University of Virginia Library

SAN MARINO.

The ancient Via Emilia is still designated by an excellent
road which crosses Romagna in the direction of
the Adriatic. It traverses an extensive tract of fertile
land, chiefly laid out in vineyards. As we passed through
this rich and level country, the occasional appearance of
a team drawn by a pair of beautiful grey oxen and loaded
with a reeking butt of new wine, proclaimed that it
was the season of vintage. But autumn was not less pleasingly
indicated, by the clusters of purple grapes suspended
from cane-poles at almost every cottage-window, and by
the yellow and crimson leaves of the vines, that waved
gorgeously in the sun as far as the eye could reach, like
garlands with which departing summer had decorated the
fields in commemoration of the rich harvest she had
yielded. The single companion who shared with me the
open carriage so well adapted for such a jaunt, was a

large landed proprietor in the neighboring district, and,
being quite familiar with every nook and feature of the
surrounding country, he endeavored to amuse me by
pointing out all objects of interest with which we came
in view. Here was a little chapel under whose walls a
notorious thief concealed an immense treasure, and when
the term of his imprisonment had expired, returned and
disinterred it. There was the Devil's bridge, so called
because it is said to have been built in a single night.
This veteran beggar, distinguished from the mendicant
group of the village by the erect air of his emaciated
figure, was a soldier under Napoleon, and has now roamed
back to his native town, to live on the casual alms of
the passing traveller; while that stout and well-clad man
who succeeded, with the loss of a thumb, in arresting a
formidable bandit, is living snugly on a pension. The
shallow stream over which we are now passing is believed
to be the Rubicon. You gay contadina with large silver
ear-rings, whose laugh we hear from the chaise behind, is
a bride on her way from church; and that white and
flower-decked crib which a peasant is carrying into his
cottage, is the bier of a child. It was only at long intervals
that the agreeable though monotonous scenery was
varied to the view, and within the precincts of the towns
scarcely a single pleasing object could the eye detect, to
counteract the too obvious evidences of human misery.
In all the Papal villages, indeed, the same scene is presented.
At every gate the traveller is dunned for his
passport by an Austrian guard, whose mustaches and cold
northern visage are as out of place in so sunny a region,
as would be an orange-grove amid the sands of Cape
Cod, or annoyed by the wretched inheritor of one of
the noblest of ancient titles—a Roman soldier, clad in a
loose, brown, shaggy coat, who after keeping him an hour
to spell out credentials which have been read a score of
times since he entered the territory, has the effrontery to
ask for a few biocchi to drink his health at the nearest
wine-shop. When, at length, one is allowed to enter and
hurry through the dark, muddy streets, no sign of enterprize
meets the gaze, but a barber's basin dangling from
some doorway, a crowd collected around a dealer in vegetables,
or, if it be a festa, a company of strolling circus-riders,
decked out in tawdry finery, cantering round to
collect an audience for the evening. No activity is
manifested, except by the vetturini who run after the carriage,
vociferating for employment, and the paupers who
collect in a dense crowd to impede its progress. In the
midst of such tokens of degradation, planted in the centre
the square, rises a statue of some pope or archbishop in
bronze or marble, with tall mitre and outstretched arm;
and, as if to demonstrate the imbecility of the weakest
and most oppressive of Italian governments, around the
very pedestal are grouped more improvidents than would
fill a hospital, and idle, reckless characters enough to corrupt
an entire community. There is something peculiarly
provoking in the appearance of these ugly, graceless
statues, which are so ostentatiously stuck up in every
town throughout the Pontifical states—the emblem of a
ruinous and draining system, which has reduced these
naturally fertile localities to their present wretchedness,
towering, as it were, above the misery it has occasioned.
The inclined head, and arm extended as if in the act of
blessing, is a benignant, humble posture, in ridiculous
contrast to the surly soldiery and countless mendicants,
who seem to constitnte the legitimate subjects of Papal
favor. Rimini is one of the most ancient of these appendages
to the Roman states, and boasts of a few antiquities,
with which the traveller can beguile an hour,
while some of the excellent fish fromthe adjacent bay, are
preparing for his supper. Upon the principal piazza, a
large palace, which presents nothing without but a broad
front of mutilated brick-work, and within is newly fitted
up in modern style, is pointed out as the former dwelling
of Francesca di Rimini, whose singularly melancholy story
constitutes the most beautiful episode of Dante's Inferno,
has been dramatized by Silvio Pellico, and forms the subject
of one of Leigh Hunt's most graphic poems. If the
visitor endeavors to recall to his mind the knightly splendor
which, at that epoch, the scene before him presented,
and a strain of martial music swell upon the air as if to
aid his fancy, the illusion is quickly dispelled when, instead
of a company of gallant courtiers, an Austrian regiment
in plain uniform winds in view, marching from
the parade ground to their quarters. On a fine October
morning, I resolved to escape awhile from scenes thus
darkened by despotism, and make an excursion to a spot
still hallowed by the presence of freedom. The approach
to San Marino is through a pleasant and fertile country,
and a small bridge indicates the line which divides the
republican territory from Rimini. After crossing this
boundary, the road becomes more hilly, and the aspect of
the surrounding fields more variegated, displaying numerous
small oaks and elms, clumps of olive trees, and
patches of yellow cane. In many spots, well clad and
hardy looking women were breaking the glebes in the
newly-ploughed land, to prepare it for the reception of
grain or vines. Nothing can be more picturesque than
the site of the town. It is built upon the summit of a
hill which presents an almost perpendicular cliff to the approaching
traveller, the rocky face of which is relieved by
a grove of chesnuts whose autumn-tinted leaves waved in
umbrageous masses among the grey stones. As we
draw near, it struck me as a most appropriate eyry for the
“mountain nymph, sweet liberty.” The very air seemed
instinct with freedom, and every step along the winding
road to bring us to a region of more elevated and
bracing influences. As we thus approach, let us trace
the history of a spot which, amid the countless vicissitudes
that involved in ruin every other community in
Italy, preserved through so many centuries, the name and
privileges of a republic.

The remarkable mountain upon which the town of San
Marino is built, was anciently called Titano, perhaps in
reference to certain gigantic bones found buried there,
but more probably in allusion to its isolated position
as if thrown on the plain by one the fabulous giants
of antiquity. It retained this primitive appellation until
the ninth century. On one side, it presents a beautiful
line of hills rising in picturesque gradation, and on the
other, a dissevered cliff surmounted by an abrupt wall of

rock. The soil is argillaceous and abounds in sulphur,
petrified shells and valuable mineral springs, some of
which enjoy considerable celebrity for their sanative qualities
among the inhabitants of the surrounding districts.
This spot thus favored by nature, might have remained
unknown to fame, had not a certain Dalmatian by the
name of Marino, a lapidary, come to Rimini, and having
occasion to visit Titano, where he discovered abundant
materials for his art, found it no less adapted to afford a
retreat from persecution and a fit retirement for a tranquil,
free, and religious life. Favored by the archbishop of
Rimini, he established himself on the mountain, and was
resorted to on account of his benevolence and piety, till
the number of the faithful who became attached to the
place induced the formation of a settlement and the erection
of a church. Marino was believed to work miracles,
and soon became renowned. By the eleventh century,
agreeable to the universal system of defensive structures
forming throughout Italy, the republic was in a measure
fortified by the rearing of a castle. The zeal of the people
in effecting this object is no small evidence of their attachment
to freedom, which is not less signally indicated
by the remarkable and at that period unique inscription
placed upon their church—DIVO. MARINO. PATRONO. ET
LIBERTATIS AUCTORI. During the succeeding age, in
consequence of the increasing population, the inhabitants
of Il Castello, as the summit was called, divided, a portion
descending to the first table land now called Il Borgo.
About this time, rose into power some of those mighty
families who so long and fiercely tyrannized over Italy.
From its very infancy, the republic was surrounded by
these despotic rivals, especially the Feltreschi, Malatesti
and Faggiuoli, and, although frequently involved in
the most trying dilemmas, preserved its love of liberty
and its actual independence. In the twelfth century, when
the warfare between the adherents of the Emperor and the
Pope, convulsed the Italian states, although San Marino
was in a much happier condition to enjoy the benefits for
which some contended in the struggle, it was long before
the demon of faction invaded the peaceful precincts of
the republic. The archbishop Ugolino gave the spirit of
party, birth. He was a violent Ghibelline. His ardor in
the cause attached many to him, and when the people
subsequently purchased of the neighboring barons land to
accommodate their increasing population, he succeeded
by means of priestly influence, in becoming a distinct
party in the contract, evidently with a view to obtain
some feudal authority and join temporal to spiritual power.
Thesame attempt was made, on a similar occasion, by his
successor. The inhabitants were well identified with the
Ghibelline party, and when it was overthrown in Romagna,
afforded a secure asylum to its members and most
illustrious leader in that region. Toward the close of
the century, while Hildebrand reigned, Teodorico, the
bishop, proceeded to levy certain church tributes upon all
the provinces, including San Marino. Upon the republicans
asserting their independence, an examination of
their claims to the distinction resulted in his withdrawing
the demand, and acknowledging by a public decree, the
entire liberty of the republic. This is one of the earliest
recorded testimonies to the original liberty of San Marino,
and is the more remarkable from having occurred at a
period when the authority of the church was so profoundedly
reverenced, and her officers so unwearied and importunate
in their exactions. A like attempt to impose taxes
was made soon after by the neighboring podestas, and
upon a similar refusal being returned by the republic, the
subject was referred to a solemn trial, according to the
practice of the times. At this examination, it appears
that not only were the facts of their history questioned,
but the leading men catechized even upon the metaphysical
basis of their rights, being asked “what is liberty?” and
sundry other abstract problems; but their historian, with
characteristic partiality perhaps, declares that the honest
republicans were not in the least puzzled or confounded,
but exhibited an extraordinary strength and clearness of
purpose, as well as a singular unanimity of feeling, on
this memorable occasion. The result, however, was a
declaration against them, and a formal assertion of the
right to tax on the part of the church and other authorities.
Whether this right was ever enforced is very doubtful, but
from the endeavor never being repeated, the inference is
that the parties either from respect to the people or from
motives of policy, were content with merely asserting
their claims. The simple majesty of its political character
seems to have proved remarkably efficacious, even at
this early period, in securing for San Marino a degree of
consideration wholly disproportionate to its diminutive
size.

Early in the fourteenth century, the supreme magistrate's

title of Consul was changed to that of Captain or
Defender, and because of the abuse of the latter in Italy,
the former was ultimately alone retained. At this period
commenced a series of difficulties with Rimini, induced
by clashing interests and rival jealousies. The
annalist of the epoch is at great pains to show, that the
connection between the various powerful families of the
neighboring territory and the republic, was simply a mutual
league implying no subjection. This assertion is
confirmed by the singular fidelity manifested by the
people towards friendly barons. The threat of excommunication
failed to make them abandon a certain feudal
lord, who fled to their citadel to escape the vengeance of
Pope John. It is proved also, by several existing documents,
that their relations with the Feltreschi and other
distinguished families who have been supposed to have
exercised feudal authority over San Marino, were merely
those of friendly alliance. Thus they appear to have
been wholly exempt from temporal dominion, and as to
spiritual, the assumption of cardinal Andrimini, in 1368,
was withdrawn by solemn decree, and the bishop obliged
to disclaim publicly any intention of seeking authority.
Soon after, a more insidious enemy to the republic arose
in one of its own citizens, Giacomo Pelizzaro, who plotted
with the Podesta of Brescia and the archbishop of
Montefeltre; to deliver San Marino into their hands.
His plan was happily discovered before its execution.
He confessed and suffered death as a traitor.

During the succeeding era of private and bloody feuds,
San Marino, allied to Count Guido, was more fortunate

than the rest of Italy in escaping the dangers of this and
other alliances, by means of which, teachery or the exigencies
of the times could have so easily procured the republic's
ruin. A war with Sigismondi Pandolfo, Signore
of Rimini, ended in his downfall and an increase of their
territory, attested to them in 1463. Now, too, we find
the alliance of the little state sought by the larger and superior
principalities of Italy, a fact only to be accounted
for by the reputation it enjoyed for the character of its
institutions. In 1491, during one of those fitful intervals
of peace which occasionally blessed that age of war and
turbulence, among the meliorations of the civil code, we
find statues enforcing the immediate payment of public
debts, the proclamation of criminal sentences, the obligation
of the captains to procure as far as possible treaties
of peace and good fellowship, and prohibiting the flogging
of children under four years of age. At this time, some
of the warriors from San Marino gained much renown in
the battles of the age, and several men of distinguished
talents arose, among whom were two of the earliest commentators
of Dante. The republic appears to have been
singularly favored in her diplomatic agents. Her ambassadors
were most wisely selected, and to the firmness
and wisdom which marked their proceedings is to be ascribed
the almost miraculous escape of the state from embroilments
with other powers, and accounts, in no small
degree, for the remarkable esteem she gained in Italy.
A most dangerous era for San Marino was the time of the
infamous Cæsar Borgia, and for a limited space she
placed herself under the protection of the Duca del Valentino.
Continuing, however, to enjoy the amity of the illustrious
house of Urbino, she maintained to an almost
incredible extent, the favor of the church, and afforded a refuge,
often at great risk, to the many persecuted victims of
all parties. The spirit of faction and the priestly pretensions
which have ever been the bane of the Italian states,
too soon, however, induced a fatal dereliction from the
primitive patriotism and honest attachment to freedom.
Another cause of this decline, may be found in the influence
of some of those who sought an asylum within the limits
of San Marino. Refugees from all parties, they naturally
brought and disseminated much of the perverse and exciting
spirit of the times, among the less sophisticated inhabitants.
For these and other reasons, the commencement
of the seventeenth century found the people more
exposed than they had been to the subjection which the
agents of the Romish church so constantly and insidiously
endeavored to effect. An intriguer, according to history,
combining all the low cunning, ambition and ready
talent necessary to promote this object, soon appeared.
Alberoni being legate in Romagna, undertook to befriend
certain men who were suffering under the just awards of
the tribunal of San Marino. The republic, from the deep
conviction of the bad results produced by allowing justice
to be impeded by priestly intervention and commenditizie,
which custom had been grossly abused at that period,
made rigid enactments against it; notwithstanding which,
the haughty prelate insisted upon the privilege. The republicans
vainly explained and remonstrated; yet boldly
maintained their rights. Alberoni, by way of revenge,
caused certain of their citizens to be imprisoned in Rimini,
and by cutting off their communication with the surrounding
country endeavored to produce a famine. At the
same time, his efforts were unremitted to seduce the most
ill-disposed of the citizens, and he succeeded in securing
the cöoperation of many traitorous abettors. Misrepresenting
them to the Pope and sacred college, and abusing
the authority vested in him by the pontiff, he artfully induced
that ruler to exert a special commission in his favor,
and under its shield endeavored to annex San Marino,
as forfeited, to the papal territory. At length, every
thing being prepared for the consummation of his vile
project, on the twenty-fourth of October, 1739, attended
by a band of his satellites, he passed through the Borgo,
and was even cheered by some of the infatuated citizens.
He entered the sacred temple dedicated to Liberty and
their Saint, where he smoothed over with subtle words
the nefariousness of his scheme; and Capitano Giangi
thus acknowledged his concurrence: “Nel dì primo di
Ottobre giurai fedeltà al mio legittimo principe della Republica
di San Marino; quel giuramento confermo e cosi
giuro.” Giuseppe Onofri repeated the same oath; but, Girolamo
Gori using the words of the Saviour—“let this cup
pass from me”—protested that he had not made one mark
of shame upon the face of the protecting saint, but would ever
exclaim “Evviva San Marino, evviva la Liberta!” These
words uttered with enthusiasm, were caught and repeated,
until they resounded through the holy edifice, re-awakening
the dormant patriotism of the people and striking fear into
the heart of the usurper. The functions were abruptly
closed and a scene of disorder ensued. Before Alberoni
left the church, he threatened the rebellious with death.
The faithful remained to concert measures for the safety
of their country. Perceiving that an immediate appeal
to force would be useless, they determined to represent the
case to the Pope and calmly await the result, meantime
using every means to reanimate the drooping spirit of
their fellow-citizens. Notwithstanding the age and imbecility
of Clement XII., he was just and benevolent,
and upon being informed of the facts, indignantly declared
that he had vested no authority in the legate to attempt obtaining
any ascendancy over the people of San Marino,
nor to interfere with their rights—but simply to exert a
spiritual influence and protection. To contravene the
base assumption of Alberoni, he despatched Monsignor
Napolitano, afterwards Cardinal, with power to re-establish
the good fame of the papal court, and secure justice to the
people. Between the usurpation of Alberoni and the restitution
of the republic, there was, however, an interregnum
of three months and a half. San Marino was restored
on the fifth of February, the day of the sacred virgin
Agatha. Shouts, prayers, tears of joy, and jubilee
in every form, announced the happy event; and the day
has since been observed as a festival. Alberoni's defence
of his conduct gave rise to some curious literary discussion.
The event redounded to the improvement of
the people, operating as an effectual check upon the passion
for intrigue, and to the honor of Clement, to whom
a monument was erected by the grateful republicans.

When the modern conqueror of Europe drew near the

confines of the small but honored state, he respected its
liberties. Receiving most graciously the ambassadors
from San Marino, in an elegant address, he alluded to the
singular preservation of their freedom, and promised his
protection; at the same time offering to enlarge their possessions,
and tendering, as an indication of his respect
and good will, a present of two field-pieces. Monge, the
ambassador, made an eloquent reply, gratefully acknowledging
the courtesy of Napoleon and applauding his forbearance.
The people declined his offers and present;
but in commemoration of the occasion, added the 12th of
February, 1797, as another joyous anniversary, to the republic's
calendar.

The original government was simply paternal. The
laws sprang from necessity, were improved by experience,
and modified from time to time, according to the circumstances
and wants of the people. Two captains, one from
the signors and one from the citizens at large, are elected
every six months. No individual can be re-elected
oftener than once in three years. Thus all deserving the
honor, serve in turn. No prejudice exists with respect
to age, very young men being frequently chosen when of
great promise or proved worth. It is only indispensable
that the captains should be natives of the republic. The
legislative body consists of a council of seventy and
another of twelve. A judicial magistrate is also elected
triennially by the council. The state includes a circuit
of twenty-five miles, and its present population is between
six and seven thousand.

Such is a brief sketch of the history of San Marino.

Its long immunity from conquest and despotism and the
remarkable perpetuity of its institutions, are doubtless
owing, in no small measure, to its insignificant size and
almost impregnable position. Still the place cannot but
possess a singular interest in the view of a pilgrim from
the New World, especially when its present condition is
contrasted with that of the rest of Italy, and more particularly
of the surrounding territory. A few humble domiciles
scattered along the lower ridge of the mountain,
and separated by a narrow and rugged street, constitute
“Il Borgo.” Thence, ascending by a circuitous path,
we soon arrived at a larger collection of houses which
form the capital of the republic. It differs not essentially
from similar Italian towns, except that the streets are narrower
and more straggling. The new church, just completed,
is a pretty edifice built of travertina, excavated
near by, after the design of Antonio Sara. The twelve
apostles in stucco, placed in niches, ornament the interior,
and near the altar is a handsome marble statue of
Saint Marino, recently executed by a Roman Sculptor.
He is represented holding a scroll, upon which the arms
of the republic (three towers surmounted by as many pens,
significant of the union of strength and wisdom) are
sculptured in bronze, with the word Libertas. This
edifice continues as in ancient times, the place of
elections as well as of worship. There is a little
theatre where dilletanti occasionally perform. I was at
some pains to enter this miniature temple of Thespis,
for the sake of standing in the only theatre in Italy
exempt from censorship, and where, although the audience
is small and the spot isolated, free expression is
given to any sentiment or opinion which the people
choose to utter or applaud. Crossing a grass-grown
and solitary court near the walls, where four or five
cisterns alone gave signs of the vicinity of man, we
entered a small and time-worn building ornamented
by an old tower and clock, and ascending a narrow
flight of steps, were ushered into the council-room. A
few wooden seats scattered over the brick floor, upon
the back of which are rudely painted the arms of the republic,
surround an ancient chair covered with crimson
velvet, placed beneath a canopy of the same hue. A mutilated
picture of the Holy Family by Giulio Romano,
and a bust of their favorite ambassador, Antonio Honuphrio,
are the only ornaments of which the apartment
boasts. I had lingered, but a day or two previous, in the
magnificent halls of some of the Bolognese nobility, where
the silken drapery, rich marbles and splendid works of
art, weary the gaze. But this plain and unadorned chamber
possessed an interest which their profuse decorations
failed to inspire. It bespoke narrower resources
but a richer spirit. The presence of freedom seemed to
hallow every sunbeam that played upon the undecked
walls. Nor have mightier principalities disdained, in
our day, to recognize the little republic. Among its
archives are many communications from the several Italian
governments, the late king of Spain, and the present
king of France. Not long since, a prior being discovered
manifesting a disposition to intrigue beyond his appropriate
sphere, was bound, conducted to the confines
and banished. The only organized force is the militia,
who are bound to second the executive and judicial magistrates.
The people, however, are distinguished for their
probity and peaceful habits. Most of them are engaged
in agriculture. The only peculiar trait observable among
them, is an inflexible attachment to their peculiar institutions
and an earnest spirit of freedom. But recently,
an archbishop whose province of duty properly embraced
two towns, one of which was San Marino, abandoned the
latter in disgust, because he could not induce the people,
on public ocasions, to salute him before their own rulers.
Every half-year, they go in a body to the church, and deposite
their vote for captains in a silvervase. The result
of the election is made known at evening, and they accompany
the successful candidate home, with torches.
Before leaving the town, I ascended to the old castle.
The walls command a most extensive and beautiful prospect,
embracing the plains of Lombardy, a broad sweep
of wild, undulating hills, the mountain of Ancona and the
waters of the Adriatic. It was a delightful pastime to sit
in the pleasant sunshine of autumn, and gazing from this
little spot of free earth over such a landscape, let the
imagination luxuriate amid the thrilling associations of
the scene. We found but one occupant of the prison.
The gate was opened by a pretty blue-eyed woman, the
wife of the gaoler, who follows the trade of a cobbler in
the belfry of one of the three towers. There is one horrid
dungeon where a traitor priest suffered a long imprisonment;
but the number of available cells is only three—
which speaks well for the general character of the people.
When, on our return, we reached the little bridge which
divides the republican territory from Rimini, a venerable
woman was leaning upon the parapet, her grey hair fluttering
in the wind, in earnest conversation with a hardy
stripling who stood at a short distance from her. He
was a political fugitive who had found safety within the
bounds of San Marino, and she was his mother just arrived
from a town in the vicinity to visit him. The incident
excited a pleasing train of reflections. San Marino
has rendered no small service to the cause of liberty,
by sheltering the many unfortunate victims of unsuccessful
revolution. For such she has ever a welcome. The
pope has been obliged to compromise with the republicans,
by agreeing that refugees from his territory
may travel unmolested for a certain period, with a
passport from the authorities of San Marino. This arrangement
has been eminently serviceable in protecting
the persons and rights of the liberals, and excited much
gratitude and respect towards the state. The setting sun
gleamed upon the summit of the mountain, as I turned
back to take a farewell glimpse of this little nestling-place
of freedom. I remembered the contented and happy
looks of the peasantry, and recalled the testimony
they all so cordially bore to the superior privileges
they enjoyed. I mused upon the remarkable preservation
of that isolated spot amid the unhappy destinies of the
land. I strove to impress the picturesque locality upon
my memory; and pleased my heart with the thought that
there was still one little green leaf in the withered crown
of Italy.