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Historical collections of Virginia

containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c., relating to its history and antiquities, together with geographical and statistical descriptions : to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia : illustrated by over 100 engravings, giving views of the principal towns, seats of eminent men, public buildings, relics of antiquity, historic localities, natural scenery, etc., etc.
  
  
  
  
  
  
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JAMES CITY.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

  

JAMES CITY.

James City was one of the eight original shires into which
Virginia was divided in 1634. It has York River on its northern,
and the James on its southern boundary. Its length is 23 miles,
mean breadth 8 miles. Pop., whites 1,325, slaves 1,947, free
colored 507; total, 3,779.

illustration

Ruins at Jamestown.

Jamestown, the first settlement in British America, was settled
by Capt. John Smith and his companions, May 13th, 1607. The
site is a point of land projecting into the James. The water is
gaining on the shore, and the time may arrive when the waves
will roll over it. Of this deeply interesting spot, little remains but
a church-yard, and the tower of an ancient church—a venerable
memento of antiquity, carrying back the mind of the traveller, as


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he hurries by in a passing steamer, to scenes long since vanished
"down time's lengthening way." How appropriate and beautiful
are the reflections of the British Spy at this spot:

It is difficult [says he] to look at this venerable steeple, surrounded as it is with these
awful proofs of the mortality of man, without exclaiming, in the pathetic solemnity of
our Shakespeare,

"The cloud-capt towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
Yea, all which it inherits, shall dissolve;
And, like this insubstantial pageant faded,
Leave not a wreck behind."

Whence, my dear S . . . . . , arises the irrepressible reverence and tender affection
with which I look at this broken steeple? Is it that my soul, by a secret, subtle process,
invests the mouldering ruin with her own powers; imagines it a fellow-being; a
venerable old man, a Nestor, or an Ossian, who has witnessed and survived the ravages
of successive generations, the companions of his youth, and of his maturity, and now
mourns his own solitary and desolate condition, and hails their spirits in every passing
cloud? Whatever may be the cause, as I look at it, I feel my soul drawn forward as
by the cords of gentlest sympathy, and involuntarily open my lips to offer consolation to
the drooping pile.

Where, my S . . . . . . , is the busy, bustling crowd which landed here two hundred
years ago? Where is Smith, that pink of gallantry, that flower of chivalry? I fancy
that I can see their first slow and cautious approach to the shore; their keen and vigilant
eyes piercing the forest in every direction, to detect the lurking Indian, with his
tomahawk, bow and arrow. Good heavens! what an enterprise! how full of the most
fearful perils! and yet how entirely profitless to the daring men who personally undertook
and achieved it! Through what a series of the most spirit-chilling hardships had they
to toil!—How often did they cast their eyes to England in vain! and with what delusive
hopes, day after day, did the little famished crew strain their sight to catch the white
sail of comfort and relief! But day after day the sun set, and darkness covered the
earth; but no sail of comfort or relief came. How often in the pangs of hunger, sickness,
solitude, and disconsolation, did they think of London; her shops, her markets
groaning under the weight of plenty; her streets swarming with gilded coaches, bustling
hacks, with crowds of lords, dukes, and commons, with healthy, busy, contented faces
of every description; and, among them, none more healthy, or more contented, than
those of their ungrateful and improvident directors! But now—where are they all?
the little famished colony which landed here, and the many-colored crowd of London—
where are they, my dear S . . . . . ? Gone, where there is no distinction; consigned to
the common earth. Another generation succeeded them; which, just as busy and as
bustling as that which fell before it, has sunk down into the same nothingness. Another,
and yet another billow, has rolled on, each emulating its predecessor in height; towering
for its moment, and curling its foaming honors to the clouds; then roaring, breaking, and
perishing on the same shore.

It is not known, precisely, when the church, the tower of which
remains, was built. A church was erected very soon after its first
settlement, which the Westover MS. says "cost no more than £50."
The following extracts from Smith's History, will throw some
light upon the subject:

And so we returned all well to Iames towne, where this new supply being lodged with
the rest, accidentally fired their quarters, and so the towne, which being but thatched
with reeds, the fire was so fierce as it burnt their pallisado's, (though eight or ten yards
distant,) with their armes, bedding, apparell, and much priuate prouision. Good Master
Hunt, our preacher, lost all his liberary, and all he had but the cloathes on his backe:
yet none neuer heard him repine at his losse. This happned in the winter, in that
extreame frost, 1607.—Smith, book 3, (Richmond edition,) p. 168.

The spring approaching, and the ship departing, Mr. Scrivener and Captaine Smith
divided betwixt them the rebuilding Iames towne; the repairing our pallisadoes; the
cutting downe trees; preparing our fields; planting our corne, and to rebuild our church,
and to recover our store-house. All men thus busie at their severall labors, Master Nelson
arrived with his lost Phœnix.—Book 3, p. 170.


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The Phœnix arrived, says Sparks, in his Life of Smith, in the
spring of 1608. Smith says, under the chapter headed "The
gouernment deuolued to Captaine Samuel Argall 1617:"

In March they set saile, 1617, [from England,] and in May he [Argall] arrived at
Iames towne, where hee was kindly entertained, by Captaine Yearley and his companie,
in a martiall order, whose right-hand file was led by an Indian. In Iames towne he
found but fiue or six houses, the church downe, the pallizado's broken, the bridge in
pieces, the well of fresh water spoiled, the storehouse vsed for the church; the market-place
and streets, and all other spare places planted with tobacco; the saluages as frequent
in their houses as themselues, whereby they become expert in our armes, and had
a great many in their custodie and possession; the colony dispersing all about, planting
tobacco.

From the above, it is evident that previous to 1617, or 10 years
after the first settlement of Jamestown, there were two churches
destroyed. This tower now standing may have belonged to the
second church, and survived its destruction. It could not have
been part of the first, for that "cost no more than £50;" or it
may have been the tower of a third. We can only surmise that
the tower has been standing about 230 years. It is unnecessary
to detail further the early history of Jamestown, as it is delineated
in the general history of Virginia in this volume.

Two actions were fought in this vicinity in the revolution. The
first was June 25th, 1781, and took place at Spencer's ordinary, in
the forks of the roads leading to Jamestown and Williamsburg.
The subjoined account is from Girardin:

Lafayette, attentive to the movements of his adversary, no sooner observed his
retreat from Richmond, than he himself moved onward; displaying, however, the same
salutary circumspection as before, and uniformly keeping his main body at the distance
of about twenty miles from the foe. Cornwallis reached Williamsburg on the 25th of
June. During his halt in that place, hearing that the Americans had some boats and
stores on Chickahominy River, he charged Lieut.-Col. Simcoe with the destruction of
these. The latter, attended by his corps and a party of yagers, easily performed the
task. Lafayette, after passing through Richmond and New Kent Court House in pursuit
of Cornwallis, had taken post on Tyre's plantation, about twenty miles from Williamsburg.
There he was informed, by his exploring parties, of Simcoe's expedition to
the Chickahominy, and immediately detached Lieut.-Col. Butler, of the Pennsylvania
line, with orders to strike the British partisan on his return. Butler was well known for
his skill and courage. His achievements at Saratoga had placed him by the side of
Morgan, and he had uniformly and gloriously maintained this high ground. The confidence
of Lafayette could not be better placed. On the present occasion, where only a
partial engagement was sought, the detachment confided to him consisted, besides his
continentals, of the rifle-corps under the Majors Call and Willis, and about one hundred
and twenty horsemen. This last force was commanded by Major M'Pherson, of
Pennsylvania. He mounted some infantry behind his dragoons, and, seeking Simcoe
with unusual ardor and speed, overtook him near Spencer's plantation, six or seven miles
above Williamsburg. A sharp conflict immediately ensued, in which the British yagers
and the American cavalry were alternately repulsed. The arrival of the riflemen,
headed by Call and Willis, gave to the action additional fierceness; but the superiority
of the hostile cavalry, compelled Butler's van to fall back upon the body of continentals
stationed in the rear. Here the contest ended; Simcoe resuming his retreat, and Butler
not choosing to pursue him because he was informed that Cornwallis, upon hearing the first
fire, had ordered his main body to the support of the returning detachment. The official
accounts of the two generals widely differ as to the loss sustained by each party in this
action. Lafayette states the enemy's loss at sixty killed and one hundred wounded.
Cornwallis says that three officers and thirty privates only were killed and wounded.
Among the killed, a Lieutenant Jones seems to have excited peculiar regret. The loss
of the Americans in killed and wounded has not been recorded; but if we credit the


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statement of the British commander, three of their officers, with twenty-eight privates,
were taken prisoners.

When Cornwallis first arrived in this vicinity, he prepared to
cross over the James, at Jamestown, and march to Portsmouth.
After halting nine days at Williamsburg, his lordship advanced, on
the 4th of July, 1781, to Jamestown Island. The 5th and 6th were
employed in transporting his baggage, &c., while the main army
still continued in their encampment. Lafayette having received
false information that only a covering party remained on this side
of the river with Cornwallis, determined to make an attack, the
success of which was deemed infallible. The events are thus
detailed by Girardin:

The British commander received information of Lafayette's approach about noon on
the 6th, and took every measure in his power to confirm the belief that his rear-guard
only now remained. He drew up the major part of his army in compact order on the
main land, deployed a few troops on the island so as to magnify their apparent numbers,
drew in his light parties, and directed his piquets to suffer themselves to be insulted and
driven in. By this coincidence of circumstances calculated to delude, an error was perpetuated
which exposed the American army in Virginia to the most imminent peril of
utter annihilation.

About three in the afternoon, Lafayette's army began to move from Greenspring.
This late hour was judiciously and happily fixed upon. If only a strong hostile party
should be found at Jamestown, the remaining part of the day would suffice for its
destruction; if, on the contrary, the main body of Cornwallis's troops should be encountered,
the intervening shades of the approaching night would shield the Americans from
ruin. In their advance to the enemy, not more than one mile and a half distant, Lafayette's
troops had to pass over a causeway, extending from the house at Greenspring to
the Williamsburg road, through a tract of low and sunken ground impracticable to either
infantry or cavalry. The time consumed in the passage of this defile retarded the
approach of the Americans to the British till near sunset. The rifle corps under Call and
Willis, and a patrol of dragoons, formed the front of the assailants. These were followed
by the cavalry of Armand and Mercer's troop, headed by Major M'Pherson.
The continental infantry, under Wayne, supported the whole. Steuben was left at
Greenspring with the militia, forming a reserve obviously too remote from the acting
corps for any efficient purpose. When the advancing column reached the road, parties
of riflemen were thrown on its flanks, while the cavalry continued to move in front.
The action was soon commenced by a desultory fire of the enemy's yagers. M'Pherson
and Mercer being then ordered to take the command of the rifle corps, rapidly led them
on to the attack, and drove in the hostile piquets, with much confusion and some loss
on the side of the British. This advantage was keenly pursued by the American riflemen,
who, taking post in a ditch covered by a rail fence, recommenced their fire with
considerable effect. Two battalions of continental infantry, led on by Majors Galvan and
Willis, supported by two pieces of artillery under the direction of Captain Savage, now
joined the riflemen, and assisted them in successfully maintaining for some time a most
arduous conflict against the enemy, who now advanced in a body headed by Lieut.-Col.
Yorke on the right, and Lieut.-Col. Dundas on the left. The superiority of the foe,
however, was too great to be long resisted: the riflemen first gave way, then the cavalry,
and finally the light infantry. They all fell back upon Wayne, as did also Capt. Savage
with his two field-pieces. The brave leader of the Pennsylvania line had drawn up his
men in compact order, under cover of an adjacent wood. He repeatedly directed them
to charge the enemy with fixed bayonets, but local circumstances prevented the execution
of this order, and allowed only a close and murderous fire. Lafayette, who by this
time had discovered his mistake, and became convinced that he had to contend with the
main body of the British army, observing that Wayne was nearly outflanked on both
sides, ordered him to retreat to the second line of continentals, drawn up about half a
mile in his rear. The darkness of the night favored this retreat. It was, however,
found necessary to abandon the two field-pieces; after which the morass in front of
Greenspring was recrossed, and the acting corps, together with the reserve, proceeded
to a more remo'e and safer encampment. Whether from his apprehension of some ambuscade,
or from what was with him a more powerful consideration than fear, a desire


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of quickly transmitting to Sir Henry Clinton the required assistance, Cornwallis attempted
no pursuit, but in the course of the night crossed over into Jamestown Island, and soon
afterwards proceeded to Portsmouth.

In this affair, one hundred and eighteen of the continental troops, among whom were
ten officers, were killed, wounded, or taken. The British state their loss, both in killed
and wounded, at five officers and seventy privates.

Williamsburg, the seat of justice for the county, is 58 miles
from Richmond, 12 from Yorktown, 68 from Norfolk, and 7 from
Jamestown. It is finely situated, on a level plain, between the
York and James, immediately on the division line between James
City and York counties. It is laid out in parallel streets, with a
square in the centre of several acres, containing the county buildings.
Through it runs the principal street, which is very wide,
and about a mile in length; at one end of which is the college,
and at the other the ruins of the old capitol.

Williamsburg, in its most palmy days, contained only a
population of about 2,000. It has at present 1 Episcopal, 1 Baptist,
and 1 Methodist church, and about 1,600 inhabitants. The
Eastern Lunatic Asylum is located here. It consists of a lofty
and extensive pile of brick buildings, enclosed by a wall, in a
pleasant area of several acres. The number of patients is generally
over one hundred; and the institution is ably conducted,
under the superintendence of Dr. John M. Galt.

There is an air of repose about this village city, so interesting
from its historic associations. It is the oldest incorporated
town in Virginia. This immediate vicinity was first known
as the Middle Plantations, and the town was first settled in 1632,
from the adjoining settlements, principally from Jamestown. In
1698, the seat of government was removed here from that place.
From a work[1] published a short time after, we make the following
extract, principally relative to this place:

The first metropolis, Jamestown, was built in the most convenient place for trade,
and security against the Indians; but often received much damage, being twice burnt
down, after which it never recovered its perfection—consisting at present of nothing but
abundance of brick rubbish and three or four good inhabited houses, though the parish is of
pretty large extent, but less than others. When the state-house and prison were burnt
down, Governor Nicholson removed the residence of the governor, with the meetings of the
general courts and general assemblies, to Middle Plantation, seven miles from Jamestown,
in a healthier and more convenient place, and freer from the annoyance of moschetoes.
Here he laid out the city of Williamsburg—in the form of a cipher, made of
W and M—on a ridge at the head springs of two great creeks, one running into
James, and the other into York River, which are each navigable for sloops within a
mile of the town; at the head of which creek are good landings, and lots laid out, and
dwelling-houses and warehouses built; so that this town is most conveniently situated,
in the middle of the lower part of Virginia, commanding two noble rivers, not above
four miles from either, and is much more commodious and healthful than if built upon
a river.

Public buildings here of note are, the college, the capitol, the governor's house, and
the church.

The college front, which looks due east, is double, and is 136 feet long. It is a
lofty pile of brick buildings, adorned with a cupola. At the north end runs back a large
wing, which is a handsome hall, answerable to which the chapel is to be built; and


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there is a spacious piazza on the west side, from one wing to the other. It is approached
by a good walk, and a grand entrance by steps, with good courts and gardens about it,
with a good house and apartments for the Indian master and his scholars, and outhouses;
and a large pasture enclosed like a park, with about 150 acres adjoining, for
occasional uses.

The building is beautiful and commodious, being first modelled by Sir Christopher
Wren, adapted to the nature of the country by the gentlemen there; and since it was
burnt down it has been rebuilt, nicely contrived, altered, and adorned, by the ingenious
direction of Governor Spotswood; and is not altogether unlike Chelsea Hospital.

This royal foundation was granted and established by charter, by King William
and Queen Mary, and endowed by them with some thousand acres of land, with duties
upon furs and skins, and a penny a pound for all tobacco transported from Virginia and
Maryland to the other plantations; to which have been made several additional benefactions:
as that handsome establishment of Mr. Boyle, for the education of Indians,
with the many contributions of the country, especially a late one of £1000 to buy
negroes for the college use and service.

The society is a corporation, established for a president, six masters, or professors,
with a hundred scholars, more or less.

The salary of the president, Mr. James Blair, has been lately ordered to be reduced
from £150 to £100 per annum.

The salary of the fellows—one of which I have been for several years—is £80 per
annum each; with 20s. entrance, and 20s. a year for pupilage, for each scholar. The
payments are sometimes made in current Spanish money, and sometimes in sterling bills.

When the college shall be completely finished, and scholarships founded, then is the
trust to be transferred from the trustees to the president and masters; but at present it
is managed by a certain number of governors or visitors—one of which is yearly
chosen rector—appointed first by the trustees, elected out of the principal and worthiest
inhabitants. These appoint a person to whom they grant several privileges and allowances,
to board and lodge the masters and scholars at an extraordinary cheap rate.
This office is at present performed in the neatest and most regular and plentiful manner
by Mrs. Mary Stith, a gentlewoman of great worth and discretion, in good favor with
the gentry, and great esteem and respect with the common people.

The Indians who are upon Mr. Boyle's foundation have now a handsome apartment
for themselves and their master, built near the college. The young Indians, procured
from the tributary or foreign nations with much difficulty, were formerly boarded or
lodged in the town, where abundance of them used to die, either through sickness,
change of provision, and way of life; or, as some will have it, often for want of proper
necessaries, and due care taken with them. Those of them that have escaped well, and
been taught to read and write, have, for the most part, returned to their home, some
with, and some without baptism, where they follow their own savage customs and heathenish
rites. A few of them have lived as servants among the English, or loitered and
idled away their time in laziness and mischief. But it is a great pity that more care is
not taken of them after they are dismissed from school. They have admirable capacities
when their humors and tempers are perfectly understood.

Fronting the college, at near its whole breadth, is extended a whole street, mathematically
straight—for the first design of the town's form is changed to a much better—
just three quarters of a mile in length, at the other end of which stands the Capitol, a
noble, beautiful, and commodious pile, as any of its kind, built at the cost of the late
queen, and by direction of the governor. In this is the secretary's office, with all the
courts of law and justice, held in the same form, and near the same manner, as in England,
except the ecclesiastical courts. Here the governor and twelve counsellors sit as
judges in the general courts, in April and October, whither trials and causes are removed
from courts held at the court-houses, monthly, in every county, by a bench of
justices and a county clerk. Here are also held the Oyer and Terminer-courts, one in
summer and the other in winter, added by the charity of the late queen, for the prevention
of prisoners lying in jail above a quarter of a year before their trial. Here are also
held court martials, by judges appointed on purpose for the trial of pirates; likewise
courts of admiralty, for the trial of ships for illegal trade. The building is in the form
of an H nearly; the secretary's office and the general court taking up one side below
stairs; the middle being a handsome portico, leading to the clerk of the assembly's
office, and the House of Burgesses on the other side; which last is not unlike the House
of Commons. In each wing is a good staircase, one leading to the council-chamber,
where the governor and council sit in very great state, in imitation of the king and council,


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or the lord chancellor and House of Lords. Over the portico is a large room where
conferences are held, and prayers are read by the chaplain to the general assembly;
which office I have had the honor, for some years, to perform. At one end of this is a
lobby, and near it is the clerk of the council's office; and at the other end are several
chambers for the committees of claims, privileges, and elections; and over all these are
several good offices for the receiver-general, for the auditor, and treasurer, &c.; and
upon the middle is raised a lofty cupola with a large clock.

The whole is surrounded with a neat area, encompassed with a good wall, and near
it is a strong sweet prison for criminals; and on the other side of the open court another
for debtors, when any are removed from the other prisons in each county; but such
prisoners are very rare, the creditors being there generally very merciful, and the laws
so favorable for debtors that some esteem them too indulgent.

The cause of my being so particular in describing the capitol, is because it is the best
and most commodious pile of its kind that I have seen or heard of.

Because the state-house, James Town, and the college have been burnt down, therefore
is prohibited in the capitol, the use of fire, candles, and tobacco.

Parallel to the main street mentioned is a street on each side of it, but neither quite
so long nor so broad; and at proper distances are small cross-streets, for the convenience
of communication. Near the middle stands the church, which is a large strong piece
of brick-work in the form of a cross, nicely regular and convenient, and adorned as the
best churches in London. This from the parish is called Bruton church, where I had
the favor of being lecturer. Near this is the large octagon tower, which is the magazine,
or repository of arms and ammunition, standing far from any house except James
Town court-house; for the town is half in James Town county, and half in York
county. Not far from hence is a large area for a market-place; near which is a playhouse
and good bowling-green.

From the church runs a street northward, called Palace-street; at the other end of
which stands the palace, or governor's house, a magnificent structure, built at the public
expense, finished and beautified with gates, fine gardens, offices, walks, a fine canal,
orchards, &c., with a great number of the best arms, nicely posited, by the ingenious
contrivance of the most accomplished Colonel Spotswood. This likewise has the ornamental
addition of a good cupola or lantern, illuminating most of the town upon birth-nights,
and other nights of occasional rejoicings. At the capitol, at public times, may
be seen a great number of handsom, well-dressed, compleat gentlemen; and at the governor's
house, upon birth-nights, and at balls and assemblies, I have seen as fine an appearance,
as good diversion, and as splendid entertainments in Governor Spotswood's
time, as I have seen anywhere else.

These buildings here described are justly reputed the best in all English America, and
are exceeded by few of their kind in England. . . . .

Williamsburg is now incorporated and made a market-town, and governed by a
mayor and alderman; and is well stocked with rich stores of all sorts of goods, and
well furnished with the best provisions and liquors. Here dwell several very good families,
and more reside here at their own houses in public times. They live in the same
neat manner, dress after the same modes, and behave themselves exactly as the gentry
in London; most families of any note having a coach, chariot, berlin, or chaise. The
number of artificers here is daily augmented, as are the convenient ordinaries or inns,
for the accommodation of strangers. The servants here, as in other parts of the county,
are English, Scotch, Irish, or negroes. The town is regularly laid out in lots or square
portions, sufficient each for a house and garden, so that they don't build contiguous,
whereby may be prevented the spreading danger of fire; and this also affords a free
passage for the air, which is very grateful in violent hot weather.

Here, as in other parts, they build with brick, but most commonly with timber lined
with ceiling, and cased with feather-edged plank, painted with white-lead and oil, covered
with shingles of cedar, &c., tarred over at first; with a passage generally
through the middle of the house, for an air-draught in summer. Thus their houses are
lasting; dry and warm in winter, and cool in summer; especially if there be windows
enough to draw the air. Thus they dwell comfortably, genteelly, pleasantly, and plentiful,
in this delightful, healthful, and, I hope, thriving city of Williamsburg.

The foregoing description of Williamsburg, published 120 years
since, in many points resembles it at the present time. From then
until 1779, when the seat of government was removed to Richmond,
the town was the centre of the fashion, wealth, and learning of


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the "Old Dominion;" the influence of which has left its impress
upon the place, and the manners and characteristics of its present
inhabitants. Being then "the residence of the governor—the immediate
representative of the sovereign—the royal state in which
he lived, the polite and brilliant circle which he always had about
him, diffused their influence through the city and the circumjacent
country, and filled Williamsburg with a degree of emulation,
illustration

William and Mary College, Williamsburg.

taste, and elegance, of which we can form no conception by the
appearances of the present day. During the session of the House
of Burgesses, too, these stately modes of life assumed their richest
forms; the town was filled with a concourse of visitors, as well
as citizens, attired in their gayest colors; the streets exhibited a
continual scene of animated and glittering tumult; the houses, of
costly profusion."

Several of the buildings above described are yet standing:
among which is the church and the octagon tower known as the
"old magazine." In the church, a few years since, was to be
seen the gubernatorial pew of Sir Alexander Spotswood, governor
of Virginia from 1710 to 1723. It was raised from the floor, covered
with a canopy, around the interior of which his name was
written in gilt letters.

William and Mary College, now the principal support of the
town, is, with the exception of Harvard University, the oldest literary
institution in the Union. It is distinguished for the very
large proportion of its graduates who have arisen to eminence;
some of whom have held the highest stations in the nation.

"The college library contains somewhat less than four thousand
volumes, of which many are theological. Some of the books were
presented by Robert Dinwiddie, and have his coat of arms affixed,
the crest, an eagle, and the motto, `Ubi libertas, ibi patria.' In


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others was inscribed the name of Major-General Alexander Spotswood.
Some were the gift of the former presidents of the college,
and others of the Assembly of Virginia. Catesby's Natural History
of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, was given (as
appears from a note on the first page, in the hand-writing of
Thomas Jefferson) on condition that it should never go out of the
college. This work was printed London, 1754, with colored
plates, in two volumes folio, in English and French."

The college was founded in 1692, in the reign of William and
Mary, who granted it a donation of 20,000 acres of land.

In 1793, the Assembly ordered that it should be built at Williamsburg.
"The college received a penny a lb. duty on certain
tobaccos exported from Virginia and Maryland, which had been
levied by the statute of the 25th of Charles II. The Assembly
also gave it, by temporary laws, a duty on liquors imported, and
skins and furs exported. From these resources it received upwards
of 3000 pounds, communibus annis. The buildings are of brick,
and sufficiently large for the accommodation of 100 students. By
its charter, dated the 8th of February, 1692, it was placed under
the direction of not less than twenty visitors, and to have a president
and six professors, who were incorporated. It was formerly
allowed a representative in the General Assembly. Under this
charter, a professorship of the Greek and Latin languages, a professorship
of mathematics, one of moral philosophy, and two of
divinity were established. To these were annexed, for a sixth
professorship, a considerable donation, by Mr. Boyle of England,
for the instruction of the Indians and their conversion to Christianity.
This was called the professorship of Brafferton, from an
estate of that name in England purchased with the moneys given.
The admission of the learners of Latin and Greek filled the college
with children. This rendering it disagreeable, and degrading to
young men already prepared for entering on the sciences, they
were discouraged from resorting to it, and thus the school for mathematics
and moral philosophy, which might have been of some
service, became of very little. The revenues, too, were exhausted
in accommodating those who came only to acquire the rudiments
of science. After the revolution, the visitors, having no power to
change those circumstances in the constitution of the college,
which were fixed by the charter, and being, therefore, confined in
the number of professorships, undertook to change the object of
the professorships. They excluded the two schools for divinity,
and that for the Greek and Latin languages, and substituted others.
At present it has nineteen acting visitors, and is under the superintendency
of a president and five professors, embracing the professor
of humanity, who has charge of the classical department.
There is also a law department in this institution;" and in the town
a flourishing male and female boarding-school.

The Rev. James Blair, D. D., was named president of William
and Mary College in the charter, but is said not to have entered


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upon the duties of his office until 1729; he died in 1742, and was
succeeded by the Rev. William Stith, (author of a history of Virginia,)
who died in 1750. The Rev. James Madison, D. D., (Bishop
of Va.,) was president from 1777 to 1812. His successors have
been the Rev. W. H. Wilmer, Dr. J. Augustine Smith, Rev. Dr.
Adam Empie, and Thomas R. Dew, A. M., the present incumbent.
There were, in 1840, in the college 98 students; in the law school
32 students.

In the beautiful square, fronting the college, stands the statue of
Lord Botetourt, one of the colonial governors. It is much mutilated,
though still presenting a specimen of elegant sculpture. He
appears in the court-dress of that day, with a short sword at his
side. It was erected in 1774, at the expense of the colony, and
removed in 1797 from the old capitol to its present situation. Its
pedestal bears the following inscription:—

The Right Honorable Norborne Berkley, Baron de Botetourt, his Majesty's late
Lieutenant: and Governor-General of the Colony and Dominion of Virginia. Right
side.
—Deeply impressed with the warmest sense of gratitude for his Excellency's, the
Right Honorable Lord Botetourt's, prudent and wise administration, and that the remembrance
of those many public and social virtues which so eminently adorned his
illustrious character might be transmitted to posterity, the General Assembly of Virginia,
on the XX. day of July, Ann. Dom., MDCCLXXI. resolved with one united voice to erect
this statue to his Lordship's memory. Let wisdom and justice preside in any country,
the people must and will be happy. Left side.—America, behold your friend, who leaving
his native country declined those additional honors which were there in store for
him, that he might heal your wounds and restore tranquillity and happiness to this extensive
continent. With what zeal and anxiety he pursued these glorious objects, Virginia
thus bears her grateful testimony.

Lord Botetourt was distinguished for love of piety and literature.
His arrival as governor of the colony, in Oct., 1768—as
is shown in the subjoined extract from the Virginia Gazette of that
date—was greeted with public rejoicings becoming the loyal subjects
of his majesty:—

Last Tuesday evening arrived in Hampton Roads, in eight weeks from Portsmouth,
the Rippon man-of-war, of 60 guns, Samuel Thompson, Esq., commander, having on
board his Excellency, the Right Hon. Norborne Baron de Botetourt, his majesty's
Lieut. and Gov.-General of this Colony and Dominion. Next morning his Excellency
landed at Little England, and was saluted with a discharge of the cannon there. After
tarrying a few hours and taking a repast, his Excellency set out about noon for this
city, where he arrived about sunset. His Excellency stopped at the Capitol, and was
received at the gate by his Majesty's Council, the Hon. the Speaker, the Attorney-General,
the Treasurer, and many other gentlemen of distinction, after which, being conducted
to the Council Chamber and having his commissions read, was qualified to
exercise his high office by taking the usual oaths. His Excellency then swore in the
members of his Majesty's Council, after which he proceeded to the Raleigh Tavern,
and supped there with his Majesty's Council. His Excellency retired about ten, and
took up his lodgings at the palace, which had been put in order for his reception. Immediately
upon his arrival the city was illuminated, and all ranks vied with each other
in testifying their gratitude and joy, that a Nobleman of such distinguished merit and
abilities is appointed to preside over and live among them.

In the succeeding paper the following Ode was published:—


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Recitative.

VIRGINIA, see, thy GOVERNOR appears!
The peaceful olive in his brow he wears!
Sound the shrill trumpets, beat the rattling drums;
From Great Britannia's isle his Lordship comes.
Bid Echo from the waving woods arise,
And joyful acclamations reach the skies;
Let the loud organs join their tuneful roar,
And bellowing cannons rend the pebbled shore:
Bid smooth James River catch the cheerful sound,
And roll it to Virginia's utmost bound;
While Rappahannock and York's gliding stream,
Swift shall convey the sweetly pleasing theme
To distant plains, where pond'rous mountains rise,
Whose cloud-capp'd verges meet the bending skies.
The Lordly prize the Atlantic waves resign,
And now, Virginia, now the BLESSING'S thine:
His listening ears will to your trust attend,
And be your Guardian, Governor, and Friend.

Air.

He comes: his Excellency comes,
To cheer Virginian plains!
Fill your brisk bowls, ye loyal sons,
And sing your loftiest strains.
Be this your glory, this your boast,
Lord Botetourt's the favorite toast;
Triumphant wreaths entwine;
Fill full your bumpers swiftly round,
And make your spacious rooms rebound
With music, joy, and wine.

Recitative.

Search every garden, strip the shrubby bowers,
And strew his path with sweet autumnal flowers!
Ye virgins, haste, prepare the fragrant rose,
And with triumphant laurels crown his brows.

Duet.

Enter Virgins with flowers, laurels, &c.

See, we've stript each flowery bed;
Here's laurels for his LORDLY HEAD;
And while Virginia is his care,
May he protect the virtuous fair.

Air.

Long may he live in health and peace,
And ev'ry hour his joys increase.
To this let ev'ry swain and lass
Take the sparkling, flowing glass;
Then join the sprightly dance, and sing,
Health to our Governor, and God save the King.

Virgins.

Health to our Governor.

Bass Solo.

Health to our Governor.

Chorus.

Health to our Governor, and GOD SAVE THE KING!

Facing the public square is the house—shown on the right of
the annexed view—in which, a few years since, resided President
Tyler. On the square stands the Old Magazine, built about
120 years ago, and memorable as being the building from which
Lord Dunmore, in 1774, removed the powder belonging to the


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colony on board the Magdalen man-of-war, which arbitrary act
threw the whole of Virginia into a state of ferment, and occasioned
illustration

The Old Magazine.

the first assembling of an armed force in the colony in opposition
to royal authority.

At the head of a small, but beautiful grassy court, called the
Palace Green, are two small brick structures, the remains of the
Palace of Lord Dunmore, the last of the colonial governors. That
on the right was the office, and the one on the left the guard-house.
The main building occupied the space between them; it was of
brick, 74 feet long, and 68 feet wide. Here Lord Dunmore resided
illustration

Remains of Lord Dunmore's Palace.

in great state, surrounded by the pomp and pageantry of vice-royalty.
At that time the adjacent grounds, comprising 360 acres,
were beautifully laid out, with carriage-roads winding through

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them. Numerous lindens were imported from Scotland and planted;
one or two of which now remain, and are almost unrivalled in
magnificence and beauty. The palace was accidentally destroyed
by fire during its occupancy by some French troops, immediately
after the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown.

illustration

The Old Capitol.

The first building erected in Williamsburg for a capitol was
burnt in the year 1746, and shortly after another was built, which
in its turn was consumed by fire, in April, 1832. Of this structure,
now known as the "OLD CAPITOL," nothing remains but a few scattered
bricks. Fortunately, we are enabled to present an engraving,
from a drawing preserved by a lady of the place. Within
its walls did the great and patriotic of Virginia's sons deliberate
in the darkest period of the nation's history. There were those resolves
made, and that course of action pursued, which made Virginia
foremost in opposition to the arbitrary measures of Britain.
It was there that Patrick Henry made his début in the House of
Burgesses, when, attired in a coarse apparel, with the air of "an
obscure and an unpolished rustic," he arose and astonished all by
"the rugged might and majesty of his eloquence," teaching "the
proud aristocracy" of that body the superiority of native talent
over the learning of schools and the glitter and assumptions of
high life. It was there, also, that occurred that touching incident
in the life of Washington, who, (says Wirt,) after closing his glorious
career in the French and Indian war, was complimented by the
speaker, Mr. Robinson, for his gallantry; but in such glowing terms,
that when he arose to express his acknowledgments for the honor,
he blushed, and stammered, and trembled, unable to give distinct
utterance to a single syllable; when the speaker, observing his


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trepidation, relieved him by a masterly stroke of address, saying,
with a conciliating smile, "Sit down, Mr. Washington; your modesty
is equal to your valor, and that surpasses the power of any
language that I possess.
"

The "Old Raleigh Tavern" is yet occupied as a public-house;
over the portico of which is the bust of Sir Walter Raleigh. It is
memorable from being the place "where many important committees
of the legislature met, where some of our most distinguished
patriots concerted measures for aiding in the arduous struggle for
liberty, and where it is said Richard Henry Lee and others originated
the plan to establish corresponding committees throughout
many or all of the colonies."

The subjoined description of the characteristics of Virginians
about 120 years since, is from the work of Hugh Jones, previously
quoted. He appears pleased with every body and every thing
around him, while the colonies more remote, instead of looming
up brightly by "the enchantment of distance," are presented to his
imagination in the most sombre and forbidding hues. The description
is a curiosity in its way, and is written in a quaint, hyperbolical
style, quite amusing:

The habits, life, customs, computations, &c., of the Virginians, are much the same
as about London, which they esteem their home; and for the most part, have contemptible
notions of England, and wrong sentiments of Bristol and the other outports,
which they entertain from seeing and hearing the common dealers, sailors, and servants,
that come from these towns, and the country-places in England and Scotland, whose
language and manners are strange to them. For the planters, and even the native
negroes, generally talk good English, without idiom or tone, and can discourse handsomely
on most common subjects. Conversing with persons belonging to trade and
navigation from London, for the most part, they are much civilized, and wear the best
of cloaths, according to their stations; nay, sometimes too good for their circumstances,
being for the generality comely, handsome persons, of good features and fine complexions—if
they take care—of good manners and address. The climate makes them
bright, and of excellent sense, and sharp in trade; an idiot or deformed native being
almost a miracle. Thus they have good natural notions, and will soon learn arts and
sciences; but are generally diverted, by business or inclination, from profound study and
prying into the depth of things; being ripe for management of their affairs before they
have laid so good a foundation for learning, and had such instructions and acquired
such accomplishments, as might be instilled into such naturally good capacities. Nevertheless,
through their quick apprehension, they have a sufficiency of knowledge and
fluency of tongue, though their learning for the most part be but superficial. They are
more inclinable to read men by business and conversation, than to dive into books, and
are, for the most part, only desirous of learning what is absolutely necessary, in the
shortest and best method. . . . . As for education, several are sent to England for it,
though the Virginians, being naturally of good parts, as I have already hinted, neither
require nor admire as much learning as we do in Britain; yet more would be sent over,
were they not afraid of the small-pox, which most commonly proves fatal to them. But
indeed, when they come to England, they are generally put to learn to persons that
know little of their temper, who keep them drudging on what is of least use to them, in
pedantick methods too tedious for their volatile genius. . . . . If New England be called
a receptacle of Dissenters and an Amsterdam of religion, Pennsylvania a nursery of
Quakers, Maryland the retirement of Roman Catholics, North Carolina the refuge of
runaways, and South Carolina the delight of Buccaneers and Pyrates, Virginia may be
justly esteemed the happy retreat of true Britons, and true Churchmen for the most
part; neither soaring too high, nor dropping too low, consequently should merit the
greater esteem and encouragement.


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The common planters leading easy lives, don't much admire labor, or any manly exercise,
except horse-racing, nor diversion, except cockfighting, in which some greatly
delight. This easy way of living, and the heat of the summer, makes some very lazy,
who are then said to be climate-struck. The saddle-horses, though not very large, are
hardy, strong, and fleet; and will pace naturally and pleasantly at a prodigious rate.
They are such lovers of riding, that almost every ordinary person keeps a horse: and I
have known some spend the morning in ranging several miles in the woods to find and
catch their horses, only to ride two or three miles to church, to the court-house, or to a
horse-race, where they generally appoint to meet upon business, and are more certain
of finding those that they want to speak or deal with, than at their home.

No people can entertain their friends with better cheer and welcome; and strangers
and travellers are here treated in the most free, plentiful, and hospitable manner, so that
a few inns or ordinaries on the road are sufficient.

The first newspaper printed in British America was in Boston, in
1704, and in 1719 the second was issued, in the same city. In
1725 a newspaper was first printed in New York; from this time
they were gradually extended through the continent.

"In 1671, Sir William Berkeley `thanks God there are no free
schools nor printing, [in Virginia,]—and hopes we shall not have
these hundreds of years to come.' The first printing-press erected
in Virginia, in 1682, was shortly after put down."

The first newspaper published in Virginia was the Virginia Gazette, the first number
of which was issued at Williamsburg, August 6th, 1736. It was then a sheet about 12
inches by six, and was printed and published by W. Parks, at 15s. per annum. In his
introduction, after mentioning that papers had been established elsewhere in the colonies,
as well as in Europe, he says: "From these examples, the encouragement of several
gentlemen, and the prospect I have of success in this ancient and best-settled colony,
Virginia, I am induced to set forth weekly newspapers here; not doubting to meet with
as good encouragement as others, or at least such as may enable me to carry them on."
This same Wm. Parks printed, in 1729, Stith's History of Virginia and the Laws of
Virginia, at this place. His paper was under the influence of the government. Parks
died in 1750, and the paper was discontinued for a time. In Feb, 1751, this paper was
renewed by Wm. Hunter. He died in 1761. It was then enlarged, and published by
Joseph Royle; after whose death it was carried on by Purdie and Dixon, who continued
it until the commencement of the revolution; and Purdie, alone, published it several
years during the revolutionary contest.

Mr. Jefferson in answer to an inquiry observes, "till the beginning of our revolutionary
disputes we had but one press; and that having the whole business of the government,
and no competitor for public favor, nothing disagreeable to the governor could find
its way into it. We procured Rind to come from Maryland to publish a free paper."
Accordingly, in May, 1766, a second paper, entitled also "The Virginia Gazette,"
"published by authority, open to all parties, but influenced by none," was issued at this
place by Wm. Rind. The clause, "published by authority," was omitted at the end of
the first year. Rind dying in August, 1773, the paper was continued by his widow,
Clementina Rind, and at her death by John Pinckney. Another "Virginia Gazette"
was first published at Williamsburg in 1775, and continued weekly, for several years,
by John Clarkson and Augustine Davis.[2]

From these papers we make the subjoined extracts:

Williamsburg, Nov. 12, 1736.—On this day sen'night, being the 5th of November, the
president, masters, and scholars, of William and Mary college went, according to their
annual custom, in a body, to the governor's, to present his honor with two copies of
Latin verses, in obedience to their charter, as a grateful acknowledgment for two valuable
tracts of land given the said college by their late K. William and Q. Mary. Mr.
President delivered the verses to his honor; and two of the young gentlemen spoke
them. It is further observed there were upwards of 60 scholars present; a much greater
number than has been any year before since the foundation of the college.


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Sept. 10, 1736.—This evening will be performed at the Theatre, by the young gentlemen
of the college, The Tragedy of Cato; and on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday
next, will be acted the following comedies, by the gentlemen and ladies of this country,
viz: The Busy Body, The Recruiting Officer, and The Beaux Stratagem.

Williamsburg, Sept. 21, 1739.—An epitaph on Miss M. Thacker, (daughter of Col.
Edwin Thacker, of Middlesex,) who died at Williamsburg, on Wednesday last:

Pensively pay the tribute of a tear,
For one that claims our common grief lies here.
Good-natured, prudent, affable, and mild,
In sense a woman, in deceit a child.
Angels, like us, her virtues shall admire,
And chant her welcome thro' the Heavenly choir.

Sept. 21, 1739.—Edward Morris, Breeches-Maker and Glover, from London, is set
up in his business, near the college, in Williamsburg, where he makes and sells the best
buckskin breeches, either of the common tanned color, black, or other cloth colors, after
the English manner. Also buckskin gloves with high tops. Any persons that have occasion
to make use of him, in any of the above particulars, may depend upon kind usage,
and at very reasonable rates.

Williamsburg, March 3, 1768.—Early this morning, died at the palace, after a tedious
illness, which he bore with the greatest patience and fortitude, the Hon. Francis
Fauquier,
Esq., Lieut. Gov. and commander-in-chief of the colony, over which he has
presided near ten years, much to his own honor, and the ease and satisfaction of the inhabitants.
He was a gentleman of the most amiable disposition, generous, just, and
mild, and possessed, in an eminent degree, of all the social virtues. He was a Fellow
of the Royal Society, and died in his 65th year.[3]

May 26, 1768.—For the benefit of Mrs. Parker, by permission of the worshipful the
Mayor of Williamsburg,
at the Old Theatre, near the Capitol, by the Virginia Company
of Comedians,
on Friday, the 3d of June, will be presented the Beggar's Opera,
and the Anatomist, or Sham Doctor.

Williamsburg, April 13, 1768.—A hog was brought to town this week, from Sussex,
as a show, raised by Mr. Henry Tyler there, who, though only four years old, is near three
feet and a half high, about nine and a half long, and, it is supposed, weighs near twelve
hundred pounds. He much exceeds any animal of the kind ever raised on this continent,
and, indeed, we do not remember to have heard of any so large in England.

Oct. 5, 1768.—Yesterday, Peyton Randolph, Esq., our worthy representative, gave
a genteel dinner at the Raleigh Tavern, to the electors of this city, after which many
loyal and patriotic toasts were drank, and the afternoon spent with cheerfulness and decorum.

From the Virginia Gazette of 1776 are extracted the following marriage notices,
which, according to the custom of the time, are accompanied with a few poetic lines:

Edmund Randolph, Esq., Attorney-General of Virginia, to Miss Betsey Nicholas, a
young lady whose amiable sweetness of disposition, joined with the finest intellectual
accomplishments, cannot fail of rendering the worthy man of her choice completely
happy.

Fain would the aspiring muse attempt to sing
The virtues of this amiable pair;
But how shall I attune the trembling string,
Or sound a note which can such worth declare?
Exalted theme! too high for common lays!
Could my weak verse with beauty be inspired,
In numbers smooth I'd chant my Betsey's praise,
And tell how much her Randolph is admired.
To light the hymeneal torch since they've resolved,
Kind Heaven I trust will make them truly blest;
And when the Gordian knot shall be dissolved,
Translate them to eternal peace and rest.

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Mr. William Derricoat, of Hanover, to Miss Suckey Tomkies, of Gloucester,
daughter of Col. Francis Tomkies.

Her's the mild lustre of the blooming morn,
And his the radiance of the rising day.
Long may they live, and mutually possess,
A steady love and genuine happiness.

On Sunday last, Mr. Beverly Dixon to Miss Polly Saunders, a very agreeable
young lady.

Hymen, thy brightest torch prepare,
Gild with light the nuptial bower,
With garlands crown this lovely pair,
On them thy choicest blessings shower
Cupids lightly sport and play,
Hymen crowns the happy day;
Sprightly graces too descend,
And the beauteous bride attend.
Here no sordid interest binds,
But purest innocence and love
Combined unite their spotless minds,
And seal their vows above.

Captain Samuel Denny, of the artillery, to Miss Fallen, of Northumberland.

May peace and love the sacred band unite,
And equal joy, yield equal sweet content.

James Madison, D. D., Bishop of the Episcopal Church in Virginia, and President
of William and Mary College, was born near Port Republic, in Rockingham county, in
1749. His father was the district clerk of West Augusta. He graduated with the
highest honors at William and Mary, then studied law with the celebrated George
Wythe, and after being licensed to practise, turned his attention to theology, and was
admitted to holy orders. He was chosen professor of mathematics, in William and
Mary, in 1773. In 1777, at the early age of 28, he was elected president, and soon
after visited England. "In 1788, as Bishop elect of Virginia, he went again to England
for Episcopal ordination, and was consecrated at Lambeth, Sept. 19, 1790. On his
return, he united the performance of his duties of bishop with those of president and
professor. Until the close of his life, such were his literary and scientific pursuits, that
he was occupied in lectures from four to six hours every day. After a severe illness, he
died, March 6, 1812, in the 63d year of his age. His published works are, a Thanksgiving
Sermon, 1781; a letter to J. Morse, 1795; an address to the Episcopal Church,
1799; and an able and very eloquent discourse on the death of Washington. The
reputation of Bishop Madison is that of a refined gentleman, an accomplished scholar,
and an enlightened and liberal Christian philanthropist."

"Peyton Randolph, first president of the American Congress, was a native of Virginia,
and one of the most distinguished lawyers and patriots of the state. He was, as
early as 1756, appointed king's attorney of the colony, and held the office for many
years. In 1766, he was elected speaker of the House of Burgesses, and in 1773, a
member of the committee of correspondence. The following year, he was appointed a
delegate to the Congress which assembled at Philadelphia, and was elected its president;
and also presided in the Congress of 1775, till obliged to return to Virginia, when Hancock
was chosen his successor. He soon resumed his seat in Congress, but died suddenly
of an apoplectic fit on the 22d of October, 1775, aged 52 years."

In speaking of his death, Girardin observes: "That illustrious citizen, distinguished
at first by the eminence of his forensic station, and afterwards by the ability, zeal, integrity,
and dignity, which he displayed in the higher offices of public life, had several
times been elected speaker of the House of Burgesses. On the 20th of March, he was
unanimously appointed president of the first convention; and on the 11th of August
following, first nominated one of the delegates for Virginia to the general Congress. A
new and well-merited honor awaited him there; without one dissentient voice, he was
called to preside over that great and venerable body. . . . The remains of this worthy
patriot were afterwards brought from Philadelphia to Williamsburg by Edmund Randolph,
his nephew, and in November, 1776, deposited in the family vault in the college
chapel, with suitable funeral ceremonies. A short time before his departure for the
general Continental Congress, the convention, observing with great concern that he
was very much indisposed, recommended him to retire for the present from the fatigues
of public duty, tendering to him at the same time their unfeigned thanks for his unremitted


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attention to the important interests of his country, and his unwearied application
to, and able, faithful, and impartial discharge of the duties of his office; and assuring
him that he had the warmest wishes of the convention for a speedy return to health,
and an uninterrupted enjoyment of every felicity."

 
[1]

"The Present State of Virginia, by Hugh Jones, A. M., chaplain to the honorable Assembly, and
lately minister of Jamestown, &c., in Virginia." This work is a small 12mo. of about 150 pages. It is
very scarce. The only copies we have seen are in the libraries of Gov. Tazewell, and Peter Force, Esq.,
of Washington city.

[2]

For most of the facts above stated we are indebted to Thomas's History of Printing.

[3]

A paper of a later date says he was buried in the north aisle of the church.