University of Virginia Library

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH
OF THE
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA.

The District of Columbia[1] was ceded to the United States in
1790, by the states of Virginia and Maryland, and in 1800 the seat
of government was removed here from Philadelphia. Its site was
selected by George Washington, by authority from Congress, after
great research and observation, to become the metropolis of this
republic. It forms an exact square of 10 miles on a side, lying
upon both banks of the Potomac. The location being determined
upon, the first stone to mark its boundary was set in Jones's Point,
the uppermost cape of Hunting creek, April 15, 1791, in the presence
of a large concourse of spectators.

The District is divided into two counties. Washington county
is on the N. side of the Potomac, and includes Washington city and
Georgetown. Alexandria county is on the S. side of the Potomac,
and has the city of Alexandria. In the former, the laws of Maryland
continue in force; in the latter, those of Virginia. The
District has never been represented in the Congress of the United
States. Congress, however, makes what laws it pleases for both,
which meets annually on the first Monday of December, unless
otherwise provided by law.

The surface of the District is gently undulating, furnishing fine
sites for cities. The soil is naturally sterile, but it possesses a fine,
healthy climate. This District has become the centre of a considerable
and active commerce, though it cannot at all compete with
Baltimore, in its vicinity. Vessels of the largest class come up to
Alexandria, 6 miles below Washington, where the Potomac is a
mile wide, and from 30 to 50 feet deep; and vessels of a large
size come up to the U. S. Navy Yard, at the junction of the East
Branch with the Potomac, at Washington. A very considerable
quantity of flour, and other produce, comes down the Potomac,
and centres chiefly at Alexandria, and some at Georgetown. The
chief business of Washington city has relation to the accommodation
of the national legislature, and of the officers of the general
government. In 1800, the population was 14,093; in 1810, 24,023;
in 1820, 33,039; in 1830, 39,858; in 1840, 43,712, of which 30,657
were whites, 8,361 were free colored persons, and 4,694 were slaves.

The valley at the foot of Capitol Hill, washed by the Tiber creek,
it is stated on the authority of some of the early settlers, was periodically
visited by the Indians, who named it their fishing-ground,

in contradistinction to their hunting-ground; and that they assembled
there in great numbers in the spring months to procure fish.
Greenlief's Point was the principal camp, and the residence of
their chiefs, where councils were held among the various tribes
thus gathered there. The coincidence of the location of the
national legislatures so near the council-house of an Indian nation,
cannot fail to excite interesting reflections in intelligent minds.
It is highly probable that Washington was acquainted with this
tradition.

Washington City, the capital of the United States, is situated on
the E. side of the Potomac, 295 miles from the ocean, by the course
of the river and bay. It is 38 miles SW. from Baltimore; 136 from
Philadelphia; 225 from New York; 432 from Boston; 856 from
St. Louis; 544 from Charleston, S. C.; 662 from Savannah, Ga.;
1,203 from New Orleans. The population in 1800, was 3,210;
in 1810, 8,208; in 1820, 13,247; in 1830, 18,827; in 1840, 23,364;
in 1844, 30,429. Employed in commerce, 103; in manufactures
and trades, 886; navigating the ocean, 45; do. rivers and canals,
25; learned professions, 83.

The city stands on a point of land between the Potomac and the
Anacostia or Eastern branch. It contains a little over 8 square
miles, and upwards of 5,000 acres. The ground is, in general,
about 40 feet above the level of the river, and there are some
moderate elevations, on two of which stand the Capitol and the
President's house. The city is regularly laid out in streets running
north and south, and crossed by others at right angles, running
east and west. But the different parts of the city are connected
by broad avenues, which traverse the rectangular divisions diagonally.
Where the intersection of these avenues with each other
and with the streets would form many acute angles, considerable
rectangular or circular open grounds are left, which, when the city
shall be built up, will give it an open appearance. The avenues
and streets leading to public places are from 120 to 160 feet wide,
and the other streets are from 70 to 110 feet wide. The avenues
are named after the states of the Union, and the other streets,
beginning at the capitol, are denoted by the letters of the alphabet,
as A. north and A. south, B. north and B. south, &c.; and east and
west, they are designated by numbers, as 1st east, 1st west, &c.
Pennsylvania avenue, between the capitol and the president's
house, contains the most dense population, and is much the finest
street in the city. Five of the avenues radiate from the capitol,
and five others from the president's house, giving these prominent
places the most ready communication with all parts of
the city. The buildings of Washington consist of scattered clusters;
nor is it probable that the magnificent plan of the city will
soon be built up, although it has greatly increased within the last
few years. Three things are requisite to sustain a large city, one
of which, it is to be hoped, will never be found in the United States.
There must be extensive commerce, or manufactures, or an expensive

and luxurious court, with the multitudes which a luxurious
court draws around it, to expend their money. This last constitutes
a great item in the support of some European cities. Washington
cannot be expected to become a very great commercial or manufacturing
place; and though the chief men of the government,
and the national legislature, and the multitudes whom they draw
around them, do much towards the prosperity of Washington, the
money thus expended is too small in amount to constitute a main
reliance of a large city. Baltimore, in the vicinity, will be likely
to surpass Washington in commerce and manufactures, for a long
time to come. The growth of Washington, however, has been
considerably extensive, and it is continually increasing; and
probably the bustle of a large city would not much improve it as
a seat for the national congress. It enjoys the two important
requisites for health, pure air and good water; and there is much
elegant and refined society, rendering it a pleasant place of residence.

The Capitol at Washington.

The public buildings of Washington have a splendor becoming
a great nation. The Capitol is probably the finest senate-house in
the world, and it is fit that the most august legislative assembly
on earth should be thus accommodated. The ground on which
the capitol stands is elevated 73 feet above the level of the tide,
and affords a commanding view of the different parts of the city,
and of the surrounding country. The building, which is of freestone,
covers an area of more than an acre and a half; the length
of the front is 352 feet, including the wings; the depth of the
wings is 121 feet. The centre building is surmounted by a lofty
dome; and there are 2 less elevated domes, one towards each end.
A projection on the east or main front, including the steps, is 65
feet wide; and another on the west front, with the steps, is 83 feet
wide. In the projection on the east front, there is a noble portico
of 22 lofty Corinthian columns; and in the west front there is a
portico of 10 Corinthian columns. The height of the building to
the top of the dome is 120 feet. Under the dome in the middle of

the building is the rotunda, a circular room 95 feet in diameter,
and of the same height, adorned with sculptures, representing in
relief Smith delivered by Pocahontas, the Pilgrims landing at Plymouth,
Penn treating with the natives, and a fight of Boone with
the Indians; and 4 magnificent paintings by Trumbull, with figures
as large as life, representing the presentation to Congress of the
Declaration of Independence, the capture of Burgoyne, the surrender
of Cornwallis, and Washington resigning his commission to
Congress. Another painting, the baptism of Pocahontas, by
Chapman, has recently been added. The rotunda has recently
received a splendid additional ornament in Greenough's statue of
Washington, a colossal figure in a sitting posture, twice as large
as life. On the west of the rotunda is the library-room of Congress,
92 feet by 34, and is 36 feet in height, containing, in arched
alcoves, 20,000 volumes. In the second story of the south wing
of the capitol, is the hall of the House of Representatives, of a
semicircular form, 96 feet long and 60 high, with a dome supported
by 24 beautiful columns of variegated marble from the
Potomac, with capitals of Italian marble, of the Corinthian order.
The circular wall is surrounded by a gallery for men, and the
chord of the arc, back of the speaker's chair, has a gallery for the
ladies. The room is ornamented with some fine statuary and paintings,
and the whole furniture of it is elegant. The Senate chamber
is in the second story of the north wing of the capitol, and is
semicircular like that of the Representatives, but smaller, being
75 feet long and 45 feet high. The vice-president's chair is canopied
by a rich crimson drapery, held by the talons of a hovering
eagle. A gallery of light bronze running round the arc in front
of the vice-president's chair, is mainly appropriated to ladies.
There is another gallery above and behind the chair, supported by
fine Ionic columns of variegated marble. A magnificent chandelier
hangs in the centre of the room, and the whole appearance
and furniture of the room are splendid. Below the Senate chamber,
and of nearly the same form and dimensions, but much less
elegant, is the room of the Supreme Court of the United States;
and there are in the building 70 rooms for the accommodation of
committees and officers of Congress. The grounds around the
capitol are spacious, containing 22 acres, highly ornamented with
gravelled walks, shrubbery, and trees, a naval monument ornamented
with statuary, and fountains, and the whole is enclosed by
a handsome iron railing. The whole cost of the building has
exceeded $2,000,000.

The President's house, a mile and a half NW. from the Capitol,
is an elegant edifice of freestone, 2 stories high, with a lofty basement,
and is 170 feet long, and 86 wide, the N. front of which is
ornamented with a fine portico of 4 lofty Ionic columns, projecting
with 3 columns. The outer intercolumniation is for carriages to
drive under, to place company under shelter. It stands in the centre
of a plat of ground of 20 acres, beautifully laid out and highly

WASHINGTON.

ornamented. It is elevated 44 feet above tide-water, and the
southern front presents a grand and beautiful prospect. The apartments
within are admirably fitted to their purpose, and splendidly

U. S. Treasury, Washington.

furnished. On the E. side of the President's house are two large
buildings, and on the W. side two large buildings for the departments
of State, of the Treasury, of War, and of the Navy. The
General Post-Office and the Patent-Office are also extensive buildings.

The General Post-Office, Washington.

These, with the new Treasury building, have been recently
erected, to supply the place of those which were burned a few
years since. The new Treasury building contains 150 rooms, and
when completed, will contain 250. It has a splendid colonnade,
457 feet in length. The General Post-Office contains about 80
rooms, and is of the Corinthian order, with columns and pilasters,
on a rustic base. The Patent-Office, in addition to other spacious
apartments, has one room in the upper story 275 feet by 65, and
when completed by wings, according to the original design, will

The Patent-Office, Washington.

be upwards of 400 feet in length. It is considered one of the most
splendid rooms in America, and is devoted to the grand and increasing
collections of the national institution. The portico of
this building is of the same extent as that of the Parthenon, at
Athens, consisting of 16 columns, in double rows, 50 feet high. In
the war-office was formerly kept the fine collection of Indian portraits,
painted from the original heads by King. These valuable
pictures are now in the custody, and adorn the collections of the
national institution, in the patent-office.

The Navy Yard is on the Eastern branch, about three-fourths of
a mile SE. of the Capitol, and contains 27 acres. It has houses for
the officers, and shops and warehouses, and 2 large ship-houses, a
neat armory, and every kind of naval stores. Several ships of
war, some of which were of the largest class, have been built at
this yard. There are also in the city an Arsenal, a City Hall, an
Hospital, a Penitentiary, a Theatre, &c.

Washington is separated from Georgetown by Rock creek, over
which are 2 bridges. A substantial pile bridge, over a mile in
length, crosses the Potomac, and leads to Alexandria. There is a
bridge, also, over the Anacostia, or Eastern branch. This river
has water of sufficient depth for frigates to ascend to the navy
yard, without being lightened. Vessels requiring 14 feet of water
can come up to the Potomac bridge. By means of the Chesapeake
and Ohio canal, a communication is opened with a rich back country;
and it may be expected that the commerce of Washington
will increase. The Washington canal is a continuation of this
canal through the city. It extends from the Chesapeake and Ohio

canal, at 17th street, west, to which it is connected by a lock at
that street, to the Eastern branch. The canal and all the basins are
walled with stone on both sides. From 17th to 14th street, is a
spacious basin, 500 feet wide; from 14th to 6th street, where there
is another ample basin, its width is 150 feet; and from 6th street
to its termination in the Eastern branch, its width varies from 45
to 80 feet; and its depth is 4 feet below tide throughout. At its
eastern termination is another spacious basin and wharf, which
extends to the channel. This canal has been greatly neglected,
and is much out of repair. The expense of this canal has been
over $230,000.

There were in the city in 1840, 106 stores, cap. $926,040; 6 lumber
yards, cap. $57,000; precious metals manufactured to the
amount of $13,000; various other metals $17,300; 2 tanneries,
cap. $2,000; 1 brewery, cap. $63,000; 2 potteries, cap. $3,250; 1
ropewalk, 1 grist m., 11 printing offices, 9 binderies, 3 daily, 5
weekly, 5 semi-weekly newspapers, and 3 periodicals, cap. $149,500;
30 brick and stone, and 23 wooden houses built, cost $86,910. Total
cap. in manufac. $336,275.

The Columbian College was incorporated by an act of Congress
in 1821. It is delightfully situated on elevated ground N. of the
President's house, about two and a half miles from the Capitol.
The buildings are a college edifice, 5 stories high, including the
basement and the attic, having 48 rooms for students, with 2 dormitories
attached to each, 2 dwelling-houses for professors, and a
philosophical hall, all of brick. It has a medical department attached.
The Medical College is situated at the corner of 10th and
E streets, at equal distances from the Capitol and the President's
house. In the several departments are a president, 10 professors,
and in the college proper, about 25 students. There are about
4,200 books in its libraries. The commencement is on the first
Wednesday of October. The whole number of alumni is 97. It
is under the direction of the Baptists.

There were in the city in 1840, 12 academies, with 609 students,
9 primary and common schools, with 380 scholars.

The National Institution for the Promotion of Science, was organized
in May, 1840. The President of the United States is
patron; the heads of departments constitute 6 directors on the part
of the government, and 6 literary and scientific gentlemen are directors
on the part of the institution. Its stated monthly meetings
are held in the patent-office building. Its collections are deposited
in the grand hall of this building, 275 feet long, and 65 feet wide,
and constitute a rapidly increasing scientific museum. The United
States exploring expedition has added largely to its curiosities.
The Historical Society and the Columbian Institute have united
with it, with their libraries and collections. They have a valuable
mineralogical cabinet. It is proposed to bring out regularly volumes
of transactions. If properly fostered, it may become an
honor to the nation. The Union Literary Society has been in existence

for many years, and holds a weekly discussion in the lecture
room of the medical college, and is well attended. Sectarian religion
and party politics are excluded from its discussions. The
City Library contains about 6,000 volumes.

The city contains 21 places of worship, of which the Presbyterians
have 4, the Episcopalians 3, the Baptists 3, the Methodists
3, Protestant do. 1, Roman Catholics 3, the Africans 2, and the
Unitarians and Friends 1 each.

There are 2 orphan asylums. There are 3 banks, with an aggregate
capital of $1,500,000; and 2 insurance companies, with an
aggregate capital of $450,000.

This city was fixed on as the future seat of the government in
accordance with the suggestion of the great man whose name it
bears, and the ground on which it stands was ceded to the United
States in December, 1788. The owners of the land gave one half
of it, after deducting streets and public squares, to the United
States to defray the expenses of the public buildings. Such
grounds as should be wanted by the United States was to be paid
for at the rate of $66 66 cents per acre. It was laid out by 3
commissioners, in 1791, and surveyed under the direction of Andrew
Ellicot. The seat of the federal government was removed
to this place in 1800. The north wing of the Capitol was commenced
in 1793, and finished in 1800, at an expense of $480,202.
The south wing was commenced in 1803, and finished in 1808, at
an expense of $308,808. The centre building was commenced in
1818, and finished in 1827, at an expense of $957,647. In August,
1814, Washington was captured by the British, under Gen. Ross,
who set fire to the Capitol, the President's house, and the public
offices, with the exception of the patent-office, which was saved
by the solicitation of its superintendent. The library of Congress
was burned, and was afterwards replaced by the purchase of that
of Mr. Jefferson, consisting of 7,000 volumes, for $23,000, in
1815.

The congressional burial-ground is in the eastern section of
Washington, about a mile and a half from the Capitol, and contains
about 10 acres of ground, near the Eastern branch. The
grounds are tastefully laid out and neatly kept. It has already
received a number of distinguished men, and has some fine monuments,
and a vault in which bodies are placed that are awaiting a
removal.

The following are inscriptions from monuments in this yard.
Those in columns are members of Congress, and include those
interred up to the year 1844:

Georgetown is in Washington county, on the NE. bank of the
Potomac, 2 miles from Washington city, from which it is separated
by Rock creek, over which are two bridges. It was originally laid
out under an act of the colonial assembly of Maryland, passed
May 15th, 1751. In 1789, the town was incorporated.

The situation is pleasant, commanding a fine view of the Potomac
River, the city of Washington, and of the adjacent country;
and it contains many elegant buildings and country seats. It has
4 banks, a market-house, 7 churches—2 Episcopal, 2 Methodist, 1
Presbyterian, 1 Roman Catholic, and 1 colored Methodist—and a
Roman Catholic college, with 2 spacious brick edifices, finely situated,
founded in 1789, which has a president and 16 professors, or
other instructors, 90 alumni, 135 students, and 22,000 volumes in
its libraries. The commencement is near the last of July. It was
authorized by Congress, in 1815, to confer degrees. There is also
a nunnery, called the Convent of Visitation, founded in 1798,
which contains from 50 to 70 nuns, attached to which is a large
female academy, which generally contains 100 young ladies, instructed
by the nuns. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal commences
at this place, which is designed to be extended to the Ohio
River, and which has been recently continued to Alexandria. The
aqueduct which connects the canal with Alexandria is a most stupendous
work. The piers, nine in number, are built of granite, and
imbedded 17 feet in the bottom of the river, with a foundation upon
solid rock, so as to withstand the shock of the spring ice, which, rushing
furiously from the stormy regions of the falls and narrows above,
passes with almost resistless force against the bridges of the Potomac,
sweeping every thing before it. These piers, built in the
most masterly manner, will bear up against any force that may
be brought against them. There were in 1840, 7 commercial and
2 commission houses, capital $310,000; 23 retail stores, capital
$247,400; 2 lumber yards, capital $20,000; 2 tanneries, 1 printing-office,
1 semi-weekly newspaper, 1 flouring-mill, producing
10,500 barrels annually; 1 saw-mill. Capital in manufac. $154,700.
Six academies, 484 students; 9 schools, 435 scholars. Pop. in
1810, 4,948; 1820, 7,360; 1830, 8,441; 1840, 7,312. Tonnage of
the port, 9,964.

Alexandria, originally called Belhaven, is on the western bank
of the Potomac, near the head of tide-water, 6 miles south of
Washington. The town lies principally in the District of Columbia,
but a small part of it is in Virginia. It was incorporated in
1779, by the state of Virginia, and that part of it within the District
ceded to the general government in 1801. The laws of Virginia,
previously ceded, remain in force in the town and county.

Alexandria is very handsomely situated. The streets are laid
out on the plan of Philadelphia, crossing each other at right angles,
and are generally well paved. It is considered remarkably
healthy, and the view from the city is very fine. The town is
situated in the bottom of a valley, which to the eye of an observer
is terminated in every direction by lofty and verdant hills. To the
north he sees the city of Washington,—the capitol with its beautiful
columns, white walls, and towering dome, forming a most
conspicuous object; to the south, the broad translucent expanse
of the Potomac opens upon him, with Fort Washington, lying like
a white line on its distant margin, opposite to Mount Vernon.

The river opposite to the town is a mile in breadth, and varies
from 34 to 52 feet in depth, in the ship channel, which here washes
the shore,—of course the harbor is naturally very fine, and it has
been much improved by the erection of large and commodious
wharves.

The population in 1800, was 4,196; in 1810, 7,227; in 1820,
8,218; in 1840, 8,459. The public buildings are a court-house,
and 10 churches—2 Presbyterian, 2 Episcopal, 2 Methodist, 1 Baptist,
1 Friends, 1 colored Methodist, and 1 Roman Catholic. The
city has considerable shipping, and exports wheat, Indian corn, and
tobacco, to a considerable amount. The tonnage of the port in
1840, was 14,470. The Chesapeake and Ohio canal extends to
this place, and may be expected to add to its prosperity. It has 2
banks, with an aggregate capital of $1,000,000; and 1 fire, and 1
marine insurance company. It is governed by a mayor, and a
common council of 16 members.

About three miles from Alexandria, in Fairfax county, is the
Virginia Theological Seminary, an institution founded in 1822, by
the Protestant Episcopal Church of the diocese of Virginia. The
bishop of the diocese, the Right Rev. William Meade, D. D., is
president of the faculty. It has 4 professors, 53 students, and a
library of about 4,000 volumes.

An interesting incident occurred at Alexandria in the life of
Washington. It is given below, as it has often been published:

When Col. Washington was stationed at Alexandria, in 1754,
there was an election for members of the Assembly, when Mr.
W. Payne opposed the candidate supported by Washington. In
the course of the contest, Washington grew warm, and said something
offensive to Mr. Payne, who, at one blow, extended him on
the ground. The regiment heard that their colonel was murdered
by the mob, and they were soon under arms, and in rapid motion
to the town to inflict punishment on the supposed murderers. To
their great joy he came out to meet them, thanking them for such
a proof of attachment, but conjuring them by their love for him
and their duty, to return peaceably to their barracks. Feeling
himself to be the aggressor, he resolved to make honorable reparation.
Early next morning he wrote a polite note to Mr. Payne,
requesting to see him at the tavern. Payne repaired to the place

appointed, in expectation of a duel; but what was his surprise to
see wine and glasses in lieu of pistols. Washington rose to meet
him, and smiling as he offered his hand, began, "Mr. Payne, to err
is nature; to rectify error is glory. I believe I was wrong yesterday;
you have already had some satisfaction, and if you deem
that sufficient, here is my hand—let us be friends." An act of
such sublime virtue produced its proper effect, and Mr. Payne
was from that moment an enthusiastic admirer of Washington.