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Historical collections of Virginia

containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to its history and antiquities, together with geographical and statistical descriptions : to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia : illustrated by over 100 engravings, giving views of the principal towns, seats of eminent men, public buildings, relics of antiquity, historic localities, natural scenery, etc., etc.
  
  
  
  
  
  
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NORFOLK.

Norfolk was formed in 1691, from Lower Norfolk, afterwards
changed to the name of Nansemond. Its length from N. to S. is 32
miles, mean width 17 miles. The Portsmouth and Roanoke railroad,



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illustration

MARKET SQUARE, NORFOLK.

In the centre of the view is shown the market, and in the distance, on the opposite bank of Elizabeth River—the common harbor of Norfolk and
Portsmouth—a part of the town of Portsmouth.



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which is 77 miles long, commences at Portsmouth, in this
county, and terminates on the Roanoke River, at Weldon, N. C.
The Dismal Swamp Canal, 22 miles long, connects Chesapeake
Bay with Albemarle Sound, North Carolina. The north end
empties into Deep creek, a branch of Elizabeth River; and the
south into Joice's creek, a branch of the Pasquotank River. This
canal passes for 20 miles through the Great Dismal Swamp, and
has been a work of great labor and difficulty. It was commenced
in 1787, under a joint charter of the two states; but was not finished
until a few years since. It is one of the best canals in
the Union, is navigated by sloops and schooners, and does much
business. Lake Drummond, near the centre of the Dismal Swamp,
in times of great drought is its only feeder. In addition, a new
cut of 2½ miles long, from the town of Deep Creek direct to the
Elizabeth River, has lately been made, which saves a circuit of
several miles. Hampton Roads lies on the N. border of the county.
Pop. in 1840, whites 11,280, slaves 7,845, free colored 1,967; total,
21,092.

Norfolk borough is situated 106 miles from Richmond, 230 from
Washington city, and 8 miles above Hampton Roads, on the N.
bank of Elizabeth River, near the junction of its southern and eastern
branches. It was first established by law as a town in October,
1705, in the 4th year of the reign of Queen Anne; at which
time its favorable situation for trade had gathered a considerable
population.

In the Westover mss., Col. Byrd, in the History of the Dividing
Line between Virginia and North Carolina, thus describes Norfolk
in 1728:

Norfolk has most the air of a town of any in Virginia. There were then near 20
brigantines and sloops riding at the wharves, and oftentimes they have more. It has all
the advantages of situation requisite for trade and navigation. . . The town is so near the
sea that its vessels may sail in and out in a few hours. Their trade is chiefly to the
West Indies, whither they export abundance of beef, pork, flour, and lumber. The worst
of it is, they contribute much towards debauching the country by importing abundance
of rum, which, like gin in Great Britain, breaks the constitutions, vitiates the morals,
and ruins the industry of most of the poor people of this country. This place is the mart
for most of the commodities produced in the adjacent parts of North Carolina. They
have a pretty deal of lumber from the borderers on the Dismal, who make bold with the
king's land thereabouts, without the least ceremony. They not only maintain their
stocks upon it, but get boards, shingles, and other lumber out of it in great abundance.

The town is built on a level spot of ground upon Elizabeth River, the banks whereof
are neither so high as to make the landing of goods troublesome, nor so low as to be in
danger of overflowing. The streets are straight, and adorned with several good houses,
which increase every day. It is not a town of ordinaries and public houses, like most
others in this country, but the inhabitants consist of merchants, ship-carpenters, and
other useful artisans, with sailors enough to manage their navigation. With all these
conveniences, it lies under the two great disadvantages that most of the towns in Holland
do, by having neither good air nor good water. The two cardinal virtues that
make a place thrive, industry and frugality, are seen here in perfection; and so long as
they can banish luxury and idleness, the town will remain in a happy and flourishing
condition.

The method of building wharves here is after the following manner. They lay down
long pine logs, that reach from the shore to the edge of the channel. These are bound
fast together by cross pieces notched into them, according to the architecture of the loghouses


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in North Carolina. A wharf built thus will stand several years, in spite of the
worm, which bites here very much, but may be soon repaired in a place where so many
pines grow in the neighborhood.

Norfolk was formed into a borough Sept. 15th, 1736, by royal
charter from George II. Samuel Boush, one of the principal landholders,
was made mayor[1] until a vacancy occurred either by his
death or resignation. Sir John Randolph was appointed recorder,
and the following gentlemen aldermen—George Newton, Samuel
Boush, Jr., John Hutchins, Robert Tucker, John Taylor, Samuel
Smith, Jr., James Ivey, and Alexander Campbell.

Ten years after, the inhabitants of the borough evinced their
loyalty in their rejoicings at the defeat of the Pretender at the
battle of Culloden, fought April 6th, 1746; an account of which
is preserved in the Virginia Gazette, published at Williamsburg,
and copied below:

Williamsburg, July 31.—We have very credible information from the borough of Norfolk, that on the
23d inst. they made extraordinary rejoicings there upon the good news of the defeat of the rebels by His
Royal Highness, the Duke of Cumberland. The account we have of it is as follows:

The effigy of the Pretender, in the full proportion of a man, in a Highland dress resembling that which
he appeared in, by the account given by a person in town who saw him a few months ago, was placed
in a two-armed chair, and the following cavalcade marshalled, viz:

1st. Three drummers.

2d. A piper.

3d. Three violins.

4th. Six men with long white rods, with slips of paper like sashes over their shoulders, and different
mottoes wrote on them in capital letters, as Liberty, Property, and No Pretender, No Wooden Shoes, &c.

5th. A man in woman's clothes, dressed like a nurse, carrying a warming-pan with a child peeping out
of it.

6th. The Pretender in a two-armed chair, drawn in a cart.

7th. Six men, two and two, with drawn cutlasses.

Lastly. A vast crowd of people of the town and country, who thus marched in procession through all
the streets till they came (about one o'clock) to the centre of the three main streets, where a gibbet being
erected for the purpose, the cart was drawn under it, and his Protectorship was immediately exalted to
the general view and satisfaction of the spectators. Liquor was provided for the better sort, and the
populace had great plenty in casks standing with one head out.

On drinking the health of His Majesty, King George II., a royal salute was made of 21 guns, planted
in two different places, which was answered by a number of others from vessels in the harbor. Then
followed other loyal healths, as the Royal Family, His Royal Highness the Duke, the Governor, Virginia,
success to His Majesty's arms, &c., each health being proclaimed by the guns at the two different parts
of the town, and vessels in the harbor. Thus the gentlemen continued at the court-house till the evening,
when the windows all over town were beautifully illuminated. Then a large bonfire was kindled
around the gibbet, and in a few minutes the effigy dropped into the flames. Then there was another
royal salute, accompanied with loud huzzas and acclamations of joy. To conclude, that the ladies
might also partake of the rejoicings on this extraordinary occasion, the gentlemen entertained them with
a ball, and the evening concluded with innocent mirth and unaffected joy, becoming a people loyal to
their king, and zealous for their country's good.

The harbor of Norfolk admits vessels of the largest size, and is
equal to any in the country. It may be considered the great naval
depôt of the Union; and the borough, together with Portsmouth,
is the residence of a greater number of naval officers than any
other port in the country. There are, generally, several vessels
of war lying at anchor in her harbor, beside those at the Navy
Yard.

Previous to the late war, Norfolk monopolized almost all the
trade with the British West Indies, which was a source of much
profit. From that period, excepting the years 1816, '17, and '18,
during which the restriction was removed, her commerce was in a


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languishing condition until the completion of the Dismal Swamp
Canal. Its facilities for trade have been greatly increased by the
completion of this work and the Portsmouth and Roanoke Railroad.
It enjoys considerable foreign commerce, chiefly in corn,
lumber, cotton, and naval stores. The plan of the town is somewhat
illustration

St. Paul's Church, Norfolk.

irregular. Most of the streets are wide and well built, with
handsome brick and stone buildings. The surface of the town is
an almost dead level, and the private residences of many of its
inhabitants, away from the business streets, are very neat, and have
annexed spacious gardens adorned with shrubbery.

An erroneous impression has prevailed abroad that Norfolk is
unhealthy: yet the stranger having this idea cannot but be surprised
at the unusual number of fine, rosy-cheeked, healthy-looking
children whom he meets in the streets. "The deaths in Norfolk
for the year ending May 31st, 1844, as reported by the health-officer,
amounted to 209, in a population of 11,000, or 1⅞ per cent.
—a pretty favorable indication of the salubrity of the position. The
deaths in London are 3 per cent. of the population; in Philadelphia
2½ per cent. In both of these cities are masses of poor, destitute,
vicious, and worked-to-death people, which necessarily accounts
for their greater mortality. In Norfolk, however, there is
a large slave population, yet the same rule does not apply."

The principal public buildings are a custom-house, court-house,
jail, a marine hospital, almshouse, academy, masons' lodge, 2
Episcopal, 1 Methodist, 1 Catholic, 1 Baptist, and 1 Presbyterian
church, beside 2 churches for colored people. There is a theatre,
1 Lancasterian, and about 40 other schools, an orphan asylum, 3
newspaper printing offices, 3 banks—Virginia Bank, Farmers'
Bank of Va., and a Savings' Bank—and a population of about
12,000. It has more foreign commerce than any other place in
the state. The tonnage in 1840 was 19,079. There were then,
by the U. S. statistics, 8 foreign commercial and 8 commission
houses, cap. $202,000; 35 retail stores, cap. $1,590,500; cap. in


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manufactures, $178,300. Population in 1775, about 6,000; 1810,
9,193; 1820, 9,478; 1830, 9,816; 1840, 10,920, of whom about
one-half were blacks.

The most beautiful building in the town is the Norfolk academy,
which is an elegant structure after the temple of Theseus, standing
on a spacious green.

It is an academy of the highest class, under the charge of a principal and three assistant
professors. The principal, W. F. Hopkins, A. M., was formerly professor of
chemistry at the U. S. Military Academy at West Point. Under his charge it is very
flourishing. The pupils, for the purpose of exercise, are formed into a military corps.
Annexed to this institution is a preparatory department. St. Paul's church is the oldest
building in Norfolk. It was erected in 1739. When the town was burnt by the British
in the revolution, it was almost the only building that escaped destruction. The enemy
robbed the church, and carried the baptismal font, which was of marble, to Scotland.
Upon the end of the church there is still to be seen on the stone-work, the marks of a
cannon-ball fired from the enemy's shipping. The grave-yard, which was used as early
as 1700, contains many monuments.

In the environs of the town, a beautiful cemetery, containing several acres, has been
laid out by the corporation. It is surrounded by a high, white wall, and is tastefully
planted with evergreens. Annexed are inscriptions from some of the monuments:—

Here rest the remains of Capt. Angus Martin, who died Sept. 18th, 1838, aged 75 years. He was a
native of Argyleshire, Scotland. Bred to the sea, he was, at the early age of 18, intrusted with the command
of a ship belonging to the port of Greenock; and crossed the Atlantic one hundred times in his
lifetime, as a mariner, &c. &c.

Sacred to the memory of Robert Monroe Harrison, late a midshipman in the navy of the U. S., and son
of Robert M. Harrison, for many years consul for the U. S. at various places, and now filling that station
at St. Bartholomews. He was born on the 27th of Dec., 1811, and by the upsetting of one of the U. S.
cutters in this harbor, was drowned, together with his friends and messmates, Mids. J. S. Slidell and
Frederick Rodgers, on the 5th April, 1828. He was distinguished for his amiable disposition, for the remarkable
sprightliness of his genius, and for various and extensive acquirements, which would have done
honor to a riper age. As an officer he was conspicuous for his zeal and devotion to his duties; as a gentleman
for his accomplished, frank, and manly deportment. His end was marked by the same firmness
and magnanimity which had characterized his life, resigning himself to a fate which was inevitable. He
declined the proffered aid of his generous comrades, and exhorted them to use their exertions, which,
alas! were unavailing, to save themselves. Thus, in the morning of life, was this brilliant youth cut off
in a career full of promise to his country, and of hope and consolation to his parents. His remains and
those of his friend, Mid. Slidell, were followed to the grave by one of the largest and most respectable processions
of our fellow-citizens ever known, and under circumstances most solemn and affecting, interred
with military honors, on the 13th April, 1828.

Norfolk and its vicinity was the scene of some important military
events in the war of the revolution. The British fleet, to which
Lord Dunmore had fled at the outbreak of hostilities, made Norfolk
harbor its principal rendezvous.

In October, 1775, "a British officer (says Girardin) with 12 or 13 soldiers, and a few
sailors, landed at the county wharf in Norfolk, and, under cover of the men-of-war,
who made every show of firing upon the town in case the party were molested, marched
up the main street to Holt's printing-office, from whence, without opposition or resistance,
they carried off the types, with other printing materials, and two of the workmen.
The corporation of Norfolk remonstrated with Dunmore on this outrage; stated their
ability to have cut off this small party, had they been so disposed; and requested the
immediate return of the persons and property illegally seized. Dunmore's answer was
taunting and insulting in the highest degree. He said that he could not have rendered
the people of Norfolk a greater service, than by depriving them of the means of having
their minds poisoned, and of exciting in them `the spirit of rebellion and sedition;'
that their not having cut off the small party who took Holt's types, he imputed to other
reasons than their peaceable intentions, as their drums were beating to arms without
success the greater part of the time that the party were on shore. He gave them no
satisfaction on the subject of restoring the persons and property seized and carried off.
Holt, the printer, was not silent on the occasion. He published in the Williamsburg
papers an eloquent philippic against Dunmore, and a patriotic advertisement, stating his
intention to establish a new press, to be conducted on the same principles as that which
had been destroyed."


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The administration of Virginia directed all their attention upon this part of the state,
where they perceived the danger most formidable. Dunmore, alarmed at their preparations,
constructed batteries and intrenchments at Norfolk, armed the blacks and tories,
and forced the country people to drive their cattle and convey provisions to the town.
The government of Va. dispatched, with all speed, a detachment of minute-men, under
the command of Col. Woodford, into the county.

"Dunmore, apprized (says Botta) of this movement, very prudently occupied a strong
position upon the north bank of Elizabeth River, called Great Bridge, a few miles from
Norfolk. This point was situated upon the direct route of the provincial troops. Here
he threw up works upon the Norfolk side, and furnished them with a numerous artillery.
The intrenchments were surrounded on every part with water and marshes, and were
only accessible by a long dike. As to the forces of the governor, they were little formidable:
he had only 200 regulars, and a corps of Norfolk volunteers; the residue consisted
in a shapeless mass of varlets of every color. The Virginians took post over
against the English, in a small village at a cannon-shot distance. Before them they had
a long narrow dike, the extremity of which they also fortified. In this state the two
parties remained for several days without making any movement."

An ingenious stratagem precipitated the operations. A servant of Major Marshall's,
(father of the chief-justice,) being properly instructed, deserted to Dunmore, and reported
that there were not at the bridge more than 300 shirt-men, as the Virginians,
who mostly wore hunting-shirts, were contemptuously called. Believing the story, Dunmore
dispatched about 200 regulars, and 300 blacks and tories, to the Great Bridge; who
arrived there on the morning of the 9th of December, 1775, and just as the reveille had
done beating, made an attack upon the Virginians. They were signally defeated, and
lost 102 in killed and wounded. The annexed particulars of this action, called the
"Battle of the Great Bridge," were published five days after, in the Virginia Gazette:

The Great Bridge is built over what is called the southern branch of Elizabeth River, 12 miles above
Norfolk. The land on each side is marshy to a considerable distance from the river, except at the two
extremities of the bridge, where are two pieces of firm land, which may not improperly be called islands,
being entirely surrounded by water and marsh, and joined to the main land by causeways. On the little
piece of firm ground on the further or Norfolk side, Lord Dunmore had erected his fort, in such a manner
that his cannon commanded the causeway on his own side, and the bridges between him and us, with
the marshes around him. The island on this side of the river contained six or seven houses, some of
which were burnt down (those nearest the bridge) by the enemy after the arrival of our troops; in the
others, adjoining the causeway on each side, were stationed a guard every night by Col. Woodford, but
withdrawn before day, that they might not be exposed to the fire of the enemy's fort in recrossing the
causeway to our camp, this causeway also being commanded by their cannon.

The causeway on our side, in length was about 160 yards, and on the hither extremity our breastwork
was thrown up. From the breastwork ran a street gradually ascending, about the length of 400 yards,
to a church where our main body was encamped. The great trade to Norfolk in shingles, tar, pitch, and
turpentine, from the country back of this, had occasioned so many houses to be built here, whence the
articles were conveyed to Norfolk by water. But this by the by. Such is the nature of the place as
described to me, and such was our situation, and that of the enemy.

On Saturday the 9th inst., after reveille beating, two or three great guns and some musketry were discharged
by the enemy, which, as it was not an unusual thing, was but little regarded by Col. Woodford.
However, soon after he heard a call to the soldiers to stand by their arms, upon which, with all expedition,
he made the proper dispositions to receive them. In the mean time, the enemy had crossed the
bridge, fired the remaining houses upon the island, and some large piles of shingles, and attacked our
guard in the breastwork. Our men returned the fire, and threw them into some confusion; but they
were instantly rallied by Capt. Fordyce, and advanced along the causeway with great resolution, keeping
up a constant and heavy fire as they approached. Two field-pieces, which had been brought across the
bridge and placed on the edge of the island, facing the left of our breastwork, played briskly at the same
time upon us. Lieut. Travis, who commanded in the breastwork, ordered his men to reserve their fire
until the enemy came within fifty yards, and then they gave it to them with terrible execution. The brave
Fordyce exerted himself to keep up their spirits, reminded them of their ancient glory, and, waving his
hat over his head encouragingly, told them the day was their own. Thus pressing forward, he fell within
fifteen steps of the breastwork. His wounds were many, and his death would have been that of a hero
had he met it in a better cause. The progress of the enemy was now at an end, and they retreated over
the causeway with precipitation, and were dreadfully galled in their rear.

Hitherto, on our side only the guard, consisting of twenty-five, and some others, in the whole not
amounting to more than ninety, had been engaged. Only the regulars of the 14th regiment, in number
120, had advanced upon the causeway; and about 230 negroes and tories had, after crossing the bridge,
continued upon the island. The regulars, after retreating along the causeway, were again rallied by
Capt. Leslie, and the two field-pieces continued playing upon our men. It was at this time that Col.
Woodford was advancing down the street to the breastwork with the main body, and against him was
now directed the whole fire of the enemy. Never were cannon better served; yet in the face of them
and the musketry, which kept up a continual blaze, our men marched on with the utmost intrepidity.
Col. Stevens, of the Culpeper battalion, was sent round to the left to flank the enemy, which was done
with so much spirit and activity that a rout immediately ensued. The enemy fled into their fort, leaving
behind them the two field-pieces, which, however, they took care to spike up with nails.

Many were killed and wounded in the flight; but Col. Woodford very prudently restrained his troops
from pursuing the enemy too far. From the beginning of the attack, till the repulse at the breastwork,
might be 14 or 15 minutes; till the total defeat, upwards of half an hour. It is said that some of the
enemy preferred death to captivity, from fear of being scalped, which Lord Dunmore cruelly told them


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would be their fate should they be taken alive. Thirty-one killed and wounded fell into our hands, and
the number borne off was much greater. Through the whole engagement every officer and soldier behaved
with the greatest calmness and courage. The conduct of our sentinels I cannot pass over in
silence. Before they quitted their stations, they fired at least three rounds as the enemy were crossing
the bridge, and one of them, posted behind some shingles, kept his ground until he had fired eight times,
and, after he had received the fire of a whole platoon, made his escape across the causeway to our
breastwork. The scene was closed with as much humanity as it was conducted with bravery. The
work of death being over, every one's attention was directed to the succor of the unhappy sufferers; and
it is an undoubted fact, that Capt. Leslie was so affected with the tenderness of our troops to those capable
of assistance, that he gave signs from the fort, of his thankfulness. What is not paralleled in history,
and will scarcely be credible, except to such as acknowledge a Providence over human affairs, this victory
was gained at the expense of no more than a slight wound in a soldier's hand; and one circumstance
which rendered it still more amazing is, that the field-pieces raked the whole length of the street,
and absolutely threw double-headed shot as far as the church, and afterwards, as our troops approached,
cannonaded them heavily with grape-shot.

An article in a succeeding paper says: "A correspondent on whose information we may depend, informs
us that our soldiers showed the greatest humanity and tenderness to the wounded prisoners. Several
of them ran through a hot fire to lift up and bring in some that were bleeding, and who they feared
would die if not speedily assisted by the surgeon. The prisoners expected to be scalped, and cried out,
`For God's sake, do not murder us.' One of them, unable to walk, cried out in this manner to one of our
men, and was answered by him, `Put your arm around my neck, and I will show you what I intend to
do.' Then taking him with his arm over his neck, he walked slowly along, bearing him along with
great tenderness, to the breastwork. Capt. Leslie, seeing two of our soldiers tenderly removing a wounded
regular from the bridge, stepped upon the platform of the fort, and bowing with great respect, thanked
them for their kindness. These are instances of a noble disposition of soul. Men who can act thus,
must be invincible.

The repulse of the British at Great Bridge, determined the Virginians to march to
Norfolk, "the strong-hold of ministerial power, and the focus of hostile enterprise; and
a numerous party under Col. Stevens was immediately detached to Kemp's Landing,
with orders to secure, in the neighborhood of that place, every person known to have
left Norfolk since the battle of the Great Bridge.

"Among the individuals arrested in consequence of these orders, one William Calvert
reported that he was present when Dunmore received the news of the defeat. His lordship,
frantic with rage, swore, in his impotent ravings, that he would hang the boy who
brought the information. The intrenchments at Norfolk were hastily abandoned, more
than 20 pieces of cannon spiked and dismantled, and the fleet resorted to by the late
governor and many of the disaffected, with their families and the most portable and
valuable of their effects, as the only asylum against the impending vengeance of the
patriots. Nothing but trepidation, shame, and despair, was now to be seen among those
rash and infatuated boasters who lately hurled defiance and insult in the face of the
Virginians—who, with ferocious joy and presumptuous confidence, spoke of easy triumphs
over them—considered their noble enthusiasm as a momentary effervescence of popular
phrensy—denied their courage, as well as their ability to resist ministerial omnipotence—
and in their dreams of ideal conquest, dealt around confiscation, proscription, and death."

In consequence of a pacific declaration, issued by Col. Woodford to the inhabitants
of Princess Anne and Norfolk counties, many of the inhabitants resorted to his camp.
To those who had joined the enemy through fear alone, all reasonable indulgence
was extended; while upon others a vigilant eye was kept. Those taken in arms were
each coupled with handcuffs to one of his black fellow-soldiers, as a stigma, and placed
in confinement. On the night of the 14th, five days after the battle of Great Bridge,
the Virginians entered Norfolk, and the succeeding morning Col. Howe assumed the
command.

"Although the greater part of the loyalists of Norfolk and its environs had sought refuge in the
governor's fleet, there had, nevertheless, remained a considerable number of them; either on account of
their reluctance to leave their properties, or their dread of the sea and of famine, or perhaps because they
hoped to find more lenity on the part of their fellow-citizens who made profession of liberty, than they
had shown towards them when they had been superior in this country.

"But it is certain that the patriots, on acquiring the ascendency, made them feel it cruelly, and overwhelmed
them with all those vexations of which there are so many examples in civil wars, between
men of different parties. The governor, transported with rage, and touched by the piteous cries of the
loyalists, panted to avenge them. This reciprocal hatred was daily exasperated by the rencontres which
took place very frequently between the two parties; the provincials watching at all points of the shore
to prevent the royal troops from landing, in order to forage in the country, and the latter, on the contrary,
eagerly spying every means to plunder provisions upon the American territory. The multitude of months
to be fed, kept them constantly in a famishing state. A ship of war arrived in the mean time, in the
bay of Norfolk. Lord Dunmore sent a flag on shore to apprize the inhabitants that they must furnish
provisions, and cease firing, otherwise he should bombard the town. The provincials answered only by
a refusal. The governor then resolved to drive them out of the city with artillery, and to burn the
houses situated upon the river. He sent in the morning to give notice of his design, in order that the
women, children, and all except combatants might retreat to a place of safety."

On the first of January, 1776, "between three and four o'clock in the afternoon, a heavy cannonade
from the frigate Liverpool, two sloops of war, and the ship Dunmore, opened against the town. Under
cover of the guns, several parties of marines and sailors were landed, and set fire to the houses on the
wharves. As the wind blew from the water, and the buildings were chiefly of wood, the flames rapidly


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spread. The efforts of the American commanders and their men to stop the progress and ravages of the
fire, proved ineffectual. The conflagration raged for nearly three days, and consumed about nine-tenths
of the town. Scarcely can even the strongest imagination picture to itself the distress of the wretched
inhabitants, most of whom, friends or foes, saw their homes, their property, their all, an indiscriminate
prey to the irrepressible fury of the flames. The horrors of the conflagration were heightened by the
thunder of cannon from the ships, and musketry of the hostile parties that encountered each other in
sharp conflict near the shore, and on the smoking ruins of the devoted town. In these encounters, the
British were uniformly repulsed, and driven back to their boats with shame and loss. Of the Americans,
by a singular good fortune, none were killed, and only 5 or 6 men wounded, one of whom mortally.
Some women and children were, however, reported to have lost their lives. In this affair, the intrepid
Stevens still added to his fame. At the head of his hardy, indefatigable, and irresistible band, he rushed
with the rapidity of lightning to the water-side, struck a large party of British, who had just landed there,
and compelled them to retire, with slaughter and in dismay, to the protection of their wooden walls. In
general, during the whole of this afflicting scene, both officers and men evinced a spirit worthy of
veterans.

"Such was the melancholy event which laid prostrate the most flourishing and richest town in the
colony. Its happy site, combining all those natural advantages which invite and promote navigation and
commerce, had been actively seconded by the industry and enterprise of the inhabitants. Before the
existing troubles, an influx of wealth was rapidly pouring into its lap. In the two years from 1773 to
1775, the rents of the houses increased from 8,000 to 10,000l. a year. Its population exceeded 6,000 citizens,
many of whom possessed affluent fortunes. The whole actual loss, on this lamentable occasion,
has been computed at more than three hundred thousand pounds sterling; and the mass of distress attendant
on the event is beyond all calculation."

After the conflagration of Norfolk, occasional skirmishes took place between the Virginians
and the enemy, in which the latter suffered most severely. "On the 6th of
February, Col. Robert Howe, who was now commander of the American troops, abandoned
Norfolk, or rather, the site on which Norfolk had stood; for scarcely any vestige
of that ill-fated town was now to be seen. After removing the inhabitants, the remaining
edifices had been destroyed; and the mournful silence of gloomy depopulation now
reigned where the gay, animating bustle of an active emulous crowd had so lately prevailed."
Howe stationed his troops at Kemp's, at the Great Bridge, and Suffolk. To
the latter place numbers of houseless and distressed fugitives from Norfolk had resorted;
humanity and hospitality had thrown open her doors, and every building was crowded
with these unfortunate wanderers.

The most energetic measures were resorted to by the committee
of safety, to preclude the flotilla of Dunmore from obtaining supplies
along the banks of those waters which their presence still
infested. By these measures they were compelled to abandon
their intrenchments, and after burning the barracks they had
erected near the ruins of Norfolk, to seek a refuge on board their
vessels, where much suffering awaited them. In the latter part
of May they were seen manœuvring in Hampton Roads, and they
finally landed and intrenched themselves at Gwyn's island. The
signal defeat that awaited them there, is detailed under the head
of Mathews county.

On the 9th of May, 1779, a British fleet from New York, conducted by Sir George
Collier, anchored in Hampton Roads. The government of the state had erected Fort
Nelson a short distance below Portsmouth, on the western bank of Elizabeth River, to
secure Portsmouth, Norfolk, and the marine yard at Gosport, from insult. This work
was garrisoned by about 150 men, under Major Thomas Matthews, who abandoned it
and retreated to the Dismal Swamp. On the 11th, the British took possession of Portsmouth,
and detached troops to Norfolk, Gosport, and Suffolk. At the two first they
destroyed abundance of naval and military stores, and the last they burnt. They
also destroyed, besides much public and private property, upwards of a hundred vessels.
They remained but a short time, and then re-embarked for New York.

In October, 1780, Brig. Gen. Leslie, with about three thousand troops from New
York, landed at Portsmouth, and took possession of vessels and other property on the
coast. He soon left the shores of the state and sailed for Charleston, and shortly after
joined Cornwallis. When Arnold invaded Virginia in January, 1781, the waters of
Elizabeth River were again entered by the enemy. Portsmouth was for a time the
head-quarters of the traitor. Cornwallis was also at Portsmouth just previous to taking
post at Yorktown.

Portsmouth, the seat of justice for Norfolk county, is on the left
bank of Elizabeth River, immediately opposite Norfolk, with which


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there is a constant communication by a ferry, distant three quarters
of a mile. The town was established in February, 1752, on
the land of William Crawford. Like Norfolk, and several of the
large towns of eastern Virginia, many of its early settlers were
Scotch and Irish, principally engaged in mercantile pursuits. In
common with Norfolk, it possesses one of the best harbors in the
illustration

View in the Harbor of Portsmouth.

Union, in which vessels of war are generally lying at anchor, and
vessels of the largest size come to its wharves. A short distance
below the town is the U. S. Naval Hospital, a large and showy
building—shown on the right of the above view—built of brick,
and stuccoed. On the opposite side of the river stand the ruins
of Fort Norfolk; it is on or near the site of Fort Nelson, built in
the war of the revolution.

The U. S. Navy Yard is directly on the southern extremity of
Portsmouth, half a mile from the central part of the town, in that
portion of it called Gosport, where the general government has
built a large and costly dry dock, of the best materials and workmanship,
capable of admitting the largest ships. The construction
of vessels at the navy-yard, at times employs as many as
1,400 men; and it is this source that proves one of the principal
means of the support of the town. The Portsmouth and Roanoke
rail-road commences at this place, and with the connecting
rail-roads forms a communication with Charleston, S. C. The
Virginia Literary, Scientific, and Military Academy, established
here in 1840, by Capt. Alden S. Partridge, numbers about forty
pupils. Portsmouth contains a court-house, jail, 6 churches—1
Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Catholic, 1 Baptist, 1 Methodist, and


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1 do. for blacks—a branch of the Bank of Virginia, and a population
of about 7,000. The town is beautifully laid off into squares,
and its site is level. With Norfolk, it possesses an excellent
fish-market. Shellfish, oysters, crabs, &c., abound. The Lynn
Harbor oysters are highly esteemed by epicures.

illustration

Navy Yard, Gosport.

The village of Deep Creek is situated at the northern extremity
of the Dismal Swamp canal, about 10 miles from Norfolk. It is a
depôt of the canal, and contains about 30 dwellings. Its commercial
business is principally confined to a trade in large juniper
or white cedar shingles, and other lumber from the Dismal Swamp,
which gives constant employment to several schooners, plying to
the northern cities.

The celebrated swamp called the "Dismal," lies partly in Virginia and partly in
North Carolina; it extends from north to south nearly 30 miles, and averages, from east
to west, about 10 miles. Five navigable rivers and some creeks rise in it. The sources
of all these streams are hidden in the swamp, and no traces of them appear above
ground. From this it appears that there must be plentiful subterraneous fountains to
supply these streams—or the soil must be filled perpetually with the water drained from
the higher lands which surround it. The latter hypothesis is most probable, because
the soil of the swamp is a complete quagmire, trembling under the feet, and filling immediately
the impression of every step with water. It may be penetrated to a great
distance by thrusting down a stick, and whenever a fire is kindled upon it, after the layer
of leaves and rubbish is burned through, the coals sink down, and are extinguished.

The eastern skirts of the Dismal Swamp are overgrown with reeds, ten or twelve
feet high, interlaced everywhere with thorny bamboo briers, which render it almost
impossible to pass. Among these are found, here and there, a cypress, and white cedar,
which last is commonly mistaken for the juniper. Towards the south there is a very
large tract covered with reeds, without any trees, which being constantly green, and
waving in the wind, is called the green sea. An evergreen shrub, called the gall-bush,
grows plentifully throughout, but especially on the borders; it bears a berry which dyes
a black color, like the gall of an oak—and hence its name.


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Near the middle of the swamp, the trees grow much closer, both the cypress and
cedar; and being always green, and loaded with large tops, are much exposed to the
wind, and easily blown down in this boggy place, where the soil is too soft to afford
sufficient hold to the roots. From these causes the passage is nearly always obstructed
by trees, which lay piled in heaps, and riding upon each other; and the snags left in
them pointing in every direction, render it very difficult to clamber over them.

On the western border of the Dismal Swamp is a pine swamp, above a mile in
breadth, the greater part of which is covered to the depth of the knee with water: the
bottom, however, is firm, and though the pines growing upon it are very large and tall,
yet they are not easily blown down by the wind; so that this swamp may be passed
without any hinderance, save that occasioned by the depth of the water. With all these
disadvantages, the Dismal Swamp, though disagreeable to the other senses, is, in many
places, pleasant to the eye, on account of the perpetual verdure, which makes every
season like the spring, and every month like May.

"Immense quantities of shingles and other juniper lumber are obtained from the
swamp, and furnish employment for many negroes, who reside in little huts in its
recesses.

"Much of the lumber is brought out of the swamp, either through ditches cut for the
purpose, in long narrow lighters, or are carted out by mules, on roads made of poles laid
across the road so as to touch each other, forming a bridge or causeway. There are
very many miles of such road. The laborers carry the shingles, &c., to these roads
from the trees, on their heads and shoulders. The Dismal Swamp Canal runs through
it from north to south, and the Portsmouth and Roanoke Rail-road passes for five miles
across its northern part.

"It looks like a grand avenue, surrounded on either hand by magnificent forests.
The trees here, the cypress, juniper, oak, pine, &c., are of enormous size, and richest
foliage; and below is a thick entangled undergrowth of reeds, woodbine, grape-vines,
mosses, and creepers, shooting and twisted spirally around, interlaced and complicated,
so as almost to shut out the sun.

"The engineer who had constructed the road through this extraordinary swamp,
found it so formidable a labor as almost to despair of success. In running the line, his
feet were pierced by the sharp stumps of cut reeds; he was continually liable to sink
ankle or knee deep into a soft muddy ooze; the yellow flies and moschetoes swarmed
in myriads; and the swamp was inhabited by venomous serpents and beasts of prey.

"The Dismal Swamp was once a favorite hunting-ground of the Indians; arrowheads,
some knives, and hatchets, are yet found there; and it still abounds in deer,
bears, wild turkeys, wild-cats, &c. The water of this swamp is generally impregnated
with juniper, and is considered medicinal by the people of the surrounding country,
who convey it some distance in barrels. This swamp is much more elevated than the
surrounding country, and by means of the Dismal Swamp Canal, might be drained,
and thus a vast body of most fertile soil reclaimed; and the canal might be transformed
into a rail-road—and the juniper soil, which is vegetable, might, perhaps, be used as
peat.

"Lake Drummond.—There is in the interior of the Dismal
Swamp a body of water bearing this name, after the discoverer,
who, says tradition, wandering in pursuit of game with two companions,
was lost, and in his rambling came upon this lake. His
comrades failed to thread their way out. Drummond returned,
and gave an account of the sheet of water, which was accordingly
called after him."

This lake is much visited by parties from Norfolk and the adjacent
portions of North Carolina. There is here, exactly on the
line of Virginia and North Carolina, a favorite public house, called
"The Lake Drummond Hotel," which has become "the Gretna
Green" of this region. The poet Moore, who was in this country
in 1804, has made a superstition connected with this lake the
subject of a well-known poetical effusion, which we here extract:


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A BALLAD.

THE LAKE OF THE DISMAL SWAMP.

Written at Norfolk, in Virginia.

They tell of a young man who lost his mind upon the death of a girl he loved; and who suddenly
disappearing from his friends, was never afterwards heard of. As he frequently said in his ravings that
the girl was not dead, but gone to the Dismal Swamp, it is supposed that he had wandered into that
dreary wilderness, and had died of hunger, or been lost in some of its dreadful morasses.—Anon.

"La Poésie a ses monstres comme la nature."—D'Alembert.

"They made her a grave, too cold and damp
For a soul so warm and true;
And she's gone to the lake of the Dismal Swamp,
Where, all night long, by a firefly lamp,
She paddles her white canoe.
"And her firefly lamp I soon shall see,
And her paddle I soon shall hear;
Long and loving our life shall be,
And I'll hide the maid in a cypress tree,
When the footstep of death is near!"
Away to the Dismal Swamp he speeds—
His path was rugged and sore,
Through tangled juniper, beds of reeds,
Through many a fen, where the serpent feeds,
And man never trod before!
And when on the earth he sunk to sleep,
If slumber his eyelids knew,
He lay where the deadly vine doth weep
Its venomous tear, and nightly steep
The flesh with blistering dew!
And near him the she-wolf stirr'd the brake,
And the copper-snake breath'd in his ear,
Till he starting cried, from his dream awake,
"Oh! when shall I see the dusky lake,
And the white canoe of my dear?"
He saw the lake, and a meteor bright,
Quick over its surface play'd—
"Welcome!" he said; "my dear one's light!"
And the dim shore echoed for many a night,
The name of the death-cold maid!
Till he hollowed a boat of the birchen bark,
Which carried him off from shore;
Far he follow'd the meteor spark,
The wind was high and the clouds were dark,
And the boat return'd no more.
But oft from the Indian hunter's camp,
This lover and maid so true,
Are seen at the hour of midnight damp,
To cross the lake by a firefly lamp,
And paddle their white canoe!

On the 22d of June, 1813, a powerful British fleet made an attack
on Craney Island, at the entrance to Elizabeth River. They
were signally defeated. The event, as given below, is from Perkins'
Late War:

Before the British could enter the harbor of Norfolk and approach the town, it was
necessary to take possession of Craney Island. On the morning of the 22d, they were
discovered passing round the point of Nansemond River, and landing on the main land
in a position where the passage was fordable, with a view to pass over and attack the
works on the west side of the island, while at the same time a number of barges from
the fleet attempted to land in front. These were attacked before they reached the shore,
from a battery on the beach, manned by the sailors and marines from the Constellation
and the gun-boats. Three of the barges were sunk, most of the men drowned, and the
rest compelled to retreat to their shipping. The party which landed at Nansemond,
were met and repulsed by the Virginia militia, and driven back to their ships, with the
loss, including those in the barges, of upwards of two hundred in killed and wounded.
The city of Norfolk, and the neighboring villages of Gosport and Portsmouth, owed their
safety to this gallant defence of Craney Island.

Richard Dale, a distinguished naval officer of the revolution, was born in this county
in 1756. He early showed a predilection for the sea, and at the age of 12 made a voyage
to Liverpool, and continued in the merchant service until the breaking out of the
revolution. In 1776 he was appointed lieutenant of an armed ship, which belonged to
the infant navy of Virginia. While cruising in one of the boats of this vessel in the
James, he was captured by a British tender and confined on board of a British prisonship
at Norfolk. He was at this time scarce 20 years of age, and having passed his
youth on the ocean, can scarcely be supposed to have been familiar with the great principles
of the revolution. An old schoolmate, named Gutteridge, who commanded a
British tender, prevailed upon him to make a cruise with him up the Rappahannock. In
an engagement with a fleet of pilot-boats, he was wounded in the head by a musketball.

After his recovery he sailed for Bermuda, but the vessel he was in was captured by
Commodore Barry; an explanation followed, and Dale, convinced of his error, re-entered
the American service as a midshipman. Not long after he was again taken prisoner by
the British, but was soon exchanged, and was appointed to the U. S. ship Lexington.
This vessel being captured, Dale was the third time in the power of the enemy, who
threw him and his companions into the Mill Prison at Plymouth. Dale escaped with a


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companion and travelled to London, when their progress was stopped by a press-gang.
They were carried back to Mill Prison, and thrown into a noisome dungeon for forty
days. Dale was then released and placed with the rest of the prisoners. He was again
thrown into the Black Hole, for singing "rebellious songs." In 1779 this bold mariner
escaped to France, and there making the acquaintance of the famous Capt. John Paul
Jones, was appointed by him 1st lieutenant in the Bon Homme Richard. The fleet of
Jones cruised in the North Sea, and spread terror along the western coast of Scotland.
In the almost unparalleled and desperate action between the Bon Homme Richard and
the Serapis, Lieut. Dale distinguished himself and received a wound. Dale next served
under Captain Nicholson, on board the Trumbull, which was soon captured, and he
found himself for the fifth time a prisoner. Being exchanged, he was appointed captain
of an armed merchantman, and sailed in her to the close of the war. In 1794, he was
one of the six captains appointed from the merchant service to the U. S. navy. In
1801 he commanded the Mediterranean squadron, which protected our commerce from
the Barbary corsairs. Having returned to the United States in 1802, he was again appointed
to the Mediterranean station, but under circumstances which he conceived injurious
to his honor to accept. Commodore Dale, therefore, retired from the navy. The
decline of his life was as peaceful as his youth had been stirring and adventurous, and
he died in 1826, aged 70 years.

 
[1]

There is in the possession of a gentleman at Norfolk a silver mace, weighing several
pounds, presented to the corporation by Sir John Randolph. It was carried before the
Mayor on going to court, and in public processions.