue Ridge, and is situated immediately
at the junction of the Potomac
and Shenandoah rivers, on the
right bank of Potomac, above the
mouth of Shenandoah. The level of
low water at the junction of the two
rivers, is 182 ft. above tide water at
Georgetown. It is distant 22 ms.
S. W. by W. of Frederick, Maryland,
and 25 almost due south of Hagerstown.
It contains about 500 houses,
2 hotels kept in the best style, 3
houses of public worship, 1 Methodist,
1 free for all denominations, and 1
Catholic. The last is one of the
handsomest and neatest buildings in
the state,—in this church, there is a
fine toned organ, and it is ornamented
by a beautiful steeple, which ascends
to the height of about 150 ft. above
the level of the river. There are 2
academies, (1 male, and 1 female,) and
2 common schools, 9 mercantile stores
and 2 apothecary shops, a lodge of
masons, and 1 of odd fellows, 1 printing
office, from which a weekly paper
is issued, 4 tailors, 3 boot and
shoe factories, 1 saddler, 1 silversmith,
1 coppersmith and tin plate worker,
3 house carpenters, 2 smith shops,
and 1 wagon maker. There are 2
extensive manufacturing flour mills,
and 1 of the most valuable saw mills
in the United States. The principal
curiosities of the place, are Jefferson's
Rock and the Maryland Pinnacle,
from the highest point of which, with
the aid of a good glass, may be seen
towns at the distance of 30 ms.

Those great national works, the
Chesapeake and Ohio Canal, and the
Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road are
now completed to this place, which
circumstance has already had a very
sensible effect on it, for the better.
There are 3 arrivals and departures
of the mail to and from the east, and
3 from the west in each week. There
is also a mail from Hagerstown, by
Harper's Ferry and Leesburg to
Washington City, twice a week.—
Formerly Harper's Ferry was considered
unhealthy, but for the last 5
years it has been quite the reverse.

We borrow a more extensive account
of the scenery of Harper's Ferry,
and the United States Armory
and Arsenal, there located, from a periodical
published a few years since.

"The Shenandoah, after running
along the foot of the Blue Ridge in a
direction nearly north-east, turns suddenly
to the east, and mingles its waters
with those of the Potomac, at the
point where the latter, after flowing
through a deep and well wooded dell,
from north-west to south-east, is entering
that singular gap in the Ridge,
through which the waters escape.
The valleys of both rivers are romantic,
and that of the Potomac unites singularity
with beauty.

We are accustomed to find valleys
running parallel to mountain chains
and separating ridge from ridge; the
whole of the great valley, which lies
between the North Mountain and the
Blue Ridge, and which is called in
this part of the country "the valley"
par excellence, presents an alternation
of such parallel, low lands and intervening
heights, the Shenandoah occupying
one of the former. But the
valley of the Potomac is not of this
class, it intersects at right angles the


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great mountain ranges and the system
of smaller elevations which are
subordinate to them; and the river is
thus distinguished from the more numerous
class of streams, which occupy
the bottoms of ordinary valleys.
The Potomac is not, however, a solitary
example of this kind, on the contrary,
most of our great Atlantic rivers
penetrate the mountains by extensive
lateral valleys, or are said, with
some degree of impropriety, to break
through the mountains at right angles
to their direction. These profound
passes are not uncommon in other
parts of the world, and present several
varieties. A deep ravine, in which
the rocks, presenting unequal resistance,
have separated unequally, and
where the stream, which rushes
through this accidental outlet, leaps
from rock to rock, and is alternately
seen foaming in the cataract or lost
in the narrow and gloomy gulf below;
in short where the waters are
not to be regarded as flowing over a
bed, but rather as penetrating through
crevices, which earthquakes have broken
in the immense wall that confined
them. Such is the appearance, which
theory would assign to these transverse
valleys and their streams; but
such is not the valley of the Potomac.
As seen from Harper's Ferry it presents
a bed of nearly uniform declivity
and width, corresponding in these
respects with that of the Shenandoah,
a valley, as I have before observed, of
a different class. The channels of
both rivers are of rock, much broken,
but presenting on the whole a regular
declivity, and passing in highly inclined
strata across the river. The
prevailing rocks of the whole neighborhood
being a coarse granite containing
unusually large grains of
quartz, and a species of slate stone.

The breadth of the Potomac is from
two hundred and fifty to three hundred
yards; that of the Shenandoah,
one hundred and fifty. Both rivers
are shallow, so shallow that the water
leaves innumerable necks bare in
every part of the channel, whose sides
are worn by thousands of petty rapids,
which fret and struggle among the
large blocks of granite.

The town extends itself in contempt
of all order, along both sides of the
hill which divides the two rivers, and
runs up to the jaws of the picturesque,
but in no way tremendous, pass of the
Potomac. At the point of this tongue
of land is the armory; on the left, and
nearly even with the water, the working
part of the arsenal: on the right
and over hanging the western bank
of the Shenandoah, is Jefferson's Rock.

On the opposite banks of the two
rivers the cliffs are more bold and
striking. That, on the Maryland
side, is supposed to resemble the profile
of Washington, an illusion very
pleasing to those whose minds are not
adapted to relish the beauties of nature.
The two cliffs, of which we
have spoken, form a noble entrance
to the romantic valley which lies beyond,
embosomed among woods and
mountains and winding among the
projections of the latter until its exit
is again guarded by immense rocks,
where a passage, corresponding to
that at Harper's Ferry, is broken
through the Short Hills—a chain parallel
to the Blue Ridge, and connected
with it by spurs which inclose
on every side this dell that contains
so many elements of the picturesque.
The mountains, of considerable height,
are clothed to their summit by forests
of oak and pine, from out the thick
shade of which, project immense
masses of granite, that yet stand the
stern witnesses of some tremendous
convulsion, the traces of which not
even time, that has for thousands of
years been scattering their debris
daily below, has been able to obliterate.
The base of these mountains
presents elevated and very rugged
cliffs, which, projecting into the valley,
break its uniformity, and give a
wilder aspect to the river, that spreads
itself between them.

A greater abundance of water


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would convert this valley into a singularly
wild and beautiful lake, a
mirror worthy of the noble objects it
would reflect. But the character of
the Potomac is the same here as before
its waters are united with those
of the Shenandoah. A channel, too
extended for the stream, presents every
where its rugged bed, interspersed
with thousands of rills and small pools
of water. Yet has this deficient
stream, a sublimity of its own; the
rugged bed is in unison with the
rocks which overhang it, and with
the dark and often blasted pines, which
clothe them; and if, in awful grandeur,
it cannot be compared with the
passage of the Rhone through the
Alps, or in beauty, with some of the
smaller lakes, so abundant in the
northern states of our own country, it
is yet a most highly impressive scene.
Commanding interest from the praise
of one whose praise was celebrity,
Harper's Ferry seems often to have
disappointed foreigners who expected
to find a scene as unique as the Natural
Bridge, and as sublime as the
falls of Niagara.

Those who form such extravagant
expectations will not have them realised,
but the rational admirers of nature
will find abundance to admire in
the beauty, the grandeur, and the simplicity
of the spot.

This subject gives us occasion to
regret, that the many commanding positions,
which our mountains present,
should be so little known. The western
part of Virginia abounds in romantic
scenery, but the traveller may
toil for hours in its immediate vicinity,
plunged in a depth of shade, that excludes
all idea of the beauty by which
he is surrounded; to ascend the mountains
is difficult, and adds but little to
his chance of gratification; the foliage
is nearly as thick there as at their
base; but the necessary local knowledge
would be at the command of all,
if those, who annually make summer
excursions through our country, were
as ardent admirers of nature as they
commonly are of Warm Springs or
other spots, which draw together a
number of half sick, half idle people,
who lounge away the best part of the
year. As an instance, how many
Dr. Syntaxes in search of the picturesque,
of the company at the springs,
or the wonders of Weyer's Cave,
plunge in the interminable shades of
Brown's Gap, which brings so forcibly
to mind the falsehood of Thomson's
lines.

I care not fortune what you me deny,
You cannot bar me from fair nature's grace,
You cannot shut the windows of the sky
Through which Aurora shews her smiling face.

How many unhappy wights perform
this darksome pilgrimage, when
they might, a few miles off, from
Turk's Gap have seen the sun rise
over a landscape, which exhibits the
country, towards tide water, spreading
out in an extent of forest as boundless
and level as the ocean, to the north
and south the long chain of the Blue
Ridge, to the west the well cultivated
valley watered by the Shenandoah,
adorned by detached and picturesque
mountains, and bounded by the hazy
and unbroken line of the North
Mountain.

To return to Harper's Ferry. The
exit of the river at the Short Hills on
the Maryland side is called the Point
of Rocks;
it is here that two rival companies
contended for the exclusive
right to possess a narrow gorge,
which now gives passage at once to a
river, a canal, and a Rail Road. A
handsome wooden bridge, seven hundred
and fifty feet from one abutment
to the other, and with a space between
the piers of more than one hundred
and eighty ft., connects the town with
the Maryland shore; whilst the funds
for a similar structure over the Shenandoah
have already been subscribed.[40]


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The former bridge is simple and displays
the skill of the engineer; it is
sustained by arches formed of three
tiers of planks placed edgeways, and
whose joints give shift to each other,
king posts, fanning from the centre,
unite these planks and sustain a roof,
which, by its diagonal framing, serves
to give stability in a lateral direction.
The bridge is double. Did not the
name of the engineer, by whom this
structure was erected, give sufficient
guarantee for its excellence, the observer
might fear that economy had
been too much consulted in the materials.

The national arsenal at Harper's
Ferry is an object worthy of attention
Eighty or ninety thousand stand of
arms are usually kept there, and as
these are sent off to other depositaries
their place is supplied from the extensive
manufactory adjacent. It is interesting
to observe the facility with
which a weapon, so complicated as
the musket, is produced. A bar of
iron is forged into a rough tube, the
interior of which is formed into a
smooth surface by drills turned by the
power of water. At first, the barrel,
strongly fastened, is moved slowly
forward, whilst the drill, a cylindrical
rod of iron, terminating in a rectangular
bar, ten or twelve inches
long, revolves with rapidity, but without
progressive motion; the barrel is
surrounded by water, which, though
constantly renewed, becomes warm to
the touch. The barrel is not made
cylindrical by a single drill, a succession
is employed, until, in the application
of the finer drills, the barrel,
only fastened in the middle, is left
free to adapt itself to the motion of the
drill.

The outside of the barrel is polished
by enormous grindstones, turning
with great rapidity. These stones
are guarded by thick cheeks of wood,
to which is fixed a covering, that lessens
the danger, should the centrifugal
force, arising from so rapid a motion,
burst the stone asunder, and project
the pieces forward. The barrel
passing through these cheeks, bears
against the stone, and is drawn across
it with a motion resembling that of a
screw.

The stocks are shaped by a machine,
the idea of which seems to
have been borrowed from an admirable
contrivance in the celebrated
Block Machinery of Brunel. The
writer was struck immediately with
the resemblance, and, on inquiry,
found that the inventor, Blanchard,
had previously introduced the use of
Brunel's machinery in this country.

The reader will readily form a
general idea of this machine. Let
him imagine two wheels, eight or ten
inches in diameter, placed one behind
the other, and in the same plane; one
of these has a smooth, round edge,
the other is furnished with steel cutters,
which are parallel to the circumference.
Further let him suppose
two turning lathes, placed side by
side, in the one an iron stock as a
guide or pattern, in the other the
wooden stock to be turned. Now let
him suppose, that, whilst these two
stocks are in a rapid rotatory motion,
the plane wheel of which we have
spoken is made to traverse the whole
length of the iron, and is pressed
against it by a strong spring; this
wheel, it will be remembered, is connected
invariably with that which is
furnished with cutters: if then the latter
be brought into contact with the
wooden stock at the moment when
the first wheel commences its motion
along the pattern, it will perform a
similar journey along the wooden
stock, and only requires, that it should
be kept in a rapid rotatory motion, in
order that it may shape, by its cutters,
this stock to the form of the iron pattern
against which the guiding wheel
is pressed. Some contrivance is requisite
to provide the rotatory motion,
spoken of, in the second wheel, as
this wheel moves longitudinally the


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strap by which it turns, must have a
like motion; to effect this it is passed,
below, round a large cylinder, in lieu
of an ordinary drum wheel, and, being
confined above by the sides of the
drum over which it passes, shifts itself
without difficulty along the cylinder
and remains always vertical.
This machine will shape a musket
stock in about eight seconds.

The limits of this article will not
permit us to describe the operations
by which the minute parts of the muskets
are completed. The whole gives
employment when in full work to
about two hundred and fifty men, and
at such times fourteen hundred muskets
have been finished in a month.
The average cost is about eleven dollars
for each musket, and a good
workman will earn two dollars a day.
About a dozen of the workmen are
from England, chiefly from the Armory
Mills which were worked during
the war near Deptford in Kent.
The muskets are lighter, and in this
respect preferable to the English; the
workmen did not hold the iron, which
is chiefly from Massachusetts, in the
same esteem. The establishment is
governed by a superintendant who
receives fourteen hundred dollars a
year, and conducted by a master armorer
at sixty dollars per month, and
four assistants at forty dollars.

We must not quit this part of the
subject without mentioning Hall's
rifle, which is loaded at the breech,
and of which there is a separate manufactory
here. The barrel is formed
of two portions by being cut asunder
a few inches from the breech. And,
on touching a trigger, placed before
the ordinary one, the lower portion is
raised out of the stock by a spring,
and may be loaded as a pistol. When
pressed down again the parts perfectly
coincide, and the movable part of the
barrel is retained in its place by a
catch.

Much time is undoubtedly saved in
loading a rifle by this contrivance,
and it may obviously be done with
less chance of exposing the rifleman
to a hostile aim. But no inventions
are more uncertain as to ultimate effect
than those in the art of war. The
confusion and violence of warfare forbid
the employment of any but the
simplest weapons; and it may be
doubted whether these divided portions—subject
to violence, to rust, to
the intrusion of foreign substances
between the stock and the lower portion—when
elevated, will, after much
use, coincide with sufficient accuracy
to allow the passage of the ball, even
though no great accuracy is required
for that purpose. An inconvenience
does, however, attend the loading of
rifles, a weapon of great importance
in American warfare, and the expedient
we have described seems the most
simple and therefore the best which
could be devised to remove it".

Lee Town, P. O. 165 ms. from
R. and 71 N. W. by W. of W., situated
in the western end of the county,
30 ms. W. of Harper's Ferry. It
contains several dwelling houses, 1
mercantile store, 1 manufacturing
flour mill, and 1 tavern. Lee Town
derived its name from the celebrated
General Lee who resided here.
Population 54 whites, and 20 coloured.
Total 74.

Middleway or Smithfield, P.
V. 161 ms. from R. and 86 N. W. by
W. of W., situated in the western
part of the Co., 7 ms. S. W. of Charlestown,
and near Opequhan creek.
It contains 63 dwelling houses, a Methodist
and a Presbyterian house of
worship, 2 common schools, 2 taverns,
3 mercantile stores, 2 saddlers, 2
smith shops, 2 boot and shoe factories,
2 tailors, 2 milliners, 1 watch
and clock maker, 2 cabinet makers, 2
tanyards, and 1 saw mill. There are
2 turnpikes lead from this village,—
1 to Harper's Ferry, and the other to
Shepherdstown. Population 500, including
2 attorneys and 3 regular
physicians.


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Shepherdstown, P. O. 184 ms.
from R. and 62 N. W. of W., situated
immediately on the west side of the
Potomac river, in the north western
part of the county. It is a flourishing
village, containing 150 dwelling
houses, 6 mercantile stores, and all
the necessary mechanics for an inland
town. There are 4 merchant mills,
one of which has an overshot wheel
of about 24 feet diameter, and the others
of about 20. There is a small
stream of considerable fall which
runs through the town, immediately
opposite to which is an inlet lock, to
the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal.
Shepherdstown has 3 houses of public
worship, and a population of about
1000.

 
[40]

This work we believe has since been
completed.

KANAWHA.

Kanawha was created by the Legislature in 1789, from a portion of
Greenbrier and Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Wood,—N. E. by
Lewis,—E. by Nicholas,—S. E. by Fayette,—S. and S. W. by Logan,—
W. by Cabell,—and N. W. by Mason and Jackson. Its mean length is 58
miles—mean breadth 36; and area 2,090 square miles; extending in lat.
from 37° 53′ to 38° 53′ N. and in long. from 3° 55′ to 4° 25′ W. of W.
C. Gauly river unites with New river, to form the Great Kanawha, upon
the eastern border of the county. The Kanawha then flows through the
county in a N. W. direction into Mason; receiving in its passage Elk river
from the N. E.,—Coal river from the S. E., and Pocatalico from the
North.—We cannot refrain from giving here a letter from an eminent literary
gentleman of this State to his friend in the lower country, which gives
agraphic description of the magnificent Valley of the Kanawha.

"You have often visited the mountain region of Virginia, and tasted of
her various and unrivalled mineral waters. You have mingled with the
fashionable throng at the White Sulphur,—regaled your palate upon the
fine venison and other dainties of the forest, and bathed in the delicious fountain
of the Warm Springs. You have never, I believe, however, extended
your journey as far West as the Valley of Kanawha. The great state
road which commences at Covington, and secures you a safe passage to
Lewisburg, passing the gigantic Alleghanies at a grade which is almost
level,—pursues its winding yet steady course over ranges of lofty mountains,
and through wild and hitherto unbroken depths of wilderness and
shade. Now and then it courses along the margin of some rocky and
stupendous precipice, often several hundred if not a thousand feet in depth,
—and as the mail coach drawn by four spirited steeds, whirls you along
the perilous cliff,—you feel an involuntary shuddering at the slender barrier
which separates you from eternity. The blue mist which hovers along
the yawning chasm beneath, and is visible through the variegated foilage
which obscures without concealing the view,—impresses the mind with undefinable
images of danger; and indeed it would be well if the terrors which are
sometimes inspired were those of imagination only,—for I have been credibly
informed that in more than one instance, the lives of travellers have
been exposed to imminent peril. At one of those narrow defiles, the spot
was pointed out where the stage with eight passengers and driver rolled
down a steep declivity of fifty feet. Fortunately the nature of the ground
arrested its downward course, and still more fortunately, I had almost said


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miraculously, although the luckless vehicle turned two or three somersets
and was actually shattered into fragments, neither horse or passenger suffered
material injury. Notwithstanding these disasters which occasionally
await the traveller, this important and convenient highway which unites
the east and west, is a noble monument of skill, enterprise and labor. In
its vast utility to the country which it intersects, it may justly be compared
to the introduction of steam navigation on our western waters. Distance
and time are in a great measure overcome, or perceptibly diminished, and
a journey which was once performed with insupportable fatigue and delay,
is now achieved in one fourth of the time, and with comparative ease.
Before reaching the valley of the Kanawha, the traveller is feasted by the
sublime and picturesque scenery from the cliffs of New river, which is one
of the principal tributaries to the Kanawha. One of these cliffs has been
long known by the name of the Hawk's Nest—but more recently called
Marshall's Pillar, in honor of the Venerable Chief Justice who as one of
the State Commissioners in 1812, stood in person upon its fearful brink
and sounded its exact depth to the river margin. Every one has heard of
the far famed falls of Niagara—and yet I doubt if the beholder of that
wonderful cataract ever experienced more of the true sublime, than the
grand and elevating prospect from Marshall's Pillar, is apt to inspire.
Imagine yourself standing upon the projecting point of a perpendicular
rock, 1200 feet from the valley below. Before you, as you look to the east,
the New river is seen at the distance perhaps of several miles, winding or
rather rushing, tumbling and foaming through the towering cliffs which
environ it. Sweeping by the lofty promontory on which you stand, it suddenly
turns its course in a south west direction, and presents in the whole
distance several beautiful cascades, which send to the listening ear the far
off, but lulling sound of their waters. The cliffs themselves, judging by
the horizontal and corresponding strata of rock on either side, seem to have
been originally united, but torn asunder by some strong convulsion of nature,
in order to give free passage to the narrow but angry torrent which
rolls majestically at their feet. The autumnal season gives to this imposing
picture a magnificent and gorgeous drapery of which no man whose
vision has been confined to the lowland scenery has the slightest conception.
On one side a dark outline is defined by the shadow from the opposite
cliffs, which leaving the base of the mountain of a sombre brown, presents
its summits shining with the rich and mellow tints of an October sun.
In gazing from the dizzy height where the spectator is perched amidst
sublime and solitary deserts, it requires but little effort of fancy to portray
the haggard and inspired bard of Gray, standing

"On a rock whose haughty brow
Frowns o'er old Conway's foaming flood."

No hostile Edward it is true, is marching through this wilderness with his
embattled legions, to victory and slaughter; on the contrary, a profound
stillness prevails, which adds interest and solemnity to the scene—a stillness
which is disturbed by nothing save the distant wave which seems, but
seems only to murmur at the base of the cliff. So sublime indeed is its
elevation, that whilst nothing seems easier than to cast a pebble from its
beetling verge into the bed of the stream, the most powerful arm is foiled
in the attempt.

"After feasting on the sublime repasts which nature spreads before the


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eye of the tourist on these romantic cliffs, he is better prepared to enjoy by
contrast his descent into the fertile and lovely vale of the Kanawha. That
beautiful stream is formed by the junction of the Gauley and New rivers,
at the base of the Gauley mountains. A short distance only below the
point where the waters mingle, the ear of the traveller is saluted by the
roar of the Great Falls—a fine cataract of twenty-two feet over a natural
dam of rock which spreads irregularly across the Kanawha. I should
judge from the sketches of the Great Niagara, by artists and picturesque
tourists, that this was its copy in miniature. Certain it is, that on approaching
the cataract which you can easily do, over the vast masses of naked
rock, which rise from the bed of the river—you feel the effect of the spectacle
in all its sublimity. I will not say as Byron said of the cascade of
Velino, that it is "horribly beautiful"—or that

"An Iris sits, midst its infernal surge,
Like hope upon a death bed."

There is nothing which awakens infernal images in the cataract of Kanawha,
but I saw distinctly the rainbow reposing its brilliant arch upon
the white foam of the waters. Whatever disappointment, however, the
limner might experience in his visit to this interesting spot, the epicure
would meet with none at the spacious Hotel which stands opposite the
falls. To all lovers of the finny tribe, it is a perfect paradise. Here are
fish, which if not unknown, are yet untalked of on the borders of our
Atlantic streams. The delicious black perch, the grennel, the blue cat, the
fine flavored buffalo, and a species of sturgeon, all abound in profusion, and
all present their respective claims to preference. If to these luxuries of
the water, be added wild fowl, and forest game, which are found in abundance,
the most fastidious gourmand might desire no higher fruition than
is afforded in this favored region.

For many miles after leaving the falls, the Kanawha Valley is narrow
—winding—and unprepossessing. Its gigantic and various growth is indeed
interesting to the lowland traveller—and the vast masses of rock
which tower in magnificent pride to the very summit of the mountains—
are objects of curiosity and attention. At the same period in autumn, nature
was perceptibly not so far in the "sear and yellow leaf," as in the
more mountainous and elevated region. Her robe was fresher and greener,
but yet there was not wanting that splendid variety and intermixture of
colors which distinguish the western forests. The bright orange or golden
yellow of the linn, the sugar tree and hickory were beautifully contrasted
with the evergreen laurel, and with the dark and mournful hemlock. Now
and then some parasitical creeper could be seen winding its brilliant red
among the branches of a lofty tree of different foliage—and the gay and
graceful sumach would hang out its crimson drapery to delight the beholder.
Unlike the lowland shrub of the same name, the sumach of the west is
admitted into the family of trees; and so I presume it is in England, for
otherwise the lines of Moore would not be intelligible.

In the shade of yon sumach, whose red berry dips
In the gush of the fountain, how sweet to recline.

Lovers unless they belonged to the race of pigmies, could hardly recline
in the shade of one of our dwarfish sumachs in Eastern Virginia.

"It is nearly twenty miles below the falls, before the Kanawha Valley


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widens into something like a plain, and opens its beautiful vista to the eye.
The mountains which inclose it on either side become gradually depressed
into hills—and for the first time the dense dark volumes of smoke which
ascend from the salt furnaces, announce the busy and bustling scene which
enlivens the highway to the village of Charleston. What a scene of animation
indeed, contrasted with the deep solitudes from which the traveller
has but just emerged.—Here he is feasted with a continued succession of
green meadows and cultivated fields teeming with flocks and herds, and
adorned by commodious and even elegant mansions. The chimnies of the
salt manufactories pour forth at short intervals of space their curling masses
of black vapor, whilst swarms of laborers and others connected with these
establishments, are continually passing to and fro,—presenting a pleasing
coup d'œil of incessant activity and industry.—Nature indeed seems to
have been prodigal in her bounties to this interesting region. The contiguous
forests having been almost stripped to supply fuel to the salt furnaces,—the
precious mineral so necessary to human comfort, must have
remained forever useless but for the discovery of inexhaustible beds of coal,
so convenient of access, as to make the cost of procuring it scarcely worth
considering. Sometimes, by suitable platforms and inclined culverts, it is
thrown from the mountain side immediately to the door of the manufactory,
and when more remote from the place of consumption, it is transported
with equal ease in wagons or cars over rail roads constructed for the purpose.

The whole product of the salt district, is estimated at 1,200,000 bushels
annually—and this product must continue to swell with the increasing demand,
and with the employment of additional capital. It is a curious fact,
and worthy of philosophical inquiry, that whilst the salt water is obtained
by boring at a depth of from 3 to 500 feet below the bed of the Kanawha,
it invariably rises to a level with the river. When the latter is swollen by
rains, or the redundant waters of its tributaries,—the saline fluid enclosed
in suitable gums on the shore, ascends like the mercury in its tube,—and
only falls, when the river is restored to its wonted channel. How this mysterious
correspondence is produced, is a problem which remains to be
solved. Theories and speculation, I have heard on the subject, but none
seem to me to be precisely consonant with the principles of science.

Immediately on the road and a short distance from the bank of the river,
the celebrated Burning Spring, attracts the curiosity of the traveller. A
cavity in the earth of a few feet in diameter, presents at its bottom several
small orifices from which an odorous gas, or strong bituminous vapor is
constantly exhaled. When ignited by a lighted candle, which is easily
done, the whole becomes a sheet of flame, and is only extinguished by the
plentiful application of water. Filling the cavity with water previously to
ignition, does not diminish the brightness or fierceness of the blaze. Inflammable
gasses undoubtedly abound in many portions of the valley. An
anecdote illustrating the fact, was frequently related in my hearing, which
I cannot forbear to repeat. A very respectable gentleman somewhat eccentric
and a little profane, had been boring for salt to the depth of 600 feet,
when his friends endeavored to dissuade him from the costly experiment
"Salt I will have" he exclaimed, "if I bore for it to the infernal regions!"
Accordingly he pressed on in pursuit of his object—with renewed perseverance
and ardor—and his boring apparatus having penetrated one of
those subterraneous recesses, where nature generates her mysterious and


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terrific agents—a volume of flame suddenly burst through the orifice, and
ascending far above the earth's surface, spread terror and amazement in
the neighborhood. The less enlightened and superstitious, of course,
fancied that the profane gentleman's threats had been really carried into
execution, and that the contents of the awful and undefinable pit had been
actually disgorged upon mother earth.

"This charming country is not only rich in beautiful and picturesque
scenes, but abounds in objects interesting to the naturalist and antiquarian.
Besides its inexhaustible treasures of salt and coal, a quarry of fine marble
has been recently found on the Elk river, and I doubt not that discoveries
equally valuable would reward the diligent explorer. Specimens of slate
stone, and other formations with impressions of vegetable remains are
common, and a gentleman of science and distinction, informed me that
coral had been found deeply imbedded in rock. Among the curiosities,
may be mentioned, the Callico and Pictured rocks; the former of which
represents a series of beautiful and uniform figures, inscribed by some wonderful
process of nature, and the latter which is evidently a work of art,
exhibits a variety of rude sketches of birds, fishes and beasts—generally
supposed to be specimens of aboriginal sculpture.

"There is, as I am informed, some miles from the bank of the Kanawha,
a curious petrified tree, and the whole country is full of Indian fortifications
and mounds. From one of these ancient sepulchres an intelligent gentleman
stated to the writer, that a human skeleton was taken not many years
since, probably the remains of some distinguished chief, whose exploits in
battle or the chase had won the admiration of his tribe.

"Indeed there is no department of natural history which might not be
enriched by valuable acquisitions from this and almost every other portion
of Western Virginia. The development of its boundless mineral wealth
would not only extend the borders of science, but materially subserve the
useful arts and the interests of commerce. Let channels of inter-communication
with the east be opened and multiplied by a liberal system of improvement—let
a geological survey be authorized by the Legislature, in
imitation of the wise policy of Pennsylvania and Maryland—and the patriot
will not yet despair of beholding this ancient and venerable State regaining
her lost rank in the confederacy.

"In enjoying the pleasures and advantages of safe transportation along
the great State road, which traverses this section, there is a spectacle often
presented, which awakens a melancholy train of reflections. I allude to
the number of emigrants, who allured by the hope, sometimes deceptive, of
improving their condition, are bending their toilsome march to the far west.
Imagination becomes busy in conjuring up the broken ties of early association,
of kindred and country—and we read in the sorrowful visages of
some of these wretched fugitives, tales of mental and bodily suffering,
which no language could express. It is true, that some of these numberless
caravans present the exterior of comfort and even happiness, but for
the most part it is evidently the last struggle of despairing poverty, to
escape from the hardships of its lot. Whilst the philanthropist shudders
at such scenes of wretchedness, the politician must mourn over the unceasing
drain to population, as well as the causes which produce it. I trust, at
least, if the wave of emigration must continue to flow westwardly, that the
time will shortly come, when the forests and mountains of our own Commonwealth,


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will present sufficient attractions to break its force, it does
not entirely arrest it."

Population in 1820, 7,000—1830, 9,326. It belongs to the 19th judicial
circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,520 23—in 1834 on
on lots, $180 34—land, $808 87—1197 slaves, $294 75—2197 horses
$131 82—9 studs, $89 00—22 coaches, $51 00—22 carryalls, $22 00
—10 gigs, $6 85. Total, $1,585 13. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $814 72—in 1833, $752 88.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Burning Spring. This natural
curiosity is situated in the low grounds
of the Great Kanawha river, 7 ms.
above the mouth of Elk river, and
67 above that of the Kanawha. The
spring is a cavity in the earth of the
capacity of 30 or 40 gallons, from
which issues constantly a bituminous
wapor in so strong a current as to
give to the sand about its orifice the
motion which it has in a boiling
spring. On presenting a lighted
candle or torch within 18 inches of
the hole, it flames up in a column of
18 inches in diameter, and four or
five feet in height, which sometimes
burns out within 20 minutes, and at
other times has been known to continue
three days, and then has been
left still burning. The flame is unsteady,
of the density of that of burning
spirits, and smells like burning
pit coal. Water sometimes collects
in the bason which is remarkably
cold, and is kept in ebullition by the
vapor issuing through it. If the
vapor be fixed in that state, the water
soon becomes so warm that the hand
cannot bear it. This with the circumjacent
lands was the property of
General Washington and of General
Lewis.

Coalsmouth, P. V. 319 ms. from
R. and 368 from W., situated on the
south side of the Kanawha river, 12
ms. below the town of Charleston,
and at the mouth of Coal river. This
little river is about 100 yards wide at
its mouth, and does not vary this
width for many miles above. It is
a beautiful meandering stream, which
runs through a romantic valley, without
receiving any tributary of any
consequence, from the junction of its
north east and its west Fork, until it
receives Little Coal river from the
south. Much trade is carried on by
the hardy mountaineers who dwell
on the banks of this river, in boats
for the carriage of salt, and saw logs,
which are brought down in times of
freshet, from a distance of an hundred
miles. These boats sell on the
Kanawha for one dollar, to a dollar
and twenty-five cents for each foot in
length, and the logs from a dollar
to one dollar and fifty cents per log.
This money is laid out in goods, with
which the enterprising woodsman returns.
The obstructions in Coal
river prevent its navigation in ordinary
seasons. The lower falls of
Coal river are situated 5 miles above
the mouth,—and 5 miles above these
are the upper falls. These falls, from
the great water power which they
afford at all seasons, will in time become
places of considerable importance.
A few years hence and this
section will become a fine wheat
country. It is rapidly filling up with
industrious, honest and enterprising
people, and soon a plenty of the raw
material will be found for manufactories,
and if a scarcity of produce
should occur by bad crops, the transportation
from Ohio by steam boats,
costs in comparison but little, and can
be brought to any point, not distant
three miles from either of the falls.
From its local advantages and the
tide of immigration, it must in a few


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years become much of a manufacturing
country. On the river Coal is
found a great deal of very fine land,
and the country is not so mountainous,
or the sides so precipitous as to
preclude their cultivation. The
quantity of game has depreciated
considerably within the last 10 years,
which is an evidence of the great increase
of population; however the
industry of the inhabitants furnishes
a sufficient quantity of fine venison,
and other wild game for the table,
and the calculation may be in obtaining
for years a reasonable supply for
home consumption. Some few years
ago the inhabitants made it one of
their sources of traffic, but since the
enterprise of these hardy sens of the
forest has been turned into another
channel, they seldom have time, or
feel disposed to hunt, except to obtain
venison for their own families and
the neighborhood. The river affords
in season the finest fish. The large
black and white perch, the salmon
pike, large cat fish, &c &c. The
delicious soft shell turtle is abundant,
and can be obtained with little trouble,
and is by far superior to the sea
turtle. The shell is cooked and surpasses
the fine green fat turtle, Coal
river is fordable four months in the
year. At Coalsmouth there is a good
tavern, a mercantile store, and 3 private
families; about 1 mile from the
mouth, down the Kenawha, is a large
steam manufacturing mill, a grist
and saw mill, a cooper's, a tailor's
and blacksmith's shops, and 4 private
families. The bottom land about the
mouth of Coal is rich, and in extent
about a half mile wide. The
usual average crop of the farmer is
50 bushels of corn and 25 of wheat
to the acre. The country at this
point has a grand and beautiful appearance,—the
neighborhood is composed
of many refined and wealthy
families,—some few years back the
inhabitants were unrefined, and rude
in their manners, but religion and an
association with families who immigrated
from Eastern Virginia, have
made wonderful change in the morals
of the people. About a half mile
up the river Coal, is a beautiful
covered bridge. This bridge is on
the turnpike road belonging to the
State; below the bridge is a well
graduated road, leading to and from
the ford, which is seldom for four
months in the year more than 12 inches
deep, the water passing over a fine
sandy bottom. At the bridge is a
tavern kept in the best style, a blacksmith
shop, a tailor and carpenter
shop, a house of public worship,
(Methodist,) and 4 private families,
with 2 regular physicians. At this
place the stage passengers going to
and from the west, dine. The post
office is kept here, and four mails arrive
from different points and are
opened at this office—two daily and
two three times a week. A portion
of the land at this place has lately
been laid off in half acre lots, with
a view of establishing a town, and
some of the lots have already been
sold, and many buildings are in progress
of erection. A large manufactory
is about going into operation,
and an extensive and well assorted
mercantile store has lately been established,
and there is every probability
that Coalsmouth in a few years
will become a handsome and flourishing
village, extending from the
bridge to the mouth of Coal river.
The immigration to the west through
this place is very great, which gives
to the farmer an opportunity of disposing
of his surplus produce, his
wheat can at all times be sold at his
door from 62½ to 75 cents per bushel,
and the cash paid. Coal river derives
its name from the quantity of
coal in which it abounds, and that of
the finest quality. The resources of
this neighborhood and county are incalculable,
and to the enterprising
man holds out advantages truly flattering.
The country is remarkably

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healthy,—no local disease is attached
to the neighborhood.

Hansford, P. O. 292 ms. from
R. and 333 S. W. by W. of W.,
situated on the Kanawha turnpike
opposite to the mouth of Paint's
creek,
or as some call it, Yellow
river,
—21 ms. E. of Charleston, and
14 W. of the Falls of the Great Kanawha.
The only houses are a mercantile
store, and a house of entertainment.
There are in the immediate
vicinity 3 miscellaneous stores,
1 Baptist house of worship, and a
temperance society. The principal
pursuits of the inhabitants are agriculture,
and building flat boats to
navigate the Kanawha. These boats
are generally from 60 to 100 feet in
length.

KANAWHA C. H. or Charles
ton,
P. V. and seat of justice, 30
ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 356
from W. This is a beautiful little
village, situated on the north bank of
the Great Kanawha, at the junction
of Elk river, 60 ms. above the junction
of the former with the Ohio and
225 ms. W. of Charlottesville. Its
principal street extends about a mile
on the bank of the Kanawha, and is
terminated by the Elk, which flo
nearly at right angles into the former
stream. Indeed there is something
like enchantment in the contrast of
this flourishing village, with the wildness
and solitude of the same spot,
less than 30 years past. The panther
and wolf, have been driven from their
savage haunts, by the march of civilization
and refinement—and where a
few scattered log huts once arrested
the traveller's eye, he now sees commodious
and elegant buildings, the
abodes of comfort and even of luxury.
The village contains besides the
ordinary county buildings, 125 dwelling
houses, all presenting a neat and
fresh appearance. There are 2
houses of public worship, (1 Presbyterian
and 1 Methodist,) a female
academy, and an infant school, a
Branch of the Bank of Virginia, a
masonic lodge and chapter, a bible
society, a tract, colonization and sunday
school society. There are 13
miscellaneous stores, 3 hotels, 3 smith
shops, and 1 tanyard, 2 steam saw
mills, and one steam merchant mill.
The Kanawha river is here a beautiful
sheet of water, more than 300
yards wide and 20 feet deep at low
water,—navigable for steamboats.
The state turnpike passess through
this town, on which there is a line
of stages from Washington city and
Richmond to Guyandotte, which carries
the mail from these two cities in
four days and a half. Population
about 800 persons; of whom 7 are
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians.
Charleston is remarkable for the liberality
and enterprise of its inhabitants.
The hills adjacent abound with
fine quarries of sandstone for building,
and rich bituminous stone coal,
which is the common fuel.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Summers holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 14th of May and October.

Kanawha Saline or Terra
Salis,
P. O. 308 ms. N. W. of R.,
and 350 N. W. by W. of W. This
is a new and small village situated on
the northwestern side of the Kanawha
river about 6 miles above Charleston,
containing dwelling houses,
3 mercantile stores, a Methodist and
a Presbyterian house of worship, and
1 hotel. The town is directly connected
with the salt trade, and rapidly
improving.—A daily mail arrives
at this place.

Kanawha Salt Works. These
valuable works are situated on the
Kanawha river, commencing near
Charleston, and embracing a distance
of 15 miles above, on each side of
the river. The salt water is obtained
anywhere within that distance, by


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boring or sinking a shaft, from three
to five hundred feet below the bed of
the river, through a solid rock, from
which it is brought to the surface
through the surrounding fresh water,
in copper tubes, and is raised to the
bank of the river by steam engines,
and is thrown into cisterns, whence
it is conveyed to the furnaces. There
are at present about 60 furnaces,
manufacturing about one million two
hundred thousand bushels annually,
and the quantity is only limited by
the demand. The adjacent hills
abound with stone coal of a superior
quality, which lies in horizontal
strata, varying in thickness from 4
to 7 feet. The coal is conveyed from
the mines to the furnace on rail roads.
There has been for the last year a
furnace manufacturing allum salt by
steam, which is said to be equal to
the imported article. At this furnace
100 bushels of this salt are made per
day. Several others are erecting on
the same plan, and will soon be in
operation. The exports of the salt
from these works in 1832, is estimated
as being worth to the proprietors
$250,000. Seldom has it fallen to
the lot of any region of country to
possess such inexhaustible sources of
mineral wealth on the borders of a
fine nevigable river, leading to a region
of country which will one day
be filled with almost boundless multitudes
of people.

Pocotalico, P. O. 318 ms. from
R. and 253 S. W. of W.

Teage's Valley, P. O. 328 ms.
from R. and 376 S. W. of W., situated
in the western part of the county,
20 ms. W. of Charleston.

Walnut Grove, P. O. 330 ms.
from R. and 379 S. W. by W. of W.,
situated in the western part of the
county, on the left bank of the Great
Kanawha river, 25 ms. below Charleston,
and 35 above the confluence of
the Kanawha and Ohio. No town
has yet been laid out at this place,
but a steam saw mill, a mercantile
store, wood yard, &c., concentrate a
good proportion of business. A
steam manufacturing flour mill, and
some other manufactories, are about
going into operation, which with the
advantages that the site derives from
the facility of transportation in the
surrounding country, the abundance
of fine coal and timber in the neighborhood,
and the facilities of the
navigation, will probably place it
among the thriving villages of the
west.

LEE.

Lee Coun was taken from Russell in the year 1792, it is situated
400 hundred miles W. S. W. of Richmond,—bounded N. and W. by the
Cumberland mountains, separating it from the State of Kentucky, S. by
Tennessee, E. by the county of Scott, and N. E. by the county of Russel.
This county is singularly laid out, owing to its lying in Powel's valley,
which is narrow: it is of considerable length and quite narrow,—its extent
from E. to W. is 85 ms., while its width from N. to S. does not exceed
15 ms., and area 800 sq. ms., extending in lat. 36° 30′ to 37° 06′ and in
long. 5° 35′ to 6° 30′ W. of W. C. This county is famous for the richness
of the soil, productiveness of the lands, and largeness of the timber; among
the growth of which is found the sugar maple, ash, buckeye, poplar, black
and white walnut, lynn, black and white oak, maple, elm, cucumber, and
beach; all of which grow very large and tall. The land is of a very black,


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rich soil, well adapted to growing corn, hemp, wheat, rye, oats, Irish potatoes
and timothy.

This county has many fine and excellent springs of water, breaking out
from the base of the mountains, which make their way briskly down the
vallies, which are deep and narrow, and consequently afford fine mill seats.
The principal mountains are, Powell's mountain, Walden's ridge, the Stone
mountain, Little Beach and Big Black. Walden's ridge takes its rise in
the N. E. of this county, and runs S. W. into the State of Tennessee; these
mountains and ridges are all rich on the N. side, while they are extremely
poor on the S. side. The N. sides of the mountains abound with limestone
of very hard quality, while the S. sides are covered with free stone. There
is a leading small ridge, called the Poor Valley Ridge, which is entirely
the reverse of any other in this range of hills and mountains, while the
others are all poor,—on the S. side it is very rich and productive, while
the N. side of this Ridge is very poor. There is a knob called Stocker's
knob in the N. E. part of the county, which is very high, 3 miles long,
and at the E. end is a settlement called the Turkey Cove; and at the W.
end is a another fine settlement called Yacum Station; these are two as fine
settlements as the county affords. There is one other place worthy of notice,
found among the mountains of this county, and that is a very high
peak, called the Butt of Powell's mountain. The mountain here bends precisely
in the form of a horse shoe;—this bend of the mountain forms a most
delightful cove of 1½ miles in width, which is as level as a bowling green,
and as rich as the delta of the Nile, covered thickly with trees of the largest
growth, and the greatest height. "Precisely N. of this high peak called
the butt, the north fork of Clinch river takes its rise, and runs through the
mountain; this gap through which the creek runs, is one of the most picturesque
places in western Virginia. The mountain almost perpendicular
on both sides, and covered with huge masses of craggy rocks, that look as
though they would tumble from their sandy foundations, and fill the deep
valley below, presents to the traveller one of the most striking displays of
omnipotent power." On the E. side of this water course, we have one of
the most noted salt-petre caves ever known; from which, there has been an
immense quantity of salt-petre made. This cave is situated very near the
top of Powel's mountain, and may be easily discovered from the valley,
where you may see hillocks of the earth, from which the salt-petre has been
extracted. There are also large beds of fine iron ore, from which some
years ago, there was a small quantity of fine iron made at the iron works,
on the north fork of Clinch river, which works has since gone into ruins.
There are also other beds of fine iron ore in this county, lying on Martin's
creek, from which, there is at this time a quantity of iron made. There are
now two forges situated on Martin's creek, which make excellent iron: also
two on Indian creek, with one furnace for making castings. The principal
water courses, are Powell's river, Walden's creek, Martin's creek, Indian
creek and Trading creek. On the waters of this creek, the main road,
ascends a considerable ridge, over which there has been a road of very ancient
date, as there are at this time, growing in the middle of the bed of the
road, trees of the larges growth. The ascension of the ridge by the way of
this road, shows that the greatest judgment and care, had been taken in locating
and constructing the road. It is supposed that it has been ages since
this road was constructed, as the earliest settlers of the county, found it as
above described. There are in the country of Lee, 4 Methodist churches, 3


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Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. There are 13 Methodist ministers, 6 Baptist
ministers regularly ordained, and 2 physicians. The staple of this county
is stock, such as beef, pork and horses,—the pork is carried to eastern Virginia,
the beef to Pennsylvania and Maryland, and the horses to Virginia,
or North Carolina. The merchandize of every description is purchased in
Baltimore, or Philadelphia. The people of this county make their own
sugar and Molasses, from the sugar tree, which grows in great abundance,
on the N. sides of all the mountains and creek bottoms. The tree is of a
rough, short bark, spreading top and straight body, some quite white, and
others very black. Those which are black have the sweetest water, and are
very apt to be pecked very much by a bird of small size, called the sap sucker.
The trees are chopped with a small axe, and bored with a small augur
or gimblet, and a tube placed in the orifice, through which the water is carried
into a small trough, placed for the purpose of catching the water.
The tree which is thought to afford a common quantity of water, will, if
there is a hard freeze, and a warm day after it, afford 8 gallons of water,
which will always make one pound of sugar, if carefully boiled down. The
most common mode of boiling is to place the boilers in a small furnace; but
this method requires more attention, to prevent the boilers from burning the
sugar. There is in Lee county, probably more tree sugar made, than in
any other county in the S. W. there being more fine sugar orchards. The
precise quantity is not known, but supposed between 5 and 6000 pounds, with
a quantity of molasses, which, if put up in vessels will keep and improve
from age. Population of Lee in 1830, 4,256—1820, 6,461. It belongs to
the fifteenth judicial circuit, and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $715 12
—in 1834 on lots, $18 92—on land, $352 14—327 slaves, $81 75—
2330 horses, $139 80—10 studs, $48 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—4 gigs,
$3 00. Total $650 61. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,
$404 34—in 1833, $284 43.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

JONESVILLE, P. V. and Seat
of Justice,
392 ms. S. W. by W. of
R. and 468 W. S. W. of W. in lat. 36°
40′ and long. 6° 02′ W. of W. C.,
situated N. of Powell's river, on one
of its branches, 65 ms. N. E. of
Knoxville, Tenn. and 60 S. E. by E.
of Barboursville, Kty. The site on
which this village is located is very
uneven; resembling in this respect
the general surface of the county. It
was laid off in the year 1793. It
contains besides the ordinary county
buildings, which are handsome, 40
dwelling houses, 1 house of public
worship, recently erected and free for
all denaminations, 1 common school,
4 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern, 2
tanners and curriers, 3 saddlers, 1
boot and shoe factory, 3 tailors, 4
smith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon maker,
and several house carpenters.
Population 159 whites; of whom 1 is
a resident attorney, and 1 a regular
physician,—colored 37. Total 196.

This village stands upon a beautiful
eminence, between the Stone mountain
and Walden's ridge, in Powell's
valley, through which flows Powell's
river. The scenery which surrounds
it, though wild is very pleasing, and
especially so when the mountains on
both sides are covered with rich verdure.
The variety of hills presented
by the mighty growth of forest trees
rising in succession one above the
other on all sides, with here and
there an old grey rock jutting from
the foliage, or a bank of moss peeping
through, and nearly the whole earth


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beneath covered with luxuriant herbs
and flowers, present a scene of rich
luxuriant beauty, of which a lowlander,
in his level unbroken plains cannot
entertain a conception.

County Courts are held on the 3rd
Monday
in every month. Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Estill holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 1st Monday in April and
September.

Rose Hill, P. V. 412 ms. from
R. and 488 from W., situated 20 ms.
W. of Jonesville, on the road leading
from the Crab Orchard and Wilderness,
in Kty. by the Cumberland Gap,
in Tenn. through Powell's valley to
Abingdon, 16 ms. E. of the Gap, and
95 W. of Abingdon.

LEWIS.

Lewis was established by act of Assembly in 1816, and formed from a portion
of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Harrison,—E. by Randolph,
S. and S. W. by Kanawha,—S. by Nicholas and W. and N. W. by Wood.
Its mean length is 54 ms.; mean breadth 32½; and area 1,754 sq. ms. extending
in lat. from 38° 38′ to 39° 12′ N. and in long. from 3° to 4° 17′ W. of W.
C. The surface of this county is composed of three inclined plains,—the
southern portion inclining westward in the direction of the Little Kanawha,
which flows through the county diagonally, from its southeastern to its
southwestern angles,—the northeastern portion inclines northward towards
the West Fork of the Monongahela river, and Tygart's Valley river, and
the northwestern portion inclines to the N. W. in the direction of Middle
Island creek. The surface of the county is rocky, hilly, and in some parts
mountainous. Population in 1820, 4,247—in 1830, 6,241. It belongs to
the 18th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $851 37—
in 1834 on lots, $26 59—on land, $431 85—87 slaves, $21 75—2,312
horses, $138 72—15 studs, $71 00. Total $689 91. Expended in eduating
poor children in 1832, 404 34—in 1833, $467 36.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Buchannon, P. V. 266 ms. N. W.
of R. and 266 from W., situated on
Buchannon river, in the eastern part
of the county, 15 ms. from Weston,
25 ms. from Beverly, and 30 from
Clarksburg, county seats of Randolph
and Harrison. Buchannon cannot
be called a village, but rather a small
settlement, having about 330 scattering
dwelling houses, extending along
both sides of the river about 25 miles.
There are in this settlement 4 houses
of public worship, (2 Methodist, 1
Baptist and 1 Presbyterian. No regular
schools kept, except in the three
winter months. There is 1 bible society,
2 tract and 3 temperance societies.
Within the limits mentioned
are 2 mercantile stores, 7 country
mills, 3 wool carding machines, 1 tanyard,
8 or 10 blacksmith shops, and
about the same number of boot and
shoe factories, cabinet makers and
house carpenters, with 2 wagon makers
and various other mechanics.
The principal pursuit of the inhabitants
is agriculture. This is a fine
section of country, and the land tolerably
fertile, producing corn, wheat,
rye, oats, flax, potatoes, &c. Buchannon
river runs nearly a N. course,
and empties into Tygart's Valley river.


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It lies between the Middle Fork
a branch of Tygart's Valley river and
the Monongahela. The state road
passes directly through this settlement.
Population 1,250.

Bull Town, P. O. 296 ms. from
R. and the same distance from W.
situated on the Little Kanawha river,
about 24 ms. S. W. of Weston.
Though called a village it is simply
a post office, and derives its name
from the circumstance of a few families
of Indians having been once settled
on this river (Little Kanawha)
about one mile and a quarter below
this place, whose head man or chief
was called Capt. Bull; and hence the
name of Bull Town was given to
their little village of wigwams, and
the spot on which they lived yet retains
the name, although the Indians
have abandoned it since about the
years 1771-2 or 3. There is now no
vestige left on the spot where once
their little town stood. The first settlement
made at the place by a white
man, was in 1800 or 1801, then 15
or 20 ms. from any other inhabitants.
It is now occupied as a farm by Mr.
John Conrod, his dwelling house being
several hundred yards from it.
The site on which the village stood is
a little eminence projecting from the
spur of a ridge into a spacious rich
bottom, a part of which was cultivated
by the Indians. There is a salt work
established here, on a limited scale,
called the Bull Town Salt Works.
These works manufacture from 15
to 20 bushels of salt per day. This
neighborhood is but thinly settled,
having only 1 country grist and saw
mill at the falls, 2½ ms. above this
place. These falls are about 11 or
12 feet, and form a valuable seat for
iron works, there being an abundance
of iron ore in the immediate vicinity,
lying idle for want of capital and enterprize.
In the vicinity are 2 tanyards.
The mail arrives at this P.
O. once a week.

Collins' Settlement, P. O. 286
ms. from R. and the same distance
from W., situated in the western part
of the county.

French Creek, P. O. 276 ms.
W. of R. and 276 from W. This
creek empties into Buchannan river.
On the banks of this creek is situated
French creek settlement, comprising
about 8 ms. square, containing 66
scattering dwelling houses, occupied
by an industrious and enterprizing
people, who have emigrated from the
New England States within the last
15 years. There are 1 house of public
worship, (Presbyterian) 1 tanyard,
a number of wheelwrights, house carpenters,
cabinet makers and joiners,
and 1 temperance, 1 tract and 1 bible
society. The principal pursuit of
the inhabitants is agriculture. This
settlement is divided into 5 school
districts, where the common branches
of English education are taught 6
months in the year. The state of
education, being far superior to that
which exists in the country adjacent.
Population 400.

Flat Woods, P. O. 304 ms. from
R. and 304 W. of W., situated in the
western part of the county.

Freeman's Creek, P. O. 259 ms.
from R. and 245 W. of W.

Hackersville, P. O. 260 ms.
from R. and 246 W. of W. This is
merely a post office, situated on Hacker's
creek, 7 ms. from Weston, 137
from Clarksburg, 50 from the Ohio
river, and 35 from the Little Kanawha
Salt Works. The neighborhood
is thickly settled. The lands are of
the best quality with extensive tracts
of arable land suitable for meadows,
on which large quantities of cattle are
grazed and raised for market annually.
The surrounding country is hilly,
and very productive,—abounding
with the best of stone coal, and well
timbered with walnut, poplar, sugar
maple, beach and white oak. In the
vicinity are 3 houses of public worship,
2 Methodist and 1 Baptist, 4
miscellaneous stores, 1 tanyard and


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various mechanics, and several mills.

Leading Creek, P. O. equi-distant
267 ms. from R. and W., situated
in the northern part of the county, 18
ms. from Weston. Leading creek is
a small stream which empties into
the Little Kanawha, 112 ms. below
the P. O. On its waters and tributaries
are 40 dwelling houses, 1 Methodist
and 1 Baptist house of worship,
2 common schools and 1 tanyard
Population 240. The principal occupation
of the inhabitants is agriculture.
On the waters of the Little Kanawha,
embraced within this neighborhood,
and supplied from this post
office, are 100 dwelling houses, 5
houses of public worship,—4 of which
are Methodist, 3 common schools, 3
mercantile stores and 1 tanyard.—
Population 500.

Lorentz's Store, P. O. 261 ms.
W. of W. and the same distance from
Richmond.

Lowman, P. O. 291 ms. from R.
and 286 W. of W., situated on the N.
W. boundary of the county, on the
main post road leading from Weston
to Parkersburg, 42 ms. from the former,
and 37 from the latter place, on
Hughes' river, a considerable branch
of the Little Kanawha, which after a
meandering course of more than 100
ms. enters into the Little Kanawha,
about 15 ms. above its confluence
with the Ohio. Hughes' river is
navigable for more than 50 ms. from
its mouth, and sufficiently large for
floating vessels of considerable burthen.
Great quantities of lumber, besides
a number of flat bottomed boats
are carried down this stream to the
Ohio. It abounds with excellent fish.

McWhorter's Mills, P. O. 256
ms. from R. and 242 from W.

WESTON, P. V. and Seat of Justice,
249 ms. from R. and from W., situated
on the West Fork of the Monongahela
river, 70 ms. S. E. of Marietta,
in Ohio. It contains besides the ordinary
county buildings, 30 dwelling
houses, 1 common school, 4 mercantile
stores, 4 manufactories, 1 manufacturing
flour mill, 1 tanyard and 2
saddlers. Population 167 persons; of
whom 5 are resident attorneys and 2
regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 1st
Tuesday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 13th of
April and September, by Judge Duncan.

LOGAN.

Logan was established by act of Assembly in the year 1824, and taken
from a portion of Giles, Kanawha, Tazewell and Cabell. It is bounded N.
by Kanawha,—N. E. by Fayette,—E. by the Great Flat Top mountain,
which separates it from Giles and a part of Tazewell,—S. by Tazewell, W.
by Tug Fork of Sandy river, which separates it from Floyd county, Kentucky,
and N. W. by Cabell. Its mean length is 66 ms.; mean breadth
44⅓; and its area 2,930 sq. ms., extending in lat. from 38° 13′, to 37° 10′
N., and in long. from 3° 50′, to 5° 22′ W. of W. C. This county is principally
watered by Guyandotte and Little Coal rivers and their tributaries;
Guyandotte flowing diagonally from S. E. to N. W. The principal
branches of Little Coal that waters the N. W. border, are Pond, Beach and
Laurel Forks, having their rise in Huffs' mountain,—those watering the
N. E. part of the county, are Clear Fork, Big Fork and Rockcastle creeks,
having their rise in Cherry Pond mountain, which separates Logan from


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Fayette: they empty into the Guyandotte. Elkhorn and Camp creeks
have their rise in the Great Flat Top mountain, and after running a considerable
distance through the county, empty into Tug Fork, which separates
it from Tazewell on the S. W. There are several other creeks of
minor importance. This county is generally mountainous and incapable
of close settlement. The soil however, is rich, and the climate well adapted
to raising sheep; and it will some day be perhaps one of the finest wool
growing counties in the United States. The principal exports are ginsang,
cattle and peltry in considerable quantities. It contained at the last
census 3,681 persons, but since that period a portion has been taken off by
the new county of Fayette. It belongs to the 9th judicial circuit and 10th
district. Tax paid in 1833, $184 95—in 1834, on lots $8 84—on land,
$88 83—63 slaves, $15 75—757 horses $45 52—3 studs, $17 00—1
carryall, $1 00. Total $176 84. No report from school commissioners
in 1832. Expended in 1833, $196 16.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Ballardsville, P. O. 349 ms.
from R. and 390 S. W. by W. of W.
situated on Little Coal river about 20
ms. above the forks. It contains 12
or 15 houses, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist and 1 Baptist,) 2
schools, in which are taught all the
usual branches of English education,
2 mercantile stores, 1 grist and saw
mill; and 1 establishment for clarifying
ginsang, which is one of the staple
commodities of the village and
county. Many flat bottomed boats are
built here, which carry salt from the
works on the Great Kanawha, and
various other mechanical operations
are carried on. The soil of the surrounding
country is fertile, producing
corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax,
sweet and Irish potatoes in abundance.
Population about 100 persons; of
whom 1 is an attorney, and 2 are regular
physicians.

Big Creek, P. O. 338 ms. S. W.
of R. and 396 S. W. by W. of W.,
situated in the S. E. part of the county,
70 ms. S. S. E. of Charleston on
the Great Kanawha river.

LAWNSVILLE, OR LOGAN
C. H. P. V. 324 ms. W. of R. and
383 from W., situated in a fertile bottom
in a bend of the river Guyandotte,
surrounded by mountains abounding
in stone coal and iron ore. This village
was laid off by act of Assembly
in 1827, since which time a handsome
C. H., clerk's office, and jail have
been erected of hewn stone,—also
several dwelling houses, and others
are now being erected. The other
improvements are 2 houses of entertainment,
2 mercantile stores, 1 tanyard,
1 smith shop, 1 tailor shop and
1 boot and shoe makers establishment.
Besides these there are several
house carpenters, and various other
mechanics.

County Courts are held on the 3rd
Monday
in every month.—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Summers holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 6th of May and October.

Loop, P. O. 266 ms. from R. and
320 S. W. by W. of W.

MARSHALL.

Marshall was created at the latter part of the session of the General
Assembly of 1834-5, whilst this work was in the press. It is formed from


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the southern part of Ohio county; bounded N. by Ohio county, E. by
Pennsylvania, S. by Tyler, and W. by the Ohio river. Its precise limits
we have no means of ascertaining. The general description, and its towns,
villages, &c. will be given under the head of Ohio county.

MASON.

Mason was created by Act of Assembly in 1804, and formed from a
portion of Kanawha county. It is bounded N. by Wood,—E. by Kanawha,—S.
by Cabell,—and W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from
Gallia county, in the State of Ohio. Its mean length is 37½ ms.; mean
breadth 24¼; and area 904 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 38° 32′, to 39°
05′ N., and in long. from 4° 22′, to 5° 12′ W. of W. C. The Ohio river
bounds this county for 60 ms., and the Great Kanawha flows through its
southern part in a N. W. direction. The surface is much broken, but
much of the soil is of good quality. Salt water has been found near the
Kanawha by sinking wells. Population in 1820, 4,868—1830, 6,534. It
belongs to the 9th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$814 64—in 1834, on lots, $47 66—land, $466 24—433 slaves, $108 25
—1,917 horses, $11 02—10 studs, $55 00—1 coach, $2 00—5 carryalls,
$5 00. Total $799 17. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,
$283 41—in 1833, $223 45.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Buffalo, P. O. 343 ms. from R.
and 380 from W., situated in the S.
E. part of the county, on the E. bank
of the Kanawha river, about 21 ms.
from its confluence with the Ohio,
and 50 ms. S. E. of Point Pleasant.
It contains several dwelling houses,
1 Methodist house of worship, 1 mercantile
store and 1 warehouse. It is
known as a public landing, and a
place of some trade. There is a patent
ferry established on the river, on
the pendulum and lee board system.
Its situation is pleasant and healthy,
and eligible on several accounts. The
surrounding country is thickly settled,
and the business of the neighborhood
for the distance of 10 or 15 ms.
is done at this place.

Hereford's, P. O. 360 ms. N.
W. by W. of R. and 390 W. of W.

Lane's, P. O. 366 ms. both from
W. and R.

POINT PLEASANT, P. V. and
Seat of Justice, 358 ms. N. W. by
W. of R. and 358 S. W. of W., situated
on the point above the junction
of the Ohio and Great Kanawha rivers,
in lat 38° 50′, and long. 5° 7′
W. of W. C. It contains besides the
ordinary county buildings, 40 dwelling
houses, 1 common school, 6 mercantile
stores, 1 extensive steam manufacturing
flour mill, 1 steam saw
mill, 2 tanyards, 1 saddler, 2 blacksmith
shops, and 2 cabinet makers.
Population 240 persons; of whom 2
are resident attorneys, and 2 regular
physicians.

County Courts are held on the 1st
Monday,
in every month.—Quarterly
in March, June, August and
November.

Judge Summers holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 16th of April, and September.


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MONONGALIA.

Monongalia was established by act of Assembly in the year 1776, and
formed from a portion of the District of West Augusta. It is bounded N.
by Green and Fayette counties of Pa.—E. by Preston,—S. E. by Randolph,—S
by Harrison,—and W. by Tyler. Its mean length is 33½ miles,
mean breadth 21½; and area 721 square miles. It extends in lat. from 39°
17′ to 39° 42′ N. and in long from 2° 39′ to 3° 25′ W. of W. C. The
face of the country is generally mountainous and hilly; one-third of the territory
of the county, lying upon what is called in this country the "Laurel
Hill," it being the last western regular ridge of the Alleghanies; the other
two-thirds, or western part of the county, being intersected by hills and
vallies.

Notwithstanding the mountainousness of the country, the soil is very
fertile; producing good crops of all kinds of grain and vegetables common
to this latitude. And it is remarkably well timbered, both as to variety
and size.

The rivers watering this county, are the Monongahela, Cheat, West Fork
and Tygart's Valley. The Monongahela is formed by the junction (a few
miles below the dividing line between Monongalia and Harrison counties)
of the West Fork and Tygart's Valley rivers. It thence flows in a northern
direction, through the middle of the county; and passes out at the Pennsylvania
line, about two miles above the mouth of Cheat river. It is navigable
from its head, in time of freshets, for flat-boats of the largest size. And
steam-boats have frequently ascended from Pittsburg to Morgantown, ten
miles above the mouth of Cheat. From Pittsburg to Morgantown, the navigation
of this river is very easy for steam and flat-boats, and unobstructed,
except by low water; and is becoming very considerable. From Morgantown
upwards the navigation is more difficult, and can only be effected in
times of freshets. The West Fork, which flows but about three miles
through this county, is a considerable stream, and is navigable for flat-boats
in time of freshets, as high as Clarksburg in Harrison county. The Tygart's
Valley although a considerable stream, is only navigable about ten
miles; it being obstructed by very high falls. It is part of the dividing line
between this county and Harrison, and Randolph. Cheat river has its
source near that of Tygart's Valley; and after flowing a northwestern direction,
through Randolph, Preston and this county, empties into the Monongahela,
two miles below the Pennsylvania line. Although it is a considerable
stream, affording nearly as much water as the Monongahela, it is
only navigable as high as Jackson's Iron Works, a distance of eight or ten
miles.

The principal creeks in this county, are Decker's, Whiteday, Prickett's
and Threefork creeks, which empty into the Monongahela on the east side,
and Dunkard, Indian, Pawpaw and Buffaloe creeks, which empty in one the
west side of said river. They all afford many excellent seats for water power,
several of which are occupied.

The principal exports of this county, are stock, (horses, cattle, hogs and
sheep,) iron, lumber and some flour. There are three forges, and three
furnaces (and another being erected) in this county; which manufacture
very large quantities of iron annually. There is also one nail factory, and
several good merchant flour mills. Jackson's Iron Works, on Cheat river,
are considered the most valuable in Western Virginia, or perhaps in the


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western country. There has lately been a salt-well sunk in this county,
which promises well.

On the road leading from Clarksburg and Beverly, 5 miles from Morgantown,
on the plantation of Henry Hamilton, there is a large flat rock about
150 fect long, and 50 wide, with numerous engravings of animals, well executed—Such
as panthers of full size,—buffaloe tracks,—horse tracks, deer
tracks, turkey tracks, eels, fish, women as large as life, human tracks, otters,
beavers, snakes, crows, eagles, wild cats, foxes, wolves, racoons, opossums,
bears, elks, &c. &c. This is probably one of the most extensive specimens
of the arts of the aborigines, to be found in our country.

The Raven's Rock is also worthy of notice.—It is situated on Boothe's
creek, about 3½ miles south of Morgantown, and half a mile from the entrance
of the creck into the Monongahela river. In this rock there are
some strata of coal and of iron; and except in these strata the whole rock
is perforated like a pigeon box. This rock is 150 feet high, 40 feet thick at
its base and 20 at its top. Population in 1820, 11,060—in 1830, 14,056.
It belongs to the 20th judicial circuit, and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$1,402 33—in 1834, on lots, $130 46—on land, $775 54—184 slaves,
$46 00—5417 horses, $325 02—36 studs, $102 00—3 coaches, $6 00—
5 carryalls, $5 00—3 gigs, $1 50. Total, $1392 52—Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $887 15—in 1833, $870 92.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Barns' Mills, P. O. 296 ms. from
R. and 233 N. W. by W. of W. C.,
situated in the western part of the
county.

Blacksville, P. O. 241 ms. from
R. and 243 N. W. of W., situated 20
miles N. W. of Morgantown, at the
junction of Robert's Run and Dunkard
creek 50 ms. from its mouth.
This creek empties into the Monongahela
river. This village is located
immediately on the line dividing
the states of Virginia and Pennsylvania,
a part of Blacksville being in
the counties of Monongalia, Va. and
a part in Green co Pa. It contains
11 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile
stores, 1 common school, 1 temperance
society, 1 tan yard, 1 saddler,
and 2 blacksmith shops. Dunkard
creek is navigable to this place, and
boat building is carried on to some
extent. The face of the surrounding
country is uneven, but very fertile,
producing wheat, rye, corn, oats and
buckwheat in abundance. Timber
is plenty, of good quality and in great
variety. Population 52, including
physician.

Dunkard Creek, P. O. 247 ms.
N. W. by W. of W. and 245 from
R., situated in the N. W. part of the
county, 22 ms. N. W. by W. of Morgantown.

Granville, P. V. 295 ms. from
R. and 217 N. W. by W. of W.,
situated on Dunkard creek near the
southern border of Green co. Pa.,
and on the W. side of the Monongalia
river, 2 ms. below Morgantown.
It contains 21 dwelling houses, 1
house of public worship free for all
denominations, 1 common school, 3
mercantile stores, 2 taverns, 2 warehouses,
1 saddler, 1 smith shop, 2
cabinet makers, 2 boot and shoe factories,
1 cooper and 1 chair maker.
Population, white males 44, females
56—colored 10—total 110—and 1
resident physician.

King's Ferry, P. O. 217 ms. N.
W. by W. of W. and 289 from R.

Mount Lineus. P. O. 240 ms.
N. W. by W. of W. and 203 from R.


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Middletown, or Polsley's
Mills,
P. O. 294 ms. from R. and
235 N. W. by W. of W. Middletown
was established by act of Assembly
January 19th, 1820. It is
now a flourishing and healthy village,
pleasantly situated on the west bank
of the Monongahela, one and a half
miles below the junction of Tygart's
Valley, and West Fork rivers, where
they unite and form the Monongahela
river, 22 ms. N. of Clarksburg, 18
S. of Morgantown, 90 S. of Pittsburg,
50 S. of Brownsville, Pa., and
52 ms. E. of the mouth of Fishing
creek, and its confluence with the
Ohio river. It contains 30 dwelling
houses, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist and 1 Piesbyterian,) 1
colonization society, 1 tract, 1 temperance,
and 1 humane mission society,
and 1 common school, 4 mercantile
stores, 1 distillery, 2 taverns, 1
pottery, 3 cabinet makers, 1 chair
maker, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon
maker, 1 smith shop, 1 gun smith, 2
boot and shoe factories, 1 saddle and
harness maker, 1 brick maker, 2 hatter's
shops, 2 saw and 2 grist mills.
In the immediate vicinity are 2 carding
and fulling mills, 4 saw mills,
and 2 manufacturing flour mills.
The face of the country is somewhat
hilly, in parts very much broken.
The soil is generally of a rich loamy
clay, producing all the staples common
in the middle and northern
states—well adapted to grazing and
raising of cattle, horses, hogs, &c.,
large numbers of which are raised
for the eastern markets. This section
of country holds out innumerable
advantages for the establishment
of manufactories. The forests abound
with the finest timber, and the earth
is stored with Iron ore, and the best
stone coal. Large quantities of the
latter are shipped from this place for
the Pittsburg and Cincinnati market,
and frequently to New Orleans
Population 200 persons, of whom 2
are physicians.

MORGANTOWN, P. V. and
seat of justice, 293 ms. from R. and
215 N. W. by W. of W. in lat. 39°
40′ N. and long 2° 50′ W. of W.
C., situated on an elevated level, on
the right bank of the Monongahela,
35 miles below and N. N. E. of
Clarksburg, and about 60 south of
Pittsburg, Pa. Morgantown is a
flourishing and wealthy village, holding
out incalculable advantages to the
manufacturer and mechanic. Its
healthy situation on the bank of the
Monongahela river,—the various
productions of the country by which
it is surrounded,—the inexhaustible
coal mines which abound in almost
every hill, and the rich and innumerable
iron banks which are everywhere
to be found in this vicinity are
perhaps not to be surpassed in Western
Virginia. Besides the ordinary
county buildings, it contains 120
dwelling houses, 2 houses of public
worship, (1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,)
and 1 female academy called
the "Monongalia Academy," comprising
2 departments—Classical and
Preparatory. Its standing fund at
interest is $10,000,[41] and it averages
40 pupils,—size of building 70 feet
front, 40 feet deep, 2½ stories high, a
handsome and spacious brick build-


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ing, pleasantly situated;—1 private
school (female,) in which are taught
the languages, painting, drawing, &c.,
2 temperance societies, (1 male and 1
female,) 1 sunday school, 1 bible and
1 colonization society, 1 poor asylum,
7 mercantile stores, 1 apothecary
shop, 2 houses of entertainment, 2
manufacturing flour mills, 1 fulling
and dying establishment, 1 windmill
manufactory, and 1 printing office
from which is issued a weekly paper,
2 tan yards, 2 saddlers, 4 boot and
shoe factories, 3 wheelwrights, and
chair makers, 5 cabinet makers, 1
copper and tin plate worker, 1 red
and stone ware manufactory, 4 tailor
shops, 3 hat manufactories, 2 gun
smiths, 1 wagon maker, 3 smith
shops, and 1 plough manufactory.
The United States mail passes thro'
this village 3 times a week. Population
650 persons; of whom four are
resident attorneys, and three regular
physicians. The Monongahela river
is navigable for small steam boats,
(and sometimes those of a larger size)
for six months in the year to this
place; and if the contemplated improvement
goes into operation of
cleansing the river, and establishing
slack water navigation, by dams
and locks, this town and county will
at no distant day rank among the
most flourishing and prosperous in
Virginia.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Fry holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 8th of April and September.

Palatine Hill, P. O. 289 ms.
from R. and 211 from W.

Smithfield, a small village 10
miles from Morgantown, on the road
to Clarksburg.

White Day, P. O. 283 ms. from
R. and 205 S. W. by W. of W., situated
in the eastern part of the county;
10 ms. E. of Morgantown.

 
[41]

The Trustees of the Monongalia
Academy were incorporated by the legislature
in 1806. In 1827 or 8 the legislature
passed an act authorising said trustees
to raise $10,000 by lottery for the
benefit of this Academy. This sum was
raised, and about one-half of it expended
in building a large and commodious brick
building. The balance was put out at interest
for the benefit of the academy. In
1830 the Legislature passed another act,
allowing the trustees to raise $20,000 more
by lottery for the same purpose. The
scheme has been sold, and it is expected
the whole amount of the above sum of
$20,000 will be raised in a few years;
which added to the balance left of the
first lottery, will make an endowment
sufficient to render the Monongalia
Academy a free school. It is now one of
the cheapest and best conducted seminaries
of the kind in the United States.

MONROE.

Monroe was created by act of Assembly in the year. 1799, from a portion
of Greenbrier. It is bounded N. by Greenbrier,—N. E. by Alleghany,—E.
by Bottetourt,—S. by Giles, and W. by New river, which on that
side separates it from Giles. Its mean length is 31 ms.; mean breadth
18½; and area 614 sq ms., extending from 37° 22′, to 37° 45′ N. lat, and
in long from 3° 16′, to 3° 54′ W. of W. C. The general declivity of this
county is westward from the summit of the Alleghany mountain. Greenbrier
river crosses the northwestern angle of the county, and unites with
New river to form the Great Kanawha, at the point at which Giles, Logan,
Greenbrier and Monroe all meet. The mouth of Greenbrier river
has been found by actual admeasurement, to be 1,333 ft above the level of
the ocean, and the county of Monroe being still higher and declining to
this point, is probably from 1,400, to 1,700 or 1,800 ft. above the ocean.
Population in 1820, 6,620, 1830, 7,798. It belongs to the 16th judicial
circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,123 94—in 1834, on lots,
$56 85—land. $601 30—424 slaves, $106 00—3,640 horses, $218 40—
21 studs, $173 00—11 coaches, $29 50—15 carryalls, $15 00—7 gigs,
$3 60. Total $1,280 69. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,
$395 40—in 1833, $232 24.


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TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Gwinn's Mill, P. O. 222 ms. from
R. and 277 S. W. by W. of W.

New River, P. O. 237 ms. from
R. and 296 S. W. by W. of W., situated
in the western part of the county,
26 ms. westward of Union, the County
Seat,
on the margin of New river,
10 ms. above the mouth of Greenbrier
river, and 5 below Indian creek, on
the main post road leading from Giles'
C. H. to Kanawha Salt Works.—
Though called a village it is simply
a post office. The face of the surrounding
country is mountainous, the
bottoms are narrow, but very fertile,
producing in abundance, wheat, rye,
Indian corn, oats, hemp, flax and
garden stuffs. The principal staples
are peltry, hemp and Indian corn for
the latter a ready market is found at
all seasons at the Red Sulphur
Springs, distant 10 ms. Emigration
to this neighborhood within the last
few years, has been considerable.

Peterstown, P. O. 249 ms. from
R. and 294 S. W. by W. of W. This
village was settled, some 40 years
since by Christian Peters, from whom
it derives its name, and established as
a town by act of Assembly in January
4th, 1804. It is situated on a
stream called Rich creek, which takes
its rise in Peters' mountain, about 7
ms. above, and passing through the
town, discharges its waters, 2 ms. below
into New river, at the head of
the Great Kanawha, affording one of
the most advantageous sites for water
power in western Virginia. It contains
20 neat dwelling houses, 1 common
school, 1 saw mill, 1 grist mill,
and a wool carding machine, 1 mercantile
store, 3 tanyards, 1 saddler, 1
blacksmith, 1 gun smith, 1 tailor and
1 wagon maker. Surrounded by a
wild and romantic country, abounding
with every description of game; the
pursuit of which, constitutes the principal
sport of the inhabitants.

Red Sulphur Springs, P. V. 240
ms. from R. and 282 from W.

These celebrated waters are situated
in lat. 37° 30′ 25″ N., long. 3° 14′
50″ W. from Washington. They are
38 ms. from the White Sulphur, the
same distance from the Sweet Springs,
and 16 ms. from the Salt Sulphur.
The valley in which they rise is
formed by two mountains, running
from N. E. to S. W. They receive
their name from a deposite of a rich
crimson color. This deposite rests on
another of white, and is itself of a
gelatinous consistence. The water
issues from various fissures, in a stratum
of soft slate stone, within a space
of about 24 by 8 ft. Heretofore they
were but partially collected, three-fourths
having been permitted to
waste; but the present proprietor having,
in the autumn of 1833, opened
the native stone, and obtained a vast
increase in the quantity, has collected
them in two fountains of white marble.
The temperature of the water
is preceisely 54 deg. of Fahr.; it is
peculiarly pleasant, though so strongly
impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen.
Hundreds of persons now
living can bear testimony to its extraordinary
effects in the cure of pulmonary
disease it is therefore superfluous
to offer farther evidence of its value
in checking that frightful enemy
of mankind. We may refer the reader
to the work of Dr. Bell on baths
and mineral waters, and to a pamphlet
lately published on "Consumption
and the Red Sulphur waters," by
Dr. Huntt, a distinguished physician
of Washington City. Invalids are
earnestly recommended to read this
last little work.[42] It remains that we


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should notice its effects in other diseases,
and here we must express our
astonishment, that physicians have
turned to so little account the knowledge
of its powers in pulmonary complaints,
and in the reduction of arterial
action. There can be little doubt
that the remarkable influence it exerts
in pulmonary complaints is mainly
dependant on its sedative quality, and
it seems to us strange how it has been
overlooked by medical men, that so
important a curative principle, could
not have been limited to one disease.

The writer hazards the opinion
that it will be found no less efficicacious,
in calming nervous irritability,
than in reducing arterial action. He
has experienced this effect in his own
person, and has witnessed it in others.
One of the most remarkable cases of
Neuralgia we have ever witnessed
was that of Henry Brown, esq. of
Lynchburg. He had been afflicted
many years in an extraordinary degree,
had visited Europe, consulted
the most eminent physicians, tried all
the other mineral waters in this region,
but with little benefit. Last
August he visitted these Springs, and
was so much pleased with their effects,
that he remained until the 1st of
January.

He regretted not having visited the
Red Sulphur some years sooner, and
believed, if he had, that in all probability,
he would have been entirely
restored to health.

That these waters are most singularly
efficacious in uterine diseases,
and in restoring the health of delicate
females is a fact too well established,
to admit of controversy, and one which
we deem it peculiarly important
should be known, as these are probably
the only mineral waters in Virginia
that are suited to such cases.

The writer is of opinion, that the
tonic property of these waters is consequent
on their sedative property.—
They do not belong to the ordinary
class of tonics; they do indeed, invigorate
the stomach in a remarkable
manner—a fact which is clearly proved
by the rapid increase of weight,
many persons gaining from one to two
pounds a day for several successive
days; but whilst they effect this, they
are most usually producing one or
two evacuations a day, and acting freely
on the kidneys and skin. From
what has been said, it may be perceived
that we believe the water to be
directly sedative, indirectly tonic, alterative,
diuretic
and diaphoretic.

It has been found efficacious in all
forms of consumption, scrofula, jaundice
and other bilious affections, chronic
dysentery and diarrhea, dyspepsia,
diseases of the uterus, chronic
rheumatism and gout, dropsy, gravel,
neuralgia, tremor, syphilis, scurvy,
crysipetas, tetter, ring-worm and itch;
and it has long been celebrated as a
vermifuge. That there are many
other diseases, to which its medicinal
properties are applicable, there can be
little doubt, and we can state one fact
highly important, which is, that we
have never known it to do a positive
injury. If the patient has gone away
in a worse condition, it is because the
disease had progressed so far as to be
incurable, or the failure may be clearly
traced to some imprudence on his
own part. It is a lamentable fact that
many of the persons who visit the
Virginia Mineral Springs are altogether
ignorant of their properties,
and consequently are tempted to make
experiments on themselves. Some


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think that the greatest good is to be
derived from the greatest quantity,
and therefore use them immoderately.
Others think that, as charity hides a
multitude of sins; so the water justifies
a multitude of indulgencies. They
entirely lose sight of the object of
which they were in pursuit, after
having made some progress towards
its attainment; and if, after indulging
their appetites, or being guilty of
some other imprudence, they relapse
to their former condition, they immediately
blame the water. The writer
has had some experience in the use of
the Red Sulphur water, and does not
hesitate to say, that in his opinion, its
efficacy is impeded by all stimulants.
Ardent spirits, strong coffee, strong
tea, meat diet, especially at night,
should be avoided. The patient
should live on a strictly vegetable
diet. Milk, maple molasses, cold
bread, buckwheat cakes, rice, rye
mush, bread-pudding, stewed peaches
and various other articles of a similar
character are best suited to the action
of the water. These combined with
its judicious use, moderate exercise,
and a calm mind, afford the best prospect
of a cure. We are of opinion
that most persons should begin with
six or eight tumblers a day, and gradually
increase to twelve. We believe
this quantity to be sufficient, except
where it is necessary to act more
immediately on the kidneys. In this
case we would advise a light supper,
and three tumblers of water after getting
into bed. Walking exercise is
of vast importance in making the water
alterative. We would therefore
strongly recommend early rising, and
as much exercise as can be taken
without fatigue. There is frequently
a fog in the morning, in these mountain
regions, but nothing is to be apprehended
from it. It is in fact, almost
invariably, the forerunner of a
fine day. It is highly important to
invalids to lay aside the use of all medicines
if possible, but more particularly
the use of opium. The latter
interferes very much with the action
of the water. It may be useful at the
commencent, to prepare the system
by two or three blue pills, and when
the water becomes altogether diuretic,
it will be proper to turn it on the bowels,
which may be done by a little epsom
salts or some other simple medicine.
When persons laboring under
diarrhea use the water it sometimes
happens, that the evacuations
become more frequent and acrid, for
two or three days.

Patients in this situation sometimes
think that the water is doing them injury,
when, in fact, it is expelling the
exciting cause. To such persons we
recommend perseverance and caution
in diet. There is a singular effect
produced by this water which we
have never known produced by any
other mineral water. About the 10th
day, usually, but sometimes much
earlier, the patient is taken with a
sensation of fullness in the head, he
feels indolent and sleepy, and we
have even known the pulse to get below
the natural standard. We have
never seen this symptom productive
of any injury; on the contrary experience
has proved that it is an unerring
omen of amendment. Whenever
we hear of this symptom we have
strong hopes, that the patient is in a
fair way of recovering his health, if
he will do justice to himself by perseverance
and prudence. Visiters to
these waters frequently expect miracles.
They suppose that chronic diseases
of several years standing should
be eradicated in a few days. We
have, indeed, sometimes seen wonderful
changes take place in a few days,
but if a man laboring under an obstinate
disease desire permanent benefit,
he must give the water time to expel
from his system every vestige of the
exciting cause.

Improvements

The proprietor of this property
came into possession on the 1st of


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October, 1832. He has ever since
been busily engaged in erecting
buildings and making other improvements
for the accommodation of visitors.
In addition to the spacious hotel
erected last year, he is now erecting
a range of one story buildings
198 by 24 ft., and a two story building
with a double portico, 112 by 30
ft. All the old cabins will be fitted
up in a more comfortable manner
Cold and warm baths will be provided.
Extensive stables and carriage
houses are erected and every thing
liberally provided which can promote
the comfort of the guests. The accommodation
will be ample for 250
persons. The establishment is conducted
by Major Wm Vass. A tri-weekly
line of stages is now running
through this place to Newbern in
Montgomery county, where it connects
with the southwestern line.
The roads in this neighborhood are
greatly improved, and two companies
are incorporated to make a turnpike
road from the White Sulphur, to this
place, by way of the Salt Sulphur.
It is expected that the mail will arrive
here daily, next season, in stages.

Red Sulphur Seminary—This Institution
was opened on the 15th
April last. The studies at present
pursued are the Ancient Languages
and Mathematics. The number of
scholars is limited to thirty. When
that number is engaged a teacher of
Modern Languages will be employed.
The advantages possessed by this
Institution will readily suggest themselves
to the minds of those who have
boys to educate. It has the undivided
attention of Wm Buike as principal,
and James Macauly as assistant.

Salt Sulphur Springs, P. O.
216 ms. from R. and 270 from W.
The mineral waters known by the
name of the Salt Sulphur Springs,
rise in Western Virginia, in about
37½° N lat. and 5° long W. of Philadelphia—are
distant 25 miles from
the White Sulphur, 22 from the Sweet
Springs, 16 from the Red Sulphur,
and 60 from the Hot and Warm
Springs—It is generally acknowledged,
that this quarter of the country
has its full share of medicinal waters,
and in greater variety than any other
country of the same extent. The climate,
too, during the warmer months,
is the best in North America. The
thermometer in the months of June,
July and August, ranges in the day
time from 65° to 80°, and the nights
are so refreshingly cool as to permit
the delicate to sleep under one, two
and three blankets. To judge from
one's feelings, the barometer would
stand very low in this favored country,
and show an uncommonly light air,
but they are scarce in this portion of
the state, and there happens to be none
at the Salt Sulphur Springs at this
time. Here, under the blessings of
providence, "the blind, the lame and
the halt" may venture to hope for relief.
The fine, refreshing climate, the
cheerful company, passing and repassing
from spring to spring—and such
a variety of medicinal waters, as the
world no where else affords—added
to the novelty of mountain scenery, it
seems to afford sufficient inducement
to entice both the young and old,—
the robust, to seek new pleasures, and
the infirm man, bowed down by disease,
and weary of life, to alleviate
his sufferings, and endeavor to repair
his shattered constitution. The contrast
between winter and summer in
this region, is, as may be supposed,
very great. During the cold months,
as the country is thinly inbabited, all
appears desolate and dreary—the hills
are covered with snow, and the streams
with ice—as soon, though, as the season
well justifies it, the prospect becomes
more inviting—About the latter
part of May and the first of June,
the poor victims of disease, from north
and south, east and west, are seen in
these places to try the healing powers
of these natural medicines. Soomafter,


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the throng is much increased by
daily arrivals of gay and fashionable
people, looking for amusement or a
more genial summer climate than the
one they reside in. This time of animation
continues until the middle of
September, when the visitors mostly
leave for their homes.—A few, however,
frequently remain much later—
these, though, are real sufferers, who
seem unwilling to leave as long as
there is any thing to hope for. There
are two fountains at the Salt Sulphur,
each giving out a very different water.—The
first one used is distinguished
as the Salt Sulphur, and is ornamented
with an appropriate building
resting on twelve large pillars.—The
other spring rises about 600 yards up
the ravine, and was discovered about
a year since in an attempt to convey
some sulphur water in pipes to a bath
house.—The laborer in blowing a
rock to afford a way for the pipes,
opened the spring to his great alarm,
as he thought he had struck on the
source of the spring from which he
was conducting the water. The temperature
of the two springs is the same
at all seasons of the year (50° fah'r,)
and both of them contain a portion of
sulphuretted hydrogen.—The Salt
Sulphur, too, has soda, it is believed,
in an uncombined state—This perhaps
is the mineral that acts so happily as
a corrective of acid and the oily eructation
that attends a diseased stomach.
The different waters give a copious
precipitate by first adding to them
salt of iron, and then precipitating it
with carburet of potass—of course the
precipitate has been considered a precipitate
of iron.—If any reliance can be
placed on this indication, the newly
discovered fountain will have the rare
property of reducing a quick pulse as
some few other waters are said to do.
The more active ingredients in the
Salt Sulphur might interfere with those
invalids who would wish to reduce a
quick circulation, but with the newly
discovered spring, no difficulty of the
kind need be apprehended.—On an
examination of the country around
the waters, the limestone will be found
frequently to contain magnesia—the
formations, too, are all secondary.—
From this circumstance, in all probability,
these waters contain magnesia
and the newly discovered mineral called
sodine so generally found in marine
productions.—The proprietors of
these waters have themselves a high
confidence in them and are becoming
more and more solicitous for a correct
analasis of them, which will secure
to them their entire value and nothing
more.

This spring is celebrated among all
the visiters to the springs for the excellence
of the accommodations, and
the polite and obliging dispositions of
the proprietors. These buildings are
very extensive, and still increasing—
in the season of 1835, they will probably
be able to accommodate 300
persons.

Sweet Springs, P. O. 204 ms.
W. of R. and 263 S. W. by W. of
W. This most ancient of any of the
watering places in Va., is situated in
the county of Monroe, in a fertile
valley of the same name. They are
distant 29 ms. from Fincastle, 22 from
the Salt Sulphur, 37 from the Red,
and 18 from the White Sulphur
Springs. The spring, which is so
copious, as to turn a mill at the distance
of 200 yards from the source,
rises at the lower end of a small hollow
or valley, from which the ground
gradually swells on either side. The
houses and cabins, of which a large
number have been erected within a
year or two, are sufficient to accomdate
from 250 to 300 persons. By
far the greater number of these cabins
are built in rows adjoining each
other, though some are delightfully
situated among the groves of oak
trees. There are two perennial rivulets
from the mountains, meandering
through the dale, which notonly adds
materially to the comfort of the visiters


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and the cleanliness of the place,
but refreshes, enlivens and beautifies
the surrounding prospect. Nature
indeed has not been sparing in embellishing
with her choicest beauties
this enchanting spot. Every object
that can gratify the eye or please the
fancy is here pourtrayed in its brightest
colors. The wild scenery of the
mountains with the gentle landscapes,
the shady groves and arbors, carelessly
scattered over this delightful
scene, invite the young, and the gay,
and the admirers of nature to contemplate
her under these charming
and picturesque aspects.

The spirit of public improvement
which has recently so diffused itself
among the people of Western Virginia,
has greatly facilitated the
means of access and conveyance to
the different watering places. There
is a daily line of stages in the summer
running from Fincastle to the Sweet
Springs and also from the Salt and
White Sulphur. The fine roads, delightful
climate and beautiful scenery
which is here met with, is a sufficient
inducement aside from other considerations,
to the low landers for an annual
ramble to the mountains.

The following description of the
medicinal properties of the Sweet
Spring waters is taken from Dr. Bell
on Baths and Mineral waters. "The
water of the spring rises into a large
cylindrical reservoir, from opposite
sides of which it flows out by small
pipes: one conveying water to the
bath for the men, the other to that for
the ladies. The men's bath is of a
quadrangular form surrounded by a
wall, and open at the top, it is of tolerable
extent and clear, the bottom
being of gravel and the water constantly
flowing in and as constantly
passing out, after it reaches a certain
height. The temperature of the
Spring 73° fahr., the same as that
which in England, by a strange blunder,
is called Bristol Hot Wells
There is a considerable resemblance
between the two in other respects as
well in the abundant evolution of
carbonic acid gas as in the earthy and
saline matters held in solution. In
the Virginia Spring however iron has
been detected, whereas the Bristol
Hot Wells has none in its composition.
If we can rely on the rather
crude analysis of Bouelle, one quart
of the water of the Sweet Spring contains—

     
Saline substances in
general, 
12 to 15 grains 
Earthy substances,  18 to 24 grains 
Iron  ½ to 1 grains 

The saline substances are sulphate
of magnesia, muriate of soda, and
muriate of line with a little sulphate
of lime. The earthy substances consisted
of sulphate of lime, a small
portion of carbonates of magnesia
and lime, with a small portion of silicious
earth. The deposition of calcarious
matter from the waters as they
flow down the meadows is so great
as to form a kind of drain of considerable
height and thickness at about
a mile on the road to the White Sulphur
Springs.

Few mineral waters have acquired
such fashionable and well merited
celebrity as the Sweet Springs. The
name is calculated to convey erroneous
impressions of their taste, which
is like a solution of a small quantity
of a calcareous or magnesian carbonate.
The excess of carbonic acid
gives, however, the waters a briskness,
productive of a very different
effect on the palate from what an imperfect
mixture of the earth's would
produce. The first effects of this
water due to its temperature and gaseous
contents, when drunk, are a feeling
of warmth at the stomach, with a
sensation of fulness at the head and
some giddiness. Taken at stated intervals
in moderate quantity, it will
produce a moisture on the skin and
increase the flow of urine. It the
stomach be in a good state it gives
additional appetite and imparts fresh


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vigor to the system. The Sweet
Spring water is serviceable in the varieties
of dyspepsia accompanied by
gastrodynia or spasm, with pains occurring
at irregular intervals and
heart burn—when the extremities are
cold and the skin torpid. In secondary
debility of the digestive canal,
from the exhausting heat of summer,
or in chronic diarrhea and dysentery
without fever or not sustained by hepatic
inflammation, much good will
be produced by the internal use of
these waters.

If much gastric irritation or evident
phlogosis of the liver be present
with a parched skin and other phenomena
of fever: it will be better to
premise one or two small bleedings,
followed by the use of a blue pill at
night, and a tumbler full or two of the
water, to which has been added a teaspoon
full of epsom salts, or twice the
quantity of calcined magnesia early
in the morning.

The harassing cough to which
young persons are occasionally subject
and which often has its origin in
an enfeebled state of the stomach, or
in scrofulous habits from enlargement
of the bronchial glands, as also the
tussis homoralis of old people, will
all be materially benefitted by the use
of these waters. The relief afforded
in such cases as these has usually
given Bristol Hot Wells its reputation
in the cure of pulmonary consumption.

Females of what are termed a
nervous habit of body, who have been
enfeebled by protracted confinement,
or long nursing their children, deprivation
of exercise, and of the enjoyment
of fresh air, and who have
in addition to these causes of dyspepsia,
made excessive use of tea and
coffee, spices and condiments, will
find their strength and health restored
by drinking these waters as well as
bathing in the manner to be soon
mentioned. Irregularity in the uterine
functions will often soon disappear
after the restoration of the digestive
system to its former energy.

As we should have inferred from
the excess of carbonic acid and the
presence of the earthy carbonates in
the water, it is useful in calculous
and nephritic complaints.

In acute rheumatism the waters
with the addition of neutral salts and
the use of the bath will be of service.
But in chronic rheumatism, in which
there have been for a long time stiffness
of the joints and cold skin, our
chief reliance must be placed on the
baths of the Warm and Hot Springs,
by or attenuated with the use of the
sulphur spring water.

The usual times for drinking the
waters of the Sweet Springs are early
in the morning, between 12 and 1
o'clock or some little time before dinner,
and in the evening at tea time.
This later period is an improper one
except the invalid suffer at the time
from spasm of the stomach, or experience
a morbid and gnawing sensation
of hunger.

The use of the bath at the Sweet
Springs is adapted to a large number
of cases, viz., in which there is a
morbid or irregular heat of the surface
with some febrile action. The
first sensation or immersion in the
water is a slight shock, after which
the feeling of coolness is refreshing
and rather agreeable. We have less
hesitation in bathing in water of tepid
temperature, as this almost is, than
in a cold bath. For common hygienii
purposes it is quite safe and reviving,
and in disease may be used with
considerable freedom, but not to the
neglect of those precautions given
when I spoke of the cold bath. A
more efficacious mode of applying
this water to the skin would be by
douche—the stream being directed
on the region in which the irritation
was fixed, and whenever there was
augmented heat and fixed pain as
over the stomach, or liver, or abdomen
generally above the pubis or on


400

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the loins and sacrum, also to the
joints when the violence of inflammation
has not yet subsided nor passed
entirely into the chronic state. If
the irritation of the stomach forbids
the drinking of the water, douching
of the epigastrium would form a good
preparative for its use in this way.
Lumbago with some evening fever
chloroies or floar albus, with heat
and pain at the loins, would all be
benefitted by douching this part.

The freedom and advantage with
which the bath at the Sweet Springs
has been used by aged persons, is evidence
of its general safety. The
chief points to be attended to are, that
the skin shall not be moist or cold
with perspiration, nor that there shall
be general chill nor the languor
that follows excessive muscular action
the stomach also should be
nearly empty, or at least not actively
engaged in its work of digestion.
The duration of a bath is usually
too long; from five to fifteen minutes
will embrace periods adapted to all
conditions. Even the more robust
ought not to stay in longer than the
last mentioned time.

UNION, P. V. and seat of justice,
267 ms. S. W. by W. of W. C., and
208 W. of R., in lat. 37° 34′ N. and
long. 3° 32′ W. of W. C.,—situated
northeastward from Peters' mountain
in Greenbrier Valley, about 40 ms. a
little W. of N. from Christiansburg.
The town of Union is a beautiful little
village, in a pleasant and healthy
situation. The country around for
many miles is a rich and fertile soil,
particularly adapted to grass. A vast
number of cattle, horses, hogs, &c.
are annually fattened in this neighborhood.
It contains besides the usual
county buildings, which are handsome,
45 dwelling houses, 2 houses
of public worship, (1 Methodist and
1 Presbyterian,) 1 common school, 2
houses of public entertainment, 3
mercantile stores, 2 tan yards, and 3
saddlers. The other mechanics are,
tailors, boot and shoe makers, blacksmiths,
wagon makers, brick layers,
&c. &c. This court house is situated
15 ms. west of the top of the Alleghany
mountain. Population 400
persons; of whom 1 is a resident attorney,
and 2 are regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Monday
in every month,—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Brown holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 14th of May and October.

 
[42]

A short time before the illness of the
late Mr. Wirt, the proprietor received
from him a letter respecting these waters,
and the pamphlet above mentioned, which
we here beg leave to subjoin.

Dear Sir,

In answer to your letter of the 29th ult
I have much pleasure in stating, that I
was highly gratified by my excursion to
the Red Sulphur Springs last season. It
was my first visit to that place, and I was
so much pleased with the water, the entertainment
and the scenery, that my stay
was protracted, with enjoyment, for nearly
three weeks.

I send you a pamphlet just published in
this city, on the virtues of these waters, by
which you will see that they are rising into
deserved celebrity. The author Doctor
Huntt is a distinguished physician here
whose opinions are entitled to the utmost
respect and confidence, and I hope he will
be instrumental in extending the knowledge
of these valuable waters.

With every wish for your success, I remained
dear sir, very respectfully and truly,
yours,

WM. WIRT.

MONTGOMERY.

Montgomery was created by the Legislature in the year 1777, and
formed from Fincastle county. It is bounded N. and N. W. by Giles,—
W. and S. W. by Wythe,—S. by the new county of Floyd,—and W. by
Franklin. As we are unacquainted with the precise dimensions of Floyd,
we shall be compelled to give the dimensions of Montgomery as it stood
before the separation. Its mean length was 34 miles, mean breadth 32,
and area 1089 sq. ms. Extending in lat. from 30° 43′ to 37° 24′ N. and
in long. 3° 04′ to 3° 50′ W. of W. C. The northern portion of this county
gives rise to the Roanoke and to Craig's creek, which flow in a N. W.
direction into Botetourt. The county occupies a portion of the high plateau
or table land between the waters which flow into the Atlantic, and
those which flow towards the Mississippi. The mouth of Sinking creek,
which enters the Great Kanawha, in Giles county, at the western foot o
Walker's mountain, of course below any part of Montgomery, is found


401

Page 401
from actual measurement, elevated 1,585 feet above tide water in James
river. The highest spring tributary to Sinking creek was found to be 2509;
we may, therefore, very safely assume as the general elevation of Montgomery
from 1,800 to 2,500; or a mean exceeding 2,100 feet, or an equivalent
to more than five degrees of latitude. If then we assume 37° as
the mean lat. of Montgomery county, the real winter climate will be similar
to that on the Atlantic coast in N. lat. 42°. Besides the mountains, the
whole face of this county is broken and rocky, yet though so rough and
elevated, the streams are bordered with excellent soil.

Population of Montgomery as it stood in 1820, 8,733,—1830, 12,306.
It belongs to the 6th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833,
$1280 27—in 1834 on lots, $92 19—land, $593 77—975 slaves, $243 75
—3283 horses, $196 98—16 studs, $112 00—10 coaches, $28 25—19
carryalls, $19 00—7 gigs, $3 75. Total, $1,289 69. Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $207 44—in 1833, $194 28.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Blacksburg, P. O. 215 ms. W. of
R. and 290 S. W. by W. of W., situated
in the northern part of the county,
9 ms. northwardly from Christiansburg.
It contains 34 dwelling
houses, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,) 1
common school, 1 sabbath school, and
1 temperance society, 3 tan yards, 2
saddlers, and various other mechanics.
Population 150 persons, of
whom 1 is a physician.

CHRISTIANSBURG, P. V. and
county seat, 206 ms. S. W. of R.
and 282 S. W. of W. in lat. 37° 08′
N. and long. 3° 24′ W. of W. It
contains besides the usual county
buildings, 45 dwelling houses, 2
houses of public worship, (1 Methodist
and 1 Presbyterian,) 2 common
schools, 5 miscellaneous stores, 3 benevolent
societies, 2 tanyards, and 2
saddlers. The principal mechanics
are 3 boot and shoe factories, 4 tailors,
4 hatters, 1 cabinet maker, 4 tin
plate workers. Population, whites
230 persons; of whom 5 are resident
attorneys, and 3 regular physicians—
colored 105—total 335.

County Courts are held on the 1st
Monday
in every month,—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Brown, holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 22d of May and October.

Fotheringay, P. O. 195 ms. from
R. and 270 S. W. by W. of W.

Goodson, P. O. 221 ms. W. of R.
and 299 S. W. of W.

La Fayette, P. O. 190 ms. S.
W. of R. and 266 from W., situated
in the N. E. part of the county, near
the foot of the Alleghany mountain
on the head waters of the Roanoke,
and at the junction of the North and
South Forks,—33 ms. from Fincastle,
and 7 from the line dividing the counties
of Montgomery and Botetourt.
This village was established 8 or 10
years since, and is now rapidly progressing,
most of its improvements
having been made within the last 2
years. It contains 43 dwelling houses,
1 house of public worship, (Methodist,)
2 miscellaneous stores, 1 tavern,
1 extensive manufacturing flour mill,
1 tan yard, 1 cooper's shop, 1 boot and
shoe factory, 4 smith shops, and various
other mechanics. The soil of
its vicinity is productive of Indian
corn, wheat and tobacco. Population
103 persons, of whom 1 is a regular
physician.

Newbern, P. V. 225 ms. from R.
and 301 S. W. by W. of W., situated
in the western part of the county, 16
ms. S. W. of Christiansburg, and 7


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Page 402
W. of English's Ferry, on the main
western stage road from Baltimore to
Nashville, Tenn. Its location is high
and airy, giving a fine view of the
adjacent valleys and neighboring
mountains, which present an interesting
and romantic scene, and fill the
traveller's mind with admiration. It
contains 100 houses, 1 house of public
worship, (Methodist,) and 1 (Presbyterian)
in the immediate vicinity,
(used as a school house,) 5 mercantile
stores, 2 taverns, 2 saddlers, 1 tan
yard, 2 boot and shoe makers, 2 wagon
makers, 2 tailors, 2 blacksmith
shops, 1 silversmith and jeweller, and
1 milliner and mantua maker. Population
190 persons; of whom 2 are
physicians. The face of the country
to the N. and N. W. is generally
level to the valley of Back creek, a
distance of 7 or 8 ms. in width, and
between 15 and 20 in length, productive
of every kind of grain, but naturally
adapted to grass. The S. and
S. E. is diversified and uneven, tho'
the soil is of good quality and produces
well. The staple commodities
are beef, pork, grain, hemp, flax, and
butter. On the north bank of New
river, 1¼ ms. from Newbern, there is
a bluff called the Glass Windows, (a
great natural curiosity,) presenting
to the spectator as magnificent a scene
as the Natural Bridge in Rockbridge
county. It is a perpendicular rock
500 feet in height, running parallel
with the river about 3¾ of a mile, in
which there are a number of coves
that produce saltpetre in abundance;
Another natural curiosity is Peak
Knob, about 3 ms. W. of Newbern.
It somewhat resembles the Peaks of
Otter and rises between 800 and 1000
feet above the bed of Peak creek, and
presents the inhabitants with a delightful
landscape to a very considerable
distance. Around the foot of
Peak Knob and on the banks of Peak
creek, are a number of mineral
springs, the medicinal qualities of
which are said to be considerable.

MORGAN.

Morgan was created by act of Assembly in 1820, from a portion of
Hampshire and Berkley counties. It is bounded N. by the Potomac,
which separates it from Washington county of Maryland,—E. by Berkley,—S.
by Frederick and Hampshire,—and W. by the Potomac, separating
it from Alleghany county of Maryland. Its mean length is 22 miles,
mean breadth 16; and area 352 sq. ms. It extends in lat. from 39° 22′ to
39° 40′ N. and in long, from 0° 58′ to 1° 25′ W. of W. C. The general
slope of this county is N. N. E. in the direction of its two principal
streams, the Great Cacapon and Sleepy creek. The surface is much
broken and rocky, but there is much good soil upon the streams.

Population in 1820, 2,500—1830, 2,094. It belongs to the 13th judicial
circuit, and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $561 20—in 1834 on
lots, $46 61—land, $393 72—91 slaves, $22 75—846 horses, $50 76
—2 studs, $20 00—1 coach, $3 00. Total $536 84. Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $162 75—in 1833, $165 83.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

BATH, or Berkley Springs, P.
O. and seat of justice, 186 ms. N. N.
W. of R. and 93 N. W. by W. of
W., situated 8 ms. S. S. W. of Hancocktown,
Md., and 45 ms. N. W. by
W. of Harper's Ferry. Mr. Jeffer-


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son in Notes on Virginia, thus speaks
of this watering place. "On Potomac
river in Berkley co., above the North
mountain are medicinal springs. In
former years they were much more
frequented than those of Augusta or
any other. Their powers however
are less, the waters weakly mineralised
and scarcely warm. They were
more visited, because situated in a
fertile, plentiful, and populous country,
better provided with accommodation,
were always so far from the
Indians, and nearest to the populous
states."—The waters of Bath are now
held in high repute, whatever opinion
might have been entertained of
them in the time at which Mr. Jefferson
wrote his Notes on Virginia;
and hundreds flock to them every
season from Maryland and Pennsylvania.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month:—Quarterly
in March, June, September and
November.

Judge Parker holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 25th of April, and August.

Oakland, P. O. 175 ms. from R.
and 96 N. W. by W. of W.

NICHOLAS.

Nicholas was created by act of Assembly in the year 1818, from a portion
of the counties of Kanawha, Greenbrier, and Randolph. It is bounded
N. by Lewis,—N. E. by Randolph,—E. by Pocahontas,—S. E. and S.
by Greenbrier,—S. W. by Fayette,—and W. by Kanawha. Its mean
length is 44 miles, mean breadth 32½, and area 1,431 sq. ms. It extends
in lat. from 38° 04′ to 38° 43′, and in long. from 3° 18′ to 4° 12′ W. of
W. C. Its greatest declination is to the souhwest, in the direction of its
two principal streams, Gauley river and Elk river. The former flowing
through the southern portion of the county, the latter through the northern.
Gauley is a rough stream, admitting of but little navigation. Elk on the
contrary is a beautiful flowing stream, navigable almost to its source, and
susceptible of being made at a small expense, the channel of valuable trade.
It is well stocked with fine fresh water fish, some of which are of enormous
size. The soil and climate of this county present great variety; being
in some parts very warm and very fertile, in others cold and barren.

Population in 1820, 1,853—in 1830, 3,349. It belongs to the 18th judicial
circuit, and 9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $263 01—in 1834, on
lots, $11 98—land, $199 19—53 slaves, $13 25—899 horses, $53 94—4
studs, $25 00. Total, $303 36. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $179 80—in 1833, $65 83.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Birch River, P. O. 284 ms. from
R. and 327 S. W. of W., situated in
the northern part of the county, 17
ms. N. W. of the county seat.

Mountain Cove, P. O. 273 ms.
from R. and 315 W. of W.

NICHOLAS C.H. or SUMMERVILLE,
P. O. and county seat, 286
ms. N. W. by W. of R. and 310 W.
of W., in lat. 38° 18′ N. and long.
3° 48′ W. of W. C. This village is
situated on a flat at the head of Peter's
creek, and Arbuckles' branch.
The water rises from a flat near the
town and flows east and west, constituting
westwardly the head of Peter's


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creek, and eastwardly the water flows
into Arbuckle's branch, both of which
streams empty into Gauley river,
many miles apart. The village contains
a frame court house, a clerk's office,
and jail of hewn stone, of superior
elegance and durability, 20 dwelling
houses, 2 miscellaneous stores,
2 taverns, 1 tan yard, 2 smith shops,
1 hatter, 1 house joiner, 2 tailors, and
1 boot and shoe maker. Population
100 persons; of whom 2 are resident
attorneys. There is no physician
here, and there are only 2 in the
county.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Tuesday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Duncan holds his Circuit
Superior Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 6th of April and September.

Suttonsville, P. O. 300 ms. N.
W. by W. of R. and 312 S. W. by
W. of W., situated in the southern
part of the county, on the south side
of Big Elk river, distant 100 ms. from
the head of Elk, and from its junction
with the Great Kanawha river.
Elk is navigable to the Union Mills,
10 ms. above Suttonsville, which may
be considered the head of good navition.
The situation of this village is
eligible, being situated at the intersection
of the main northern and
southern mail routes, passing through
the vallies of Kanawha and Ohio.
It contains 8 dwelling houses, 2 miscellaneous
stores, 1 house of entertainment,
and 1 tanyard. Population
45. The principal pursuits of the
inhabitants are building flat bottomed
boats which are run down to the Kanawha
salines, and freighted off with
salt to the various markets in the
western country. There are a considerable
number of valuable grist
and saw mills on this river, which
prepare large quantities of plank,
lumber, &c., for boat building, and
for the Charleston market on the
Great Kanawha. There are also
great quantities of boat gunwales,
barrel-staves, and hoop-poles, carried
from this place to the Kanawha salines.
There are at this time about
15 saw mills built and building on
Big Elk and its tributary waters, a
part of which are expected to go into
operation this season, and many others
are in operation on that part of
Big Elk river which runs through
Kanawha county. It will give some
idea of the business done at this place
and its immediate vicinity, and of its
fast increasing trade, to state that in
the spring of 1833, there were sent
off at one time in boats, lumber, &c.,
to the amount of from 10 to 12,000
dollars. This was the product of
about six months labor, including the
winter season. This section of country
is but thinly and newly settled,
with the exception of a few hunters,
who are not generally very enterprising
people. Its remote situation has
kept its natural advantages and facilities
out of view until lately. It is
now improving, and promises fair to
become a flourishing and prosperous
village.

OHIO.

Ohio county was created by act of Assembly in the year 1776, from a
portion of the District of West Augusta. It is bounded N. by Brooke,—
N. E. by Washington county, Pa.—S. E. by Greene county, Pa.—S. by
Tyler county, Va.—S. W. by the Ohio river, which separates it from Monroe
county, Ohio,—and N. W. by Belmont county, Ohio. It will be perceived
that these limits include the new county of Marshall, created from


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the Southern portion of Ohio, at the session of the Legislature of 1834-5.
Indeed as the law has not yet been promulgated which established this new
county it will be impossible to separate them, and we shall speak of Ohio
county as it stood in December, 1834. Its mean length is 28¾ miles, mean
breadth 13; and area 375 square miles. It extends in lat. from 39° 42′ to
40° 14′ N. and in long. from 3° 36′ to 3° 55′ W. of W. C. The declivity
is N. W. towards the Ohio river. Several creeks which rise in Pa. flow
N. W. to the Ohio through this county;—they are—Fishing,—Fish,—
Grave,—Wheeling, and Short.—The surface is very much broken, but
the soil very fertile, especially on the water courses.

Population in 1820, 9,182—in 1830, 15,590. It belongs to the 20th judicial
circuit and 10th district. Tax paid in 1833, $2630 17—in 1834,
on lots, $1385 46—land, $820 33—183 slaves, $45 75—4291 horses,
$257 46—23 studs, $190 00—40 coaches, $97 25—13 carryalls, $14 50
—12 gigs, $8 50—Total $2819 25. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $520 06—in 1833, $842 61.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Archville, P. O. 263 ms. from
W. and 353 from R.

Beeler's Station, P. O. 350
ms. N. W. of R. and 259 N. W.
by W. of W.—situated in the southern
part of the county—the present
county of Marshall.

Grave Creek, or Elizabethtown,
P. V. 356 ms. from R. and
260 N. W. by W. of W.—situated
12 ms. below Wheeling. This creek
and village take their name from very
extensive tumuli, scattered over an
elevated bottom or plain. The author
of this article visited this plain
twice in 1794, before the use of the
plough or other farming utensils had
much disturbed the remains. At that
epoch one very large conical mound,
surrounded by a ditch, was itself environed
by numerous and similar,
though smaller, tumuli. The remains
of the roads, sloping down the banks
from the plain, was also perfectly distinguishable,
as was the trench of a
work in form of a parallelogram.

Triadelphia, P. O. 364 ms. from
R. and 255 from W.

West Union, P. O. 344 ms. from
R. and 266 S. W. by W. of W.—
Situated on Wheeling creek, 14 miles
S. E. by E. of Wheeling, on an advantageous
and beautiful eminence,
and on the post road leading from
Morgantown, Monongalia county, to
Wheeling. It contains 7 dwelling
houses, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyterian,) 1
common school, 2 taverns, 1 general
store, 2 blacksmith shops, 1 tanyard,
and 1 tailor's shop. Population 25.

West Liberty, P. O. 276 ms.
N. W. by W. of W. and 369 from
R. This village is situated in a
healthy and flourishing neighborhood,
densely settled, five miles from
the Ohio river, twelve miles N. E.
of Wheeling, and nine S. of Wellsburg,
the county seat of Brooke. It
contains 40 dwelling houses, 2 houses
of public worship, (1 Presbyterian,
and 1 Methodist,) 1 academy and 2
common schools, 3 mercantile stores,
2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2
blacksmith shops, 2 tailors, 1 coach
maker, and several house carpenters,
cabinet makers, &c. 1 printing office,
from which a weekly paper is issued.
There are within the circle of 3 ms.
around this village, 6 manufacturing
flour mills. The soil of the surrounding
neighborhood is productive,
and one of the best wheat and wool
growing countries west of the mountains.
Population 280 persons; of
whom 2 are regular physicians.


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Page 406

WHEELING CITY, seat of
justice,
357 ms. from R. and 264 W.
of W. C. in lat. 40° 07′ N. and long.
4° 36′ W. of W. C.—situated on the
left bank of the Ohio river, and at the
mouth of a creek of the same name,
56 ms. S. W. of Pittsburg and 31 S.
W. by W. of Washington, in Pa.—
The origin of this place was Wheeling
fort, built early in the Revolutionary
war, which stood on the breast
of a high bank, at the point of which,
the U. S. road reaches the Ohio river.
Wheeling advanced at first but slowly.
It was laid out as a village early in
1783, and in 1820 contained 1,567 inhabitants.
Within the last thirteen
years the advance has been rapid,—
in 1830 the population was 5,222, and
now, 1834, is estimated at 8,000,—
among whom are 14 resident attorneys,
12 regular physicians, and 11
clergymen. It contains about 500
houses, 9 houses of public worship,
(2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopalian, 2
Methodist, 1 Catholic, 1 Friends or
Quakers, 1 regular Baptist, and 1
Campbellite, &c.

There are a number of very excellent
institutions here. 1st. The
Wheeling Institute, contains 4 departments,
viz.—infant—primary—classical,
and female—under the superintendence
of six teachers, and contains
from 150 to 160 pupils.

2d. The Wheeling Lancasterian
Academy. 3d. The Wheeling Classical
Academy 4th. The Wheeling
Female Seminary. 5th. The
Wheeling University, (not yet organized,)
and nine common English preparatory
schools.

The rear of this town is skirted by
a range of hills which approaches
within a short distance of the river
These hills, which abound with inexhaustible
quantities of stone coal, from
their proximity to the town are of the
greatest convenience to the numerous
manufactories;—a number of them
having coal within a few yards of
their fires. This place is one of the
first manufacturing towns in the western
country, and ranks, in point of
population, the fourth in the state.
There are at all times not less than
26 steam engines in operation. The
Wheeling Iron Works, owned by
Messrs Shanberger & Agnew, roll
1000 tons of iron annually—about
300 tons of which are cut into nails
of various sizes—the balance being
bar, boiler, sheet, hoop iron, &c.—
giving employment to a great number
of hands, and consuming 150,000
bushels of stone coal annually.
These works are calculated to produce
double or treble the quantity prannum,
if there were a demand for it.
There are also 4 iron foundries, employing
70 hands, & consuming about
130,000 bushels of coal annually, 4
steam engine builders, giving employment
to 70 hands and consuming 60,000
bushels of stone coal annually—
5 glass houses and 2 glass cutting establishments—giving
employment to
193 hands, and consuming 260,000
bushels of stone coal, 3 steam flour
mills, consuming 75,000 bushels per
annum, 1 brewery, 2 steam distilleries,
consuming 50,000 bushels, 2 cotton
factories, 2 woollen factories and carding
machines, consuming 70,000 bushels,
2 paper mills, 70,000 bushels, 2
steam saw mills, 50,000 bushels, 1
copperas, 1 white and 1 sheet lead factory,
consuming 8,000 bushels of stone
coal annually.

There are 2 tobacco factories and 1
glue factory, 1 coach and wagon maker,
1 edge tool maker, 3 chair makers,
1 comb maker, 2 merchant tailors,
giving employment to a great
number of hands, 4 silversmiths, 18
blacksmiths, and 3 white smiths, 2
steam planing machines, 3 tanners
and curriers, 5 saddlers, 17 boot and
shoe factories, 6 painters and glaziers,
3 cabinet makers, 3 coppersmiths and
tin plate workers, 5 hatters, 2 wire
workers, 2 coopers, 1 rope maker, 2
water pump manufactories, 2 soap and
tallow chandleries, 10 bake houses, 5


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livery stables, 1 stone and earthen pottery,
7 brick yards, 12 master stone
and brick masons, 5 stone cutters, 6
plasterers, 7 carpenters and undertakers,
1 book bindery, 1 brass foundry,
3 window glass and hollow ware
manufactories, consuming 175,000
bushels of coal annually, 3 printing
offices, (2 issuing a weekly, and 1 a
tri weekly paper,) 1 book and job office,
2 book stores, 1 reading room,
and a very extensive circulating library,
12 apothecaries' shops, 1 Lyceum,
a Masonic Hall and Theatre.

The aggregate number of manufactories
in the town of Wheeling for
domestic goods are 113, using annually
upwards of 1,000,000 bushels of
coal, and giving employment to more
than 1,300 hands. There are 65
wholesale and retail stores, vending
annually goods to the amount of $1,500,000,
7 commission and forwarding
houses, for the sale of goods consigned,
and for receiving and forwarding
merchandize and produce. These
houses, from Nov'r 1832, to Nov'r
1833, forwarded to Baltimore and the
District of Columbia, by wagons,
2,671 hogsheads of tobacco, and by
steam, keel and flat boats, to the west
and south, and by wagons to Baltimore
and Philadelphia, merchandize
and produce equal to at least 11,000
tons. During the same period there
was paid to wagoners for carriage on
goods from the eastern cities, and to
boats for freights, via the river, a sum
variously estimated at from $230 to
$250,000. The amount of money
expended for the purchase of merino
wool exported during the past season
cannot be exactly ascertained, but it is
known that a sum exceeding $104,500
was so invested for pork, lard and
bacon 130 to $140,000, flour 550
to $600,000, whiskey, cider, apples,
&c. 50 to $60,000, flat boats to transport
the same 70 to $80,000, stone
coal, say 1,000,000 bushels, $30,000,
flat boats to transport the same, 15 to
$20,000. There is owned in Wheeling,
in whole and in part, from 17 to
20 steam boats, worth from 200 to
$230,000. The arrivals and departures
of steam boats at and from this
port during the past year were, 738.
Wheeling is by a law of Congress a
port of entry, so that goods from any
port of Europe may be imported direct
without payment of duties at New
Orleans.

There is now running to and from
Wheeling eight lines of daily stages,
east, west and north—1 tri-weekly
line, 1 semi-weekly and 1 weekly.
The number of passengers arriving
and departing weekly by steam boats
and stages are variously estimated at
from 350 to 400.—The Baltimore and
Ohio wagon transportation company
with a capital of $200,000 (one-fourth
of which is paid in) transports goods
and produce between Wheeling and
Baltimore. One wagon arrives and departs
daily at and from each of those
places, with a load weighing from 2¼
to 2½ tons and occupies 8 days upon
the road. Arrangements are in progress
to increase the number of daily
arrivals and departures from one to
three wagons, and eventually to five.

There are now within a circle of
25 miles around Wheeling, 134 manufacturing
flour mills, making annually
at least 270,000 barrels of flour,
worth say $823,500—of this quantity,
from 150,000 to 160,000 bbls are
exported by boats to New Orleans, or
by wagons across the mountains.—
The public water works are now nearly
completed, worked by a steam engine
of 120 horse power; and it possesses
the capacity to raise       gallons
of water from the Ohio river per hour.
These, together with the erection of
public stone wharves, sewers, &c. &c.
of the most permanent kind, cost the
corporation within the last 2 years an
expenditure of upwards of $40,000.
A stone bridge has lately been erected
over Wheeling creek at this place,
at a cost of $17,000.—Boat building
for the last few years has been carried


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Page 408
on here extensively. At low water,
steam boats ascend no higher than this
place. From the fact of its having a
more permanent navigation the whole
year round than any other point, it is
made the general route of travellers.
It also possesses one of the finest markets
in the western country. The
Baltimore and Ohio rail-road it is
supposed will strike the Ohio river at
this place. Considering all these advantages,
there remains no doubt that
in the course of a few years Wheeling
will become one of the most important
places in the west. The
northwestern bank of Virginia is located
here. It may not be considered
irrelative to state that the present
population of Wheeling is estimated
at about 8,000 souls; shewing an increase
in the last four years, (since
the census of 1830) of about fifty per
cent.;
and, in the last 15 years, of
about eight hundred per cent! The
colored part of the population, both
slaves and free blacks—amounting to
less than two hundred—it is highly
probable that Wheeling contains already,
the largest white population of
any town or city, in the state, and, in
reference to its manufactories and
commerce, if not the first, is doubtless,
the second town in the commonwealth.
A growth so rapid, is believed to be
altogether unexampled in Virginia;
and but seldom surpassed even in the
rapidly filling districts of the "great
west."

This town, the capital of Ohio
county, situated at the head of steam
boat navigation on the Ohio, during
the low water season; at the termination
of the eastern, and commencement
of the western division of the
great "Cumberland," or "National
Road," possessing unexampled facilities
and advantages for manufacturing,
in the abundance and low cost of all
materials, and especially of fuel;
(coal, costing, delivered at the factories,
but one to three cents per bushel.)
surrounded by a country of uncommon
fertility, and remarkable for
health—cannot but continue to advance
in business, population and
wealth.

County and Corporation Courts
are held on the 3d Monday, in every
month — Quarterly in March,
June, August
and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 14th
of May and October,
by Judge Fry.

PAGE.

Page was established by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed out of
parts of Rockingham and Shenandoah. It is bounded on the W. and N.
W. by Shenandoah,—N. and N. E. by Frederick,—E. by the Blue Ridge,
separating it from Rappahannock,—S. E. by Madison, and S. and S. W. by
Rockingham, Length 34 miles, breadth 11, and area 374 square miles
Lat. 38° 45′ long. 1° 25′ W. of W. C. It consists of one entire valley.
The Blue Ridge lying on the east and the Fort or Massanuttin mountain
on the west. The Shenandoah river passes through the whole length of
the county, running from south to north. The Blue Ridge and Fort mountain
are exactly parallel to each other, and here range due north and south,
thus making the county an oblong square—the east and west boundary
lines running on the top of these mountains respectively. These mountains
present a most beautiful and pictureque appearance at all seasons of
the year. The snow and ice, and clouds of winter, are not less beautiful,
though something more dreary, than the refreshing green of summer, or


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the bright and varied hues of autumn. The land in this county is generally
of the very best quality of limestone, valley land—a very considerable
portion is bottom, lying on the Shenandoah river and Hawksbill
and other creeks. Considered in relation to its agricultural advantages, it is
with the exception of Jefferson, the richest county of its size, in the state.
The productions of the soil are such as are common in the valley of Virginia.

There are in the county 61 saw mills, 24 merchant mills, 20 grist mills,
6 carding machines, 3 oil mills, 6 hemp mills, 10 tan yards, 1 blast furnace
for smelting iron and making castings, and 2 forges for making bar
iron. These forges and this furnace belong to Benj Blackford & Son,
and their manufactures in iron, are annually worth 50,000 dollars.

Vast quantities of iron ore are found in every part of the county. Copper,
lead and magnesia are also found in considerable quantities. Beautiful
marble is found in many places. The town of Luray may be said to
be almost built on a rock of gray marble—but as yet there has been no
effort made to dress it for ornamental use. The rock is blown, and the
marble in its rough and crude state—is used for all the common building
purposes of the town. It never can become an article of commerce, until
there are increased facilities of transportation.

The population by the census in 1830 was 8,327, about 1000 of whom
were slaves. It belongs to the 14th judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax
paid in 1833, $1354 09—in 1834, on lots, $49 65—land, $989 56—517
slaves, $129 25—1991 horses, $189 46—6 studs, $38 00—6 coaches,
$13 00—4 gigs, $2 50. Total, $1341 42. Expended in educating poor
children in 1832, $237 25—in 1833, $369 18.

Curiosities.—There are several very large mounds or Indian graves,
such as are common to the Ohio and Mississippi valley—from one of which,
situated in a field in cultivation, bones, beads, pipes, &c. are continually
dragged by the plough. There are many large and extensive caves in this
county, such as are peculiar to lime stone countries—one of which, that at
Cave Hill, is thought to be little inferior in extent and beauty to Weyer's
Cave. It is not however, very accessible, the entrance being difficult, and
is therefore but little visited. The author has been so obliging as to send
us the following beautiful description of this remarkable cave—which he
published in the Shenandoah Sentinel, May 14th, 1825, it is well written
and well worthy of perusal.

"Wonders of Cave Hill.—It would seem that all that region of country
lying west of the Blue Ridge, as far towards the Pacific ocean as
it has been explored and known, abounds in subjects, which, whilst they
gratify the curiosity and exercise the utmost stretch of the imagination,
confound and baffle the understanding. And a subject not the least curious
and wonderful, are those extensive and numerous caverns, which are
found generally in the limestone districts of country.

"One of those caves has been known to the people of the neighborhood
of Luray, in Page county, during a number of years past, but nothing
like a full discovery of its beauties was ever made until within a few days
past. This cave is about one mile west of the town of Luray, and situated
within a hundred yards of the road leading from Thornton's Gap to
New Market. The entrance is almost exactly at the top of a small mountain,
which has for along time been known to the neighborhood by the name
of Cave Hill. Recently several attempts had been made to explore this


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subterranean world, but rather unsuccessfully; and on Saturday last a party
of fifteen gentlemen left Luray, with a determination to give it a complete
exploration.

"The mouth of the cave was rather difficult of access, owing to its smallness;
but the party eager for the marvellous and impatient of obstacles,
fell manfully to work, and in a short time, by breaking and removing the
rocks, a different and more commodious entrance than the one formerly
used, was opened into the cave. Then commenced the bustle of preparation
for the descent. The broad cloth and finer articles of dress were
quickly laid aside, and in their stead was substituted old clothing, which
had been specially provided for the occasion. Then the descent commenced—each
man provided with a sufficient number of candles for half a
day, whilst others carried provisions and refreshments; and others again,
instruments for the purpose of ascertaining courses, distances, &c., and of
determining other matters relating to the cave.

"Here, if we mistake not, was a pretty correct criterion of that physical
courage and strength of nerve which we so much admire in others, and
which we are all willing to believe we possess ourselves. Each man was
willing that his comrade should descend first into this great unknown deep;
and all were willing to be the last to enter. In a few moments, however,
the whole party were safely entered. The descent for ten or fifteen yards
is rather narrow, and at an angle of forty-five degrees; it then takes a
horizontal direction, until we are brought at the distance of about one hundred
yards from the entrance, to the first room, which from its situation, we
called the Lobby.

"The passage approaches this room about ten feet above the level of the
floor, and at some places it is perpendicular, but the descent into the room,
is down the rocks somewhat in the form of steps. This room contains
some specimens of beautiful spar. Here we tried to take the bearing of
the room, but found from the proximity of minerals, or some unknown
cause, that the instruments were rendered wholly useless. Leaving this
room, we proceeded in a direction which seemed to be west and southwest,
and down the side of the hill. This passage has somewhat the appearance
of a large stairway. After descending, as we supposed, about a quarter of
a mile, the passage became very straight and smooth, and gradually enlarged
until we perceived that we stood in front of a room whose dimensions, from
the light of our candles, we could not discover. The entrance here, as in
the room which we first entered, was ten or fifteen feet above the level of
the floor. After a few moments, however, by clinging to the projections of
spar, which here appeared like large icicles, the whole party stood safely
upon the floor of this great room. Here all the wonder and magnificence
of the subterranean world burst upon us at once. We found that we stood
in a room, the area of whose floor was equal to a quarter of an acre. Immediately
before us, and within a few feet of the centre of the room, arose
a vast column or pillar, in some degree combining architectural proportions;
and running up about thirty feet, and supporting the dome of this
immense Hall. This column stands upon a block or rude pedestal, about
three feet in height, and the shaft where it rests upon it is about the thickness
of a man's body. It then swells gradually until it becomes, at the
distance of twenty feet from its base, about the size of a barrel, whence it
continues of the same size, until it gradually enlarges into its capital, where
it reaches the dome. Strange to tell, this vast column is almost as regularly


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fluted or grooved, as if it had been done with the chisel of the sculptor.
About fifteen feet from the main pillar stand two smaller ones, about ten
feet in height, which consequently do not reach the ceiling; and just at
their base, and nearly between them is a small pool or basin of water.
Here the whole party sat down, and unfolding their various bundles of
provisions and refreshments, and sticking their candles to the different pillars
and projections of the wall, enjoyed their cold collation with such appetites
and spirits, as were naturally produced by exercise and the novelty
of the scene around us. We perceived now for the first time, by the united
glare of all our candles, that the whole of the arch of this immense Hall,
was hung with the most beautiful stalactites, and variegated with almost
every possible variety of color. In some places it was perfectly white, then
red, grey or yellow—and in others it was as clear and transparent as ice.

"In looking around us towards the lights which were dispersed in different
parts of the Hall, the various small spars or pillars that were pointing
up—others that had been detached from the ceiling and lay scattered
about the floor—and numerous large blocks of crystalized limestone, produce
novel and almost indescribable feelings. It did not require an imagination
unusually fervid, to liken this dim picture of the floor, to the miniature
ruins of some great city, with a few of its spires and steeples pointing
up from the ruins; or to some mighty temple, with its shattered and broken
columns and fallen walls, with just sufficient of its materials to shew the
style of its former magnificence.

"When we had finished our repast and collected our company to push
forward in quest of further discoveries, we concluded to call this room
Congress Hall; its magnificence being equalled by nothing else within
our knowledge. We now proceeded to the left of the entrance by which
we came into the Hall—entered an opening which presented itself, and by
following rather an uneven and difficult passage, we very soon arrived in
another room. Here we found a very pleasing subject for our admiration.
A large block or projection of the rock at one side of this room was hung
round with a vast number of stalactites, of every possible variety of shape
and size,—from the thickness of one's finger to that of one's arm, and from
six inches to three or four feet in length. Some one of the party casually
striking one of the larger of these stalactites, a loud, full sound was emitted,
something like the tone of a distant church bell. Several of the party
then drawing pieces of spar across these stalactites, alternately and in concert
with each other, it produced a rude and not unpleasing melody, with
every gradation of sound, from the deepest tone of the organ to the finest
note of the flute. This room we somewhat aptly called the Music Room.
Finding no convenient outlet from this room other than the one by which
we entered, we returned into Congress Hall. After we had entered this
Hall again, and continued to the right until we came to the great stairway,
by which we had first entered, we discovered greatly to our surprise that
this entrance projected into the Hall twelve or fifteen feet, and was nearly
as many feet from the floor. You can form some idea of this singular
entrance by supposing a square box with its ends open to be projected
through a window into a room. This projected or funnel part of the entrance
appeared to have been formed by the same process that the stalactites and
spar had been; and its bottom, under which we could all walk and view it,
seemed not to be more than nine or ten inches in thickness. Immediately
to the right of this passage, commenced, what we very properly called, a


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Gallery. This Gallery was considerably above the level of the room, and
contained a great quantity of very brilliant and beautiful spar. The side
of the Gallery next to the Hall was entirely open, from which we could
look down into it. We left the gallery, and still continuing to the right
around the Hall, we entered a cavity in the floor; and after traversing a
tolerably long aud difficult passage, we arrived at a very regular room, the
side walls and ceiling of which seemed to be the clear blue limestone, with
a thin crystallization as clear as glass over their surface. We could reach
the ceiling, upon which we wrote many of our names with white chalk,
the day of the month, year, &c. This room we called the Glazed Chamber.
In the passage leading to this chamber, we discovered attached to
the side of the rock, what appeared to be a complete conch shell. The
shape and size—the smoothness and delicate red on the inside, and the
roughness on the outside, with the little circle of knobs near the top, all
precisely corresponded with the product of the sea. And it appeared that
a very gentle tap would have detached it from the rock. Within a few
feet of this was a sparry excrescence, exactly resembling the human heart.
Its color, shape, and size all precisely corresponded. And near this again,
the perfect leg, foot, and talons of a bird projected from the rock. These
several objects were so clearly and completely defined and so closely resembled
the originals, as to strike the mind even of the most inattentive
observer with a degree of astonishment.

"From the Glazed Chamber we all once more returned to Congress
Hall, and still continued our discoveries to the right around the room. We
perceived now, that as the arch of this great room became lower, large
stalactites were projected from it and reached the floor; thus forming a beautiful
colonnade or row of shining pillars in a line with the direction of the
room, and three or four feet from its wall, leaving between this colonnade
and the wall a beautiful recess. In this recess one of the simplest, yet one
of the most striking beauties of the cave unfolded itself. This was a
spring or pool of pure water, which appeared as transparent as ether. This
pool or basin is about three or four feet in diameter, and twelve or fourteen
inches in depth. The bottom and sides of this basin where the water covers
them, are entirely covered with stalagmites or drops of shining spar, which
have much the appearance of burnished silver. About the centre of this
pool, stands a beautiful stalactite, eighteen inches in height, and unlike all
the rest of these specimens of spar which we found arising from the floor,
the small end or point rested on the bottom of the basin, and gradually
enlarged until it arose several inches above the top of the water, thus presenting
the singular appearance of a long cone resting upon its point.
Exactly over this, a large spar hangs from the ceiling of the room, and
approaches within eighteen inches of that which is in the water. From
the point of this hanging spar there runs a stream of water about the thickness
of a quill, and falls exactly on the top of the spar in the centre of the
spring; and is, in fact, the source from which the spring is supplied. Both
of these stalactites have the appearance of large icicles.

"To the right of this spring behind the pillars and a little above it,
through the solid limestone rock or wall of the room, was a small smooth
opening just large enough to admit the body. This opening is perfectly
level, and after sliding about ten feet, we came into a room, not so large,
but in point of beauty, far exceeding anything which we had seen. The
whole interior of this room is a complete lustre, or surface of shining spar.


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In this room about three and a half feet above the level of the floor, is a
complete wainscot or chairboard, with apparent mouldings and carved work
in complete relief; and extending in one entire and unbroken circle around
the room. In the centre of the floor stand three large spars, resembling
candlesticks of a mammoth size. These candlesticks arise from the floor
of the room with various enlargements and diminutions, resembling carved
work, until they reach the exact level of the chairboard, when the spar
which resembles the candle, and seems to be set into a socket, runs up
about two feet. As if to make the copy more exact, and the resemblance
more palpably striking, the candlesticks seem to be of a dusky or bronze
color, and the candle or spar arising from it of a clear white. We called
this room the Masonic Hall.

One fact here presented itself too palpably to be mistaken. This room
had evidently been at one time filled with water to the height of the chairboard,
and by the gradual crystallization of the lime and nitre which it
held suspended, the chairboard was formed, which at once accounted for
its being so perfectly level and regular, and running into all the little hollows
and irregularities of the wall. The candlesticks too had been formed
in the same way by the dropping of the water from the arch; and which
being, as we supposed completely saturated with lime and nitre, was of
greater specific gravity than the water into which it fell, and thus was
gradually formed the large spars which resembled the candlesticks, until
they rose even with the top of the water; after which the spar became immediately
small and clear, resembling a candle. The crystallization on
the walls of this room is in beautiful waves and folds, resembling drapery.
At one end of the room a large spar, resembling a bed post, stood in beautiful
relief from the wall, and large folds and waves of drapery, resembling
curtains, seemed to hide the rest of the bed.

"Here then our admiration and astonishment were at their height. Our
feelings had been wrought up to a degree of almost painful intensity.
Here we stood hundreds of feet beneath the surface of the earth, and a full
half-mile from the first entrance, treading upon a spot and breathing an
atmosphere which had not been disturbed since the creation of the world.
A place in which the human voice had never before been heard, and on
whose beauties the human eye had never rested. There was in truth an
awful sublimity in the state of our feelings, superinduced not only by what
we saw, but in part perhaps by a contingent danger to which we were exposed.
The falling of the arch, or the rolling of a single rock into some
of the narrow passages which we had to retrace, would have shut us up in
eternal darkness in this mysterious region of wonders.

"Why nature should display those various and astonishing beauties only
for herself, or place them thus in a region of darkness and danger, is to
us marvellous and incomprehensible. Or why she should thus, in a capricious
or whimsical mood, group together objects the least resembling each
other in their nature and uses is equally strange. A bedstead, drapery and
candlesticks—a conch shell, bird's foot and a human heart. Strange and
mysterious associations. We cannot fully describe or comprehend them.
And all that we could do upon viewing them was to exclaim, wonderful!
wonderful!

"From the room last described, we returned to the mouth of the cave,
and found that we had spent upwards of four hours in examining its beauties,
without, however, discovering their full extent. We determined to
defer a further search to some other occasion.


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"This cave is situated on the lands of Mr. David McKay, and is said to
have been first partially explored in the following singular manner. A
Mr. Ruffner, who was nearly as much celebrated for deeds of sylvan
prowess as the renowned Putnam, in passing this cave some thirty years
ago, conceived the bold and hazardous design of entering it alone. He
accordingly prepared himself a flambeau of pine, and placed his rifle
across the mouth, to indicate, in case of accident, to his friends, if they
should happen to see it, that he was in the cave. He descended, but soon
fell and put out his light, and as might have been expected, was soon bewildered
and lost in its labyrinth of passages. It happened that some of
his friends in passing the cave discovered his gun, and rightly concluding
that he had gone into it, they procured lights and entered in search of him,
and found and brought him out again, after his having been in forty-eight
hours. This brave fellow was among the pioneers who were foremost in
exploring and settling our western frontier; and was at last killed by the
Indians, after having performed deeds of valor and daring prowess, which
would have done honor to the character of a hero."

We suggest the propriety of commemorating the exploit mentioned in
this last paragraph, by calling this cave in future Ruffner's Cave.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Hambaugh's, P. O. 146 ms. from
R. and 82 W. of W. C.

Honiesville, P. O. 137 ms. from
R. and 115 W. of W. C. This village
is situated 10 ms. above Luray,
between the Masanutten mountain
and the Blue Ridge, on the banks of
Honey creek, (from which it takes
its name,) about 200 yards from its
junction with the south Shenandoah
river, which is navigable 40 miles
above this place. It contains 6 dwelling
houses, 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 1
common school, 1 mercantile store, 1
tavern, 1 extensive manufacturing
flour mill, 2 saw mills, 1 wool carding
machine, 1 distillery, 1 boat yard
famed for building gundaloe boats, 1
tailor, 1 boot and shoe maker, and 1
blacksmith shop.—Population 34 persons;
of whom 1 is a regular physician.

Hope's Mills, P. O. 3 ms. N. of
Luray, and 87 from W.

Kite's Mill, P. O. 14 ms. from
Luray, county seat, and 104 from W.

LURAY, P. V. and county seat,
105 ms. from W. and 136 from R.
It is situated on the Hawksbill creek,
near the centre of the county, and
equidistant from Thornton's Gap on
the E., and Massanutten Gap on the
W. The first house in this village
was built in 1814. It now contains
besides the ordinary county buildings,
between 40 and 50 dwelling houses,
2 houses of public worship, (1 Baptist
and 1 Methodist.) There are 4
mercantile stores, 1 tan yard, 2 cabinet
makers, 2 wheelwrights, and various
other mechanics. Population
400 persons, of whom 3 are resident
attorneys and 3 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in March, May, August and November.

Judge Smith holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 1st of April and September.

The court house in this village
which is erected on a considerable
eminence, and on the edge of the
town, is perhaps one of the handsomest
buildings of the kind in Western
Virginia. It commands a view of
the mountains to the east and west
far beyond the limits of the county.


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Marksville, P. O. 125 ms. from
R. and 112 from W.

Massanutten, P. O. 144 ms. from
R. and 114 W. of W.

Overalls, P. O. 91 ms. W. of W.
and 142 from R.

The Stoney Man, one of the
peaks of the Blue Ridge, between
Page and Madison counties; it is
about 10 ms. distant and in full view
from the court house yard. The
Stoney Man has been considered by
some to be the next highest peak of the
Blue Ridge, after the Peaks of Otter.

PENDLETON.

Pendleton was created by an act of Assembly passed in 1788, and formed
from a portion of Augusta, Hardy, and Rockingham. It is bounded N. by
Hardy,—E. and S. E. by a ridge called the Great North mountain, which separates
it from Rockingham and Augusta,—S. by Bath,—and W. by the main
Alleghany chain, which separates it from Pocahontas and Randolph. Its mean
length is 38½ miles, mean breadth 26, and area 999 square miles. It extends in
lat. from 38° 15, to 38° 53′ N, and in long. from 2° to 2° 42′ W. of W. C.
Pendleton occupies the most elevated part of the table land between its two
bounding ridges of mountains, discharging to the S. W. the extreme sources
of James river, and in an opposite direction the higher sources of south
branch of Potomac. Comparing the general elevation of Pendleton with
the determined height of James river in Alleghany county, considering the
whole slope of Bath county intervening, the level of the arable land from
whence flow the sources of James and Potomac rivers, must exceed 2000
feet. Covington in Alleghany at the junction of Pott's creek with Jackson's,
is 1,222 feet above the mean tide in Chesapeake bay, and at this point
the water of Jackson river has fallen down a plain of upwards of 50 miles
descent. The southern end of this county is pretty equally divided into
four vallies, by five parallel ridges of mountains, which go under the following
names, beginning on the eastern side, first, Shenandoah mountain—
second, Cowpasture mountain—third, Bullpasture mountain—fourth, Jackson's
mountain, and fifth, Fore mountain, to the main Alleghany ridge. The
valley between the Shenandoah and Cowpasture mountains is watered by a
stream called Shaw's fork, a branch of the Cowpasture river, and is of a
thin soil, and badly cultivated. Near the head of the fork, are two beautiful
mineral springs, about two miles apart, which would rank among the
first watering places in Western Virginia, provided the necessary accommodations
could be furnished to visiters. The valley between the Cowpasture
and Bullpasture mountains, is watered by the Cowpasture river, and is
rather superior in point of soil and cultivation to the former. The valley
between the Bullpasture and Jackson's mountains, is watered by the Bullpasture
river, a rapid and beautiful stream, which furnishes a number of
commodious sites for machinery. The soil in this valley is good, well
adapted to the growth of grass, and the production of grain, is well improved,
and in a tolerable state of cultivation. The valley between Jackson
and the Fore mountains, is watered by Jackson's river, and will bear nearly
the same description of the former. There is in the S. W. part of the county
on the head of Jackson's river, a small village by the name of Woodsboro'.
It contains seven houses, a tanyard, and various mechanics, but it is on the
decline.

The Crab run is a beautiful stream of pure water; it has its rise at the


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eastern base of Jackson's mountain, and flows in a S. E. direction about ten
miles, through the southern end of the county, and empties into the Bullpasture
river, about one mile below the post office of the same name. The
wedge of land pointing above its junction with the Bullpasture, affords one
of the most beautiful sites for a town that is any where to be found in this
section of country, several dwelling houses, 1 mercantile store, a saw mill,
a blacksmith shop, 1 house of public worship, and 1 common school, have
been erected on this spot of ground, which is known by the name of Sugar
Tree Grove.

There are within the limits of this description, and south of the main
Alleghany ridge, 3 houses of public worship, (Methodist,) 2 tan yards, 2
mercantile stores, and a sufficient number of common schools, for the education
of youth, with various mechanics. From the main Alleghany ridge
northwestward, this part of the county is divided into five valleys, by as
many different parallel ridges of mountains. The first valley is watered by
the south fork of the south branch of Potomac, and is situated between the
Shenandoah and Thorn mountains.—The south fork has its rise in the S.
W. part of the county, within a few hundred yards of the head spring of
the Cowpasture river, which flows the other way. From the head of the
south fork for about 18 miles down the stream, the land is of a sandy soil,
and is arid, thin and unproductive, and every thing wears the aspect of poverty.
Proceeding a little lower down, the bottom begins to widen, the soil
becomes more fertile, the farms are more enlarged and in a better state of
cultivation and repair. "The manners and dress of the people discover more
polish,—the hair of their flocks and herds has changed its weather-worn
deadness, for a slick and glossy coat, and every thing assumes the appearance
of thriftiness and better living." The S. fork has but one tributary
stream of any note, which it receives about ten miles from its source, and
which is known by the name of Bushby's fork. There is one store on the
head of the south fork. There are two others below this,—one about 20,
the other about 30 miles,—the first is 15. the second 9, and the third 12
miles from Franklin county seat. There are also four houses of public
worship on this water, (3 Lutheran and 1 Union.) The first is 19, the second
15, the third 10, and the fourth 13 miles from the county seat. The
S. fork flows N. E. and after passing into Hardy county, empties into the
S. branch of the Potomac, about 4 miles below the county line. The S.
branch of the Potomac is formed by the junction of Streight and Crab
creeks, which have their rise in the N. W. part of the county, and flow a
N. E. course through the county, watering the valley which lays between
the Thorn and N. fork mountains. The soil in this valley is rich, and well
adapted to grass and grain. In this valley are 4 houses of public worship,
(1 on the head of Streight creek, and 1 on Crab creek,) the former 20, the latter
22 miles above Franklin, both of which belong to the Methodist; and
12 miles below, and another 13, one of which is Lutheran and the other
Methodist.

The S. branch is a pure and beautiful stream of water, and receives within
this county the following streams. 3 miles above Franklin, the Black Thorn
—10 miles below, Reed's creek—and 3 miles below this is Mill creek. Three
miles above Franklin, there is a rich saltpetre cave, from which a vast quantity
of nitre has been made, but the works are now idle. The entrance of
the cave is a small aperture near the base of a small mountain, and it extends
under ground for some miles.


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The next portion in order, is the north fork valley, which is watered by
the N. fork of the S. branch. It has its rise in the S. W. part of the county,
and flows a N. E. course, and after passing into Hardy county empties into
the S. branch a little below the county line, receiving in its course but one
stream of any note, which is known by the name of Seneca. The land in
this valley is good, and produces well both grass and grain. There are on
the N. fork 2 houses of public worship, (both Methodist,) and 1 store. Between
this and the main Alleghany mountain, there are two other ridges,
the local names of which are Timber Ridge and Spruce mountain. The
lands on these, as well as the other ridges of mountains in the county, are
of tolerable soil, and but thinly settled; but they afford an excellent range
for stock during the summer season, and give birth to a number of springs
of the best water. There are 2 other tan yards in this county besides those
already named. No merchant mills, but the valleys are well furnished
with common grist mills, carding machines,—blacksmiths, and other mechanics.

Population in 1820, 4,836—in 1830, 6,271. It belongs to the 14th
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,032 46—in 1834
on lots, $28 30—land, $656 38—280 slaves, $70 00—3530 horses,
$211 80—24 studs, $104 50—2 coaches, $4 00—16 carryalls, $16 00—
Total, $1090 98. Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $515 43
—in 1833, $520 93.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Crab Run, P. V. 154 ms. N. W.
by W. of R. and 196 S. W. by W.
of W., situated in the S. W. part of
the county. A house of public entertainment,
a grist and a saw mill,
a blacksmith's and a wheelwright's
shop are located here.

FRANKLIN, P. V. and seat of
justice,
171 ms. N. W. by W. of R.
and the same distance S. W. by W.
of W., in lat 38° 42′ and long 2°
26′ W. of W. C., situated on the north
bank of the South Branch of the Potomac,
20 miles from its source. It
contains besides the ordinary county
buildings, 30 dwelling houses, 1 common
school, 1 temperance and 1 bible
society, 2 mercantile stores, 2 tan
yards, 3 saddlers, 1 hatter, 2 house
carpenters, 1 cabinet and chair maker,
1 printing office, 1 tailor, 2 blacksmiths,
1 gunsmith, and 2 boot and
shoe makers. Population 250 persons;
of whom 2 are resident attorneys,
and 1 a regular physicisn.

County Courts are held on the
Wednesday succeeding the 1st Tuesday
in every month;—Quarterly in
March, June, September and November.

Judge Smith holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 2d of May and 3d of October.

Hull's Store, P. O. 164 miles
from R. and 206 W. of W.

Oak Flat, P. O. 176 ms. from R.
and 186 from W.

POCAHONTAS.

Pocahontas was established by act of the General Assembly in the
year 1821, and formed from a portion of the counties of Bath, Pendleton
and Randolph. It is bounded N. by Randolph,—E. by the Alleghany


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mountains which separate it from Pendleton and Bath,—S. by Greenbrier,
—and W. by Nicholas. Its mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 17½;
and its area 794 square miles. its mean lat. is 38° 20′ N. and long. 3° W.
of W. C. This county is one of the most elevated in the Union. Cheat
river, a branch of the Monongahela, rises in the northern part,—Gauley
river, a branch of the Great Kanawha, rises in the western part, and Greenbrier
river, a branch likewise of the Great Kanawha, rises in the extreme
northeastern part, and flowing in a southwestern direction, nearly parallel
with the main Alleghany range, passes through Greenbrier into Monroe,
on the border of which it unites with New river. Knapp's creek, the largest
tributary which the Greenbrier receives in this county, rises at the foot of
the Alleghany, flows for some distance along its base, and then turning at
right angles flows north west by Huntersville, and empties into the Greenbrier
a few miles below that town. The mean height of the arable soil of
Greenbrier county is 1700 feet above the level of the ocean, and as it is
situated lower down on the Greenbrier than the county of Pocahontas, it
is fair to presume that the height of the lowest part of the latter must be
at least equal to 1800 feet above the ocean, which is equivalent to four degrees
of latitude. Greenbrier mountain enters Pocahontas on the N. E.
and passes through to the S. W.—from its western side flow Gauley and
Elk rivers. The surface is very broken and rocky, but the southern part
is quite productive of all the staples common to the same latitude,—towards
the northeast the land is more barien. The principal timber which it produces
is white and black spruce, yew, pine, white oak, chesnut, sugar
maple, hickory, beech, walnut, buck-eye, &c. &c. The inhabitants are
honest, industrious, hospitable and enterprising citizens. Population in
1830, 2,541. It belongs to the 17th judicial circuit and 9th district. Tax
paid in 1833, $386 09—in 1834 on lots, $13 92—on land $199 36—136
slaves, $34 00—1154 horses, $92 76—6 studs, $29 00—1 coach, $2 00—
2 carryalls, $2 25. Total $373 29. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $211 29—in 1833, $157 28.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Cackley's P. O. 202 ms. N. W.
by W. of R. and 244 from W., situated
2 ms. W. of Greenbrier river,
immediately on the main post road
leading from Huntersville to Lewisburg,
12 ms. S. W. of the former,
and 36 N. E. of the latter place. It
contains several dwelling houses, 1
mercantile store, 1 oil mill, 1 carding
machine, 1 tan yard, &c. &c. The
country around is mostly level and
fertile, producing well Indian corn,
wheat, rye, oats, potatoes, flax, &c.,
and is an excellent grass country.
This is called the Little Levels. First
rate springs abound in almost every
direction, and most or all of them
sink again after running a short disance.

Green Bank, P. O. 200 ms. from
R. and 242 W. of W., situated on the
north bank of Deer creek, six miles
above its intersection with the Greenbrier
river, and 19 north of Huntersville.
This is merely a post office,
situated in the heart of a thickly settled
neighborhood, which contains 1
house of public worship, free for all
denominations, called Deer Creek
Union Meeting House, 5 common
schools, 1 well organized temperance,
bible, tract and sunday school society,
with a considerable library, 2 mercantile
stores, several excellent country
mills, and various other mechanics.
The land of the surrounding
country is beautifully diversified by
hill and dale. The soil is rich, producing


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in abundance wheat, rye, oats,
corn, &c. The principal pursuits of
the inhabitants are grazing and raising
stock. There are large quantities
of butter, venison hams, &c. taken
to market from this section of
country. The inhabitants are also
expert in the manufacture of sugar
from the maple tree. There is a very
great curiosity in the meanders of
Deer creek. About 5 miles below
Green Bank, the creek runs several
miles round a considerable hill, and
thence back within thirty poles of the
place it had passed, affording some
fine seats for manufactories, with sufficient
water power to force machinery
to any extent.

HUNTERSVILLE, P. V. and
county seat, 191 ms. N. W. by W.
of R. and 233 S. W. by W. of W.,
situated in lat. 38° 12′ N. and long
3° 1′ W. of W. C. It is situated between
Greenbrier and Alleghany
mountains, at an elevation above the
Atlantic of upwards of 1,800 feet, on
Knapp's creek, 6 miles from its junction
with the Greenbrier river. It
contains besides the usual county
buildings, 23 dwelling houses, (mostly
frame,) 3 mercantile stores, 2 taverns,
and 1 school in which the ordinary
branches of English education
are taught, 2 tailors, 2 house carpenters
and cabinet makers, 1 boot
and shoe maker, and 1 blacksmith
shop. There are in this place 2 well
organized bible classes, and 1 temperance
society. A turnpike road has
lately been located from the Warm
Springs in Bath county to Huntersville,
thence to intersect the northwestern
road between Clarksburg and
Parkersburg, or to strike the Ohio
river below the latter place. The
road when finished will add greatly
to the advancement of this village
and the surrounding country, there
being as fine lands in this section as
perhaps in any part of Virginia
Huntersville is 22 miles from the
Warm Springs, 65 from Beverly in
Randolph co and 48 from Lewisburg
in Greenbrier county. There are
near this village two sulphur springs,
said to possess good qualities. Population
125 persons; of whom 1 is a
resident attorney.

County Courts are held on the 1st
Tuesday
in every month; Quarterly
in March, June, August, and November.

Judge Taylor holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 2d of May and October.

Matthewsville, P. O. 205 ms.
from R. and 247 W. of W., situated
on the main post road leading from
Huntersville to Clarksburg, the county
seat of Harrison, 15 miles from
the former, and on Settlington's creek,
a branch of the Greenbrier, 2½ miles
from its junction with the river. This
post office is located in a densely settled
neighborhood, in its immediate
vicinity are a considerable number
of scattering dwelling houses, 1 house
of public worship. (Presbyterian,) 1
school house and 1 merchant mill,
with a population of about 400. The
land of the surrounding country is
fertile, producing wheat, rye, oats,
&c., but is more generally famed for
fine meadow and pasture grounds.

Knapp's Creek, P.O. 242 ms. S.
W. of W.

Traveller's Repose, P. O. 179
ms. from R. and 221 S. W. by W. of
W., situated in a thickly settled neighborhood,
on the head of Greenbrier,
between the north and east forks of
that river, immediately on the main
post road leading from Staunton to
Clarksburg, and 32 ms. from Huntersville,
the county seat. It contains
12 dwelling house, 1 tavern, 1 store,
and several mechanics. The soil is
productive of wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat,
potatoes, &c., affording excellent
pasturage for stock. It is bounded
by various mountains, the most
noted is the Alleghany on the east,
the Laurel Ridge on the west, and the
Elk mountain on the north—which


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still abounds with the elk. The soil
of these mountains is rich and affords
immense ranges for cattle, &c. The
timber is generally sugar maple,
chesnut, oak, and pine. The fir tree
is frequently met with here. The
Cheat mountain turnpike runs thro'
this place and the mail is received
once a week on horseback.

PRESTON.

Preston was created by the Legislature in 1818, from a portion of
Monongalia county. It is bounded N. by Fayette county of Pennsylvania,
—E. by Alleghany county of Maryland,—S. by Randolph,—and W. by
Monongalia. Its mean length is 30 miles, mean breadth 20; and area 601
square miles. Its mean lat. is 39° 30′ and long. 2° 38′ W. of W. C. Its
extent and population have been somewhat increased, though we do not
know precisely to what degree, since the taking of the last census and the
publication of Boyee's map of the State, by extending its eastern border to
the "Fairfax Stone," situated at the extreme southwestern angle of Maryland.
The main Alleghany chain runs near the eastern border of this
county, and the Chesnut ridge separates it from Monongalia on the west.
The body of the county is a valley between these two chains. Cheat river
enters the southern side and winds to the N. W. dividing the county into
two nearly equal sections.

The general face of the county is mountainous, interspersed on the eastern
and western sides with large natural meadows called "glades," which
afford support for large herds of cattle in summer, and in winter also, when
it is mown and cured for winter food. The glades are destitute of timber
but covered in summer with grass and weeds, with frequent projecting
points of timber, low bushes, &c. The soil of this section of the county
is better suited to grass than grain, though small quantities of corn and
wheat are grown in the glades, and abundant crops of oats, buckwheat and
rye. The alluvial or bottom grounds are small but productive and many
of the mountain and hill sides produce abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye,
oats, &c. The principal water is Cheat river, about 180 yards wide at the
Dunkard Bottom; though branches of the Monongahela and Youghiogany
water a large part of the county. The general strata of rock so far as
known, is a kind of sand stone, occasional portions of which are intermixed
with flinty pebbles so compact as to be used for mill stones to advantage;
but much of it is easily wrought for building houses, &c. Slate and limestone
is common; the county is abundantly supplied with bituminous coal,
and specimens of iron ore are often found. Population in 1820, 3,480—
1830, 5,144. This county belongs to the twentieth judicial circuit, and
tenth district. Tax paid in 1833, $437 91—in 1834 on lots, $24 54—
land $264 31—56 slaves, $14 00—1882 horses, $112 92—17 studs,
$73 50—2 carryalls, $3 00. Total $492 97. Expended in educating
poor children in 1832, $306 94—in 1833, $361 92.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Brandonville, P. V. 280 ms. N.
W. of R. and 202 from W. This is
a newly settled village, pleasantly
situated in the centre of a rapidly


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improving neighborhood, in the northern
section of the county, about four
miles from the Pennsylvania line, on
the road leading from Smithfield in
Pennsylvania to Morgantown, Virginia.
It contains 20 dwelling
houses, 1 house of public worship,
(Methodist,) 1 tavern, 1 tan yard, 1
saddler, 1 hatter, 1 wagon maker, 2
cabinet makers, 1 wheelwright and
chair maker, 1 silversmith, 1 tailor,
1 blacksmith shop, 2 mercantile
stores, 1 common school, 1 temperance
and 1 colonization society. Population
100.

Evansville, P. O. situated in the
western part of the county, near the
north western turnpike road.

German Settlement, P. O. 270
ms. from R. and 270 N. W. by W.
of W. situated 18 ms. S. E. of Kingswood.
This settlement, in the midst
of which is situated a small village
called Mount Carmel, took its name
from its first settlers, who were Germans.
It contains between 80 and
100 dwelling houses, besides mechanic's
shops, &c., 1 house of public
worship, free for all denominations, 2
mercantile stores. 3 grist mills, 4 saw
mills, 1 wool carding machine, 2 tan
yards, 2 gun smiths, 4 blacksmith
shops, 1 wheelwright, 1 wagon maker,
1 millwright, several house carpenters,
cabinet makers, house-joiners,
&c. But the principal pursuit
of the inhabitants is agriculture.
This settlement is watered by the
Youghiogany, the north fork of which
heads near Mount Carmel, and is
known by the name of Ryan creek.
Wolf creek which empties into Cheat
river, also heads near this place. The
soil is of the first quality, and productive
of all kinds of grain; and especially
productive of grass. An
abundance of potatoes and turnips are
raised in this section of country.
The climate is cool and salubrious
Pure springs of never failing water
flow in abundance through this settlement.
The principal staple commodities
raised for market, are live
stock of every discription, and large
quantities of butter of the first qualiity,
&c. This settlement, like many
others in Western Virginia, has been
sealed up ever since the settling of
the same, for want of suitable roads
for transportation through the Alleghany
mountains in order to unite in
commerce with the eastern country.
The northwestern turnpike road of
Virginia from Winchester to Parkersburg,
passes immediately through
the German Settlement. This road
is in rapid progress, and there is no
grade through the Alleghany mountains
that exceeds four and a half degrees.
This appropriation of money
by the Legislature of Virginia is of
the greatest utility to this section of
the State. The number of families
which may be called attached to this
settlement will not exceed 70, the aggregate
number of inhabitants about
500, and what may be further worthy
of remark (in Virginia,) that in this
number are not more than three or
four blacks.

KINGWOOD, P. V. and seat
of justice,
261 ms. from R. and 183
N. W. by W. of W., in lat. 39° 27′
N. and long. 2° 45′ W. of W. C.,
situated on a beautiful and healthy
eminence, 2 ms. W. of Cheat river,
20 E. of Morgantown, 43 from
Clarksburg, in Harrison county, and
60 from Beverly, in Randolph county.
It contains besides the ordinary county
buildings, which are substantially
built of stone, 25 dwelling houses, 3
mercantile stores, 1 tanyard, and various
mechanics. Population about
150 persons; of whom 3 are resident
attorneys, and 1 a regular physician.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday
in every month.—Quarterly
in March, May, August and November.

Judge Fry holds his Circuit Superior
Court of Law and Chancery
on the 1st of April, and September.


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RANDOLPH.

Randolph was established by act of Assembly in the year 1787, and
formed from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. by Preston,—
N. E. by the Alleghany mountain, which separates it from Hardy,—E. by
the same mountain, separating it from Pendleton,—S. by Pocahontas,—S.
W. by Nicholas,—W. by Lewis and Harrison,—and N. W. by Monongalia.
Its mean length is 66½ miles diminished by the difference which would
be occasioned by taking from it that portion which is laid down in our
maps as co-terminous with Maryland,—which has been added to Preston,—
its mean breadth 31, and its area 2,061 square miles, diminished by the
area of the above space alluded to extending in lat. from about 38° 18′ to
39° 11′ N. and in long. from about 2° 15′ to 3° 28′ W. of W. C.

This county is one of the finest on the western side of the Alleghany
mountains, and is made up of several parallel ranges of mountains with
their intervening vallies. The largest of these mountains commencing on
the east is the Alleghany, which runs north and south dividing this county
from Pendleton; the next in order are Rich, Middle and Shaver mountains,
running in the same direction. At the foot of the latter, flows Shaver's
Fork, which is stocked with some of the finest fish which the western waters
afford. This stream empties into the Monongahela, 12 miles below
Morgantown. The next mountain is the Valley mountain, which derives
its name from Tygart's valley. This valley constitutes a considerable portion
of the county, being about 35 miles in length, and 2 in breadth, and a
body of as fine land as any in Western Virginia, and in a high state of improvement.
Through this valley flows the middle branch of the Monongahela,
or Tygart's valley river, to which it gives source. The next mountain
is the Laurel, which runs also a north and south course, the whole
length of the valley; at the extremity of which it makes a bend and takes
a northeast direction, till it meets Cheat river, whence it flows nearly in a
north course, till it enters the State of Pennsylvania. At the foot of Tygart's
valley, where the Laurel hill makes its angle to the east, Chester river
breaks through the mountain. The valley and mountains presenting the
strongest evidence that at some early day they had formed a lake. These
mountains afford some of the finest streams of water in Western Virginia,
the principal of which are the Dry fork—Laurel fork—Glade fork—and
Shaver's fork—all handsome streams, having their rise in the S. W. part of
the county, running parallel within a few miles of each other, and after traversing
a considerable distance through the county emptying into Cheat river.
The mountains are well stocked with the finest timber, such as every description
of the oak, poplar, cherry, pine, fir, red cedar, &c.—and they are
almost a mass of stone coal and iron ore. The soil of these mountains is
very rich, and abounds with lime stone, slate and free stone. In some parts
of these mountains are found small caverns or caves, in which is found a
kind of copperas—fit for dye, and which is used for that purpose,—and
along some of the water courses is found the allum peeping out of the joints
of the rocks, forming in the shape of icicles. Among all these water courses
and low grounds are found salt springs. There has been salt made to a
considerable amount, but for the want of funds and men of enterprise, these
useful minerals remain in their natural state.

In this county are a considerable number of fine stock farms, which graze
and raise annually for market live stock of every description, which is the


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principal source of its wealth. There were raised and sent to market from
this county during the past year ending Nov'r 1st, 1833, 1,500 head of
horned cattle, 300 sheep, and 100 horses.

Population in 1830, 5,000. It belongs to the 18th judicial circuit, and
9th district. Tax paid in 1833, $618—in 1834, on lots, $16 56—on land,
$403 93—144 slaves, $36 00—2133 horses, $127 98—8 studs, $46 00—
3 coaches, $6 00—3 carryalls, $3 00—Total, $639 47. Expended in
educating poor children in 1832, $280 64—in 1833, $600 09.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

BEVERLY, P. V. and seat of
justice,
210 ms. N. W. by W. of R.
and 221 S. W. of W.—in lat 38° 50′
N. and long 2° 55′ W. of W. C.—
situated near the centre of Tygart's
Valley, near Tygart's Valley river,
on a handsome plain, stretched out between
Phillis's creek, and Dotson's
run. The former entering the river
a little above, and the latter about a
quarter of a mile below the town.—
Beverly contains besides the public
buildings, 3 mercantile stores, 2 taverns,
1 common school, 1 tanyard, 2
saddlers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 3
blacksmith shops, 1 hatter, 1 wagon
maker, 1 house carpenter, 2 tailors,
&c.—This village is distant 60 miles
nearly due S. from Morgantown, in
Monongalia county, and 45 S. E. of
Clarksburg, in Harrison county. The
Valley river has its source in the
mountain, and courses along nearly in
a northwardly direction through the
valley. The land on its borders possesses
a considerable degree of fertility;
and the eye in traversing it beholds
some fine mountain scenery,
(being completely environed with
spurs of the Alleghany mountain,) as
well as some handsome farms in a
high state of cultivation. Proceeding
down the Valley, at different points
from 12 to 18 miles below the town,
common roads cross the mountains,
leading to the lower, and thickly settled
parts of the county. As we proceed
down the Valley, at various intervals,
fine farms, mercantile stores,
and houses of public worship, for
Presbyterians, Baptists and Methodists,
are met with. This village contains
a population of 166 whites, of
whom two are resident attornies, and
two regular physicians,—16 slaves
and 2 free colored—Total, 184.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly

in March, June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and
Chancery are held on the 19th of April
and 13th September by Judge
Duncan.

Billsburg, P. O. 240 ms. from R.
and 224 from W.

Boothe's Ferry, P. O. 240 ms.
from R. and 299 W. of W.—Situated
on the east side of Tygart's Valley
river, 20 ms. N. W. of Beverly, and
30 S. E. of Clarksburg, in Harrison
county. Two considerable streams
enter Tygart's Valley river above this
P. O. Middle river 7 miles above,
and Buchanan river only four and a
half miles above. The P. O. is located
on a farm of rich bottom lands.
There are located at this point 3 dwelling
houses, 1 saw and 1 grist mill
running two pair of stones, and a
wool carding machine. There are in
the vicinity four coal banks, two of
which are within a few yards of the
boat landing; there is also a great
quantity of iron ore of the best quality,
within a few yards of the river
and near the coal banks. The soil is
good, and produces corn, wheat, rye,
oats, &c. in abundance, and is equal
to any country for timothy and clover.
The river is the line of separation between
Harrison and Randolph for


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about 4½ miles above, and as far below
as this county extends. It is about
40 miles to the mouth of this river, at
which point it unites with the West fork
river and becomes the Monongahela.
The river at this place is about 120
yards wide, and has to be crossed in
a boat about 8 months in the year.
The road leading from Clarksburg
crosses at this ferry. The northwestern
turnpike has been laid out to cross
about 16 miles below.

Glady Creek Cross Roads, P.
O. 244 ms. from R. and 220 from W.

Huttonsville, P. O. 199 miles
from R. and 231 W. of W. C.

Leedsville, P. V. 218 ms. from
R. and 229 from W.—situated at the
passage of Tygart's Valley river,
through the Laurel mountain, 8 ms.
N. N. E. of Beverly, on the main
post road leading from Philadelphia
and Baltimore through Winchester to
Pittsylvania, Pa. This is merely a
post office, situated on a farm in the
midst of a flourishing part of the
country.

Miegsville, P. V. 256 ms. from R.
and 208 W. of W. It contains 5
dwelling houses, 1 house of entertainment,
1 gunsmith, 1 blacksmith's shop,
1 tanyard, 1 saddler and a distillery.
In this little village is established a
small ingenious weaving manufactory,
with several looms of various descriptions,
executing a variety of figured
work. The soil of the surrounding
country is rich; and stone coal is every
where close at hand.

Skidmore's P. O.—The distances
are not given on the P. O. list.

Western Ford, P. O. 240 ms.
W. of R. and 251 from W.

Wyatt's Ferry, P. O. 245 ms.
from R. and 229 from W.

ROCKBRIDGE.

Rockbridge was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed
from a portion of Augusta and Botetourt counties. It is bounded N. by
Augusta,—E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Nelson,—S. E.
by the same mountain, separating it from Amherst,—S. by Bedford,—S. W.
by Botetourt, and W. by Alleghany and Mill mountains, a portion of the
Great Kittatinny chain which separates it from Alleghany, and N. W., by
the same separating it from Bath. Its mean lat is about 37° 45′ N. and
long. 2° 30′ W. of W. C.—Its mean length is 31 mean breadth 22; and
area 680 square miles. This county is principally watered by North river,
branch of James river, and its tributaries. It flows diagonally through the
county from the N. W. to the S. E. and joins the main branch of James
river at the foot of the Blue Ridge, when their united waters force a passage
through. The name of this county is taken from the celebrated Natural
Bridge,
of which an account is given below. There are in the county 10
mercantile stores, 6 iron forges, three furnaces, 13 houses of public worship,
(of which 9 are Presbyterian,) and 24 grist and merchant mills;
besides those mentioned in the Towns, Villages, &c. Much of the soil is
of the first quality, and generally in a high state of cultivation.

Population in 1820, 11,945—in 1830, 14,244. It belongs to the 12th judicial
circuit, and 6th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3131 41—in 1834, on
lots, $208 58—on land, $1831 33—2037 slaves, $509 25—5250 horses,
$315 00—21 studs, $206 00—37 coaches, $98 21—21 carryalls, $21 70
—7 gigs, $5 20—Total, $3195 27. Exponded in educating poor children
in 1832, $873 76—in 1833, $748 40.


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TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Balcony Falls, P. O. 153 ms.
from R. and 210 S. W. by W. of W.
These falls are situated on James river,
near the western extremity of the
James river canal, and form the dividing
line between the counties of Rockbridge,
Bedford, and Amherst. The
scenery near this spot is highly picturesque.
After toiling for a considerable
distance through a wild and
rugged country—on turning the sharp
angle of the mountain, the river suddenly
expands to the breadth, and assumes
the quiet and placid appearance
of a lake. Immediately opposite, two
of the most stupendous peaks of the
Blue Ridge, rise directly from the
banks. The whole stream is suddenly
narrowed by the projecting sides of
the mountain, and precipitates itself
in one entire sheet over an artificial
dam, which is extended across the bed
of the river, between the most elevated
points of the peaks. After the fall
the tumultuous stream is soon lost
sight of, by the windings of the channel.
The dam was erected for the
purpose of supplying with its back
water that portion of the canal which
runs upon the edge of the fall. This
portion of the canal, seven miles in
extent, was constructed by the state at
the cost of $280,000. About two
miles of this canal is in the county of
Rockbridge.

Bath Iron Works, P. O. 167
ms. W. of R. and 209 S. W. by W.
of W.—Situated in the southern part
of the county, on the northeastern
bank of James river, within ten miles
of its source,—15 miles from Lexington,—and
22 from the Warm Springs
in Bath county. These works consist
of a furnace and forge, both built
on an extensive scale—the furnace is
40 feet high, and calculated for making
30 tons of pig iron pr. week, but
has never yet reached that amount.
The forge is built for running six
fires, and will annually forge 300 tons
of bar iron—The furnace 700 tons of
pig metal, and a large quantity of
castings. The two consuming 300
thousand bushels of charcoal per annum.
The number of operatives employed
are sixty-five. Yet there are
something like 150 persons supported
by its operations, including women
and children. Attached to this establishment
is a large farm, a part of
which, supposed to be 350 acres, is
first rate bottom land,—by which the
proprietors are enabled to raise nearly
their full supply of grain; the quantity
required being 4,500 bushels;—
from 3,000 to 3,500 bushels of which
are raised annually from the farm.—
This establishment is owned by
Messrs A. W. & M. W. Davis.

Belle Valley, P. O. 147 ms. W.
of R. and 188 S. W. by W. from W.
—Situated in the northeastern part of
the county.

Brownsburg, P. V. 143 ms. N.
W. of R. and 185 from W.—Situated
12 miles N. E. of Lexington, on Maffits
creek, and on the direct route from
Staunton to Lexington. It contains
20 dwelling houses, 3 mercantile
stores, 1 tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler,
2 tailors, 3 wheelwrights, 1 cabinet
maker, 2 smith shops, 2 boot and shoe
factories, 1 house carpenter, 1 hatter,
1 manufacturing flour mill, and 1 grist
mill. In the immediate vicinity there
is a large and spacious house of public
worship, long known by the name
of New Providence meeting house
Population 120 persons; of whom
3 are physicians. Brownsburg is located
in a flourishing and thickly settled
neighborhood.

Buffalo Forge, P. O. 156 ms.
from R. and 206 from W.—Situated
8 miles W. of Lexington.

Cedar Grove, P. O. 145 ms. N.
W. of R.—Situated ten miles N. E.
of Lexington. It contains 2 mercantile
stores, and 1 manufacturing flour
mill.


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Fairfield, P. O. 144 ms. from
R. and 186 from W.—Situated on one
of the post routes from Lexington to
Staunton, 13 ms. N. N. E. from the
former, and 24 from the latter. It
contains about 20 dwelling houses, 1
house of public worship, free for all
denominations, 2 taverns, 1 mercantile
store, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 2 boot and
shoe factories, 2 house carpenters and
1 smith's shop. Population 130 persons;
of whom 2 are physicians.

Fancy Hill, P. O. 164 ms. from
R. and 206 S. W. of W. It is pleasantly
situated nine miles from Lexington,
in a fertile and well watered
country. It contains several dwelling
houses, 1 mercantile store, 1 extensive
tavern, well kept, and which receives
much company in the summer season,
and 1 tailor's shop. A physician resides
here.

Lebanon Forge, situated on the
North fork of James river. These
iron works, owned by Messrs. Mathews
& Bryan,
are now in extensive
operation, manufacturing pig metal
into bar iron. The establishment consists
of a forge, with a smith's shop
and saw mill as appendages. The
apparatus employed consists of three
refining fires, one chafry which draws
bar iron, and two forge hammers,
weighing from five to six hundred
weight each. The average amount
manufactured at this forge, from the
metal, or pigs, is one hundred and fifty
tons of bar iron annually. It requires
225 tons of metal, or pigs, to
make 150 tons of bar iron. The
number of operatives necessarily employed
at this establishment, in manufacturing
the iron, are 35, and the aggregate
number of persons supported
by it are 70. Ten hands are employed
in making the iron, 2 in the blacksmith's
shop, 1 sawyer, 4 colliers, 8
wood cutters, 2 wood carriers, 1 wagoner,
5 farmers, 1 clerk and manager,
and 1 overseer, the balance being
women and children;—out of the 35
actively employed, 8 have families.—
In the vicinity of this forge is a house
of public worship, (Methodist,) and 1
manufacturing flour mill. One mile
below this establishment is located
Maburry's Iron Works, employing
the same number of operatives as the
one above, the same quantity of machinery,
and manufacturing the same
weight of bar iron annually. The
country around is rich, and abounds
with iron ore of the first quality.

LEXINGTON, P. T. and Seat of
Justice,
156 ms. N. W. of R. and 198
from W. in lat. 37° 14′ N. and long.
2° 21′ W. of W. C.—situated on a
gentle ascent, a few rods from the
north bank of the North river, a
branch of James river, 10 miles above
its junction, and 35 N. W. of Lynchburg.
The act of Assembly of 1778,
which authorised the formation of the
county, also directed the location of
this town. Its buildings, like those
of all new towns, were constructed of
wood. In 1794 they were nearly all
destroyed by fire,—since that time,
they have been erected of more durable
materials, and with more regard
to regularity. The number of houses
it now contains, besides the ordinary
county buildings, are about 150, mostly
of brick, with 2 houses of public
worship, (1 Presbyterian and 1 Methodist.)
There are 8 mercantile stores,
4 taverns, 1 book store, 1 printing office,
from which a weekly paper is
issued, 2 tinplate works, 2 watch makers
and silversmiths, 3 hatters, 2 wagon
makers, 2 tanyards, 5 saddlers, 5
boot and shoe factories, 2 blacksmiths,
2 cabinet makers, 4 house carpenters
and 1 bricklayer.

Lexington was formerly the great
thoroughfare to the west, from the
more eastern parts of Virginia, and
though other more direct routes have
been established, it still continues to
be much travelled, by wagons from
Tennessee to Baltimore, &c. laden
with such articles, as will return
an ample profit, besides defraying
the expenses of transportation, &c.


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such as beeswax, tallow, feathers, and
other articles of produce. These wagons
return laden with goods for the
western merchants.

In the vicinity of Lexington is a
state arsenal, in which are deposited
about 30,000 stand of arms, guarded
by a Captain and 30 men.

An Academy was incorporated in
this town in 1782, under the name of
Liberty Hall Academy; and in 1812
it was chartered as a college, called
Washington College, from General
Washington, who endowed it with
100 shares in the James river canal,
which produced, in 1821, an annual
income of $2,400. "This donation
constitutes the only part of its funds
that are now productive, and may be
estimated at $25,000. Its other funds
consist also of donations, one devised
by a private citizen of Lexington, estimated
at $50,000, when relieved
from certain debts of the testator, and
another from the Cincinnati Society
of Virginia, on their voluntary dissolution,
amounting to $15,000, but not
yet drawn out of the hands in which
it was deposited; making in all $90,000."
There are two buildings of
brick, which afford accommodations
for 50 or 60 students; and a library
of 1,500 volumes. It is pleasantly
situated; its expenses for education
are not high; but its students have
never been very numerous.—Number
in 1833, 46.

A large, handsome and capacious
brick building has lately been erected,
intended for the philosophical apparatus,
&c. which are sufficiently ample.
The faculty consists of a president,
two professors, and a tutor.

Ann Smith Academy is also located
in this town for the education of
young ladies. It occupies a large and
handsome edifice, in which are teachers
of all the requisite branches of
such an institution. There are three
public libraries in this town.

Population not given in the tabular
returns of the last census, but supposed
to be about 900 persons; of whom 9 are
attorneys, and 4 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the
Monday before the 1st Tuesday in
every month;—Quarterly in March,
June, August
and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and
Chancery are held on the 16th of April
and September, by Judge Thompson.

Natural Bridge, P. O. 172 ms.
S. W. of R. and 213 S. W. by W. of
W.—situated in the southern part of
the county, in lat. 37° 33′ N. and long.
2° 34′ W. of W. C.

We present a faithful description of
this extraordinary natural curiosity
from the notes of a traveller, published
not long since in the periodical press.

"By the uniform admission of all
those who have visited this great natural
curiosity, it has justly acquired a
celebrity unequalled by any other in
this country, and the increasing number
of visiters to this place, still continues
to awaken the attention of the
curious and philosophic throughout
the world. Its location is in the county
of Rockbridge, to which it gives
name, 15 miles from Lexington, and
45 from Lynchburg, through one of
which places it is usually approached
by strangers. The mean height of
the bridge, from the stream running
underneath it to its upper surface, is
215 feet 6 inches, its average width is
80 feet, its length, measured across
from the indentations on either side of
the high and nearly perpendicular
rocks upon which it rests, is 93 feet,
and its thickness, on both sides, is 55
feet.

The stupendous arch constituting
the bridge is of lime stone rock, covered
to the depth of from 4 to 6 feet
with alluvial and clayey earth, and
based upon huge rocks of the same
geological character, the summits of
which are 90 feet, and their bases 50
feet asunder, and whose rugged sides
form the wild and awful chasm spanned
by the bridge. The bridge is


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guarded, as if by the design of nature,
by a parapet of rocks, and by trees
and shrubbery, firmly embedded in
the soil, so that a person travelling
the stage road running over it, would,
if not informed of the curiosity, pass
it unnoticed. It is also worthy of remark,
that the creation of a natural
bridge at this place has contributed,
in a singular manner, to the convenience
of man, inasmuch as the deep
ravine over which it sweeps, and
through which traverses the beautiful
"Cedar Creek," is not, otherwise,
easily passed for several miles, either
above or below the bridge; and, consequently,
the road running from north
to south with an aclivity of 35 degrees,
presents the same appearance in soil,
growth of trees and general character,
with that of the neighboring scenery.
The bridge is not to be seen,
therefore, in its native grandeur and
sublimity by passing over or around
it, but only from a position nearly under
it, or within the valley near by.

The first view commonly obtained
by strangers of the bridge, or its contiguous
scenery, is by an eager approach
to the edge of the bridge, or to the brink
of the right of it, & looking over into the
gulf below. Here language is incapable
of expressing the emotions with
which the scene is viewed, nor is it
possible for the imagination to sketch
the scene in a manner to equal the reality.
The spectator becomes suddenly
and forcibly impressed with the
apparent danger of his situation, and
trembling with fear, he involuntary
shrinks back and crouches to the
earth. As he approaches the brink
of the precipice, his eye is attracted to
the broad mass of perpendicular rock
upon the opposite side of the chasm,
and as he nears the jutting crags and
throws the sight along down the wild
and rugged sides, now boldly opposed
to his view,—straining with anxious
gaze to find a resting place, still perceiving
no termination to the yawning
abyss, a shuddering horror comes
over him, and a wild delirium seizes
his senses, and he unconsciously recoils
from the unfathomable gloom,
and the awful gulf below him! Hastening
from the spot, he becomes conscious
only of the irresistible influence
of the mind over the body, on
recognizing himself removed from
the scene of danger, still he is haunted
by the ideas to which the scene has
given birth, and which, resting unwillingly
upon his mind, often lash his
feelings into agonies!

Such are, indeed, the perceptions
and reflections of those of lively sensibility
and active cautiousness, who,
for the first time, visit this wonderful
and magnificent scenery; yet there
are those who view it with apparent
insensibility and unconsciousness, and
who steadily look down into the abyss,
"yet never suffer joint to tremble."

This view of "the great natural
curiosity" however, is but partial, and
even yet, incapable of calling up those
ideas of sublimity and greatness which
are afforded the spectator by another
position. Turning around the elevated
ground north of the bridge, and
coming gradually along to its southern
base, then winding around an
abrupt point of the hill, the anxious
spectator is brought into a foot path
declining along the rocks, beside the
cliff on the one side and the busy little
creek on the other, when, suddenly
looking upward, he beholds the splendid
arch of the bridge in all its sublimity
and natural grandeur. Here
indeed, does the astonished observer
find language too feeble to give utterance
to his impressions!

—"Fancy then;
Unequal fails beneath the task,
Ah! what shall language do?"

Mute astonishment succeeds the
emotions with which the stranger
had before been impressed, and now,
unconsciously fixed to the spot, he
gazes with wonder and admiration
upon the lofty arch, springing like a


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spirit over the tremendous gulf, and
throwing its massive sides and etherial
summit high against the heavens.

No adequate idea of the "Natural
Bridge" is to be obtained from the
efforts of either the pencil or pen, and
though both have attempted a description,
yet neither have approximated
reality. From this view, the beholder
is led to the comparison of natural objects
with which he has been familiar,
and himself shrinks into insignificance
when he becomes the subject
Never was there a more fit place to
observe the littleness of man, and the
omnipotence of God!—No reflective
mind can, with such a scene presented
to its faculties, remain unimpressed
with its own nothingness, and unaffected
by feelings of adoration to the
Great Supreme. With this view of
the subject before him, and "looking
from nature up to nature's God," the
language of the poet would not appear
to him inapt:—

In the vast and the minute we see
The unambitious footsteps of the God
Who gives the lustre to an insect's wing,
And wheels his throne upon the rolling world.

The relative position of the spectator,
at this time, and place, in regard
to the bridge and most of the stupendous
scenery connected with it, is decidedly
more favorable than any other.
Here within one grand view, is the
towering arch surmounted by high
trees, with vigorous foliage and sharp
projecting rocks, strongly implanted
in the soil. Here the whole of the
high, and apparently unsupported
mass, is cast boldly against the field
of deep blue sky, and thereby brought
out in vivid contrast and grand relief,
every object stands strongly pourtrayed
upon the broad etherial canvass,
while the varied tints, the sweeping
dashes of natural shades, the coarse
masses of deep black, with the occasional
brushes of strong lights, all are
well defined and deeply toned within
the rugged outlines, compose, en
masse, the most magnificent and finished
picture that ever came from the
hand of nature.

—Who can paint
Like nature? Can imitation boast,
Amidst his gay creation, hues like hers?

Here too, on either side, the precipitous
cliffs rise up in portentous
grandeur with

Pendant rocks that nod into the world,
And mock our eyes with air

The observer, anxious to get a view
of the whole of this rude and romantic
scenery, naturally traverses the ravine,
yet fearfully overawed by the
impending rocks, he feels in momentary
danger of being ground to dust
by the falling of projecting rocks, but
which, though held apparently by
feeble tenure, have maintained their
places for ages. On looking up from
under the bridge, the fear of destruction
from the overhanging mass becomes
almost irresistible, yet the
grandeur of the arch induces sufficient
curiosity to forego the apparent
danger. The bridge here presents its
most imposing appearance, though its
character is less sublime from the nature
of the position. The beholder
is here more forcibly struck with awe
and terror than from any other situation
in which it is viewed. The expansive
dimensions, the grand oversweeping
continuity, and the ponderous
massiveness of the entire rock are
here forcibly displayed to the wondering
gaze. Here also, running up beside
you to the very arch, are the
craggy abutments upon which it rests,
presenting altogether, the hugest body
of continuous rock ever at one time
thrown open to view.

Speculation is naturally put in operation
to account for the causes whereby
"with disruption vast," this rock
was cloven asunder. Although scientific
men may differ in many particulars
upon this subject, and although
it is both more common and


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more easy to say that the whole is a
phenominon caused "by some great
convulsion," than to assign reasons
and determine causes for this phenomenon,
yet, it is thought, no one who
has investigated the causes most likely
to produce this result, and the evidences
which those causes have left
behind, of their existence and operation,
will arrive at any other conclusion
than that the principle cause was
water. It will be observed that the
eastern or upper side of the bridge,
has been worn under for several feet,
that the part thus rounded, tunnel-like,
is smooth and unlike any other portion
of the contiguous rock, if we except
the indentation on the southern
side of the perpendicular rock, which
present similar appearances, evidently
produced from the same cause.—
Viewing the course of the ravine, and
the consequent direction of the water
which filled it, the indication of the
agency of water in the formation of
the bridge, is even more determinate
in the latter circumstance than in the
former. The projecting body of rock
upon the opposite side of the chasm,
running uniformly upward from its
base, and opposing an invulnerable
front, of sufficient magnitude to have
turned the current of the mighty waters,
and to have thrown its force directly
against those parts upon the
other side, where the peculiarities
before mentioned are seen, affords the
most natural proof of the influence of
water in the creation of the bridge.
Those who have observed the operation
of water in the wearing away of
rocks, the large and deep pot holes,
the rounded and smooth surfaces
given to rocks, by the long and continued
action of small stones, and the
friction of water, will here observe
similar appearances. The entire
mass of rock is of limestone, and
therefore more easily worn away than
silicious stone; whose more indurated
surfaces have fretted for ages against
it. Besides these evidences of the
agency of water, there are in the
neighborhood of the bridge, numerous
and certain proofs of there having
been vast bodies of water which
poured down the surrounding vallies
and ravines, overtopping some of the
high hills, and embodying themselves,
at last, within this grand reservoir.
The magnificent and rocky sides of
this great depository, which is of
nearly uniform height for some two
or three miles above, directed the accumulated
waters down against the
firm bridge. Here they are met with
this bold obstruction throwing itself
proudly athwart the rushing waters,
as if saying, in a spirit of defiance,
"thus far thou shalt come and no farther!"
Forced from its course by this
obstinate and haughty barrier, the
overflowing current was turned
round the declivity on the south, and
ran down the hill about the points of
rocks, and came again into the deep
valley some thirty rods below. Along
its diverted channel may be seen all
the evidences of a water course pouring
over a rocky bed.

The proudly opposing rock was
not destined, however, to stop forever
the march of the dashing stream, and
in process of time, the onward force
of the current, with the means which
it had brought to its aid, prevailed,
and increasing its force with every
advantage, the breach enlarged and
admitted, at length, the stream to roll
forward for ages unresisted. Upon
the summit of distant hills are to be
found marine fossils, and their impressions
within the fragments of partially
decomposed limestone rocks,
while along their sides and within the
vallies are pot-holes, smooth fissures
and rounded points of rocks, all of
which prove the existence and action
of water at these places at some period
of time; the course and parallel of
these indications, are also directed towards
the great receptacle as before
intimated.

(The undulating surface of the surrounding


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country must have presented
from the bridge, when thus admitting
the varied streams to dash along its
vallies, one of the most splendid scenes
in nature.)

The chasms, both east and west of
the bridge, do not afford strong evidences
of the continued action of water,
but rather of some violent rending
of the massive rock. And this
may be rationally supposed, without
opposing the conclusions to which we
have arrived in regard to the agency
of water in the formation of the
bridge; yet even this is reconcileable
with the solution of this phenomenon,
by supposing portions of the rock to
have fallen, from time to time, by the
action of water within the fissures, or
to have been cleft off by objects carried
forcibly down the current of the
stream. The theory of an immense
cavern terminated at the bridge, and
opening from either side, is certainly
plausible, and does not militate against
that so manifestly true, in respect to
the bridge. The summit of this cavern
is supposed to have extended
along the ravine and high precipitous
rocks, for some distance, and eventually
to have fallen down, by which
the deep chasm is laid open to view.
This is believed by some, at least,
whose judgment and scientific knowledge
are entitled to the utmost respect.

It may appear to the curious worthy
of remark, that in the centre of
the grand arch, under the bridge,
there is to be observed with outspread
wings, the American Eagle of gigantic
size, covering with one of its wings,
the head of the British Lion. These
objects certainly appeared plainly delineated
to the writer, as they have
ever appeared to all to whom they
have been pointed out. Others have
also discovered the head of Washington
and various other objects, but
which it was not permitted to the ken
of the writer to discover.

These appearances are formed by
moss hanging from the high overhanging
arch. To this arch it has
ever been the attempt of visiters to
throw a stone, and we recollect it to
have been stated, years gone by, that
the only successful competitor, in this
feat of physical power was General
Washington, who, it was also said,
cut his name higher than any other
person, upon the perpendicular rock.
It is, certainly, a feat requiring no
common degree of personal strength
to throw a stone to the bridge, and
few have been successful in the attempt;
though one individual is said
to have thrown upon the very summit,
(probably with a sling,) from
whence the stone was taken at the
time. Names are to be seen "in every
variety" along the rocks and upon
the sides under the bridge, but that of
Washington is not now to be discovered.
A young man, it is said ambitious
to cut his name above that of
Washington, became so situated, up
the towering cliff, that he was unable
to recover himself, or to descend: to
effect the one, he would inevitably incur
the certainty of being precipitated
to the bottom, while to climb still higher
and gain the top, appeared impossible.
In this state of awful uncertainty,
between the possibility of life
and a dreadful death, little hope appeared
to the one, while the other
seemed certain, and urged by an effort
as desperate as the love of life, he
attempted to ascend to the giddy
height. This alternative nerved him
with more than mortal power, and
strange as it may seem to every one
who may ever look at the spot from
whence he started, the shuddering
height at which he aimed, and the
apparent impossibilities he surmounted,
he arrived nervless and prostrate
at the verge, and—was safe.

Visiters to the "Natural Bridge of
Virginia," will ever find a rich and
varied field for observation; for, in
addition to the objects of curiosity
which have been enumerated and de-


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scribed, "the overhanging rocks" and
numerous other grand and interesting
objects up the valley and within the
neighborhood, there is "Powell's
mountain," upon which are found the
marine fossils before mentioned, and
within which are "Johnson's cave,"
affording an easy descent among a
variety of subterranean cavities, and
"Chapin's cave" of yet unfathomable
depth. And last, though not least,
among the objects of consideration
with visiters to these interesting and
romantic scenes, Mr. Johnson, the
gentlemanly and accommodating proprietor
of the public house at the
bridge, will afford every facility for
their observation and every means for
their enjoyment."

Panther's Gap, P. O. 195 ms.
S. W. of W. and 154 from R. In
the vicinity of this post office, the
Blowing cave is situated. This natural
curiosity is situated 12 ms. S. E.
of the Warm Springs, in the ridge
which divides the Cow and Calfpasture.
It is a large cavity in the side
of a hill, of about 6 feet in diameter,
and emits constantly a current of air.
This current is strongest in dry frosty
weather, and in long spells of rain
weakest. Regular inspirations and
expirations of air, by caverns and fissures
have been probably enough accounted
for, by supposing them combined
with intermitting fountains, as
they must of course inhale air, while
their reservoirs are emptying themselves,
and again emit it while they
are filling. But a constant issue of
air, only varying in its force as the
weather is dryer or damper, will require
a new hypothesis. There is
another Blowing cave in the Cumberland
mountains, about a mile from
where it crosses the Carolina line, all
we know of this is, that it is not constant,
and that a fountain of water
issues from it.

ROCKINGHAM.

Rockingham was established by act of Assembly in 1778, and formed
from a portion of Augusta county. It is bounded N. by Shenandoah,—N.
E. by Page,—E. by the Blue Ridge which separates it from Orange and
Albemarle,—S. by Augusta,—W. by the North mountain which separates
it from Pendleton,—and N. W. by Hardy. Its mean length is 34⅔ miles,
mean breadth 24; and area 833 square miles. Its mean lat. is 37° 30′ N.
and long. 1° 45′ W. of W. C. The main Shenandoah runs through the
eastern portion of the county,—North river drains the southern part,—
North Fork of Shenandoah drains the northern and northwestern portion
and after running through Shenandoah it unites with the main branch soon
after it enters Frederick, a few miles from Front Royal,—Smith's creek a
branch of North Fork drains the central portion of the county, and passes
into Shenandoah before it joins North Fork. The western part of this
county is very mountainous, and the Peaked mountains run up from Shenandoah,
between the Shenandoah and Harrisonburg. Much of the soil
is excellent, and the farming econominal and judicious. A large portion
of the population is German or of German origin. Population in 1820,
14,784—1830, 20,683. It belongs to the fourteenth judicial circuit and
seventh district. Tax paid in 1833, $4,821 64—in 1834 on lots, $167 41
—on land $3,556 60—1189 slaves, $296 74—7446 horses, $446 76—39
studs, $279 00—41 coaches, $88 05—68 carryalls, $68 37—34 gigs,


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$25 10. Total $4,928 04. Expended in educating poor children in 1832,
$890 05—in 1833, $990 01.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Bowman's Mills, P. O. 145 ms.
N. W. by W. of R. and 155 from
W., situated in the N. W. part of the
county 23 ms. N. N. W. of Harrisonburg.

Brock's Gap, P. O. 150 ms. N.
W. of R. and 160 from W.

Conrad's Store, P. O. 120 ms.
N. W. of R. and 132 from W.

Cross Keys, P. O. 130 ms. from
R. and 140 S. W. by W. of W.

HARRISONBURG, P. V. and
seat of justice, 122 ms. from R. and
144 S. W. by W. of W., in lat. 38°
25′ and long. 1° 48′ W. of W. C.
situated 24 ms. N. N. E. of Staunton
and 40 N. N. W. of Charlottesville.
This village contains besides
the ordinary county buildings, 125
dwelling houses, a neat brick market
house lately erected, 2 houses of public
worship, (1 Methodist, and 1 Presbyterian,)
3 common schools, 1 temperance
and 1 sunday school society,
8 mercantile stores, 3 taverns, and 1
printing office, issuing a weekly paper.
There are 2 tan yards, 4 saddlers,
4 boot and shoe factories, 3
smith shops, 3 hatters, 2 tailors, 2
wagon makers, 2 gunsmiths, 2
wheelwrights and chair makers, 1
cabinet maker, 2 coppersmiths, and
tin plate workers, 1 saddle-tree maker,
1 glove maker, 1 bookbindery, 2
watchmakers and silversmiths, 1 marble
cutter and polisher, a quarry of
which is in the immediate neighborhood,
and in considerable demand, 1
confectionary, and 1 earthen ware
pottery. There is a fine spring of
strong limestone water in the public
square,—and the land adjacent is a
strong limestone soil. Deaton is 4
miles from this place, and Edom
Mills are 5 miles distant; they are
both small but flourishing places; as
is also Mount Crawford, at which
considerable business is done both
mechanical and mercantile. These
three having sprung up within a few
years under the auspices of men of
capital and enterprise, together with
other causes have rendered Harrisonburg
less prosperous than villages
in this valley generally. Population
about 1000 persons; of whom 8 are
resident attorneys, and 8 regular
physicians.

County courts are held on the 3d
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in February, May, August, and
November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 10th
of May
and 11th of October by Judge
Smith.

Kite's Mills, P. O. 131 ms. from
R. and 122 W. of W.

Linville Creek, P. O. 136 ms.
from R. and 146 W. of W.

McGaheysville, P. O. 114 ms.
from R. and 136 from W.

Mount Crawford, P. V. 138 ms.
from R. and 148 S. W. by W. of W.
situated in the western part of the
county, on the main valley road leading
from Winchester to Staunton, and
immediately on the North river. It
contains 25 dwelling houses, 1 house
of public worship free for all denominations,
2 common schools, 2 taverns,
3 mercantile stores, 2 tailors, 2 saddlers,
2 boot and shoe factories, 1
smith shop, 1 tin plate worker, 1
cabinet maker, 1 wheelwright, 1
cooper, 1 pottery, 2 milliner and mantua
makers, 1 gun smith, 1 wagon
maker, 1 manufacturing flour mill,
and 1 saw mill. The North river is
navigable for flat boats, about three
miles above this village, and considerable
quantities of flour are annually
carried down the Shenandoah from
this place to Georgetown and Alex-


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andria. The surrounding country is
fertile and the climate salubrious.
Population 180 persons; of whom 1
is a physician.

Port Republic, P. V. 121 ms.
from R. and 143 N. W. by W. of W.
situated at the junction of the North
and South rivers, branches of the Shenandoah,
2 ms. below the Augusta line,
2½ from Weyer's cave, 12 ms. S. of
Harrisonburg, 20 E. of Staunton, and
32 north of Charlottesville. It contains
30 dwelling houses, 1 house of
public worship, free for all denominations,
1 common school, 1 house
of entertainment, 2 mercantile stores,
1 manufacturing flour mill, 3 saw
mills, 2 tan yards, 1 tilt hammer shop,
with a carriage manufactory attached,
2 other smith shops, 1 tin plate worker,
3 boot and shoe factories, 1 saddler,
1 cabinet maker, 1 turner and
chair maker, 1 hatter, and 2 tailors.
The Shenandoah is navigable for
flat boats from Port Republic to the
District of Columbia, running at all
times (except at very dry seasons)
with from 60 to 120 barrels of flour
in each boat. Both branches of the
river furnish admirable seats for machinery,
and the water power is sufficient
at all seasons for manufactories
of any common extent. Population
160 persons, of whom 1 is a
physician.

Smith's Creek, P. O. 140 ms.
from R. and 130 S. W. of W., situated
in the northern part of the county.
The creek is the extreme southern
branch of the North Fork of the
Shenandoah.

RUSSELL.

Russell was established by act of Assembly in 1786, and formed from
a portion of Washington county. It is bounded by Tazewell N. E.—by
Clinch mountain separating it from Smyth E.—S. E. by the same mountain,
separating it from Washington,—S. and S. W. by Scott,—and by the
Cumberland mountain separating it from Pike county, Ky., N. W. Its
mean length is 40 miles, mean breadth 34¼, and area 1,370 square miles.
It lies between 36° 38′ and 37° 30′ N. lat. and 4° 43′ and 5° 41′ W. long.
from W. C.

Mountains, &c.—The Clinch, which divides it from Washington and
Smyth on the south; the Cumberland on the north separating it from
Kentucky, are the most prominent. Their general bearing is from N. E.
to S. W. Between the waters which fall into the Clinch and the tributaries
of Sandy, and only a few miles north of the Clinch, (with a few exceptions
on the Guess' river, and a short distance east of it,) until you arrive
at the Cumberland mountain, the country seems to be a congregation
of mountains.
Their sides are generally steep,—the valleys narrow,—
most of them of not much greater extent than the space which is occupied
by the meandering streams which, overhung with laurel, pass on in
silent obscurity to their respective destinations. A few scattered inhabitants
are occasionally to be seen here, who cultivate a small strip of land
on a watercourse, and follow the chase on the mountains, as the means of
subsistence. Amongst these mountains there are excellent ranges for cattle
and hogs, which continues throughout the year except in the more severe
freezes and snows of winter. Travelling here must be performed either
by following the hunter's path on the mountains, with but few places of
safe descent, or pursuing the watercourses; it being impracticable, with a


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few exceptions, to cross the mountains with the view of a direct approach
from one point to another. There are two ranges of highland, running
nearly parallel with each other and the Clinch mountain,—one between
Mocasin creek and Copper creek, denominated Mocasin ridge,—the other
between Copper creek and Clinch river, called Copper ridge. These
ridges are cut by Big Cedar creek, east of which the former is denominated
the Chesnut ridge and Preec's mountain, and the latter the River, and
House and Barn mountain. Kent's ridge lies between the Maiden Spring
Fork and North Fork of Clinch river; and north of the latter is the Stone
mountain.
The Big Butt north of Clinch river, is a high projection of
one of the mountains separating the waters of Clinch and Sandy.

Rivers, Creeks, &c.—Clinch river, which meanders across the county in a
N. E. and S. W. direction, is the principal stream, but has not as yet been
used for transporting produce to the west, or for other purposes of navigation.
This river affords an abundance of fish, some varieties of which are
quite delicious. The North Fork (of Clinch) and the Maiden Spring
Fork
which take their rise in Tazewell county, unite their waters in the
eastern section of Russell. Guess' river, which divides Russell and Scott
has various sources from spurs of the Cumberland and adjoining mountains,
and flows in a southern direction into the Clinch, receiving in its
course Tom's creek on the south, and Bull Run, two of its principal streams.
Copper creek has its source from numerous fine springs filled with yellow
gravel, rising a few miles east of the village at Dickensonville, and passes
on to the southwest, uniting with Clinch river in Scott county. Moccasin
creek
rises near a gap in Clinch mountain by that name, flows near its
base in a fruitful valley, and passing through Big Mocasin Gap, falls into
the North Fork of Holston: Cedar creek is formed by streams issuing
from the Clinch, Preec's, and the House and Barn mountains, it flows in
a western-direction till within 2 miles east of Lebanon receiving little
Cedar creek which passes the village, and then flows into the Clinch in a
northern direction. Indian creek runs from the eastern end or termination of
Preec's mountain and from the spurs of Clinch mountain, and flows in a
north east and north direction into the Clinch river. Lewis' creek, Thompson's
creek, Weaver's creek,
and Dump's creek, are inconsiderable streams,
falling into Clinch river on the north; and Cedar Spring, Beck's branch,
Mill creek,
and Castle Run on the south. The principal streams of the
Sandy is the Louisa Fork in the northeastern section, running nearly north
west; The Pound Fork (so called from a bend in the river resembling
somewhat in shape a horse shoe) takes its rise towards the Guess' river,
runs east near to Cumberland mountain and unites, with McClure's Fork,
and afterwards Russell's Fork at the state line of Kentucky. There is a
remarkable cascade upon Big Cedar creek. In its passage through Copper
ridge its waters are precipitated over a rock of considerable height,
and they then wander in a circuitous route of many miles to seek a union
with the Clinch river, which here runs at a short distance from it by a
direct line, and which also rolls over a very shoally and serpentine channel
above and below their junction, and at one place is very narrow and
rapid, occasioned by the projection of rocks from the north side. The
whole county occupies an elevated region, independent of the mountain
ridges, from 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the ocean tides.

Roads.—By a late act of Assembly a road has been established on the
joint stock plan, leading from Price's turnpike in Botetourt to Cumberland


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Gap, which will pass through Lebanon. Its route was surveyed by the
Engineer to cross Copper ridge, 3 miles west of Lebanon, and through
Castles' Woods, into Scott, &c. Its location by the Copper creek valley so
as to cross Copper ridge in Scott county, is strongly recommended by some,
and the people on both routes are engaged with spirit in working out the
respective advantages. The road from Lebanon to Abingdon passes by
the way of Little Mocasin Gap,—that to the Salt Works in Washington,
and Smyth, by Hayter's Gap,—that to Scott C. H. (Estillville,) either by
Dickensonville, or down the valley of Mocasin Creek. A road has been
opened along the Louisa Fork of Sandy, as a line of communication with
Kentucky, aided by an appropriation from the State of $3000; but it was
so injudiciously located and badly constructed, that it is almost impassable.
A track has also been opened from Castle Woods, via Guess' river and the
Pound Fork of Sandy, to the State of Kentucky, passing Cumberland
mountain, communicating with Pike and Perry counties, Ky.

Meeting Houses.—The Episcopalians, Methodists, and Baptists have
about 12 meeting houses in this county, besides various other places of
meeting at private houses. There is no other sect having a congregation,
society or church. The Methodists are the more numerous body of christians.

Manufactures.—There are no merchant mills (properly speaking) in
Russell. Hendrick's on Cedar creek is the best establishment of that kind;
flour from it is sometimes sent down the Holston and Tennessee to Huntsville.
There are no factories of iron, wool, or cotton in this county, except
carding machines, although there are many sites suitable for water
power. Capital, and an opening for market, are wanting to give encouragement
to these branches of industry.

Productions.—This county having many parcels of rich and fertile soil,
produces in abundance most of the necessaries of life. Indian corn, wheat,
rye, oats clover, and the grasses introduced, succeed well; but its distance
from market and the late neglected state of improvement of the roads, have
hitherto compelled the farmer to rear stock as the principal means of advancing
his estate.

There are several quarries of marble not far distant from Lebanon, of a
greyish complexion. It is used for tomb stones, and for the fronts of hearths.
Some specimens of it have been taken to the South. The lime stone is a
prevailing mineral in the southern section of this county; amongst it are
found many caverns, few of which, however, are of much notoriety.
There are two remarkable rocks upon the range of mountain between
Clinch river and the upper waters of Big Cedar creek in the eastern part
of the county; the one from its form is called a house, and the other a barn,
and hence the name of the House and Barn mountain. Several extensive
beds of iron ore exist in this county, but are not at present worked. Stone
coal
is found in some of the ravines north of Clinch river, and is deemed of
excellent quality by the blacksmiths who use it.

This county had its name in honor of Gen'l William Russell, who
formerly resided on an estate of about 600 acres in Castles Woods, but who
at the time of his death lived near to and had an interest in Preston's old
Salt works, in Washington county, now Smyth.

The principal population of this county is contained between Clinch
mountain and a distance of from 12 to 15 miles north of its base: the
northern and greater portion of its territory being so mountainous, sterile,


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and inconvenient of access, that the population is, and will be for many
years hence, very inconsiderable. There are several rich and valuable
sections of land in this county: the principal are, Gilmer's Settlement, between
Lebanon and Big Cedar creek,—Elk Garden, in the vicinity of
Hayter's Gap,—Castle's Woods, between Copper ridge and Clinch, west
of Lebanon,—and the Mocasin Valley, lying between a ridge of that name
and Clinch mountain opposite and below Little Mocasin Gap. In these
sections the first settlements of the country were made.

Professions.—There are two resident attornies in the county, one living
in the village at Lebanon, and the other in the country;—one resident physician
in Lebanon and two in the country: but the exemption heretofore of
this section of the State from many of the diseases prevalent more frequently
in other places; and the scarcity of litigation in the Courts, have not
presented either to the one or the other, the prospect of much gain from a
reliance upon their respective professions.

Early Traditions.—In this part of Virginia, as in most other frontier
settlements, the first settlers encountered many hardships, and experienced
many scenes of dreadful suffering from the hostile Indians, who made frequent
incursions from beyond the Ohio river for purposes of plunder, or
savage revenge. In these incursions the most tragic scenes of cold blooded
butchery were acted, and the survivors sometimes carried into a captivity
more painful and distressing than the excruciating deaths to which
their relatives had been subjected. Many well authenticated accounts of
these cruelties, and of hair-breadth escapes, are still preserved. We give
in a note[43] an example of the sufferings and heroism displayed by the early


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settlers, in the narrative of Mrs. Scott of Powell's Valley, which is now in
Lee county, but which was formerly in Russell, and before its formation, in
Washington county, which was published in the New Haven Gazette of
Dec. 27th, 1785.


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Population in 1820, 5,536—in 1830, 6,714. This county belongs to the
fifteenth judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1833, $668 60—
in 1834 on lots, $22 54—on land, $247 00—366 slaves, $91 50—3301
horses, $198 06—23 studs, $103 00—7 carryalls, $7 00—Total, $669 98.
Expended in educating poor children in 1832, $418 44—in 1833, $485 64.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Bichley's Mills, P. O. situated
in Castle's Woods.

Clifton, P. O. 312 ms. S. W. of
R. and 374 from W., situated on the
Maiden Spring Fork.

Dickensonville, P. O. This
village was formerly the seat of justice,
but since that has been removed
to Lebanon, it is almost depopulated,
and the houses in a state of dilapidation.

LEBANON, P. V. and seat of
justice,
330 ms. from R. and 394 S.
W. by W. of W., in lat 36° 53′ N.
and long. 5° 03′ W. of W. C., situated
about 130 ms. N. E. by E. of
Knoxville, Ten., on Little Cedar
creek, a branch of Clinch river having
its source in Clinch mountain,
on a southern inclination, near the
centre of the population of the county.
It is well watered by springs,
and commands a beautiful prospect of
Clinch mountain on the south, whose
lofty summits present an almost unbroken
range from Little Moccasin
to Hayter's Gap, a distance of 12
miles. On the left of the latter gap,
and directly east of this village, the
mountain rises to a considerable
height and is covered on the summit
with evergreens,—amongst which is
the balsam tree, from which a resinous
substance is extracted, and which is
celebrated as useful in the cure of
chronic diseases. This village was
located in 1816, and in 1818 the seat
of justice was established here. The
court house which is of stone, is the
only permanent building in the place,
the rest being all wooden tenements
and most of them rather indifferent.
It contains 6 mercantile stores, 1
grocery, 2 tan yards, 2 blacksmiths,
2 tailors, 1 hatter, 1 cabinet maker,
and in the vicinity, 1 school house.
The main road from Botetourt, thro'
Montgomery and Giles to Cumberland
Gap, passes through this village,
and will when completed, contribute
much to the prosperity of this place
and the adjoining country.

County Courts are held on the
Tuesday after the first Monday in
every month;—Quarterly in March,
June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 3d
Monday in April and September,
by
Judge Estill.

 
[43]

A NARRATIVE of the Captivity and Escape of Mrs. Frances Scott, of Washington
county, Va.

On Wednesday, the 29th day of June, 1785, late in the evening, a large company
of armed men passed the house on their way to Kentucky; some part of whom encamped
within two miles. Mr. Scott, living on a frontier part, generally made the
family watchful; but on this calamitous day, after so large a body of men had passed,
he lay down in his bed and imprudently left one of the doors of his house open;
the children were also in bed and asleep. Mrs. Scott was nearly undressed, when to
her unutterable astonishment and horror, she saw rushing in through the door that
was left open, painted savages with presented arms, raising a hideous shriek. Mr.
Scott, being awake, instantly jumped from his bed, but was immediately fired at; he
forced his way through the middle of the enemy and got out of the door, but fell a
few paces from thence. An Indian seized Mrs. Scott, and ordered her to a particular
spot and not to move; others stabbed and cut the throats of the three youngest
children in their bed, and afterwards lifted them up and dashed them on the floor
near the mother; the eldest, a beautiful girl of eight years old, awoke and escaped
out of the bed and ran to her mamma with the most plaintive accents, cried, "O
mamma! mamma! save me!"—the mother in the deepest anguish of spirit, and with
a flood of tears, entreated the savages to spare her child: but with a brutal fierceness
they tomahawked and stabbed her in the mother's arms. Adjacent to Mr. Scott's
dwelling-house another family lived of the name of Ball. The Indians also attacked
them at the same instant they did Mr. Scott; but the door being shut, the enemy
fired into the house through an opening between two logs, and killed a lad, and then
essayed to force the door open: but a surviving brother fired through the door, and
the enemy desisted and went off, the remaining part of the family ran out of the
house and escaped. In Mr. Scott's were four good rifles loaded, belonging to people
that had left them on their way to Kentucky.—The Indians loaded themselves with
the plunder, being thirteen in number, then speedily made off, and continued travelling
all night; next morning their chief allotted to each man his share, and detached
nine of the party to steal horses from the inhabitants on Clinch. The eleventh
day after Mrs. Scott's captivity, four Indians that had her in charge stopped at a
place fixed on for rendezvous, and to hunt, being now in great want of provisions.
Three went out, and the chief being an old man was left to take care of the prisoner,
who by this time expressed a willingness to proceed to the Indian towns, which
seemed to have the desired effect of lessening her keeper's vigilance. In the daytime
while the old man was graining a deer skin, the captive, pondering on her situation,
and anxiously looking for an opportunity to make her escape, took a resolution
and went to the Indian carelessly: asked liberty to go to a small distance to a stream
of water to wash the blood off her apron, that had remained besmeared since the
fatal night of the murder of her little daughter. He told her in the English tongue,
"go along;" she then passed by him, his face being in a contrary direction from that
she was going, and he very busy. She, after getting to the water, proceeded on without
delay, made to a high barren mountain, and travelled until late in the evening,
when she came down into the valley in search of the track she had been taken along;
hoping thereby to find the way back, without the risk of being lost and perishing
with hunger in uninhabited parts.

On coming across the valley to the river side,—supposed to be the easterly branch
of Kentucky river—she observed in the sand, tracks of two men that had gone up
the river and had just returned. She concluded these to have been her pursuers,
which excited emotions of gratitude and thankfulness to Divine Providence for so
timely a deliverance. Being without any provisions, having no kind of weapon or
tool to assist her in getting any, and almost destitute of clothing—also knowing that
a vast tract of rugged high mountains intervened between where she was and the
inhabitants easterly, and she almost as ignorant as a child of the method of steering
the woods, excited painful sensations. But certain death, either by hunger or wild
beasts, seemed to be better than to be in the power of beings who excited in her mind
such horror.—She addressed Heaven, and taking courage proceeded onward.

After travelling three days, she had nearly met with the Indians, as she supposed,
that had been sent to Clinch to steal horses, but providentially hearing their approach,
concealed herself among the cane until the enemy had passed.—This giving her a
fresh alarm, and her mind being filled with consternation, she got lost, proceeded
backwards and forwards for several days; at length she came to a river that seemed
to come from the east—concluding it was Sandy river, she accordingly resolved to
trace it to its source, which is adjacent to the Clinch settlement. After proceeding
up the same several days, she came to where the river runs through the great Laurel
mountain, where is a prodigious waterfall, and high craggy cliffs along the wateredge;
that way seemed impassable, the mountain steep and difficult;—however, our
mournful traveller concluded the latter way was best.—She therefore ascended for
some time, but coming to a range of lofty and inaccessible rocks, she turned her
course towards the foot of the mountain and the river side; after getting into a deep
gulley, and passing over several high steep rocks, she reached the river side, where
to her inexpressible affliction she found that a perpendicular rock, or rather one that
hung over, of fifteen or twenty feet high, formed the bank.—Here a solemn pause
ensued; she essayed to return, but the height of the steeps and rocks she had descended
over prevented her. She then returned to the edge of the precipice, and
viewing the bottom of it as the certain spot to end all her troubles, or remain on the
top to pine away with hunger, or be devoured by beasts. After serious meditation
and devout exercises, she determined on leaping from the height, and accordingly
jumped off. Although the place she had to alight was covered with uneven rocks,
not a bone was broken; but being exceedingly stunned by the fall, she remained
unable to proceed for some space of time.

The dry season caused the river to be shallow—she travelled in it, and, where she
could, by its edge, until she got through the mountain, which she concluded was
several miles. After this, as she was travelling along the bank of the river, a venomous
snake bit her on the ancle; she had strength to kill it, and knowing its kind,
concluded that death must soon overtake her. By this time, Mrs. Scott was reduced
to a mere skeleton with fatigue, hunger, and grief, probably this state of her body
was the means of preserving her from the effects of the poison; be that as it may, so
it was, that very little pain succeeded the bite, and what little swelling there was, fell
into her feet.

Our wanderer now left the river, and after proceeding a good distance she came
to where the valley parted into two, each leading a different course. Here a painful
suspense again took place a forlorn creature, almost exhausted, and certain, if she
was far led out of the way, she would never see a human creature. During this
doubt, a beautiful bird passed close by her, fluttering along the ground, and went out
of sight up one of the valleys. This drew her attention, and whilst considering
what it might mean, another bird of the same appearance in like manner fluttered
past her, and took the same valley the former had done. This determined her choice
of the way; and in two days, which was on the 11th day of August, she reached the
settlement on Clinch, called New Garden; whereas, (she is since informed by woodmen,)
had she taken the other valley it would have led her back towards the Ohio.
Mrs. Scott relates that the Indians told her that the party was composed of four different
nations, two of whom she thinks they named Delawares and Mingoes.

She further relates, that during her wandering from the 10th of July to the 11th of
August, she had no other subsistence but chewing and swallowing the juice of young
cane stalks, sassafras leaves, and some other plants she did not know the names of;
that on her journey she saw buffaloes, elks, deers, and frequently bears and wolves—
not one of which, although some passed very near her, offered her the least harm.
One day a bear came near her with a young fawn in his mouth, and on discovering
her he dropped his prey and ran off. Hunger prompted her to go and take the flesh
and eat it; but on reflection she desisted, thinking that the bear might return and devour
her—besides, she had an aversion to taste raw flesh.


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SCOTT.

Scott was established by act of Assembly in 1814, and formed from portions
of Lee, Washington and Russell. It is bound N. and N. E. by Russell,—E.
by Washington,—S. by Sullivan and Hawkins counties of Tennessee,—and
W. by Lee. Its mean lat is about 46° 47′ N., its long. 5°
40′ W. of W. C.—its mean length 26 miles, mean breadth 24, and area
624 square miles.

The face of the country is mountainous and uneven.—Clinch mountain
passes through the county from N. E. to S. W.—all the principal ridges and
streams take the same direction. The county is exceedingly well watered
by good springs, creeks and rivers, and possesses water power in abundance.

The soil is generally good, some of superior quality, the poorest well suited
to small grain,—good meadows can be made almost any where. The
county is well suited to rearing stock.

The principal growth consists of poplar, hickory, beech, sugar maple,
white and black oak, lynn, buckeye, black walnut; chesnut on the mountains
and ridges, and wild cherry is found in many places.

The chief productions are, Indian corn, wheat, rye, oats, hemp, flax, &c.
and apples and peaches in abundance. Many horses, horned cattle and
hogs are reared in, and driven out of the county.

Rivers, &c.—The North fork of Holston and Clinch rivers, run through
the county,—each afford the facilities of boat navigation down them in times
of freshets; and with some improvement would add greatly to the convenience
of the country for the purposes of trade; they both afford fine, fish.
Clinch river, for a river of its size, is remarkable for its fish. Some of the
largest taken in it are of the following weight:—blue cats, 30 to 40 lbs.—
salmon, 15 lbs.—carp, 15 lbs.—red horse, 7 lbs. &c.

Big Mocasin Creek rises in Russell county at the foot of Clinch mountain—winds
along the North side of the mountain, a distance of about 30
miles, to Big Mocasin Gap.—Little Mocasin creek rises at the foot of said
mountain in a different direction, runs along the mountain a distance of
about seven miles to said Gap, where the two streams form a junction, flow
through the Gap on nearly level ground, and pass on to the North fork of
Holston. Clinch mountain here is large and the Gap, although formed
abruptly, is so perfectly level that the main western road in passing through
it, does not ascend more than in passing up a gently flowing stream.—Big
Mocasin Gap is situated about one mile east of Estillville.

Sinking Creek empties into Clinch river about 22 miles north of Estillville,
is 6 or 7 miles long, and large for its length. It rises on the south
side of said river, in Copper ridge, and when it approaches within three-fourths
of a mile of the river, sinks, passes under the bed of the river and
rises about one hundred yards from the river on the north side, and runs
back into the river,—the stream rising has often been proved to be the same
that sinks.—Fish from the river pass into the mouth of the creek in the fall
of the year in large numbers, winter under ground, and return to the river
in the spring, when many are caught in a trap fixed between the rising
water and river.

Minerals, &c.—Iron ore abounds in every part of the county—stone
coal of good quality is found in many places—marble, considered coarse,
abounds about Estillville—lime and free stone quarries are abundant—salt
water has lately been discovered by boring at the distance of upwards of


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300 feet below the surface, in the Poor Valley, near the North fork of Holston,
and about 8 miles east of Estillville. The proprietor, Col. James
White of Abingdon, is now letting down pipes and making preparations to
work the well. The quality and quantity of the water is not yet fully ascertained
in consequence of the interference of fresh water, which was struck
first near the surface;—there however appears to be no doubt among those
employed at the well but that it may be profitably worked.

The Holston Springs, situated on the North fork of Holston, south of
Estillville 2 miles, or 4 miles as the road runs, is considered by many to
be not inferior to any springs in the state for the medicinal virtues of the
water, but as yet has gained no great celebrity in consequence of the accommodations
being inferior to those of most other watering places.

The White Sulphur Springs, near the Rye Cove N. W. of Estillville 8
miles, is considered equal to the Catawba Springs in Washington county—
There are many other Sulphur Springs in the county of less note.

There are in the county, exclusive of the town of Estillville, 9 meeting
houses, 6 of which belong to the Methodists and 3 to the Baptists,—the Methodists
also have 18 or 20 other preaching places in the county, where they
have societies formed and preach every other week—6 stores, 4 tanyards,
10 licensed houses of private entertainment, 4 hatter shops, 33 mills, some
of which are very ordinary, others make good flour, but none are entitled
to the appellation of merchant mill. To 10 or 15 of these mills, saw mills
are attached,—and to two, carding machines.

The climate is somewhat milder than that of Washington or Russell
counties—vegetation commencing at Estillville one or two weeks sooner
than at Abingdon or Lebanon. There is but one practicing attorney besides
those residing in Estillville, and no regular physician.

Population in 1820, 4,263—in 1830, 5,724. It belongs to the 15th
judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $646 73—in 1834, on
lots, $25 76—land, $273 95—180 slaves, $45 00—2032 horses, $121 92
—13 studs, $55 00—3 carryalls, $3 00—Total, $524 63. Expended in
educating poor children in 1832, $242 61—in 1833, $361 56.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

ESTILLVILLE, P. V. and seat
of justice,
357 ms. S. W. of R. and
433 S. W. by W. of W. It contains
besides the county buildings, 61 dwelling
houses, 2 houses of public worship,
(1 Methodist and 1 Presbyterian,)
1 academy, 1 common school
and 1 female do., 4 mercantile stores,
2 tanyards, 2 saddlers, 3 blacksmiths,
1 extensive hat manufactory, 2 cabinet
makers, several house carpenters,
and various other mechanics. It is
situated on Mocasin creek, between
the N. fork of Holston and Clinch
rivers, and 4 miles from the Holston
Springs, which are now visited
by much company, and said to be
equalled by none except the Sweet
Springs, to which they have a considerable
resemblance. This place is
supplied with water by means of pipes,
through which it is brought 800 yards,
and is conveyed to every dwelling.
The water is of the purest and best
quality. This place possesses some
of the best water falls and sites for
manufacturing establishments in Western
Virginia, and other advantages
not to be surpassed by any village in
the state. The country around abounds
with stone coal and iron ore, and salt
water has lately been obtained in great
quantity within 6 miles of the C. H.
A. northern, southern, eastern and


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western mail arrives in this village
once a week. Population 200 persons;
of whom three are resident attorneys
and two regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 1st
Wednesday
after the 2d Monday in
every month;—Quarterly in March,
June, August, and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law and
Chancery are held on the 2d Monday
in April and September,
by Judge
Estill.

Osborn Ford, P. O. 20 ms. north
of Estillville.

Pendleton, P. O. 367 ms. from
R. and 443 from W.—Situated 12 ms.
N. W. of Estillville.

Stock Creek, P. O. 368 ms. from
R. and 444 from W.—Situated 11 ms.
W. of Estillville. The remarkable
NATURAL TUNNEL is situated
near this P. O. We present an
account of this natural curiosity written
by S. H. Long, Lieut. Col. U. S.
Army
originally from the Monthly
American Journal of Geology,
in
which it was published in February,
1832.

"The immediate locality of this
tunnel is upon a small stream called
Buck-eye, or Stock creek. This last
name owes its origin to its valley having
been resorted to by the herdsmen
of the country, for the attainment of a
good range, or choice pasture ground
for their cattle. The creek rises in
Powell's mountain, and is tributary
to Clinch river, which it enters at the
distance of between two and three
miles below the tunnel. The aspect
of the surrounding country, and especially
of that to the northward of the
tunnel, and constituting the southerly
slope of the mountain just mentioned,
is exceedingly diversified and broken,
by elevated spurs and ridges, separated
from each other by deep chasms,
walled with cliffs and mural precipices,
often presenting exceedingly narrow
passes, but occasionally widening
into meadows or bottoms of considerable
extent. The mural precipices just
mentioned, occur very frequently,
bounding the valleys of the streams
generally in this part of the country,
and opposing ramparts of formidable
height, and in many places utterly insurmountable.
Such are the features
peculiarly characteristic of Wild Cat
Valley,
the Valley of Copper Creek,
of Powell's and Clinch rivers, and of
numerous other streams of less note,
all of which are situated within a few
miles of the natural tunnel.

"To form an adequate idea of this
remarkable and truly sublime object,
we have only to imagine the creek to
which it gives a passage, meandering
through a deep narrow valley, here
and there bounded on both sides by
walls or revetements of the character
above intimated, and rising to the
height of two or three hundred feet
above the stream; and that a portion
of one of these chasms, instead of
presenting an open thorough cut from
the summit to the base of the high
grounds, is intercepted by a continuous
unbroken ridge more than three
hundred feet high, extending entirely
across the valley, and perforated transversely
at its base, after the manner
of an artificial tunnel, and thus affording
a spacious subterranean channel
for the passage of the stream.

"The entrance to the natural tunnel
on the upper side of the ridge, is
imposing and picturesque, in a high
degree; but on the lower side, the
grandeur of the scene is greatly
heightened by the superior magnitude
of the cliffs, which exceed in loftiness,
and which rise perpendicularly—and
in some instances in an impending
manner—two to three hundred feet;
and by which the entrance on this side
is almost environed, as it were, by an
amphitheatre of rude and frightful
precipices.

"The observer, standing on the
brink of the stream, at the distance of
about one hundred yards below the
debouchure of the natural tunnel, has,
in front, a view of its arched entrance,


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rising seventy or eighty feet above the
water, and surmounted by horizontal
stratifications of yellowish, white and
grey rocks, in depth nearly twice the
height of the arch. On his left, a
view of the same mural precipice, deflected
from the springing of the arch
in a manner to pass thence in a continuous
curve quite to his rear, and
towering in a very impressive manner,
above his head. On his right, a
sapling growth of buck-eye, poplar,
linden, &c. skirting the margin of the
creek, and extending obliquely to the
right, and upward through a narrow,
abrupt ravine, to the summit of the
ridge, which is here, and elsewhere,
crowned with a timber growth of pines,
cedars, oaks, and shrubbery of various
kinds. On his extreme right, is a gigantic
cliff lifting itself up perpendicularly
from the water's edge, to the
height of about three hundred feet,
and accompanied by an insulated cliff,
called the chimney, of about the same
altitude, rising in the form of a turret,
at least sixty feet above its basement,
which is a portion of the imposing
cliff just before mentioned.

"In order to give a more full description
of the magnificent spectacle
which forms the subject of this article,
I shall transcribe some of the minutes
taken from my private notes, whilst
on the ground, but first I shall give
an extract from a letter addressed to
me by my friend P. C. Johnston, Esq.
of Abingdon, in the adjoining county
to Scott, a gentleman well acquainted
with this interesting locality.

" `The rocks through which Stock
creek flows, are a light blue and gray
limestone, of a subcrystalline character;
the strata are nearly horizontal,
and this arrangement of the strata is
obvious for several miles northeastwardly;
but in every other direction,
very near the bridge, (natural tunnel,)
they have the dip usual in the country
to the S. E. at an angle generally
of from 30° to 50°. This tunnel is
near what I have believed to be the
N.W. boundary of the transition formation,
a little within it. I have not
been able to discover any organic remains
in the limestone there, or in the
neighborhood. On the little projections
of the rock which occur on the
walls, near the lower (S.) end of the
tunnel, a crystallized deposit is lodged,
which you no doubt recollect, that
seemed to my taste to be a mixture of
saltpetre and alum. No attempt has
been made to analyze it. The earth
found near the upper (N.) extremity
of the tunnel some years ago, (the
first time I visited it,) afforded saltpetre.
The crystallized deposit seems
to be made from a stratum apparently
not more than six inches thick, which
is so high that it cannot be reached
for examination. The growth of timber
is such as is common in the neighboring
country, white, red, spanish,
black oaks, hickory, white walnut,
dogwood, poplar, chesnut, birch, ironwood,
some hemlock and pawpaw
(asimina triloba) on the banks of the
creek, and the edges of the cliffs fringed
with cedar. On the creek, below
the tunnel for two miles, is found that
variety of ash called the fringe tree,
(chionanthus virginica,) the long white
fringe-like blossoms of which are so
delightfully fragrant.'[44]

The following passages are from
my own private journal.

`Saturday, Aug. 13, 1831. Having
ascended Cove ridge, we turned
aside from our route to visit the natural
bridge, or tunnel, situated on Buckeye,
or Stock creek, about a mile below
the Sycamore camp,[45] and about
one and a half miles from a place called


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Rye cove, which occupies a spacious
recess between two prominent
spurs of Powell's mountain, the site of
the natural tunnel being included within
a spur of Coveridge, which is one of
the mountain spurs just alluded to.
Here is presented one of the most remarkable
and attractive curiosities of
its kind to be witnessed in this or any
other country. The creek, which is
about seven yards wide, and has a
general course about S. 15 W. here
passes through a hill elevated from
two to three hundred feet above the
surface of the stream, winding its way
through a huge subterraneous cavern,
or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a
peculiar manner, and rises from seventy
or eighty feet above its floor.
The sides of this gigantic cavern rise
perpendicularly in some places to the
height of fifteen or twenty feet, and
in others, are formed by the springing
of its vaulted roof immediately
from its floor. The width of the tunnel
varies from fifty to one hundred
and fifty feet; its course is that of a
continuous curve, resembling the letter
S. first winding to the right as we
enter on the upper side, then to the
left, again to the right, and then again
to the left, on arriving at the entrance
on the lower side. Such is its peculiar
form, that an observer, standing
at a point about midway of its subterranean
course, is completely excluded
from a view of either entrance, and is
left to grope in the dark through a
distance of about twenty yards, occupying
an intermediate portion of the
tunnel. When the sun is near the
meridian, and his rays fall upon both
entrances, the light reflected from both
extremities of the tunnel, contributes
to mollify the darkness of this interior
portion into a dusky twilight.

" `The extent of the tunnel from its
upper to its lower extremity, following
its meanders, is about 150 yards, in
which distance the stream falls about
ten feet, emitting, in its passage over
a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur,
which is rendered more grateful by
its reverberations upon the roof and
sides of the grotto. The discharge of a
musket produces a crash-like report,
succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which
has a deafening effect upon the ear.

" `The hill through which this singular
perforation leads, descends in a
direction from east to west, across the
line of the creek, and affords a very
convenient passage for a road which
traverses it at this place, having a descent
in the direction just mentioned,
of about four degrees.'

"The rocks found in this part of
the country are principally sandstone
and limestone, in stratifications nearly
horizontal, with occasional beds of
clay slate. A mixture of the two former
frequently occurs among the alternations
presented by these rocks.
A variety of rock resembling the
French burr, occurs in abundance on
Butcher's fork, of Powell's river,
about twenty miles northwardly of
the natural tunnel. Fossils are more
or less abundant in these and other
rocks. Fossil bones of an interesting
character have been found in several
places. Saltpetre caves are numerous
Coves, sinks and subterranean caverns
are strikingly characteristic, not only
of the country circumjacent to the natural
tunnel, but of the region generally
situated between the Cumberland
mountain and the Blue Ridge or
Apalachain mountain. Bituminous
coal, with its usual accompaniments,
abounds in the northerly parts of this
region; and in the intermediate and
southerly portions, iron, variously
combined, often magnetic, together
with talcose rocks, &c. &c. are to be
met with in great abundance.

"The mountains in this vicinity,
long. 82° to 84° W. from Greenwich,
lat. 35° to 36° N. are among the most
lofty of the Alleghany range. Several
knobs in this part of the range,
among which may be enumerated the
Roan, the Unaka, the Bald, the Black,
and Powell's mountains, rise to the
height of at least four thousand five
hundred feet above tide."

 
[44]

This plant, in the natural system, belongs
to the oleaceæ, or olive tribe. The
flowers of the olea fragrans are used for
flavoring tea in China. We offer this hint
to our readers who have access to the chionanthus.—Ed.

[45]

This designation has been given to a spot
in the valley of the creek, where formerly
stood a hollow sycamore (plantanus occidentalis)
tree of an enormous size, the remains
of which are still to be seen, and in
the cavity of which, whilst it stood, fifteen
persons are said to have encamped at the
same time together.


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SHENANDOAH.

Shenandoah was established by act of Assembly in 1772, from a portion
of the county of Frederick under the name of Dunmore, from the
name of Lord Dunmore, then Governor of Virginia; but in October 1777
after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonies in the
contest with the mother country, one of the delegates from the county stated
that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a county,
bearing the name of such a tory, he therefore moved to call it. Shenandoah,
after the name of the beautiful stream which passed through it, which
was accordingly adopted. Shenandoah is bounded N. and N. E. by Frederick,—E.
and S. E. by Page,—S. and S. W. by Rockingham,—W. and
N. W. by Hardy. Its average lat is about 38° 50′ N. and long. 1° 30′ W.
of W. C.,—its greatest length from S. W. to N. E. is 32 miles,—average
width 15,—and area 384 sq. ms. This is a fertile and populous county,
situated in the valley. The whole county is traversed by the North Fork of
Shenandoah river, lying between the Massanutten and North mountain. The
North and South branches of the Shenandoah river pass through the entire
length of the county and Page, and unite immediately below its north-eastern
line, and form the Shenandoah river. They admit of a descending navigation
when the waters are a little swollen,—its creeks are Cedar creek, Passage
creek, Stoney creek, Mill creek and Smith's creek. It is divided into
four valleys, two of which are long and two small,—by the Three Topped
or Massanutten mountain and the Little North mountain. The larger valleys
are watered by the North and South Shenandoah rivers, the smaller
vallies by Cedar and Passage creeks. The land in the vallies is principally
limestone, and is well adapted to the cultivation of wheat, rye, Indian
corn and oats, and is divided into small farms. Its staple articles are flour,
bacon, beef, butter and iron. There are within it 34 manufacturing flour
mills, 2 furnaces and 4 forges, for the manufacturing of pig metal into bar
iron, and another furnace and forge are now being erected. Its mineral resources
have been but partially explored. Iron ore of the best quality
abounds, copper, lead, cobalt and copperas have been found, but not in sufficient
quantities to justify working them. There are several chalybeate
and sulphur springs which are places of resort in the warm season.

The Valley of the Gooney is situated in the eastern part of the
county, immediately at the western base of the Blue Ridge. It is bounded
on the S. by the Hog-back mountain, which is one of the highest summits
of the Blue Ridge, on the E. by the Blue Ridge; on the N. and W. by
Dickey's hill and the Buck mountain, both of which, are spurs of the Blue
Ridge. It is about 7 miles in length and 4 in breadth. The face of this
section of country, is hilly and rugged, but the soil is sufficiently productive,
and yields, when well cultivated, abundant crops of corn, wheat, rye,
&c. Clover and timothy thrive remarkably well on this soil, as plaster
acts with an astonishing effect. There is a great proportion of excellent
meadow land, there being scarcely a field that has not one or more streams
of water passing through it. Almost every farmer has a spring of excellent
mountain water near his door, and breathing a pure mountain atmosphere;
the inhabitants are extremely healthy and robust, having uniformly escaped
those periodical diseases which have been so fatal in other sections of
Virginia. The principal stream is the Gooney, which is a creek of the
largest class. It rises near the top of the Hog back, and running a N. W.


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course about 12 miles, empties into the South River about 5 miles, above
the town of Front Royal. It affords some fine situations for water-works,
and moves several merchant mills and saw mills. The mountains, with
which it is surrounded, afford an inexhaustible supply of excellent timber.
There is a woollen factory, 1 common school, 2 churches (Methodist and
Baptist) and several extensive distilleries of grain,—whiskey, plank and flour
being the chief articles of export. This valley is thickly settled by a hardy,
honest and industrious people. From the top of the Blue Ridge, at Dade's
gap, nearly opposite the town of Washington, in the county of Rappahannock,
there is a magnificent view of the eastern part of the county of Shenandoah
(now Page) and of the county of Rappahannock. Near this place there
is a remarkable rock called the Raven's Den, it having been occupied as the
aerie of that wild bird from time immemorial. It is entirely inaccessible to
man. Near Cheek's gap, Lann's run, a bold mountain current, a branch
of the Gooney, forms a most beautiful cascade, the water falling 60 or 70
feet perpendicular. There is another beautiful cascade near Milford, formed
by the stream which divides the counties of Shenandoah and Page; the waters
of which fall about 100 feet at one perpendicular pitch.

The Fort Mountain. This name has been given to a range of mountains
in the county of Shenandoah, which are, in elevation, about equal to
the Blue Ridge. This range commences nearly opposite to the town of
Newmarket, at which place it is called the Massanutten mountain, and extends
in a direction nearly from S. W. to N. E. or in a line coinciding with
the meanderings of the North branch of the Shenandoah river. Unlike
the Blue Ridge, which is extremely fertile, and the greater part of which is
susceptible of successful and profitable cultivation, this mountain is precipitous
and rugged in the extreme, and is covered, for the most part, with
a thick growth of oak, pine, hickory, chesnut, &c. Its forests afford a
shelter for a great number of deer, bears, turkies and other game, with
which the mountain abounds. Nearly opposite the town of Luray in the
county of Page, its eastern base is washed by the South, and its western
base by the North branch of the Shenandoah river. At this place the
mountain forks, and instead of one, there are two distinct mountains, stretching
in the same direction, and running parallel to each other. These
mountains form what is termed the Fort. They have received the name
"Fort Mountains," from the peculiar form of the valley which they enclose,
which, with the addition of some slight military fortifications might be rendered
impregnable. The only road which crosses this mountain is the one
which leads from Luray to Woodstock, which is at the upper end of the
Fort, and which at the expense of much labor is kept passable for light
loaded carriages. The valley which is enclosed by these mountains, is
about 25 miles in length and about 3 in mean breadth. It is tolerably
fruitful in grass, corn, rye, buck-wheat, potatoes, turnips, &c. At the upper
end of the Fort, rises Passage creek, a large and very rapid mountain
current, which works several fine merchant mills. Its whole length is
about 30 miles. The Fort is supposed to be extremely rich in mineral ores,
of which iron and copper are among its discovered mineral productions.
There are in the Fort, several common schools, 2 Meeting-houses, 3 grist
mills, 3 oil mills, a powder factory, several smith shops and a sufficient
number of mechanics. The population is about 700 souls. In making an
excavation for a well, a few weeks since, (Jan. 1834,) some fine specimens
of petrifaction were discovered at a considerable distance below the present


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surface of the earth. These petrifactions consist of toads, snakes, &c. in a
state of entire preservation. The East and West Fort mountains terminate
abruptly nearly opposite the town of Strasburg. The points opposite this
place are the highest parts of the mountain, being about 1200 feet above the
level of the river. The entrance or mouth of the Fort forms one of the most
awful defiles in America. The space between the mountains is barely wide
enough for a narrow road, which runs on the bank and sometimes in the
bed of the large and rapid creek which rushes impetuously over the rugged
surface of its channel. On each side of the road the mountain rises so perpendicularly
as to be entirely inaccessible. The East Fort mountain especially
exhibits the most magnificent scenery, and rock piled on rock, from
base to top, without a shrub to break the view, and bids defiance to the approaches
of man. Here, in summer, may be seen great numbers of vultures
basking in the sun, or with expanded wings inhaling the cooling
breeze. In the caverns which are in this cliff, it is said these vultures remain
in a torpid state during the winter. There are some of the finest landscape
views from this mountain which can be imagined. At a point nearly
opposite Woodstock, from the East Fort mountain, the South river presents
the appearance of three distinct streams of water, crossing the valley from
the western base of the Blue Ridge, to the foot of the Fort mountain. If an
observer, station himself on the top of the East mountain, at the N. end, and
look "down east" the beautiful valley of the South river is presented full to
his view. The thrifty village of Front Royal with the adjacent country interspersed
with elegant country villas, fertile farms and thick forests alternately
meet the eye. If he look a little higher his horizon is bounded by
the indented top of the Blue Ridge, which stretches N. and S. as far as the
vision can extend; its surface from base to summit is beautifully diversified
with cultivated farms and sloping woodlands. If he look W. into the profound
abyss below him, he recoils with horror from the awful sight. If he
station himself on the N. end of the West mountain, he has a full view of
the valley of the North river. Strasburg, which is 4 miles distant, appears
almost under his feet. At a distance of 7 miles, he sees Middletown, 5 miles
further he sees Newtown, and at a distance of 20 miles he sees the large and
populous town of Winchester,—its stately dwellings and towering steeples
glittering in the sun. A great part of the county of Frederick is seen in
full perspective. But one of the finest landscapes in Virginia, and perhaps
in the world, is seen from a point on the West Fort mountain nearly opposite
Woodstock. Here, if the observer look towards "the far east," the
"blue brow" of the North mountain, which stretches N. and S. further than
the eye can view, appears to peep into the clouds and to tower above them,
many of which actually sail below its summit. The fertile valley which
lies between the North mountain and Woodstock, is seen so distinctly, that
a person who is acquainted with the country, may designate most of the
farms which are seen from this point, the view from which, extends over a
country about 15 miles in extent.

The town of Woodstock, which is about 5 miles distant, is seen so plainly,
that the observer may count almost every house in that beautiful village.
Between Woodstock and the mountain (Fort) lies the rich valley which is
watered by the North branch of the Shenandoah. The river in its mean,
derings approaches very near the mountain, and then retreats a considerable
distance towards Woodstock, where after making a turn it suddenly returns
to the mountain without the bend at either place being perceived. Thus it


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alternately approaches the mountain and recedes from it, until it presents
the appearance of seven distinct livers running parallel to each other.

The river at this place, is about 150 feet in width, and forms a beautiful
sheet of water which sparkles in the sun like a stream of silver. The space
which is enclosed by each bend of the river is, apparently about large
enough for a beautiful farm, and the bottoms being abundantly fertile, the
whole scene presents one of the most picturesque landscapes in the world.
Shenandoah is an Indian name, signifying clear water, and like most of the
Indian names is very appropriate, these rivers being remarkable for their
transparent waters. In 1831 part of this county which lies between the
Blue Ridge and the Massachutten mountain was taken off, and with a small
part of Rockingham county, formed into a new county called Page. When
the county was first settled, about the year 1735, its population was composed
principally of Irish and Scotch, but few of their descendants are now
found within it, as the county became more settled, they were supplanted by
Germans from Pennsylvania,—and the greater part of its population, now
consists of their descendants. They are a plain, frugal and industrious
people. A few years since the German language was very much spoken
and taught in the schools, but it is now rapidly giving place to the English,
which is now universally taught in all the schools.

Population in 1820, 18,926—in 1830, 19,750. By the separation of
Page the population is reduced to 14,000. This county belongs to the 14th
judicial circuit and 7th district. Tax paid in 1833, $3,506 09—in 1834,
on lots. $253 33—land, $2,479 68—984 slaves, $246 00—5,575 horses,
$334 50—22 studs, $128 00—23 coaches, $53 00—27 carryalls, $27 00
—16 gigs, $12 65. Total $3,534 16. Expended in educating poor children
in 1832, $1,512 16—in 1833, $827 29.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Allen's Cave. In the county of
Shenandoah, a short distance from the
town of Front Royal, is Allen's Cave,
which may with propriety, be styled
a great natural curiosity. It is situated
on the right bank of the Shenandoah,
about a quarter of a mile from
the river, in the side of a hill of considerable
elevation. The face of the
country in its vicinity, is romantic in
the extreme, being a thick forest of
oak, pine and cedar, interspersed with
ledges and cliffs of limestone.

The entrance into this cavern is by
a gradual descent of about 45°. The
mouth is about 5 feet in width and 15
in height. After proceeding about 60
feet, the explorer reaches what may
be termed the vestibule of this grand
work of nature, after which the floor
becomes comparatively level. Upon
looking back, towards the entrance,
the beholder is struck with the singular
beauty and regularity of the magnificent
arch, which is composed of
solid lime. The cavity here is about
10 feet in width and 30 in height.
Proceeding some distance, it becomes
very narrow and so low, that it is necessary
to stoop much in order to advance.
Upon emerging from this
narrow defile, the admirer of the
works of nature, is presented with one
of the most magnificent scenes which
the fancy can imagine. He finds
himself ushered into a vast room, the
extent of which, from end to end, is
more than 150 feet, and of very considerable
width. The height of the
roof or ceiling, varies from 10 to 50
or 60 feet, forming some of the finest
arches that the eye ever beheld. The
ceiling and walls of this apartment,
which is called Sarah's saloon, are


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covered with sparry incrustations
which have been formed by the
drippings of the water from the roof.
In some places, they have the appearance
of pendant icicles; in other places
they bear a strong resemblance to the
folds of drapery, and appear to hang
in festoons which art can neither rival
or imitate. In some places the
sparry stalactites resemble the most
beautiful sculpture, at one point presenting
the image of a magnificent
pillar or colossal statue, at another
the curved and wavy appearance of a
cataract in miniature. If a piece of
the spar be thrown into a crucible or
even into a hot coal fire, it fuses, and
becomes as transparent as glass.

It is, however, to be regretted, that
the most beautiful specimens of the
spar have been abstracted by the
numerous visiters; and that, the walls
and roof of Sarah's saloon, which
were once of the most glittering transparency,
have been blackened by the
smoke of the pine torches, which have
been used in exploring it. Upon
leaving the saloon, it becomes necessary
to ascend about 12 or 15 feet
perpendicular, which is done by
means of a ladder, at the top of which
is a small room which is evidently
the highest and yet the closest apartment
in the cave, as the candles burn
less freely here, than in any other
part of the cavern. On speaking, or
striking with the hand against the
wall the sound is increased to an astonishing
loudness. At the farther
extremity of this upper apartment is a
reservoir of water of a circular shape,
about 5 feet in diameter and 4 in depth,
called the Fairy's bath, and within a
few feet of the bath, is a small basin
called the Fairy's wash-bowl,—both
formed in the solid rock and full of
water of the most limpid clearness.
After leaving this place, the passage
forks. That passage which leads
straight forward, passes through some
small rooms and narrow defiles, until
it reaches a large apartment; at the
extremity of the cavern. This chamber
which is called the Sylph's dressing-room,
is about the size of the saloon,
with a lofty ceiling of sparry
concretions,—once clear as crystal—
now rendered dingy by the smoke.
It has several outlets, too small to admit
the body of a man; but it is probable
that if they were enlarged, they
might lead to other rooms in this subterraneous
abode, which it is possible
and even probable, may extend to the
river. Near the Fairy's bath, is a
narrow passage, which turns to the
right, called the labyrinth. After various
mazes and intricate windings
under low arches, so contracted in
breadth as to admit only one person
abreast, the winding ceases, and the
explorer finds himself in a straight
passage, about 40 feet in length, 3 in
breadth, and 7 in height, and which,
without doubt, forms one of the most
beautiful, regular and symmetrical
arches in the world. Issuing from
this passage the explorer finds himself
in the ball-room, which is decidedly
the best room in the cave. The
length is 160 or 170 feet, and the
breadth at least 30 feet. Here, too,
as in the other rooms, the hands of
vandal visiters, have torn off the
beautiful spar from the wall, thus
having robbed the cave of its glittering
ornaments, and deprived posterity
in a measure, of one of the most
magnificent scenes that ever met the
eye of man. The floor is of soft clay
and remarkably level and smooth.
Here, before the invention of dandies,
tights, corsets, balloon sleeves, prunella
slippers, large combs and leghorn
flats, the beaux and belles of by gone
days met, and held social parties, and
while "mingling in the giddy mazes
of the sprightly dance," the foot and
hand kept time with the clarionet and
violin, and the merry song, the wild
music, the free jest, the witty retort
and the hearty laugh, all telling of
enjoyment, reached the remotest
depths of this spacious grotto,—while


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pleased echo caught the sound, and
reverberating from grotto to grotto,
told the deities of the place, of the
mirth and innocent amusement which
were to be found in the ball-room of
Allen's cave.

Even in these, our degenerate
days, the cave is still visited by hundreds
of persons who generally speak
in terms of the highest praise of the
wonders which they have seen in
this subterranean world. The extent
of this cavern has never been
ascertained—but it is supposed to be
about 1200 feet.

Cedar Creek, P. O. 162 miles
from R. and 83 from W.

Fortsmouth, P. O. 147 ms. from
R. and 83 W. of W. This village
is pleasantly situated in a narrow
valley, and in the fork of the North
and South branches of the Shenandoah
river, surrounded on the south
and west by the Fort mountain. It
contains several dwelling houses, 1
manufacturing flour mill, 1 saw mill,
1 distillery, and various mechanics.
Population 30. There are in the immediate
vicinity two houses of public
worship, the one Baptist, and the other
free for all denominations. It is
distant 25 ms. from Winchester and
18 from Woodstock. Fortsmouth
derives its name from Powell's Fort,
at the `mouth' of which it is located,
and which is a great natural curiosity,—the
valley being formed by the
Massariutten mountain, springing up
on the west side of the Shenandoah
river, commencing between New
Market and Staunton, running south
west and north east until it reaches a
short distant below New Market;—it
then breaks off into two mountains,
the one running down the North and
the other down the South branch of
the Shenandoah river. These two
mountains form Powell's Fort, which
receives its name from an individual
who it is said was the first settler
within the fort. This Fort as it is
called, is thirty miles in length, with
a fine stream running entirely thro'
it called Passage creek, on which
are situated many springs of pure
water at various distances.

Mount Hope, P. O. 144 ms. from
R. and 80 S. W. by W. of W.

Mount Jackson, P. O. 157 ms.
from R. and 113 W. of W. It contains
8 dwelling houses, 1 Presbyterian
house of public worship, 1
common school, 1 mercantile store, 1
tavern, 1 tanyard, 1 smith shop, and
1 boot factory. The country around
is a little broken, the soil gray and
sandy, of ordinary quality, producing
Indian corn, wheat and oats tolerably
well.

Strasburg, P. O. 153 ms. from
R. and 89 W. of W., situated in the
northern part of the county, on the
North branch of the Shenandoah
river, immediately on the main road
leading from Woodstock to Winchester,
12 ms. N. of the former and 18
S. of the latter. This is a healthy
and thriving village, containing 78
dwelling houses, 3 houses of public
worship. (1 Presbyterian, 1 Lutheran,
and 1 free for all denominations,) 3
schools, including an academy, (a
handsome building with a valuable
lot of land attached, on which has
been erected out of the income an
excellent house as a residence for the
principal.) There are also 3 mercantile
stores, 1 apothecary shop, 2
taverns, 1 stone and 1 earthen ware
manufactory, 4 tanyards, 5 cabinet
makers, 1 turner, 4 blacksmith shops,
1 plasterer, 3 bricklayers, 2 gun
smiths, 5 tailors, 6 boot and shoe factories,
and 4 cooper shops. Population
470 persons; of whom 6 are
regular physicians. The inhabitants
are principally Germans, of industrious
and economical habits.

New Market, P. V., delightfully
situated in the great valley of Virginia,
between the Massanutten and
North mountains, 120 ms. W. by S.
of W. and 150 ms. N. W. of R., in
lat 38° 36′ 30″ N. and long 1° 37′


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W. from W. It is a central point
between the towns of Winchester
and Staunton, being 50 miles distant
from either place. The main road
leading from the counties of Pendleton
and Hardy, eastward across
Thornton's Gap in the direction of
Fredericksburg, intersects the great
valley road at this place. The town
was founded about the year 1784. It
is at this time three-fourths of a mile
in length, containing above one hundred
dwelling houses, with a population
of 700 persons. The streets
are remarkably level, straight and
well laid out, bearing south 25 west,
a direction nearly parallel with the
Massanutten mountain and two miles
distant from its base. There are 3
houses of public worship, viz 1 Lutheran,
1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist, 1
large and commodious brick academy,
in which is taught all the
branches of liberal and polite education,
1 book and job printing office,
5 stores, 3 taverns, 1 resident attorney,
and 4 regular physicians—
There is perhaps no town in the state
of the same size, where the mechanical
pursuits are carried on to a greater
extent than in this. There are
here in active and extensive operation—1
manufactory of threshing
machines, &c., 2 wheelwrights, 4
cabinet makers and house-joiners, 4
tanneries, 2 saddle and harness making
establishments, 2 chair factories,
4 boot and shoe manufactories, 3 hat
factories, 1 silversmith and jeweller,
1 coppersmith and tin plate worker,
2 gunsmiths, 2 blacksmiths, 1 locksmith,
1 sleymaker, 1 saddle tree
maker, 1 diaper weaver, and 2 potteries,
at one of which stone ware of a
superior quality is manufactured.
There are also in the vicinity 2 forges
for the manufactory of pig metal into
bar iron, both of which are at this
time in active operation. The country
around abounds in iron ore of the
best quality.

The North fork of the Shenandoah
river runs within a mile of the
town on the western side; and is navigable
at high water for boats carrying
one hundred barrels of flour
to the Plain Mills 2½ miles above the
town but the navigation is somewhat
hazardous, as the river is passable
for boats of this burden only
during a freshet. The Massanutten
mountain on the east of the town
presents a beautiful and unbroken
view to the eye of an observer, free
from any spurs, or secondary mountains,
to obstruct his sight, for many
miles in extent, presenting upon the
whole a spectacle highly grand and
picturesque. There is a caseade on
this mountain about, 3½ miles from
the town, which as it appears not to
be embraced in any written account
of the State deserves to be noticed.—
It presents the curious spectacle of a
beautiful sheet of water falling from
the height of fifty feet perpendicular,
The large table rock over which the
water falls is so perfectly level and
smooth, that the water falls in an entire
and unbroken sheet of several
yards in width, which it retains until
it strikes the bottom sufficiently far
from the perpendicular for a person
to pass conveniently between that
and the sheet of water, without danger
of getting wet. This falling
sheet of water is so perfectly transparent,
that it may be seen for several
hundred yards, glistening thro' the
thick surrounding woods, presenting
a beautiful spectacle.

Among the rocks of this country
are the blue and grey limestone,
slates, sand-stone and burr-stone.—
The adjacent country is famed for its
fertility, and is well adapted to the culture
of wheat, rye, Indian corn, and
grass. No country can boast more
of its healthy situation than this; in
short nothing seems to be wanting
to render it among the most desirable
sections of country in the State,
but a facility of access to market,
and whenever that is given, it may


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be confidently predicted, that no part
of the United States will present
greater rewards to enteprise and industry.

Stony Ghedk, or Shryock, P.
O. 162 ms. from R. and 105 S. W.
of W., situated on Stony creek, near
the North Fork of Shenandoah.
The creek empties into the river one
mile E. of this place. It is distant
8 ms. S. S. W. of Woodstock, and
35 in a similar direction from Winchester.
This village contains 17
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores,
1 house of public entertainment, 1
rifle manufactory, and 1 blacksmith
shop. Population 130 persons; of
whom 1 is a physician. The land
is fertile, producing well all the ordinary
staples, and the county is thickly
settled. Stoney creek is a bold
stream, affording some excellent sites
for manufactories. There are located
on it, and within 2 miles of the
village, at various distances, a considerable
number of dwelling houses,
2 extensive manufacturing flour mills,
2 grist mills, 7 saw mills, 1 well established
fulling mill, and 2 wool
carding machines, 1 still-house, 1
tannery, and 1 forge in active operation,
manufacturing pig metal into
bar iron, and 1 furnace called Columbia,
with about 200 persons dependant
on it for support.

WOODSTOCK, P. V. and seat
of justice,
156 ms. from R. and 100
S. W. of W. in lat. 38° 51′ N. and
long. 1° 34′ W. of W. C., situated on
the main valley road 32 ms. S. S.
W. of Winchester and about 1 mile
W. of the North Fork of the Shenandoah
river. It contains besides
the usual county buildings, 118 dwelling
houses, 3 houses of public worship,
(1 Lutheran, 1 Methodist and 1
German Reformed,) 1 Masonic Hall,
1 handsome brick academy, 3 other
schools, and 2 sabbath schools, 1
printing office from which a weekly
paper is issued, 5 mercantile stores,
2 taverns, 3 tan yards, 4 saddlers, 2
hatters, 5 boot and shoe factories, 5
house joiners and carpenters, 3
wheelwrights and chair makers, 4
tailors, 2 smith shops, 1 earthen and
1 stone ware manufactory, 1 watch
maker and silver smith, 1 wagon
maker, 1 tin plate worker, 2 saddletree
makers, 2 saddle-tree platers, 2
bricklayers and masons, and 2 plasterers.
Population 950 persons; of
whom 3 are resident attorneys, and
4 are ministers and 3 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the
Monday before the 2d Tuesday in
every month;—Quorterly in March,
May, August and November.

Judge Smith holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 9th of April and September.

SMYTH.

Smyth was created by act of Assembly in 1831, and formed from a
portion of Washington and Wythe. It is bounded W. by Clinch-mountain
separating it from Russell,—N. W. and N. by the same mountain,
separating it from Tazewell,—N. E. and E. by Wythe,—and by the Iron
mountain separating it from Grayson S. E. and S. It is located on the
head waters of Holston river. The eastern line dividing Smyth and
Wythe crosses within fifty yards of the head spring. The county is divided
into three valleys,—the North, South and Middle Forks of the Holston
running parallel with the different valleys. The North Fork rises
between Clinch and Walker's mountains pursues a northerly course some


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distance, and then winds to the west. The mountains are lofty,—the bottom
lands are rich and productive. On this fork is found gypsum of the
best quality, and sufficient in quantity to supply the whole western country.
In that neighborhood is situated the salt works belonging to Gen'l
Preston. These works, and King's in Washington county, are denominated
Saltville,—they are within 40 feet of each other. The place has
risen up in consequence of the salt works. The county line separating
Smyth and Washington counties runs between them. (For further
particulars see Saltville in this county.) An experiment lately made on
the water of Preston's works was attended with complete success,—twenty
bushels full produced a deposite of five bushels of salt, which weighed one
hundred and fifty-one pounds, shewing it to be in proportion of one-fourth
to the water which contains it. It is supposed that no other water approaches
this strength, and it is quite free from the slightest quantity of
bittern or other foreign matter. From this supply five hundred bushels of
salt may be manufactured in twenty-four hours.

On the middle fork of the Holston are situated the Chilhowee Sulphur
Springs,
within one mile of the great road. They stand as high for the
medicinal qualities of their waters as any spring in Virginia. There are
also in the same vicinity several chalybeate springs. The productions
are wheat, rye, Indian corn, buckwheat, Irish potatoes, hemp, flax,
and every species of the vine; being one of the best grape counties in Virginia.
This county is well timbered with the best of white and black
oak, buckeye, poplar, hickory, black walnut, lynn, pine, sassafras, dog
wood, birch, beech, and the spice wood tree. Along the branches are elder
of different qualities, spruce pine, and the hemlock tree. It also abounds
with the maple or sugar tree. This tree is more valuable than all others;
if it is notched in the month of March, and bored with a small auger or
gimblet some distance below the notch and a tube placed in, one tree will
afford in a season from 30 to 60 gallons of sweet water, which when boiled
will always produce from 3 to 4 pounds of good sugar, besides the molasses,
which is superior to any other. The tops of these trees are large, tapering
something like a sugar loaf, the bark is rough and body straight, some
of them are of a light color, others black. The latter always produce the
sweetest water. Some of these maple trees grow to an enormous size.
The wood is precious, and when cut and corded, one tree will make from
6 to 7 cords. The next in size is the yellow poplar, which exceeds in
growth any timber in the United States. It is no uncommon thing to find
this timber from 3 to 4 feet and upwards in diameter, and the trunks 44
feet in height before a limb shoots. The white oak and other timber is in
proportion.

There are in this county one cotton manufactory, (at the court house,) 3
iron works, 14 tan yards, 16 grist mills, 14 houses of public worship, (5
Methodist, 2 Presbyterian, 3 Baptists, 3 free for all denominations, and 1
Lutheran,) and 8 taverns or houses of public entertainment. The elevation
of Davis's town, situated 2 miles from the east line of the county, and
on Pleasant Hill, is 200 feet above James River at Lynchburg. Population
not taken at the last census, the county having been since created, but
supposed to be between 6 and 7000, of which there are 100 free persons
of color, and 1400 slaves. It belongs to the fourteenth judicial circuit
and eight district. Tax paid in 1833, $941 57—in 1834 on land
$572 04—470 slaves, $117 50—2675 horses, $160 50—20 studs, $123 50


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—5 coaches, $10 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $989 04.
No report of school commissioners for 1832. Expended in educating poor
children in 1833, $220 26.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

MARION P. V. and county seat,
was located two years since. The improvements
have rapidly progressed.
A handsome court house, clerk's office,
and jail, have been erected, 10
or 12 neat dwelling houses have been
completed and several others are in
progress of erection, 2 mercantile
stores have been established, and 2
others are about going into operation.
One cotton manufactory on a small
scale, and various mechanical pursuits
are carried on; the principal
of which are bricklaying, stone masonry,
house carpentry, tailoring,
saddlery, and blacksmithing. Population
about 100 persons, of whom
3 are resident attorneys, and 2 regular
physicians.

County Courts are held on the
Thursday after the third Monday in
every month, Quarterly in February,
May, July and October.

Judge Estill holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the Monday after the fourth
Monday
in April and September.

Pleasant Hill, P. O. 269 ms.
from R. and 344 S. W. by W. of W.

Saltville, P. O. This settlement
derives its name from the justly
celebrated Saltworks of Preston and
King. Preston's well being located
in Smyth, and King's in Washington
county. They are not more than
forty feet apart, the line dividing the
two counties running between the
wells. The following topographical,
geological and general remarks respecting
them, and the surrounding
country, are taken from an article
published in the Abingdon Republican.

"The place called Saltville, is situated
in a narrow plain of about 700
acres of land, between the Rich Valley
and the North Fork of the Holston,
having its greatest length from
the northeast to the southwest, bounded
on the eastern side by conical
peaks and ridges which are appendages
of Walker's mountain and on
the western side by conical peaks
and highland intervening between it
and the North fork of the Holston river,
which washes their bases for many
miles. This branch of the Holston
is declared a public highway, but has
many obstructions, which it is believed
could be removed by expendture
of $6 000, so as to be suitable for
batteaux and flat boats, from Saltville,
to its mouth at Kingsport, a distance
of 65 miles by water.

"The present point of manufacturing
salt is on the bank of the river,
to which for convenience of timber
and fuel the water is conveyed, about
two miles, in a northwardly course,
in wooden tubes. On the opposite
bank of the river lies Little mountain,
an appendage of Clinch mountain,
which is parallel and continuous
with that mountain for hundreds of
miles, and between which, lies a narrow
stoney valley, commonly called
the Poor Valley. The numerous
streams having their source in the
Clinch mountain, pass through the
breaks of Little mountain into the
North Fork, along its course. To the
northwest of Clinch mountain, and
parallel with it, lie Copper Ridge.
Powel's mountain, Cumberland mountains,
and the Log mountains, having
narrow valleys; and the rivers Clinch,
Powel's and Cumberland, and their
waters, interspersing, beautifying and
enriching, these inviting, but for the
present, neglected regions. Beyond
Log mountains and the adjacent
ridges in Kentucky, lie streams


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emptying into the Ohio; on one of
which is the Goose Creek Salt Manufactory,
about 150 miles from Saltville.

"Viewing the country from Saltville,
towards the south of Walker's
mountain, fine valleys and fertile
ridges are passed before you reach
the middle and south fork of Holston
river, and thence towards the southwest;
passing many tributaries, you
cross the Watauga, French Broad,
Nolachucky, and the hundred streams
rising in this mountain district, and
winding their way westward, to form
the broad and beautiful. Tennessee
river; whilst those running from the
same quarter eastwardly, compose
the bold and restless waters of
the Great Kanawha,—all adding
utility and beauty; either to the
valleys bordering on the large rivers,
or the irregular but level depressions
called coves, hemmed in all around
except a single passway; which
sometimes exhibits a cataract in its
little stream.

"East of the New River waters,
the Alleghany mountain directs the
streams to the Atlantic, and at some
points you might stand with one foot
in the waters of the Atlantic, the
other in those which wend their weary
way to the hot Mexican gulph, and
the great mart for the effective industry
of the millions of people which
the valley of the Mississippi, is inviting
from other extremes to those parts.
Standing at such a point, your admiration
would be excited, that amidst such
a boundless view of masses beyond
masses, of high parallel and irregular
mountains, the rivers should all
find their way to their destinations,
without falls or other impediments to
navigation, which the skill and energies
of man, at trifling expense, may
not remove, thus adding vigor to the
giant heart, the Estuary of our thousand
rivers, which is to receive, commercially
cherish and return, as it
were the vitalized fluids to all the
extremities. With amazement, still
heightened, would you behold from
the great White Top, (the neutral
ground of North Carolina, Virginia
and Tennessee,) the Spinal Alleghany
and the Blue Ridge, with its granite
cliffs and basaltic rocks, running
diagonally athwart each other, and as
if in the formative day of their creation,
each of these huge columns of
uplifted matter had been shot forward
from the north and northeast; and
neither having the advantage of force
over the other, a contest terrible commenced,
in which the champions
both discomfitted, glanced each taking
its own path southwardly, leaving
their cast away remnants piled fearfully
"Ossa upon Pelion, and Pelion
upon Ossa," rolling confusedly into
thousands of rude shapes. But in
this field of old warring elements are
every where, as you would also perceive,
evidences presented, that the
principle of order has been passing
and nestling, has changed and given
new capacities, striking the waste
"rocks with the rod," millions of
springs of purest water gushed forth;
the uptorn hills became verdant, and
all the glories of redundant vegetation
do more than honor to the silent
mountains; thousands of choicest
animals browse and revel on the spontaneous
herbage; and man invited
last, has made his home in these high
places, and being far removed from
the great commercial haunts of luxury
and vice, hope may long rest in
security, that here at least, some
share—a large share of health, happiness,
independence and freedom
will be enjoyed? Why do the inhabitants
of these regions, so bounteously
fitted for their use, desert them
for Eldorado's in the great and laboring
and slave holding and money
grasping west? Too many have
quit, have left their mountains,—but
the day of return is commencing
in our favor, it was not so with those
who listened to the song of William


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Tell; for deeds of arms when necessity
calls; or for hearth-talks `in piping
times of peace,' there is no `place
like a home in the mountains and in
the valleys.' You have no doubt
seen the surprise of strangers on the
highway, when reaching in some
parts of this country (as Burk's garden
with its ten thousand elevated
level acres) the first view of valleys
below, in foggy mornings; whilst on
the mountain the sun is brilliantly
beaming, the stranger's eye will be
arrested with what he supposes is a
broad and lengthened lake below.
The deception is perfect, the very
waves are seen rolling and tempest
tossed, nor will the appearance of
islands and of trees breaking through
the mist as it evaporates, nor the
sounds of ploughmen, the screaking
of iron works, or the monotonous
beat of the forge hammer, issuing
from the gulph below (till then unheard
of,) dispel the optical illusion,
—the rolling mist must be dispersed
before he can believe the deception.

"Let the James River improvements
have an arm extended towards
the Tennessee, and the latter be improved
with that spirit which has
characterized Tennessee for the last
twelve months; or let a Macadam
road be constructed through the natural
depression of all the mountains,
from the Atlantic to the Mississippi,
and it requires only the slightest
knowledge of things, to be convinced,
that in internal resources no part of
the union can vie with this, especially
in minerals. Preston's salt-works
are in Smyth county, and King's in
Washington, and the same counties
abound in immense banks of iron
ore. In the adjoining county of Carter,
are above twenty iron making establishments
now in operation, some
of which are small bloomeries, and
in some places solid masses of ore,
containing seventy-five per cent of
metal, are exposed thirty or forty feet
high, like cliffs of rock. The countres
of Green, Washington, Sullivan,
Campbell, Claiborne, Anderson,
Knox, Rhea, Hamilton in Tennessee,
Harlan, Ky., Ash, Buncomb, Rutherford
and other counties of North
Carolina, and Monroe, Giles, Montgomery,
Floyd, Grayson, Preston,
Wythe and other counties in Virginia
abound in exhaustless quantities
of iron, and many of those counties
have quarries of various sorts of
stone coal and innumerable seats for
water power.

"In Grayson and Wythe are large
bodies of rich copper ore, not yet
fully tested, and in the latter county,
lead ore of the best quality, worked
by Col James White and Alexander
Pierce,—what amount of lead could
be made is unknown, as the ore bank
seems inexhaustible, and coal in
abundance, as near as Graham's
forge and iron furnace. The capacity
of the soil to produce different
sorts of timber after the first is cut
off is very remarkable in this country—those
acquainted with the soil
and first growth of timber can foretell
what will be the second and third
growth on land once cultivated or on
new land.

"Preston's Saltville land contains
a description of millstones, easily
quarried, which are equal to the best
French burr stones for flour mills;
and at various points in the vicinity,
and in Russell county are quarries of
various marbles. In the valleys,
buried in the soil, are innumerable
rounded sandstone rocks, some of
which are flinty, others of marly ingredients,
and many such loose
stones occupy the shoaly beds of the
streams, but the channels of all
streams are chiefly bedded by limestone,
mica, sandstone, and slaty formations,
whose lamella or divisions
are seldom horizontal, until you arrive
at the level of the great western
rivers. You may here find ledges
of rocks extending hundreds of miles


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in a perpendicular posture, occasionally
broken where ridges transverse
each other; but in the general these
ledges are either massive and of waving
configuration and striated irregularly,
or are inclined at angles whose
medium may be 45 degrees of the
horizon, and it would seem, that they
had perpetually sought to reach that
angle, notwithstanding such prominent
failures so to do. The declining
direction is continuous through
the body of the hills and ridges
generally, and the upper plane is
facing the south, as far as parallelism
with the general course of the ridges
will permit; and in consequence of
this southern exposure of the planes
of the rocks in all the mountains
west of the Alleghany to the verge
of those mountains east of the Mississippi,
chemical nature has not the
same variety of surface to work upon,
that it has where the upward direction
of the rocks expose their edges,
on the northwardly side of the ridges,
and as might be expected, the southern
faces are comparatively barren,
whilst the opposite side is rich and
productive, and such differences are
observable even on the south side,
where deep ravines expose the broken
ends of rocks one side, and their
rather plane surface on the other.
This conformation holds immense
quantities of water and pours it forth
even on the pinnacles of the highest
hills, decomposing the ground by
winter freezes and summer drought,
and adding fertility even to the rocks,
the timber growing to enormous
sizes, by passing its roots into the interstices
of rocks. The region of
North Carolina and Tennessee, in
which gold is found, about 60 to 100
miles from Saltville, borders on the
primitive granite and basaltic walls
that rise under the Blue Ridge, and
are rarely exposed on its western
face; and in Virginia, the copper
mines of Grayson and Wythe are not
remote from similar constructions.
The lead, iron and salt minerals are
found in, or bedded upon limestone,
slate and other rocks of the transition
kind, while stone coal and gypsum
and sandstone are evidently all
of a much later formaton, as they do
not run under, but stop short, on
reaching masses of primitive and
transition rocks. The great upper
body of the Clinch and Cumberland
mountains, and their appending
chains are chiefiy formed of strata
and irregular masses of sandstone,
which is undergoing great changes,
decomposing in some parts and increasing
and hardening in others;
much of the limestone composing
the basis of these mountains is a very
coarse and impure carbonate. The
multitude of sulphur and chalybeate,
hot and cold springs, and their various
medicinal qualities in Bath, Monroe,
Buncomb and other places that
deserve to have celebrity for their
waters, exhibit astonishing chemical
changes yet going on far below the
earth's surface. After passing westwardly,
beyond the verge of these
broken ranges, you perceive great
uniformity and order in the conformations
of rocks and soils. The
rivers and creeks are based with good
limestone, lammellated horizontally,
and having fissures at unequal distances,
extending perpendicularly to
great depths. Commencing at the
surface, there will be found rich,
loamy soils, and clays, often mixed
with gravel or sandstone to the depth
of six or ten feet, then limestone as
described, next a white coarse limestone
four to eight feet, in one, two,
or three strata, next limestone of
thicker layers, sometimes fifty feet;
then a layer of gray, blue, or black
flint, three to six feet; next blue brittled
limestone all fissured and lammellar,
then slate of a dark brittle
kind, horizontal and of considerable
depth, containing brilliant yellow,
oval lumps of sulphur and iron, below
which are layers of hard, flinty,

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dark rocks, with occasional layers of
slate. At places like these, and other
formations of a standard kind, those
who would undertake to classify
rocks into different ages, might form
plausible theories which would `vanish
into thin air' when tested by the
mixed up productions of this mountainous
country. Here rude shapes
of simple organization are sometimes
seen in the transition, or what little
agrees with the secondary limestone
of the west.

"Saltville was the property of
General William Campbell, the hero
of Kings' mountain, and after his
decease his only child Sarah, married
General Francis Preston, who
rented the well and salt marsh to
Wm. King, an enterprising young
Irishman, who conducted the business
profitably, returned to Ireland
for his father and brothers and sisters,
and in a few years in partnership
with the late Josiah Nichol of Nashville,
and other worthy mercantile
partners, on whom fortune has always
smiled, had amassed very handsome
profits. Wm. King apprised
General Preston and lady, that a
tract of land adjoining theirs was for
sale, and advised them to purchase,
as salt-water could be procured upon
it, and upon their declining, he parchased
it for about $2,000.

King and Nichol then dug a twelve
foot square well, cribbing it with
timber, and paying the Rev. Mr. Colley
about $2,000 for its expences, until
the opening was about two hundred
feet in depth. King had marked
out the spot and declared he would
go on until water was found, and
Nichol withdrawing from the concern,
on digging twelve feet deeper,
the well filled to within forty feet of
the surface of the earth with salt
water, of which thirty-two gallons
would make, on drying the salt, a
measured bushel of 50 lbs. weight.
This was on the 6th of April, 1797,
and the quantity of water being inexhaustible,
by any use made of it,
salt was reduced from $5 to $1 50
cts. per bushel; and a more liberal
rent was given General Preston of
$9,000 per annum for his well, which
then ceased to be worked; and the
parties continued on the most friendly
terms towards each others' welfare.
William King having in view
to encourage every branch of industry,
and calculating that thereby immense
wealth would flow to himself
enlarged his mercantile pursuits
dealt with great liberality, and becoming
very popular, his wealth so
increased, that at his death, the 13th
October, 1808, his personal estate
was estimated at above one million
dollars.

"Preston's and King's works were
then conducted by his widow, now
Mrs. F. Smith, James King and
Wm. Trigg, as devisees of a life
estate; and since by Col. Jas White;
at present by Wm. King & Co; Mr.
King being the only son living of
James King and devisee of the estate
in remainder from his uncle
Wm. King, who died without children
Gen. Preston's and King's
works in the first lease to Col. White
were rented at $30,000 each per annum,
but have not been so productive
of late years as is understood.

"During the year 1832, Gen. Preston
not being satisfied with the goodness
of his well, employed Mr. Anthony,
an ingenious mechanic and
partner of Dubrough's in a patent
plan of boring, to sink cast iron tubes
of five inch bore 218 feet or the
depth necessary, where was found a
supply of salt-water, sufficient for
400 bushels of salt daily, the water
being stronger than any known, 22
to 24 gallons producing 50 lbs. salt.

"The space in which good saltwater
can be procured in large quantities
is very small—in the vicinity
of Saltville has been expended above
$40 000 in fruitless digging and boring
by the owners of land. Preston's


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new tubed well is only 40 yards
from King's, and an experiment on
King's land, within 40 feet of the
old well made last month, produced
no water at the depth of 270 feet,
though the borings were for many
feet through the salt rock, and partly
through gypsum, blue and red clay
and half formed sand stone.—The
formation below the depth of 200
feet, in which salt-water is found,
seems to be on a slaty basis, at an inclination
of about 15 degrees facing
the south east, and in King's old
well, whence has been drawn water
for 40,000 bushels of salt in the last
60 days, there are large irregular
columns of plaster or gypsum, and a
plaster roof supporting the ground
above, the interior clay for 40 or
more feet in some directions having
been washed away. Into these openings
near 100 cords of wood were
thrown, but all disappeared. From
all the borings and the most careful
observation, it is evident, at this place,
that both the sand-stone and plaster
are above, and of more recent formation
than the muriate of soda.

"The crater-like sides of the transition
rocks exposed around Saltville,
at some points, into which the plaster
never intrudes, has given rise to a
conjecture, that at some ancient period,
the plane on which stands Saltville,
was as high as the adjacent
hills; and that by a dissolution of
the saline substratum which the river
(being lower) may have received, the
upper earth gave way, throwing the
rocks into their present disjointed
state, and the surface of all which
has been levelled by the washings
from the hills, and by the imperceptible
workings of time; and this conjecture
would seem to be supported
by the numerous bones and teeth of
the Mastodon and other animals found
at any depth yet approached.

"The surface of the salt-water being
some thirty feet higher than the
river water, has suggested to Mr.
Anthony the use of a syphon, half a
mile in length to draw the water from
the well, without a force pump; and
the facility of conveying the water
to wood or more convenient points of
navigation, is now clearly tested by
its transfer in tubes two miles. Salt
at the works is now reduced to two
cents per pound, which will, no
doubt, cause more economy to be
used in its manufacture and transportation;
so far, there appears, however,
to have been no advantage taken
of the great evaporating improvements
used at the salines in New
York, or the sugar factories of the
South. At Saltville, the furnaces
are trenches dug in the earth, the
kettles several inches thick—the furnace
doors large and open, and placed
under open sheds; and in some instances
streams of fresh water sweeping
from the hills issue out of the
furnace flues; but doubtless the present
proprietors will make the necessary
improvements. The salt made
is free from all impurity, its chrystals
are large by slow, and fine by
rapid evaporation; and white and
brilliant, and when thrown from the
basket, soon becomes as dry as corn
meal, never deliquescing or giving
off any water, even in the wettest
weather. No settling or clarifying
process is necessary, the water being
a clear semi-transparent, somewhat
whitish fluid, which after being released
from its great pressure in the
deep parts of the well, seems incapable
of holding in solution, the former
quantity of saline material. The
slight excess of muriatic acid over
the soda is united in the boiling with
some free gypsum, and precipitated
to the bottom, where attaching itself
to the mettle and becoming heated,
additions of salt are constantly made,
till it endangers breaking the kettle,
and is very difficult (once weekly) to
separate from the iron by pick-axes.
In the whole process of manufacturing
this water, no trace of lodine or


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bittern water is to be found—and no
species of settling or clarifying is
necessary, the salt being deposited as
soon as milk warm, is three or four
times daily ladled out of kettles of
96 gallons each. At present, meadow
lands, pasture and farming to
the extent of 2,500 acres appears to
be in use; a saw mill, two grist
mills and about 100 persons, and as
many horses, compose the force of
the place; but as the market is limited,
and not more than four cords of
wood are necessary to make 100
bushels of salt, the apparatus of the
place is unnecessarily large and
wasteful.

"The gypsum-beds on the Saltville
lands are perhaps the most convenient
and abundant in the world, being
only five to ten feet from the surface
of the earth and of the very best
quality. Hundreds of boats and
wagons could be usefully employed
in its transportation, as the whole
lands of this interior country are admirably
adapted to its use."

"There are few places in the world
which can vie with Saltville in beauty
and novelty of scenery. The extended
meadows,—rich ridges—high
conical peaks,—mountain coves,—
clear springs, and the remarkable
verdure covering the soil—set off to
great advantage the lofty Clinch
mountain. The Chilhoway springs
are in the vicinity, and often the
summer visiters add new interest."

Seven Mile Ford, P. O. 362
ms. S. W. by W. of W., and 287
from R.

TAZEWELL.

Tazewell was created by act of Assembly in 1799, and formed out of
portions of Russell and Wythe counties. It is bounded N. by Tug Fork
of Sandy river, separating it from Logan,—N. E. by Giles,—E. and S. E.
by Walker's mountain, separating it from Wythe,—S. by Clinch mountain,
separating it from Smyth,—S. W. by Russell,—and W. by Floyd county,
Kentucky. Its mean length is 66⅔ miles, mean breadth 10⅔; and area
1,305 square miles:—Extending in lat. from 36° 54′ to 37° 32′ N. and in
long. from 4° to 5° 12′ W. of W. C. It is situated immediately within the
vicinity of the sources of Clinch and Great Sandy rivers. The Clinch takes
its rise seven miles N. E. of Jeffersonsville, and pursues a course nearly W.
From the eastern section of the county, the great Kanawha receives many
tributary branches; the principal of which are the Blue Stone and Wolfe
creeks. These have their sources within a few miles of Jeffersonsville,
and after some inconsiderable meanderings assume a N. E. direction. This
county is traversed by several ranges of mountains, some of which rise to
an immense height; the chief of which are the Clinch, Rich, East River,
and Paintlick. Their general course is a little S. of W. Between some
of these mountains are interspersed beautiful valleys, of a black, deep and
rich soil, surprisingly fertile, and perhaps inferior to no county in the state
for grass, which thickly covers every cultivated portion to the very tops of
the mountains. Ten miles N. E. is Abb's valley a delightful vale.—Situated
at its entrance is the Stonefort, a large circular wall of stone, bearing
on its image the stamp of great antiquity, from the ages of the trees on it,
and various other data. The modern savages that were first found in possession
of this county appear totally ignorant, not only of this ancient castle,
but of other relics of antiquity in different parts of this valley. Here


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areslso deposited in lonely caverns, human skeletons of both sexes, and of
various ages preserving in their composition an outline of those general
features that characterise the Indian race. When brought into contact with
the external air, they quickly moulder into dust. Five miles S. W. of Jeffersonsville
is a broken continuation of Rich mountain, termed Morris's
Nob, a noted object of curiosity. Near its S. W. extremity, and 12 miles
from the county seat, is the Maiden Spring Cove, a flourishing settlement,
watered by the Maiden Spring, a S. E. branch of Clinch river. On the
summit of Rich mountain, in view, and one and a half miles S. is a precipitous
ledge of rocks, of stupendous height, called the Peak—commanding
a magnificent view of the surrounding country for 20 or 30 miles.
From this, some 4 or 5 miles a little S. of E. may be seen on the top of
Clinch mountain (immediately before it divides to form Burk's Garden) a
romantic assemblage of huge rocks, thrown together by the hand of nature,
in the wildest confusion, clothed with a variety of perennial growth and
matted with impenetrable thickets of laurel; while far beneath are formed
between their interstices, horrible caverns, and subterraneous recesses, the
retreat of numerous wild beasts, that frequent the surrounding wilderness,
hence its name of Bear Town. On this spot flourishes extensive groves of
balsam copavia, a variety of copaifera officinalis and other strange vegetable
growth not found elsewhere in this region of country.

Inexhaustible quarries of limestone rock, extending in a series of vertical
strata from N. E. to S. W. are found in many parts of the county. Stretching
across the northern boundary are extensive beds of stone coal of excellent
quality.

The principle staples are cattle, horses, hogs, feathers, tow and flax-linen,
beeswax, genseng, seneca, snakeroot, serpentaria, &c. &c.

Compared with the elevation of the water in Great Kanawha, at the influx
of the Greenbrier, ascertained to be 1,333 feet, the lowest elevation that can
be given to the central mountain valleys of this county must be 1,500 feet;
and the mean relative height of the arable soil of the county, at the lowest
estimate 1,200 feet.

Population in 1830, 5,749. It belongs to the fifteenth judicial circuit
and eighth district. Taxes paid state government in 1833, $686 35—in
1834, on lots, $14 88—on land, 313 11—426 slaves, $106 50—2851
horses, $171 06—14 studs, $117 00—5 carryalls, $5 00—Total, $727
55. No report of school commissioner for 1832. Expended in educating
poor children in 1833, $184 23.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Blue Stone, P. O. 279 ms. S. W.
of R. and 337 S. W. of W.—Situated on
Blue Stone river, in the southern part
of the county.

Burk's Garden, P. O. 274 ms.
W. of R. and 349 from W.—Situated
10 ms. E. of Jeffersonsville
Burk's Garden is one of the most remarkable
spots in Western Virginia,
but being out of the track of the tourists,
it has not hitherto been described.
It is insulated by Clinch mountain,
except a narrow pass through
which its waters, by uniting into one
stream, are discharged into Wolf
creek,—its form is somewhat oval,
11 miles long and 5 wide, a beautiful
and perfect level, and naturally very
fertile. The settlement contains 62
families, amounting to 450 souls.
There are 1 house of public worship,
free for all denominations, 1 exten-


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sive manufacturing flour mill, 2 tanyards,
and various mechanics. It is
well timbered with sugar maple, cherry
and white oak. The under growth
consists of Crab apple and hawthorn.

JEFFERSONVILLE, P. T. and
county seat, 352 ms. S. W. by W. of
Washington,—290 a little S. of W.
from Richmond,—and 30 ms. N. W.
by W. of Evansham in Wythe county;—lat.
37° 05′ N. and long. 4° 32′
W. of W. C.—Situated on the south
side of Clinch river, one mile from
its bank, and near the base of the
Rich mountain. Besides the ordinary
county buildings, it contains 20
dwelling houses, 1 house of public
worship, free for all denominations, 1
common school, 4 mercantile stores,
2 taverns, 1 tanyard, 1 saddler, 6
joiners, 2 boot and shoe factories, 1
blacksmith, 2 hatters, 1 painter and 1
grist mill—and a manufacturing flour
mill is situated a mile to the north of
the village. Population 150 persons,
of whom 2 are attornies, and 2 regular
physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Monday
in every month;—Quarterly
in April, June, August, and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 22d
of April and
23d of September, by
Judge Estill.

Four miles N. W. of this village
are situated Cecil's Mineral Springs,
which bid fair to rival any mineral
waters that have yet been discovered
in the western country.

TYLER.

Tyler was created by Act of Assembly in the year 1814, and formed
from a portion of Ohio county. It is bounded N. by Marshall,—N. E.
by Greene co. of Pa., and Monongalia of Va.—E. and S. E. by Harrison,—S.
and S. W. by Wood,—and W. by the Ohio river, separating it
from Washington county, Ohio,—and N. W. by the same river separating
it from Monroe county. Its mean length is 27¼ miles—mean breadth 23;
and area 855 sq. miles,—extending in lat. from 39° 13′ to 39° 42′ and in
long. from 3° 25′ to 4° 12′ W. of W. C. This county declines to the
west towards the Ohio, and is drained by Middle Island and Fishing creeks,
both running diagonally through the county and emptying into the Ohio.
The surface is exceedingly hilly and broken, but the soil is generally of
excellent quality. Population in 1820, 2,314,—1830, 4,104. It belongs to
the twentieth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax—no returns. Expended
in educating poor children in 1832, $259 46—in 1833, $309 23.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Centreville,—situated on the
west bank of Middle Island Creek,
7 ms. E. of Middlebourn, and 16
from Sistersville. It contains 15
dwelling houses, 2 mercantile stores,
and several mechanics.

Fishing Creek, P. O. 330ms. from
R. and 266 N. W. by W. of W.
This P. O. is situated on the head
waters of the creek of the same name,
which is a small stream rising in
Tyler, flowing nearly N. W. in a
winding course, and which about 50
ms. from its source empties into the
Ohio about 39 ms. below Wheeling.

Grape Island, P. O. 316 ms.
from R. and 289 W. of W.

Ingram's Mills, P. O. 313 ms.
from R. and 279 from W.

MIDDLEBOURN, P. V. and


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seat of justice, 307 ms. from R. and
273 W. of W. in lat. 39° 32′ N. and
long. 3° 55′ W. of W., situated on
Middle Island creek, 45 ms. S. W.
of Wheeling. It contains besides
the ordinary county buildings, 25
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist house
of worship, 1 common school, 2 mercantile
stores, 2 taverns, 1 manufacturing
flour mill, 1 tan yard, and 1
saddler. The principal mechanics
are cabinet makers, house-joiners, and
blacksmiths. In the neighborhood
of this place on Middle Island creek,
there is an excellent site for a manufactory.
The stream is large, and
after making a bend, five miles in extent,
it returns to within 90 feet of
the same bed,—making a fall at the
nearest point of approximation of 12
or 15 feet. It is thought that there
is an abundance of iron ore and stone
coal contiguous to this site. Middle
Island creek is one of the principal
streams watering this county,—it is
about 200 miles in length, running a
course east and west through a fertile
valley, and emptying into the
Ohio river. Population 160 persons;
of whom 1 is a resident attorney, and
two are regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 2d
Monday in every month; Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Judge Fry holds his Circuit Superior
Courts of Law and Chancery
on the 24th of April and September.

Pine Grove, P. O. 327 ms. from
R. and 247 W. of W.

Sistersville, P. O. 320 ms. from
R. and 274 N. W. of W. This village
is pleasantly situated on the south
bank of Ohio river, 50 ms. N. W. by
W. of Clarksburg in Harrison Co.,
in a remarkably healthy neighborhood,
commanding a fine view of the
river; and possessing one of the best
landings for steamboats and other
craft on the Ohio. It contains about
30 dwelling houses, 2 mercantile
stores, 2 taverns, a school house, 1
tanyard, and various mechanics.—
Population about 200 persons; of
whom 1 is a regular physician. This
town was laid out in 1814 by commissioners
appointed by the Legislature,
as the county seat of Tyler; but
by a petition presented from the inhabitants
at the session of '15 and '16,
the Legislature was induced to remove
the seat of justice to Middlebourne,
9 ms. nearly east from this
place.

WASHINGTON.

Washington was created by Act of Assembly in 1777, and formed
from a portion of the now extinct county of Fincastle. It is bounded N.
by Clinch mountain, separating it from Russell,—E. by Smyth,—S. E. by
Grayson,—S. by Carter county of Tennessee,—S. W. by Sullivan county
of the same state,—and W. by Scott. Mean length (including Smyth) 41
miles,—mean breadth 18⅔; and area 754 square miles.—We have no
means of ascertaining its precise extent since the severance of Smyth; but
an approximation may be made by reference to that county. It extends in
lat. from 36° 35′ to 36° 52′ N. and in long. from 4° 34′ to 5° 19′ W. of
W. C. This county occupies part of the valley between the Blue Ridge
and Clinch mountains, and is watered by the North, Middle, and South
Forks of Holston, which rise in Wythe and flow through this county, dividing
it into three fertile valleys. But Washington is not less celebrated
for its valuable minerals, than its fertile soil, excellent pasturage, and delightful
climate. The gypsum found in this county in great quantities, is


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said to be equal, if not superior to that of Nova Scotia, and is now being
extensively applied to the same purposes by the farmers of Western Virginia
and Tennessee. A full account of its valuable salt works and other
minerals has however already been given in connexion with Smyth county,—especially
in the article on Saltville,—which village is divided by
the line which separates the two counties.

Population in 1820, 12,444,—1830, 15,614,—both of which numerations
were taken before the severance of Smyth. It belongs to the fifteenth
judicial circuit and eighth district. Tax paid in 1834 on lots, $195 25—
land, $1,131 96—1122 slaves, $280 50—5364 horses, $321 84—39
studs, $226 00—33 coaches, $94 50—31 carryalls, $31 00—6 gigs,
$4 50. Total, $2286 10. The poor children in this county are educated
on the district system, and we have no means at present of of ascertaining
the exact amount.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

ABINGDON, P. T. and seat of
justice,
309 ms. S. W. of R. and 385
S. W. by W. of W. in N. lat. 36°
42′, and long. 4° 58′ W. of W. C.
It is situated on the great valley road,
about 8 miles N. of the Tennessee
boundary,—at the south east side of
a mountain ridge, about 7 miles distant
from either of the two main,
Forks of the Holston river. A part
of the town stands on a considerable
eminence, beneath which there is a
cavern containing a lake.

Abingdon contains besides the ordinary
county buildings, between 150
and 200 dwelling houses,—many of
them handsome brick buildings,—2
Presbyterian and 2 Methodist houses
of public worship, all of them neat
brick edifices. A portion of the inhabitants
are followers of Baron
Swedenborg,—in other words, belong
to the New Jerusalem Church,—but
they possess no house of worship,
and their preacher occasionally occupies
one or the other of the Metbodist
houses.

There is an Academy for females
and one for males, (both brick edifices,)
2 hotels kept in good style, 3
taverns principally used for the accommodation
of wagoners, 1 manufacturing
flour mill, 9 mercantile
houses, some of which are wholesale
establishments, and sell goods to the
amount of one hundred and fifty
thousand dollars annually, 3 groceries,
1 woolen and 2 cotton manufactures,
and 1 well established nursery.

There are 4 tanyards with saddle
and harness manufacturies attached
to them, 10 blacksmith shops, I at
manufactory and store, 6 wheelwrights
and wagon makers, 2 cabinet
warehouses, 3 bricklayers, 2 stone
masons, 3 house carpenters, 3 watch
makers and jewellers, 2 boot and
shoe factories, 3 house and sign
painters, 2 coppersmiths and tin plate
workers, and 3 tailors.

Abingdon is rapidly increasing in
population and trade. Old houses
are giving place to handsome brick
buildings, which the opulent and enterprising
citizens are daily erecting.
The main street has lately been McAdamized
at considerable expense,
but greatly to the improvement of its
utility, beauty, and comfort.

As a specimen of the flourishing
condition of this town, we must mention
that a quarter acre lot, situated
near the court house, recently sold
for upwards of $4,000. There is a
distributing post office here. Population
1000 persons; of whom 13
are resident attorneys, and 3 regular
physicians.

County Courts are held on the 4th
Monday
in every month;—Quarter-


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ly in March, June, August and November.

Judge Estill, holds his Circuit
Superior Court of Law and Chancery
on the 2d Monday after the 4th
of April and September.

It may excite some surprise when
told that in this large and well populated
county, there were in 1831 but
two post offices—the one at Abingdon,
and the other at Seven Mile
Ford; but since the severance of
Smyth, the one at Seven Mile Ford
is now in that county—in consequence
of which we have no knowledge
of any other post office in this
county except the one at Abingdon
the county seat.

WOOD.

Wood was created by Act of Assembly in the year 1799, and formed
from a portion of Harrison county. It is bounded N. E. by Tyler and
Harrison,—E. by Lewis,—S. by Kanawha and S. W. by Jackson,—W. by
the Ohio river, separating it from Meigs and Athens counties, Ohio—and
N. by the same river separating it from Washington county of the same
state. Its mean length (before the severance of a portion to form Jackson
county) was 40½ miles—mean breadth 30⅓; and area 1,223 square miles.
It extends in lat. from 38° 52′ to 39° 27′ N. and in long from 3° 56′ to 4°
42′ E. of W. C. Nearly the whole of this county is embraced in the valley
of the Little Kanawha and its tributaries Hughes' river,—and North
Fork of Hughes' river. A small portion on the northwestern border is
drained by creeks into the Ohio. The surface is much broken, but the soil
is for the most part good. Population in 1820, 5,860,—in 1830, 6,429. It belongs
to the nineteenth judicial circuit and tenth district. Tax paid in
1833, $1,150 24—in 1834 on lots, $112 12—land, $885 74—1040 slaves,
$260 00—4326 horses, $259 56—26 studs, $223 00—11 coaches, $28 50
—31 carryalls, $32 00—1 gig, 50 cts. Total, $1901 42. Expended in
educating poor children in 1832, $292 34—in 1833, $533 78.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c

Belleville, P. O. distant 314
ms. both from Richmond and Washington.

Bull Creek, P. O. 299 ms. W.
of W. and 334 from R., situated 13
ms. above Parkersburg in a thickly
settled neighborhood. Bull creek is
a small stream which rises in Wood
county, and empties into the Ohio, 7
miles above Marietta in the State of
Ohio. There are located on this
creek several mills, mercantile stores,
and 1 Baptist house of worship.
The land is fertile, producing the ordinary
staples,—and is well adapted
to grass.

Jacksonville, P. O. distant, 281
ms. both from W. and R., situated on
the Little Kanawha. It contains 12
dwelling houses, 1 Methodist, and 1
Baptist house of worship, 1 common
school, 2 mercantile stores, 1 benevolent
society, 1 tan yard, 1 grist and
2 saw mills, and several mechanics.
Population 64 persons, of whom 1
is a physician.

PARKERSBURG, P. V. and seat
of justice,
299 ms. from R. and 299
N. W. of W., situated on the point
above the confluence of the Little
Kanawha with the Ohio river, 12
ms. below Marietta in Ohio. Besides
the ordinary county buildings,
it contains 75 dwelling houses, 1


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house of public worship (Methodist,)
7 mercantile stores, 4 taverns, 3 common
school, 1 steam saw mill, 1
printing office (issuing a weekly paper,)
2 tan yards, 1 saddler, 3 cabinet
makers, 2 boot and shoe factories, 2
blacksmith shops, 3 tailors, 2 hatters
and 1 rope-walk. Population 500
persons; of whom ten are resident
attorneys, and 2 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the 3d
Monday
in every month; Quarterly
in March, June, August and November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 1st of
April and September,
by Judge Summers.

Pennsborough, P. O. 303 ms.
from R. and 268 from W.

Schultz's Range, P. O. 324 ms.
from R. and 219 W. of W., situated
on the Clarksburg road, on the waters
of Cow creek, (6 miles from its
mouth,) which empties into the Ohio
river;—15 miles from Marietta and
20 from Parkersburg. Schultz's
Range is the name of a tract of land,
of 25,000 acres laid off in lots of
500 acres each, all of which is in
this county. The north western turnpike
runs through a part of this tract,
on Walker's creek. The range contains
5 families, in all about 30 persons.

WYTHE.

Wythe was created by act of Assembly at the session of 1789-90, and
formed from a portion of Montgomery. It is bounded N. by Giles,—E.
by Montgomery,—S. by the Iron mountain, separating it from Grayson,—
W. by Smyth,—and N. W. by Walker's mountain, separating from Tazewell.
The greater part of Wythe is situated in a mountain valley included
between the Iron mountains and Walker's mountain. Its mean length
(before a portion was taken to form Smyth) was 45½ miles,—its mean
width 22⅓ and its area 1998 square miles. It extends in lat from 35° 44′
to 37° 11′ N., and in long. from 3° 34 to 4° 20′ W. of W. C.

Wythe valley is an elevated table land. From the south western part
flow the head waters of the Middle Fork of Holston, interlocking sources
with some of the branches of New river, which flows across the eastern
angle of this county. The characteristic features of the scenery of this river
are its sublimity,—its banks are generally terrible cliffs, and toppling
precipices of solid limestone, often hundreds of feet in height, and inaccessible
to any foot save those of the bird and reptile. There are few plains on
this river, and those few are comparatively small, rarely if ever extending
to the width of half a mile.

The principal creeks, are Red, Cripple, Peak, Cove and Walker's, tributaries
to New river on its northern side, and Big and Little Island and
Poplar camp creeks on the southern. The first named creeks run S. of
E., the latter N. E.

The grandest and most prominent features of this county, are its mountains.
Of these the largest is called Walker's mountain, which together
with other smaller ones, such as Little Walker's mountain, Brushy, Little
Brushy, Cove
and others, lie between the Iron mountain on one side, and
the Garden mountain, Clinch mountain and others (not however in Wythe
but the adjoining counties) which are parts of the Blue Ridge on the other.
The general course of all these mountains is from N. E. to S. W. and they


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are generally connected with each other by spurs. There are two other
mountains in this county, which are detached chains,—the one called the
Lick, and the other Draper's mountain, the former being some 12 or 15
miles in length, the latter 6 or 8.

The "Rich Valley of Holston" lying on the North Fork of that river
commences with the head of the stream in the N. W. part of Wythe. That
part of it lying in this county, has a pre-eminent claim to the title. There
is in the eastern part of this county a valley called Draper's valley, a delightful
tract of some 5 or 6 miles in length, and ranging in breadth from
half to one and a half miles, having Draper's mountain on its N. side, and
on the other, hills and highlands. The soil of Wythe cannot be said to be
rich, but sufficiently fertile to produce all the necessaries of life. It possesses
the characteristic of all the soil of western Virginia, the faculty of
renewing itself in grass, and is peculiarly benefitted by the cultivation of
clover. Many if not all of the farmers are learning to use gypsum, and
find it peculiarly beneficial. Small gram of all kinds is raised with facility,
as also corn and potatoes,—the latter of the finest quality. Fruits of all
the common kinds, such as apples, pears, cherries, plums and peaches are
easily produced, but the lateness of the season, and shortness of the summer
often cuts off the hopes of the inhabitants in the bud.

Wythe is rich in minerals. Iron is abundant almost every where.
Lead is found on the river in abundance, and is worked with profit. There
are three establishments for making lead in the county, and which manufacture
about 200 tons per annum. There is one iron manufactory in operation.
Gypsum is found in Wythe, though not so abundant as in the
neighboring county of Smyth. There are large beds of coal in this county,
untouched for want of a turnpike or some improved means of transportation.
No county in the state suffers more than Wythe for want of internal improvements.
Her mineral wealth has hardly commenced a developement,
and must probably lie dormant another century, until there shall be more
public spirit, or less sectional feeling in the legislature. There have been
some copper and silver specimens found in working the lead mines, but in
no great quantities. The elevation of Wythe is about 1600 feet above the
level of the ocean.

Population in 1810, 8,356—1820, 9,692—1830, 12,163. It belongs to the
16th judicial circuit and 8th district. Tax paid in 1833, $1,805 59—in
1834, on lots, $112 12—on land, $985 74—1,040 slaves, $260 00—4,326
horses, $259 56—26 studs, $223 00—11 coaches, $28 50—31 carryalls,
$32 00—1 gig, 50 cents. Total $1,901 42. Expended in educating poor
children in 1832, $373 53—in 1833, $408 60.

TOWNS, VILLAGES, POST OFFICES, &c.

Austinville, P. O. 265 ms. from
R. and 341 from W.

Draper's Valley, P. O. 235 ms.
S. W. of R. and 310 S. W. of W.,
situated 16 ms. E. of Evansham, and
12 W. of Newbern. It contains several
dwelling houses, 1 mercantile
store, 1 tanyard, &c. Population 15
The soil of the surrounding country
is fertile, producing well Indian corn
wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat and potatoes.
It is also well adapted to pasturage.
Extensive iron works are
carried on in this neighborhood.

EVANSHAM or WYTHE C. H.
P. V. 253 ms. S. W. of R. and 329 S.
W. by W. of W., in lat. 36° 56′ N.
and long 4° 5′ W. of W. C. Besides


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the ordinary county buildings, this
village contains from 90 to 100 dwelling
houses, 1 house of public worship,
(Methodist,) 9 miscellaneous
stores, 2 cabinet makers, 1 painter
and glazier, 1 coppersmith, 1 tin plate
worker, 4 boot and shoe makers, 2
tanyards, 3 saddlers, 1 printing office,
issuing a weekly paper, 4 taverns
and 6 blacksmith shops. Population
about 600 persons; of whom 7 are attornies
and 5 regular physicians.

County Courts are held on the
2d Monday in every month;—Quarterly
in March, June, August and
November.

Circuit Superior Courts of Law
and Chancery are held on the 7th
of April
and September by Judge
Brown.

Early Traditions.—There is much
traditionary lore in this county among
the old settlers. One romantic circumstance,
though not exactly inaccordance
with this work, may be worth
recording as evincing the difficulties
of various sorts, which occurred in
first settling the frontier counties of
the state.

The incident alluded to, is that a
man by the name of White, who lived
on Walker's creek, was out with
General Rogers Clarke. The
General being in want of intelligence
as to the future plans of the enemy,
and being desirous of obtaining information,
sent out White by himself to
bring him in an Indian. White
went out, and after two days unsuccessful
hunt returned without one.
The General still being determined
to have an Indian, sent White out the
second time, saying take companions
if you will. White being remarkable
for size, strength, agility, courage and
prudence, selected two men, and started
with the determination of having
an Indian if he went to Canada for
him. After a days travelling they
struck on a faint trail, which, by the
middle of the third day, took them to
an Indian village. White cautiously
crept up to reconnoitre, and discovered
a large muscular Indian, sitting on
a log with his back towards the
whites, and facing the Indian encampment,
engaged in mending a moccasin.
The Indian was partially concealed
by a tree, under which he was
sitting, from the view of the villagers.
White at once, though fully aware of
the danger of the attempt determined
to carry that Indian to Clarke, and
leaving his companions, not thinking
it prudent for the three of them to
proceed for fear of discovery, he crept
softly up behind the Indian, who sat
perfectly unconscious of danger;
till he felt the grasp of White on his
throat, and saw a pistol presented at
his head. White in a few hurried
words, in the language of the tribe,
told him that if he made any noise o
resistance he would shoot him instantly
through the head, but if he
went with him quietly he would promise
he should return to his tribe.
The Indian submitted to his fate and
White carried him in triumph to
Clarke, who immediately on seeing
him, said "this is no Indian," enquiry
being made of the prisoner who and
whence he was, he said that he was
born of white parents, that when a
small boy, the Indians attacked the
settlement, killed all the family save
his elder brother, who escaped during
the onset, and took him prisoner.
He described the place from which
he was taken. During the recital,
the countenance of his captor appeared
very much agitated, he asked him
several abrupt questions as to his early
rememberances, and finally cried out,
I am your Brother." All circumstances
went to confirm the truth of
this assertion, even to the similarity
of persons. The exile was restored
to society, and for many years sat in
the legislature of Kentucky,
but still
so far retained his old habits and predilections
as to spend months at a time
in the woods.



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VIRGINIA DELEGATION.

HOUSE OF DELEGATES.

Number of Delegates to which the several counties are entitled under the
late Constitution.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       
Accomack, 
Albemarle, 
Alleghany, 
Amelia, 
Amherst, 
Augusta, 
Bath, 
Bedford, 
Berkley, 
Bottetourt, 
Brooke, 
Brunswick, 
Buckingham, 
Cabell, 
Campbell, 
Caroline, 
Charles City, and 
New Kent, 
Charlotte, 
Chesterfield, 
Culpeper, 
Cumberland, 
Dinwiddie, 
Elizabeth City and 
Warwick, 
Essex, 
Fairfax, 
Fauquier, 
Fayette and 
Nicholas, 
Fluvanna, 
Floyd, 
Franklin, 
Frederick, 
Giles, 
Gloucester, 
Goochland, 
Grayson, 
Greenbrier, 
Greensville, 
Halifax, 
Hampshire, 
Hanover, 
Hardy, 
Harrison, 
Henrico, 
Henry, 
Isle of Wight, 
James City, 
Williamsburg, and 
York, 
Jefferson, 
Kanawha, 
King & Queen, 
King George, 
King William, 
Lancaster and 
Richmond 
Lee, 
Lewis, 
Logan, 
Loudoun, 
Louisa, 
Lunenburg, 
Madison, 
Mathews and 
Middlesex, 
Mason and 
Jackson, 
Mecklenburg, 
Monongalia 
Monroe, 
Montgomery, 
Morgan, 
Nansemond, 
Nelson, 
Norfolk County, 
Northampton, 
Northumberland, 
Nottoway, 
Ohio, 
Orange, 
Page, 
Patrick, 
Pendleton, 
Pittsylvania, 
Pocahontas, 
Powhatan, 
Preston, 
Prince Edward, 
Princess Anne, 
Prince George, 
Prince William, 
Randolph, 
Rappahannock, 
Rockbridge, 
Rockingham, 
Russel, 
Scott, 
Shenandoah, 
Symth, 
Southampton, 
Spottsylvania, 
Stafford, 
Surry, 
Sussex, 
Tazewell, 
Tyler, 
Washington, 
Westmoreland, 
Wood, 
Wythe, 
Norfolk Borough, 
Petersburg, 
Richmond City, 
Total  134 


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SENATE.

The Constitution lays off the Senatorial District as follows:—

Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, and (Marshall,) 1,—Monongalia, Preston and Randolph,
1,—Harrison, Lewis and Wood, 1,—Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Logan,
Nicholas, (Fayette, Jackson,) 1,—Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles, Montgomery,
and (Floyd,) 1,—Tazewell, Wythe, Grayson, and (Smyth,) 1,—
Washington, Scott, Lee, 1,—Berkley, Morgan, and Hampshire, 1,—Frederick,
Jefferson, 1,—Shenandoah, Hardy, and (Page,) 1,—Rockingham,
and Pendleton, 1,—Augusta, Rockbridge, 1,—Alleghany, Bath, Pochahontas,
and Botetourt, 1,—Loudoun, and Fairfax, 1,—Fauquier, and Prince William,
1,—Stafford, King George, Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, and
Northumberland, 1,—Culpeper, Madison, Orange, and (Rappahannock,)
1,—Albemarle, Nelson, and Amherst, 1,—Fluvanna, Goochland, Louisa,
and Hanover, 1,—Spottsylvania, Caroline, and Essex, 1,—King & Queen,
King William, Gloucester, Mathews, and Middlesex, 1,—Accomack,
Northampton, Elizabeth City, York, Warwick, and City of Williamsburg,
1,—Charles City, James City, New Kent, Henrico, and City of Richmond,
1,—Bedford, and Franklin, 1,—Buckingham, Campbell, and Cumberland,
1,—Patrick, Henry, and Pittsylvania, 1,—Halifax, and Mecklenburg, 1,—
Charlotte, Lunenburg, Nottoway and Prince Edward, 1,—Amelia, Powhatan,
Chesterfield, and Town of Petersburg, 1,—Brunswick, Dinwiddie,
and Greensville, 1,—Isle of Wight, Prince George, Southampton, Surry,
and Sussex, 1,—Norfolk, Nansemond, Princess Anne, and Borough of
Norfolk, 1.

()Those counties in brackets have been created since the Constitution, from portions
of the districts to which they have been assigned.

The arrangement of the counties into Congressional Districts since the last census,
is given after the District of Columbia.



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DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

ESTABLISHMENT, SITUATION, BOUNDARIES AND EXTENT.

The sixteenth clause of the eighth section of the first Article of the
Constitution of the United States gives to Congress the power
"To exercise exclusive legislation in all cases whatsoever, over such district
(not exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular states,
and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of government of the
United States."—In pursuance of this power General Washington, by
authority from Congress, after great research and observation selected the
present District of Columbia, as the site for the metropolis of this Great
Empire of Confederated Republics. It was ceded in 1790 by the states of
Virginia and Maryland to the United States, and became the seat of government
in 1800.

It lies upon both banks of the Potomac, in form an exact square of 10
miles, containing of course 100 square miles, or 64,000 acres. Two of its
sides run in a N. E. and S. W. direction,—at right angles to the other two
running in a S. E. and N. W. direction. It extends in lat. from 38° 46′
30″ to 38° 58′ N. nearly; and the long. of the capitol (which we assume
as zero with respect to all other places in this country) has been found by
accurate astronomical calculations to be with reference to Greenwich, the
English point of reference, 76° 55′ 30″ west.

The District on the Virginia side is bounded by the county of Fairfax,
and on the Maryland,—by Prince George county on the S. E. and Montgomery
county on the N. W.

The location of the District having been determined on, the first stone to
mark its boundary was set in Jones's Point, the uppermost cape of Hunting
creek, on the 15th of April, 1791, in presence of a large concourse of
spectators. Of the 100 miles square included in the District, 36 lying south
of the Potomac, and included in the county of Alexandria, were ceded by
Virginia. A strip 10 miles long, by about 8 broad lying N. of the Potomac
and comprehended in Washington county was ceded by Maryland.

The surface of the District is gently undulating, affording fine sites for
the cities within its limits. In a commercial view its situation is highly favorable.
Ships of any draught can be navigated to Alexandria, and those
of very considerable size to the Navy Yard on the East branch of the Potomac,
at Washington. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal, and the fine
roads which the government has made in every direction, also contribute
much to its commercial advantages.

SOIL.

There is as much variety of soil as of surface in the District. The hills
are for the most part covered with forests, and the vales are cultivated or


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covered with wild shrubbery, presenting a landscape, almost every where,
of great beauty. Springs of the finest quality abound.

Rock creek, Tiber creek, and the Eastern Branch of the Potomac on the
north,—and Oxen Run on the south,—and Four Miles Run on the west,—
irrigate a great portion of the District.

The Potomac presents a vast sheet flowing from N. W. to S. E. Viewed
from Fort Washington,—with the mouth of the Eastern Branch on the
left,—the main stream on the right,—and the opening of Four Miles Run
in front, it presents the appearance of a great inland sea, rather than of a
river.

The composition of the soil on the banks of the Potomac and the Eastern
Branch, is a deep alluvial—rich and various—accumulated from the depesites
of successive ages,—and the gradual retreat of the waters. Fragments
of primitive rocks, pyrites, gravel, sand, shells and decayed vegetable
substances are mingled together.

The soil generally near the river is fertile and productive, elsewhere rather
thin, and sometimes sandy; but susceptible of great improvement.
The most forbidding and barren looking with ordinary attention, and by
the use of manure and gypsum, may be fertilized to an extraordinary degree.

With such a soil, nothing is wanting but enterprise and perseverance to
change the face of nature from a barren-waste, to a blooming garden, and
one would think that a market of sufficient extent to stimulate to the requisite
exertion was presented almost at the very doors of the farmer and horticulturist;—if
indeed the facilities for water transportation afforded by the
Potomac and its branches do not bring the more distant, but more fertile
portions of Virginia and Maryland into injurious competition.

The Rock creek lands are of a light, loamy nature, with a substratum of
clay.

The staple produce of the country is the same with that grown in the
adjoining portions of Virginia and Maryland, viz. tobacco, wheat, Indian
corn, fruit, and the esculent roots.

There is near the District, on Acquia creek, an extensive quarry of freestone,
and on the Seneca one of beautiful variegated marble, or pudding
stone from which the columns in the Hall of the House of Representatives
were made.

The composition of the city low grounds, lying below the hights, from the
Capitol to Halorama and to the margin of the Potomac, are alluvial, and
appear to have been reclaimed but recently.

Within the memory of many now living, seines have been hauled, and
fish taken, where handsome stores now stand, in the part of Pennsylvania
Avenue in which most business is now carried on, namely—between 9th
and 10th streets.

The extent of the marshes below Columbia College bears evidence that
a part of the stream of Rock creek once found its way across towards the
Eastern Branch, along the foot of the hights which flank the northern
part of Washington.

By judicious draining these swamps have been recently limited to a comparatively
small space, but their existence has still an injurious effect upon
the health of the inhabitants residing in their vicinity. This fact is clearly
established by the improvement of the health of all situated in the vicinity
of the low grounds from the centre market to Capitol Hill.


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Page 473

Pieces of sound timber are often discovered from ten to fifty feet below
the surface. In digging wells, several pieces of black looking limbs of
frees, and entire roots have been found at a considerable depth.—An extensive
stratum of carbonated limbs of trees has been discovered near Bladensburg,
and north of the City, and traced for a considerable distance.

Many of the blocks of stone that compose the walls of the Capitol contain
specimens of the leaves of trees, and ligneous fragments,—and when
exposed to the air they have sometimes shrunk.

On turning up the surface of the soil some curiosities of Indian origin
have been found. Round stone vessels in the shape of common pots, or
bowls, and stone axes are sometimes picked up. A good specimen of an
Indian axe in excellent preservation was found on the farm of Mr. Dunlop
in Montgomery county, Md.—and is yet in his possession. Points of darts,
and arrow heads of stone, used in Indian warfare are met with in many
parts of the District. In some ancient records an Indian fort is mentioned,
as standing on the banks of the Eastern Branch, not far from the spot on
which the powder magazine is now located,—but there are now no traces
of t to be found.

The temperature of the water of the city springs, when brought to the
surface of the earth at midsummer may be set down at 58° of fahrenheit,—
the Bladensburg chalybeate at 64°,—and the stream of the Potomac at 85°,
—and the water in the hydrants in Pennsylvania Avenue generally, where
the pipes are sunk to a proper depth, at 56°, though it may issue from the
fountain at 58°.

GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY

A few years ago a correspondent of a New York print, (generally understood
to be an intelligent member of Congress) took a glance at some of the
prominent geological features of this District; and although there be some
imagination in the sketch, yet, there is enough of science to justify its insertion.

It is obvious, says he to the most careless observer, that over the site of
the Capitol of the United States, and the country far around, the waves of
the ocean once rolled, and that these fields, now quietly tilled by the planter,
were thrown from beneath it by some tremendous convulsion. Where the
great concerns of this nation are now canvassed, and our politicians are
imagining that they may provide for the perpetuity of our republic, memory,
as if mocking their schemes, points to the period when the monsters of
the deep flowed over the spot; and no human being conceived that the waters
would not continue to hide it forever.

The proofs of the amazing changes are numerous and conclusive. It is
announced by the strata of earth; by the rounded stones, like those which
grind and polish each other on the sea shore, and by the numerous secondary
formations, which without analysis, instruct us satisfactorily on the
slightest inspection. In many of the stones found even on the hights around
us, are distinct impressions of marine shells. The lime of which these
shells were constituted, has been decomposed, and has vanished or been
incorporated with the general mass, which, when broken, exhibits the concave
and convex surfaces of the marine substance, and the vacant space produced
by the slow waste of ages not now to be numbered. These stones
are of various composition, some being exceedingly hard, and other soft,


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and others having the character of the coarse grey sandstone, or what has
I think erroneously been called granular-quartz."

The material of the soil is clay, discolored by the oxide of iron. It becomes
fixed by fire, and no place can boast of greater facilities for brick
making.

Rock creek, and its immediate vicinity, is the line between the primitive
formation and the tertiary; from Rock creek up the Potomac, the borders
of the stream is pregnant with primitive rocks in situ and in boulders, with
the exception of a few small pieces of alluvial soil here and there, in the
valley of the river. This is the case for twenty miles or more, when the
country changes to old red sandstone, which continues 20 or 25 miles further
up the river, with occasional ridges of brecca or pudding stone: marble
shows itself in various places along the valley below and above Monocacy.
About a mile, however, east of the entrance of Rock creek into the
Potomac, on the southern point of the city, near the Glasshouse, the final
termination of the primitive rocks that line the bed and banks of the Potomac
above, clearly takes place. In digging wells beyond this point, rocks
or stones seldom obtrude, the alluvial soil every where prevails.—Rock
creek separates the primitive from the alluvial soil. In the former gneiss
abounds, which is succeeded by the amphibolic rock or grunstein. The
gneiss contains small crystalised tubes of magnetic iron, veins of feldspath
and quartz of opaque white color. The rock of the Great Falls of the
Potomac consists chiefly of micaceous schist,—the mica schistoide of Hauy,
or glimmer schiefer of the Germans, and contains grains of iron which
attract the magnetic needle. The stone, with which the basins of the Potomac
canal are lined, is a species of sandstone (gris) similar to that known
by the name of gris des mouilliores [sandstone of coal-beds]. The rock
employed to form the foundation or base of the houses of Washington, is a
species of gneiss, composed of feldspath, quartz and mica, of a leafy texture,
owing to the abundance and disposition of the mica. It contains primitive
sulphurous iron—and also particles of the same metal, which are attracted
by the needle. At Fort Washington there is a ferruginous clay,
known by the name of bd which is employed to dye cloth and thread, of a
reddish color. This substance, when heated, attracts the magnetic needle.
The moulds of petrified shells of the genus arca weighing several pounds,
have been dug up at this place.

Robinson, in his catalogue of American mineralogy, furnishes the following
for the District of Columbia.

Flint,—on the shores of the Eastern branch of the Potomac near the
Navy Yard, in small nodules,—Hornstone, containing organic remains,
agatized wood, woodstone,—three miles north from Washington, sometimes
invested with minute crystals of quartz,—fine specimens and abundant.
Schorl—In Georgetown—in gneiss—lignite and pyritical fossil wood are
found abundantly in digging wells. Iron ore—in the vicinity of the woodstone
locality, in detached masses on the surface—organic remains in sandstone—abundant.

CLIMATE.

The prejudices that some time back existed averse to the general health
of the District, have been dissipated by the monthly publication of meteorological
observations, and the interments in the public grave yards, authenticated


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by the board of health. The climate of course resembles that of the
adjoining parts of Maryland and Virginia. The severity of the winters,
or cold seasons, is no doubt of late years much mitigated. In 1780, Mr.
Jefferson says, the Chesapeake bay was solid ice from its head to the mouth
of the Potomac. At Annapolis, where it is 5¼ miles between the nearest
points of land, the ice was from 5 to 7 inches thick quite across, so that
loaded carriages went over it. In January, 1772, the snow in the District
of Washington was nearly three feet deep, and in some places it drifted to
ten or twelve feet. Of late years not more than as many inches have fallen.
Formerly the river, near Dumfries, was frequently frozen over in November,—heavy
snows fell in the same month, and loaded the forest trees, till their
branches broke under the pressure. The climate, as cultivation progresses, is
rapidly improving. The District is now seldom visited with the long or
severe winters, of which our early settlers so feelingly complained. France,
as well as America, in its uncultivated state, had hard winters.—In the time
of Julius Cæsar, the Rhine was frozen over, and neither the olive nor the
vine was then cultivated. A Gallic winter, once proverbially severe, is now,
under a state of high cultivation, mild and pleasant. In the days of Horace,
mountains near Rome were covered with snow.

The climate of Britain, however, is a remarkable exception; it appears,
in our days, to continue as it was, in the times of Tacitus, moist, cloudy,
and rainy.—So we are encouraged, on the authority of the ancients to look
forward to a progressive improvement and material mitigations on the rigors
of winter, when our soil shall be more generally opened by cultivation; we
may not then be tortured with those extremes of heat and cold, under which
we now labor, varying from 18° below zero, to 98° above, of fahrenheit.

In summer, the District is visited with frequent thundergusts, though, on
the whole they are beneficial, as they tend to purify the atmosphere, and
mitigate the sultriness of the season, which is often as oppressive as within
the tropics. The most remarkable of these tempests or tornadoes occurred
in June, 1811, and August, 1814 during the former, large hailstones
weighing three or four ounces, fell, and destroyed every pane of glass on
the north side of the houses in Alexandria, and in the latter instance, many
houses were blown down and trees laid prostrate, much to the terror of the
British, who at that time held for 24 hours the occupation of the city.

We have no doubt that the degree of caloric has considerably increased,
since the forest trees were cut down on our commons, and wide gravelled
avenues formed: the difference of temperature in favor of the forest shade
is, by some philosophers, reckoned at one fifth less than on an open space.
Bordering as the District does on so many water courses, it may be naturally
presumed, that its inhabitants, in the summer months, are not free from the
annoyance of insects. The musquetoe is the most formidable of this description;
but houses on an elevated site, or with a thorough draught of air,
are seldom troubled with them. On the low grounds, and on the borders
of swamps, ephemeral insects, chiefly of aquatic origin, in swarms of various
descriptions, make their appearance, musquetoe curtains, however, so
common in Carolina, are here very seldom required for the comforts of the
bed chamber.

It may naturally be expected that the sudden changes of the atmosphere,
—though in sound constitutions, they may harden the body,—yet with the
more delicate, produce in winter and spring, colds, coughs, rheumatic affections,—and
in the fall, bilious fevers, agues, &c. nevertheless that part of


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the District in which Washington is located, is at least as healthy, if not
more so, than any other portions of the Union, containing an equal number
of inhabitants.

ABORIGINES.

Of the aborigines of the District we have a very imperfect account. In
1608 the first attempt to explore the Chesapeake and its tributary streams
was made by Smith. Forty principal and subordinate tribes, occupied the
shores of Virginia and Maryland at the time, of whom the Powhatans,
the Manahoacs and Monacans were the chief. The Powhatans roamed
from the shores of the Chesapeake to the Patuxent in Maryland the
Manahoacs and the Monacans on the territory contiguous to York and
Potomac rivers. The Shawanees probably inhabited that part of Maryland
which lies between the Patuxent and the Patapsco rivers, and from
the Chesapeake to the Alleghanies. The Susquehanocks, it is believed,
lived on the banks of the Susquehannah in Harford county, Maryland,
towards the westward, penetrating considerably into Pennsylvania. The
Fockwocks and Nanticokes possessed Kent, Queen Anns and Talbot
counties, Maryland, from the Sassafras river to the Choptank; and the latter
tribe, Dorchester and Somerset counties.

The Manahoacs and Monacans were in alliance with each other, and
waged a confederate and perpetual war against the Powhatans. It is probable,
and it is generally admitted, that they were occupiers of the territory
which forms the present District of Columbia. The Manahoacs, it is
asserted by Colden, afterward assumed the name of Tuscaroras, deserted
their country in Virginia about 1712, and repairing to the west, joined
the Iroquois. In 1669, when a census was taken, it was found that in
sixty-two years, one third of their number were wanting. The valley at
the foot of the Capitol Hill, washed by the Tiber creek, the Potomac and
the Eastern Branch, it is stated on the authority of some of the early
settlers, was periodically visited by the Indians; who named it their fishing
ground, in contradistinction to their hunting ground; and that they assembled
there in great numbers in the spring months to procure fish. Greenlief's
Point was the principal camp and the residence of the chiefs, where
councils were held among the various tribes thus gathered together. The
coincidence of the location of the National Legislature, so near the site of
the council house of an Indian nation, cannot fail to excite interesting reflections
in the mind of the intelligent reader. It is highly probable that
General Washington was acquainted with this tradition.

POPULATION

       
In 1800  14,093  Slaves,  3,244 
In 1810  24,023  Increase in ten years, 9,930  Slaves,  5,395 
In 1820  33,039  Increase in ten years, 9,060  Slaves,  6,377 
In 1830  39,868  Increase in ten years, 6,819  Slaves,  6,054 

GOVERNMENT.

The Congress of the United States is the Legislature of the
District of Columbia, and the President of the United States its highest


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executive officer. The ordinary municipal control is exercised by a Mayor
and Corporation.

Judiciary—Circuit Court.

             
William Cranch,  of Washington,  Chief Judge,  Salary, $2,700 
Bucknor Thruston,  of Washington,  Assistant,  Salary, 2,500 
James S. Morsel,  of Georgetown,  Assistant,  Salary, 2,000 
Francis S. Key,  of Washington,  Attorney,  Fees, &c. 
Alex. Hunter,  of Washington,  Marshall,  Fees, &c. 
William Brent,  of Washington,  Clerk,  Fees, &c. 
Edmund J. Lee,  of Alexandria,  Clerk,  Fees, &c. 

The Chief Judge of the Circuit Court holds also a District Court.

Orphan's Court.

       
Samuel Chase,  of Washington,  Chief Judge,  Salary, $1,000 
Henry Neal,  of Washington,  Register,  Fees, &c. 
Christopher Neal,  of Alexandria,  Judge,  Salary, $800 
Alexander Moore,  of Alexandria,  Register,  Fees, &c. 

The Circuit Court for the District is held at Washington, on the first
Monday in May and December,
and at Alexandria on the second Monday
in April
and the first Monday in November. The District Court is
held on the first Monday in June and November.

ALEXANDRIA.

Alexandria originally called
Belhaven, a Post Town and Sea
Port,
situated on the western bank of
the river Potomac, near the head of
tide water, on the south corner of the
District, 6 miles south of the City of
Washington, and 180 ms. from the
ocean. The meridian of Washington
passing through the Capitol,
leaves the cential part of Alexandria,
near 3′ to the E.—Lat. of Alexandria
38° 48′ N.

This town lies principally in
the District of Columbia, but a small
part of it is in the state of Virginia.
It was incorporated in 1779 by the
state of Virginia, and that part of it
which lies within the District was
ceded to the General Government in
1801. The laws of Virginia, enacted
previous to that time, still remain in
force in the town and county of Alexandria,
except those which have been
repealed by Congress. The municipal
government consists of a Council
of 16 representatives and a Mayor
Four members of the Council are annually
elected in each of the 4 wards
into which the City is divided, and
the Mayor is elected every year by
the Council. The political situation
of Alexendria in common with the
other portions of the District of Columbia
is singular. The President
of the United States is the Governor,
and Congress, the Legislature of the
District, but the people have no voice
nor are their sentiments officially
heard, in any of the political concerns
of the country. The Circuit Court of
the United States, for the District of
Columbia, sits in Alexandria twice a
year, and its expenses are defrayed
by the General Government. From
the decision of the Court, there are
appeals to the Supreme Court of the
United States.

Alexandria is very handsomely
situated. The streets are laid out on
the plan of Philadelphia, crossing
each other at right angles and are
generally well paved. It is consider-


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ed remarkably healthy, and the view
from the City is very fine. The town
is situated in the bottom of a valley
which to the eye of an observer is
terminated in every direction by lofty
and verdant hills. To the north he
sees the City of Washington,—the
Capitol with its beautiful columns,
white walls and towering dome, forming
a most conspicuous object; to the
south, the broad translucent expanse
of the Potomac opens upon him, with
Fort Washington, lying like a white
line on its distant margin, opposite to
Mount Vernon.

The river opposite to the town is a
mile in breadth, and varies from 34
to 52 feet in depth, in the ship channel,
which here washes the shore,—
of course the harbor is naturally very
fine, and it has been much improved
by the erection of large and commodious
wharves.

Commerce.—Alexandria carries
on an extensive trade in flour, tobacco,
sumach, fish, lumber and other
articles, with the Southern states
West Indies and Europe.

       
Barrels.  Half Barrels, 
The inspection of flour in 1829, was  178,874,  and 5,789 
The inspection of flour in 1830, was  166,386,  and 6,385 
The inspection of flour in 1831, was  206,294,  and 6,001 

Besides an extensive trade with the eastern ports of the United States, the
exports to foreign countries for the last 3 years, were in amount as follows:

     
1829,  $687,259 
1830,  628,142 
1831,  864,484 

On the 31st of December 1831 the
tonnage belonging to the town was
8,230 tons, and it is still increasing.
There are 3 Banks in Alexandria
with an aggregate capital of one million,
seven hundred thousand dollars,
and 3 incorporated insurance companies.
The amount of real estate is
assessed at two millions seven hundred
thousand dollars; and according to
authentic information from the treasury
department of the United States,
the town paid into the treasury from
the 31st of December 1791 to the 31st
December 1829 inclusive, on account
of customs, three millions, seven hundred
and thirty seven thousand, one
hundred and sixty one dollars and
twenty seven cents,—on account of the
post office, one hundred and seventy
three thousand, seventy three dollars
and thirty four cents,—for direct tax
in the years 1815-16, eleven thousand,
one hundred and fifty dollars
and seventy cents. The amount of
internal revenue which cannot be accurately
ascertained would swell the
clear revenue from the town of Alexandria,
during the period above mentioned,
to upwards of four millions of
dollars.

Religious and Moral Associations,
Manufactories, &c.

There are in this town 9 houses of
public worship, 2 Episcopalian, 2
Presbyterian, 1 Friends', 2 Methodist,
1 Catholic and 1 Baptist. There
is also a philosophical society, and
an incorporated Library, containing
about 4,000 volumes, a Library instituted
by an association of apprentices
and other minors, a savings fund institution,
an orphan asylum, a poor
house and dispensary, a bible, missionary
and temperance society, a
colonization society, a benevolent society
for improving the condition of
the people of color, a society for furnishing
employment to the industrious,
indigent, and several for supplying
food, clothing and fuel to the
poor in winter. There are several
baking establishments, where ship
bread and crackers are made equal to


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any manufactured in the United States
or elsewhere, 2 ship yards, an extensive
brewery, and several tanneries, a
foundry upon a large scale, with a
manufactory of steam engines and various
machinery for cotton factories,
&c. and several manufactories of segars,
on an extensive scale. Alexandria
contains a handsome market
house, at which a market is held every
morning. It is generally well
supplied with meats, fish, fruits and
vegetables in their season. In the
latter part of the spring, wild strawberries
abound in the adjacent country,
and are brought in great quantities
to market. Over the market
house is the Court-house, clerk's office,
council chamber, town hall and
library; and in the upper story of the
same building an extensive and well
arranged Museum. Over the centre
of this building is a steeple in which
an excellent clock tells the hours on
a bell, that weighs fifteen hundred
pounds.

There is a boarding school for
young men, in which the languages,
mathematics, philosophy, and every
useful branch of education is taught.
A part of the course consists of a series
of lectures on astronomy, chemistry,
&c. in which the principles of the
sciences treated of are illustrated by
experiments with suitable apparatus.
There are also boarding schools for
young ladies, conducted by ladies, in
which are taught all the branches of
polite and fashionable education, and
a boarding school for young ladies
under the charge of Four Sisters of
Charity from Emmittsburg, in the
state of Maryland. This institution,
though but lately established, and not
yet completed, is in a flourishing condition.
When finished it will have
connected with it an orphan asylum.
There are also in Alexandria, free
schools for children of both sexes, and
about 30 other schools, exclusive of
Sunday schools. In the vicinity of
Alexandria is established a Protestant
Episcopal Theological Seminary on
an elevated situation, commanding an
extensive and delightful view of the
District of Columbia, the river Potomac
and the surrounding country.
This institution at present occupies
two large four story buildings, having
space enough between them for
the erection of a centre structure.

Population of Alexandria at different periods.

                       

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Page 480
           
Population 1810— 
Free white males,  2,525 
Free white Females,  2,378 
Total white population 1810,  4,903 
All persons except Indians not taxed,  836 
Slaves,  1,488 
Total population in 1820,  7,227 
In 1820— 
Free white males,  2,667 
Free white Females,  2,948 
Foreigners not naturalized,  153 
Total white population 1820,  5,768 
Amount forward. 
Free colored males,  461 
Free colored Females,  707 
Slaves, male,  606 
Slaves, Female,  820 
Total population in 1820,  8,371 
       
In 1830—  Males  Females  Total. 
Whites,  2,712  2,969  5,681 
Colored, free,  565  816  1,381 
Slaves,  462  739  1,2013,—8,263 

Internal Improvements.—A
canal is now in progress, which will
probably bring a great accession of
business to this town. This canal is
designed to continue the Chesapeake
and Ohio Canal
to Alexandria, and
will be connected with that great
work by a magnificent aqueduct
thrown across the river Potomac, immediately
above Georgetown. The
perpendicular descent from the surface
of the river, above the Little
Falls to tide water, is about 36 feet
and as the canal will be brought on a
level from the head of the Falls to
Alexandria; it is obvious that at the
latter place, it will afford water power
for manufactories to a very great extent.
Towards the construction of
the Alexandria canal, the government
of the United States have appropriated
$100,000. This city is connected
with the interior of the state of Virginia
by several turnpike roads,—
down which the principal part of the
flour is brought that comes to market;
and there are 8 steamboats that regularly
ply between this and other ports,
several of which arrive and depart
daily.

Fisheries.—As Alexandria is the
shipping port of the District of Columbia,
and one of the principal marts
for the immense fisheries of the Potomac,
it may be well to mention, that
in the spring of the year quantities of
shad and herrings are taken, which
may appear almost incredible. The
number of shad frequently obtained at
a haul is 4,000 and upwards, and of
herrings from 1 to 300,000. In the
spring of 1832, there were taken in
one scine at one draught, a few more
than 950,000 accurately counted.—
The prosecution of the numerous fisheries
gives employment to a large
number of laborers, and affords an opportunity
to the poor to lay in at very
reduced prices, food enough to last
their families during the whole year.
The shad and herrings of the Potomac
are transported by land, to all
parts of the country, to which there is
a convenient access from the river;
and they are also shipped to various
ports in the United States and West
Indies. The lowest prices at which
these fish sell when just taken, are
25 cents per thousand for herrings,
and $1 50 per hundred for shad, but
they generally bring higher prices,
often $1 50 per thousand for the former,
and from $3 to 4 per hundred for
the latter,—in the height of the season
a single shad weighing from 6 to
8 pounds, is sold in the market of the
District for 6 cents. Herrings, however,
are sometimes taken so plentifully,
that they are given away, or
hauled on the land as manure for
want of purchasers. Some idea may
be formed of the importance of these
fisheries from the following statement.—

   

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Page 481
           
Number of fisheries on the Potomac, about  150 
Number of laborers required at the Landing  6,500 
Number of vessels employed,  450 
Number of men to navigate these vessels,  1,350 
Number of shad taken in good season, which lasts only
about 6 weeks, 
22,500,000 
Number of herrings under similar circumstances,  750,000,000 
Quantity of salt required to cure the fish,—Bushels,  995,000 
Number of barrels to contain the fish,  995,000 

The herring is not eaten at the best
tables when fresh, but cured, they are
admired by all, keep remarkably well,
and are most highly flavored when
they have been for 2 years in salt.
The Potomac river can boast of the
largest shad fisheries in the United
States. The advantages of the herring
fisheries, she divides with some
other rivers of the south, but it is
equalled by none, unless it be the
Susquehanna.

Should the Chesapeake and Ohio
canal be continued to the Ohio river,
it is obvious that the fisheries of the
Potomac will be of great advantage
to the country west of the Alleghany
mountains, in supplying in great
abundance a delicious and valuable
article of food of which its waters
are entirely destitute. Taken into
view the vast number of fish annually
caught, and the probable increase
in the demand, one might be
led to fear that the supply will at
length be exhausted,—however ample
at the present time, but when we reflect
that the spawn from an exceeding
small number will generate into
myriads and myriads of fish, such a
fear is at once done away; the quantity
is now very great and increasing,—it
is admitted that next to the
small and delicate Nova Scotia herring,
that of the Potomac is by far more
nutricious than any found elsewhere
in the waters of North America.
During the summer, the fall, and
winter months, the variety of good
fish is small, consisting principally
of the large white perch and rock
fish of moderate size, taken with the
line, and of carp and winter shad;
but at certain seasons of the year the
supply is abundant indeed. In the
latter part of the winter and early in
spring, great numbers of large rock
fish, weighing from 25 to 120 lbs.
are taken in seines, just above the
salts and brought to the markets in
the District of Columbia. About 8
years since there were taken at one
of the fisheries on the Virginia side
of the river, about 3 miles below
Washington,[46] at one draught of the
seine, four hundred and fifty rock fish
averaging sixty pounds each, as is
well attested, and was recorded in the
newspapers of the day. Sturgeon
also abounds in the Potomac, and are
of enormous size weighing from 75
to 150 pounds, in some places they
are considered a great delicacy, as in
the James, the Potomac, and the Hudson
rivers,—while on the Delaware
they are considered worthless and
scarcely eaten. The sturgeon comes
up the Potomac twice a year, which
is in the months of May and August,
—presses up to the very foot of the
first falls, and is taken in the greatest
quantity within the District, in
times of freshets in the strong water
between Georgetown and those falls.
They are taken either in floating nets,
with large meshes, or by an ingeniously
contrived hook, not baited,
but by a curious device, prepared to
pierce him on the body so certainly
and so deeply, as to hold him and
bring him in, notwithstanding his
great size and strength; this latter
mode of taking the sturgeon is believed
to be peculiar to the Potomac.[47]


482

Page 482

Water Fowl.—The celebrity of
the water fowl of the Potomac, and
the scarcity of information upon the
subject, render an article upon them
necessary. In the following account
we have availed ourselves largely
of the information contained under
the "Water Fowl," in a useful little


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Page 483
work upon the District of Columbia,
by Jonathan Elliot, Esq.

The summer duck (Anas Sponsa
of Wilson,) is the only species of the
numerous water fowl which frequent
the Potomac, which breed upon its
borders; the others are inigratory.

The whole tribe has been sensibly
diminished of late years, by the new
method of taking them which will
be presently described, and the increased
avidity with which they are
sought by persons to supply the markets.
They are still, however, numerous,—and
consist of various species,—The
swan, the wild goose, and
a great variety of ducks, as the canvass
back,
the red head shoveler, the black
head shoveler,
the duc-a-malard, the
black duck, the blue wing teal, the
green wing teal, and the widgeon.

"Of these, the five species first
mentioned are what are called river
fowl, frequenting only the fresh river;
and the last five kinds are known by
the name of marsh fowl, feeding
principally in the marshes bordering
on the river. Again, of the river
fowl—the canvass back, the red head
shoveler, and the black head shoveler
are denominated drift fowl, from the
circumstance of their collecting in
vast bodies, when at rest, in the middle
of the river, or feeding in deep
water, obtaining their food by diving
to the bottom. The bald face and the
sprig tail, although they avoid the
marshes, feed on the margin of the
river in shallow water, as do the
marsh fowl, by dipping their heads
and necks under only, and all these
described as marsh fowl, are found
feeding on the shores of the rivers
occasionally, except the blue winged
teal, which frequents the marshes exclusively,
and only such as produce
the wild oat, his favorite food. This
duck too differs from all the others
in the time and period of his visits
to this quarter of the country; they
are earlier made and of shorter duration:
he comes about the first of
September, and goes about the first
of November; all the other kinds of
duck arrive with us, as the swan
and geese, from the middle of October
to the middle of November; and
depart from about the first to the
middle of March. As to the qualities
for the table, of these fowl, the
young swan is considered a great
delicacy—while the old one is always
hard, and without agreeable flavor.
The wild goose is deemed much superior
to the tame goose. The canvass
back, it is known, stands unrivalled
in the taste of the epicure, as
the most delicious bird in this or any
other country. The red head shoveler,
and the blue winged teal are
but little inferior to it, in the estimation
of connoisseurs, in that way; and
of all the other kinds of these ducks,
there is not one, when in good condition,
that is not fine game. Most
of them are found in abundance during
the season from the immediate vicinity
of the city of Washington, down
the salts, and some of them are seen
in both the salt and fresh water habitually
or occasionally.

The Swan is not found nearer


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Page 484
than about 30 miles below Washington,
at the mouth of Occoquan, on
the right bank of the river is his
highest feeding ground, which is the
lowest spawning place of the white
shad. Here, and for some 30 or 40
miles below, this noble bird is seen
floating near the shores, in flocks of
some two or three hundred, white as
the driven snow, and from time to
time, emitting fine sonorous, and occasionally
melodious songs, so loud
that they may be heard on a still evening
two or three miles; there are
two kinds, so called from their respective
notes—the one the trumpeter,
and the other the slooper; the trumpeter
is the largest—and when at
full size, will measure from five to
six feet from the bill to the point of
the toe, and from seven to eight feet
from the tip of one wing to the tip of
the other, when stretched and expanded.
They are sagacious and wary
and depend more on the sight than
on the sense of smell. On a neck
nearly three feet in length, they are
enabled to elevate their head so as to
see and distinguish with a quick and
penetrating eye objects at a great distance,
and by means of this same
length of neck they feed in slack
tides, by immersing, as is their habit,
nearly all of the body—and throwing
only their feet and tails out, in three
or four feet water, and on the flatty
shores they frequent, generally beyond
gun-shot, the sportsman availing
himself however of a peculiar
propensity (of which we shall presently
speak more particularly) prevailing
with them and some of the
other water fowl, often toll them within
reach of their fire: the swan remain
here the whole winter, only
shifting their ground in severe weather
from the frozen to the open part
of the river, and dropping down into
the salts where it is rarely frozen.
They get into good condition soon
after their arrival in autumn, and remain
fat until toward spring—when
a few weeks before their departure
about the first of March, they gradually
become thinner in flesh, and in
the latter part of their sojourn here,
are found so poor and light, that
when shot, the gunner gets nothing
fit for use but the feathers whether
this circumstance be owing to their
having exhausted the means of subsistence
at their feeding places, or
that they are taught by him who
rules the universe, in small as well
as great things, thus by abstaining, to
prepare themselves for the long ærial
voyage they are about to undertake,
we pretend not to determine with certainty,
there is nothing more wonderful
in this, than in the fact, which
is notorious, that they by exercise,
regularly and assiduously fit themselves
for this continuous effort, to
bear themselves through the air to
the distance of perhaps a thousand
miles or leagues, large flocks are
seen every day rising from the river
and taking a high position, flying
out of sight and apparently moving
in a circuit to a considerable distance,
again returning at or near the same
place, during the last two or three
weeks of their stay.[48]

The Wild Goose is yet more
wary and vigilant to keep out of
harm's way than the swan. He too
is sharp sighted, but depends much
on his sense of smell for protection;
this is so well known to the huntsman,
that he never attempts, however
he may be concealed from this bird,
to approach it from the direction of
the wind, since he would assuredly
be scented before he could get within
gun-shot, and left to lament his error,
by the sudden flight of the whole
flock. These geese toward spring
often alight on the land and feed on
the herbage in fields, and sometimes
in such numbers as to do great injury


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Page 485
to the wheat fields on the borders
of the river. When so employed
they are difficult of approach, always
taking a position at a distance
from cover of any kind—and marching
in a single and extended rank
flanked by a watch goose at each extremity,
which, while all the others
are busily feeding and advancing
with their heads down among the
herbage, moves erect, keeping pace
with his comrades, his eye and nose
in a position so as to convey to him
the earliest intelligence of the presence
of an enemy, though at a great
distance; and the moment such is
perceived, it is communicated to the
whole company by certain tones used
for alarm, and immediately is responded
to by a halt and the lifting of
heads, and an instant flight, or a deliberate
return to feeding takes place,
according as the nature of the danger,
after the examination may be
considered. In the progress of this
march the centinels on the flanks are
regularly relieved at intervals of
some fifteen or twenty minutes, they
falling carelessly into the feeding
ranks, and others taking in their
place the tour of duty on their march.
In this arrayed state, they are attacked
with great difficulty by the gunner;
his only chance of approach, is by
means of a horse trained for the purpose—and
much precaution is used
in this petite guerre. He first,
on perceiving the flock feeding in an
extensive field—and on none other
will they commit themselves—reconnoitres
the locale, and takes cognizance
of the direction of the wind—
he then having observed the course
of march, enters the field at a point
so remote, as at the same time to escape
close scrutiny, and place his
game in such a relative situation to
him, as that he has the wind,—that
is, be the air light or strong,—it is to
blow from them toward him, and not
from him toward them. Next he is
to estimate by the pace at which he
finds the flock advancing, and by that
he is to assume, under cover of the
horse, at about what point, each moving
in oblique lines, he will be brought
within gun-shot of them. All this
being settled in his mind, he commences
his movement, first having
taken off the saddle and tied up the
bridle, so as to show as little as possible
of it, he then, with his gun in
one hand, and the other on the bridle,
places himself on the side of the
horse opposite to the game, his legs
placed behind the forelegs of the
horse, and his body so bent as to be
concealed by the shoulder and neck
of the horse in this constrained attitude,
he urges his faithful coadjutor
slowly in the direction fixed on, allowing
him every now and then to
stop and regale himself on the young
wheat or the herbage over which he
is making his way. The geese, accustomed,
to find the domestic animals,
and none more common than
the horse, pasturing on the fields they
frequent—see in his approach no
cause of alarm—and if due precaution
has been taken to guard against
the snuffing of the taint of man,
which there is no question that nature
has taught him readily to distinguish,
he arrives in due time within
the deadly reach, and manœvering a
while to get a raking fire, presently
deals out destruction on the thus circumvented
troop. But to attain the
object, great patience and endurance
are necessary. Hours are consumed
in taking and keeping the position
with the requisite accuracy, as we
have been assured by our informant,
who has been an experienced sportsman
in these regions, and often himself
gone through the ordeal of wet
feet, benumbed hands, bare head, and
this crooked position of the body for
several hours, on a stretch, watching
under the neck of the horse, with
snatched glance, the bearing of the
centinels, and on the slightest indication
of suspicion, setting the horse to

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Page 486
feed, with his own limbs and body so
disposed behind him as not be exposed
to the line of vision from the
other quarter until suspicion was
lulled again.

"Ducks.—Of all the duck tribe,
the canvass back, as well on account
of their vast numbers, as their superior
value, are to be placed in the
first class. They breed, as is supposed,
on the borders of the northern
lakes or of Hudson bay, they come
to us periodically, as has been before
said, from the north, and what is remarkable,
have never before been
known to visit, unless rarely and in
small numbers, any other than the
waters of the Chesapeake—and of
these, of late years, they have confined
themselves entirely to the Potomac
and the Susquehannah. Formerly
they frequented also James
river, but for the last thirty or forty
years have deserted that river altogether;
they were called shelldrake
there—as they were in those days in
the Potomac the white duck—on the
Susquehannah, the canvass back; but
latterly the name of canvass back has
been given to them on both these last
named rivers, where they are now
only known. It is well ascertained
that they feed on the bulbous root of
a grass which grows on the flats in
the fresh water of these rivers, because
it is always found in their
craws, and which has very much the
color and the flavor of garden celery;
it is to this food, that is attributed, and
we believe correctly, the peculiarly
delicious taste of their flesh.

"It is said that during a remarkably
hard winter some forty odd years
ago, the wind having prevailed a
long time from the northwest, and
blown so much of the water from the
flats of James river, that it froze to
the bottom, inclosing the long tops of
this grass so closely in the ice, that
when it broke up and was floated off
in the spring, it tore the whole of it
up by the roots and took it away—
and that from that time to the present,
the canvass back duck ceased to make
his annual visit to that river: and it
is added, that about the same time the
carp-fish ceased to frequent it, and
indeed it is affirmed, that this fish is
only found in the rivers, to which
that duck resorts. If this really be
so, it must be, that both are enticed
by the same kind of food, or that the
grass in question, by some other
quality, suits the purposes of the carp
fish.

"The canvass back feeds in from 6
to 10 feet water: he is an expert
diver, and with great strength and
agility, seizing it probably near the
bottom, eradicates the grass, brings it
up root and branch to the surface,
where he bites off the root, (which is
bulbous, white and about four tenths
of an inch across, and six tenths long,)
and eating that only, leaves the long
herbaceous part to float on the water.

"Very frequently there are found
feeding among these fowl, the Bald
Fall Duck;
he has not the power
of diving entirely under water in
search of his food, and here he is
employed in watching the rising of
the canvass back, and in snatching
the grass from his grasp, much to
his annoyance,—and though the bald
face is the smaller duck, as he is
sprightly and active, he often succeeds
to get hold before the other has
done more than put his bill above
water, and to obtain and make off
with the prize, (precious part, the
root and all,) but generally he contents
himself with swimming about
among the industrious divers, and
devouring their leavings, the grassy
part of the plant. The favorite pasture
ground of the canvass back on
the Potomac is between Crane and
Mason's Islands, the first about twenty-five
miles below Washington, and
the latter within the District of Columbia
opposite to George Town.[49]


487

Page 487

"Of late years, because of the increase
of hunters constantly in the
pursuit, and the quantity of craft flying,
they have been in a great measure
driven from the upper beds of
their favorite food, and are seldom,
but in small numbers, seen above the
bridge, across the river at Washington.
But a little lower down, and
where the river becomes wider, when
at rest at night, or when they have
retired from feeding during the day,
they ride in the midst of it in such
numbers as literally to cover acres
of water. When they resort to the
flats for feeding, they separate in a
degree, but yet are found thus employed
in flocks of many hundreds,
and sometimes thousands. Until
within the last five and twenty years,
this game was obtained in no other
way than by shots from the land, and
it was therefore, an object of great
interest and sport with the amateurgunners.

"The positions opposite to their
feeding places were known, slight
blinds of brush wood were thrown up
on the edges of the banks, previous to
their arrival in the fall, of four or five
feet height, under cover of which, in
a stooping posture, the sportsman can
reach the desired point undiscovered
by the sight, (for it happens that this
bird is not like some of its tribe, as
the malard and others, armed with a
strong sense of smell) and here posted,
if one of skill and patience in his
vocation, he waits often no inconsiderable
time for the proper occasion to
give the greater effect to his fire.
Sometimes when the tide makes higher
deepening the water near the bank,
and so inducing the ducks to run
closer in, but most generally foregoing
fair opportunities during every
few minutes, to fire on detached parties,
small in number, until a good
portion of the flock has placed itself
well huddled together, in the desired
position. The habit of these ducks,
which, as we have said, are most expert
divers, is when feeding in flocks
near the bank, to take their course
across the shoal from the outer to the
inner part of it, beginning on the outer
part where the water is deepest,
and progressing inwards with great
bustle and activity, each darting down
head foremost with much velocity, and
presently returning to the surface
with the sought morsel in its bill, despatching
this, and repeating incessantly
the operation presenting a constant
and rapid succession of comers
up and goers down, without order,
and amidst a great splashing of water,
until they find they have approached
the inmost edge of the
growth of grass, when suddenly they
all rise in succession to the surface,
those first up waiting a moment for
the last to come, and now the whole
flock being above water, and exhibiting
three times the number it before
seemed, with one accord, they fall in
to close order, wheel and swim slowly
along, in a direction parallel for
some two or three hundred feet with
the bank, as well to recover from
their fatigue, as to place the column
over ground, not yet foraged; and this
done, facing outward, they re-commence
their work of diving and feeding,
now moving toward the outer
edge of the shoal.

"It is at this critical moment at the
proper stage of the wheeling motion,
that the sportsman in ambush, seeks
to open on his unsuspecting victims
the deadly fire; it is when with elevated
heads and the greater part of
the body out of the water, the ducks
huddled in contact, have presented
their sides to him, that he directs his
sight and draws his trigger on that
section of the flock, which, from its
position, best suits his object. In


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sportsman's phrase, "when he has
got the eye, can ruffle the feather and
string," in other words, when the
game is so near that their eyes can
be seen, and in such position that the
shot may not glance off on the feathers,
and that they can be raked by
the fire; the proper observation of
which rules often gives it more than
double the effect. To gain and combine
all these advantages, only belongs
to the practised and patient sportsman;
he must be acquainted with the habits
of his game, and altho' they pass often
in review very near him, in the
foraging process just described, he
must lie close, and often endure cold
and wet for a considerable time, and
to make his shot tell well, resist temptation,
until in its various manœuvres,
the flock puts itself most in his power;
frequently during the ambuscade,
the wary flock takes alarm from some
movement of the real, or a supposed
enemy, and fly suddenly off, at other
times, in a sense of danger, not so
confirmed, it scatters and swims difectly
from the land with great rapidity,
each duck as it emerges, dropping
the fruit of its dive, and taking
in haste the same track; an inexperienced
gunner believing his chance
gone of doing better fires on them in
this state, before they get out of his
reach, but does little execution. Not
so with the old sportsman, he reserves
his fire, well knowing that if he remains
covered, or when other cause
of apprehension, as of some person
accidentally appearing, shall cease or
have passed away, the flock will, after
reconnoitering at a distance for a
while, return again to its feeding
ground, and particularly will this last,
so determine, because he is fully
aware of the fact, that this swimming
retreat is always performed under the
signal of sauve qui peut, and the double
precaution of each, separating as
widely as possible from the other, and
sinking itself so far under the water
that nothing but the head and part of
the neck remains as a mark.

"There is a singular device practised
too, by sportsmen, for shooting
the canvass back, as well as the other
ducks, denominated drift fowl, in the
Potomac,—the red head and black
head shoveler,
and also the swan,
from the banks; it is called tolling
them in, and there can be no question
of the fact, that each of this description
of water fowl are often brought
within gun shot, by an artifice practised
on some propensity with them,
not easily accounted for. It is sometimes
done by means of a dog, trained
for the purpose, and sometimes by
moving or shaking in a particular
way, the branch of a tree with the
dried leaves yet attached, a colored
handkerchief or some similar thing,
the color, however, in each case, being
of a reddish or yellowish hue;
and an instance of a hunter yet living
on the banks of the Potomac,
who has a thick head of red hair, that
he wears in a large old fashioned
queue, with a long square brush at
the end, often using this brush, shaken
by one hand when lying in wait,
with the rest of his body concealed,
as a decoy to toll in ducks, has been
given us from good authority.

"The Swan is only tolled by a
dog, that is taught to play about within
easy call of his master, at the edge
of the water, the several species of
ducks just enumerated, are to be tolled
by the dog in that way, or by the
other device. In all cases the hunter
contrives to place himself behind a
log or some other cover well concealed,
before he begins his operations,
taking care to observe that the direction
of the wind is not unfavorable to
him, and that the flock he means to
toll is near enough to distinguish such
objects on the shore, and under no
alarm at the time. By what motive
these fowls are influenced, we have
not heard satisfactorily explained; but
certain it is, they are very commonly
brought in from some hundreds of
yards distance, in this way, to within


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point blanket shot. It is said, and
perhaps truly, in the case of the dog,
that they fancy themselves in pursuit
of some animal, as the fox, or mink,
by which their young are annoyed at
their breeding places.

"Of late years, however, these
sports enjoyed by the inhabitants of
the banks of the river, have been very
much interrupted, by the practice
of shooting from skiffs, with long
guns of large calibre, by that class of
gunners, who hunt for the market.
They use a very light small skiff
made quite sharp at the bows, capable
of taking only one man and his enormous
gun, so low that when thus laden,
the gun-wales are within two
inches of the surface, and painted of
the color of the water; in the bottom
of this skiff, scarcely wider than his
body, the man lays prostrate, his face
downwards, his gun fixed on a double
swivel, to the bow-piece, muzzle
out, and the breach being close by his
head, so fixed with an arm over each
side, and grasping a short paddle in
either hand, when within a certain
distance of the flock, he bears down
on it so slowly and regularly, and
keeping the little bark in such direction,
that from its very small elevation
above the level of the water, and
the sharpness of the bow always presented
toward the flock, he often succeeds
in the day, and always in the
night time, to arrive within good distance
for such a piece as he uses,
which is very long, and so heavy as
not to be fited by the usual method of
bringing to the shoulder, and with
four or five times the charge of a
common fowling piece, he commits
great slaughter. Most of this mischief,
if mischief it be, is done in the
night, among the flocks in the middle
of the wide part of the river,
where they retire for rest, and are
found riding asleep with their heads
under their wings; and mischief we
can but think it, since it is believed
that the numbers of the canvass back
duck have sensibly decreased since
the practice was introduced, and we
can but join in the opinion, that this
terrible destruction of them at their
resting places in the night, where not
only are great numbers killed, but very
many are wounded and escape in
the dark, for the time, only to linger
and die, must ultimately drive off the
whole tribe to some place of greater
safety, if not offering such grateful
food. The other drift fowl of this
river have much the habits of, and are
hunted somewhat as are the canvass
back. There is nothing remarkable
either in the habits or the manner of
taking the rest of the wild fowl, we
have enumerated and not particularly
described.

"Sora.—There is yet, however,
one other description of water fowl
frequenting the Pomac, although, of
smaller size, less than the snipe, yet
affording so great a delicacy for the
table, and so much amusement to the
sportsman, that we must not omit to
notice it. It is the Sora of Virginia,
and Rail of Pennsylvania, sometimes
called improperly, Ortolan in the middle
states. It frequents the tide water
marshes of the fresh water of this
river, and is here only for a few weeks,
arriving early in September, and departing
toward the latter end of October.
It is common also we learn,
on the Delaware, and the Schuylkill,
the James river and most of the rivers
in the middle and southern states.
The natural history of this bird has
baffled the efforts of the most diligent
and acute enquiries on such subjects,
it is not known which are its breeding
places, whence it comes to, or whither
it goes from us. It is only certain,
that it appears suddenly in great numbers,
comes lean, soon gets very fat
on the seed of the wild oat, which
constitutes its principal and favorite
food in these waters,—and disappears,
on the approach of the first smart
frost, all at once, as it would seem in
a single night,—no person can give


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evidence of the manner or direction,
of its arrival or departure; but it is
notorious among sportsmen and others,
that they may be found in great
numbers and affording fine sport, on
a given day in the fall, when if a night
of smart frost intervenes, on the next
day, not one is to be found, nor another
seen until the return of their
time of visit on the next year. And
what makes this the more remarkable
is, that they seem badly provided as a
bird of passage, having short wings
and flying heavily, and not being in
the habit, while here, of congregating;
some conjecture that they plunge
into the mud, and lie in a torpid state
all the rest of the year, but this, like
the story of the immer ion of the
swallow, is scarcely credible. Wilson
supposes them to be migratory—
that they have, when it is necessary
to exert it, greater power on the wing
than is attributed to them generally,
and that they come here from a more
northern, and pass on to a more southern
climate which seems to be most
probable.

"They afford fine sport to the gunner
without the necessity of much fatigue
or address, they are generally
shot on the wing, and as they fiy
slowly they are easily brought down
with a light charge of small shot.
The time of the tide must be obseryed—the
gunner in a light skiff, pushed
with a pole, by a man in the stern,
goes into the marsh on the rise of the
tide, an hour or two before high water,
and has to leave it the same time
on the ebb, not only that he may have
a sufficient depth to float his skiff
over the flats and fallen grass, but
because the birds dont rise as freely
on alarm, when by the absence of
water they can escape on foot, by running
ever the mud, and hiding themselves
among the grass, at which they
are very adroit. At a favorable tide,
and when the birds are plenty, there
is busy work for 3 or 4 hours for the
gunner; he may fire almost as fast as
he can load, always, however, at single
birds; for although hundreds are
often all round him, and springing
at every moment within gun shot,
even two are rarely seen together.
In the marshes on the upper part of
the Eastern Branch, and within a
few miles of Washington, this game
is very plenty, and affords much
amusement to the sportsmen every
fall. Lower down the Potomac they
have another mode of taking the Sora,
with less cost, and more expeditiously,
much practised on the gentlemen's
estates in that quarter. It is
done in the night by means of a light.
A canoe is prepared before hand, by
placing across the gunwales amid
ships, a few boards constituting a platform,
of about 3 feet square; this is
covered with clay, to the thickness of
two or three inches, and when dry,
affords a good hearth; a quantity of
light wood, so called, (the heart of the
yellow pine, which after lying falles
in the woods until the sap part is decayed,
and having concentrated its
resinous matter, burns fiercely) is
split into small pieces, and thrown
into the bottom of the canoe near the
hearth, and a boy posted by it to keep
up the fire: two or three men now
embark, provided, one with a stout
common pole to push the canoe, and
the others with light poles 12 or 15
feet long, having a flat board 5 or 6
inches broad, and a foot or so long,
nailed on at one end; and enter the
marshes frequented by these birds on
a dark night, at a time of the tide,
when pretty well covered with water,
the Sora are found perched upon the
long stalks of the reeds and wild oats,
to get out of its way. The blazing
fire throws such a glare of light, all
around for twenty or thirty paces, that
it not only discovers quite plainly the
birds to those at the fire, but it so decoys
or stupifies them as to detain
them in their positions, peeping and
peering at the light, until they are
approached within striking distance


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with the flattened poles, and knocked
on the head one by one; thirty or forty
dozen are sometimes killed in this
way by the crew of one canoe on a
single tide."

 
[46]

The noted fishery called the Sycamore
Landing,
belonging to Gen. Mason.

[47]

"The hook is made of stout, well-tempered
iron, keenly pointed and barbed
with steel, is about thirty inches in length,
bent at the lower end, and much in the
way with ordinary fish-hooks, in proportionately
larger dimensions, and so as to
place the barb on the inside of the curvature;
but the stem, or that part to which
the line is attached, and which is about
twenty-four inches long, instead of being
straight, is bent nearly as the segment of
a circle, the diameter of which would be
equal to the length of the hook—to this
circular part is attached an iron weight
cylindriacally, formed of three or four
pounds weight by a stiff loop, but roomy
enough to allow the weight to slide up or
down the stem, to which the hook is
thrown into the water, this weight not only
answers the end of the common sinker
to keep the line stretched at the depth required,
but by its superior gravity, so soon
as it has reached the point prescribed by
the length of the line given out, it draws
the hook down in a perpendicular position
in the direction of the line, and by its
power of sliding on the stem of the hook,
adjusts itself just at the bottom of this,
and where the curvature in the opposite
direction, that forms the hook proper, begins,
by the instrumentality of this weight
so placed, and operating on the peculiar
form of the hook—while suspended by a
tight line, the hook remains, with the back
of the circular stem turned towards the
hand of the fisherman that holds the other
end of the line, and of course with the
barbed end turned from him, whether held
still, or kept in motion.

Thus prepared the fisherman, sometimes
drags, as it is termed, for the sturgeon;
that is, he rows his light little boat
slowly backwards and forwards, with his
line suspended from the stem at a given
depth; or, sometimes at anchor he lays in
wait, his line stretched perpend cularly
under him, with the hook near the bottom
—when the fish strikes against any part
of the line, it is so stirred by its great
weight as to be sensibly felt by the fisherman,
who then hauls rapidly but steadily
up, until he feels that the hook has come
in contact, and has turned suddenly inward,
the barbed part towards the fish;
when by an instantaneous and strong jerk,
he buries the barb in its body. Here is
the development of the contrivance of
this hook, and here too is exerted all the
tact of the fisherman—the hook is drawn
up as before described with the convex
part of the stem towards the fisherman,
the line touching the fish, consequently
that part of the stem of the hook attached
to the line reaches the fish, with the barb
part turned from it, and as the back of the
stem is drawn on, being circular, only a
small part of it at a time is in contact with
the fish; but at a certain point of this contact,
near the middle of the entrance of
the curve, the weight, from its position
below, and the facility with which the
stem plays in the open loop, so operates as
to cause a sudden turn in the hook and to
reverse the position of the barbed end,
and threw it directly under the fish, with
so smart a tug, that it at once designates
to the practised hand of the wary fisherman,
the critical instant at which he is to
make his last effort; and he succeeds the
more readily in the thrust, because from
the position of the barb, it is brought up
directly against the belly of the fish, which
is of soft skin, unprotected by the bony
shields dispersed over the back and sides.
So soon as the sturgeon is hung, he makes
off with great strength and swiftness, the
line is plaid out to give him play, and the
little boat, if before stationary, is cast
loose, so that when the line is out, the
boat, to which one end was secured, is for
a time darted so rapidly through the water
that her bows are brought almost under,
his speed however presently slackens, his
strength exhausted, and he yields himself
up to be drawn in and hoisted on board.
An instance occurred near the Little Falls
some years ago, of the strength and power
of this fish. A noted fisherman, whose
name is well known, had incautiously
made fast one end of the line to his leg,
and having hung a sturgeon, was dragged
over board and drawn off by it, to a considerable
distance in the river, sometimes
above and sometimes under water, but
from his interpidity and skill in swimming,
he was enabled to get through this
perilous conflict safely, and to conquer
the sturgeon and tow him on shore, without
the aid of his boat. It remains to account,
as to this interesting fishing, by
which the amateurs for sport, as well as
the more humble, for gain, are much attracted,
how it happens that the stugeon
would seem to seek, rather than avoid the
line put out for his destruction, when there
is no bait about it to invite him.

Sportsmen and fishermen, to be good in
their way, as is known, must be well acquainted
with the habits of the animal
they would circumvent and bring within
their toils; the simple solution, in this
case, is said to be, that it is the habit of
the sturgeon to rub itself against any
thing stationary that it meets with in the
narrow waters.

We can't dismiss this subject without
mentioning another singular habit belonging
peculiarly to this fish, that of occasionally
throwing itself to a considerable
distance above water, to the height of at
least eight or ten feet, so that in the pause
between the ascent and descent, the whole
fish is seen suspended in a horizontal position
for a moment, in the air. They
have sometimes fallen in this way, very
much to the risque of those on board, in
the boats plying at the Ferry in Georgetown,
in this District, and an unfortunate
occurrence took place, during the revolutionary
war, productive of a most serious
accident, on the North river. A sturgeon
came down from one of these leaps into a
ferry-boat while crossing that river, on
the lap of an American officer, who was
a passenger and sitting in the sturn, with
such violence as to break his thigh and
occason his death."

[48]

Perhaps this exercise may account for
the leanness—and perhaps to produce this
leanness may be a motive for the exercise.
Ed. Gaz.

[49]

When this part of the river is congealed,
usually in January, they are driven
by the ice lower down, to the brackish
or salt water, and return on its dissolution
towards spring, but never in such condition,
or with such good flavor; nor do
they recover these after such an absence,
during that season.

GEORGETOWN.

Georgetown is a Port of Entry
and Post Town in Washington county.
It was originally laid out under
an act of the Colonial Assembly of
Maryland, passed in May 15th, 1751.
In 1789 the town was incorporated,
and is under the government of a
mayor, recorder, alderman and common
council. This town is situated
on the left bank of the Potomac river,
at the head of tide water and the natural
navigation of that river, and is
separated by Rock creek from Washington,
with which there is a ready
communication at present by means
of two bridges crossing the creek at
two principal streets of Georgetown,
and an additional means of communication
by a pier, of the width of
160 feet, lately constructed across the
mouth of Rock creek.

The town is remarkably salubrious,
and it has at all times escaped those
summer epidemics that have prevailed
some years in the adjacent country.
It is handsomely situated on a
succession of hills, rising gradually
from the river and creek, to which
all its streets incline. So that every
considerable rain thoroughly cleanses
them of all impurity. For some
years after the late war, a very active
business was transacted in the town,
and the improvements during this
time were very numerous and ornamental.
Subsequently, and until within
the last two or three years, its trade
has declined, and improvement been
in a great measure suspended; within
this period, however, there has
been a very considerable progressive
amendment in trade, and numerous
valuable buildings, and other improvements
are now in progress, or have
been recently completed. Its principal
export trade consists of tobacco,
flour, leather, soap, candles, beer, &c.

The annual inspection of tobacco,
has recently amounted to 5,000 hogsheads;
the inspection of flour to more
than 80,000 barrels. There is a considerable
foreign trade with Europe,
South America and the West Indies.

Internal Improvements.
The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal
passes through the heart of the town,
at the level of thirty-seven feet above
the river, and is let into an extensive
basin, formed from Rock creek by
four detached locks. Being the highest
seaport on the Potomac, and the
first reached by the canal in its descent,
its situation is peculiarly favorable
for enjoying the trade which is
wafted on that great high way, and
which establishes a ready communication
from a rich back country, to
the basin at Rock creek.

"The Locks are almost all of 8 feet
lift—are built of cut stone, and laid
in the best hydraulic cement.

"The canal from the head of Little
Falls, 5 miles above Georgetown,
receives water from the Potomac river;
and the river being at that point,
raised by a dam across it, of 4 feet in
height above the surface. This level
of water is brought down to Congress
street in the heart of Georgetown,
and is there 37 feet above low-water
of the Potomac; on the east side of
Congress street there is a Lock, and
at the tail of the Lock on Jefferson
street, a bridge; below Jefferson street
a second Lock and bridge, to pass
Washington street; below Washington
street, a third Lock and bridge at
the foot of it, to pass Green, street;


492

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and below Green street a fourth Lock,
to let down into the basin of Rock
creek.

"The plan of the Basin at Rock
creek is one of the most important of
the details of the whole project, and
nature seems to have placed Rock
creek at a point calculated by this improvement
to be invaluable.

"By the project of forming a mole
or dam across the mouth of Rock
creek, the outer part of which is
along the side of the channel of the
Potomac, where there is from 9 to 12
feet water at low tide. This mole is
1200 feet long, and 160 feet wide,
made of stone on both sides, and filled
between with earth taken from the
Canal, as it passes through Georgetown.

"This mole is intended to raise the
water of Rock creek 3 feet above
common high tide in the Potomac,
and retain it uniformly at this height.
About the middle of the mole there
is a Lock to let down boats into the
river, and this Lock has a lift of only
3 feet at high tide, and 6 feet at low
tide. This Lock with the form previously
named, brings the boats into
the Potomac river.

"By the side of the Lock which
lets into the Potomac, there is a waste
weir 200 feet long, over which the
surplus water of Rock creek passes.

"This mole or dam flows the water
of Rock creek back about three quarters
of a mile, and makes a beautiful
basin from 100 to 250 feet wide, which
has a depth of 6 feet water in nearly
the whole distance, and gives on the
Washington and Georgetown sides of
Rock creek, the greatest possible advantages
for wharves and ware-houses,
which can be imagined. It appears
that nature never formed a more convenient
and useful spot, to end a great
and important work of this kind, than
Rock creek, with these improvements
upon it. And we do not see any place
where a useful and capacious basin
could have been formed, which would
have accommodated the trade with so
great facility and economy, any where
in the neighborhoods of Georgetown
or Washington.

"The route of the Capal passes
very direct (almost straight) through
Georgetown; and the cutting is generally
only what is wanted. It is true
that between Potomac street and High
street, there is a short space of 300
feet, where it was found necessary to
cut 30 feet, in one place 32 feet. All
this earth is deposited to form the
mole or pier; this is the deepest cutting
or excavation on any part of the
Canal.

"After leaving the streets in Georgetown,
the Canal runs along the steep
bank of the Potomac for a mile and a
half, the greater part very steep, formed
of rock, which required blasting
with powder; above this last distance
the country assumes a little more
gentle declivity and better shape for
a Canal, and it passes along sloping
ground, till it intersects the old Potomac
Canal, and following that to near
the western end, it then leaves it and
rises to a higher level by a Lock of
8 feet lift, and soon after, another of
the same lift, and then it passes on for
one and a half miles, and then a Lock
of 8 feet lift; then one and a half
miles and then another Lock; then
half a mile, and then commences a
succession of 6 Locks, at intervals or
spaces of 100 yards between each;
then commences a long level of more
than 4 miles without a Lock. This
brings you to the Great Falls, where
are 6 Locks more, at intervals or spaces
of 100 to 200 yards between. We
then reach the head of the Great
Falls, and have ascended 20 Locks,
or 160 feet from Rock creek. This
part of the Canal about the Great
Falls presents features in the formation
of the country, which are very
striking and bold; and nature has
done a good deal by forming a ravine
of nearly a mile in length, with huge
ledges of large blocks of granite or


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gneiss, forming its sides, and where the
water will be from 10 to 30 feet deep, &
100 to 200 feet wide. Along this we
pass, and a towing path is formed by
levelling some, and raising other
parts so as to make the path regular
on the side of it; at another part of
the Canal there are vertical walls to
sustain the Canal 50 feet high among
the rocks.

"To those who have but a limited
knowledge of the duties of a Civil Engineer,
it has been objected that the
plan of cutting so deep through
Georgetown was wrong. It is however,
believed, that the plan presents
many advantages. 1st. It enables the
Canal to pass through Georgetown
with less inconvenience to private property
than any other route, and a great
deal cheaper. 2d. It furnishes an
easy pass way by bridges over the
Canal, nearly or quite level with the
streets, thereby not incommoding the
buildings along the streets, nor making
the ascent of the streets (which
are now considerable) any steeper.
3d. It furnished the earth to make a
mole or pier of great width, and capable
of receiving warehouses in the
centre of it, where boats can discharge
at one end of the warehouse, and
ships take in at the other. This furnishes
a plan for transhipment of property
with the least possible expense.
4th. By making this basin at Rock
creek, it presents shores where boats
can lay in safety for one and a half
miles on both its sides. It also finds
a place in its upper part, where boats
not in immediate use, can lay without
paying much wharfage or expense,
and be perfectly safe."

Manufacturing Facilities,
Public Institutions,
&c.—The
vicinity of the town naturally offers
peculiar advantages for extensive
manufactories. The river falling
near 40 feet in 4 miles. The Chesapeake
and Ohio Canal extending
over this space at an elevation of 37
feet above tide water, and of a width
of 70 to 80 feet, with a depth of 7 ft.
may supply very numerous manufacturing
establishments with water,
without obstruction to the navigation.
The public institutions and buildings
consist of the Georgetown College;
a society of Nuns incorporated
by Congress, under the name of
"The Sisters of the Visitation," who
conduct a very flourishing female
academy. There are 8 houses of
public worship, 2 Roman Catholic,
2 Episcopalian, 1 Presbyterian, 2
Methodist and 1 African,—also 2
banks incorporated by Congress, the
Farmers' and Mechanics' Bank of
Georgetown, and Union Bank, with
a joint capital of $9,64,130. It
contains also a considerable number
of dry good and grocery stores, 1 extensive
brewery with several manufactories,
and every mechanical pursuit
necessary to a town of its magnitude,
and immediately above the town
is an extensive cannon foundry.

The academy under the direction
of "The Sisters of Visitation," has
been established 33 years, and averages
generally from 70 to 80 young
ladies as boarders, and from 30 to 40
young ladies as day scholars. Within
the nunnery enclosure, but detached
from the academy and approached
from a different street, there are upward
of 400 young girls taught gratuitously,
about 200 attending daily.

At the Lancaster School, there are
annually taught about 100 boys, and
70 girls. There are 3 other academies
for young ladies, in which are
taught all the branches of polite and
fashionable education, and 3 academies
for young men, with several
other respectable schools all conducted
by competent teachers.


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Assessed valuation of real and personal property.

     
Real,  $2,400,000 
Personal,  280,311 
Total,  $2,680,311 

Population at different periods.

       
Whites,  Free Colored,  Slaves,  Total. 
In 1810,  3,235,  551,  1,162,  4,948 
In 1820,  4,940,  894,  1,526,  7,360 
In 1830,  6,057,  1,209,  1,175,  8,441 

Annalostan Island.—Opposite
to Georgetown is Mason's Island properly
called Annalostan Island.
It is the seat of Gen. John Mason.
It has a highly cultivated surface of
about 70 acres,—the natural soil,
light and sandy. A causway on the
Virginia side, and a horse boat ferry
from Georgetown, facilitates communication
with this beautiful spot from
the shores. The highest ground
above the level of the river is elevated
about 50 feet, and upon this eminence
the dwelling is situated. The usual
tides rise about 3 feet. In digging
for water, it is procured at the depth
of 20 or 30 feet from the surface. Agatized
wood has been discovered in
well digging. The house which is
approached through a fine avenue of
trees, is extensive, with a number of
convenient buildings attached from it
the public buildings in Washington
are seen to advantage. On the N.
side of the Island an alluvial meadow
is rapidly forming. The S. side
is substantially walled, and dotted
with neat white cottages for servants
buildings.

Warden justly remarks, that "the
view from this spot is delightful. It
embraces the picturesque banks of the
Potomac a portion of the city, and a
noble expanse of water. Numerous
vessels ply backwards and forwards
to animate the scene.

Georgetown College.—This
College which is pleasantly situated
on the northern bank of the Potomac,
commands a full view of Georgetown,
Washington, the Potomac, and a great
part of the District. Its situation is
peculiarly healthy. It is under the
direction of the incorporated Catholic
clergy of Maryland, and is the oldest
Catholic seminary in the United
States: it was first incorporated in
1799; and in 1815, it received an extension
of its privileges from Congress,
and was authorized to confer
degrees. The college library contains
12,000 volumes. The academic
or college year commences on the
15th of September, and ends on the
31st of July; and commencement is
near the last of July. The number of
students is usually about 140 or 150;
a considerable part of them being day
scholars. The number of graduates
is not great. The number graduated
at the commencement of July 25, 1833
was 7.—There are 19 professors and
tutors, of whom 3 are professors of
theology.

The course of ordinary studies is
completed in 7 years, at the end of
which, if the student has made sufficient
progress, he may receive the degree
of Bachelor of Arts. When a
scholar presents himself to be received
into the College, he is examined
by the prefect of studies, and placed
in that class, for which his prior acquirements
may have fitted him, he
then passes on in regular succession
to the final class of Logic and Moral


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Philosophy. If he remain longer,
and study the higher branches of
Mathematics and Natural Philosophy,
he may take the degree of Master
of Arts.

Rules, Regulations and Course
of Instruction.
—1st. In the lowest
school or class of Rudiments, the
scholars study the English and
French Grammars, Caligraphy, Arithmetic,
&c.—and at the conclusion
of this year (for each class, unless
some student by their particular application
and talents, should merit
promotion, occupies one year) they
are supposed to be able to read and
write English correctly.

2d. During the next year, (third
class of Humanities,) the scholars
continue to study the English and
French Grammars, and begin to compose
in those languages—Arithmetic
is continued and towards the end of
the year they commence the Latin
Grammar.

3d. In the second class of Humanities,
they continue English and
French composition, (these studies are
continued till the end of Rhetoric.)
and Arithmetic: they begin Latin exercises
and read some easy Latin authors—as
Nepos, Cæsar, &c. During
this year a course of Geography is
studied, and Greek is begun.

4th. In the first class of Humanities,
they read portions of Sallust, Cicero's
minor works, and some of
Ovid's Elegies, Prosody—and commence
History. They study portions
of the Greek Scripture, Xenophon,
and Lucian's dialogues. Algebra is
begun.

5th. In Poetry, Cicero's minor
works, Virgil, Horace, Livy and Homer,
are read. History is continued
and a treatise of Mythology learned
Mathematics continued.

6th. In Rethoric—The scholars
study Rhetoric, Cicero's Orations,
Homer, Virgil, Horace, History and
Mathematics.

7th. This year a course of Logic
and Moral Philosophy is studied—
Mathematics continued.

During the whole course, great attention
is paid to Composition, particularly
English. There will always
be a class of Book-keeping for the
convenience of those who wish to
learn it. The Italian, Spanish and
German languages will be also taught
if required. Music, Drawing, Dancing,
&c. will form additional charges.

The College possesses a select Library
of about 12,000 volumes, the
use of which is granted to the senior
students without any additional
charge.

There are two examinations in the
year. The minor one in February
or March, and the other immediately
before the commencement, which will
always be a day of public exercises,
towards the end of July.

No student is admitted, who cannot
read and has not a good moral character.

As the members of the College profess
the Catholic Religion, the exercises
of Religious worship are Catholic,
but members of other Religious
denominations are received, of whom
it is only required, that they respectfully
assist at the public duties of religion
with their companions. Were
not this enforced, no proper order,
such as should be found in large literary
institutions, could exist in the
College.

No student, will be permitted to
leave the College on visits of any
length oftener than once a year, viz:
at the great vacation. If his parents
live in the District, he will be allowed
to visit them once a month, but not
oftener—and he must then always return
to the College before night.

Terms.—Every student shall pay
on entering the College, ten dollars.
He shall bring a mattrass, a pillow,
two pillow cases, two pair of sheets,
four blankets and a counterpane, or
pay $6 per annum for the use of bed


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and bedding. He must also bring
with him one suit of clothes, as a uniform—which
is in winter, a blue cloth
coat and pantaloons with a black velvet
waistcoat; in summer, white pantaloons
with a black silk waistcoat
are used.

He must likewise bring with him
two suits for daily wear, for which
no particular color is prescribed; six
shirts, six pair of stockings, six pocket
handkerchiefs, three pair of shoes,
a hat and a cloak or great coat, also
a silver spoon. These articles if not
brought by the student will be furnished
by the College and included in the
first bill.

The pension for board, washing,
mending and mending materials—
use of books, (philosophical and mathematical
excepted,) pens, ink and
writing paper, slates and pencils is
$150. Medical aid and medicine,
unless parents choose to run the risk
of a Doctor's bill in case of sickness,
$3 per annum. All chargest must
be paid half yearly in advance.

For the convenience of parents,
particularly those at a distance, the
College will undertake to supply the
students with clothing. The annual
expense cannot be specified, as it depends
upon the age and wearing of
the student all that can be said, is
the strictest economy and simplicity
will be observed. If parents wish
the College to supply their children
with clothes, a deposit is required by
the College equivalent to the probable
expense of clothing for six months.

With regard to pocket money, it is
desired that all the students should
be placed on an equality, and that it
should not exceed 12½ cents per
week; and whatever is allowed must
be deposited in the hands of the directors
of the College. Half-boarders
are received on the usual terms,
viz. $5 entrance, and $65 for board
per annum.

Day scholars, $5 for fuel and servants,
as no charge is made for tuition.

Convent.—The Convent of the
Sisters of Visitation, is a plain, substantial,
but gloomy-looking, monastic
institution, which must recall,
amidst its solitudes, to the recollection
of the contemplative mind, the touching
story of Abelard and Eloisa.—
The solemnity of the scene is in strict
keeping with the object of the edifice.

The visiter is admitted into the
speaking room, as it is called, which
is separated from the sanctum sanctorum,
by substantial wooden bars, resembling
the grates of a prison. The
Sisters are clad in sable garments,
with deep black hoods, and white
veils descending to the waist. The
Nuns are from various States of the
Union, and generally number about
50. The process of initiation is the
same as the other nunneries, the novitiate
being two years, the first for
the white veil, and the second for the
black, after which, there can be no
retreat.

WASHINGTON CITY.

Washington City, the seat of
the General Government of the U.
S. of America, and capital of the District
of Columbia, is situated on the
left or Maryland side of the Potomac,
near the head of tide water, and by the
river and Chesapeake bay, 290 ms.
from the Atlantic. It is 38 ms. S.
W. from Baltimore, 136 from Philadelphia,
225 from New York, 432
from Boston, 595 from Augusta,
Maine, 546 from Detroit, Michigan,
1,068 from Little Rock, Arkansas,
856 from St. Louis, 1,203 from New
Orleans, 662 from Savannah, Georgia,
and 544 from Charleston, S. C. The
capitol stands in lat. 38° 52′ 45″; long.
W. from the observatory at Greenwich
76° 5 30″, and is located at
the junction of the rivers Potomac


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and Eastern branch, extending nearly
4 ms. up each, and including a tract
of territory, exceeded in point of convenience,
salubrity and beauty by
none in America. For although the
land in general appears level, yet by
gentle and gradual swellings, a variety
of elegant prospects are produced,
and sufficient descent formed for conveying
off the water occasioned by
rain. Within the limits of the city
are a great number of excellent
springs,—water of the best quality
may readily be had, and the never
failing streams that run through that
territory, are also collected for the use
of the city. The waters of Reedy
branch and of Tiber creek, may be
conveyed to the President's house.
The source of Tiber creek is elevated
236 ft. above the level of its tide water.
The perpendicular height of the
ground on which the Capitol stands
is 78 ft. above the level of the tide in
Tiber creek,—the waters of Tiber
creek may therefore be conveyed to
the Capitol, and after watering that
part of the city may be destined to
other useful purposes. The Eastern
branch is one of the safest and most
commodious harbors in America, and
is sufficiently deep for the largest
Ships, for about 4 ms. above its mouth,
while the channel lies close along the
hank adjoining the city, and affords a
large and convenient harbor. The
Potomac although only navigable for
small craft for a considerable distance
from its banks, next to the city, (excepting
about half a mile above the
junction of the river,) will, nevertheless
afford a capacious summer harbor,
as an immense number of Ships
may ride in the great channel opposite
and below the city. The situation
of this metropolis, is upon the
great line of communication, about
equi-distant from the northern and
southern extremities of the Union,
and nearly so from the Atlantic and
Pittsburg; upon the best navigation,
and in the midst of a commercial territory,
probably the richest, and commanding
the most extensive internal
resources of any in America, to recommend
it as an eligible place for
the permanent seat of the General
Government; and it has grown up
with an extraordinary degree of rapidity.
But its growth is rather to
be attributed to the vast amount expended
in it by the Federal Government,
and the numerous strangers
brought thither, than to its commercial
advantages, great as they are.—
The city of Baltimore being so near
it, and having such immense advantages
in the greater capital enterprise
and skill of her merchants, in contiguity
to the ocean, and greater facility
of approach in her greater age
and established commercial character
and intercourse,—and lastly in being
a city of a state with a much more extended
territory all the advantages, of
which that state naturally desires to
pour into her lap,—and that identical
territory too, being the very source
from which the materials of commerce
would have to be drawn by
Washington,—the latter can never
hope to rival the former in her commercial
prosperity.

The city of Washington has also to
compete with the town of Georgetown,
Alexandria and Fredericksburg,
much of the commerce of which
would flow to her if those towns did
not exist.

The fact, however, that Washington
is not likely ever to be an overgrown
commercial city, is not at all
to be regretted by the statesman. The
legislation of the Union would not be
at all benefitted by the presence of a
noisy, disorderly mob,—which is almost
sure to exist in a large commercial
city.

The plan of this city appears to
contain some important improvements
upon that of the best planned cities in
the world, combining in a remarkable
degree, convenience, regularity,
elegance of prospect, and a free circu-


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lation of air. The position for the
different public edifices, and for the
several squares, and areas of different
shapes, as they are laid down,
were first fixed on the most advantageous
ground commanding the most
extensive prospect, and from their situation
susceptible of such improvement
as either use or ornament might
at any time require. The soil is
generally sterile, mixed with pebbles
and sand, the length of the city from
S. E. to N. W. is 4¼ ms.; mean
width 2½, containing a fraction less
than 8¼ sq. ms. The city was laid
out under the supervision of General
Washington
(then President
of the United States) in 1791. The
principal streets are called avenues,
and named after the different states of
the Union. These diverge from the
Capital and President's house, and a
direct line of communication between
these two edifices is formed by Pennsylvania
avenue, the principal and
finest street of the city. The avenues
are crossed by streets running N.
and S. alphabetically arranged, and
others running E. and W. numerically
arranged. Many of these are
shaded, and all of them very broad,—
the former being from 120 to 160 feet
in width, and the latter from 70 to
110.

The City is divided into six wards,
the following table gives a correct
statement of the census, assessments,
and valuations of each, up to December
31, 1830. Agreeably to the last
census.

               
WARDS.  CENSUS.  BUILDINGS.  LOTS.  PERSONAL.  TOTAL.  TAX-56 cts.
ON $100. 
First  3,678  657,833  760,494  153,150  1,571,477  8,800 27 
Second  4,049  724,705  752,538  139,890  1,617,133  9,055 94 
Third  5,751  1,105,855  1,132,336  200,420  2,438,611  13,656 22 
Fourth  1,861  253,100  290,603  45,120  588,823  3,297 40 
Fifth  1,357  174,410  334,986  24,475  533,871  2,989 67 
Sixth  2,131  209,139  217,075  37,225  463,435  2,595 23 
Total,  18,827  3,125,038  3,488,032  600,280  7,213,350  40,394 7 

The Number of buildings erected
in the City in 1830 wa, 178,—86 of
which were of brick and 92 of wood.
The total number of buildings in 1831
was, 3,560,—of these there were public
65—dwellings, 3,233, and 262
shops and warehouses.

In the stores, and particularly on
the Pennsylvania avenue, there is a
great variety, well supplied, containing
every description of dry goods,
groceries, hardware, china, glass,
drugs, millinery, confectionery, fruit,
clothing, hats, shoes, boots, books, stationery,
leather, chairs, plate, jewellery,
in short, every article of necessity
or ornament.

The Mechanic Arts.—The printing
business, by the agency of steam
and hand labor, alone employs during
the winter season about 300 hands.
There are four daily papers extensively
circulated; also 4 weekly, circulated
extensively. Book-binding,
engraving, cabinet making, tobacco,
manufacturing, hatting, saddlery, shoe
and boot making, tailoring, coach
making, blacksmith's work, gun
smiths, &c. are extensively carried
on and employ a number of workmen.
Not less than 8 or 9 millions
of bricks are made annually, employing
nearly 200 hands in the warm
weather. Bricklayers, carpenters,
painters, glaziers, and in short, every
mechanic connected with the erection
of buildings, are extensively engaged
in the summer season.

The population of Washington has
increased rapidly, and from its being


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the seat of the government of the
county and its salubrious and healthy
location, it must continue to augment
in number.

In 1800 its population was 3,210;
in 1803, 4,352; in 1807, 5,652; in
1810, 8,208; in 1817, 11,299; in
1820, 13,246; and in 1830, 18,827,
consisting of.

       
White Persons.  Free Colored.  Slaves.  Total. 
Males,  6,581  1,342  1,010  8,933 
Females,  6,798  1,787  1,309  9,894 
Total,  13,379  3,129  2,319  18,827 

The public buildings in Washington
are numerous and many of
them elegant. Among these the first
in rank is the Capitol,—it stands on
a most beautiful eminence, commanding
a complete view of every part of
the City, and a considerable part of
the country around, with the Potomac,
as far as Alexandria.—It is of
the Corinthian order, and the most
magnificent edifice in the U. States.
It is situated near the western extremity
of the Capitol square; it is built of
free stone, and composed of a central
edifice and two wings, and is of the
following dimensions, viz:

                         
Fe.  Inches. 
Length of front,  350 
Depth of wings,  121 
Eastern projection,  65 
Western projection,  85 
Height of wings to top of balustrade,  70 
Central Dome,  120 
Length of Representatives' Hall,  96 
Height of Representatives' Hall,  60 
Length of Senate Chamber,  74 
Height of Senate Chamber,  42 
Height of Rotunda,  96 
Diameter of Rotunda,  96 

The Representatives' Hall is
in the second story of the south wings
and is semicircular in form. The
dome and galleries of the Hall, are
supported by pillars of variegated
marble from the banks of the Potomac.
This apartment is truly magnificent.
In front of the Speaker's
chair, and over the entrance into the
Chamber, stands an allegorical figure,
—formed of Italian marble, representing
History in the act of recording
the proceedings of the nation.
She stands on a winged car, which
seems to roll over a section of the
tetrestrial globe, exhibiting in basso
relievo the signs of the zodiac. The
wheel of the car is intended as the
face of a clock, which is to be placed
behind, and the front contains in basso
relieve a figure of Fame, and a
profile bust of Washington. Above
the Speaker's chair, is a colossal figure
of Liberty, in plaster, pointing
to the Hall below, and supported on
the right by an American Eagle—
and on the left by the Roman fasces,
which are partially enveloped in the
folds of a serpent. Immediately under
this figure, on the frize is carved
in alto relievo another Eagle in the
attitude of flying.

The Senate Chamber in the
north wing is of the same semi-circular


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Page 500
form, a screen of Ionic columns,
with capitols after those of the temple
of Minerva Polias, supports a gallery
to the east, and forms a lobby below,—and
a new gallery of iron pillars
and railings, of a light and elegant
structure, projects from the curved
walls,—the dome ceiling is enriched
with square caissons of stucco.
The intervals between the marble pilasters
in the wall are covered with
straw-colored drapery. Columns of
Potomac marble, support the eastern
gallery.

The Rotunda occupies the centre.
This is the principal entrance
from the east Portico and west Stair,
and leads to the legislative halls and
library, which contains 16,000 volumes.
This room is divided in its
circuit into pannels, by lofty Grecian
pilasters, which support a bold enlablature,
ornamented with a wreath
of olive.—A hemispherical dome rises
above, filled with large plan caissons,
like those of the Pantheon at
Rome. The pannels of the circular
walls are appropriated to paintings
and basso relievos of historical subjects.
This noble edifice was not
quite completed when the British army
under Gen. Ross, (who was afterwards
slain in battle near Baltimore)
in August, 1814, made a sudden
incursion, after defeating the
American troops at Bladensburg,
gained possession of the City, setting
fire to the Capitol, President's house,
public offices, &c. reducing the whole
to ashes, together with the valuable
library of Congress. The foundation
of the north wing was laid in the
presence of Gen. Washington on the
18th of Sept. 1923, and finished in
1800,—cost $480,262 57.—South
wing commenced in 1803, and finished
in 1808,—cost $308,808 41,—and
the centre, on the 24th of May, 1818,
being the anniversary of its destruction
by the British, and finished in
1827—cost $957,647 35. The building
covers an acre and a half, or 1820
square feet, exclusive of its enclosure
for fuel; and an elegant area and glacis
on the west front.

The square contains 22½ acres, embracing
a circumference of three-fourths
of a mile, and 185 feet, enclosed
by a substantial iron railing
with very neat gate-ways. Gravel
walks, and beautiful borders of shrubbery
and flowers, forming a delightful
promenade for the use of the citizens.
Opposite to the west front is
the botanic garden ground, a situation
well adapted for the purpose,
which it is supposed will be placed
under the care of the Columbian Institute.
"At the west front of the
Capitol is placed the beautiful marble
monument
(which lately stood in the
navy yard) erected by the American
officers, to the memory of their brethren
who fell before Tripoli in the
year
1804. It is a small doric column,
with emblematical embellishments,
and crowned with an eagle in
the act of flying. Its base is sculptured
in basso relievos, representing
Tripoli,—its fortress,—the Mediterranean
and our fleet in the foreground
and on each angle stands an
appropriate marble figure. The one
represents Columbia directing the attention
of her children to History,
who is recording the daring and intrepid
action of the American heroes,
—the third represents Fame with a
wreath of laurel in one hand and a
pen in the other: and the fourth, Mercury,
or the God of commerce, with
his cornucopia and caduceus.

The President's House is two
stories high with a lofty basement, a
is 180 feet long and 85 wide. To
each end there is attached the necessary
offices, stables, coal and ice houses,
with a colonnade front rising to a
level with the main floor of the house
the roofs being flat these offices afford
a terrace suitable for a promenade. It
is built of white free stone.—The
building is 170 feet in front and 86
deep, and is crowned with a balus


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trade; the roof is covered with copper,
and the entrance from the north
is through a lofty portico, which is
projected from the front, so as to leave
room for a carriage to pass under between
the platform and outer columns.

The house stands on an elevation
of 44 feet above the usual high water
of the river Potomac, in the centre of
a large reservation of ground of 20
acres. The front entrance faces north,
poan open square; and the garden
front to the south, possessing a delightful
water prospect, together with
a commanding view of the Capitol,
and the most important parts of the
City. The Virginia and Maryland
shores of the river, and Potomac
bridge, and of the opposite view to
the south, is extremely beautiful and
picturesque. It is an elegant building
and stands about one and a half
miles from the Capitol.

The entrance is subdivided into
halls, sets of apartments for the accommodation
of a large family, and
for the reception and entertainment of
numerous guests. Liberal provisions
have been made by Congress from
time to time for furnishing the building
in a style appropriate to its elegance
and uses to which it is dedicated.

There are on the same open area
on which the President's house is located,
four other buildings, quadrangular
in shape, two stories high, built
of brick and stuccoed. Of these the
two on the east are the Departments
of State and the Treasury
[50]
—those
on the west, the Departments of War
and the Navy.
The General Post
Office
is on Pennsylvania Avenue,
and the Patent Office is kept in the
same building.

[51]
The City Hall is not yet completed,
but the plan is that of a noble
structure. Its front is 200 feet,—the
elevation of the north front 72 feet,—
its Rotunda is 66 feet in diameter,—
and Courtroom 70 by 40.

There is a Masonic Hall which is
a handsome edifice, lately erected
near the City Hall.

There are also four well supplied
market-houses,—an infirmary,—a female
orphan asylum,—a jail,—a theatre,—5
extensive hotels,—a foundry,
—several breweries,—a museum and
City Library.

There is a Penitentiary provided
for the use of the District, which is
under the following rules and regulations.

Of the reception and discharge of
convicts.

"1st. On the arrival of a convict,
immediate notice shall be given to the
Physician, who shall examine the
state of his health. He shall then be
stripped of his clothes, and clothed in
the uniform of the Prison, as hereafter
provided; being first bathed and
cleaned, and having his hair cut close,
as prescribed by law.

2d. He shall then be examined by
the Warden and Clerk, in the presence
of as many of the keepers as
can conveniently attend, that they may
become acquainted with his person
and countenance, and his name, height,
apparent age, alledged place of nativity,
complexion, color of hair and
eyes, and length of feet, to be accurately
measured, and all visible scars
or marks, the Court convicted in, and
crime found guilty of, and length of
sentence, shall be entered in a book
provided for that purpose, with such
other general description, as may tend
to his or her future identification;
and if the convict can write, his or
her signature shall be written under
the said description of the person.

3d. All the effects on the person
of the convict, as well as his clothes,
shall be taken from him, and preserved
and taken care of, if worth it, by
the Warden, to be restored to him on
his discharge.


502

Page 502

4th. The convict shall be instructed
carefully by the officers, in the rules
and regulations of the Prison, by
which he is to be governed; and if in
health, shall there be put to work, at
such trade as he knows, if practicable;
if not, or he has no trade, the
Warden shall select such trade or employment
as seems best suited to his
strength and capacity.

5th. When a convict shall be discharged,
by the expiration of the term
for which he was sentenced, or by
pardon, he shall take off the Prison
uniform, and have the clothes brought
by him to the Prison, restored to him;
or, if they are unfit, a new, cheap,
and suitable laborer's dress, with the
other property or effects, if any, taken
from him on his commitment.

6th. When a prisoner is discharged,
it shall be the duty of the Warden,
if practicable, to learn from him
his former history, the means of moral
and religious instruction enjoyed
by him, the early temptations to crime,
to which he was exposed, or by which
he was assailed, his habits, predominant
passions, and prevailing vices,
and in what part of the country he
intends to fix his future residence; all
of which shall be entered by the
Clerk, in a book to be kept for that
purpose, together with his name, age,
and time of discharge.

7th. If the Inspectors and Warden
have been satisfied with the industry,
good order, and morality of his conduct,
they shall give him a certificate
to that effect.

Rations and clothing.

1st. The ration for each man per
day, shall be.

12 oz. of pork or 16 oz. of beef;

10 oz. of wheat flour, not bolted;

12 oz. of Indian meal;

½ gill of Molasses;

and 2 quarts of rye, 4 quarts of salt,
4 quarts of vinegar, 1½ oz. of pepper;
and 2½ bushels of potatoes to each 100
rations. The rations of the women
and boys, shall be as nearly in proportion,
as possible, taking into consideration
age, health, &c.

2d. Salt pork and salt beef shall be
furnished alternately, each three days;
and fresh beef once in each week, or
oftener, if the Warden shall see fit
and proper: all the articles to be of
good quality, and sound.

3d. The clothing for each convict
shall be a roundabout, or over jacket,
a vest and pantaloons, made of wool,
for the winter, and cotton or linen,
for the summer, with stripes running
round the body and limbs, a cap of
the same cloth, leather shoes, and
woollen socks, and shirts of coarse
cotton or linen. Each convict shall
have a mattrass, two blankets made
of coarse woollen yarn, not less than
1½ yards wide, and 2½ yards long, one
coarse sheet, of the same size. They
shall not be permitted to lie down, or
to rise up from their beds, until notice
given by the bell, for that purpose;
nor shall they be permitted to
sleep in their clothes.

4th. The hour for breakfast, from
the 20th March, to the 20th of September,
shall be 7 o'clock, A. M.;
and, from the 20th September, to the
20th March, 8 o'clock. The hour
for dinner shall be 1 o'clock, P. M.
The convicts shall be allowed forty-five
minutes at breakfast, and one
hour at dinner; at the expiration of
which time, they shall be turned out
of their cells, and again put to labor.

Duties of covvicts.

1st. Every convict shall be industrious,
in the performance of any duty
assigned to him, he shall labor diligently,
and in silence, and obey implicitly,
the orders of the officers of
the institution.

2. No convict shall secrete, or hide,
or carry about his person, any instrument
or thing, with intent to make his
escape, or in any other manner endeavor
to make his escape.

3d. No convict shall dispute, quarrel
with, or in any manner misbehave
to another convict, nor converse with


503

Page 503
any other prisoner, without the leave,
or by the order of an officer; nor absent
himself from his work, nor look
at, or speak to visitors, nor go into
the prison yard, without orders, nor
go into the lodging rooms, after being
turned out in the morning, till ordered,
nor leave the hospital, when
unwell, and sent there.

4th. No convict shall drink any
spirituous, vinous, or fermented liquors,
unless prescribed by the physician,
when sick in the hospital, nor
game in any form, or by any device
whatsoever, nor chew or use tobacco.

5th. No convict shall write or receive
a letter, to, or from any person
whatever, nor have intercourse with
persons without the prison, by any
other means.

6th. No convict shall burn, or in
any other manner waste, destroy, or
injure, any raw materials, or manufactured
articles, or other public property,
nor deface or injure the prison,
or any of the buildings or fixtures
connected with it.

7th. No convict shall laugh, dance,
whistle, sing, run, jump, or do any
thing which will tend to alarm or disturb
the prison.

8th. Convicts shall always conduct
themselves towards the officers of the
institution, with deference and respect:
and cleanliness in their persons,
dress, and bedding, is required.

9th. When the convicts go to meals,
or to, or from the shops, they shall
proceed in regular order, in silence,
marching in the lock step, accompanied
by their proper officers. They
shall eat their meals, till a common
hall is provided, in their respective
cells.

Punishments.

1st. For the violation of any of the
foregoing rules and regulations, the
offenders shall be punished by the
Warden, with confinement, in a solitary
cell, on a diet of bread and water,
not exceeding twenty days, for
each offence; but subject, however, to
be mitigated or suspended by the visiting
inspector, at his next weekly
visitation; or by the Board of Inspectors,
at their monthly meeting; and
to whom such cases of punishment
shall be regularly reported, by the
Warden, with the nature, particulars,
and aggravation of the offences."

The Columbian College,
founded by the Baptists, and incorporated
by Congress in 1821, went into
operation in 1822. It has an elevated
and pleasant situation to the north of
the city, one mile from the President's
house, and two and a half miles from
the Capitol. Its buildings consist of
a College edifice of 4 stories, 117 feet
by 46, having 48 rooms for students,
a chapel, &c.; another edifice of the
same dimensions is erected, and connected
with the first by a building of
one story, 80 feet by 40, designed for
a refrectory; a philosophical hall and
2 houses for professors. The College
has a good philosophical apparatus
and library of 4000 volumes. The
only public aid which it has received
was a grant from Congress of $25,000.

The following is the course of study.

Studies and text-books of the College
classes.

Freshman Class.—Græca Majora,
vol. I. begun; Livy, first 5 books;
Adams' Roman Antiquities; Cambridge
Course of Mathematics, comprising,
1. Lacroix's Arithmetic, 2.
Euler's Algebra, 3. Legendre's Geometry,
begun; Worcester's Geography,
Murray's Grammar; Walker's
Rhetorical Grammar; writing translations
of select portions of the Latin
and Greek Classics, and declamations
weekly; revision of some of the studies
required for admission.

Sophomore Class.—Grœca Majora,
vol. 1. finished; Irving on Composition;
Hedge's Logic; Legendre's
Geometry, finished; 4. Lacroix's Algebra;
5. Analytic Geometry, comprising
Plane and Spherical Trigonometry,
and the Application of Algebra


504

Page 504
to Geometry, particularly to
Conic Sections, begun, S. E. Morse's
Geography; Tytler's General History,
Horace, Latina Excerpta; composition
and declamation weekly.

Junior Class.—Græca Majora, vol.
II. begun; Blair's Lectures on Rhetoric;
Paley's Natural Theology;
Analytic Geometry, finished; 6 Topography,
or the Application of Geometry
to Projections, Dialling, Mensuration
of heights and distances;
Navigation, Nautical Astronomy,
Surveying, Levelling, &c. Farrar's
Natural Philosophy, begun; Cicero
de Officiis, de Senectute, and de Amicitia;
Paley's Moral Philosophy;
Natural History; Chemistry, Campbell's
Philosophy of Rhetoric; declamation
and composition.

Senior Class.—Græca Majora, Vol.
II. finished; Cicero de Oratore, select
portions of Homer's Iliad; 7.
Differential and Integral Calculus;
Farrar's Natural Philosophy, finished;
Stewart's Philosophy of the
Mind; Paley's Evidences; Butler's
Analogy; Vattel's Law of Nations;
Constitution of the United States;
Kent's Commentaries, Vol. I. declamation
and composition.

The higher Classes are admitted to
courses of Lectures on Natural Philosophy,
Anatomy and Physiology,
Chemistry, Botany Moral and Intellectual
Philosophy.

The College year is divided into
two sessions, of about five months
each; the first, from the second Wednesday
of January, to the first Wednesday
of June, when the summer
vacation of two months occurs: the
second, from the first Wednesday of
August, to the third Wednesday of
December, when the annual commencement
takes place, and the winter
vacation of one month begins.

On occasions of great interest, the
students are permitted to hear the arguments
in the Supreme Court of the
United States, and the debates in
Congress.

A preparatory school is connected
with the College, in which pupils are
fitted for admission to the Freshman,
or higher classes, studies, reading,
writing, English Grammar, Arithmetic,
and Geography. Adams' Latin
Grammar, Historia Sacra, Cæsar's
Commentaries,—Virgil, Sallust and
Cicero's Select Orations, Valpy's
Greek Grammar, the Gospels, and
Jacobs' Greek Reader. For admission
to the Freshman class, a knowledge
of these studies, or an equivalent,
is required. Geometry, Alegebra
and other higher studies, are also
pursued in this school.

There are also connected with this
establishment a medical department,
which was organized in 1824, and a
large and commodious building has
been erected for the use of the Institution,
on 10th st. about equi-distant
from the Capitol and the President's
house. This building is large and
commodious, consisting of 3 elevated
stories, with a roof peculiarly constructed
for the admission of light into
all the apartments appropriated to
anatomical purposes.

On the ground floor is the Lecture
Room, Laboratory, &c. of the Professor
of Chemistry.

The second story contains the
rooms, public and private, of the Professors
of the Theory and Practice of
Medicine and of Materia Medica, and
of the Institutes of Medicine and Medical
Jurisprudence.

In the third is the Anatomical
Theatre, together with rooms occupied
by the Professors of Anatomy,
Surgery and Obstetrics.

The theatre is designed from the
most approved plans, and is conveniently
connected with the rooms situated
in the superior part of the building,
which are intended for the purpose
of Practical Anatomy. In relation
to this particular department of
the school, care has been taken to
provide space, light and security, together
with every other specific convenience


505

Page 505
that may afford to the student
facility in prosecuting to advantage
this necessary part of his collegiate
studies.

The Professor of Anatomy has furnished
himself with all the Anatomical
preparations which are necessary
to his course, and with a large collection
of valuable drawings, by which
the structure, of those minute parts
which cannot be fully displayed within
the recent or proposed subject, are
exhibited to view on a magnified
scale.

The Professor of Chemistry is in
possession of an extensive apparatus,
by the aid of which, all the important,
experimental illustrations, belonging
to his department, are presented to the
class.

The ticket of each Professor is $15;
and all persons who have attended
two full Courses, at this School, are
entitled to attend succeeding Courses
free of expense.

The requisites for graduation are
similar to those required in the most
respectable institutions in the country.
The candidate must have studied 3
years under the direction of some regular
physician. He must have attended
each Professor two full Courses,
or he shall have attended one full
Course in this School, and one in
some other respectable medical institution.
He must have entered his
name with the Dean as a candidate
for graduation, and delivered to him
an inaugural dissertation on some
medical subject, 30 days before the
close of the session.

The lectures commences on the 1st
Monday in November, and continue
till the last of February. The fee for
the lectures on each branch, is $15 or
90 for the whole Course;—the matriculating
fee $5;—graduating fee
$20.

The "Columbian Institute," for the
promotion of the Arts and Sciences,
was formed at Washington in 1816,
and incorporated by Congress in
1818. It consists of 5 Classes, viz.
Mathematical Science, Physical Science,
Moral and Political Sciences,
General Literature and the fine arts.
The annual meetings are held on the
last Saturday in each year.

There are 3 Banks,—the Bank of
Washington,
—capital $479,120,—The Bank of the Metropolis,—capital
$500,000, and the Patriatic
Bank,
—capital $250,000. There are
19 houses of public worship, 3 Catholic,
4 Episcopalian, 3 Methodist, 4
Baptist, 1 Unitarian and 1 Friends',
also 2 public free schools, and a great
many other well conducted schools,
where the usual branches of education
are taught, as well as the dead Languages
and Mathematics. Schools for
young ladies, are also established in
various parts of the city; and there is
1 orphan asylum, constituted in 1815,
a colonization society (the mother) instituted
in 1817; 6 well organized
fire companies and a Masonic Lodge.
Regular lines of steam-boats ply from
Washington to Alexandria, Baltimore,
Norfolk, &c., and numerous stages run
to other places,—among which are 8
daily coaches to Baltimore. The
territory now Washington was formerly
a part of Prince George Co.
Md. and was ceded to the United
States in 1790. In 1800 it became
the seat of government, and 1802 was
incorporated as a city. In 1812 it
was remodelled, and finally chartered
in 1815. The government is composed
of a Mayor, 12 Aldermen, and
a common Council of 18 members;
these are elected by the citizens, the
latter for 1, and the Mayor and Aldermen
for 2 years.

The Navy Yard in this city was
established and organized by the act
of Congress, approved 27th March,
1804. It contains within its limits
about 28 acres; and is enclosed by
a high brick wall; with an entrance
from the north, through an arched
gateway, on each side of which are
accommodations for the marine officer


506

Page 506
and guard, attached to the Yard. The
buildings for the officers are commodious,—and
appropriate, quarters for
the Commandant, Master Commandant,
Lieutenant, Sailing Master,
Surgeon and Boatswain for store
houses, shops, &c. and a Navy Store,
with a sail loft in the second story;
iron store, with a rigging loft in the
second story; Commandant's, and
other offices; labratory for the preparation
of ordinance fixtures and
stores, in the second story of which is
a beautiful and well arranged armory.
An armorer's shop for repairing
small arms; an iron foundry; a brass
and composition foundry; a chain cable,
and caboose shop; an anchor
shop, smithery and plumber's shop; a
block maker's shop, a saw mill, and
rooms for machinery work, &c. 2 timber
sheds on arched columns, one
with a joiner's shop, and the other
with a mould loft in the second story;
2 ship houses over foundations, and
ways for buildings and launching
ships of any size. All the buildings
are large and of substantial construction,
and afford every convenience for
building and equipping vessels for
sea. There is in the Yard a fresh
water dock for seasoning timber, &c.

For the purposes of the Navy there
are some valuable manufactories established
in the Yard; and for it generally,
are made anchors, chain cables,
cabooses, blocks, ordnance fixtures,
and stores of every kind; brass
and composition castings, &c. To
facilitate the operations in the manufacture
of these articles, much laborsaving
machinery has been erected;
the principal of which is a steam engine,
computed of 14 horse power, by
which there is kept in continual motion
489 feet of shafts, with their ordinary
wheels, drums, &c. to the
weight of 40 tons, 8 cwt., 1 qr. lbs.

By power derived from the operation
of the above shafts, a requisite
power and motion is conveyed to two
saw gates, each capable of receiving
and working any number of saws
sufficient for converting a log to any
dimensions by one passage through
the gate. Two hammers for forging
anchors, &c. 2 large hydraulic bellows,
2 circular saws, 1 turning and
boring lathe, which when required,
can be converted into a machine for
boring steam engine cylinders; 9
turning lathes, 5 grind stones, 4 drill
lathes for boring sheaves, &c. with
other machinery, required to facilitate
the operations of the several departments
in the adjoining buildings.

There is also, situated in the S. E.
corner of the Yard, a machine for
proving rope and chain cables; the
mechanical force of which is so powerful,
that two men can part a cable
suitable for a ship of the largest size.
Considerable as a strain must be, sufficient
to part a 24 inch cable, (or a
strain of 100 tons,) such is the accuracy
of the operation of the index, that
two ounces thrown into the scale suspended
from the end of the lever, will
sensibly affect the index, thereby afording
an opportunity of calculating
the strainon the cable with the greatest
precision.

About a mile above the Yard is a
large powder magazine, and a warehouse
for the storage of salt petre, &c.

There is generally employed in the
Yard for the manufactories, and as
laborers, about 200 men; when ships
are building or repairing, the number
is proportionably increased by the
employment of carpenters, caulkers,
boat-builders, mast makers, gun carriage
makers, sail makers, coopers,
&c. The Yard is beautifully situated
on the right bank of the Eastern
branch; the channel of which affords
an easy navigation for small frigates,
sloops of war, &c.

The United States' Arsenal
is situated at the southern extremity
of the city, on the point of land formed
by the junction of the Potomac and


507

Page 507
Anacostia rivers. This position, being
at the head of ship navigation—
at the seat of government—and central
in a national point of view, was
selected in 1804, as a favorable site
for an Arsenal, intended for the manufacture
and depository of Military
Stores. For these purposes it was
exclusively devoted until 1812, when
immediately after the declaration of
war with England, strong batteries
were erected on the sides, approachable
by water, both, to protect the Arsenal
and guard the river channels leading
to the Navy Yard and other parts
of the city. From this time, the place
was known by the name Fort Washton;
notwithstanding its entire want
of defence on the land side; which
made it necessary, after the British
army had entered Washington, for
the American troops to vacate it.—
This was done during the night of
the 24th of August, 1814, after burning
the work shops and removing as
much property as time would permit.
The next morning a detachment of
500 British troops marched to the
fort, and commenced the destruction
of whatever had been left in a serviceable
state. Among other things,
were a number of 18 pounder guns,
left by the garrison in the haste of
departure, mounted in battery and unspiked—these
they attempted to destroy
by discharging one against the
trunnion of another; but, most unfortunately
for the operators, the first
piece discharged happened to be
pointed in the direction of a well near
by into which, some of the wadding
of the gun was thrown by the discharge;
this communicated fire to a
large quantity of powder, previously
placed there by the garrison to prevent
its falling into the hands of the
enemy, and a tremendous explosion
was the immediate consequence; by
which one half of the 500 men, who
entered the place 30 minutes before,
with all the pride and hilarity resulting
from victory, were killed and
wounded. Among the killed, was a
Captain Frazer, acting Adjutant General
of the British army.

In the autumn of 1814, the work
shops were rebuilt; and the manufacture
and preparation of army supplies
went on as before. In 1816 a large
store house and officers' quarters
were erected, forming the north front
of the fort. In 1823-24, the garrison
was withdrawn—the ramparts removed,
and permanent buildings exclusively
for Arsenal purposes erected
on the same ground, making, with
those built in 1816, the four sides of
a rectangular parallelogram. According
to present arrangements,
there are two buildings for the deposite
of muskets, rifles, pistols, swords
and other small arms, 3 for the dwellings
of officers and artificers; and 4
large work shops, besides other
smaller buildings. One of the shops
contains a steam engine which drives
various machines, made use of in repairing
small arms, and in manufacturing
artillery carriages. Of the
latter, a considerable number are annually
made at the place—mostly for
the use of the militia.

The Arsenal contains many thousand
arms, consisting of all the usual
varieties. They are neatly arranged
in open frames, and being kept in perfect
order, present an imposing appearance.
Forty thousand soldiers
can be fully armed and equipped at
an hour's notice. On the plain in
front of the Arsenal, are 855 pieces of
ordnance, including cannon, howitzers
and mortars of various calibres.—
Among them are seen trophies of the
late and revolutionary wars, captured at
Bennington, Saratoga, Yorktown and
Bridgewater.

There is also a cannon, relick of
the revolutionary contest, made in
Virginia of hammered iron. It bears
the name of "Queen of France,"
which was marked upon it at that period.

The geological formation of the
Arsenal grounds, does not differ from
other parts of the city. From the


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Page 508
surface there is an average of 10 feet
in depth of ferruginous clay, resting
on alternate horizontal strata of sand
and gravel, in which are found detached
parcels of bog iron ore.

The following statement of expenditures,
(by the United States) in
Washington, to January 1st, 1830,
includes the entire expenses of rebuilding
the public edifices at Washington,
which were destroyed by fire
in 1814. The building of jails for
Alexandria county and Washington
county,—the purchase of a C. H. for
Washington county,—the erection of
a United States' Penitentiary, and a
variety of other items, not chargable
to the ales of city lots.

                                                                                       
Prior to 1816. 
Purchase of ground for public purposes,  38,697.92 
Purchase of stone quarries,  30,225.31 
Surveying and marking boundaries,  67,469.76 
Opening and improving streets,  33,646.82 
Bridges over Rock, Tiber and James' Creeks,  15,041.99 
Building wharfs,  9,130.17 
Building sheds for workmen,  4,681.23 
Digging canal from James to Tiber creek,  5,670.61 
Interest on loans, commissions, &c.  165,533.93 
Salaries, &c.  119,906.65 
490,004.39 
Capitol, &c. 
Prior to burning in August, 1814,  788,071.28 
From 1814 to January 1, 1830,  1,704,250.27 
Temporary Committee rooms,  2,771.96 
Enclosing the square,  71,602.57 
Alterations in the Capitol,  5,507.84 
Graduating and improving the square,  20,716.99 
Allegorical clock,  2,000.00 
Furnishing committee rooms in centre building,  3,579.30 
2,596,500.21 
President's House, &c. 
Prior to burning in August, 1814,  333,207.04 
From 1814 to January 1, 1830,  300,072.37 
Alterations,  1,945.63 
Covering the roof,  5,405.32 
Erecting walls and gates,  5,887.73 
Graduating and improving the square,  19,009.51 
665,527.60 
Offices. 
Prior to burning in August, 1814,  93,013.82 
From 1814 to January, 1830,  268,850.68 
361,865.50 
Contingencies between 1814 and 1820,  15,673.02 
Engine Houses, Engines, &c.  12,917.37 
Paved footways,  9,064.04 
Purchase of part of the City Hall, for Court, &c.  10,000.00 
Purchase of square 249, for water,  1,246.94 
Jail of Washington County,  4,746.20 
Jail of Alexandria County,  11,186.03 
Penitentiary of the District,  76,127.23 
140,960.83 
Total,  $4,254,858.53 

509

Page 509

Washington County is bounded
N. W. and N. by Montgomery Co.
Md.,—N. E. by Prince George's Co.
Md.,—S. E. by the Eastern branch of
Potomac, and S. W. by the main
stream of Potomac. In form it approaches
a parallelogram, 8 ms. in
length from S. E. to N. W.; mean
breadth 5¼ ms.; area 42 sq. ms. or
42-100ths of the whole district, extending
in lat. from 38° 51′, to 38°
58′ nearly, and in long from 0° 6′ 6″
E. to 0° 03′ W. the Capital. The
surface of this Co. is very finely diversified
by hill and dale. Rock
creek enters near the northern angle,
and meandering in a general direction
from N. to S., enters Potomac
between the city of Washington and
Georgetown. The slope of the whole
county is indeed from N. to S., and
the descent very rapid. The soil
generally thin, though some favorable
exceptions exist. Exclusive of
W. C. and Georgetown, it contained
in 1830 a population of 2,994. The
entire population of the two cities
and the county, was in 1830, 30,262.

The Civil List of the United
States, though relating rather to the
whole Union, than particularly to the
District of Columbia, is a matter of
such general interest, that we will insert
it here.

 
[50]

The Treasury building was consumed
by fire in the summer of 1833, and has not
since been rebuilt, but will soon be commenced.

[51]

The Treasury building was consumed
by fire in the summer of 1833, and has not
since been rebuilt, but will soon be commenced.

CIVIL LIST,

Shewing the nature and extent of the
duties of each officer of the General
Government of the U. States,
and their salaries—with the number
of clerks employed in each department,
and the aggregate
amount of their salaries

The Department of State was created
by the act of 15th September,
1798. Previously to that period, by
act of 27th July, 1789, it was denominated
the Department of Foreign Affairs.
The Secrtary, is ex-officio, a
Commissioner of the Sinking Fund,
and, by usage, a member of the Cabinet.
He conducts the negotiation,
of all treaties between the United
States and foreign powers; and corresponds
officially with the public
Ministers of the United States at Foreign
Courts, and with the Ministers
of Foreign Powers resident in the
United States.—He performs, also
the main duties of what, in other Governments,
is called the Home Department.—Salary,
$6,000.

The office of Secretary of the
Treasury
was created by act of the
2d of September, 1789. He superintends
all the fiscal concerns of the
Government, and, upon his own responsibility,
recommends to Congress
measures for improving the condition
of the revenue. He holds his office
at the will of the President; is, by
usage, a member of the Cabinet; and,
ex-officio, one of the Commissioners
of the Sinking Fund.—Salary, $6,000.

Accounts of the government are finally
settled at the Treasury Department
for which purpose it is divided
into the office of the Secretary, (who
superintends the whole, but who is
not therefore, absolute, with respect to
the power of adjusting claims or of
paying money;) into two Comptrollers,
five Auditors, a Register, and a
Treasurer.

The First Comptroller examines
all accounts settled by the First and
Fifth Auditors, and certifies the balances
arising thereon to the Register,
countersigns all warrants drawn by
the Seceretary of the Treasury, if
warranted by law; reports to the Secretary
the official forms to be used
in the different offices for collecting
the public revenue; and the manner
and form of keeping and stating the
accounts of the several persons employed
therein. He superintends the
preservation of the public accounts
subject to his revision, and provides
for the regular payment of all moneys
which may be collected.—Salary,
$3,500.

The Second Comptroller examines
all accounts settled by the Second,


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Third, and Fourth Auditors, certifies
the balances to the Secretary of the
Department in which the expenditure
has been incurred; countersigns all
requisitions drawn by the Secretaries
of the War and Navy Departments,
warranted by law; reports to the Secretaries
the official forms to be used
in the different offices for distributing
the public money in those Departments,
and the manner and form of
keeping and stating the accounts of
the persons employed therein. It is
also his duty to superintend the preservation
of the public accounts subject
to his revision.—Salary, $3,000.

The First Auditor receives all accounts
accruing in the Treasury Department,
and in relation to the revenue
and the civil list; and, after examination
certifies the balance, and
transmits the accounts, with the vouchers
and certificates, to the First Comptroller,
for his decision thereon.—Salary,
$3,000.

The Second Auditor receives and
settles all accounts for the pay and
clothing of the Army, subsistence of
officers, bounties, and premiums, Medical
and Hospital Department, and
National Armories, arming and equipping
the militia, Ordnance Department,
Indian Department, Purchasing
Department, the contingent expenses
of the War Department, and
all store accounts growing out of the
foregoing. He examines the accounts,
certifies the balances, and transmits
the accounts with the vouchers and
certificates, to the Second Comptroller,
for his decision upon them.—Salary,
$3,000.

The Third Auditor receives all accounts
relative to the subsistence of
the Army, the Quartermaster's Department,
and generally all accounts
of the War Department, other than
those referred to the Second Auditor.
He examines the accounts, certifies
the balances, and transmits the accounts,
with the vouchers and certificates
to the Second Comptroller for
his decision upon them.—Salary,
$3,000.

The Fourth Auditor receives all
accounts accruing in the Navy Department,
or relative to it. He examines
the accounts, certifies the balances,
and transmits the accounts with
the vouchers and certificate, to the
Second Comptroller, for his decision
upon them.—Salary, $3,000.

The Fifth Auditor receives all accounts
accruing in, or relative to, the
Department of State, the General Post
Office, and those arising out of Indian
Trade, examines them, certifies the
balances, and transmits the accounts
with the vouchers and certificate, to
the First Comptroller for his decision
upon them. To the Fifth Auditor,
also, has been assigned the duties of
Commissioner of the Revenue, which
are considerable, embracing a superintendence
of the light house establishment,
and a correspondence with
and superintendence over, the collectors
of the direct tax and internal revenue.—Salary,
$3,000.

To this office has been assigned by
the President also, the duty of agent
of the Treasury, under the act of 15th
May, 1820, for conducting all suits at
law, in which the United States are
concerned.

The Treasurer receives and keeps
the money of the United States, and
disburses the same upon warrants
drawn by the Secretary of the Treasury,
countersigned by the proper
Comptroller and Auditor, and recorded
by the Register.—Salary, $3,000.

The Register of the Treasury
keeps all accounts of the receipts and
expenditures of the public money,
and of all debts due to or from the
United States; he keeps the District
Tonnage Accounts of the United
States; he receives from the Comptrollers
the accounts which have been
finally adjusted, and, with their vouchers
and certificates, preserves them;
he records all warrants for the receipt
or payment of moneys at the Treasury,


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certifies the same thereon, and
transmits to the Secretary of the
Treasury copies of the certificates of
balances of accounts adjusted. By
an act of the 10th February, 1820, it
is made the duty of the Register of
the Treasury, to prepare statistical
accounts of the commerce of the United
States, to be laid before Congress.
—Salary, $3,000.

The War Department was created
by act of 7th August, 1789. The
Secretary of War, at first, had the superintendence
of Naval Affairs. On
the 30th of April, 1798, however, a
separation took place, and a Navy
Department was established. The
Secretary of War superintends every
branch of the military department;
and is, by usage, a member of the
cabinet. He holds his office at the
will of the President. Attached to
the War Department, and under the
immediate direction of the Secretary,
are an Engineer Office, an Ordnance
Office, an Office for the Commissary
General of Subsistence, a Paymaster
General's Office, a Surgeon General's
Office, a Bounty Land Office,
and a Pension Bureau. All these
offices, together with the Head-Quarters
of the Commanding General,
(Major General Macomb,) and the
Adjutant General's and Quartermaster
General's Offices, are located at
Washington.—Salary, $6,000.

The office of Secretary of the Navy
was created by act of the 30th of
April, 1798. He issues all orders to
the Navy of the United States, and
superintends the concerns of the Naval
Establishment generally. A
Board of Navy Commissioners was
instituted by act of 7th February,
1815, to aid him in the discharge of
his duties. The Secretary of the
Navy is, by usage, a member of the
cabinet, and holds his office at the will
of the President.—Salary, $6,000.

General Post Office.—This Department
is under the superintendence
of a Post Master General, who is aided
in the discharge of his duties by
two Assistants. He has the sole appointment
of all Postmasters throughout
the United States; the making of
all contracts for carrying the mails;
and, in short, the control, according
to law, for every thing relating to the
institution. Since the commencement
of President Jackson's administration,
he is a member of the cabinet.—
Salary, $6,000.

Board of Commissioners for the
Navy.
—This Board was established
by act of 7th of February, 1815. It
consists of three Captains of the Navy,
in rank not below that of a Post
Captain. The Board is by law, attached
to the office of the Secretary
of the Navy, and under his superintendence;
discharges all the ministerial
duties of that office relative to
the procurement of naval stores and
materials, and the construction, armament,
equipment and employment of
vessels of war, as well as other matters
connected with the Naval Establishment
of the United States."

The number of Clerks employed
in the State Department, including
those in the patent office, with three
messengers, are 20—whose joint salaries
amount to $22,000.

In the Treasury Department there
are employed ten clerks with one
messenger.—Their joint salaries are
$13,750.

In the First Comptroller's Office
there are employed fifteen clerks with
one messenger—whose joint salaries
amount to $18,450.

In the Second Comptroller's there
are employed eight clerks, with one
messenger—their joint salaries amount
to $10,300.

In the First Auditor's Office there
are employed eleven clerks, with one
messenger—whose salaries amount
to $13,000.

In the Second Auditor's Office there
are employed fourteen clerks—whose
joint salaries amount to $16,350.

In the Third Auditor's Office there


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are employed sixteen clerks, with one
messenger—whose joint salaries amount
to $20,600.

In the Fourth Auditor's Office there
are employed fifteen clerks—whose
joint salaries amount to $17,050.

In the Fifth Auditor's Office there
are employed twelve clerks—whose
joint salaries amount to $14,400.

In the Treasurer's Office there are
employed five clerks—whose joint
salaries amount to $6,050.

In the Register's Office there are
employed twenty clerks, with two
messengers, whose joint salaries amount
to $23,500.

Commissioner General of the Land
Office, with a salary $3,000.—In this
office there are employed eighteen
clerks, with one messenger—their
joint salaries being $20,150.

In the War Department, there are
employed fifteen clerks, with one
messenger whose joint salaries are
$19,850.

In the Adjutant General's Office
are employed two clerks—their joint
salaries being $2,950.

In the Paymaster General's Office
there are employed three clerks and
one messenger—their, joint salaries
being $4,600.

In the Ordnance Department there
are employed three clerks—whose
salaries amount to $2,950.

In the Surgeon General's Office,
there are employed one clerk with a
salary of $1,150.

In the Quartermaster General's
Office there are employed two clerks
—their joint salaries being $2,150.

In the Navy Department there are
employed seven clerks, whose salaries
amount to $9,400.

There are three Navy Commissioners,
whose joint salaries amount
to $10,500. The Secretary's salary
is $2,000. In this office are employed
six clerks—their joint salaries
amounting to $6,750—also a Draftsman,
whose salary is $1,000, and a
Messenger at $700.

There are two Navy Constructors,
whose salaries amount to $5,300, and
a Naval Storekeeper—at $1,700 per
annum.

Besides the General Postmaster
there are two Assistant Postmaster
Generals, whose salaries amount to
$5,000—and in the General Post Office
there are employed forty-four
clerks and one messenger—whose
salaries amount to 40,200.

Addenda to the Gazetteer of Virginia and District of Columbia.

CONGRESSIONAL DISTRICTS OF VA.

By an act of Assembly, 1833, the counties and towns of this state were
divided into 21 Congressional Districts, in the manner following, to wit:

District 1st—Contains the counties of Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond,
borough of Norfolk, Elizabeth City, and Ise
Wight.

District 2d—Is composed of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince
George, Greensville and the town of Petersburg.

District 3d—Is composed of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Goochland
and Nottoway.

District 4th—Is composed of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and
Dinwiddie.

District 5th—Is composed of Prince Edward. Charlotte, Buckingham
and Cumberland.

District 6th—Is composed of Campbell, Halifax, and Pittsylvania.

District 7th—Is composed of Franklin, Bedford, Patrick and Henry.


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District 8th—Is composed of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester,
Warwick, Accomac, Northampton and the City of Williamsburg.

District 9th—Is composed of Essex, Caroline, King and Queen, King
William and Middlesex.

District 10th—Is composed of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Northumberland,
King George, Stafford and Prince William.

District 11th—Is composed of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, City of
Richmond and New Kent.

District 12th—Is composed of Albemarle, Nelson, Fluvanna, Louisa and
Amherst.

District 13th—Is composed of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock,
Madison and Orange.

District 14th—Is composed of Loudoun, Fauquier and Fairfax.

District 15th—Is composed of Morgan, Jefferson, Berkley, Hampshire and
Frederick.

District 16th—Is composed of Rockingham, Shenandoah, Page, Hardy, Pendleton
and Bath.

District 17th—Is composed of Rockbridge, Augusta, Alleghany, Botetourt,
Montgomery and Floyd.

District 18th—Is composed of Wythe, Washington, Grayson, Scott, Lee,
Smyth, Tazewell and Russell.

District 19th—Is composed of Fayette, Nicholas, Greenbrier, Monroe, Giles,
Logan, Kanawha and Cabell.

District 20th—Is composed of Harrison, Lewis, Wood, Mason, Jackson,
Randolph and Pocahontas.

District 21st—Is composed of Monongalia, Preston, Tyler, Ohio and
Brooke.

ELECTORAL DISTRICTS.

By act of Assembly, 1833, this state was divided into twenty-three Electoral
Districts—to provide for the appointment of Electors to choose a President
and Vice-President of the United States, and are as follows, viz:

District 1st—Norfolk, Princess Anne, Nansemond, the borough of Norfolk,
Elizabeth City and the Isle of Wight, shall form one
district.

District 2d—The counties of Sussex, Southampton, Surry, Prince George,
Greensville, and the town of Petersburg, shall form another
district.

District 3d—The counties of Powhatan, Amelia, Chesterfield, Goochland
and Nottoway, shall form another district.

District 4th—The counties of Brunswick, Lunenburg, Mecklenburg and
Dinwiddie, shall form another district.

District 5th—The counties of Prince Edward, Charlotte, Buckingham,
Cumberland and Fluvanna, shall form another district.

District 6th—The counties of Halifax, Campbell and Bedford, shall form
another district.

District 7th—The counties of Pittsylvania, Franklin, Henry and Patrick,
shall form another district.


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District 8th—The counties of York, Mathews, James City, Gloucester,
Warwick, Accomack and Northampton, shall form another
district.

District 9th—The counties of King & Queen, King William, Essex, Caroline
and Middlesex, shall form another district.

District 10th—The counties of Westmoreland, Richmond, Lancaster, Northumberland,
King George, Stafford and Prince William,
shall form another district.

District 11th—The counties of Henrico, Charles City, Hanover, New Kent,
and the City of Richmond, shall form another district.

District 12th—The counties of Albemarle, Nelson, Louisa and Amherst,
shall form another district.

District 13th—The counties of Spottsylvania, Culpeper, Rappahannock,
Madison and Orange, shall form another district.

District 14th—The counties of Fauquier, Loudoun and Fairfax, shall form
another district.

District 15th—The counties of Jefferson, Berkley, Morgan and Hampshire
shall form another district.

District 16th—The counties of Frederick, Shenandoah and Page, shall form
another district.

District 17th—The counties of Hardy, Preston, Randolph, Pendleton and
Rockingham, shall form another district.

District 18th—The counties of Augusta, Rockbridge, Bath and Alleghany,
shall form another district.

District 19th—The counties of Greenbrier, Nicholas, Pocahontas, Fayette
and Monroe, shall form another district.

District 20th—The counties of Botetourt, Giles, Montgomery, Grayson,
Floyd and Wythe, shall form another district.

District 21th—The counties of Washington, Tazewell, Russell, Scott, Lee
and Smyth, shall form another district.

District 22d—The counties of Kanawha, Mason, Cabell, Logan, Lewis,
Harrison and Jackson, shall form another district.

District 23d—The counties of Brooke, Ohio, Tyler, Monongalia and Wood,
shall form another district.

2. Be it further enacted, That the elections for president and vice-president
of the United States shall be held and conducted in all respects, according
to the provisions of the said act to provide for the appointment of electors
to choose a president and vice-president of the United States, passed at
the last session of the general assembly: Provided only, That the voters
in said elections shall each vote for twenty-three electors, which number
shall be composed of one person from each electoral-districts, as arranged
by this act.

3. Be it further enacted, That if the executive of this commonwealth
shall fail to appoint commissioners to conduct the election of electors of president
and vice-president within any county or corporation of this commonwealth,
or if no one of the said commissioners so appointed, should attend
at the time and place prescribed by law, then it shall and may be lawful for
any two justices of the peace of the county within which the election is to
be holden, to conduct the said election, and to make returns thereof in the
same manner as if they had been regularly appointed and commissioned
for that purpose by the executive of this commonwealth. Provided, however,
That the said justices of the peace shall take the oath prescribed by


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law for commissioners appointed by the executive for conducting such election,
before they shall be authorized to perform the duties prescribed by this
act.

VIRGINIA ELECTION LAWS.

"The election of delegates, and of the eight senators for one of the four
classes of senatorial districts, in the room of those who will be annually displaced,
shall be held in the several counties, cities, towns and boroughs on
their respective court days in the month of April of every future year.

2. No elector shall vote more than once for any senator in the same district,
at any one election.

3. Every white male citizen of this commonwealth resident therein, aged
twenty-one years and upwards (other than such as have refused to give assurance
of fidelity to the commonwealth) being possessed, or whose tenant
for years, at will or at sufferance is possessed of twenty-five acres of land,
with a house, the superficial content of the foundation whereof is twelve feet
square, or equal to that quantity, and a plantation thereon; or fifty acres of
unimproved land; or a lot or part of a lot of land in a city or town established
by act of general assembly, with a house thereon of the like superficial
content or quantity, having in such land an estate of freehold at the
least, and (unless the title shall have come to him by descent, devise, marriage
or marriage settlement) having been so possessed six months, shall be
qualified to vote for delegates to serve in general assembly, for the county,
city, town, borough or election district respectively, in which the land lieth.
If the fifty acres of land, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, the
holder shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth
only; and if the twenty-five acres of land, being one entire parcel lie in several
counties, the holder shall vote in that county wherein the house standeth
only. In right of land held by parceners, joint tenants, or tenants in
common, qualified to exercise the right of suffrage according to the former
constitution and laws, but one vote shall be given by all the holders capable
of voting, who may be present, and agree to vote for the same candidate or
candidates, unless the quantity of land, in case partition had been made
thereof, be sufficient to entitle every holder present to vote separately; or
unless some one or more of the holders may lawfully vote in right of another
estate or estates in the same county; in which case, the others may vote, if
holding solely, they might have voted.

4. Every white male citizen of the commonwealth, resident therein, aged
twenty-one years and upwards, being qualified to exercise the right of suffrage,
according to the fourteenth section of the third article of the constitution,
shall be qualified to vote for members of the general assembly, in the
manner therein prescribed. If the land in the said constitution mentioned
and referred to, being one entire parcel, lie in several counties, and be insufficient
in value to entitle the person interested therein to vote in all the
said counties, such person, whether he be possessed of an estate of freehold
or leasehold; whether he be tenant in common, joint tenant or parcener,
shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land lieth only;
and any citizen claiming the right to vote, in consequence of being entitled
to a reversion, or vested remainder in fee, expectant on an estate for life or


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lives, in land, which, being one entire parcel, may happen to lie in several
counties, and be insufficient in value to entitle such citizen to vote in all the
said counties, shall vote in that county wherein the greater part of the land
lieth only. In case of two or more tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners,
in possession, reversion or remainder, having an interest in land,
the value whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, and who,
not being qualified to exercise the right of suffrage, according to the former
constitution and laws, have had that right conferred upon them by the present
constitution, their vote or votes shall in such case be given in manner
following, that is to say: if the value of land be sufficient to entitle them to
one vote only, the same shall be given by all the said tenants in common,
joint tenants or parceners, capable of voting, who may be present, and agree
to vote for the same candidate or candidates. If the value of the land be sufficient
to entitle them to more than one vote, the votes to which they are entitled,
shall be given by all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners,
capable of voting, who may be present, and agree as to the candidate
or candidates to whom the said votes shall be given. No one of any
number of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, shall give
more than one vote at the same election; nor shall any greater number of
votes be given by such tenants in common, joint tentants or parceners, than
the value of the undivided land held by them may entitle them to give, according
to the constitution. When a vote or votes shall have been given as
aforesaid, by such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, the whole
of the said tenants in common, joint tenants and parceners, not having been
present, and not having agreed to the said vote or votes, if he or they, who
were absent at the giving of the said vote or votes, should afterwards appear
at the said election, before the taking of the votes is at an end, and to the officer
conducting the said election, object to the said votes as given, the same
shall be stricken from the poll. When an election shall be held at different
places in the same county, and such tenants in common, joint tenants or
parceners, entitled to only one vote, shall be polled at different places, and
for a different candidate or candidates, their votes shall be stricken from the
poll. When an election shall be held at different places in the same county,
and such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, entitled to give
more votes than one, shall give their votes at different places, and in opposition
to each other, the said votes shall be stricken from the poll, if it shall
appear that all the said tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners, did
not agree, before such votes were polled, to whom they should be given.
In case of two or more of such tenants in common, joint tenants or parceners
in possession, reversion or remainder, having interest in land, the value
whereof shall be insufficient to entitle them all to vote, if some one or
more of them may lawfully vote in right of another estate or estates in the
same county, the others may vote in the same manner as if he or they,
holding such other estate or estates in the same county, had no interest
whatever in the undivded land belonging to the said tenants in common
joint tenants or parceners.

5. If any person shall vote a second time at any election for members of
general assembly; or if any person shall claim and exercise the right of suffrage,
in consequence of having paid a part of the revenue of the commonwealth,
with which he may have been, by his own procurement, falsely assessed;
each and every such person shall, for his offence, forfeit and pay to
the commonwealth, for the benefit of the literary fund, the sum of thirty three


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dollars thirty-three cents, recoverable by motion in the superior or inferior
court of law held for the county, city, town or borough, in which the offence
is committed, in the name and on behalf of the president and directors of the
literary fund, provided ten days notice shall have been given of such motion.

6. Every elector going to, abiding at, and returning from, an election,
shall be privileged from arrest one day for every twenty miles he shall necessarily
travel, exclusive of the day of election: and any process against
such elector, executed during such privilege, shall be void.

7. And it shall be the duty of the sheriff or other officer conducting such
election, not to enter on the poll the vote of any person who may offer to
vote, unless he believes such person to be qualified to vote, or unless such
person shall take an oath, which the said sheriff or other officer conducting
said election, is hereby authorised to administer, or make solemn affirmation
before the said sheriff or other officer conducting the said election, in
this form "I, A B do swear, (or do solemnly affirm, as the case may be,)
that I do in my conscience believe myself to be duly qualified to vote for a
delegate or delegates for the county, city, town, borough, or election district
of      , or for a senator for the district of which the county, city, town,
borough, or election district of       is a part, to serve in the general assembly
of this commonwealth: So help me God.
" Of which oath or affirmation,
a note shall be made in the poll book opposite, and referring to, the
name of the person swearing or affirming. The making such oath or affirmation,
or any other oath or affirmation by this act required, falsely, shall
be perjury.

8. In the case of an election of a delegate or delegates for a county, city,
town, or borough, the candidate or candidatrs appearing to have the greatest
number of votes, shall be considered elected; or when the greatest number
of votes for several candidates, if it be an election of a delegate or delegates
for a county, city, town or borough, shall be equal to one another, the sheriff
or other officer who conducted the election at the court-house, may and
shall declare which of the candidates he will elect, notwithstanding his vote
as an elector may have been previously entered on the poll.

9. The officers conducting elections at the court-house of each county,
city, town, or borough, within the senatorial districts of this commonwealth,
shall meet at the times and places herein above directed, and from the said
polls of their respective counties, cities, towns and boroughs, shall certify as
the senator elected, the man who shall have the greatest number of votes in
the whole district; and if the greatest number of votes for several persons
to be a senator be equal to one another, and the votes of the returning officers
be equal also, it shall be decided by a lot taken by such returning officers
at their said meeting, a copy of which certificate shall be forthwith set
up by them at the front door of the court-house of the county, city, town, or
borough, at which their said meeting may be held, informing the public of
the name of the senator elected in manner aforesaid, and another copy
thereof shall be by them delivered to the clerk of the said county, city, town,
or borough, to be by him safely kept and preserved in his office, and the
said clerk shall suffer any candidate or elector, at any time, to take a copy
thereof.

10. No elector shall be admitted to a poll a second time at one and the
same election, although at the first time he shall not have voted for as many
candidates as by law he might have voted for. If the electors, who appear,
be so numerous, that they cannot all be polled before sun-setting, or if by
rain or rise of water courses, many of the electors may have been hindered


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from attending, the sheriff, or under sheriff, or other proper officer conducting
such election at the court-house, and the superintendents of any separate
poll, (if such cause shall exist at any separate poll, for the adjournment
thereof,) may and shall, by request of any one or more of the candidates or
their agents, adjourn the proceeding on the poll until the next day, and so
from day to day, for three days, (Sundays excluded,) giving public notice
thereof by proclamation, at the door of the court-house or other place of
holding such election, and shall, on the last day of the election, conclude the
poll according to the directions aforesaid; but if the poll to be held at any
such election, is not closed on the first day, the same shall be kept open two
days thereafter.

11. In all cases whatsoever, where by law the sheriff is directed to hold
an election, in case of the death of the said sheriff, or other officer, whose
duty it shall be to conduct such election, or where there shall be no such
officer, the senior magistrate, and in his absence, inability, or incapacity, by
being a candidate, the second, and so in succession to the junior magistrate,
is hereby authorised empowered and required to perform the duties of the
sheriff, prescribed by law in similar cases. And if the mayor of any town,
city or borough, entitled to representation in the general assembly, shall, by
death or any other cause whatever, be unable to attend and conduct the
election according to the provisions of this act, the recorder, or if there be
no recorder, or he be unable to attend, the senior alderman capable of attending,
shall attend and conduct such election according to law.

12. On complaint to either house of assembly, of an undue election or return
of any member to their house, which complaint shall be lodged against
such member within ten days after the meeting of the assembly, where the
contested election shall have been held at the stated annual period, or within
thirty days after the day on which the election shall have commenced, (if
it be the election of a delegate,) or within thirty days after the day on which
the last election in the senatorial district shall have commenced, (if it be the
election of a senator,) where such election shall have been held in consequence
of an intermediate vacancy, and such house shall be in session, or if
not in session, within twenty days after the meeting of the general assembly,
such house shall forthwith appoint some day for trying the same, as shortly
as shall be consistent with fair enquiry, whereof notice shall be given by
the speaker to the party against whom the complaint is, if he be absent,
which day of trial may be lengthened from time to time, on good cause
shewn to the house, and notice to the absent party. On the day appointed
for the trial, the committee of privileges and elections shall proceed in the
said disputed election, and report to the house of which they are members,
their opinion thereon, before they proceed to any other business; and the
said house shall, on receipt of the said report, immediately proceed to determine
thereon, and either confirm or disagree to such report, as to them
shall seem just. If any person sworn before the said committee, shall give
or withhold any evidence, under such circumstances as would have constituted
the same to be perjury, if done in the presence of a court of record, the
same shall be deemed perjury. If upon such trial, in the case of a contested
election of a delegate, it shall appear that equal numbers of qualified
electors shall have voted for the petitioner and the sitting member, and the
officer who conducted the election at the court-house of the county, city,
town, or borough, (if it be the election of a delegate from a county, city,
town, or borough,) or a majority of the returning officers of the election district,
(if it be the election of a delegate from an election district,) shall swear, or


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solemnly affirm, that if such equality had appeared at the election in the
former case, or at the time of their meeting to make the return in the latter
case, he or they would have declared the petitioner elected, such petitioner
shall be deemed duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting
member, (which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return.
If upon such trial, in the case of a contested election of a senator, it shall
appear that equal numbers of qualified electors shall have voted for the petitioner
and the sitting member, and a majority of the officers who made the
return upon such election, shall swear, or solemnly affirm, that if such equality
had appeared at the time of their meeting to make the said return, they
would have declared the petitioner elected, such petitioner shall be deemed
duly elected, and his name, instead of the name of the sitting member,
(which shall be erased,) shall be inserted in the certificate of return.

13. The officers directed to make certificates of elections as aforesaid,
shall cause them to be delivered, those of delegates, to the clerk of the
house of delegates, and those of senators, to the clerk of the senate, one day
at least before the succeeding session of general assembly.

14. For election of a delegate or senator, when a vacancy shall occur by
death or resignation, during the recess of the general assembly, a writ or
writs shall be issued by the governor and in all other cases of vacancy,
such writ or writs shall be issued by the speaker of that house whereof he
was a member; but if the vacancy be occasioned by acceptance of an office,
the writ or writs shall not be issued without the special order of the house.
And the officer or officers to whom such writ or writs shall be directed, so
soon after the receipt thereof as he or they may be able, shall give to the
electors notice thereof, as well as of the time and place of election, by advertisement
to be affixed at four of the most convenient places in the county,
city, town or borough, and shall cause the election to be made in the manner
herein before prescribed, and shall have the same power of adjourning
the proceeding upon the poll, as in case of a general election.

15. Any person who shall be a candidate for any county, city, town, borough,
election district or senatorial district, to serve, if elected, in the general
assembly, who shall, directly or indirectly, give or agree to give, any
elector or pretended elector, money, meat, drink, or other reward, in order
to be elected, or for having been elected, or who shall treat, directly or indirectly,
being a candidate for such or any other county, city, town, borough,
or election district, or senatorial district, upon due proof thereof to either
house, shall be expelled. Provided, nevertheless, That nothing herein centained
shall be so construed, as to prevent any candidate from his usual intercourse
of friendship with his neighbors at his own house.

16. If any sheriff or other officer conducting an election, shall, directly
or indirectly, so interfere in the election of senators or delegates, as to shew
partiality for any of the candidates, he shall forfeit and pay the sum of six
hundred and sixty-six dollars sixty-six cents, to be recovered by bill, plaint
or information, in any court of record, one moiety to the use of the informer,
and the other to the use of the commonwealth, for the benefit of the literary
fund.

17. All and every member and members of the general assembly are,
and ought to be and forever shall be, in their persons, servants and estates,
both real and personal, free, exempt and privileged from all arrests, attachments,
executions, and all other process whatsoever, save only for treason,
felony, or breach of the peace, during his or their attendance upon the general


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assembly, and one day before and after, for every twenty miles they must
necessarily travel to or from home; and, in the mean time, process in which
they are parties, shall be suspended without abatement or discontinuance;
and, if any person taken in execution, be delivered by privilege of either
house of the general assembly, so soon as such privilege ceaseth, he shall
return himself a prisoner in execution, or be liable to an escape.

18. Whereas, the freedom of speech and proceedings appertaineth of
right to the general assembly, and the preservation thereof is necessary to
secure the liberty of the people: Be it enacted, That if any person
shall arrest or prosecute, or be aiding or abetting in arresting and prosecuting
a member or members of the senate or house of delegates, for or
on account of any words spoken or written, any proposition made, or proceedings
had in the senate or house of delegates, every such person so offending,
shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be apprehended,
committed and tried therefor, as in other cases of misdemeanors, before
the general court, or a superior court of law of this commonwealth; and,
being thereof convicted by the verdict of a jury, shall be adjudged to suffer
imprisonment for a term not exceeding one year, and shall pay a fine not
exceeding two thousand dollars; which imprisonment and fine shall be assessed
by a jury.

19. And if any member or members of the said senate or house of delegates,
shall be arrested or imprisoned, for, or on account of any words, spoken
or written, or for any proposition made, or proceedings had in the said
senate or house of delegates, such member or members may apply to the
general court, or a superior court of law, or any judge thereof in vacation,
for a writ of habeas corpus, who are hereby empowered and required to
issue the same, returnable before the said court, or said judge, or any other
judge, and, upon the return thereof, to liberate and discharge such member
or members.

20. The provisions of this act shall be extended to the arresting and prosecuting
any person or persons, for words spoken or written, or for any
propositions made, or proceedings had in the said senate or house of delegates,
and to the discharging and liberating any person or persons, by habeas
corpus,
as aforesaid, although such person or persons shall, by disqualification,
or from any other causes, have ceased to be a member of the said
senate or house of delegates, at the time of such arrest or prosecution, or
of the trial, judgment, or imprisonment, in consequence thereof. Provided,
That nothing herein contained shall, in any respect, extend to the power
which either house of the general assembly now hath or may exercise over
their respective members.

21. Any person intending to contest the election of any other person, as
a senator or delegate from any senatorial district, county, city, town or borough,
or election district, shall, within twenty-fiive days after the day on
which the last election in the former case shall have commenced, or within
fifteen days after the day on which the election (if it be the election of a
delegate for a county, city, town or borough,) shall have commenced, or
within twenty days after the day on which the last election (if it be the election
of a delegate for an election district,) shall have commenced, give to
the person whose election he intends to contest, notice thereof in writing;
and moreover, shall deliver to him, at the same time, a list of those persons
to whose votes he hath objection, with the objection to each voter written
opposite to his name, stating that the person objected to, is not qualified to


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vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that he labors
under some express personal disability, according to the provisions thereof,
to exercise the right of suffrage; and where he hath any other objection
to the legality of the election, or eligibility of the person whose election he
intends to contest as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such
person, being founded upon his want of all, or any of the qualifications
required by the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof,
distinguishing his particular objections; and the person whose election is
contested as aforesaid, shall, within twenty days after receiving such notice,
deliver the like lists on his part.

22. Whensoever the election of any person as a senator or delegate, is
intended to be contested, the petitioner and the returned member shall respectively
begin to take their depositions within one month after the delivery
of the notice in writing as aforesaid, given by the petitioner to the returned
member, informing him as aforesaid, of his intention to contest his election;
and they shall finish taking the same at least thirty days preceding the commencement
of the ensuing session of the general assembly. And where
such contest shall arise in consequence of any return made, on any writ or
writs issued by the governor, or by the speaker of either house of the
general assembly, to supply any vacancy which may have happened, the
party contesting shall give notice in writing to the returned member of his
intention to contest his election, and moreover shall deliver to him a list of
those persons to whose votes he hath objection, with the objection to each
voter written opposite to his name, stating that the person objected to is not
qualified to vote according to the constitution, or in case of incapacity, that
he labors under some express personal disability, according to the provisions
thereof, to exercise the right of suffrage; and if he have any other
objection to the legality of the election, or the eligibility of the member
returned as aforesaid, (such objection to the eligibility of such member
being founded upon his want of all or any of the qualifications required by
the constitution,) he shall in like manner give notice thereof, distinguishing
his particular objections, within ten days after the last day on which
votes shall have been taken in the said election; and the member returned
as aforesaid, shall within five days after receiving such notice, deliver the
like lists on his part.

23. Notice in any of the cases before mentioned, as well as the lists left
with his wife or any other free person over the age of twenty-one years,
belonging to his family, other than a negro or mulatto, or in case of their
absence, then at some public place at the dwelling house, shall be deemed
sufficient. The depositions shall be certified by the commissioners taking
the same, sealed up, and sent by them to the clerk of that house of which
the person was returned a member, without delay; and the depositions
taken as aforesaid, shall be by the clerk of the house, respectively, delivered
to the speaker thereof, to be committed with the petition of the party complaining,
and shall be received and read as evidence upon the hearing thereof;
subject, however, to the exceptions of the opposite party.

24. Subpœnas for witnesses shall be issued by the clerks of the courts
of the counties, cities, towns or boroughs, upon the application of either
party; and the witnesses shall be entitled to the same allowance, be privileged
from arrests, and be subject to the like penalties, as witnesses attending
the county courts.

25. It shall be lawful to hold a separate poll to choose an elector or electors


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for president and vice-president of the United States in any county of
this state, at such place or places, as now, or may hereafter be prescribed
for holding a separate poll or polls for the election of members of the general
assembly: And the persons qualified according to law to vote for members
of the general assembly of this state, shall assemble at the place or
places directed for holding such separate poll or polls, on the first Monday in
November in every fourth year, according to the provisions of the act, entitled
"an act to reduce into one act the acts now in force providing for the appointment
of electors to choose a president and vice-president of the United
States," passed February the eighteenth, eighteen hundred and twenty-three.

26. If from death, sickness or other cause, the returning officer, herein
before designated, in any case of a senatorial election, or in any case of an
election of a delegate for an election district, shall be unable to attend for
the purpose of comparing the polls, and making the returns at the time
and place prescribed by law, then such duties, and all other duties consequent
thereupon, shall be performed in the following manner, that is to
say: If the sheriff, being the proper returning officer, shall have died,
then the duties aforesaid shall be performed by his successor, if any there
be; if there be no successor, then by the coroner of the county; if such
sheriff be sick, or otherwise unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed
by such of his deputies as he shall appoint for that purpose; or if
he have no deputy, by the coroner. If the deputy sheriff, being the proper
returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the said duties
shall be performed by the high sheriff, or by deputy. If a mayor, being
the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be unable to attend, the
said duties shall be performed by his successor, if any there be; if none,
by the recorder; if no recorder, then by the senior alderman capable of attending.
If a recorder, being the proper returning officer, shall have died,
or be unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the mayor, if
any; if none, by the senior alderman capable of attending. If a magistrate
or alderman, being the proper returning officer, shall have died, or be
unable to attend, the said duties shall be performed by the magistrate or
alderman next in seniority, and capable of attending. And if there shall
be no person hereby authorised, who shall be able to attend and perform
the said duties, then the clerk of the county, city, town or borough, as the
case may be, shall be bound in all things promptly to perform the duties
aforesaid.

27. The election of members of the house of representatives of the congress
of the United States, shall continue to be held in the manner, and according
to the principles prescribed by the laws now in force in relation
thereto; except that all persons now authorised to vote for members of the
house of delegates, shall hereafter be allowed to vote in such elections; and
except also, that the said elections shall be held in the several counties,
cities, towns, and boroughs, on their respective court days in the
month of August of the present year, and on their respective court days in
the month of April, in the year eighteen hundred and thirty-three; and
also, on their respective court days in the month of April, in every second
year thereafter; and except also, that the officers holding and conducting
such elections for members of congress shall, before such election commences,
take an oath to conduct the election fairly, in the like form with
that prescribed by the tuelfth[52] section of this act, to be taken by the sheriff
or other officer conducting elections of members of the general assembly.


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The Ratification of Virginia to the Constitution of the United States.

We, the delegates of the people of Virginia, duly elected, in pursuance
of a recommendation of the General Assembly, and now met in convenhaving
fully and fairly investigated and discussed the proceedings of the
federal convention, and being prepared as well as the most mature deliberation
will enable us, to decide thereon, DO, in the name and behalf of the
people of Virginia, declare and make known, that the powers granted
under the constitution being derived from the people of the United States,
may be resumed by them whensoever the same shall be perverted to their
injury or oppression, and that every power not granted thereby, remains
with them and at their will: that therefore no right, of any denomination, can
be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by the Congress, by the
Senate, or House of Representatives, acting in any capacity, by the president,
or any department or officer of the United States, except in those
instances where power is given by the constitution for those purposes: that
among other essential rights, the liberty of conscience and of the press,
cannot be cancelled, abridged, restrained or modified by any authority of
the United States:

With these impressions, with a solemn appeal to the Searcher of hearts
for the purity of our intentions, and under the conviction, that, whatsoever
imperfections may exist in the constitution, ought rather to be examined in
the mode prescribed therein, than to bring the union into danger by delay,
with a hope of obtaining amendments previous to the ratification:

We, the said delegates, in the name and in behalf of the people of Virginia,
do, by these presents, assent to and ratify the constitution, recommended
on the 17th day of September, 1787, by the federal convention for the
government of the United States; hereby announcing to all those whom
it may concern, that the said constitution is binding upon the said people,
according to an authentic copy hereto annexed, in the words following:

A Declaration of Rights made by the Representatives of the People of
Virginia, assembled and held at the Capitol in the City of Williamsburg,
in full and free Convention—which rights do pertain to them
and their posterity as a basis and foundation of Government.

(Agreed to nem con, June, 12th, 1776.)

I. That there are certain natural rights, of which men, when they form
a social compact, cannot deprive or divest their posterity; among which
are the enjoyment of life and liberty, with the means of acquiring, possessing,
and protecting property, and pursuing and obtaining happiness and
safety.

II. That all power is naturally vested in, and consequently derived from,
the people; that magistrates, therefore, are their trustees and agents, and at
all times amenable to them.

III. That government ought to be instituted for the common benefit, protection,
and security of the people; and that the doctrine of non-resistance
against arbitrary power and oppression, is absurd, slavish, and destructive
to the good and happiness of mankind.

IV. That no man or set of men are entitled to exclusive or separate public
emoluments or privileges from the community, but in consideration of


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public services; which not being descendable, neither ought the offices of
magistrate, legislator, judge or any other public offices to be hereditary.

V. That the legislative, executive, and judiciary powers of government
should be separate and distinct: and, that the members of the two first may
be restrained from oppression by feeling and participating the public burdens,
they should at fixed periods be reduced to a private station—return
into the mass of the people; and the vacancies supplied by certain and
regular elections, in which all or any part of the members to be eligible
or ineligible, as the rules of the constitution of government, and the laws
shall direct.

VI. That elections of representatives in the legislature ought to be free
and frequent: and all men, having sufficient evidence of permanent common
interest with, and attachment to, the community, ought to have the
right of suffrage; and no aid, charge, tax, or fee can be set, rated or levied
upon the people, without their own consent, or that of their representatives
so elected, nor can they be bound by any law, to which they have not in
like manner assented for the public good.

VII. That all power of suspending laws, or the execution of laws, by
any authority without the consent of the representatives of the people, in
the legislature, is injurious to their rights, and ought not to be exercised.

VIII. That in all capital and criminal prosecutions, a man hath a right
to demand the cause and nature of his accusations; to be confronted with
the accusers and witnesses; to call for evidence, and be allowed counsel in
his favor; and to a fair and speedy trial, by an impartial jury of his vicinage,
without whose unanimous consent, he cannot be found guilty (except
in the government of the land and naval forces); nor can he be compelled
to give evidence against himself.

IX. That no freeman ought to be taken, imprisoned, or disseized of his
freehold, liberties, privileges, or franchises, or outlawed, or exiled, or in
any manner destroyed or deprived of his life, liberty, or property, but by
the law of the land.

X. That every freeman, restrained of his liberty, is entitled to a remedy,
to enquire into the lawfulness thereof, and to remove the same, if unlawful;
and that such remedy ought not to be denied or delayed.

XI. That in controversies respecting property, and in suits between man
and man, the ancient trial by jury is one of the greatest securities to the
rights of the people, and ought to remain sacred and inviolable.

XII. That every freemen ought to find a certain remedy of recourse to
the laws for all injuries and wrongs he may receive in his person, property,
or character. He ought to obtain right and justice freely without sale, completely
and without denial, promptly and without delay, and that all establishments
or regulations, contravening these rights, are oppressive and unjust:

XIII. That excessive bail ought not to be required, nor excessive fines
imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted.

XIV. That every freeman has a right to be secure from all unreasonable
searches, and seizures of his person, his papers, and property; all warrants,
therefore, to search suspected places, or seize any freeman, his papers,
or property, without information upon oath (or affirmation of a person religiously
scrupulous of taking an oath) of legal and sufficient cause, are
grievous and oppressive, and all general warrants to search suspected
places, or to apprehend any suspected person without specially naming or
describing the place or person, are dangerous and ought not to be granted.


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XV. That the people have a right peaceably to assemble together to
consult for the common good, or to instruct their representatives: and that
every freeman has a right to petition, or apply to the legislature for redress
of grievances.

XVI. That the people have a right to freedom of speech, and of writing,
and publishing their sentiments; that the freedom of the press is one
of the greatest bulwarks of liberty, and ought not to be violated.

XVII. That the people have a right to keep and bear arms; that a well-regulated
militia, composed of the body of the people trained to arms, is
the proper, natural, and safe defence of a free state. That standing armies
in time of peace are dangerous to liberty, and therefore ought to be avoided,
as far as the circumstances and protection of the community will admit;
and that in all cases, the military should be under strict subordination to,
and governed by, the civil power.

XVIII. That no soldier in time of peace ought to be quartered in any
house, without the consent of the owner, and in time of war in such manner
only as the laws direct.

XIX. That any person religiously scrupulous of bearing arms, ought
to be exempted upon payment of an equivalent to employ another to bear
arms in his stead.

XX. That religion, or the duty which we owe to our Creator, and the
manner of discharging it, can be directed only by reason and conviction,
not by force or violence, and therefore all men have an equal, natural and
unalienable right to the free exercise of religion according to the dictates
of conscience, and that no particular religious sect or society ought to be
favored or established by law in preference to others.

Amendments to the Federal Constitution recommended by Virginia.

I. That each State in the Union shall respectively retain every power,
jurisdiction, and right, which is not by this constitution delegated to the
congress of the United States, or to the departments of the federal government.

II. That there shall be one representative for every thirty thousand inhabitants,
according to the enumeration or census mentioned in the constitution,
until the whole number of representatives amounts to two hundred;
after which, that number shall be continued or increased as congress shall
direct, upon the principles fixed in the constitution, by apportioning the
representatives of each state to some greater number of people from time to
time, as population increases.

III. When congress shall lay direct taxes or excises, they shall immediately
inform the executive power of each state, of the quota of such state,
according to the census herein directed, which is proposed to be thereby
raised; and if the legislature of any state shall pass a law, which shall be
effectual for raising such quota, at the time required by congress the taxes
and excises laid by congress shall not be collected in such state.

IV. That the members of the senate and house of representatives shall
be ineligible to, and incapable of holding any civil office under the authority
of the United States, during the time for which they shall respectively
be elected.


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V. That the journals of the prodeedings of the senate and house of
representatives shall be published at least once in every year, except such
parts thereof, relating to treaties, alliances, or military operation, as, in their
judgment, require secrecy.

VI. That a regular statement and account of the receipts and expenditures
of all public money shall be published at least once in every year.

VII. That no commercial treaty shall be ratified without the concurrence
of two-thirds of the whole number of the members of the senate; and no
treaty, ceding, contracting, or restraining, or suspending the territorial
rights or claims of the United States, or any of them—or their, or any of
their rights or claims to fishing in the American seas, or navigating the
American rivers, shall be made, but in cases of the most urgent and extreme
necessity; nor shall any such treaty be ratified without the concurrence
of three-fourths of the whole number of members of both houses
respectively.

VIII. That no navigation laws or law, regulating commerce, shall be
passed without the consent of two-thirds of the members present in both
houses.

IX. That no standing army, or regular troops, shall be raised or kept
up in time of peace, without the consent of two-thirds of the members present
in both houses.

X. That no soldier shall be enlisted for any longer term than four years,
except in time of war, and then for no longer a term than the continuance
of the war.

XI. That each state respectively shall have the power to provide for
organizing, arming, and disciplining its own militia, whensoever congress
shall omit or neglect to provide for the same. That the militia shall not
be subject to martial law, except when in actual service, in time of war,
invasion or rebellion and when not in the actual service of the United
States, shall be subject only to such fines, penalties, and punishments as
shall be directed or inflicted by the laws of its own state.

XII. That the exclusive power of legislation given to congress over the
federal town and its adjacent district, and other places, purchased or to be
purchased by congress, of any of the states, shall extend only to such
regulations as respect the police and good government thereof.

XIII. That no person shall be capable of being President of the United
States for more than eight years in any term of sixteen years.

XIV. That the judicial power of the United States shall be vested in
one supreme court, and in such courts of admiralty, as congress may, from
time to time, ordain and establish in any of the different states: the judicial
power shall extend to all cases in law and equity, arising under treaties,
made, or which shall be made, under the authority of the United States;
to all cases affecting ambassadors, other foreign ministers and consuls; to
all cases of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; to controversies to which
the United States shall be a party; to controversies between two or more
states, and between parties claiming lands under the grants of different
states. In all cases affecting ambassadors, other foreign ministers and consuls,
and those in which a state shall be a party, the supreme court shall
have original jurisdiction; in all other cases before mentioned, the supreme
court shall have appellate jurisdiction, as to matters of law only: except
in cases of equity, and of admiralty and maritime jurisdiction; in which
the supreme court shall have appellate jurisdiction both as to law and fact,


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with such exceptions and under such regulations as the congress shall
make: but the judicial power of the United States shall extend to no case
where the cause of action shall have originated before the ratification of
this constitution; except in disputes between states about their territory;
disputes between persons claiming lands under the grants of different
states; and suits for debts due to the United States.

XV. That in criminal prosecutions, no man shall be restrained in the
exercise of the usual and accustomed right of challenging or excepting to
the jury.

XVI. That congress shall not alter, modify, or interfere in the times,
places, or manner of holding elections for senators and representatives, or
either of them, except when the legislature of any state shall neglect, refuse,
or be disabled by invasion or rebellion to prescribe the same.

XVII. That those clauses which declare that congress shall not exercise
certain powers, be not interpreted in any manner whatsover to extend
the power of congress; but that they be construed either as making exceptions
to the specified powers where this shall be the case, or otherwise as
inserted merely for greater caution.

XVIII. That the laws ascertaining the compensation of senators and
representatives for their services, be postponed in their operation, until after
the election of representatives immediately succeeding the passing thereof;
that excepted, which shall first be passed on the subject.

XIX. That some tribunal other than the senate be provided for trying
impeachments of senators.

XX. That the salary of a judge shall not be increased or diminished
during his continuance in office, otherwise than by general regulations of
salary, which may take place on a revision of the subject at stated periods
of not less than seven years, to commence from the time such salaries shall
be first ascertained by congress.

And the convention do, in the name and behalf of the people of this
commonwealth, enjoin it upon their representatives in congress, to exert
all their influence, and use all reasonable and legal methods to obtain a
ratification of the foregoing alterations and provisions in the manner provided
by the fifth article of the said constitution; and in all congressional
laws to be passed in the mean time, to conform to the spirit of these amendments
as far as the said constitution will admit.

Extract from the journal,
John Beckley, Clerk of Convention.


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A TABLE, exhibiting the Population of each State, Seats of Government, with their Population and distance from Washington, Governor's
Term and Salary, the number of Senators and Representatives, with their respective Terms and Pay.

                                                       
Seats of Government.  Governors.  Senators.  Representatives. 
STATES.  Population in 1830.  NAMES.  Distance from
Washington City. 
Population.  Term of Years.  Salary.  Term of Years.  Number.  Term of Years.  Number.  Total Senate and
Representatives. 
Pay per Day. 
Maine,  399,437  Augusta,  595  3,980  $1,500  20  153  173  $2 00 
New Hampshire,  269,328  Concord,  474  3,727  1,200  12  229  236  2 00 
Vermont,  280,657  Montpelier,  524  1,193  750  00  230  230  1 50 
Massachusetts,  610,408  Boston,  432  61,392  3,666  40  481  521  2 00 
Rhode Island,  97,199  Providence and  394  16,832  400  10  ½  72  82  1 50 
Newport,  403  8,010 
Connecticut,  297,675  Hartford and New Haven,  335  9,789  1,100  21  208  229  2 00 
10,678 
New York,  1,918,608  Albany,  376  24,209  4,000  32  128  160  3 00 
New Jersey,  320,323  Trenton,  166  3,925  2,000  14  50  64  3 00 
Pennsylvania,  1,348,233  Harrisburg,  110  4,311  4,000  33  100  133  3 00 
Delaware,  76,748  Dover,  114  1,200  1,333⅓  21  30  2 50 
Maryland,  447,040  Annapolis,  37  2,623  3,500  15  80  95  4 00 
Virginia,  1,211,405  Richmond,  122  16,060  3,333  32  134  166  4 00 
North Carolina,  737,987  Raleigh,  286  1,700  2,000  64  134  198  3 00 
South Carolina,  581,185  Columbia,  500  3,310  3,900  45  124  169  4 00 
Georgia,  516,823  Milledgeville,  642  1,599  3,000  78  142  220  4 00 
Alabama,  309,527  Tuscaloosa,  858  1,600  2,000  22  72  94  4 00 
Mississippi,  136,621  Jackson,  1,035  1,000  2,500  11  36  47  3 00 
Louisiana,  215,839  New Orleans,  1,203  46,310  7,500  17  50  67  4 00 
Tennessee,  681,904  Nashville,  714  5,566  2,000  20  60  80  4 00 
Kentucky,  687,917  Frankfort,  551  1,680  2,000  38  100  138  2 00 
Ohio,  935,884  Columbus,  396  2,487  1,200  36  72  108  3 00 
Indiana,  343,031  Indianapolis,  573  1,200  1,000  23  62  85  2 00 
Illinois,  157,445  Vandalia,  781  600  1,000  3 00 
Missouri,  140,455  Jefferson City,  980  600  1,500  18  49  66  3 00 

529

Page 529

A TABLE, exhibiting the Time of Election of State Officers, the Time of the meeting of the Legislatures, the mode of choosing Electors of President
and Vice-President, and the Number of Representatives in Congress, of the several States.

                                                   
STATES  Time of holding Elections.  Time of the meeting of the Legislature.  Electors of Pres and V. Pres chosen by  No. of Representatives
in
Congress. 
Maine,  2nd Monday in September.  1st Wednesday in January.  General Ticket 
New Hampshire,  2nd Tuesday in March.  1st Wednesday in June.  General Ticket 
Vermont,  1st Tuesday in September.  2nd Thursday in October.  General Ticket 
Massachusetts,  2nd Monday in November.  1st Wednesday in January.  General Ticket  12 
Rhode Island,  Gov. and Sen. in April.  1st Wednesday in May and June.  General Ticket 
Rep, in April and August.  Last Wednesday in Oct. and Jan. 
Connecticut,  1st Monday in April.  1st Wednesday in May.  General Ticket 
New York,  In October or November.  1st Tuesday in January.  General Ticket  40 
New Jersey,  2nd Tuesday in October.  4th Tuesday in October.  General Ticket 
Pennsylvania,  2nd Tuesday in October.  1st Tuesday in December.  General Ticket  28 
Delaware.  1st Tuesday in October.  1st Tuesday in January.  Legislature 
Maryland,  1st Monday in October.  Last Monday in December.  District 
Virginia,  In the month of April.  1st Monday in December.  General Ticket  21 
North Carolina,  Commonly in August.  2nd Monday in November.  General Ticket  13 
South Carolina,  2nd Monday in October.  4th Monday in November.  Legislature 
Georgia,  1st Monday in October.  1st Monday in November.  General Ticket 
Alabama,  1st Monday in August.  4th Monday in October.  General Ticket 
Mississippi,  1st Monday in August.  1st Monday in November.  General Ticket 
Louisiana,  1st Monday in July.  1st Monday in January.  General Ticket 
Tennessee,  1st Thursday in August.  3rd Monday in September,—bienn.  General Ticket  13 
Kentucky,  1st Monday in August.  1st Monday in November.  General Ticket  13 
Ohio,  2nd Tuesday in October.  1st Monday in December.  General Ticket  19 
Indiana,  1st Monday in August.  1st Monday in December.  General Ticket 
Illinois,  1st Monday in August.  1st Monday in December.—bienn.  General Ticket 
Missouri  1st Monday in August.  1st Monday in November,—bienn.  General Ticket 


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[52]

The section referred to is the eleventh.